阅读说明：本技术 含渗透促进剂的化妆品组合物、精华液及其制备方法 (Cosmetic composition containing penetration enhancer, essence and preparation method thereof ) 是由 邬燕红 胡新成 王国安 于 2020-03-29 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明含渗透促进剂的化妆品组合物中的渗透促进剂可以有效促进有效活性物质的吸收,从而使含渗透促进剂的化妆品组合物中的各物质可以有效的经皮渗透吸收,具有良好的抗紫外线辐射、美白祛斑、保湿锁水以及改善皮肤屏障的作用；本发明的精华液,能有效经皮渗透吸收,具有明显的美白功效,可以有效减低皮肤中黑色素的含量,祛除色斑,提升肌肤的锁水能力,改善皮肤暗沉发黄；本发明精华液的制备方法,步骤简单,操作简单,形成的精华液质地清透润泽。(The penetration enhancer in the cosmetic composition containing the penetration enhancer can effectively promote the absorption of effective active substances, so that all substances in the cosmetic composition containing the penetration enhancer can be effectively absorbed through skin penetration, and the cosmetic composition has good effects of resisting ultraviolet radiation, whitening, removing freckles, moisturizing, locking water and improving skin barrier; the essence disclosed by the invention can be effectively absorbed through skin penetration, has an obvious whitening effect, and can effectively reduce the content of melanin in skin, dispel color spots, improve the water locking capacity of the skin and improve the dark and yellow skin; the preparation method of the essence disclosed by the invention is simple in steps and operation, and the formed essence is clear and moist in texture.)

1. The cosmetic composition containing the penetration enhancer is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by weight:

0.01-10 parts of Hywhite;

0.01-10 parts of glabridin;

0.01-10 parts of tea fermentation product filtrate;

0.01-10 parts of vitamin C ethyl ether;

0.01-10 parts of a penetration enhancer.

2. The penetration enhancer-containing cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the Hywhite comprises 75 to 95 parts by weight of sodium hyaluronate and 5 to 25 parts by weight of alpha-linolenic acid.

3. The penetration enhancer-containing cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the glabridin is encapsulated with cyclodextrin, and the content of the glabrous effective ingredient licorice root extract is more than 40%.

4. The penetration enhancer-containing cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the tea fermentation product filtrate is at least one of a green tea fermentation product filtrate and a white tea fermentation product filtrate.

5. The cosmetic composition containing a penetration enhancer as claimed in claim 1, wherein the penetration enhancer is bis-diethoxydiethylene glycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate.

6. An essence comprising the permeation enhancer-containing cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the composition comprises, by mass:

and (2) component A:

0.01-2% of polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6;

0.01-2% Simulgel NS；

0.01-1% EDTA-2Na；

0.1-5% panthenol;

0.1-10% glycerol;

0.1-10% glyceryl polyether-26;

0.01-2% hyaluronic acid;

0.01-2% xanthan gum;

0.1-1% of p-hydroxyacetophenone;

0.1-5% 1, 2-hexanediol;

0.1-5% hydrogenated lecithin;

the balance of deionized water;

and (B) component:

1-10% polydimethylsiloxane;

0.1-5% hydrogenated polyisobutene;

0.05-2% bisabolol;

0.05-2% polysorbate-60;

and (3) component C:

0.1-2% symcalm；

0.1-1% phenoxyethanol;

1-10% niacinamide;

0.01-5% of tender factor;

0.1-2% SIMULGEL EG；

0.01-1% sodium metabisulfite;

0.01-1% citric acid;

0.01-1% sodium citrate;

0.1-5% inositol;

0.005-1% of essence;

0.01-20% of cosmetic composition containing penetration enhancer.

7. The essence of claim 6, wherein the Simulgel NS is a mixed raw material of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, polysorbate-60 and sorbitan isostearate.

8. The essence of claim 6, wherein sym calm is a mixed raw material of 1, 2-pentanediol, butanediol and hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid.

9. The essence of claim 6, wherein the SIMULGEL EG is a mixture of sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, isohexadecane, polysorbate-80 and sorbitan oleate.

