阅读说明：本技术 一种服装结构制版方法 (Clothing structure plate making method ) 是由 喻琳艳 于 2021-06-21 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明公开了一种服装结构制版方法,包括以下步骤：S1：前后片胸围测量制版,a.将人体胸围横截面分为三等分,产生A、B、C三点,分别过这三点作纵向分割,可以产生对应的服装平面制图,衣片结构为“三开身”上衣,前片和后片的胸围大各占胸围的1/3,将后片按C纵向分割为两部分,每片的胸围大占胸围的1/6。该服装结构制版方法,在不同位置均设置有对应的放松量,服装与人体之间总是保持一定的间隙,胸围需要一定的放松量,而放松量也不是平均分配到人体的各个部位,要根据人体的活动规律来分配,从而规避了传统的固定计算尺寸的弊端,使得生产的服装更贴合人体结构与舒适度。(The invention discloses a method for making a plate for a garment structure, which comprises the following steps: s1: the measuring plate of the chest circumference of the front piece and the back piece is used for plate making, a, the cross section of the chest circumference of a human body is divided into three equal parts to generate A, B, C points, the three points are respectively used for longitudinal division, corresponding garment plane drawing can be generated, the garment piece structure is a three-part coat, the chest circumferences of the front piece and the back piece respectively account for 1/3 of the chest circumference, the back piece is divided into two parts according to C, and the chest circumference of each piece accounts for 1/6 of the chest circumference. According to the method for making the plate of the garment structure, the corresponding release amounts are arranged at different positions, a certain gap is always kept between the garment and a human body, the bra needs a certain release amount, the release amounts are not evenly distributed to all parts of the human body, and the release amounts are distributed according to the activity rule of the human body, so that the defect of the traditional fixed calculation size is overcome, and the produced garment is more fit with the structure and the comfort level of the human body.)

1. A method for making a plate for a garment structure is characterized by comprising the following steps: the method comprises the following steps:

s1: plate making for measuring chest circumference of front and back pieces

a. Dividing the cross section of the chest circumference of a human body into three equal parts to generate A, B, C three points, and respectively performing longitudinal division by the three points to generate a corresponding garment plane drawing, wherein the garment piece structure is a three-part upper garment, the chest circumferences of the front piece and the rear piece respectively account for 1/3 of the chest circumference, and the rear piece is longitudinally divided into two parts according to C, and the chest circumference of each piece accounts for 1/6 of the chest circumference;

b. the cross section of the chest circumference of a human body is divided into four parts to generate A, B, C, D points, and the three points are respectively used for longitudinal division to generate a corresponding garment plane drawing, the garment piece structure is a 'four-body' upper garment, and the chest circumferences of the front piece and the rear piece respectively account for 1/4 of the chest circumference.

S2: plate making for measuring chest width, back width and armhole

a. The chest width, the back width and the armholes are designed according to the section shape of armpits of a human body through sampling measurement and data analysis of a normal human body, and the ratio of the occupied chest circumference is as follows:

the chest width is 18 percent of tight bust, the back width is 18 percent of tight bust, the armpit width is 14 percent of tight bust, the armpit depth is 13.7 percent of tight bust and the armpit circumference is 44.3 percent of tight bust

b. The chest circumference specification is that the calculation formula of the finished product size is as follows:

three-part upper garment:

front chest width: 1/6 chest circumference + 1.5-2 cm; back width: 1/6 chest circumference + 2-3 cm; depth of armhole: 1/6 chest circumference +2 cm;

and (4) assembling the quarto body:

front chest width: 1.5/10 bust +3 cm; the back is wide; 1.5/10 of bust +4 cm; depth of armhole: 1/10 chest circumference is + 8-10 cm;

(different styles, different wearing seasons, different fixed numbers for addition and subtraction)

S3: shoulder slope measurement plate making

a. The average shoulder inclination of the male is 19 degrees, wherein the shoulder inclination of the front garment piece is 20 degrees, and the shoulder inclination of the rear garment piece is 18 degrees; the average shoulder inclination of the female is 20 degrees, wherein 21 degrees are taken for the shoulder inclination of the front cut piece, and 19 degrees are taken for the shoulder inclination of the rear cut piece; (the difference between the front and rear shoulders is determined by the body type)

b. The common calculation formula:

front shoulder line falling: b/20; rear shoulder line: b/20-0.5-1 cm; the male is wider and the angle of the shoulder slope is reduced.

