阅读说明：本技术 一种具有抗敏舒缓作用的仿生皮脂膜设计的液晶乳化剂及其制备方法和用途 (Liquid crystal emulsifier with anti-allergy and relieving effects and bionic sebum membrane design, and preparation method and application thereof ) 是由 庄福平 邹青松 于 2021-07-08 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明提供了一种具有抗敏舒缓作用的液晶乳化剂及其制备方法和用途,所述液晶乳化剂主要包含硬脂酰乳酰乳酸钠、甘油硬脂酸酯、山嵛醇、硬脂酰谷氨酸钠和小茴香油等成分。本发明通过将特定种类和含量的乳化剂、特定种类和含量的高级醇以及特定种类和含量的液态油脂进行复配,制备得到仿生皮脂膜设计的液晶乳化剂组合物,其形成的液晶结构数量多、形态粒径均一,在较大pH范围内稳定性高,且其本身还具有抗敏舒缓的生物活性,将其应用到化妆品中,能够促进皮肤角质层重建,提高皮肤的保湿性、抗水性,并具有出色的使用感受。(The invention provides a liquid crystal emulsifier with anti-allergy and relieving effects, and a preparation method and application thereof. According to the invention, the liquid crystal emulsifier composition with the bionic sebum membrane design is prepared by compounding the emulsifier with specific type and content, the higher alcohol with specific type and content and the liquid grease with specific type and content, the formed liquid crystal has a plurality of structures, uniform shape and particle size, high stability in a larger pH range, and has anti-allergy and anti-relaxation biological activity, and when the liquid crystal emulsifier composition is applied to cosmetics, the reconstruction of skin cuticle can be promoted, the moisture retention and water resistance of skin can be improved, and the liquid crystal emulsifier composition has excellent use feeling.)

1. A liquid crystal emulsifier with anti-allergy and relieving effects is characterized in that: the liquid crystal emulsifier comprises the following components in parts by weight:

10-20 parts of emulsifier, 10-20 parts of higher alcohol and 10-20 parts of liquid grease, wherein the emulsifier is selected from sodium stearoyl lactylate, sodium stearoyl glutamate or a mixture of the sodium stearoyl lactylate and the sodium stearoyl glutamate, the higher alcohol is selected from behenyl alcohol, and the liquid grease is selected from glyceryl stearate, fennel oil or a mixture of the glyceryl stearate and the fennel oil.

2. The liquid crystal emulsifier according to claim 1, wherein: according to the parts by weight, 12 parts of emulsifier, 12 parts of higher alcohol and 16 parts of liquid grease.

3. The liquid-crystalline emulsifier according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that: when the emulsifier is a mixture of sodium stearoyl lactylate and sodium stearoyl glutamate, the weight ratio of the sodium stearoyl lactylate to the sodium stearoyl glutamate is 4: 1 to 1: 1; when the liquid grease is a mixture of glycerol stearate and fennel oil, the weight ratio of the glycerol stearate to the fennel oil is 10: 1 to 20: 1.

4. the liquid-crystalline emulsifier according to claim 3, wherein: preferably, the weight ratio of sodium stearoyl lactylate to sodium stearoyl glutamate is 3: 1; and the weight ratio of the glyceryl stearate to the fennel oil is 15: 1.

5. the liquid-crystalline emulsifier according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that: the liquid crystal emulsifier further comprises deionized water in parts by weight.

6. The liquid-crystalline emulsifier according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that: preferably, the liquid crystal emulsifier does not contain polyethylene glycol and does not contain chemical preservatives.

7. The method for producing a liquid crystal emulsifier according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein: the preparation method comprises the following steps: marking the emulsifier, the higher alcohol and the liquid grease as an A phase and the deionized water as a B phase according to the proportion, respectively heating the A phase and the B phase, adding the B phase into the A phase under the condition of stirring the A phase, uniformly stirring the A phase and the B phase, cooling the A phase to the room temperature, and grinding the A phase and the B phase into powder.

