阅读说明：本技术 发蜡组合物 (Hair wax composition ) 是由 曹咪 王坦 刘晓平 吴水平 王凡 暴朝霞 于 2020-04-14 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明属于化妆品领域,并公开了一种头发造型组合物,特别是一种不含化石来源的油和蜡的发蜡组合物。通过使用替代性的油和蜡,提供了具有良好的头发造型性质的组合物。(The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics and discloses a hair styling composition, in particular a hair wax composition which does not contain fossil-source oil and wax. By using alternative oils and waxes, compositions with good hair styling properties are provided.)

1. A hair wax composition comprises

-at least one synthetic wax,

-at least one oil, and

-at least one emulsifier, wherein the composition is free of waxes and/or oils derived from fossil origin.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains from 50 to 80% by weight, preferably from 60 to 75% by weight, of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the at least one synthetic wax is produced from carbon monoxide and hydrogen by the fischer-tropsch process.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of said at least one synthetic wax is from 1.0 to 15.0% by weight, preferably from 3.0 to 12.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one wax derived from natural sources, in particular from plants and insects.

6. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the at least one wax derived from natural sources is chosen from beeswax, carnauba wax and/or candelilla wax.

7. Composition according to claim 5 or 6, characterized in that the total amount of wax ranges from 1.0 to 20.0% by weight, preferably from 3.0 to 15.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the at least one oil is chosen from

Triglycerides of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular caprylic/capric triglyceride;

-linear silicone oils, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes;

-esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms with saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, and esters selected from aromatic carboxylic acids with saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the esters are fluid at room temperature, preferably C12-15 alkyl benzoate.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of said at least one oil is from 1.0 to 15.0% by weight, preferably from 2.0 to 8.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the at least one emulsifier is a non-ionic emulsifier, preferably selected from

Partial fatty acid esters and fatty acid esters of polyhydric alcohols and ethoxylated derivatives thereof (e.g. glycerol monostearate, sorbitan stearate, glycerol stearyl citrate, sucrose stearate), and

ethoxylated fatty alcohols and fatty acids.

11. Composition according to claim 10, characterized in that the partial fatty acid ester is a monoglyceride of a saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkane carboxylic acid having a chain length of 8 to 24, preferably selected from the group consisting of glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monooleate, more preferably glyceryl monostearate.

12. Composition according to claim 10, characterized in that the ethoxylated derivative is a polyethoxylated fatty acid ester with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms and a degree of ethoxylation of 5 to 200, preferably selected from the group consisting of PEG-9 stearate, PEG-8 distearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-25 glyceryl trioleate, PEG-40 sorbitan lanolate, PEG-15 glyceryl ricinoleate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl oleate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, PEG-30 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl laurate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl laurate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 laurate, more preferably PEG-100 stearate.

13. Composition according to claim 10, characterized in that the ethoxylated fatty alcohol is chosen from ethoxylated stearyl alcohol, cetyl stearyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol), preferably polyethylene glycol (13) stearyl ether (steareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) stearyl ether (steareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) stearyl ether (steareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) stearyl ether (steareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) stearyl ether (steareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) stearyl ether (steareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) stearyl ether (steareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) stearyl ether (steareth-20), polyethylene glycol (12) isostearyl ether (isostearyl-12), Polyethylene glycol (13) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-20), polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl ether (cetyl polyether-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl ether (cetyl polyether-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl ether (cetyl polyether-15), Polyethylene glycol (16) cetyl ether (ceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) cetyl ether (ceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl ether (ceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl ether (ceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl ether (ceteth-20), polyethylene glycol (13) isocetyl ether (isocetyl-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isocetyl ether (isocetyl-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isocetyl ether (isocetyl-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isocetyl ether (isocetyl-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isocetyl ether (isocetyl-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isocetyl ether (isocetyl-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isocetyl ether (isocetyl-19), Polyethylene glycol (20) isocetyl ether (isocetyl polyether-20), polyethylene glycol (12) oleyl ether (oleyl-12), polyethylene glycol (13) oleyl ether (oleyl-13), polyethylene glycol (14) oleyl ether (oleyl-14), polyethylene glycol (15) oleyl ether (oleyl-15), polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether (laureth-12), polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether (isolaureth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) cetearyl ether (ceteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetearyl ether (ceteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetearyl ether (ceteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetearyl ether (ceteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) cetearyl ether (cetearyl-17), Polyethylene glycol (18) cetearyl ether (ceteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetearyl ether (ceteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetearyl ether (ceteareth-20), most preferably polyethylene glycol (20) cetearyl ether (ceteareth-20).