10. The preparation method is used for preparing the essence of any one of claims 6 to 9, and is characterized by comprising the following steps of:

s1, adding polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6, (hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, polysorbate-60 and sorbitan isostearate) and deionized water in a formula amount into a vacuum stirring pot, homogenizing for 1-5min, and stirring for 3-8 min;

s2, adding EDTA-2Na, panthenol, glycerol, glyceryl polyether-26, hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1, 2-hexanediol and hydrogenated lecithin in a formula amount into a vacuum stirring pot, heating to 75-85 ℃, and completely dissolving to obtain a phase A;

s3, adding polydimethylsiloxane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, bisabolol and polysorbate-60 in formula amount into an oil phase pot, heating to 75-85 ℃ and dissolving completely to obtain phase B;

s4, pumping the phase B into a vacuum stirring pot under the stirring condition, uniformly mixing at the stirring speed of 20-50rpm for 8-12 min;

s5, vacuum degassing for 1-10 min;

s6, reducing the stirring speed, and cooling to reduce the temperature, wherein the stirring speed is 10-20 rpm;

s7, when the temperature is reduced to 40-50 ℃, adding the phase C, homogenizing for 2-3 min, then stirring for 4-7 min, and mixing uniformly;

and S8, discharging, standing, filling and packaging.

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a cosmetic composition containing a penetration enhancer, essence and a preparation method of the cosmetic composition.

Background

Cosmetics, especially skin care products, are mainly spread on the surface of human skin in a smearing mode to achieve the effects of cleaning, maintaining and beautifying, but in order to avoid exogenous molecules which can cause danger to the body, the stratum corneum of the skin forms a strong barrier, and the skin stratum corneum of the body is prevented from permeating through the skin by most exogenous substances while protecting the body, so that the effective ingredients in a plurality of cosmetics are lost and cannot be fully utilized.

In order to achieve the purposes of whitening and removing freckles, the main method is to inhibit the generation of melanin and eliminate the melanin, wherein the synthesis and elimination of the skin melanin mainly comprise the following steps: the extraction and distribution of tyrosine, the synthesis of tyrosinase and the storage of melanin by active melanocytes, the transfer of melanin granules to keratinocyte through dendrite of melanocytes, the melanin granules in the keratinocyte move along with epidermal cells, one part of the melanin granules are discharged along with the falling of a stratum corneum, the other part of the melanin granules are precipitated on a bottom layer, the metabolism is slow and cannot be discharged, color spots are formed, and the generation of skin melanin is caused by various reasons, such as ultraviolet rays, waste gas, active oxygen, endocrine, dietary habits and the like.

In view of the above, there is a need to provide a cosmetic composition and an essence containing a penetration enhancer, and a preparation method thereof, which can solve the problems that active ingredients in cosmetics are largely lost and cannot be fully utilized in a percutaneous penetration process, and pores are easily blocked, skin is not breathable, and allergy is easily caused in a method for reducing skin melanin deposition.

Disclosure of Invention

The cosmetic composition containing the penetration enhancer comprises the following components in parts by weight:

0.01-10 parts of Hywhite;

0.01-10 parts of glabridin;

0.01-10 parts of tea fermentation product filtrate;

0.01-10 parts of vitamin C ethyl ether;

0.01-10 parts of a penetration enhancer.

In one embodiment, the Hywhite comprises 75-95 parts by weight of sodium hyaluronate and 5-25 parts by weight of alpha-linolenic acid.

In one embodiment, the glabridin is encapsulated with cyclodextrin, and the content of the glabrous greenbrier rhizome extract of the effective substance is more than 40%.

In one embodiment, the tea fermentation product filtrate is at least one of a green tea fermentation product filtrate, a white tea fermentation product filtrate.

In one embodiment, the penetration enhancer is bis-diethoxydiethylene glycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate.

The essence comprises the following components in percentage by mass:

and (2) component A: 0.01-2% of polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6; 0.01-2% Simulgel NS; 0.01-1% EDTA-2 Na; 0.1-5% panthenol; 0.1-10% glycerol; 0.1-10% glyceryl polyether-26; 0.01-2% hyaluronic acid; 0.01-2% xanthan gum; 0.1-1% of p-hydroxyacetophenone; 0.1-5% 1, 2-hexanediol; 0.1-5% hydrogenated lecithin; the balance of deionized water;

and (B) component: 1-10% polydimethylsiloxane; 0.1-5% hydrogenated polyisobutene; 0.05-2% bisabolol; 0.05-2% polysorbate-60;

component C is 0.1-2% sym calm; 0.1-1% phenoxyethanol; 1-10% niacinamide; 0.01-5% of tender factor; 0.1-2% SIMULGEL EG; 0.01-1% sodium metabisulfite; 0.01-1% citric acid; 0.01-1% sodium citrate; 0.1-5% inositol; 0.005-1% of essence; 0.01-20% of cosmetic composition containing penetration enhancer.

In one embodiment, the Simulgel NS is a mixed raw material of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, polysorbate-60 and sorbitan isostearate.

