阅读说明：本技术 一种彩妆组合物及含有该组合物的化妆品 (Color cosmetic composition and cosmetic containing same ) 是由 沈进 高亢 阮旌豪 于 2020-07-29 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明公开了一种彩妆组合物及含有该组合物的化妆品,本发明的彩妆组合物包含A相、B相、C相、D相,其中,按质量百分数计：A相包含粘合剂4-18％,乳化剂2-16％,抗结块剂1-10％,防腐剂0.1-1.2％；B相包含保湿剂1-12％,皮肤调理剂0.05-2％,增稠剂0.02-0.6％,防腐剂0.1-1.0％,水适量；C相为着色剂15-60％；D相为亲水性增稠剂0.05-0.5％。该彩妆组合物能够制备出纹理清晰的立体造型彩妆产品,属于化妆品技术领域。(The invention discloses a color cosmetic composition and a cosmetic containing the same, wherein the color cosmetic composition comprises an A phase, a B phase, a C phase and a D phase, wherein the color cosmetic composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: the phase A comprises 4-18% of adhesive, 2-16% of emulsifier, 1-10% of anti-caking agent and 0.1-1.2% of preservative; the phase B comprises 1-12% of humectant, 0.05-2% of skin conditioner, 0.02-0.6% of thickening agent, 0.1-1.0% of preservative and a proper amount of water; the C phase is 15-60% of colorant; the phase D is hydrophilic thickener 0.05-0.5%. The makeup composition can be used for preparing a three-dimensional makeup product with clear textures, and belongs to the technical field of cosmetics.)

1. The color cosmetic composition is characterized by comprising an A phase, a B phase, a C phase and a D phase, and the weight percentages are as follows:

the phase A comprises 4-18% of adhesive, 2-16% of emulsifier, 1-10% of anti-caking agent and 0.1-1.2% of preservative;

the phase B comprises 1-12% of humectant, 0.05-2% of skin conditioner, 0.02-0.6% of thickening agent, 0.1-1.0% of preservative and a proper amount of water;

the C phase is 15-60% of colorant;

the phase D is hydrophilic thickener 0.05-0.5%.

Wherein the A phase adhesive is any one of cetearyl ethyl hexanoate, isotridecanol isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, squalane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, butanediol dicaprylate/dicaprate.

The phase A emulsifier comprises a main emulsifier and a co-emulsifier, wherein the main emulsifier is one of polysorbate-80, polysorbate-20, PEG-20 sorbitan oleate, cetearyl glucoside, glyceryl stearate// PEG-100 stearate, sorbitan stearate// sucrose cocoate; the auxiliary emulsifier is one of PEG-8 ester C12-20 acid, cetostearyl alcohol, and C14-22 alcohol.

The A-phase antiblocking agent is any one of HDI/trihydroxymethyl hexyl lactone cross-linked polymer// silica, polymethyl methacrylate, chinlon-12, silica and methyl methacrylate cross-linked polymer.

2. The color cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophilic thickener is one selected from the group consisting of potassium chloride, sodium chloride, calcium chloride, and calcium hydrogen phosphate.

3. The color cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the mass ratio of the main emulsifier to the co-emulsifier in the emulsifier is preferably 3: 5.

4. The color cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the thickener in phase B is a combination of any two of a Chondrus crispus extract, xanthan gum, and locust bean pectin.

5. The color cosmetic composition according to claim 4, wherein the thickener in phase B is preferably a combination of Chondrus crispus extract and locust bean pectin in a mass ratio of 3: 2.

6. The color cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the preservatives in the phase A and the phase B are selected from one or more of caprylyl glycol, ethylhexyl glycerin, methyl hydroxybenzoate, propyl hydroxybenzoate, benzyl alcohol, sodium benzoate, phenoxyethanol, and glyceryl caprylate.

7. The color cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the humectant is selected from one or more of glycerin, propylene glycol and butylene glycol, and the skin conditioner is selected from one or more of tremella entity extract, sodium hyaluronate, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, alpha-arbutin, allantoin, trehalose and sodium PCA.