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of said at least one emulsifier is from 1.0 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 2.0 to 5.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one structuring polymer, preferably chosen from nonionic structuring polymers, more preferably homopolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, homopolymers of N-vinylformamide or homopolymers of N-vinylcaprolactam, or copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate or copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and propionate or terpolymers of vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminomethacrylate, most preferably homopolymers of vinylpyrrolidone.

16. Composition according to claim 15, characterized in that the total content of said at least one structuring polymer is from 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 2.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition and relative to the active content of the structuring polymer.

17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one humectant, preferably chosen from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, xylitol, maltitol, polydextrose, hydrogenated starch hydrolysates, urea, alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid, and/or honey, more preferably chosen from hydrogenated starch hydrolysates and/or propylene glycol.

18. Composition according to claim 17, characterized in that the total content of said at least one humectant is from 1.0 to 20.0% by weight, more preferably from 5.0 to 15.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one thickener, preferably chosen from polyacrylates, more preferably from copolymers of one or more monomers chosen from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or esters thereof with C10-30 alkyl acrylates, most preferably acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers.

20. Composition according to claim 19, characterized in that the total content of said at least one thickening agent is from 0.05 to 1.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition and relative to the active content.

21. A method of making the composition of any of the preceding claims, the method comprising the steps of:

heating the oil phase (comprising wax, oil and emulsifier),

heating the aqueous phase (including water, optional humectant and thickener),

the two phases were combined while stirring, and then the batch was homogenized until the appearance was uniform,

adding an inorganic or organic base and water to adjust the pH in the range of 5.5 to 8.5, preferably 6.5 to 7.5, continuously stirring and homogenizing,

the mixture is cooled down and then is cooled down,

optionally adding a styling polymer and perfume, and

continue stirring and cool to room temperature.

22. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 20 in hair styling.

Technical Field

The present invention relates to a cosmetic preparation, in particular a hair styling composition, more particularly a hair wax composition. The composition is free of oils and waxes from fossil origin. By using alternative oils and waxes, it is possible to obtain a very desirable product for proper styling of the hair.

Background

The entire body, except for the lips, palms and soles, is covered with hair, although most are barely visible. Since the hair root has many nerve endings, the hair is sensitive to external influences such as wind or touch and is therefore part of the sense of touch that should not be underestimated. Today, however, the most important function of human hair is to help sculpt the appearance of the human in a characteristic way. Like skin, it fulfills a social function because it contributes considerably to the individual's personal relationships and self-esteem through its appearance.

Hair consists of hair shafts and hair roots. The hair shaft protrudes freely from the skin and is the keratinized (dead) part of the hair. The hair shaft represents the actual visible part of the hair and is constantly renewed. The hair roots buried in the skin are the living parts of the hair. The hair shaft is composed of three layers: the central part, called the hair marrow (medulla), degenerates in humans, often disappearing completely; then the marrow, also called cortex; and epidermis, which is the outermost layer, containing up to ten stratum corneum layers.

The condition of the human hair in the new growth state is hardly improved. The hair parts near the scalp accordingly have an almost closed cuticle.

In particular, the stratum corneum, which is the outer sheath of hair, and the inner area under the epidermis are subjected to specific stresses of environmental influence.

In many cases, natural growth does not have sufficient mass, and in most cases, natural growth does not have a personally preferred hairstyle. Therefore, there is a strong need for styling products that provide volume and individualized styling to the hair. There are several product formats on the market that serve the different preferences of consumers. There are products applied to wet hair, such as mousses and lotions. After drying, the hair is styled and styled primarily by the fixing/styling polymers contained in the product. Different styling product forms are those intended for dry hair. A conventional product is hair spray, which is used to hold already styled hair.