In one embodiment, sym calm is a mixture of 1, 2-pentanediol, butanediol, and hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid.

In one embodiment, the SIMULGEL EG is a mixture of sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, isohexadecane, polysorbate-80 and sorbitan oleate.

The preparation method provided by the invention is used for preparing the essence, and comprises the following steps:

s1, adding polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6, (hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, polysorbate-60 and sorbitan isostearate) and deionized water in a formula amount into a vacuum stirring pot, homogenizing for 1-5min, and stirring for 3-8 min;

s2, adding EDTA-2Na, panthenol, glycerol, glyceryl polyether-26, hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1, 2-hexanediol and hydrogenated lecithin in a formula amount into a vacuum stirring pot, heating to 75-85 ℃, and completely dissolving to obtain a phase A;

s3, adding polydimethylsiloxane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, bisabolol and polysorbate-60 in formula amount into an oil phase pot, heating to 75-85 ℃ and dissolving completely to obtain phase B;

s4, pumping the phase B into a vacuum stirring pot under the stirring condition, uniformly mixing at the stirring speed of 20-50rpm for 8-12 min;

s5, vacuum degassing for 1-10 min;

s6, reducing the stirring speed, and cooling to reduce the temperature, wherein the stirring speed is 10-20 rpm;

s7, when the temperature is reduced to 40-50 ℃, adding the phase C, homogenizing for 2-3 min, then stirring for 4-7 min, and mixing uniformly;

and S8, discharging, standing, filling and packaging.

The beneficial effects are as follows:

1. the penetration enhancer in the cosmetic composition containing the penetration enhancer can effectively promote the absorption of effective active substances, so that all substances in the cosmetic composition containing the penetration enhancer can be effectively absorbed through skin penetration, and the cosmetic composition has good effects of resisting ultraviolet radiation, whitening, removing freckles, moisturizing, locking water and improving skin barrier;

2. the essence disclosed by the invention can be effectively absorbed through skin penetration, has an obvious whitening effect, and can effectively reduce the content of melanin in skin, dispel color spots, improve the water locking capacity of the skin and improve the dark and yellow skin;

3. the preparation method of the essence disclosed by the invention is simple in steps and operation, and the formed essence is clear and moist in texture.

Detailed Description

The embodiments in the description are only for illustrating the present invention and do not limit the scope of the present invention. The scope of the present invention is defined only by the appended claims, and any omissions, substitutions, or modifications made based on the embodiments disclosed herein will fall within the scope of the present invention.

The disclosure may be understood more readily by reference to the following detailed description of preferred embodiments of the invention and the examples included therein. Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs. In case of conflict, the present specification, including definitions, will control.

The term "prepared from …" as used herein is synonymous with "comprising". The terms "comprises," "comprising," "includes," "including," "has," "having," "contains," "containing," or any other variation thereof, as used herein, are intended to cover a non-exclusive inclusion. For example, a composition, process, method, article, or apparatus that comprises a list of elements is not necessarily limited to only those elements but may include other elements not expressly listed or inherent to such composition, process, method, article, or apparatus.

When an amount, concentration, or other value or parameter is expressed as a range, preferred range, or as a range of upper preferable values and lower preferable values, this is to be understood as specifically disclosing all ranges formed from any pair of any upper range limit or preferred value and any lower range limit or preferred value, regardless of whether ranges are separately disclosed. For example, when a range of "1 to 5" is disclosed, the described range should be interpreted to include the ranges "1 to 4", "1 to 3", "1 to 2 and 4 to 5", "1 to 3 and 5", and the like. When a range of values is described herein, unless otherwise stated, the range is intended to include the endpoints thereof and all integers and fractions within the range.

In addition, the indefinite articles "a" and "an" preceding an element or component of the invention are not intended to limit the number requirement (i.e., the number of occurrences) of the element or component. Thus, "a" or "an" should be read to include one or at least one, and the singular form of an element or component also includes the plural unless the stated number clearly indicates that the singular form is intended.

For the purpose of enhancing understanding of the present invention, the present invention will be further described in detail with reference to the following examples, which are provided for illustration only and are not to be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

The cosmetic composition containing the penetration enhancer comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.01-10 parts of Hywhite; 0.01-10 parts of glabridin; 0.01-10 parts of tea fermentation product filtrate; 0.01-10 parts of vitamin C ethyl ether; 0.01-10 parts of a penetration enhancer.

Specifically, the Hywhite has amphipathy and cell penetrating power, and can enter skin and melanocyte to play a role; glabridin has effects of resisting ultraviolet radiation and whitening skin; the tea fermentation product filtrate has effects of resisting oxidation, scavenging free radicals, inhibiting tyrosinase activity, and whitening skin; the vitamin C ethyl ether can improve the activity of skin cells and increase collagen; the penetration enhancer can effectively promote the absorption of effective active substances.

