阅读说明：本技术 一种制作服装胸部风琴褶结构的方法 (Method for manufacturing chest organ pleat structure of clothes ) 是由 王淑华 于 2020-05-14 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明公开一种制作服装胸部风琴褶结构的方法,按以下步骤进行,确定立体褶方向,计算褶的大小、角度,画线,裁断,折叠,切展,重新拼合,形成转折,最后塑造成型,新风琴褶外观呈几何转折立面,平面与立体可衔接转换,且转折面的角度可依据服装轮廓和结构进行调节,在服装上形成立体的抽象的装饰视觉效果,塑造出褶的结构更具艺术感,造型更具空间感与未来感。(The invention discloses a method for manufacturing a chest organ pleat structure of clothes, which comprises the following steps of determining the direction of a three-dimensional pleat, calculating the size and the angle of the pleat, drawing a line, cutting, folding, cutting, unfolding, splicing again to form a turn, finally molding and forming, wherein the appearance of the new organ pleat is a geometric turn vertical surface, the plane and the three-dimensional can be connected and converted, the angle of the turn surface can be adjusted according to the outline and the structure of the clothes, a three-dimensional abstract decorative visual effect is formed on the clothes, the molded pleat structure has more artistic feeling, and the molding has more spatial feeling and future feeling.)

1. A method of making a breast accordion pleat structure of a garment, comprising the steps of:

step 1: determining the direction of organ folds, and sticking a modeling line on the chest position by using a black marking line on the mannequin;

step 2, calculating the size and the angle of the fold, developing the modeling on the mannequin by using copy paper, designing the fold in the outline and drawing a design draft;

and step 3: covering parchment paper on a design draft, expanding 2 folds at the upper end of an organ fold according to the design draft, expanding the rest folds according to the thickness of the required organ fold, cutting the rest folds along the central line, and folding the thickness of the organ fold;

and 4, step 4: fixing a paper pattern made of parchment paper on grey cloth to develop an organ pleat integral shape, and leaving seams at the inner side and the outer side edge;

and 5: folding the cut sample supplementing sheets along the center line, and sewing the back side according to a sample cleaning line;

step 6: cutting a notch at a positioning point at the position of a fold at the edge of the accordion pleat;

and 7: making another accordion pleat according to the above steps;

and 8: and sewing two prepared organ pleats according to the net sample lines.

2. The method for making the chest accordion structure of the garment as claimed in claim 1, wherein in step 4, the distance of the inner seam is 0.2cm or 0.3cm and the distance of the outer seam is 1 cm.

3. The method for making the organ pleat structure on the chest of the clothes as claimed in claim 1, wherein the organ pleat sewing is performed with the light refraction smoothing of the front surface of the edge and the burr removing treatment of the sewing position.

4. The method for making the accordion pleat structure of the chest of the garment as claimed in claim 1, wherein the accordion pleats are formed by sewing and ironing to make the pleats three-dimensional.

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of garment manufacturing, in particular to a method for manufacturing a chest organ pleat structure of a garment.

Background

The common accordion pleat has single modeling and more linear modeling, has limitation to the three-dimensional modeling of some innovative clothing design works, and has the following specific performances:

1. the clothes are monotonous in shape, basic shape elements are straight lines, and turning change of angles cannot be finished;

2. the visual effect is flat, the rich visual perception effect can not be completed, and the shapes with geometric, three-dimensional and multi-angle turning can not be realized, and the rich and variable space sense is lacked.

3. Straight line thinking can hinder designers from exploring rich and varied creative three-dimensional garment shapes.

Disclosure of Invention

In order to solve the problems, the invention provides a method for manufacturing a chest organ pleat structure of clothes, which comprises the following steps of determining the direction of a three-dimensional pleat, calculating the size and the angle of the pleat, drawing a line, cutting, folding, cutting and unfolding, splicing again, forming a turn, and finally molding and forming.

In order to achieve the technical purpose and achieve the technical effect, the invention is realized by the following technical scheme: a method of making a breast accordion pleat structure of a garment comprising the steps of:

step 1: determining the direction of organ folds, and sticking a modeling line on the chest position by using a black marking line on the mannequin;

step 2, calculating the size and the angle of the fold, developing the modeling on the mannequin by using copy paper, designing the fold in the outline and drawing a design draft;

and step 3: covering parchment paper on a design draft, expanding 2 folds at the upper end of an organ fold according to the design draft, expanding the rest folds according to the thickness of the required organ fold, cutting the rest folds along the central line, and folding the thickness of the organ fold;

and 4, step 4: fixing a paper pattern made of parchment paper on grey cloth to develop an organ pleat integral shape, and leaving seams at the inner side and the outer side edge;

and 5: folding the cut sample supplementing sheets along the center line, and sewing the back side according to a sample cleaning line;

step 6: cutting a notch at a positioning point at the position of a fold at the edge of the accordion pleat;

and 7: making another accordion pleat according to the above steps;

and 8: and sewing two prepared organ pleats according to the net sample lines.

Further, in step 4, the distance between the inner side seam and the outer side seam is 0.2cm or 0.3cm and 1 cm.

Further, after the accordion pleat is formed, the refraction smoothing of the front surface of the edge and the burr removing treatment of the seaming position are needed.

Furthermore, after the organ folds are sewn and molded, ironing can be adopted to make the folds three-dimensional.

The invention has the beneficial effects that:

the innovation of the stereo-modeling of the accordion pleat is mainly reflected in the following aspects:

1. the appearance of the accordion folds is a geometric turning vertical surface, and a plane and a solid can be connected and converted; the angle of the turning surface can be adjusted according to the outline and the structure of the garment;

2. forming a three-dimensional abstract decorative visual effect on the garment;

3. the modeling is originated from a Dike art form, is a classic decorative art, has the following characteristics: the structure of the formed pleat has more artistic sense, and the modeling has more space sense and future sense.

Drawings

Fig. 1 is a schematic view of the overall structure of the present invention.

Fig. 2 is a schematic diagram of the design of the present invention.

FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram of the clipping position in step 3 of the present invention.

Detailed Description

Preferred embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail below with reference to fig. 1-3, so that the advantages and features of the present invention can be more easily understood by those skilled in the art, and the scope of the present invention can be more clearly and clearly defined.

A method of making a breast accordion pleat structure of a garment, comprising the steps of:

step 1: determining the direction of organ folds, and sticking a modeling line on the chest position by using a black marking line on the mannequin;

step 2, calculating the size and the angle of the fold, developing the modeling on the mannequin by using copy paper, designing the fold in the outline and drawing a design draft;

and step 3: covering parchment paper on a design draft, expanding 2 folds at the upper end of an organ fold according to the design draft, expanding the rest folds according to the thickness of the required organ fold, cutting the rest folds along the central line, and folding the thickness of the organ fold;

and 4, step 4: fixing a paper pattern made of parchment paper on grey cloth to develop an organ pleat integral shape, and leaving seams at the inner side and the outer side edge;

and 5: folding the cut sample supplementing sheets along the center line, and sewing the back side according to a sample cleaning line;

step 6: cutting a notch at a positioning point at the position of a fold at the edge of the accordion pleat;

and 7: making another accordion pleat according to the above steps;

and 8: and sewing two prepared organ pleats according to the net sample lines.

The distance between the inner side seam and the outer side seam is 0.2cm or 0.3cm, the distance between the outer side seam and the outer side edge is 1cm, the refraction smoothing of the front side of the edge and the deburring of the sewing position are needed after the organ pleat is sewn and formed, and the pleat can be made to be three-dimensional by adopting an ironing mode after the organ pleat is sewn and formed.