Another type of product that is commonly applied to dry hair is hair wax. Typically, these products are primarily wax-based, containing no water or only a small amount of water. Due to the wax relationship, the product is solid or semi-solid and sold in cans. When a small amount of product is removed from the container, it is dispensed into the hand, and the temperature is raised to melt the wax. The product is applied to the hair, and can be used for styling. The product cools again, resulting in a fixed hairstyle. To improve the elution of the hair wax, an emulsifier is included.

In order to further improve the elution of the hair wax, polyethylene glycol or a component containing a considerable amount of ethylene glycol residues is contained in the hair wax. When such a component is used, it is not necessary to include an emulsifier.

Hair waxes often contain components that impart shine to the hair. Typically, these components are oils, which may be of natural or synthetic origin. Examples of natural oils are macadamia nut oil or almond oil; an example of a synthetic oil is silicone oil.

Pomades are known and available as aerosol sprays. The hair wax also contains a volatile hydrocarbon, such as isodecane and a gaseous propellant.

The aforementioned products are also described in the prior art. EP 1792607 a1 describes hair waxes having a pleasant white appearance. To achieve this, a disaccharide polyester or polysaccharide polyester is contained.

US 2005/0163738 a1 discloses hair waxes comprising a silicone-free wax, a liquid oil and a silicone wax.

US 2004/0052744 a1 describes a hair wax product comprising, in addition to wax, at least 40% of an aqueous or alcoholic carrier and an emulsifier.

US 2004/0115152 a1 discloses hair wax compositions containing polyethylene glycol in addition to wax.

JP 2005314365 a1 describes a spray type hair wax comprising a film forming resin, a liquid ester oil, a semi-solid oil and being substantially free of water.

Generally, hair wax products are characterized by the fact that they contain wax. The term "wax" or "waxy" as used herein corresponds to the definition of wax given in Roempp (online version; Roempp. Thieme. de/Roempp4.0, month 12 in 2007 for the last renewal of the wax). By this definition, wax substances are plastic, strong to brittle, coarse to fine crystalline, transparent to opaque, but not glassy at 20 ℃ and melt above 40 ℃ but do not decompose. They have a relatively low viscosity above the melting point, have a consistency and solubility that is highly temperature dependent, and are polishable under mild pressure.

Waxes can be classified into

Natural waxes (e.g. insect waxes, animal waxes and vegetable waxes),

paraffin waxes (e.g. mineral oil waxes or ozokerite),

-a mineral wax,

synthetic waxes (e.g. Fischer-Tropsch waxes, polyolefin waxes such as polyethylene or polybutylene waxes, amide waxes) and

-a partially synthetic wax,

-a microcrystalline wax, the microcrystalline wax being,

-a coarse-grained wax,

hydrocarbon waxes, especially solid high-melting paraffin waxes, petrolatum,

-a montan wax,

acid-functionalized hydrocarbon waxes (obtained, for example, by oxidation of hydrocarbon materials such as polyolefins or paraffins, or by copolymerization of ethylene with acid-containing comonomers such as acrylic acid or vinyl acetate),

-polyethylene glycol waxes and

-silicone wax.

Many of these waxes are derived from mineral oil or other fossil sources. The wax is composed primarily of hydrogenated long carbon chains. In addition, highly alkylated cyclic hydrocarbons are also contained. This fraction may be referred to as MOSH. The second term used in connection with components derived from fossil origin is the term MOAH. Monocyclic or polycyclic aromatic components, sometimes highly alkylated, are referred to in this term. In a few cases, traces of MOAH can be found in cosmetic raw materials derived from fossil sources. It cannot be excluded that a component classified as MOAH may be associated with cancer production.

While all waxes that are allowed to be used are evaluated as safe ingredients for cosmetic compositions according to eu cosmetic product regulations, consumers are increasingly aware of MOSH and MOAH expressions and prefer products that do not contain the raw materials associated with the terms MOSH and MOAH.

