阅读说明：本技术 用于快速汗液蒸发的化妆品组合物 (Cosmetic composition for rapid sweat evaporation ) 是由 亚内尔·德莫拉 朱迪思·莫兰 弗兰克·施万克 奥斯瓦多·何塞·法比安·克鲁兹塞万茨 于 2018-04-05 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明属于化妆品领域并且涉及具有至少4.0的介电常数的油在化妆品组合物中的用途,用以使水和/汗液从施涂所述化妆品组合物的皮肤上快速蒸发。(The present invention is in the field of cosmetics and relates to the use of an oil having a dielectric constant of at least 4.0 in a cosmetic composition to allow rapid evaporation of water and/or perspiration from the skin to which said cosmetic composition is applied.)

1. Use of an oil a) having a dielectric constant of at least 4.0 in a cosmetic composition:

i. increasing the rate of evaporation of water and/or perspiration on the skin after the composition is applied to the human skin;

reducing the appearance of sweat on human skin; and/or

Reducing the appearance of sweat stains on clothing worn on the skin after the cosmetic composition is applied to the skin.

2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the dielectric constant of the oil a) is at least 4.5, more preferably at least 5.0, and most preferably at least 5.2.

3. Use according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the dielectric constant of the oil a) is less than 8.0, more preferably less than 7.0, and most preferably less than 6.1.

4. Use according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oil a) comprises at least one ester group in its molecular structure.

5. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oil a) is not an organic UV filter.

6. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oil a) is selected from the group consisting of: isodecyl malate, C12-15 alkyl lactate, lauryl lactate, dibutyl adipate, diisopropyl adipate, di (ethylhexyl) adipate, and diisopropyl sebacate.

7. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oil a) is selected from the group consisting of: isodecyl malate, C12-15 alkyl lactate, lauryl lactate, and diisopropyl adipate.

8. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oil a) is diisopropyl adipate.

9. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total amount of the oil a) in the cosmetic composition is in the range from 1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight and most preferably from 3% to 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

10. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic composition comprises at least one silicone oil in a total amount ranging from 0.05% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight and still more preferably from 0.2% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic composition comprises all silicone-free oils having a dielectric constant at 25 ℃ of less than 4.0 and which are not organic UV filters, in a total amount of less than 1.5% by weight, more preferably less than 0.8% by weight, more preferably less than 0.5% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight and most preferably 0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

12. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic composition comprises C12-15 alkyl benzoate, mineral oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride and/or ethylhexyl palmitate in a total amount of less than 0.2% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and most preferably 0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

13. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic composition comprises cetyl alcohol and/or stearyl alcohol.

14. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic composition comprises at least one organic UV filter, preferably selected from the group consisting of: camphorbenzalkonium methosulfate, homosalate, benzophenone-3, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, p-xylylene dicamphor sulfonic acid, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, benzylidene camphorsulfonic acid, octocrylene, polyacrylamide methyl benzylidene camphor, PEG-PABA, p-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester, ethylhexyl triazone, cresoltrazol trisiloxane, diethylhexylbutamido-triazone, 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor, ethylhexyl salicylate, dimethylPABA ethylhexyl, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, methylenebis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, disodium phenyldibenzoimidazole tetrasulfonate, bis (ethylhexyloxyphenol) methoxyphenyl triazine, polysiloxane-15, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate and tris (biphenyl) triazine.

15. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total amount of organic UV filter is in the range of 1 to 35 wt. -%, more preferably of 8 to 30 wt. -%, and most preferably of 10 to 28 wt. -%, based on the total weight of the composition.

16. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic composition comprises at least one oily phase and at least one aqueous phase, so that it is preferred if at least one oily phase is dispersed in an aqueous phase.

17. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total amount of water in the composition is in the range of from 65 to 95 wt. -%, more preferably from 75 to 93 wt. -%, and most preferably from 80 to 90 wt. -%, based on the total weight of the composition.

18. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic composition is an oil-in-water emulsion and comprises at least one emulsifier having an HLB value of from 8 to 18, more preferably from 10 to 15.

19. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic composition comprises at least carbomer and the total amount of carbomer is in the range from 0.05% to 0.6% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 0.3% by weight and more preferably from 0.15% to 0.25% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

20. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 17, characterized in that the cosmetic composition comprises at least one acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer and the total amount of emulsifiers is less than 2% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, more preferably less than 0.5% by weight, more preferably less than 0.2% by weight and most preferably 0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

21. Use according to claim 20, characterized in that the acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer is in the range of 0.05 to 2 wt. -%, more preferably in the range of 0.1 to 1 wt. -%, and most preferably in the range of 0.2 to 0.7 wt. -%, based on the total weight of the composition.

22. Use according to claim 20 or 21, characterized in that the acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer is defined by the fact that: if the polymers are dissolved in water in a total amount of 0.2% by weight and the pH of the mixture is adjusted to 7.5, the resulting mixture has a viscosity in the range of 6500mPa · s to 8000mPa · s, measured at an ambient temperature of 20 ℃ and a sample temperature of 20 ℃ using a Brookfield RV viscometer, spindle RV 4, without ramping at 20 rpm.

23. Use according to claim 20 or 22, characterized in that the weight ratio of the oil a) to the total amount by weight of the acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer is in the range of 1:1 to 100:1, more preferably 4:1 to 40:1, and most preferably 7:1 to 13: 1.

24. A method of increasing the rate of evaporation of water and/or perspiration on skin, characterized in that a cosmetic composition comprising an oil a) having a dielectric constant of at least 4.0 is applied to the skin before the skin becomes wet and/or before perspiration begins.

Technical Field

The present invention is in the field of cosmetics and relates to the use of polar oils in cosmetic compositions to allow the rapid evaporation of water and/or perspiration from the skin to which said cosmetic compositions are applied.

Background

The beautiful and charming appearance is a desire of many people. A typical sign of this appearance is that the skin is healthy, smooth. Therefore, many people are using cosmetic products such as lotions, sun screens or deodorant compositions every day in order to care for the skin.

Especially in warm and humid weather conditions, a person must control body temperature by producing sweat. Although this is a normal and indispensable process for maintaining health, in most cultures the appearance of visible sweat is not aesthetically pleasing. This is mainly due to the fact that bacteria present on the skin degrade the sweat components, resulting in the appearance of unpleasant odours. Thus, once perspiration is visible on the skin, one would think that the person has an unpleasant odor, which may lead to social isolation.

Typically, most sweat is released/produced in the axillary area of the body. However, sweat may also be present in other areas as sweat glands are distributed throughout the body. Therefore, it is important for those who are prone to sweat to avoid visible perspiration on the skin.

One way to reduce the appearance of perspiration on the skin is to apply cosmetic compositions which prove to have an antiperspirant effect by blocking the sweat glands. Typically, such effects are achieved by the use of aluminum salts in cosmetic compositions. However, in some global areas, consumers prefer to use cosmetics that do not contain aluminum salts. Furthermore, by applying the antiperspirant product throughout the body, the temperature regulation of the human body may be affected. This effect may not be ideal for most people.

Another method of reducing the appearance of visible perspiration on the human body is to apply a cosmetic composition containing a water-absorbing ingredient. Such ingredients may be polysaccharides such as starch derivatives, for example, sodium hydroxypropyl starch phosphate. However, such compositions often have the disadvantage of having a white residue on the skin, which is unpleasant for the consumer.

For people with dry skin, once a day application of lotion is an important procedure to increase the elasticity and softness of the skin. However, the use of such products often entails certain disadvantages. For example, for those who are prone to perspiration, the moisture in perspiration can remain on the skin for a long time due to the lotion, which is problematic. As mentioned before, this fact is annoying to the consumer for aesthetic reasons.

It would therefore be desirable to provide a body lotion or sunscreen product that does not suffer from the above-mentioned disadvantages. In particular, it is desirable that after a lotion or sunscreen is applied to the skin, water and/or perspiration can evaporate quickly from the skin. It is therefore desirable to avoid the use of antiperspirant actives, particularly to avoid the use of aluminium salts. Furthermore, it is desirable that the ingredients contained in the cosmetic composition do not form white residues due to absorption of moisture, such as some of the polysaccharides described above.