8. Use of the liquid crystal emulsifier according to any one of claims 1 to 6 or the liquid crystal emulsifier prepared by the preparation method according to claim 7 for preparing cosmetics having anti-allergy soothing effect.

9. Use according to claim 8, characterized in that: the cosmetic is toner, lotion, essence, cream or facial mask, preferably, the cosmetic is allergy-relieving repair essence cream, allergy-relieving repair facial mask, children eczema cream or deep moisturizing cream, and the operation pH range for preparing the cosmetic is 4-12.

10. Use according to claim 8 or claim 9, characterized in that: the addition amount of the liquid crystal emulsifier is 2-6 wt% of the total weight of the cosmetic, preferably, the addition amount of the liquid crystal emulsifier in the emulsion is 2-3 wt% of the total weight of the cosmetic, and the addition amount of the liquid crystal emulsifier in the cream is 3.5-6 wt% of the total weight of the cosmetic.

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a liquid crystal emulsifier with anti-allergy and relieving effects, and a preparation method and application thereof.

Background

The liquid crystal is a state between liquid and crystal in structure and mechanical properties, and has both liquid fluidity and regularity of solid molecular arrangement. In 1969, Freiberg (Friberg) and the like discovered for the first time that when a surfactant was added to an oil-water system, a third phase, a liquid crystal phase, precipitated, the stability of the emulsion suddenly increased, because the liquid crystal was adsorbed on the oil-water interface to form a stable protective layer, which prevented the droplets from coarsening due to collision. Meanwhile, the existence of the liquid crystal adsorption layer can greatly reduce the long-range van der Waals force among liquid drops, thereby playing a stabilizing role. Furthermore, the resulting liquid crystals increase in viscosity by forming a network structure, which all leads to a more stable emulsion. Thus, it can be said that the concept of an emulsion has been changed from "one of two liquids which cannot be mixed with each other is dispersed into the other liquid" to a three-phase dispersion system in which liquid crystals are mixed with two liquids.

The liquid crystal structure which the surfactant may form is mainly hexagonal liquid crystal, cubic liquid crystal and lamellar liquid crystal. The skin care product is mainly lamellar liquid crystal. The lamellar liquid crystal has an oil/liquid crystal/water structure, is very similar to the oil/stratum corneum/water structure of human skin, is called as 'second stratum corneum', and can provide effects of efficiently moisturizing and slowly releasing active ingredients for the emulsion when being stably existed in the oil-in-water type skin care emulsion, so that the development of the skin care product containing the lamellar liquid crystal structure is a development trend of the future Chinese cosmetic market.

However, the liquid crystal emulsifiers sold in the market at present have the defects of low crystallization rate, large and uneven liquid crystal particle size, narrow applicable pH range, poor stability, no other complex functions and the like. Therefore, there is an urgent need to develop a novel liquid crystal emulsifier which is designed into a bionic skin lipid membrane and can be commercialized, and the defects can be overcome simultaneously.

Disclosure of Invention

In order to solve the technical problems, the invention develops the liquid crystal emulsifier with anti-allergy relieving effect, and the invention finds that the physicochemical property of the liquid crystal emulsifier can be obviously improved by adding a proper amount of fennel oil into the liquid crystal emulsifier, and the fennel oil has bacteriostatic action, so that no chemical preservative is required to be added into the liquid crystal emulsifier, and the liquid crystal emulsifier can generate stronger anti-allergy relieving effect per se, and depends on unexpected technical effects.

Specifically, the invention is realized by the following technical schemes:

in a first aspect, the invention provides a liquid crystal emulsifier with anti-allergy and relieving effects, which comprises the following components in parts by weight:

10-20 parts of emulsifier, 10-20 parts of higher alcohol and 10-20 parts of liquid grease, wherein the emulsifier is selected from sodium stearoyl lactylate, sodium stearoyl glutamate or a mixture of the sodium stearoyl lactylate and the sodium stearoyl glutamate, the higher alcohol is selected from behenyl alcohol, and the liquid grease is selected from glyceryl stearate, fennel oil or a mixture of the glyceryl stearate and the fennel oil.