S4: collar measuring plate making

The shapes of the collars are different, the shapes and the sizes of the collars are different, the cross section of the root part of the neck is approximate to a peach shape, and the neck part is slightly inclined forwards (the inclination angle a is approximately equal to 17 degrees);

the neckline width of the front and the back garment pieces and the neckline depth of the front garment piece approximately account for 1/5 of the neckline (including the looseness), and the neckline depth of the back garment piece is approximately 1/3 of the neckline width (for the wearing and modeling requirements, the neckline of the front garment piece needs to be deeper);

s5: armhole arc length, sleeve hill depth and sleeve fertilizer measurement plate making

After the length (AH) of the armhole arc is determined, the length of the armhole arc is equal to the length of the armhole arc plus the eating vigor of the armhole;

when the structure is drawn, the sleeve is cut and reasonably matched by adopting an armhole oblique line, and the armhole oblique line is 1/2 of the arc length of an armhole, namely AH/2;

the relationship between the sleeve cap oblique line AC, the sleeve cap depth AB and the sleeve fertilizer BC is as follows: and determining one of the sleeve cap depth and the sleeve cap fertilizer after determining the sleeve cap oblique line AC, wherein the AC2 is AB2+ BC2, and the other one of the sleeve cap depth and the sleeve cap fertilizer is determined, wherein the sleeve cap depth is B/10+ fixed number, and the sleeve fertilizer is about B/5.

2. The method for making a plate of a garment structure according to claim 1, wherein: the chest width, the back width and the armholes are calculated according to the chest circumference of a human body, cannot be directly used for garment drawing, a certain gap is always kept between the garment and the human body, the chest circumference needs a certain loosening amount, the loosening amount is not evenly distributed to all parts of the human body, and the loosening amount needs to be distributed according to the activity rule of the human body.

3. The method for making a plate of a garment structure according to claim 1, wherein: the basis of the sleeve assembly is armholes of the coat body, namely the shape of the armholes of the coat body determines the shape of the sleeve mountains.

4. The method for making a plate of a garment structure according to claim 1, wherein: the deeper the sleeve mountains are, the smaller the sleeve fertilizer is, the more closely fitted the sleeves are, and the smaller the movement amount of the arms is; on the contrary, the shallower the sleeve mountains, the larger the sleeve fertilizer is, the looser the sleeves are, but the armhole parts have more allowance.

5. The method for making a plate of a garment structure according to claim 1, wherein: the size of the draught is determined according to factors such as the shape of the sleeves and the performance of the fabric, and is generally about 0-4 cm.

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of garment production, in particular to a method for making a pattern on a garment structure.

Background

Along with the continuous improvement of the living standard of people, the demand on clothes is also paid attention gradually, and the clothes structure plate making is a whole set of paper pattern or sample plate process which is favorable for cutting, sewing and after-finishing and meets the requirements of style, fabric, specification and dimension and process, and is the guarantee that the ready-made clothes processing enterprises carry out production with organization, planning, steps and quality and quantity guarantee, but the existing clothes structure plate making method has certain defects, such as the defects;

most of existing clothes structure plate making methods are used for plate making and drawing through corresponding size formulas, and due to the defect that the size is fixedly calculated, the produced clothes cannot fit with the human body structure, so that the production comfort of the produced clothes has certain defects, the produced cuffs are prone to position deviation, and further certain error exists.

In order to solve the problems, innovative design based on the original plate making method is urgently needed.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to provide a method for making a plate for a garment structure, which aims to solve the problems that most of the prior art is provided with a corresponding size formula to make a plate and draw, and the size is fixedly calculated, so that the produced garment cannot fit with the structure of a human body, the production comfort of the garment has a certain defect, the position of the produced cuffs is easy to deviate, and further certain error exists.

In order to achieve the purpose, the invention provides the following technical scheme: a method for making a plate for a garment structure comprises the following steps:

s1: plate making for measuring chest circumference of front and back pieces

a. Dividing the cross section of the chest circumference of a human body into three equal parts to generate A, B, C three points, and respectively performing longitudinal division by the three points to generate a corresponding garment plane drawing, wherein the garment piece structure is a three-part upper garment, the chest circumferences of the front piece and the rear piece respectively account for 1/3 of the chest circumference, and the rear piece is longitudinally divided into two parts according to C, and the chest circumference of each piece accounts for 1/6 of the chest circumference;

b. the cross section of the chest circumference of a human body is divided into four parts to generate A, B, C, D points, and the three points are respectively used for longitudinal division to generate a corresponding garment plane drawing, the garment piece structure is a 'four-body' upper garment, and the chest circumferences of the front piece and the rear piece respectively account for 1/4 of the chest circumference.

