阅读说明：本技术 用于掩饰色调瑕疵的化妆品组合物的阵列 (Array of cosmetic compositions for masking color defects ) 是由 托马斯·埃利奥特·拉比 珍妮特·维拉洛博斯林戈斯 利塞特·D·朔尔施 蒂莫西·爱德华·诺兰 于 2018-06-14 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明提供了旨在以靶向方式掩饰人类皮肤上的瑕疵的化妆品组合物的阵列。该阵列包含两种或更多种不同的化妆品组合物,每种化妆品组合物均具有金属氧化物。不同的化妆品组合物各自具有在约60至约90范围内的L*值。此外,如果来自阵列的化妆品组合物中的一种或多种具有介于35和75之间的平均皮肤L*值,则它们将有效地掩饰消费者皮肤上的瑕疵。(The present invention provides an array of cosmetic compositions intended to mask in a targeted manner imperfections on human skin. The array comprises two or more different cosmetic compositions, each cosmetic composition having a metal oxide. The different cosmetic compositions each have a value of L in the range of about 60 to about 90. Furthermore, if one or more of the cosmetic compositions from the array have an average skin L value between 35 and 75, they will effectively mask imperfections on the consumer's skin.)

1. An array of cosmetic compositions intended to mask in a targeted manner imperfections on human skin, said array of cosmetic compositions comprising:

a. two or more different cosmetic compositions, wherein each cosmetic composition comprises a metal oxide selected from the group consisting of zinc oxide, iron oxide, titanium oxide, and mixtures thereof;

b. wherein the two or more different cosmetic compositions each have a L value, wherein the L value of each of the cosmetic compositions is in the range of about 60 to about 90;

c. wherein if the consumer has an average skin L value of between 35 and 75, then one or more of the cosmetic compositions from the array will be effective to mask a blemish on the consumer's skin.

2. The array according to claim 1, wherein the L value of each of the cosmetic compositions is in the range of about 65 to about 85.

3. The array of claim 1 wherein the L value of each of the cosmetic compositions is in the range of about 65 to about 85, and wherein one or more of the cosmetic compositions from the array will be effective to mask imperfections on a consumer's skin if the consumer has an average skin L value between 35 and 75.

4. The array of claim 1, wherein the two or more different cosmetic compositions each have an opacity of at least 0.2.

5. The array of claim 1, wherein the two or more different cosmetic compositions each have an opacity of from about 0.2 to about 1.

6. The array of claim 1, wherein the two or more different cosmetic compositions each have an opacity of from 0.25 to about 1.0.

7. The array of claim 1, wherein the two or more different cosmetic compositions each have an opacity of from 0.3 to about 1.0.

8. The array according to claim 1, wherein the two or more different cosmetic compositions each have a C value, wherein the C value of each of the cosmetic compositions is in the range of about 15 to about 45.

9. The array according to claim 1, wherein the two or more different cosmetic compositions each have a C value, wherein the C value of each of the cosmetic compositions is in the range of about 20 to about 40.

10. The array according to claim 1, wherein the two or more different cosmetic compositions each have a h value, wherein the h value of each of the cosmetic compositions is in the range of about 50 to about 80.

11. The array of claim 1, wherein the metal oxide has a particle size of about 100nm to about 50 microns.

12. The array of claim 1, wherein the metal oxide has a particle size of about 200nm to about 10 microns.

13. The array of claim 1, wherein the array comprises from about two to about ten different cosmetic compositions.

14. The array of claim 1, wherein the array comprises from about three to about seven different cosmetic compositions.

15. The array of claim 1, wherein the array comprises four different cosmetic compositions.

Technical Field

The present patent application relates to an array of cosmetic compositions intended to mask tonal imperfections on keratinous surfaces, and more particularly, to an array of cosmetic compositions designed to hide skin imperfections across the entire global range of skin tones by using targeted precision deposition techniques and a very narrow range of shades when compared to existing cosmetic solutions.

Background

Cosmetic and skin care products designed to even out skin tone are commonplace. Examples of such products are cosmetic foundations, combined skin products and make-up products such as "BB" and "CC" creams, toning moisturizers, and the like. These products come in many different forms. These forms may include liquids, creams and gels, cream pressed powders, compacted and loose powders and aerosol sprays. These products are designed to even out skin tone by covering the blemish with a composition designed to match the user's skin tone. However, due to the wide range of human skin tones, multiple shades are needed to meet the needs of users of different ethnicities, ages and regions. The higher the opacity of the product, the more shades are needed in order for the product to be useful in a wide range of human skin tones. Lower opacity products such as "BB" and "CC" creams and toning moisturizers are typically sold in 3 to 5 different shades. Higher opacity products such as foundations are typically sold in 12 to 30 different shades.

In addition, the wider the coverage of blemishes provided by these conventional products, the less natural the skin appearance may become. This unnatural appearance can be caused by a variety of factors. First, government regulatory agencies worldwide have created a limited list of colorants approved for use on human skin. This list of approved colorants has fundamental limitations in how closely they can create a visible wavelength spectral reflectance distribution that exactly matches human skin. This forces the user to try to get as close to his skin tone as possible. However, the skin tone match is rarely close enough that the product does not appear visible on the skin. Second, conventional products are substantially monochromatic. Even the skin that appears to be the most perfect, flawless, still consists of multiple shades across the face. Thus, the higher the coverage of the underlying skin, the more monochromatic the skin may become, and the less natural it may look. A third reason for this unnatural appearance is that light is reflected from the bare skin surface in a manner that is comparable to the manner in which light is reflected from a colored film formed on the skin by the product. The skin has complex interactions with visible light innate. Part of the light is reflected from the upper layers of the stratum corneum, while part of the light passes through the stratum corneum into the epidermis and collagen layers and is then reflected out of the skin. Another portion of the light diffuses laterally through the collagen layer before being reflected out. In general, the amount of light reflected from beneath the skin surface can be correlated to a desirable skin attribute commonly referred to by consumers as "radiation". With current traditional skin night cream products, the more coverage and skin night creams they impart, the less light they are allowed to penetrate into the skin. This can create an unnatural visual effect, as more light will reflect off the pigmented film on the skin surface, resulting in a "flat" mannequin appearance.

In addition, current cosmetic compositions rely on color matching skin in an attempt to hide tonal skin imperfections. This results in two undesirable options. First, the cosmetic foundations available in the array are not an exact match for the consumer's skin tone, resulting in unsatisfactory results. Alternatively, an array of very large cosmetic foundations is provided, where it will be difficult for the consumer to find the correct match.

Thus, there remains a need for an array of cosmetic compositions that will effectively mask any consumer's tonal imperfections while presenting a fairly narrow range of options, making the selection process less cumbersome.

Disclosure of Invention

The present invention provides an array of cosmetic compositions intended to mask in a targeted manner imperfections on human skin. The array comprises two or more different cosmetic compositions, each cosmetic composition having a metal oxide. The metal oxide may be zinc oxide, iron oxide, titanium oxide or a mixture. The different cosmetic compositions each have a value of L in the range of about 60 to about 90. Furthermore, if one or more of the cosmetic compositions from the array have an average skin L value between 35 and 75, they will effectively mask imperfections on the consumer's skin.

In one embodiment, each of the cosmetic compositions has a value of L in the range of about 65 to about 85. In another embodiment, the L value of each of the cosmetic compositions is in a range of about 65 to about 85, and if the consumer has an average skin L value between 35 and 75, one or more of the cosmetic compositions from the array will be effective to mask blemishes on the consumer's skin.

In one embodiment, the two or more different cosmetic compositions each have an opacity of at least 0.2. In another embodiment, the two or more different cosmetic compositions each have an opacity of from about 0.2 to about 1. In yet another embodiment, the two or more different cosmetic compositions each have an opacity of from 0.25 to about 1.0. In one embodiment, the two or more different cosmetic compositions each have an opacity of from 0.3 to about 1.0.

In another embodiment, the two or more different cosmetic compositions each have a C value, and the C value of each of the cosmetic compositions is in the range of about 15 to about 45. In one embodiment, each of the cosmetic compositions has a C value in the range of about 20 to about 40.