Thus, the cosmetic composition containing the penetration enhancer can effectively promote the absorption of effective active substances, so that various substances in the cosmetic composition containing the penetration enhancer can be effectively absorbed through skin penetration, and the cosmetic composition has good effects of resisting ultraviolet radiation, whitening, removing freckles, moisturizing, locking water and improving skin barrier.

The Hywhite comprises 75-95 parts by weight of sodium hyaluronate and 5-25 parts by weight of alpha-linolenic acid.

Hywhite is a substance prepared by chemically modifying low molecular weight sodium hyaluronate with alpha-linolenic acid, and can enter skin and melanocyte to exert efficacy.

Thus, the cosmetic composition containing the penetration enhancer is ensured to have good whitening, ultraviolet radiation resistance and freckle removing effects.

The glabridin is enveloped by cyclodextrin, and the content of the glabrous greenbrier rhizome extract of the effective substance is more than 40%.

The glabridin is enveloped by cyclodextrin with hydrophilic outer edge and hydrophobic inner cavity, so that the applicability of the formula and the targeted absorption of the skin on the glabridin can be improved.

Thus, the cosmetic composition containing the penetration enhancer is ensured to have good ultraviolet radiation resistance and whitening effect.

The tea fermentation product filtrate may be at least one of a green tea fermentation product filtrate and a white tea fermentation product filtrate.

The early preparation process of green tea and white tea is not fermented, and retains original components, so that it is suitable for fermenting and refining yeast or lactobacillus to obtain tea fermented product filtrate.

Thus, the cosmetic composition containing the penetration enhancer is ensured to have good tyrosinase activity inhibiting and whitening effects.

The penetration enhancer is bis-diethoxydiol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylic acid ester.

The bis-diethoxydiol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate has an amphiphilic structure, and can affect the layer structure of intercellular lipid and promote the penetration of water-soluble components.

In this way, effective transdermal absorption of the cosmetic composition containing the permeation enhancer is ensured.

The physicochemical properties of the various substances in the cosmetic composition containing a penetration enhancer are described in detail below:

the HyWhite is prepared by chemically modifying low-molecular-weight sodium hyaluronate with alpha-linolenic acid, has amphipathy and cell penetrating power, and can enter skin and melanocyte to exert effects; the alpha-linolenic acid is derived from plants, contains essential fatty acid which can not be synthesized by human body, and has the effects of inhibiting tyrosinase activity, stimulating protease to decompose tyrosinase, resisting oxidation and resisting inflammation.

Glabridin is an extract obtained from the root of Glycyrrhiza glabra, and is enveloped by cyclodextrin with hydrophilic outer edge and hydrophobic inner cavity, so that the applicability of the formula and the targeted absorption of the skin on the glabridin can be improved; glabridin has effects of resisting ultraviolet radiation, whitening skin, resisting inflammation, resisting oxidation, scavenging free radicals, etc.

The tea fermentation product filtrate, which may be a commercial product FT01 (from Angel yeast), may also be prepared by the following method: inoculating yeast or lactobacillus, fermenting at 20-30 deg.C with one or two of green tea and white tea as substrate, clarifying, filtering, and refining. The tea fermentation filtrate is rich in tea polyphenol, mineral substances, amino acids and other substances, and through microbial conversion, the tea polyphenol and ester catechin EGCG have stronger biological activity and higher content, and have the effects of resisting oxidation, removing free radicals, inhibiting tyrosinase activity, whitening and the like.

Vitamin C ethyl ether is a vitamin C derivative which is very stable in chemical substances, is a vitamin C derivative which is not discolored, and is an oleophylic and hydrophilic amphoteric substance, so that the vitamin C ethyl ether can easily enter a dermis layer through a horny layer and then is easily decomposed by biological enzymes in a body so as to exert the biological efficacy of the vitamin C, and the vitamin C is involved in the synthesis of collagen and has the effects of scavenging free radicals and resisting oxidation.