S2: plate making for measuring chest width, back width and armhole

a. The chest width, the back width and the armholes are designed according to the section shape of armpits of a human body through sampling measurement and data analysis of a normal human body, and the ratio of the occupied chest circumference is as follows:

the chest width is 18 percent of tight bust, the back width is 18 percent of tight bust, the armpit width is 14 percent of tight bust, the armpit depth is 13.7 percent of tight bust and the armpit circumference is 44.3 percent of tight bust

b. The chest circumference specification is that the calculation formula of the finished product size is as follows:

three-part upper garment:

front chest width: 1/6 chest circumference + 1.5-2 cm; back width: 1/6 chest circumference + 2-3 cm; depth of armhole: 1/6 chest circumference +2 cm;

and (4) assembling the quarto body:

front chest width: 1.5/10 bust +3 cm; the back is wide; 1.5/10 of bust +4 cm; depth of armhole: 1/10 chest circumference is + 8-10 cm;

(different styles, different wearing seasons, different fixed numbers for addition and subtraction)

S3: shoulder slope measurement plate making

a. The average shoulder inclination of male is 19 deg., wherein the shoulder inclination of the front part is 20 deg., and the shoulder inclination of the rear part is 18 deg

(iv) DEG; the average female shoulder inclination is 20 °, 21 ° for the front part, 19 ° for the rear part

(iv) DEG; (the difference between the front and rear shoulders is determined by the body type)

b. The common calculation formula:

front shoulder line falling: b/20; rear shoulder line: b/20-0.5-1 cm; the male is wider and the angle of the shoulder slope is reduced.

S4: collar measuring plate making

The shapes of the collars are different, the shapes and the sizes of the collars are different, the cross section of the root part of the neck is approximate to a peach shape, and the neck part is slightly inclined forwards (the inclination angle a is approximately equal to 17 degrees);

the neckline width of the front and the back garment pieces and the neckline depth of the front garment piece approximately account for 1/5 of the neckline (including the looseness), and the neckline depth of the back garment piece is approximately 1/3 of the neckline width (for the wearing and modeling requirements, the neckline of the front garment piece needs to be deeper);

s5: armhole arc length, sleeve hill depth and sleeve fertilizer measurement plate making

After the length (AH) of the armhole arc is determined, the length of the armhole arc is equal to the length of the armhole arc plus the eating vigor of the armhole;

when the structure is drawn, the sleeve is cut and reasonably matched by adopting an armhole oblique line, and the armhole oblique line is 1/2 of the arc length of an armhole, namely AH/2;

the relationship between the sleeve cap oblique line AC, the sleeve cap depth AB and the sleeve fertilizer BC is as follows: and determining one of the sleeve cap depth and the sleeve cap fertilizer after determining the sleeve cap oblique line AC, wherein the AC2 is AB2+ BC2, and the other one of the sleeve cap depth and the sleeve cap fertilizer is determined, wherein the sleeve cap depth is B/10+ fixed number, and the sleeve fertilizer is about B/5.

Preferably, the chest width, the back width and the armholes are calculated according to the bust circumference of the human body, the chest width, the back width and the armholes cannot be directly used for garment drawing, a certain gap is always kept between the garment and the human body, the bust circumference needs a certain loosening amount, the loosening amount is not evenly distributed to all parts of the human body, and the loosening amount needs to be distributed according to the activity rule of the human body.

Preferably, the sleeves are assembled according to armholes of the coat body, namely, the shapes of the armholes of the coat body determine the shapes of the armholes.

Preferably, the deeper the sleeve mountains are, the smaller the sleeve fat is, the more fit the sleeves are, and the smaller the movement amount of the arms is; on the contrary, the shallower the sleeve mountains, the larger the sleeve fertilizer is, the looser the sleeves are, but the armhole parts have more allowance.