8. A cosmetic, characterized in that it is prepared from the color cosmetic composition of claim 1 by the following method:

(1) mixing the adhesive, emulsifier, anticaking agent and antiseptic in phase A at 70-85 deg.C, stirring, and keeping the temperature;

(2) mixing the humectant, the skin conditioner, the thickener, the antiseptic and the water in the phase B at 70-85 deg.C, stirring, and keeping the temperature;

(3) adding phase D into phase B, and stirring at 70-85 deg.C;

(4) adding the phase A mixture obtained in the step (1) into the phase BD mixture obtained in the step (3), and uniformly stirring;

(5) adding the phase C into the mixed material in the step (4), and uniformly stirring;

(6) pouring the mixture of ABCD into silica gel mold, cooling to-10-20 deg.C, demolding, oven drying at 50-80 deg.C for 8-24 hr, molding, and packaging.

Technical Field

The invention discloses a color cosmetic composition, in particular to color cosmetic powder capable of being prepared into a three-dimensional shape and a preparation method thereof, belonging to the technical field of cosmetics.

Background

In recent years, as people have more and more focused on the image when participating in social activities, the demand for color cosmetics has also sharply increased. More and more consumers decorate their faces by using color cosmetic products to achieve a beautification effect. The color cosmetic powder is a product which takes powder as a main raw material in color cosmetic products, and comprises pressed powder, eye shadow, blush, high gloss and the like. The appearance of such flat surfaces is becoming increasingly difficult to draw consumer attention in appearance.

The existing common color cosmetics are all made into loose powder, then an aluminum plate is used as a bottom support, and an aluminum die copper sheet is pressed and formed. The forming mode can not make the powder block with three-dimensional shape and clear lines, and the product appearance usually shows a flat surface. In addition, the color cosmetics formed by pressing are not smooth, fine and smooth enough to be attached to the skin, and are easy to be powdered.

Therefore, there is a need to develop a color cosmetic product having a three-dimensional shape and excellent in use effect.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to provide a color cosmetic composition, which is prepared into a fluid milky lotion, is filled into a silica gel mold, and is cooled and demolded to obtain a three-dimensional color cosmetic product. Because the body is milky with fluidity, the color cosmetic products with different three-dimensional shapes can be prepared by selecting the mould. Meanwhile, the skin conditioning active ingredients such as moisturizing and whitening can be added into the product more easily according to the requirements, and the product is more fine and smooth in powder quality and is more smooth and more transparent to skin than a dry powder product, and has the effects of moisturizing, whitening and the like.

Therefore, the first technical scheme provided by the invention is as follows:

a makeup composition comprising an A phase, a B phase, a C phase and a D phase, wherein the mass percentages are as follows:

the phase A comprises 4-18% of adhesive, 2-16% of emulsifier, 1-10% of anti-caking agent and 0.1-1.2% of preservative;

the phase B comprises 1-12% of humectant, 0.05-2% of skin conditioner, 0.02-0.6% of thickening agent, 0.1-1.0% of preservative and a proper amount of water;

the C phase is 15-60% of colorant;

the phase D is hydrophilic thickener 0.05-0.5%.

In the embodiment of the present invention, the phase a binder is preferably a light-density oil, and may be, for example, cetearyl ethyl hexanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, squalane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, butanediol dicaprylate/dicaprate, etc., and is preferably cetearyl ethyl hexanoate.

In the invention, in order to make the coloring agent have better compatibility with the adhesive, the anti-caking agent and the like, the emulsifier can be used by matching the main emulsifier with the auxiliary emulsifier for synergistic emulsification.

In the present invention, the primary emulsifier may be one selected from polysorbate-80, polysorbate-20, PEG-20 sorbitan oleate, cetearyl glucoside, glyceryl stearate// PEG-100 stearate, sorbitan stearate// sucrose cocoate.

The coemulsifier in the invention can be selected from one of PEG-8 ester C12-20 acid, cetearyl alcohol and C14-22 alcohol. In the invention, the selection of the co-emulsifier not only needs to consider the better co-emulsification effect, but also can be used as grease to adjust the skin feel.