The essence comprises the following components in percentage by mass:

and (2) component A: 0.01-2% of polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6; 0.01-2% Simulgel NS; 0.01-1% EDTA-2 Na; 0.1-5% panthenol; 0.1-10% glycerol; 0.1-10% glyceryl polyether-26; 0.01-2% hyaluronic acid; 0.01-2% xanthan gum; 0.1-1% of p-hydroxyacetophenone; 0.1-5% 1, 2-hexanediol; 0.1-5% hydrogenated lecithin; the balance of deionized water;

and (B) component: 1-10% polydimethylsiloxane; 0.1-5% hydrogenated polyisobutene; 0.05-2% bisabolol; 0.05-2% polysorbate-60;

component C is 0.1-2% sym calm; 0.1-1% phenoxyethanol; 1-10% niacinamide; 0.01-5% of tender factor; 0.1-2% SIMULGEL EG; 0.01-1% sodium metabisulfite; 0.01-1% citric acid; 0.01-1% sodium citrate; 0.1-5% inositol; 0.005-1% of essence; 0.01-20% of cosmetic composition containing penetration enhancer.

The essence comprises active substances, an antioxidant, a humectant, an emulsifier, a penetration enhancer and the like, and the effects of part of components in the essence are specifically described as follows:

glyceryl polyether-26 is a glycerol adduct of 26 moles of ethylene oxide as a humectant, lubricant;

the hyaluronic acid has special water retention effect, can improve skin nutrition metabolism, makes skin tender and smooth, removes wrinkles, increases elasticity, prevents aging, and is a good transdermal absorption enhancer while retaining moisture;

the hydrogenated lecithin has good adaptability and permeability to skin, can increase the softness of the skin and thicken the stratum corneum, and has the function of repairing the skin barrier;

the polydimethylsiloxane and the hydrogenated polyisobutene have strong oxidation resistance and stability, are fresh and fine in texture and can be quickly absorbed by the skin;

the Simulgel NS is a mixed raw material of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, polysorbate-60 and sorbitan isostearate, wherein the hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer is a polymer formed by polymerizing hydroxyethyl acrylate and sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate;

sym calm is the mixed raw material of 1, 2-pentanediol, butanediol and hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid;

SIMULGEL EG is a mixed raw material of sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, isohexadecane, polysorbate-80 and sorbitan oleate, wherein the sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer is a copolymer formed by polymerizing sodium acrylate and sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate;

the tenderness factor comprises hydrolyzed yeast protein and semen Canavaliae extract, wherein the weight percentage content of hydrolyzed yeast protein is 30-60%; the content of semen Canavaliae extract is 40-70 wt%. Hydrolyzed yeast protein is one of the signal transduction pathways for the renewal and damage repair of skin keratinocytes; the carob seed extract is rich in amino acids and peptides, can promote hyaluronic acid expression, water filling and water regeneration, and can effectively improve skin hydration and skin luster for water channel and water sealing, so that the tenderness factor has the effects of restoring skin elasticity, tenderness and moisture retention.

Therefore, the essence can be effectively absorbed through skin penetration, has an obvious whitening effect, and can effectively reduce the content of melanin in the skin, dispel color spots, improve the water locking capacity of the skin and improve the dark and yellow skin.

The preparation method of the essence comprises the following steps: s1, adding polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6, (hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, polysorbate-60 and sorbitan isostearate) and deionized water in a formula amount into a vacuum stirring pot, homogenizing for 1-5min, and stirring for 3-8 min; s2, adding EDTA-2Na, panthenol, glycerol, glyceryl polyether-26, hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1, 2-hexanediol and hydrogenated lecithin in a formula amount into a vacuum stirring pot, heating to 75-85 ℃, and completely dissolving to obtain a phase A; s3, adding polydimethylsiloxane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, bisabolol and polysorbate-60 in formula amount into an oil phase pot, heating to 75-85 ℃ and dissolving completely to obtain phase B; s4, pumping the phase B into a vacuum stirring pot under the stirring condition, uniformly mixing at the stirring speed of 20-50rpm for 8-12 min; s5, vacuum degassing for 1-10 min; s6, reducing the stirring speed, and cooling to reduce the temperature, wherein the stirring speed is 10-20 rpm; s7, when the temperature is reduced to 40-50 ℃, adding the phase C, homogenizing for 2-3 min, then stirring for 4-7 min, and mixing uniformly; and S8, discharging, standing, filling and packaging.

Uniformly mixing and completely dissolving all substances in the phase A, uniformly mixing and completely dissolving all substances in the phase B, uniformly stirring and mixing the substances in the phase A and the phase B, finally adding all substances in the phase C into the mixture of the phase A and the phase B, uniformly stirring and mixing, discharging, standing, filling and packaging.

Therefore, the steps for preparing the essence are simple, the operation is simple, and the formed essence is clear and moist in texture.

Some specific examples are listed below, but it should be noted that the following examples are not exhaustive of all possible cases. And the materials used in the following examples are commercially available unless otherwise specified.