Preferably, the amount of the draft is determined according to factors such as the shape of the sleeves and the performance of the fabric, and is generally about 0-4 cm.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that: the clothing structure plate making method;

1. corresponding loosening amounts are arranged at different positions, a certain gap is always kept between the clothes and the human body, the bra needs a certain loosening amount which is not evenly distributed to all parts of the human body and is distributed according to the activity rule of the human body, so that the defect of the traditional fixed calculation size is overcome, and the produced clothes are more fit with the structure and the comfort level of the human body;

2. the method has the advantages that the clothing plate making is carried out according to the body size, the body type is analyzed always according to the actual measurement data of a human body, one plate can be in place, particularly, the front garment piece and the rear garment piece have few errors, the sleeves cannot be moved, the plate making can be carried out universally under the condition that the style is not changed, and the production range of the scheme is widened.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of a three-part front and back sheet bust plate making structure according to the present invention;

FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram of a structure of a front and back quarto bra panel of the invention;

FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram of a plate making structure of chest width, back width and armhole of the present invention;

FIG. 4 is a schematic diagram of a collar plate making structure according to the present invention;

FIG. 5 is a schematic diagram of the armhole arc length, the sleeve depth and the armhole plate making structure of the present invention.

Detailed Description

The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below with reference to the drawings in the embodiments of the present invention, and it is obvious that the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all of the embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.

Referring to fig. 1-5, the present invention provides a technical solution: a method for making a plate for a garment structure comprises the following steps:

the first embodiment is as follows:

s1: plate making for measuring chest circumference of front and back pieces

Dividing the cross section of the chest circumference of a human body into three equal parts to generate A, B, C three points, and respectively performing longitudinal division by the three points to generate a corresponding garment plane drawing, wherein the garment piece structure is a three-part upper garment, the chest circumferences of the front piece and the rear piece respectively account for 1/3 of the chest circumference, and the rear piece is longitudinally divided into two parts according to C, and the chest circumference of each piece accounts for 1/6 of the chest circumference; (as shown in FIG. 1)

S2: plate making for measuring chest width, back width and armhole

a. The chest width, the back width and the armholes are designed according to the section shape of armpits of a human body through sampling measurement and data analysis of a normal human body, and the ratio of the occupied chest circumference is as follows:

the chest width is 18 percent of tight bust, the back width is 18 percent of tight bust, the armpit width is 14 percent of tight bust, the armpit depth is 13.7 percent of tight bust and the armpit circumference is 44.3 percent of tight bust

b. The chest circumference specification is that the calculation formula of the finished product size is as follows:

three-part upper garment:

front chest width: 1/6 chest circumference + 1.5-2 cm; back width: 1/6 chest circumference + 2-3 cm; depth of armhole: 1/6 chest circumference +2 cm;

(different styles, different wearing seasons, and different fixed numbers) (as shown in FIG. 3)

S3: shoulder slope measurement plate making

a. The average shoulder inclination of male is 19 deg., wherein the shoulder inclination of the front part is 20 deg., and the shoulder inclination of the rear part is 18 deg

(iv) DEG; the average female shoulder inclination is 20 °, 21 ° for the front part, 19 ° for the rear part

(iv) DEG; (the difference between the front and rear shoulders is determined by the body type)

b. The common calculation formula:

front shoulder line falling: b/20; rear shoulder line: b/20-0.5-1 cm; the male is wider and the angle of the shoulder slope is reduced.

(as shown in FIG. 4)

S4: collar measuring plate making

The shapes of the collars are different, the shapes and the sizes of the collars are different, the cross section of the root part of the neck is approximate to a peach shape, and the neck part is slightly inclined forwards (the inclination angle a is approximately equal to 17 degrees);

the neckline width of the front and the back garment pieces and the neckline depth of the front garment piece approximately account for 1/5 of the neckline (including the looseness), and the neckline depth of the back garment piece is approximately 1/3 of the neckline width (for the wearing and modeling requirements, the neckline of the front garment piece needs to be deeper); (as shown in FIG. 4)

S5: armhole arc length, sleeve hill depth and sleeve fertilizer measurement plate making

After the length (AH) of the armhole arc is determined, the length of the armhole arc is equal to the length of the armhole arc plus the eating vigor of the armhole;

when the structure is drawn, the sleeve is cut and reasonably matched by adopting an armhole oblique line, and the armhole oblique line is 1/2 of the arc length of an armhole, namely AH/2;

the relationship between the sleeve cap oblique line AC, the sleeve cap depth AB and the sleeve fertilizer BC is as follows: and determining one of the sleeve cap depth and the sleeve cap fertilizer after determining the sleeve cap oblique line AC, wherein the AC2 is AB2+ BC2, and the other one of the sleeve cap depth and the sleeve cap fertilizer is determined, wherein the sleeve cap depth is B/10+ fixed number, and the sleeve fertilizer is about B/5. (as shown in FIG. 5)

The chest width, the back width and the armholes are calculated according to the chest circumference of a human body, can not be directly used for garment drawing, a certain gap is always kept between the garment and the human body, the chest circumference needs a certain loosening amount, the loosening amount is not evenly distributed to all parts of the human body, and the loosening amount needs to be distributed according to the activity rule of the human body.