Document US 6319491B 1 discloses a sweat control lotion. However, this document does not teach one skilled in the art to use the present invention, as it does not disclose a method of increasing the sweat evaporation rate. Instead, it is directed to avoiding sweating.

Disclosure of Invention

Surprisingly, the above object is solved by the present invention.

The present invention provides the use of an oil a) having a dielectric constant of at least 4.0 in a cosmetic composition to increase the evaporation rate of water and/or perspiration in the skin after application of said composition to human skin.

The term "post-application" refers herein to a period of 12 hours, preferably 6 hours, from the start of application of the cosmetic composition.

Another object of the invention is the use of an oil a) having a dielectric constant of at least 4.0 in a cosmetic composition to reduce the appearance of perspiration on human skin.

A further object of the present invention is the use of an oil a) having a dielectric constant of at least 4.0 in a cosmetic composition to reduce the appearance of sweat stains on garments worn on the skin after application of the cosmetic composition to the skin.

According to the invention, sweat stains are understood as the wet appearance caused by sweat.

It is another object of the present invention to provide a method of increasing the rate of evaporation of water and/or perspiration on the skin, characterized in that a cosmetic composition comprising an oil a) having a dielectric constant of at least 4.0 is applied to the skin before the skin becomes wet and/or before perspiration begins.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention allows the rapid evaporation of water and/or perspiration from the skin pre-conditioned with said cosmetic composition. Accordingly, another aspect of the present invention provides a cosmetic composition as disclosed herein.

According to the invention, oil is generally understood to be a water-immiscible organic substance which is liquid at 20 ℃ and 1013 hPa.

In the following description, the terms "according to the invention", "preferred according to the invention" and the like always relate to the use according to the invention, to the method according to the invention and to the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

All weight percentages (wt%) given below relate to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, unless otherwise indicated. If ratios of certain components are disclosed in the following description, these ratios refer to weight ratios of the components unless otherwise indicated.

All tests and measurements were performed under "normal conditions" unless otherwise indicated. The term "conventional conditions" means 20 ℃, 1013hPa and a relative humidity of 50%.

According to the invention, all values given for the dielectric constant refer to a temperature of 25 ℃ and a pressure of 1013 hPa.

According to the present invention, the dielectric constant of the oil may be measured using, for example, a dielectric constant meter such as BI-870 dielectric constant meter manufactured by Fa.

The term "skin" refers only to human skin.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is preferred if the oil a) is characterized by a dielectric constant of at least 4.5, more preferably at least 5.0, and most preferably at least 5.2.

Furthermore, it is preferred if the oil a) is characterized by a dielectric constant of less than 8.0, more preferably less than 7.0, and most preferably less than 6.1.

After limiting the upper and lower limits of the dielectric constant of the oil a), it is also advantageous if the oil a) is selected from the group of oils having a dielectric constant of 4.5 to 8.0, preferably 5.0 to 7.0, and more preferably 5.2 to 6.1.

Furthermore, it is preferred if the oil a) having the dielectric constant specified according to the invention comprises at least one ester group in its molecular structure.

Table 1 lists various oils and their corresponding dielectric constants at 25 ℃.

Table 1:

INCI	dielectric constant
		Isodecyl malate	6.0
Lactic acid lauryl ester	5.6
		Lactic acid C12-15 alkyl ester	5.4
Diisopropyl adipate	5.4
		Sebacic acid diisopropyl ester	4.7
' Jie ' and ' erAcid di (ethylhexyl) ester	4.2
		Oleic acid butyl ester	4.0
Caprylic/capric triglyceride	3.8
		C12-15 alkyl benzoates	3.8
Myristic acid isopropyl ester	3.2
		Ethyl hexyl palmitate	3.1
Ethyl hexyl stearate	3.1
		Isocetyl stearate	3.0
Octyl dodecyl stearate	2.8
		Mineral oil	2.1

Furthermore, it is preferred if the oil a) having the dielectric constant specified according to the invention is preferably not an organic UV filter.