In one embodiment, the two or more different cosmetic compositions each have an h value, and each of the cosmetic compositions has an h value in a range from about 50 to about 80.

In another embodiment, the metal oxide has a particle size of about 100nm to about 50 microns. In one embodiment, the metal oxide has a particle size of about 200nm to about 10 microns.

In one embodiment, the array comprises from about two to about ten different cosmetic compositions. In another embodiment, the array comprises from about three to about seven different cosmetic compositions. In one embodiment, the array comprises four different cosmetic compositions.

Drawings

While the specification concludes with claims particularly pointing out and distinctly claiming the present invention, it is believed that the present invention will be better understood from the following description when taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings, wherein:

FIG. 1 is a schematic illustration of an analysis window according to the present invention in which skin is analyzed by a deposition device useful in the present invention;

FIG. 2 is a deposition apparatus that may be used in the present invention;

FIG. 3 is a cartridge that may be used in the present invention;

FIG. 4 is a natural uncovered skin of a female user;

FIG. 5 is the same female user as in FIG. 4 having applied the cosmetic product; and

fig. 6 is the same female user as shown in fig. 4 after using the deposition device useful in the present invention without make-up.

Detailed Description

As used herein, "basal skin" refers to bare skin that is free of cosmetics, skin care products, or other compositions.

As used herein, "masking" refers to hiding or making color tone imperfections less visible by blending them seamlessly with the surrounding keratinous surface. The keratinous surface may be human skin and/or hair.

As used herein, "CIE (international commission on illumination) L C h" or "CIELCh" is a color space specified by the international commission on illumination. Which describes all colors visible to the human eye and is created to serve as a device independent model intended to be used as a reference. "L C h" refers to a well-known color model represented by the three-dimensional 1976CIE color space. L C h is a cylinder whose axis is defined by the dimensions of the luminance (L), chrominance (C) and chrominance (h) values. Unless otherwise stated, color values are reported in D65/10 ° lighting/observer.

As used herein, "chroma" refers to the quality of purity, intensity, or saturation of a color.

As used herein, "chroma value" (C) refers to a location in the CIELCh color space that ranges from 0, which is completely unsaturated (i.e., neutral gray, black, or white) at the center of the circle, to 100 or more, which is completely saturated at the edges of the circle. Colors with high chroma values are vivid, almost completely without white, while colors with low chroma values are dull, faded and pale in appearance.

As used herein, the term "effectively disguise" refers to disguising tonal flaws such that the tonal flaws are not perceptible to the human eye without the aid of a magnification device.

As used herein, "hue" refers to the color commonly referred to as hue, i.e., red, green, cyan, orange, and the like.

As used herein, "hue value" (h) refers to the position on the circular axis of an object that can be described in degrees (°) (or angle) in the CIELCh color space, ranging from 0 ° (red) through 90 ° (yellow), 180 ° (green), 270 ° (blue), and then back to 0 °.

As used herein, "brightness" is a representation of the perceived change in brightness of a color or color space.

As used herein, "luminance value" (L x) refers to the vertical position in the CIELCh color space, from 0 with no luminance (i.e., absolute black) at the bottom, through the middle 50, to 100 with maximum luminance (i.e., absolute white) at the top.

As used herein, "color" refers to the combination of values of L x C x h for a particular subject (e.g., skin or composition).

As used herein, "targeted deposition" refers to the delivery of a composition substantially only onto the tonal defect to correct and/or change the color of the tonal defect to match the surrounding keratinous surface.

As used herein, "tonal imperfections" refer to areas of a keratinous surface that are different in color from the surrounding keratinous surface, typically darker.

As used herein, the articles "a" and "an" are understood to mean one or more of the material claimed or described.

All weights, measurements, and concentrations herein are measured at 23 ℃ and 50% Relative Humidity (RH), unless otherwise specified.

All percentages, parts and ratios used herein are by weight of the total composition, unless otherwise specified. All such references to the weight of listed ingredients are based on the active level and, therefore, do not include solvents or by-products that may be included in commercially available materials, unless otherwise specified.

The present invention provides an array of cosmetic compositions designed to hide skin imperfections over the entire global range of skin tones by using targeted precision deposition techniques and narrow color ranges when compared to existing cosmetic solutions. The cosmetic compositions of the array are useful for users having a variety of skin lightness, chroma, and/or hue. In one aspect, precise deposition of a pigmented cosmetic composition comprising a particular set of values of L x C x h may produce skin that appears natural and flawless while still remaining substantially undetectable to the naked eye.

Embodiments of the present invention are included that produce a precise deposition of a cosmetic formulation that masks skin imperfections while appearing completely natural to the naked eye. The present invention is based on a fundamentally new type of deposition model that previous embodiments were unable to simulate. The first element of the new deposition model is that the product is placed precisely only on the flaw itself (i.e., "targeted deposition"). The percentage of surface area that is cosmetically targeted varies depending on the analytical method and the level of imperfections of the consumer, however, most consumers can obtain significant skin night creams by targeting and depositing onto less than 20% of the skin. This leaves over 80% of the skin bare, which significantly improves the natural appearance of the skin, as light is able to interact naturally with most skin without interference from cosmetic films. The second element of the new deposition model is that the cosmetic product itself is not intended to match the color of the consumer's skin. When placed precisely only over the blemish, the cosmetic product can be used to change the brightness and darkness of the blemish, rather than completely hiding the blemish. The visual color space is most accurately measured using a spectrometer capable of plotting the amount of reflectance over the visible spectral frequency of 400-700 nm. One mathematical representation of the spectral distribution is by using a color standard, such as the CIE LCh color space, which is designed to represent how the human eye sees the color. In the CIE LCh color standard, L is luminance, C is chromaticity (intensity of color), and h is hue angle (0-360). The blemishes are masked by precisely targeting and depositing an opaque product that is lighter in color than the background skin and boosting the brightness of the spot to match the average skin brightness. However, since the previous disclosures were made with a very small portion of the global skin tone population, only a narrow range of products was used. It is not understood that the LCh range of products will need to meet the overall global skin tone range. The present invention has identified a very specific LCh range for products needed to hide tonal skin imperfections for all consumers, making them appear invisible to the naked eye.

As already discussed, all current skin care and cosmetic products designed to hide skin imperfections are designed to have the LCh of the product match as closely as possible the LCh of the skin tone. Thus, the LCh range of the product matches the LCh range of global consumers. Thus, the range of shades of currently available products designed to hide imperfections is so large that shade selection is a very difficult task. The present inventors have found a solution to this problem.

All human skin is composed of identical building blocks forming its visual macroscopic colour: melanin, oxygenated hemoglobin, unoxidized hemoglobin, and collagen. These building blocks are combined together in a variety of ways to form different skin tones. It has been found that skin brightness or L using the CIE LCh color standard ranges from about 35-75 in all geographies and races, and human skin is also known to have h values of from about 30 to about 75 and C values of from about 5 to about 30. These building blocks are combined in various ways within different ethnic ages and geographical ranges.

As already discussed, the range of human skin tone has been studied in many research activities. The range of brightness provided is equally broad due to the current technology model of hiding skin imperfections common to all existing cosmetics. One of many examples would include an L' Oreal true match liquid form foundation with one of the largest color ranges of any commercial foundation product that provides 33 "true skin" colors. All LCh colour is measured using a dry under film rather than a wet product measurement, as a dry product represents the state of the product that will be present on the skin after application by the consumer and is therefore most relevant. Within this product range, the brightest color is W1 "porcelain" having a value of L of 79, a value of C of 21 and a value of h of 62. The darkest color in the product series was C10 "espresso", having a value of L of 32, a value of C of 12 and a value of h of 46. Thus, the L value range of the provided product closely matches the L value range of all human skin tones. Another example of a commercially available foundation is the "full coverage foundation" in the form of a Mac creamy compact that provides 16 shades and is referred to as a "foundation that is both water and abrasion resistant and has an opaque coverage". In this product series, the brightest product color was "NC 15" with an L value of 74, a C value of 20 and an h value of 61. The darkest shade in the product series was "NW 50" with a value of L of 40, C of 22 and h of 54. In another example of a commercially available cosmetic product intended to hide tonal blemishes is a lower coverage product range, such as the "BB Cream SPF 35" product family of Bobby Brown, which covers 9 shades. In this product series, the brightest shade is "ExtraLight" with an L value of 71, a C value of 23 and an h value of 60. The darkest shade in the product series is "Deep", which has a value of L of 38, C of 32 and h of 53. As has been shown in each of these examples, the color range of the cosmetic product is all designed to have a color range similar to that of human skin.