Optionally, in the liquid crystal emulsifier, the emulsifier is 12 parts, the higher alcohol is 12 parts, and the liquid oil is 16 parts by weight.

Optionally, in the above liquid crystal emulsifier, when the emulsifier is a mixture of sodium stearoyl lactylate and sodium stearoyl glutamate, the weight ratio of sodium stearoyl lactylate to sodium stearoyl glutamate is 4: 1 to 1: 1; when the liquid grease is a mixture of glycerol stearate and fennel oil, the weight ratio of the glycerol stearate to the fennel oil is 10: 1 to 20: 1.

as an alternative mode, in the above liquid crystal emulsifier, preferably, the weight ratio of sodium stearoyl lactylate to sodium stearoyl glutamate is 3: 1; and the weight ratio of the glyceryl stearate to the fennel oil is 15: 1.

as an optional mode, in the above liquid crystal emulsifier, most preferably, the emulsifier is 12 parts by weight, the higher alcohol is 12 parts by weight, and the liquid oil is 16 parts by weight, the emulsifier is a mixture of sodium stearoyl lactylate and sodium stearoyl glutamate, and the weight ratio of the sodium stearoyl lactylate to the sodium stearoyl glutamate is 3: 1, the liquid grease is a mixture of glycerol stearate and fennel oil, and the weight ratio of the glycerol stearate to the fennel oil is 15: 1.

alternatively, in the above liquid crystal emulsifier, the liquid crystal emulsifier further comprises deionized water in parts by weight.

Alternatively, in the above liquid crystal emulsifier, it is preferable that the liquid crystal emulsifier does not contain polyethylene glycol and does not contain a chemical preservative.

In a second aspect, the present invention provides a method for preparing a liquid crystal emulsifier according to the first aspect, wherein the method comprises: the preparation method comprises the following steps:

marking the emulsifier, the higher alcohol and the liquid grease as an A phase and the deionized water as a B phase according to the proportion, respectively heating the A phase and the B phase, adding the B phase into the A phase under the condition of stirring the A phase, uniformly stirring, cooling to room temperature, and grinding into powder.

In a third aspect, the present invention provides the use of the liquid crystal emulsifier of the first aspect or the liquid crystal emulsifier prepared by the preparation method of the second aspect for preparing a cosmetic having anti-allergy soothing effect.

Alternatively, in the above application, the cosmetic is a toner, a lotion, a essence, a cream, or a pack. The operating pH range for the preparation of said cosmetic is 4-12.

Preferably, the cosmetic is a allergy-relieving repair essence cream, a allergy-relieving repair mask, a children eczema cream or a deep moisturizing cream.

Alternatively, in the above application, the liquid crystal emulsifier is added in an amount of 2 wt% to 6 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic.

Preferably, the addition amount of the liquid crystal emulsifier in the emulsion is 2-3 wt% of the total weight of the cosmetic, and the addition amount of the liquid crystal emulsifier in the cream is 3.5-6 wt% of the total weight of the cosmetic.

It is to be understood that within the scope of the present invention, the above-described features of the present invention and those specifically described below (e.g., in the examples) may be combined with each other to form new or preferred embodiments. For reasons of space, they will not be described in detail.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:

(1) according to the invention, the liquid crystal emulsifier composition with the bionic skin fat membrane design is prepared by compounding the emulsifier with specific type and content, the higher alcohol with specific type and content and the liquid grease with specific type and content, and the formed liquid crystal has a plurality of structures, uniform shape and particle size and high stability in a large pH range.

(2) The liquid crystal emulsifier has anti-allergy and soothing biological activity, can promote the reconstruction of the skin cuticle and improve the moisture retention and water resistance of the skin when being applied to cosmetics, and has excellent use feeling.

(3) The liquid crystal emulsifier provided by the invention uses a natural emulsifier, does not contain polyethylene glycol, is low in raw material cost, biodegradable and environment-friendly. In addition, fennel oil has a bacteriostatic action, so that a chemical preservative is not required to be added into the liquid crystal emulsifier.