According to the invention, organic UV filters are those known from the list of UV filters permitted to be used in cosmetics in annex VI of the regulation (EC)1223/2009 of the european parliament and council (including all revisions and corrections up to 11/1 of 2017). Under (EC) No 1223/2009 regulations of the european parliament and council, amendments and corrections are accessible via the following web sites: http:// eur-lex.

According to the invention, it is preferred if the oil a) is selected from isodecyl malate, C12-15 alkyl lactate, lauryl lactate, dibutyl adipate, diisopropyl adipate, di (ethylhexyl) adipate and diisopropyl sebacate. It is even more preferred if the oil a) is selected from isodecyl malate, C12-15 alkyl lactate, lauryl lactate, diisopropyl adipate. It is most preferred if the oil a) is diisopropyl adipate.

Furthermore, it is preferred if the total amount of the oil a) as specified above in the cosmetic is in the range of from 1 to 20 wt. -%, more preferably from 2 to 10 wt. -%, and most preferably from 3 to 7 wt. -%, based on the total weight of the composition.

It is more preferred if the total amount of said oil a) selected from the group of isodecyl malate, C12-15 alkyl lactate, lauryl lactate, dibutyl adipate, diisopropyl adipate, di (ethylhexyl) adipate and diisopropyl sebacate is in the range of from 1 to 20 wt. -%, more preferably from 2 to 10 wt. -%, and most preferably from 3 to 7 wt. -%, based on the total weight of the composition.

It is even more preferred if the total amount of said oil a) selected from the group of isodecyl malate, C12-15 alkyl lactate, lauryl lactate and diisopropyl sebacate is in the range of from 1 to 20 wt. -%, more preferably from 2 to 10 wt. -%, and most preferably from 3 to 7 wt. -%, based on the total weight of the composition.

According to the invention it is most preferred if diisopropyl adipate is selected as the oil a) and the total amount of diisopropyl adipate is in the range of from 1 to 20 wt. -%, more preferably from 2 to 10 wt. -%, and most preferably from 3 to 7 wt. -%, based on the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, it is preferred according to the present invention if the cosmetic composition comprises at least one silicone oil in a total amount of from 0.05 to 2 wt. -%, more preferably from 0.1 to 2 wt. -%, and most preferably from 0.2 to 0.5 wt. -%, based on the total weight of the composition. According to the invention, it is further preferred if the silicone oil contained in the cosmetic composition of the invention is a non-cyclic polydimethylsiloxane.

It is further preferred according to the present invention if the cosmetic composition comprises all silicone-free oils having a dielectric constant at 25 ℃ of less than 4.0 and not being organic UV filters in a total amount of less than 1.5 wt. -%, more preferably less than 0.8 wt. -%, more preferably less than 0.5 wt. -%, more preferably less than 0.1 wt. -%, and most preferably 0 wt. -%, based on the total weight of the composition.

It is further particularly preferred if the cosmetic composition comprises C12-15 alkyl benzoate, mineral oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride and/or ethylhexyl palmitate in a total amount of less than 0.2 wt%, more preferably less than 0.1%, and most preferably 0 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

In some embodiments of the invention it is further preferred if the cosmetic composition comprises the skin conditioning agent butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate. It is further preferred if the composition comprises butanediol dicaprylate/dicaprate in a total amount of 0.2 to 1.5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.

It is further preferred according to the present invention if the cosmetic composition comprises a total amount of shea butter (shea butter) of from 0.1 to 1.5 wt. -%, based on the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, it was surprisingly noted that the addition of cetyl alcohol and/or stearyl alcohol reduced the tackiness of the cosmetic composition during application. The addition of behenyl alcohol did not reduce the tack during application. It is therefore further preferred if the cosmetic composition comprises cetyl alcohol and/or stearyl alcohol. Mixtures of cetyl and stearyl alcohols are available under the INCI name cetearyl alcohol. It is further preferred if the composition comprises cetyl and/or stearyl alcohol, if the total amount of cetyl and/or stearyl alcohol is in the range of from 0.2 to 4 wt. -%, more preferably of from 1 to 3 wt. -%, based on the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, a preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the composition comprises at least one organic UV filter.