The present invention discloses product arrays applied via a precision targeted deposition method that applies cosmetics only to tonal imperfections and utilizes a range of shades that do not mirror the range of human skin tones. Since the product is applied precisely only to the hyperpigmented areas of the skin, it enables a novel method of correcting skin imperfections to be employed. The method applies a product that is significantly brighter than the skin in order to boost the brightness of the spot to match the brightness of the surrounding skin. The present invention has identified a range of product shades needed to correct defects across the global skin shade range. It has been surprisingly found that the range of product shades that best corrects the tonal imperfections of the entire human skin shade range is a much narrower range of shades than any current cosmetic product range.

As has been previously disclosed in US2015360016a1, there is a new method of correcting skin imperfections, especially hyperpigmentation, where you can deposit precisely a composition that is significantly brighter in color than the underlying skin. Previous disclosures of targeted deposition did not recognize that the role played by the chroma and hue of the applied composition over a wide range of skin tones would need to be to correct the blemishes in a manner that is macroscopically invisible to the unaided eye. The present invention relates to testing a variety of product shades and consumer skin color ranges and determining that there is a particular product LCh value range that best corrects consumers with a particular skin LCh range in order to make precisely targeted deposits invisible to the naked eye. Furthermore, it has been found that, unlike conventional cosmetic products, the range of shades is much narrower than the global range of skin tone.

It is well known that when using foundations or similar products, the shade and hue of human skin must be matched in order to obtain a natural skin appearance. It has surprisingly been found that it is not necessary to match the shade or L C h value of a pigmented cosmetic composition to the skin tone, but rather the shade of the composition is preferably adjusted according to the variable skin tone and imperfections using L C h values that do not attempt to match the underlying skin.

Targeted deposition techniques are known that accurately deposit compositions onto tonal imperfections in order to correct them. Such compositions may include higher L values than the underlying skin of the user. However, the maximum range of L values for compositions that can mask tonal imperfections over substantially the entire skin color range is not known. In addition, the role of C value of the composition in the correction of color tone defects is not known. In particular, the C value of the applied composition required to correct for tonal imperfections over a wide range of skin tones is unknown.

As skin color varies between different populations and/or ages, the maximum increment (Δ) L varies, which can be calculated as the average composition L value minus the average skin L value, which is tolerable (i.e., not visible to the naked eye but still covering the blemish). If Δ L is too high, the composition may be visible and may appear pale or whitish on the skin. This may occur on both dark and light skin colors.

It has now been found that a pigmented cosmetic composition comprising an average composition L value significantly greater than the average L value of the user can mask the tonal imperfections in a manner such that it is macroscopically invisible to the naked eye and can be used over a wide range of skin tones. In one aspect, the pigmented cosmetic composition may comprise an average composition L value of from about 10 to about 40 units, preferably from about 15 to about 35 units, and even more preferably from about 20 to about 35 units, above the average skin L value. In one aspect, the pigmented cosmetic composition may have an average composition L value that is at least 10 units greater than the average skin L value of the user, preferably at least 15 units greater, and even more preferably at least 20 units greater. The mean skin L value may be measured according to the LCh test method for skin described below. The average composition L value may be measured according to the LCh test method for compositions described below.

The pigmented cosmetic composition may further include a Δ C between the composition and the skin of the user of about 25 or less, alternatively less than about 20, alternatively less than about 18. The average Δ C may be calculated as the average composition C value minus the average skin C value of the user. As the average skin L value of the user decreases, the difference between the average cosmetic C value and the average skin C value should increase. In one aspect, Δ C may be from about 0 to about 14, or Δ C may be from about 0 to about 10, for light and/or medium skin tones (e.g., type I-IV of the faffield scale). In another aspect, Δ C may be from about 8 to about 21 for medium dark colors and/or dark skin colors (e.g., type V-VI of the fei scale). The mean skin C value may be measured according to the LCh test method for skin described below. The average composition C value may be measured according to the LCh test method for the compositions described below.

While not wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that this combination of lightness and chroma may be required due to the small amount of FD & C approved colorant list for human skin, limiting the use of pigmentary titanium dioxide in high opacity formulations. It has been found that titanium dioxide has a blue component which becomes more pronounced on darker skin tones, and therefore a higher chroma component is required to counteract the color shift on darker skin.

In one aspect, the colored cosmetic composition can comprise a plurality of shades, one having an average composition L value of from about 85 to about 80, another having an average composition L value of from about 79 to about 75, and another having an average composition L value of from about 74 to about 65.

In one aspect, the colored cosmetic composition may comprise a plurality of shades, one of which has an average composition C value of from about 40 to about 35, another of which has an average composition C value of from about 34 to about 30, and another of which has an average composition C value of from about 29 to about 20.

In one aspect, the colored cosmetic composition may comprise a plurality of shades, one having an average composition h value of from about 80 to about 70, another having an average composition h value of from about 69 to about 60, and another having an average composition h value of from about 59 to about 50. The average composition h values may be measured according to the LCh test method for compositions described below.

Any combination of opacifiers and colorants may be used to achieve the desired shade of the pigmented cosmetic composition. One skilled in the art will understand how to formulate a colored cosmetic composition using a range of pigments to achieve the desired L C h values. Inks, dyes, metal oxides, and pigments (hereinafter collectively referred to as "colorants") may be used to alter the color or reflectance of skin. Combinations of sunscreens and colorants should be used within a certain particle size and viscosity range that are effective for deposition on human skin.

In one aspect, a method of masking a tonal flaw may include the steps of:

a. identifying a user's skin tone including a tonal flaw;

b. instructing the user to select a coloring cosmetic composition suitable for masking the tonal flaws based on the user's skin color;

c. optionally providing a guide to the user, the guide allowing the user to select a coloring cosmetic composition, wherein the coloring cosmetic composition is available in different shades and the guide recommends a particular shade;

d. selecting a coloring cosmetic composition;

e. selectively targeting and depositing the selected colored cosmetic composition onto the color shade blemish;

wherein the pigmented cosmetic composition comprises an average composition L value of about 10 to about 40 units greater than the average skin L value of the user.

The skin tone of the user is identified by the LCh test method for skin, as described below, by the fei's scale, by comparing the user's skin to a Color target card that includes images and/or descriptions of different skin tones, by taking a picture of the user's skin and analyzing the skin tone, by measuring using a tool such as a Sephora Color IQ or ski Magic Ring, or other equivalent method. In one aspect, a user's skin tone may be identified based on ethnicity.

The fickian scale (also commonly referred to as the "Fitzpatrick skin typing test" or "Fitzpatrick photographic typing scale") is a numerical classification scheme developed by Thomas b. This is a method of estimating the response of different types of skin to Ultraviolet (UV) light based on reports from users regarding their skin's response to the sun (i.e., burning and tanning). The Fei's scale is a recognized tool for dermatological studies of human skin pigmentation. The following table shows six skin types on the fizeau scale. Scores were based on standard questions that assigned numbers to eyes, hair and skin tone, number of freckles, sensitivity to the sun (i.e., burning and tanning), and schedule of last exposure.