(4) The preparation method of the liquid crystal emulsifier is simple, and the prepared liquid crystal emulsifier is easy to store and transport, is convenient to use, and is suitable for being developed into a commercialized liquid crystal emulsifier.

Drawings

FIG. 1: the liquid crystal emulsifier reduces the skin irritation test result.

FIG. 2: the liquid crystal emulsifier of the invention increases the skin moisture test result.

FIG. 3: the liquid crystal emulsifier maintains the skin barrier function test result.

FIG. 4: the liquid crystal emulsifier of the invention has consistency test results in different pH values.

Detailed Description

The invention is further illustrated with reference to specific examples. It should be understood that the specific embodiments described herein are illustrative only and are not limiting upon the scope of the invention.

The examples do not show the specific techniques or conditions, according to the technical or conditions described in the literature in the field, or according to the product specifications. The reagents or instruments used are conventional products which are not known to manufacturers and are available from normal sources.

The experimental procedures in the following examples are conventional unless otherwise specified. The test materials used in the following examples are all commercially available products unless otherwise specified.

Example (b):

1. composition and liquid crystal structure of liquid crystal emulsifier

The observation and verification method of the liquid crystal structure comprises the following steps: sampling an Olibbas polarizing microscope, dripping a very small amount of sample (50 mu L) on a glass slide, covering a cover glass, spreading the sample on the glass slide in a thin layer form, paying attention to the removal of bubbles, observing the quantity, morphological structure and integrity of liquid crystal formed by the sample under a polarizing microscope (200x), and taking a picture to record an experimental result.

Table 1: composition and liquid crystal structure detection indexes of examples 1-4 and comparative examples 1-4 of the present invention

Ingredients (in parts by weight)	Example 1	Example 2	Example 3	Example 4	Comparative example 1	Comparative example 2	Comparative example 3	Comparative example 4
									Stearoyl lactylate sodium	8	9	9	9	9	9	9	15
Stearoyl glutamate sodium salt	4	3	3	3	3	0	3	10
									Behenyl alcohol	12	15	12	12	12	12	0	8
Glycerol stearate	15	15	15	12	15	15	15	15
									Fennel oil	1	1	1	1	0	1	1	5
Deionized water	To 100	To 100	To 100	To 100	To 100	To 100	To 100	To 100
									Number of liquid crystals	700	720	750	680	200	110	0	80
Morphological integrity	Good effect	Good effect	Good effect	Good effect	Difference (D)	Difference (D)	Is free of	Difference (D)
									Uniformity of particle size	Good effect	Good effect	Good effect	Medium and high grade	Difference (D)	Difference (D)	Is free of	Difference (D)

The results in table 1 show that, as shown in the results of examples 1 to 4, after the emulsifier of the present invention, the higher alcohol of the specific type and content, and the liquid oil of the specific type and content are compounded, the liquid crystal emulsifier with a large number of liquid crystal structures, complete liquid crystal forms, and uniform particle sizes can be prepared. However, as shown in the results of comparative examples 1 to 4, when a part of the components of the liquid crystal emulsifier composition of the present invention was removed or the ratio of the amounts of the components in the liquid crystal emulsifier composition was changed, each test index of the liquid crystal structure was significantly deteriorated, and even a liquid crystal emulsifier could not be formed.

2. Skin irritation reduction test for liquid Crystal emulsifiers of the invention

The skin of 20 volunteers was treated with sodium lauryl sulfate (K12). The color values (red) were determined before and after using K12. Of these, 10 volunteers were treated with an emulsion containing 5 wt% of the liquid crystal emulsifier of example 3 for 5 days, and the other 10 volunteers were treated with a common emulsion base for blank comparison.

As shown in fig. 1, the results show that the emulsion containing the liquid crystal emulsifier of example 3 significantly reduced the irritation caused by K12 and completely eliminated the irritation on day 5.

3. The liquid crystal emulsifier of the invention can increase the skin moisture retention

The skin moisture retention of 20 volunteers was measured using a skin moisture tester, and was measured before use and 4 hours after application of the sample to the skin, respectively.