Preferred organic UV filters according to the invention are selected from: camphorbenzalkonium methosulfate, homosalate, benzophenone-3, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, p-xylylene dicamphor sulfonic acid, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, benzylidene camphorsulfonic acid, octocrylene, polyacrylamide methyl benzylidene camphor, PEG-PABA, p-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester, ethylhexyl triazone, cresotriazoletrisiloxane, bis (ethylhexyl) butamidotriazone, 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, methylenebis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, disodium phenylbisbenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, bis (ethylhexyloxyphenol) methoxyphenyl triazine, polysiloxane-15, diethylamino hydroxybenzoylhexyl benzoate and tris (biphenyl) triazine. More preferred organic uv filters are selected from: homosalate, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, olcrine, ethylhexyl triazone, ethylhexyl salicylate, benzophenone-4, bis (ethylhexyloxyphenol) methoxyphenyl triazine, and polysiloxane-15. The most preferred organic uv filters according to the invention are selected from: bis (ethylhexyloxyphenol) methoxyphenyl triazine, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane.

According to the invention, it is preferred if the total amount of organic UV filters contained in the cosmetic composition is in the range of from 1 to 35 wt. -%, more preferably from 8 to 30 wt. -%, and most preferably from 10 to 28 wt. -%, based on the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred aspect of the present invention, the cosmetic composition comprises at least one organic UV-filter selected from the group of bis (ethylhexyloxyphenol) methoxyphenyl triazine, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene and butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, whereby the total amount of organic UV-filters selected from the group of bis (ethylhexyloxyphenol) methoxyphenyl triazine, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene and butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane is in the range of 1 to 35 wt. -%, more preferably of 8 to 30 wt. -%, and more preferably of 10 to 28 wt. -%, based on the total weight of the composition.

In case the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises bis (ethylhexyloxyphenol) methoxyphenyl triazine, it is preferred if the total amount of bis (ethylhexyloxyphenol) methoxyphenyl triazine is in the range of 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 4.8% by weight, and more preferably 1 to 4.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

In the case where the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises homosalate, it is preferred if the total amount of homosalate is in the range of from 1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 8% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.

In the case where the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises ethylhexyl salicylate, it is preferred if the total amount of ethylhexyl salicylate is in the range of from 1% to 12% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 6% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.

In case the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises octocrylene, it is preferred if the total amount of octocrylene is in the range of 0.1 to 10 wt. -%, more preferably of 1 to 9 wt. -%, and more preferably of 2 to 8 wt. -%, based on the weight of the composition.

In case the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, it is preferred if the total amount of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane is in the range of from 0.5 to 10 wt. -%, more preferably of from 1 to 8 wt. -%, and more preferably of from 3 to 5 wt. -%, based on the weight of the composition.

Furthermore, a preferred composition according to the invention is characterized in that the composition does not comprise ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate.

Furthermore, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention preferably contain no inorganic UV filters, in particular no zinc oxide and no titanium dioxide. It is particularly preferred if the total amount of zinc oxide and titanium dioxide in the cosmetic composition of the invention is less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably 0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Generally, in the case of preferred cosmetic compositions, it is characterized in that the total amount of the oil phase of the composition is from 5% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 6% to 35% by weight, and most preferably from 7% to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. According to the invention, the emulsifier does not account for the total amount of oil phase.

Furthermore, it is preferred if the cosmetic composition comprises at least one aqueous phase. Since the emulsifier is not included in the oil phase of the cosmetic composition, it is counted in the total amount of the water phase.

With respect to the cosmetic composition of the present invention, it is preferred if the total amount of water in the composition is in the range of from 65 to 95 wt. -%, more preferably from 75 to 93 wt. -%, and most preferably from 80 to 90 wt. -%, based on the total weight of the composition.