Type I (score 0-6) is always burning and never tan (pale white; blond or red hair; blue, grey eyes; freckles);

type II (score 7-13) usually burns with minimal tanning (white; light; gold, brown or red hair; blue, green or hazy eyes);

type III (fraction 14-20) is sometimes slightly burning, uniformly tan (milky white; pale yellow; commensurate with any hair color or brown eye);

type IV (fraction 21-27) gives little burning and is always very suntan (light brown; tan; dark brown to black hair);

form V (fraction 28-34) is very low burning and very tan (brown); and

type VI (score 35-36) never glowing, and is always tan (dark to dark brown to darkest brown, black skin color).

The type of the phenanthrene scale is known to correlate with L values for human skin tone. (see Lee, J.A., Osmanovic, S., Viewa, M.A.G., Kapur, R., Meghpara, B., & Edward, D.P. "Objective Measurement of peripheral navigation." Photoplastics, Photoisometry & Photomedicine,24.6(2008): 285-290). Average skin L values greater than about 55 may correspond to the fei scales type I to type IV. Average skin L values less than or equal to about 55 may correspond to the fei's scale types V and VI.

In one aspect, the user may be asked one or more questions to determine her skin type on the Fei's scale. In one aspect, a series of printed or numerically displayed shades calibrated to six Fei's scale types may be displayed to the user, and the user may be instructed to apply them to her own skin and pick the corresponding Fei's scale type that is closest to her own skin tone. In another aspect, the user may be queried as to which cosmetic shade she is currently using, and may be provided with a cross-reference guide that groups common cosmetic shades and brands with the corresponding closest Fei's scale type.

The user may be provided with instructions on how to select a shade of the colored cosmetic composition based on the user's skin tone. In one aspect, the indication may guide the user in selecting a particular colored cosmetic composition when the user has a particular skin tone or Fitzpatrick type. For example, if the user has Fitzpatrick type I-IV, the indication may guide the user in selecting a light color and/or a medium color. Alternatively, if the user has Fitzpatrick type V-VI, the indication may guide the user in selecting a medium dark color and/or a dark color shade. In one aspect, when the user has Fitzpatrick type I, II, III or IV skin, the pigmented cosmetic composition should have an average composition L value of from about 75 to about 85 and/or an average composition C value of from about 22 to about 39. In one aspect, when the user has Fitzpatrick type V or VI of skin, the pigmented cosmetic composition should have an average composition L value of from about 65 to about 74 and/or an average composition C value of from about 30 to about 40.

Guidance may be provided to assist the user or beauty advisor in selecting a coloring cosmetic composition that will best mask the color imperfections. The pigmented cosmetic compositions may be available in different shades, and the guidelines may recommend a particular shade that may be used with the deposition device. In one aspect, the pigmented cosmetic compositions may be presented in an array of four different shades that a user may use on all types of fizeau scales.

The guide may take the form of text, images, a color table on a brochure, a package, a storage shelf, an end cap, and/or a display that indicates to the user which color of the colored cosmetic composition should be selected based on her skin color. Alternatively, the guideline may be from a person working at a shop or beauty counter or a dermatologist, alternatively in the form of an example of a Fechsler scale type and corresponding shade matching a given Fitzpatrick type. In one aspect, the text or image may describe the race and guide the user to select a color shade based on his race.

The user may apply the selected pigmented cosmetic composition to the color imperfections using a deposition device. When placed over a color shade defect, a coloring cosmetic composition may be used to change the lightness, chroma, and/or hue of the color shade defect, rather than completely hiding the color shade defect. This method of masking the tonal imperfections is possible when the pigmented cosmetic composition is accurately and substantially deposited only on the tonal imperfections and has a very fine level of dosage variation. In one aspect, the pigmented cosmetic composition need not be deposited onto the entire face or body. It is believed that if a pigmented cosmetic composition is deposited on the surrounding skin rather than just the tonal imperfections, the skin will take on an off-white or white appearance. Thus, the deposition of the pigmented cosmetic composition is preferably delivered by a device that can meter out picoliters of the composition rather than the microliter amounts typically applied by conventional personal care applicators.

In one aspect, the deposition device can precisely target and deposit a color cosmetic composition onto the color imperfections. The pigmented cosmetic composition may be deposited onto the color shade blemish by any means so long as it targets the color shade blemish while leaving the surrounding skin substantially free of the pigmented cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the color cosmetic composition may be deposited onto the color shade blemish via a hand-deposited kit that assists the user in depositing substantially only a small amount of the color cosmetic composition onto the color shade blemish. In another aspect, the pigmented cosmetic composition can be deposited onto the tonal imperfections via a deposition device, such as by inkjet deposition such as thermal or piezo inkjet systems, using precision dabbing or stamping tools, atomized spray deposition, and combinations thereof in direct contact. Although many different types of automated applicators can be used, one preferred method of depositing the pigmented cosmetic composition is by ink jet deposition.

An exemplary deposition device may analyze skin tone imperfections and deposit a coloring cosmetic composition upon identifying the tone imperfections. In one aspect, the deposition device can collect at least one sheet of at least 10 μm²An image of the skin, and then an average background luminance of the image is calculated in gray scale (the luminance value of the gray scale is referred to herein as "L value"). In addition, local L values for a single pixel or a group of pixels may be calculated from the same image. The local L value can then be compared to the background L value to identify skin differences. The hue defect is the absolute value of the difference between the local L value and the background L (the difference is defined as "Δ L_M"or measured Δ L, which is generally defined as the sign of the difference between two values) is greater than a predetermined Δ L_S(where "S" refers to a set Δ L) area of skin. The background L may be predetermined or calculated by various methods described below. The tonal imperfections are then treated with a pigmented cosmetic composition having a predetermined or variable contrast ratio.

One feature of the pigmented cosmetic compositions of the present invention is the contrast ratio. When the pigmented cosmetic composition is deposited onto a surface such as skin, the contrast ratio of the pigmented cosmetic composition is preferably from 0.1 to 1.0, more preferably from 0.2 to 1.0, and most preferably from 0.3 to 1.0. Herein, "contrast ratio" refers to the opacity of the colored cosmetic composition of the present invention, or the ability of the composition to reduce or prevent light transmission, as determined after spreading the composition onto an opaque drawing board (Form N2A, Leneta Company (Manwah, NJ), or their equivalent), and by using a spectrophotometer, the setting chosen to exclude specular reflection. The composition was diluted with 1% Stabylen 30 in DI water premix at a ratio of 10: 1. The composition is applied to the top of an opaque drawing sheet and then stretched into a film having a thickness of about 0.01 inches using a film applicator such as that commercially available from BYK Gardner (Columbia, Maryland), or an equivalent thereof. The film was dried at 22 deg.C +/-1 deg.C at 1atm for 2 hours. Using a spectrophotometer, the Y tristimulus values of the film (i.e., the XYZ color space of the film) were measured and recorded. The Y tristimulus values in the three different areas of the film were measured on the black part of the opaque panel and also on the white part of the opaque panel.

The background L can be calculated anywhere within the image. Images are taken at the locations where the nozzle will fire the pigmented cosmetic composition. The background L may be an arithmetic mean, median or average of a plurality of local ls, which means that the calculation may include all local ls in the image or a subset thereof.

Referring now to fig. 1, wherein the analysis window 10 is an area comprising a skin sample 12 and a nozzle array 20. The analysis window may be any shape, including circular, square, rectangular, triangular, parallelogram, or polygonal. The nozzle array 20 may include one or more nozzles 24 that are off or unfired and one or more nozzles 22 that are on or fired. A tonal defect 30 is shown below the nozzle array portion 32 and a skin region 31 is shown below the nozzle array region 33. A background L is calculated on and around the skin 12, and a skin region 14 is measured for local L₁And the skin area 16 is the measurement area L₂Where (a) is located. The skin region 14 is below the nozzle array 20, but not within the tonal defect. Thus, the local L₁Background L (Δ L)_1M) Is less than a predetermined threshold for starting nozzle firing. Δ L required for initial nozzle firing_SThe threshold is a variable and depends on the scale used. For example, with a 0-255 gray scale, Δ L required to initiate nozzle firing_SThe threshold will typically be a value of 2 or greater. Thus, in the example shown in FIG. 1, Δ L_1MIs less than 2. Skin area 16 is within the tonal defect 30 and local L2-the absolute value of background L (Δ L)_2M) Greater than about 2. Thus, the nozzles around the skin area 14 are normally closed, and the nozzles around the skin area 16 are normally fired.

