阅读说明：本技术 用于预处理皮肤的化妆品组合物 (Cosmetic composition for the pretreatment of skin ) 是由 亚内尔·德莫拉 朱迪思·莫兰 弗兰克·施万克 奥斯瓦多·何塞·法比安·克鲁兹塞万茨 于 2018-04-05 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明属于化妆品领域,并且涉及一种含有酯、聚合物和水的特定组合的化妆品组合物,所述化妆品组合物使存在于用所述化妆品组合物预处理的表面上的水滴的接触角增加。(The present invention is in the field of cosmetics and relates to a cosmetic composition containing a specific combination of an ester, a polymer and water, which increases the contact angle of a water droplet present on a surface pretreated with said cosmetic composition.)

1. A cosmetic composition comprises

a) At least one ester selected from: isodecyl malate, C12-15 alkyl lactate, lauryl lactate and esters according to formula (I),

wherein

n is an integer in the range of 2 to 10, preferably in the range of 4 to 8, and most preferably 4; and is

R¹Is a compound containing 2 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably 3 to 8 carbon atoms, and most preferablyPreferably a linear or branched alkyl group of 3 to 4 carbon atoms;

b) at least one acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer; and

c) at least 60 wt% water, based on the total weight of the composition;

wherein the weight ratio between the ester a) and the acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer b) is in the range of 1:1 to 30:1, more preferably 2:1 to 25:1, and most preferably 3:1 to 18: 1.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the ester a) is selected from esters according to formula (I) wherein n is an integer ranging from 4 to 8 and R is¹Is a straight or branched alkyl group containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.

3. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that the ester a) is selected from esters according to formula (I) wherein n ═ 4, and R is¹Is a straight or branched alkyl group containing from 3 to 4 carbon atoms.

4. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the total amount of the esters a) ranges from 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 12% by weight, and most preferably from 2 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer b) comprised in the composition is defined by the fact that: if the polymers are dissolved in water in a total amount of 0.2% by weight and the resulting mixture is adjusted to a pH of 7.5, the viscosity of the resulting mixture is in the range of 500 to 8000mPa s, measured at an ambient temperature of 20 ℃ and a sample temperature of 20 ℃ using a Brookfield RV viscometer, spindle RV4, without ramping up or down at 20 rpm.

6. Cosmetic composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer b) contained in the composition is defined by the fact that: if the polymers are dissolved in water in a total amount of 0.2% by weight and the resulting mixture is adjusted to a pH of 7.5, the viscosity of the resulting mixture is in the range from 550 mPas to 5500 mPas, measured at an ambient temperature of 20 ℃ and a sample temperature of 20 ℃ using a Brookfield RV viscometer, spindle RV4, without ramping up or down at 20 rpm.

7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the at least one acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer b) is comprised in a cosmetic composition in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it comprises a total amount of water of from 60% to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 60% to 85% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it comprises at least one silicone oil in a total amount of from 0.05% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight and most preferably from 0.2% to 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the total amount of non-silicone oils having a dielectric constant at 25 ℃ of less than 4.0 and not being the total of organic UV filters is less than 1.5% by weight, more preferably less than 0.8% by weight, more preferably less than 0.5% by weight, more preferably less than 0.2% by weight and most preferably less than 0.01% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

11. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the total amount of C12-15 alkyl benzoate, mineral oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride and/or ethylhexyl palmitate in the cosmetic composition is less than 0.2% by weight, and more preferably 0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

12. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the total amount of lipid phase of the composition is from 0.5% to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

13. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the total amount of polysaccharide, chemically modified polysaccharide, carbomer, sodium polyacrylate and/or other polymer polymerized from a mixture containing acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, vinyl pyrrolidone and/or vinyl acetate is less than 0.2% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight and most preferably 0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

14. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that it comprises a total amount of 0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of a polymer polymerized from a mixture containing polyols and di-or polyisocyanates.

15. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that it comprises at least one organic UV filter, preferably chosen from the following compounds: homosalate, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, octocrylene, ethylhexyl triazone, ethylhexyl salicylate, benzophenone-4, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, and polysiloxane-15.

16. Cosmetic composition according to claim 15, characterized in that the organic UV filter is chosen from: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane; and the total amount of organic UV filter selected from the compounds bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane ranges from 1 to 35 wt. -%, more preferably from 8 to 30 wt. -%, and most preferably from 10 to 28 wt. -%, based on the total weight of the composition.

17. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, characterized in that it comprises a gel structure, preferably a microgel structure.

18. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17, characterized in that it comprises ethanol in a total amount of less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably 0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

19. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 18, characterized in that the composition comprises any further emulsifier or surfactant in a total amount of less than 2% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, more preferably less than 0.5% by weight, more preferably 0.2% by weight, and most preferably 0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

20. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1 to 19, wherein the composition has a viscosity in the range of from 1500 to 8000 mPa-s, more preferably from 3500 to 7000 mPa-s, wherein the viscosity is measured at an ambient temperature of 20 ℃ and a sample temperature of 20 ℃ using a Brookfield RV viscometer, spindle RV4, without ramping at 20 rpm.

21. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 20, characterized in that it comprises cetyl and/or stearyl alcohol in a range from 0.2% to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

22. Use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 21 for increasing the contact angle of a water droplet present on a surface treated or pre-treated with the cosmetic composition.

Example (b):

the following examples should illustrate the compositions of the present invention without limiting the invention to these examples. The values in the examples are in weight percent based on the total weight of the formulation.

In a first study, a visual assessment was made, analysing the shape of the drop formation on skin pretreated with the formulations shown in the following table:

table 2:

the visual assessment study was performed in the following manner.

1. Sections of 5 cm in diameter were marked on the cleaned skin of the participants' forearms.

2. Mu.l of each composition listed in Table 2 were applied to the respective cross-section and evenly distributed over the marked area with the fingertips.

3. Wait 5 minutes for the composition to absorb.

4. Then a 25. mu.l drop of water was placed on the cross section of the mark. Furthermore, additional water drops were placed outside the treated and marked sections as a reference.

5. The forearm was photographed within 20 seconds after application and the shape of the drop was analyzed.

It was found that water droplets placed on sections with the compositions of the invention inv.1, inv.2 and inv.3 showed a similarly large contact angle as, for example, water droplets placed on untreated sections. In contrast, a water drop placed on a section treated with a composition com.1 not according to the invention spreads out and therefore shows a small contact angle.

Fig. 1 shows a photograph of a water droplet placed on a cross section treated with compositions inv.2 and com.1. Also, water droplets placed on the untreated section are shown.

Fig. 2 shows photographs of water droplets placed on sections treated with compositions inv.1 and inv.3. Also, water droplets placed on the untreated section are shown.

Fig. 3 shows further photographs of water droplets placed on a section treated with composition inv.1. Also, water droplets placed on the untreated section are shown.

In a further study, the contact angle of a water drop placed on a surface treated with compositions inv.1, inv.2 or com.1 was measured. The measurement of the contact angle was carried out in the following manner:

1. 1.3mg/cm²The sample formulations of (1) were placed on a PMMA plate (grit blasted PMMA plate type WW5(RA ═ 5 μm roughness) Schonberg Acrylic Design in Hamburg, Schnelsen).

2. The sample was spread 10 times with a circular motion using a finger cot.

3. Wait 20 to 30 minutes to dry the composition.

4. The plates containing the samples were either untreated or treated with 30ml of Phosphate Buffered Saline (PBS), protein solution (containing bovine serum albumin) or demineralized water. And then wait until the sample is dry.

5. A drop of water was placed on each plate and two measurements of the contact angle were made using a goniometer (Dataphysics OCA 20). The first measurement was taken immediately when the drop was placed on the sample plate and the second measurement was taken 2 seconds after the drop was flat.

The results of the experiment are shown in table 3, where the first value corresponds to the immediate measurement and the second value corresponds to the measurement performed 2 seconds after the water drop has spread flat:

table 3:

preparation	Without further treatment	PBS solution	Protein solution	Softened water
					Com.1	40,96°/24,03°	41,17°/11,19°	32,52°/11,37°	47,82°/13,83°
Inv.1	85,4°/52,43°	68,51°/54,22°	82,75°/54,87°	84,71°/53,16°
					Inv.2	79,12°/65,65°	76,19°/63,49°	81,03°/70,19°	79,63°/70,39°

From the results it can be seen that both compositions inv.1 and inv.2 according to the invention exhibit a larger contact angle of a water droplet than the non-inventive composition com.1. The results were consistent with the visual analysis described above.

The following examples further illustrate the invention.