The preferred co-emulsifier in the invention is C12-20 acid PEG-8 ester, which has excellent emulsifying property, good stability and strong affinity with skin. Since C12-20 acid PEG-8 ester is solid at normal temperature, when the temperature is raised to a certain temperature, it will melt under the action of shearing force, and will recover to solidification state after the shearing is stopped and the normal temperature is recovered, so that it can emulsify water, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, etc.

In the present invention, the mass ratio of the main emulsifier to the co-emulsifier in the emulsifier is preferably 3: 5.

In the present invention, the anti-blocking agent in phase A may be any one selected from HDI/trimethylol hexyl lactone crosspolymer// silica, polymethyl methacrylate, nylon-12, silica, and methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, and preferably HDI/trimethylol hexyl lactone crosspolymer// silica. HDI/trihydroxymethyl hexyl lactone cross-linked polymer// silica is purchased from Korea-European trade (Shanghai) Co., Ltd, and is a high molecular powder for regulating skin feeling of the powder.

According to the invention, through reasonable combination of the anti-caking agent, the emulsifier, the adhesive and the like, the prepared milky ointment is easy to demould after being dried by the solvent, does not crack after being formed and has good coloring.

In addition, when the content of mica, talc, silica, pearlizing agent and other coloring agents in the conventional liquid filling formula is high, the mold is easy to stick after being baked and demoulded.

According to the invention, by selecting a proper thickener, such as the combination of any two of the carrageen crispus extract, the xanthan gum and the locust pectin, the demoulded product can not stick to a mould, and meanwhile, the reasonable proportion of the thickener can ensure the toughness of the product and prevent the product from being too brittle and brittle after being formed. More preferably, the D-phase hydrophilic thickening agent, such as one of potassium chloride, sodium chloride, calcium chloride and calcium hydrophosphate, can be added into the water-based paint in a mass ratio of 0.05-0.5%.

When the content of the colorant in the formula is high, the mixture of the Chondrus crispus extract and the locust pectin is added according to a certain proportion, and gelling ions such as hydrophilic thickening agent are combined to form gel at 40-70 ℃, so that the product is better helped to be released from a silica gel mold, the effects of mold release and mold sticking prevention similar to oil wax-based lip balms are achieved, and meanwhile, certain toughness is ensured to be not easy to break. Wherein the preferable thickening agent is a combination of the carrageen crispus extract and the locust pectin in a mass ratio of 3: 2.

In the invention, the preservative in the phase A and the phase B is selected from one or more of caprylyl glycol, ethylhexyl glycerol, methyl hydroxybenzoate, propyl hydroxybenzoate, benzyl alcohol, sodium benzoate, phenoxyethanol and glyceryl caprylate.

In the invention, the humectant in the B phase can be one or more selected from glycerin, propylene glycol and butanediol.

In the invention, the skin conditioning agent in the phase B is selected from one or more of tremella entity extract, sodium hyaluronate, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, alpha-arbutin, allantoin, trehalose and PCA sodium.

In the present invention, the colorant in the C phase may be selected from one or a combination of CI 77019, CI 77019// CI 77891// tin oxide, CI77499, CI 77491, CI 15850, CI 45410, and the like.

The invention also provides a cosmetic which is prepared by the following method:

(1) mixing the adhesive, emulsifier, anticaking agent and antiseptic in phase A at 70-85 deg.C, stirring, and keeping the temperature;

(2) mixing the humectant, the skin conditioner, the thickener, the antiseptic and the water in the phase B at 70-85 deg.C, stirring, and keeping the temperature;

(3) adding phase D into phase B, and stirring at 70-85 deg.C;

(4) adding the phase A mixture obtained in the step (1) into the phase BD mixture obtained in the step (3), and uniformly stirring;

(5) adding the phase C into the mixed material in the step (4), and uniformly stirring;

(6) pouring the mixture of ABCD into silica gel mold, cooling to-10-20 deg.C, demolding, oven drying at 50-80 deg.C for 8-24 hr, molding, and packaging.

Compared with the prior art, the technical scheme provided by the invention has the following technical advantages:

(1) the color cosmetic composition is prepared into an emulsion with fluidity and then poured into a silica gel mold, and color cosmetic products with different three-dimensional shapes can be prepared after cooling and demolding. Because the product is in the form of emulsion during preparation, active ingredients such as moisturizing and whitening can be added, and the product has better skin conditioning effect than the traditional press-forming color cosmetic product. The color cosmetic product prepared by the composition is fine and smooth in powder quality, clear and smooth, and not easy to be pulverized.