To ensure that the nozzle is not clogged with particulate or dry pigmented cosmetic composition, any nozzle can simply be fired at any time to ensure that it is clean or clean, i.e., not clogged, and is "healthy". The number of nozzles directly above a tonal defect fired in response to the tonal defect may be based on Δ L_SSize ofThe size (e.g., surface area) of the tonal defect, or other parameters designed by one skilled in the art.

Treatment time will vary based on the size of the skin surface area to be treated and the precision and amount of modification. For example, a woman may wish to touch down only a few small areas on her face before going to a grocery store. This process can take several minutes. Alternatively, a young bride may wear a wedding gown to a salon, and a salon professional carefully treats all exposed skin areas, then marries and takes a wedding photograph. This complete body treatment can take hours. Thus, the user will have good control over the amount of time they choose to use the device of the present invention.

Referring now to fig. 2, a deposition apparatus 40 according to the present invention is shown. The deposition device 40 is placed directly over the skin 18, separated by a physical spacer 42. The physical spacer 42 has a predetermined height α set so that when it contacts the skin 18, the mechanical and electrical elements are all at a known distance from the skin 18. Mechanical and electrical components are associated with deposition device 40 and include, but are not limited to, lamp 44, sensor 46, nozzle array 20 embedded on cartridge die 57, cartridge die 54 attached to printer cartridge 52. Barrel die 57 is made of silicon, glass, machinable glass-ceramic, sapphire, alumina, printed wiring board substrate (e.g., FR4, liquid crystal polymer, polyimide, etc.), in which nozzle array 20 may be formed. All of these elements are enclosed in an optional equipment enclosure 41.

The light 44 illuminates the skin area 18 within the spacer 42 so that the sensor 46 has a relatively constant illumination. Background illumination will affect image capture because portions of the spacer 42 lift from the skin 18 and allow background light to enter, and illumination from the lamps 44 to escape, but minor differences in illumination may be corrected because the lamps 44 provided provide relatively constant background illumination. The light 44 may be a Light Emitting Diode (LED), an incandescent light, a neon light, or any other commercially available illumination source. The light 44 may have constant illumination or may have adjustable illumination. For example, if the background illumination is too bright or too dark, an adjustable light source may be used.

The sensor 46 may be any component capable of obtaining visual characteristics of a skin region, non-limiting examples of which may include an image capture device, a spectrophotometer, a photon measurement device for wavelengths within the visible spectrum and those above and below the visible spectrum that can measure subsurface features, and combinations thereof.

In one aspect, the sensor 46 may be an image capture device capable of capturing an image of the skin 18. The image capture device 46 may be any of a variety of commercially available devices, such as a simple camera or a digital cmos camera chip. The sensor 46 may measure the L value of the skin 18 and/or may capture an image of the skin 18 and may send it to the processor 50 for analysis via the image capture line 48. The image may be analyzed for local L values, background L values, or both. The greyscale conversion is within the analysis processing capabilities of the processor 50. Comparing background L with local L to determine Δ L_MOccurs in the processor 50, which may be a commercially available programmable chip or other commercially available processing unit.

The processor 50 is commonly referred to as a central processing unit ("CPU"). The CPU may be a single programmable chip such as those found in consumer electronics devices such as laptop computers, mobile phones, electric razors, and the like. The CPU may include an Application Specific Integrated Circuit (ASIC), a controller, a Field Programmable Gate Array (FPGA), an integrated circuit, a microcontroller, a microprocessor, a processor, and the like. The CPU may also include memory functionality, either internal to the CPU as cache memory, such as Random Access Memory (RAM), Static Random Access Memory (SRAM), etc., or external to the CPU, such as Dynamic Random Access Memory (DRAM), Read Only Memory (ROM), static RAM, flash memory (e.g., compact flash cards or smart media cards), hard drives, Solid State Drives (SSDs), or internet cloud storage. While it is contemplated that a remote CPU connected to the deposition apparatus or communicating wirelessly may be used, a local CPU within the deposition apparatus is illustrated herein.

The images may be acquired sequentially or preferably continuously. An image capture device that acquires images at a minimum of 4 frames per second is preferred. Higher speed image capture means (greater than 4 frames per second) are also desirable, for example greater than 100 frames per second, or greater than 200 frames per second, or greater than 600 frames per second. All images may be collected in grayscale or converted to grayscale, and the grayscale may have any range, e.g., 0-255, without units. This corresponds to a refresh rate of approximately 0.2 seconds or faster. Consistent with the image capture device, the CPU may process at a rate of 100 frames per second, or greater than 200 frames per second, or greater than 600 frames per second.

The results of the image analysis, when compared to standards preprogrammed into the processor 50, may result in a desired modification of the skin 18. In such cases, for example, when Δ L is calculated_MExceeding a predetermined Δ L_SAt this point, a signal is sent from the processor 50 to the cartridge 52 via the cartridge line 51 to fire one or more nozzles 21 in the nozzle array 20 and dispense the coloring cosmetic composition.

Power for cartridge 52, light 44, sensor 46, processor 50, and other mechanical and electrical elements that may be present, may be supplied by power element 54 via one or more power lines 55. The power element 54, and in turn the deposition apparatus 40, may be turned off and on via a power switch 56, which power switch 56 may be located anywhere on the deposition apparatus 40, but is shown here on the apparatus lid 58. The power element 54 may include energy storage functionality implemented via batteries, rechargeable batteries, electrochemical capacitors, double layer capacitors, ultracapacitors, hybrid battery-capacitor systems, and combinations thereof.

Turning now to fig. 3, an exploded view of the cartridge 52 including the cartridge cover 62 and the cartridge body 64 is shown. Cartridge body 64 includes a standpipe 66 generally enclosed within cartridge body 64 and defining a nozzle outlet 68. The optional filter 70 helps to keep oversized particles and other debris out of the nozzle array 20. The filter 70 and nozzle array 20 are on opposite sides of the nozzle outlet 68. The pigmented cosmetic composition 74 partially fills the cartridge body 64. The foam core 72 fills the cartridge 64 and helps regulate the back pressure of the pigmented cosmetic composition 74. The back pressure may be regulated by a bladder (not shown) and other methods known in the art, and the foam core shown here is just one example of how to help regulate the flow of pigmented cosmetic composition 74 through filter 70 to stand pipe 66 and into nozzle array 20. The connector 78 provides power and signals to the nozzle array 20. The pigmented cosmetic composition 74 may be ejected from the cartridge 52 by a piezoelectric component, a thermal component, a mechanical pump component, or a combination of these components.

Reference is now made to fig. 4, 5 and 6, which are photographs of the same female subject. Figure 4 represents washed, natural and uncoated skin of a subject. Fig. 5 is a photograph of a subject after applying cosmetics to her face in a manner that she normally uses. Fig. 6 is a photograph taken after removing a cosmetic from a subject and treating the face thereof with the deposition device of the present invention. Fig. 4, fig. 5, and fig. 6 were all taken on the same day with no measurable sun exposure between the photographs (i.e., the subject was indoors for the entire duration of the modification).

The tonal imperfections 101, 102, 103 and 104 are evident in fig. 4. After application of the cosmetic, the hue flaws 101, 102, 103 and 104 are still all visible as shown in fig. 5. Fig. 4 and 5 show that the cosmetic changes the overall tone of human skin, but does not cover the tone blemish.

After taking the photograph of fig. 5, the subject washed her face to remove the applied cosmetic. The subject's skin was then modified with the deposition device of the present invention and the photograph of fig. 6 was taken. The tonal imperfections 101, 102 and 104 of fig. 4 and 5 are not substantially visible in fig. 6. The tone defect 103 is hardly visible after the modification with the deposition apparatus usable in the present invention. The deposition device provides a substantially visible change to the appearance of human skin relative to naturally conditioned skin and cosmetic-applied skin.