It is further preferred according to the present invention if the composition comprises phenoxyethanol. Where the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises phenoxyethanol, the total amount of phenoxyethanol is preferably in the range of 0.1 to 2% by weight, and more preferably 0.4 to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, a preferred cosmetic composition according to the invention, wherein it is characterized in that it comprises ethylhexyl glycerol, whereby it is further preferred if the total amount of ethylhexyl glycerol is between 0.05% and 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, it is preferred if the composition does not comprise an alkyl paraben, such as methyl paraben and/or butyl paraben.

It is also preferred according to the invention if the cosmetic composition according to the invention does not comprise an antiperspirant active, in particular does not comprise an aluminium salt such as aluminium chlorohydrate.

Furthermore, it is preferred according to the present invention if the cosmetic composition comprises a total amount of 0 wt.%, based on the weight of the composition, of polymer polymerized from a mixture comprising a polyol and a di-or polyisocyanate.

Further preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprise glycerol in a total amount of from 1 to 10 wt. -%, more preferably from 2 to 8 wt. -%, based on the total weight of the composition.

In addition, preferred cosmetic compositions are characterized in that they comprise a total amount of ethanol of less than 0.5% by weight, more preferably less than 0.2% by weight, and most preferably 0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

According to the present invention, the cosmetic composition may preferably comprise at least one compound selected from the group of limonene, linalool, citral, α -isomethylionone and geraniol.

Furthermore, it is further preferable if the pH of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is in the range of 4.5 to 8.

In addition, preferred cosmetic compositions of the present invention are characterized in that they have a viscosity in the range of 3000 to 7000 mPas, wherein the viscosity is measured at an ambient temperature of 20 ℃ and a sample temperature of 20 ℃ using a Brookfield RV viscometer, spindle RV 4, without ramping at 20 rpm.

Furthermore, according to the invention, if the cosmetic composition comprises one or more ingredients selected from: compounds of the group of alpha-lipoic acid, folic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha-glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine, natural and/or synthetic isoflavones, flavonoids, creatine, creatinine, taurine, beta-alanine, tocopheryl acetate, dihydroxyacetone, glycyrrhetinic acid, 8-hexadecene-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid, glyceryl sugars, (2-hydroxyethyl) urea and/or licochalcone a are advantageous.

In case the cosmetic composition comprises at least one oil phase and at least one aqueous phase, it is generally preferred if the at least one oil phase is dispersed in the aqueous phase.

One type of cosmetic composition comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase is known as an oil-in-water emulsion. At least two phases contained in the emulsion are stabilized by an emulsifier, avoiding phase separation.

A first preferred embodiment of the present invention is characterized in that the cosmetic composition is an oil-in-water emulsion. In a first preferred embodiment, it is preferred if the cosmetic composition comprises at least one emulsifier having an HLB value of from 8 to 18, more preferably from 10 to 15. A particularly preferred emulsifier is glyceryl stearate citrate.

In a first preferred embodiment of the present invention, it is also further preferred if the cosmetic composition comprises at least one polymeric rheology modifier, preferably a carbomer. It is preferred if the composition comprises at least one polymeric rheology modifier if the total amount of polymeric rheology modifiers is from 0.05 to 0.6 wt. -%, more preferably from 0.1 to 0.3 wt. -%, and most preferably from 0.15 to 0.25 wt. -%, based on the total weight of the composition. Thus, it is preferred if the cosmetic composition comprises at least carbomer, and the total amount of said carbomer is in the range of from 0.05 to 0.6 wt. -%, more preferably from 0.1 to 0.3 wt. -%, and more preferably from 0.15 to 0.25 wt. -%, based on the total weight of the composition.

Another type of two-phase cosmetic composition is known as an aqueous dispersion. The aqueous dispersion consists of an oil phase dispersed in an external aqueous phase, the stability of the multiphase system being ensured by including in the aqueous phase a gelling agent forming a gel structure in which the droplets of the oil phase are stably suspended. Thus, in contrast to emulsions, aqueous dispersions are stable in the absence of emulsifiers.