The basis of sleeve assembly is armholes of the coat body, namely the shape of the armholes of the coat body determines the shape of the sleeve tops.

The deeper the sleeve mountains are, the smaller the sleeve fertilizer is, the more the sleeves fit closely, and the less the movement of the arms is; on the contrary, the shallower the sleeve mountains, the larger the sleeve fertilizer is, the looser the sleeves are, but the armhole parts have more allowance.

The amount of the draught is determined according to factors such as the shape of the sleeves and the performance of the fabric, and is generally about 0-4 cm.

Example two:

s1: plate making for measuring chest circumference of front and back pieces

The cross section of the chest circumference of a human body is divided into four parts to generate A, B, C, D points, and the three points are respectively used for longitudinal division to generate a corresponding garment plane drawing, the garment piece structure is a 'four-body' upper garment, and the chest circumferences of the front piece and the rear piece respectively account for 1/4 of the chest circumference. (as shown in FIG. 2)

S2: plate making for measuring chest width, back width and armhole

a. The chest width, the back width and the armholes are designed according to the section shape of armpits of a human body through sampling measurement and data analysis of a normal human body, and the ratio of the occupied chest circumference is as follows:

the chest width is 18 percent of tight bust, the back width is 18 percent of tight bust, the armpit width is 14 percent of tight bust, the armpit depth is 13.7 percent of tight bust and the armpit circumference is 44.3 percent of tight bust

b. The chest circumference specification is that the calculation formula of the finished product size is as follows:

and (4) assembling the quarto body:

front chest width: 1.5/10 bust +3 cm; the back is wide; 1.5/10 of bust +4 cm; depth of armhole: 1/10 chest circumference is + 8-10 cm;

(different styles, different wearing seasons, and different fixed numbers) (as shown in FIG. 3)

S3: shoulder slope measurement plate making

a. The average shoulder inclination of male is 19 deg., wherein the shoulder inclination of the front part is 20 deg., and the shoulder inclination of the rear part is 18 deg

(iv) DEG; the average female shoulder inclination is 20 °, 21 ° for the front part, 19 ° for the rear part

(iv) DEG; (the difference between the front and rear shoulders is determined by the body type)

b. The common calculation formula:

front shoulder line falling: b/20; rear shoulder line: b/20-0.5-1 cm; the male is wider and the angle of the shoulder slope is reduced.

(as shown in FIG. 4)

S4: collar measuring plate making

The shapes of the collars are different, the shapes and the sizes of the collars are different, the cross section of the root part of the neck is approximate to a peach shape, and the neck part is slightly inclined forwards (the inclination angle a is approximately equal to 17 degrees);

the neckline width of the front and the back garment pieces and the neckline depth of the front garment piece approximately account for 1/5 of the neckline (including the looseness), and the neckline depth of the back garment piece is approximately 1/3 of the neckline width (for the wearing and modeling requirements, the neckline of the front garment piece needs to be deeper); (as shown in FIG. 4)

S5: armhole arc length, sleeve hill depth and sleeve fertilizer measurement plate making

After the length (AH) of the armhole arc is determined, the length of the armhole arc is equal to the length of the armhole arc plus the eating vigor of the armhole;

when the structure is drawn, the sleeve is cut and reasonably matched by adopting an armhole oblique line, and the armhole oblique line is 1/2 of the arc length of an armhole, namely AH/2;

the relationship between the sleeve cap oblique line AC, the sleeve cap depth AB and the sleeve fertilizer BC is as follows: AC2 is AB2+ BC2, after determining the slope AC of the sleeve cap, one of the sleeve cap depth and the sleeve cap fat is determined, the other is obtained, the sleeve cap depth is B/10+ fixed number, the sleeve cap fat is about B/5 (as shown in figure 5)

Those not described in detail in this specification are within the skill of the art.

Although embodiments of the present invention have been shown and described, it will be appreciated by those skilled in the art that changes, modifications, substitutions and alterations can be made in these embodiments without departing from the principles and spirit of the invention, the scope of which is defined in the appended claims and their equivalents.