(2) In the composition, the anti-caking agent, the emulsifier, the adhesive, the thickener and the like are reasonably combined, and the prepared emulsion is easy to demould after being dried by a solvent, does not crack after being formed, has clear textures and is easy to color.

(3) According to the technical scheme, the proper thickener is selected, so that the demolding of the material body can be assisted when the content of the colorant is high, and the demolding and mold sticking prevention effects similar to those of oil wax-based lip balms can be achieved.

Drawings

FIG. 1 shows a color cosmetic composition of example 4 of the present invention

Detailed Description

The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention are clearly and completely described below, and it is obvious that the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all embodiments. For process parameters or conditions not specifically mentioned, it can be carried out with reference to conventional techniques. The raw materials used in the present invention may be obtained by home-made or purchased from commercial sources.

Table 1 is some examples in the technical solution of the present invention, but the embodiment of the present invention is not limited thereto.

TABLE 1 compositions and amounts of examples 1-9

In the above embodiment, the humectant is glycerin, and may be selected from any one of propylene glycol and butylene glycol, or a combination thereof. The antiseptic in phase A and phase B is selected from sodium benzoate, and also can be one or more of caprylyl glycol, ethylhexyl glycerol, methyl hydroxybenzoate, propyl hydroxybenzoate, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, and glyceryl caprylate. The skin conditioner is selected from trehalose, and also can be selected from one or more of Tremella fruiting body extract, sodium hyaluronate, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, alpha-arbutin, allantoin, and PCA sodium. The colorant is selected from CI 77019, and also can be selected from one or a combination of CI 77019// CI 77891// tin oxide, CI77499, CI 77491, CI 15850, CI 45410 and the like. The hydrophilic thickener is selected from potassium chloride, and can also be selected from one of sodium chloride, calcium chloride and calcium hydrogen phosphate.

The embodiments of the present invention can be selected based on the above-mentioned ingredients, and the selection of the ingredients of the moisturizer, the antiseptic, the skin conditioner, and the colorant has little influence on the mold release effect, the skin feel, the texture after molding, and the like of the product.

The makeup cosmetic compositions containing examples 1 to 9 were mainly prepared by the following methods:

(1) mixing the binder, emulsifier, anticaking agent, and antiseptic in phase A at 70-85 deg.C (preferably 80 deg.C), stirring, and keeping the temperature;

(2) mixing the humectant, skin conditioner, thickener, antiseptic and water in phase B at 70-85 deg.C (preferably 80 deg.C), stirring, and keeping the temperature;

(3) adding phase D into phase B, and stirring at 70-85 deg.C (preferably 80 deg.C);

(4) adding the phase A mixture obtained in the step (1) into the phase BD mixture obtained in the step (3), and uniformly stirring;

(5) adding the phase C into the mixed material in the step (4), and uniformly stirring;

(6) pouring the mixture of ABCD into silica gel mold, cooling to-10-20 deg.C (preferably 10 deg.C), demolding, oven drying at 50-80 deg.C (preferably 60 deg.C) for 8-24 hr (preferably 15 hr), molding, and packaging.

In order to better embody the superiority of the technical solution of the present invention, the following comparative examples 1 to 7 were also provided for the present invention, as shown in table 2.

Of these, comparative example 1 is mainly compared with example 1, except that cetearyl ethylhexanoate is replaced with an equal amount of pentaerythritol tetrakis (ethylhexanoate).

Comparative example 2 is mainly compared to example 2, with the difference that the emulsifier in comparative example 2 contains only the co-emulsifier cetearyl alcohol in an amount corresponding to the total amount of emulsifier in example 2.

Comparative example 3 is mainly compared to example 3 with the difference that the anti-caking agent content in comparative example 3 is outside the scope of protection of the present invention.

Comparative example 4 is mainly compared with example 4, except that the emulsifier in comparative example 4 contains only polysorbate-80, the main emulsifier, in a total amount equivalent to that of the emulsifier in example 4.