A second preferred embodiment of the present invention is therefore characterized in that the composition comprises at least one gel-forming polymer and the total amount of emulsifier is less than 2 wt. -%, more preferably less than 1 wt. -%, more preferably less than 0.5 wt. -%, more preferably less than 0.2 wt. -%, and most preferably 0 wt. -%, based on the total weight of the composition.

A preferred type of gel-forming polymer is the acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer known according to the CTFA statement. It is therefore preferred if the cosmetic composition according to the second preferred embodiment of the present invention comprises at least one acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer.

It is therefore preferred if the cosmetic composition comprises at least one acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer and the total amount of emulsifier is less than 2 wt%, more preferably less than 1 wt%, more preferably less than 0.5 wt%, more preferably less than 0.2 wt%, and most preferably 0 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

In a second embodiment of the invention it is further preferred if the composition comprises at least one acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer as gel former, whereby the total amount of acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer is in the range of 0.05 to 2 wt. -%, more preferably in the range of 0.1 to 1 wt. -%, and most preferably in the range of 0.2 to 0.7 wt. -%, based on the total weight of the composition.

It was surprisingly noted that if the acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer is defined by the fact that: the water and/or sweat evaporation rate is very high if the polymer is dissolved in water in a total amount of 0.2 wt% and the pH of the mixture is adjusted to 7.5, the resulting mixture having a viscosity in the range of 6500 mPa-s to 8000 mPa-s, wherein the viscosity is measured at an ambient temperature of 20 ℃ and a sample temperature of 20 ℃ using a Brookfield RV viscometer, spindle RV 4, without ramping up and down at 20 rpm.

According to the invention, the pH adjustment for measuring the viscosity of acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymers is accomplished by adding sodium hydroxide or citric acid.

The acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer according to the invention may be obtained from Fa Lubrizol under the trade name Pemulen^TMTR-1 is commercially available. Viscosity measurements made according to the present invention showed Pemulen^TMTR-1 had a viscosity of 7400 mPas. Pemulen tradename by Fa Lubrizol^TMEZ-4U A commercial acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer having a viscosity of 4900 mPas, measured as specified above.

Thus, in a second preferred embodiment, if the cosmetic composition comprises from 0.05% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, and most preferably from 0.2% to 0.7% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, said acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer being defined by the fact that: it is particularly preferred if the polymer is dissolved in water in a total amount of 0.2% by weight and the pH of the mixture is adjusted to 7.5, the resulting mixture having a viscosity in the range of 6500mPa · s to 8000mPa · s, wherein the viscosity is measured at an ambient temperature of 20 ℃ and a sample temperature of 20 ℃ using a Brookfield RV viscometer, spindle RV 4, without ramping up or down at 20 rpm.

In a second embodiment of the invention it is further preferred if the weight ratio between the oil a) and the total weight of the acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer is in the range of from 1:1 to 100:1, more preferably from 4:1 to 40:1, and most preferably from 7:1 to 13: 1.

In the second embodiment of the invention, it is generally also preferred if the total amount of any other polymeric rheology modifier, in particular polysaccharides, chemically modified polysaccharides, carbomers, sodium polyacrylate and/or other non-crosslinked polymers polymerized from a mixture containing acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, vinyl pyrrolidone and/or vinyl acetate, is less than 0.5 wt%, more preferably less than 0.15 wt%, and most preferably 0 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition. This means that it is most preferred if the cosmetic composition does not comprise a rheology modifier selected from the group of polysaccharides, chemically modified polysaccharides, carbomers, sodium polyacrylate and/or other non-crosslinked polymers polymerized from a mixture comprising acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, vinyl pyrrolidone and/or vinyl acetate.

In general, the cosmetic compositions of the present invention may be prepared by conventional formulation techniques for emulsions. However, in case the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises a water-soluble UV-filter, the water-soluble UV-filter may affect the gel formation of the acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, resulting in a loss of viscosity. It has surprisingly been found that this problem can be solved by adding a water-soluble UV filter after mixing all the other ingredients. This means that if the composition according to the invention comprises at least one water-soluble UV filter and a gel former, the water-soluble UV filter is preferably added after the formation of the gel structure.

Detailed Description