The background L can be calculated anywhere within the image. Images are taken at the locations where the nozzle will fire the pigmented cosmetic composition. The background L may be an arithmetic mean, median or average of a plurality of local ls, which means that the calculation may include all local ls in the image or a subset thereof.

Predetermined Δ L_SIs the absolute value of the difference between local L and background L. This value Δ L can be set_SDefined as absolute numbers or percentages. The sensor is, for example, a camera that captures black and white or color images, a spectrophotometer, or similar device that is sensitive to the wavelength of electromagnetic energy. Capturing images orTo standard gray scale as known in the art. It should be understood that any numerical scale measuring lightness to darkness may be considered a "gray scale". Further, as used herein, "grayscale" is intended to be a linear scale, or a band or a visual attribute. For example, one "grayscale" visual attribute may be a single wavelength or a narrow wavelength that defines a particular visual color. Another example of a "grayscale" visual attribute may be a mixture of the average of the wavelength values of each pixel making up an image, such as a positive black, gray, or white image from an RGB mixture.

It will also be appreciated by those skilled in the art that the background L value should not be too close to the end of this scale. For example, if the gray scale is 0-100, 0 is pure black, 100 is pure white, the background in the range of 0-10 or in the range of 90-100 may be too light or too dark to show meaningful differences. Thus, the background illumination or gain of the sensor acquiring the image may be adjusted to bring the background L closer to the middle of the scale. In this example, a background L of 50 would be desirable, with a background L in the range of 10-90 being preferred, and 20-80 being even more preferred.

The most common gray scales are 0-255 (no units), and other examples include 0-1024 and 0-4096. The difference between the gray steps is at least 1/255 for gray scales of 0-255. In this example, it is desirable to use a sensor and lighting setting that provides a background L value between 60 and 210. Using 0-255 gray scale, Δ L_SPreferably at least 0.5, more preferably at least 1, and even more preferably at least 1.5, to begin modifying the skin surface. Likewise,. DELTA.L_SMeasurable as a percentage, e.g. a value Δ L of 2.6_SApproximately equal to 1.0% of the 255 shades of gray. Thus, Δ L_SIt may be plus or minus 0.25%, preferably plus or minus 0.5%, even more preferably plus or minus 0.75% of the gray scale.

There is no technical difference between the image for background L values and the image for local L values, the difference being in the analysis of the images. Thus, the images are continuously sent to the processor to calculate the L value and Δ L_MThe value is obtained. By "sending", it is understood that each image preferably conveys at least 4 bits of data per pixel, and that these 4 ratios are preferably usedEach local L value is calculated for a particular (or more) packet.

It should be understood that the background L may be calculated once during the process, and the value may be reused throughout the process. Alternatively, it may be continuously calculated repeatedly as long as the processing is performed. Furthermore, there may be a pre-programmed trigger to initiate a re-calculation of the background L. Also, the context L may be retrieved from the processor memory for the current context L. For example, if a long period of time has elapsed and no tonal flaws are found, or if tonal flaws are found too frequently, a new background L may be automatically calculated. Likewise,. DELTA.L_SMay be a set value that remains constant throughout the treatment cycle, or may vary. For any of various reasons, Δ L may be reset during a processing cycle_S. If too many nozzles are fired too frequently, Δ L may be adjusted_STo reduce the intensity of the nozzle firing. Similarly, if the nozzle firing is too infrequent, Δ L may be adjusted in the opposite direction_STo increase the sensitivity of tonal defect detection. One skilled in the art will appreciate that Δ L is modified during modification_SThe processor is programmed with or has a desired algorithm.

When Δ L_MWhen the predetermined value is exceeded, the tint flaws are treated with the coloring cosmetic composition. Treatment requires firing of one or more nozzles that dispense the pigmented cosmetic composition onto the skin surface in the area of the color imperfections.

More specifically, the pigmented cosmetic composition is applied via an array of nozzles, and the local L is calculated along the length of the array of nozzles and over the firing range. The "firing range" of the nozzle will vary based on its size, type, speed of device movement, distance from the target, and other parameters. Examples of various types of nozzles suitable for use in the apparatus of the present invention are given below. In general, "approaching the nozzle" as used herein means acquiring an image for calculating a local L value, which is close to the skin surface area (the firing range or landing zone of the nozzle) where the coloring cosmetic composition is deposited through the nozzle. Without intending to limit the invention, close proximity to the nozzle means that the image should be acquired within a radius of about 2cm, preferably about 1cm, and even more preferably about 0.7cm from the center of the nozzle.

A single nozzle may be fired to deposit the pigmented cosmetic composition, or multiple nozzles may be fired simultaneously. The number of nozzles fired along the nozzle array may be based on Δ L_MAnd the size of the hue defect. Further, the nozzle firing frequency may be based on Δ L_MIs adjusted in response to a larger Δ L_MValue, successively firing more droplets.

The firing intensity profile may be programmed into the processor to adjust the nozzle firing rate. For example, if Δ L_MIs equal to or slightly greater than Δ L_SThen the adjacent nozzle is fired once. If Δ L_MIncrease to 2 × Δ L_SThen the adjacent nozzle is fired 25 times. If Δ L_MIs 3 × Δ L_SThen the adjacent nozzle is fired 100 times. This non-limiting example is intended to illustrate Δ L_MRelative to Δ L_SCan be determined by the amount, and thus the firing strength, of the nozzle adjacent to the tonal defect. Those skilled in the art will appreciate that it is known to plot a firing intensity curve using 2, 3, or more data points, and then program the firing intensity curve into a processor.

Although an inkjet cartridge is shown and exemplified herein, other "flow control" devices or non-droplet control devices may be used to apply the pigmented cosmetic composition. Flow control devices typically feature "droplet control techniques" for controlling individual droplets of material. Ink jet printers known in the art are examples of drop on demand applicators, and this technique is applicable to the present invention. Piezoelectric drop control devices and other micro-electromechanical systems are suitable for use with current deposition devices. Spray devices and electrostatic spray devices are non-droplet control technologies where droplets are generated and controlled only in the form of aggregates. Typically in spray devices, no single droplet control is required, or "randomness" is desired in order to produce a smooth application over a relatively large area. In contrast, it is generally desirable to provide very specific control over the amount and placement site of the composition.

Examples of droplet control may include "trickle control" in which the flow of a substance is precisely controlled to deliver droplets as desired; and "ink jet technology". Older inkjet technology involved supplying a continuous stream of charged droplets to an ac-charged electrostatic deflector plate, so that the plate could pass or deflect the droplets towards the division bars. Other ink jet technologies include "drop on demand" thermal devices such as those provided by Hewlett Packard and piezoelectric devices such as those provided by Epson and other printer manufacturers. In one embodiment of the present invention, drop-on-demand technology is combined with charging the droplets.

The deposition device useful in the present invention is preferably hand-held, but may be attached to a structure that moves the deposition device over the skin surface to be modified. If handheld, the user may simply move the deposition device over the skin surface to be modified. Optionally, multiple deposition devices may be configured in a fixed configuration where the user places the skin surface to be modified, and multiple readings or applications occur simultaneously or sequentially.

The pigmented cosmetic composition may be applied to the skin surface by simultaneously scanning and applying while creating multiple channels on the surface. The use of multiple pass administration can yield several advantages. The method of multi-pass application is to apply the pigmented cosmetic composition topically and then to scan again the area of the skin surface that has received the topical application. The pigmented cosmetic composition may be reapplied and a second multi-pass scan and application may also be performed for aesthetic purposes. Thus, the user may select a finishing end point, i.e. "aesthetic goal", thus customizing the finishing time to individual needs and preferences. Attempts to make all corrections in one pass have been shown to be overcorrected in some areas.

In one aspect, the pigmented cosmetic composition is deposited onto from about 1% to about 40%, alternatively less than about 20%, alternatively less than about 10%, alternatively less than about 5%, alternatively less than about 1%, alternatively less than about 0.5% of the surface area of the user's skin for the area of skin to which the device has been exposed. This may be desirable because it may provide reduced tactile impact as more of the user's underlying skin is exposed and not covered by the pigmented cosmetic composition.