Comparative example 5 is mainly compared with example 5, except that the thickener in comparative example 5 contains only the extract of Chondrus crispus in an amount equivalent to the total amount of the thickener of example 5.

Comparative example 6 is compared to example 5 with the difference that the thickener in comparative example 6 contains only locust pectin in an amount equivalent to the total amount of thickener of example 5.

Comparative example 7 is mainly compared with example 5, except that the thickener in comparative example 7 consists of Chondrus crispus extract and gellan gum.

TABLE 2 compositions and amounts of comparative examples 1-7

Wherein, the makeup composition cosmetics containing comparative examples 1 to 7 are mainly prepared by the following method:

(1) mixing the binder, emulsifier, anticaking agent, and antiseptic in phase A at 70-85 deg.C (preferably 80 deg.C), stirring, and keeping the temperature;

(2) mixing the humectant, skin conditioner, thickener, antiseptic and water in phase B at 70-85 deg.C (preferably 80 deg.C), stirring, and keeping the temperature;

(3) adding phase D into phase B, and stirring at 70-85 deg.C (preferably 80 deg.C);

(4) adding the phase A mixture obtained in the step (1) into the phase BD mixture obtained in the step (3), and uniformly stirring;

(5) adding the phase C into the mixed material in the step (4), and uniformly stirring;

(6) pouring the mixture of ABCD into silica gel mold, cooling to-10-20 deg.C (preferably 10 deg.C), demolding, oven drying at 50-80 deg.C (preferably 60 deg.C) for 8-24 hr (preferably 15 hr), molding, and packaging.

1. Product performance, appearance and use effect test

1.1 rub and drop Performance test

The makeup cosmetics prepared in examples 1 to 9 and comparative examples 1 to 7 were subjected to rubbing performance and dropping performance tests with reference to QB/T1976 to 2006, and the test results are shown in table 3.

TABLE 3 rub and drop test results

Wherein, the qualified smearing performance means that the area of the oil cake is less than or equal to 1/4 powder cake area; the qualified drop test indicates that the damage is less than or equal to 1.

As can be seen from Table 3, the makeup cosmetics prepared by the technical scheme of the invention are qualified in terms of the smearing performance and the drop test.

1.2 demolding of the product

The release profiles for the products are summarized in table 4.

TABLE 4 demolding conditions

Remarking: + + + represents very easy demolding and no mold sticking; + represents easier demolding and no mold sticking; + means that release is possible but there will be partial mold sticking;

as can be seen from Table 4, the color cosmetic product prepared by the technical scheme of the invention has good demoulding effect and does not stick to a mould.

1.3 product appearance, skin feel, etc

The results of trial evaluations of the appearance texture, the coloring degree, the makeup clarity and the skin-contacting condition of the products of examples 1 to 9 were carried out on 5 female volunteers aged 20 to 30, and are shown in table 5.

TABLE 5 appearance, skin feel, etc. properties of the product

Sample (I)	Definition of texture	Color upper degree	Clear degree of cosmetic	Skin-sticking property
					Example 1	3	4	4	4
Example 2	3	5	4	4
					Example 3	4	3	4	4
Example 4	5	5	5	4
					Example 5	3	4	5	5
Example 6	5	5	4	5
					Example 7	4	4	5	4
Example 8	4	5	4	5
					Example 9	4	4	5	5

Remarking: the appearance and skin feel scores range from 1 to 5 points, and the higher the score, the better the test effect.

As can be seen from Table 5, the product of the invention has excellent effects in the aspects of texture definition, color fastness, makeup clarity and skin-adhering property, and the total score is more than 15 points. The invention has good effect in the aspect of preparing the three-dimensional shape color cosmetic product, and still has good product texture, chromaticity, skin feel and the like even under the condition of high content of the colorant through reasonable combination of the formula.

The above embodiments are preferred embodiments of the present invention, but the present invention is not limited to the above embodiments, and any other changes, modifications, substitutions, combinations, and simplifications which do not depart from the spirit and principle of the present invention should be construed as equivalents thereof, and all such changes, modifications, substitutions, combinations, and simplifications are intended to be included in the scope of the present invention.