As shown in fig. 2, the results show that emulsions containing 5 wt% of the liquid crystal emulsifier of example 3 can increase the water retention on the skin by up to 1.2 times compared to emulsions containing other emulsifiers (e.g., example 1, example 2, comparative example 1, comparative example 2) under equivalent formulation conditions.

4. The liquid crystal emulsifier maintains the function of skin barrier

In the previous experiment in section 2, the trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) was also tested.

As shown in FIG. 3, the results show that the emulsion containing the liquid crystal emulsifier of example 3 significantly reduces TEWL by 50-80%, enhances the water-fat barrier and prevents the loss of moisture through the skin, and greatly improves the moisturizing effect of the skin.

5. The consistency of the liquid crystal emulsifier in different pH values

The consistency of the liquid-crystalline emulsifiers shown in example 3 was determined at different pH values. As shown in FIG. 4, the results show that the liquid crystal emulsifier shown in example 3 is stable in a wide pH range and can be used for fruit acid emulsions and moisturizing creams.

6. Anti-allergy relieving action test of liquid crystal emulsifier

6.1. Test subjects:

140 skin allergic subjects, 70 each for men and women, aged between 18 and 50 years, were randomized into 7 groups (20 subjects per group): blank control, example 2, example 3, comparative 1, comparative 2, comparative 3 and comparative 4.

6.2. The treatment method comprises the following steps:

the compositions described in example 2, example 3 and comparative examples 1 to 4 were added at 2.5 wt% to a conventional emulsion base to make test emulsions. The blank used only the emulsion base. The corresponding test emulsions were used for example 2, example 3, comparative 1, comparative 2, comparative 3 and comparative 4 groups, respectively.

The composition is applied once in the morning and evening every day, and the allergic region of skin is cleaned before application. The first re-diagnosis is carried out after 3 days of continuous use, and the second re-diagnosis is carried out after 7 days of continuous use.

6.3. And (4) judging the standard:

(1) the effect is shown: the skin allergy such as red and swelling, pruritus and skin damage can be eliminated.

(2) The method has the following advantages: the skin allergy such as red swelling, pruritus and skin damage is reduced.

(3) And (4) invalidation: the skin is red and swollen, pruritus, skin damage and other allergic phenomena are not obviously changed.

(4) Weighting: the skin is red and swollen, itching, skin damage and other allergic phenomena.

6.4. The treatment results are as follows:

as can be seen from the results in table 2, the subjects in the blank control group had gradually increased allergic symptoms during the study period due to the lack of timely anti-allergic treatment.

The results of the example 2 group and the example 3 group show that after the emulsifier with specific types and contents, the higher alcohol with specific types and contents and the liquid grease with specific types and contents are compounded, the liquid crystal emulsifier also has the anti-allergy and soothing biological activity.

However, the results of comparative examples 1 to 4 show that the anti-allergy relieving effect of the liquid crystal emulsifier of the present invention is significantly deteriorated or even lost after removing a part of the components (e.g., fennel oil, sodium stearyl glutamate or behenyl alcohol) of the liquid crystal emulsifier composition of the present invention or changing the amount ratio of the components in the liquid crystal emulsifier composition.

Table 2: test result of anti-allergy relieving effect of liquid crystal emulsifier

Therefore, the liquid crystal emulsifier composition with the bionic skin fat membrane design is prepared by compounding the emulsifier with specific type and content, the higher alcohol with specific type and content and the liquid grease with specific type and content, the formed liquid crystal structure is large in quantity, uniform in shape and particle size, high in stability in a large pH range, and has anti-allergy and soothing biological activity, and when the liquid crystal emulsifier composition is applied to cosmetics, the reconstruction of the skin cuticle can be promoted, the moisture retention and water resistance of the skin are improved, and the liquid crystal emulsifier composition has excellent use feeling.

It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that various changes and modifications may be made in the present invention without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. Thus, if such modifications and variations of the present invention fall within the scope of the claims of the present invention and their equivalents, the present invention is also intended to include such modifications and variations.