Inkjet devices, whether piezoelectric or thermal, can produce droplets in the range of about 1 picoliter to over 100 picoliters depending on the application. In current systems, it is desirable that the droplet size be small enough so that it is not visible when deposited onto the skin, even when viewed at close distances. Without being limited by theory, it is believed that the largest discrete droplet that remains invisible to the naked eye when on the skin has a diameter of about 60 to 100 microns, depending on both the distance and the sensitivity of the person viewing the droplet. The drop volume of the product varies depending on the fluid characteristics including viscosity, surface energy, vapor pressure, and the like. However, based on the geometry of the droplets, it can be reasonably assumed that the maximum individual droplet volume that can produce a surface spot size of less than 60 microns in diameter is about 100 picoliters.

The deposition device may apply the pigmented cosmetic composition in the form of droplets having an average diameter of from about 0.1 μm to about 60 μm, alternatively from about 1 μm to about 50 μm, alternatively from about 5 μm to about 40 μm. Preferably, the pigmented cosmetic composition may be applied to the tonal defect in a discontinuous pattern of discrete droplets.

Coloring cosmetic composition

When accurately deposited and substantially deposited only on tonal imperfections, the coloring cosmetic composition may hide or mask tonal imperfections, such as hyperpigmentation.

The pigmented cosmetic composition may comprise particles. In one aspect, the pigmented cosmetic composition preferably comprises a particle sedimentation rate of less than 0.06mm per day at 25 ℃ and 1 atmosphere. The pigmented cosmetic composition may also have an elastic modulus at 25C and 1000Hz of from about 0.1Pa to about 1000 Pa. The solid wax-based colored cosmetic composition may have an elastic modulus of up to about 100 MPa. Preferably, the particles in the pigmented cosmetic composition have a refractive index between about 1.1 and about 5.0.

In one aspect, the pigmented cosmetic composition may include an opacity of at least 0.2. In one aspect, the pigmented cosmetic composition may include an opacity of from about 0.2 to about 1, alternatively from about 0.25 to about 0.8, alternatively from about 0.3 to about 0.5.

Pigmented cosmetic compositions can include inks, dyes, pigments, binders, curable compositions, photoactivatable compounds, metal oxides such as iron, zinc, or titanium oxide, bleaching agents, texture-reducing polymers, cosmetics, hair dyes, and combinations thereof. In one aspect, the pigmented cosmetic composition may include a metal oxide having an average particle size greater than 100 nm.

In one aspect, the color cosmetic composition may be a skin care composition, a hair removal composition (commonly referred to as a depilatory), a hair growth stimulant, and mixtures thereof.

The colored cosmetic composition may be delivered alone or in the presence of a dermatologically acceptable carrier. As used herein, the phrase "dermatologically acceptable carrier" means that the carrier is suitable for topical application to skin tissue, has good aesthetic characteristics, is compatible with any additional components of the colored cosmetic composition, and will not cause any undue safety or toxicity problems. The carrier may be in various forms. Non-limiting examples include simple solutions (water-based or oil-based), emulsions, and solid forms (gels, sticks, flowable solids, amorphous substances). In certain embodiments, the dermatologically acceptable carrier is in the form of an emulsion. Emulsions can generally be classified as having a continuous aqueous phase (e.g., oil-in-water and water-in-oil-in-water) or a continuous oil phase (e.g., water-in-oil and oil-in-water-in-oil). The oil phase may comprise silicone oils, non-silicone oils such as hydrocarbon oils, esters, ethers, and the like, and mixtures thereof. Emulsion carriers may include, but are not limited to, continuous aqueous phase emulsions such as silicone-in-water, oil-in-water, and water-in-oil-in-water emulsions; continuous oil phase emulsions, such as water-in-oil and water-in-silicone emulsions; and oil-in-water silicone emulsions.

In one aspect, the pigmented cosmetic composition may be oil-free.

The colored cosmetic compositions can be delivered in a variety of product forms including, but not limited to, creams, lotions, gels, foams, pastes, or slurries. Furthermore, the pigmented cosmetic compositions may comprise antifungal and antibacterial components for the purpose of proper formulation and stabilization.

ColouringThe cosmetic composition may comprise a humectant as a carrier or base for other components in the pigmented cosmetic composition. One exemplary class of wetting agents includes polyols. Suitable polyols include polyalkylene glycols and alkylene polyols and their derivatives, including propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and their derivatives; sorbitol; hydroxypropyl sorbitol; erythritol; threitol; pentaerythritol; xylitol; (ii) a glucitol; mannitol; butanediol (e.g., 1, 3-butanediol); pentanediol; hexanetriol (e.g., 1,2, 6-hexanetriol); glycerol; ethoxylated glycerol; and propoxylated glycerol. Other suitable wetting agents may include sodium 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylate; guanidine, glycolic acid, and glycolate salts (e.g., ammonium and quaternary alkylammonium); lactic acid and lactate salts (e.g., ammonium and quaternary alkylammonium); aloe in any of a variety of forms (e.g., aloe gel); hyaluronic acid and its derivatives (e.g., salt derivatives such as sodium hyaluronate); lactamide monoethanolamine; acetamide monoethanolamine; urea; sodium pyroglutamate, water soluble glyceryl poly (meth) acrylate lubricants (such as) (ii) a And mixtures thereof.

Colorants can be used to modify the color or reflectance of the skin surface. In cosmetic compositions, compositions comprising colorants are commonly used to modify color and reflectance. Foundations, lipsticks, eyeliners are just a few examples of these cosmetic compositions, but they are all applied uniformly over most of the skin surface, that is, they are applied in large quantities. In contrast, the pigmented cosmetic compositions of the present invention are selectively applied to selected areas in very small amounts, that is, they are intended for low volume applications. Suitable colorants for use in coloring cosmetic compositions may include inorganic or organic pigments and powders. Organic pigments can include natural colorants and synthetic monomeric and polymeric colorants. Organic pigments include various aromatic types, such as azo dyes, indigo dyes, triphenylmethane dyes, anthraquinone dyes, and xanthine dyes, which are known as D & C and FD & C blue, brown, green, orange, red, yellow, and the like. Organic pigments may consist of insoluble metal salts of certified pigment additives, known as lakes. Inorganic pigments include iron oxides, ferric ammonium ferrocyanide, manganese violet, ultramarine pigments, chromium hydroxide pigments, and mixtures thereof. The pigment may be coated with one or more ingredients that render the pigment hydrophobic. Suitable coating materials will render the pigment more lipophilic in nature and include silicones, lecithins, amino acids, phospholipids, inorganic and organic oils, polyethylene and other polymeric materials. Suitable silicone-treated pigments are disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 5,143,722. Inorganic white or colorless pigments including TiO2, ZnO, or ZrO2 are commercially available from a number of sources. Other suitable colorants are indicated in us patent 7,166,279. The colorant is generally present in an amount by weight such that the coloring cosmetic composition produces a detectable color. The colorant particles are generally spherical, polygonal, or fractal in shape. In one embodiment, the pigmented cosmetic composition exhibits a color that is perceptibly different from the color of the applicator. The perceived difference is the color difference perceived by a person with normal sensory abilities under normal lighting conditions (e.g., natural illumination outside the daytime, illumination from a standard 100 watt incandescent white light bulb at 2 meters, or illumination from CIE D65 standard illumination light as specified by the 1964CIE standard observer at 800 lux).

The pigmented cosmetic composition may comprise an adhesive that is compatible with the skin surface. Commercially available adhesives that are compatible with skin surfaces are available from 3M Corporation (Minneapolis, Minnesota). See, for example, the following U.S. patents: 6,461,467 to Blatchford et al; 5,614,310 to Delgado et al; and 5,160,315 to Heinecke et al, which is incorporated herein by reference. In one aspect, a pigmented cosmetic composition comprising an adhesive may be selectively applied to a skin surface, and a second pigmented cosmetic composition may be dusted onto the skin surface that may be adhered to the adhesive. The second pigmented cosmetic composition that is not adhered to the skin surface may then be removed, leaving the second pigmented cosmetic composition applied in selectively small amounts.

Likewise, the pigmented cosmetic composition may comprise a curable composition which cures upon exposure to certain wavelengths of energy, such as infrared light. In one aspect, a pigmented cosmetic composition comprising a curable composition can be selectively applied to a skin surface and can be cured by exposing the skin surface to a curing energy source. The entire skin surface may be exposed, or the exposure may be simultaneous with the application.

The pigmented cosmetic composition may be an anti-wrinkle composition comprising a tensioning polymer and/or a film-forming polymer. Suitable tensioning polymers are described in U.S. patent application US20060210513a1 filed by Luizzi et al, and suitable film-forming polymers are described in US20070148120a1 filed by Omura et al, which is incorporated herein by reference.

The colored cosmetic composition may comprise photoactivatable particles. Sometimes referred to as "interference pigments," these optically activated particles include particles of a variety of substances selected from the group consisting of: nylon, polyacrylic, polyester, other plastic polymers, natural materials, regenerated cellulose, metals, and minerals; an optical brightener that is chemically bonded to each of a plurality of substrate particles to form an integral unit in the form of a light-activated particle for diffusing light. These particles can help reduce the visual perception of color imperfections including cellulite, dark circles, skin discoloration, and wrinkles. Each photoactivatable particle is encapsulated with a uv-transparent coating to increase the diffused light to further reduce the visual perception of skin imperfections. The encapsulated photoactive particles are capable of absorbing ultraviolet radiation and emitting visible light; and when the light-activated particles are applied to the skin surface, the encapsulated light-activated particles are capable of both scattering light and absorbing light in a diffuse manner so as to reduce the visual perception of tonal imperfections, including cellulite, wrinkles, dark under-eye circles, and skin discoloration.

The pigmented cosmetic composition may be a skin care composition such as moisturizers, conditioners, anti-aging compositions, skin lightening compositions, sunscreens, sunless tanning agents, and combinations thereof.

The coloring cosmetic composition can be contained safely and effectivelyAn amount of one or more active agents useful for regulating and/or improving skin condition. By "safe and effective amount" is meant an amount of a compound or composition that is sufficient to elicit a positive benefit, but low enough to avoid serious side effects (i.e., to provide a reasonable benefit to risk ratio within the scope of sound judgment of the skilled artisan). A safe and effective amount of active may be about 1X 10 by weight of the total composition^-6To about 25%, alternatively from about 0.0001 to about 25% by weight of the total composition, alternatively from about 0.01 to about 10% by weight of the total composition, alternatively from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of the total composition, alternatively from about 0.2 to about 2% by weight of the total composition.

Suitable actives include, but are not limited to, vitamins (e.g., B3 compounds such as niacinamide, niacin, tocopheryl nicotinate, B5 compounds such as panthenol, vitamin A compounds and natural and/or synthetic analogs of vitamin A including retinoids, retinol, retinyl acetate, retinyl palmitate, retinoic acid, retinal, retinyl propionate, carotenoids (provitamin A), vitamin E compounds, or tocopherols including tocopheryl sorbate, tocopheryl acetate, vitamin C compounds including ascorbate, ascorbates and ascorbic acid derivatives of fatty acids such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside and ascorbyl sorbate), peptides (e.g., peptides containing ten or fewer amino acids, their derivatives, isomers and complexes with other substances such as metal ions), Sugar amines (e.g., N-acetyl glucosamine), sunscreens, oil control agents, tanning actives, anti-acne actives, desquamation actives, anti-cellulite actives, chelating agents, skin lightening actives, flavonoids, protease inhibitors (e.g., hexamidine and derivatives), non-vitamin antioxidants and free radical scavengers, peptides, salicylic acid, hair growth regulators, anti-wrinkle actives, anti-atrophy actives, minerals, phytosterols and/or phytohormones, tyrosinase inhibitors, N-acyl amino acid compounds, moisturizers, plant extracts, and derivatives of any of the foregoing actives. As used herein, the term "derivative" refers to a structure that is not shown but is understood by those skilled in the art to be a variation of the basic compound. For example, benzene removes one hydrogen atom and replaces it with a methyl group. Suitable active substances are also described in U.S. patent application publications US2006/0275237A1 and US2004/0175347A1, which are incorporated herein by reference.

Consumer testing

A consumer test was conducted to evaluate the ability of four-color pigmented cosmetic compositions to mask tonal imperfections in a range of consumer skin tones. The four shades evaluated were light, medium dark and dark, respectively, and correspond to samples a-D, respectively.

Panelists were performed using the following criteria:

skin condition: hyperpigmentation

Skin color: feichi scale type I-VI

All participants were women between 25-65 years of age

Absence of sores or active comedones

No participant has been a dermatologist or cosmetologist for any skin lightening procedure in the past.

The 41 panelists used 2 samples selected based on their fei's scale type. The number of panelists per type of the fickian scale was as follows: form I and form II: 6; type III: 6; type IV: 16; and forms V and VI: 13.

images of the left and right sides of each panelist were collected at baseline (bare, clean skin). Values of L x C x h were obtained for each panelist face using the "LCH test method for skin" described below. The panelist determined her own skin color and selected the corresponding sample. The study coordinator applied the sample to one half of the panelist's face using the deposition device described above. After application of the samples, each panelist filled out a questionnaire to assess final appearance acceptability and collected a second "after" image. The score was graded as 100, as follows: (100) excellent, (75) very good, (50) good, (25) general and (0) poor. The same procedure was repeated for the other side of the panelist's face with a different sample selected by the study coordinator corresponding to the panelist's skin color as determined by the study coordinator. The grades of each sample applied to the panelists were compared and the preferred color was selected. The data for preferred color shades are combined and reported in table 1 below. If the panelists disliked the color, the data from those panelists was excluded from the table.

Images were captured using the Canfield Visia system using the following setup parameters — illumination: standard 2, CR 2; detection threshold value: 6; minimum spot diameter: 1.3 mm; maximum spot diameter: 50 mm; shading: only the cheek.

Table 1 below summarizes the results of the consumer tests. Δ L was calculated as the difference between the average L of the samples and the average L of the skin. Ac is calculated as the difference between the average C of the samples and the average C of the skin. The visible speckle reduction is calculated by taking the difference between the speckle areas of the "baseline" and "post" images. The visible spot analysis provides quantitative data and scores for visible spots under standard daylight conditions. Reduction of visible spots was reported as% visible spots. The overall sample score was reported as the average score of the panelists scoring each sample.

Samples A-D evaluated by panelists correspond to examples 1-4 described below, respectively.

TABLE 1

It was surprisingly found that as the average skin L value decreases, the average ac of the cosmetic composition needs to increase. Panelists with lighter skin tones, e.g., panelists with self-assessed fei's scale type II-IV, were found to prefer samples with Δ C values from 0 to 14, while panelists with darker skin tones, e.g., from the assessment of panelists with type V-VI from the fei's scale, preferably samples with Δ C values from 8 to 21. Δ L between the sample and the skin was also found to be in the range of 20 to 31. Finally, all four samples resulted in a visible spot reduction of greater than 40%, and all samples were rated as either very good or excellent by the panelists.

A single panel of panelists was intentionally provided with a sample having a color outside the preferred range in the same consumer test. In each case, the "no correction" colour was assessed by the panelists as being less preferred. The data are summarized in table 2 below.

TABLE 2

Panelists 1-3 each received sample D on one side of their face. Panelists 1 and 2 had an average skin L value less than ten units lower than the L value of sample D, in both cases each panelist scored "poor" (0) for acceptance of the final appearance because the spots on her face were not bright enough to match the L of the surrounding skin. Panelist 3 had an average skin L value of about 55 and Δ L between the sample and her skin was 14.4, which fell within acceptable ranges. However, panelists only rated "good" (50) for acceptance of the final appearance because the shade of sample D was too high for her skin tone.