Disclosure of Invention

In view of the above-mentioned drawbacks, there is a need to make available hair care compositions, in particular hair waxes, which are free of waxes and/or oils from fossil origin and at the same time provide styling properties which are at least as good, preferably better, than those of conventional hair wax compositions containing waxes from fossil origin.

Surprisingly, it has been found that a hair styling composition, in particular a hair wax composition, containing a composition comprising

-at least one synthetic wax,

-at least one oil, at least one of which,

-at least one emulsifier.

According to the invention, the hair wax composition is an aqueous composition containing from 50 to 80% by weight, preferably from 60 to 75% by weight, of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to the invention, it is preferred that the hair wax composition is free of waxes and/or oils derived from fossil origin. In the meaning of the present invention, the term "free" means containing 0.1% by weight or less, preferably 0.001% by weight or less and most preferably 0% by weight of the corresponding substances.

The at least one synthetic wax used in the present invention is preferably produced by a process known as fischer-tropsch synthesis. By this process, the starting materials are carbon monoxide and hydrogen, which are converted into a mixture of paraffins and olefins and water. By using the waxes produced in this way, no aromatic mono-or polycyclic components are contained.

For example, a suitable synthetic wax is available from Sasaol under the trade name TITANEL.

According to the invention, in the hair wax composition, the total content of the at least one synthetic wax is from 1.0 to 15.0% by weight, preferably from 3.0 to 12.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Natural waxes are derived from natural sources, in particular from plants or insects. One well-known wax is beeswax, which is produced by bees. It contains a mixture of components, of which palmitate, palmitoleate and oleate of long-chain fatty alcohols (30 to 32 carbon atoms) are the main components, of the formula CH₃(CH2)₂₉O-CO-(CH₂)₁₄CH₃Triacontyl palmitate of the formula with CH₃(CH₂)₂₄The wax acid ratio of COOH was 6:1, both of which are the two main components of beeswax. Beeswax useful in the cosmetic composition may be purchased from Koster Keunen as Permulgin 1550BDF and/or from Kahl as Kahlwax 2956.

Another source of natural waxes is plants. It is advantageous if the wax is extracted from the leaves of the carnauba tree (copernica cerifera) or from the leaves of the candelilla (Euphorbia cerifera) and/or Euphorbia cerifera (Euphorbia antayphyllitica). Waxes from these plants are called carnauba wax and candelilla wax, respectively. For example, carnauba wax is available from Kahl as Kahlwax 2442L.

Preferably, in addition to the synthetic waxes, one or more waxes derived from natural sources, preferably beeswax and/or carnauba wax, are also contained in the compositions of the invention.

In addition, cetyl esters may be included. Cetyl esters are blends of the reaction products of myristyl, cetyl and palmitic alcohols with myristic and palmitic acids, the main component of cetyl esters being cetyl palmitate. Sometimes, cetyl esters are also referred to as "synthetic waxes". They were introduced as a replacement for spermaceti. However, in the meaning of the present invention, cetyl esters will only be named cetyl esters. Because they are chemically different from the synthetic waxes described above, a precise distinction will be made between synthetic waxes and cetyl esters throughout the present invention.

In addition, the compositions of the present invention may contain synthetic beeswax. Synthetic beeswax is a manufactured wax that is a blend of fatty esters (C32-C62), fatty acids (C16-C36), fatty alcohols (C16-C36), and high molecular weight hydrocarbons (C21-C34). The highest ester content is followed by hydrocarbons, acids and alcohols.

To produce the comparative examples, waxes derived from fossil sources, such as paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax and ozokerite, were used.

The total amount of the one or more waxes contained in the composition of the invention is from 1.0 to 20.0% by weight, preferably from 3.0 to 15.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to the invention, the hair wax composition contains at least one oil.

To distinguish between oil and wax, oil is fluid at room temperature.

According to the invention, the at least one oil may be chosen from lecithin and fatty acid triglycerides, i.e. triglycerides of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the proviso that the triglycerides are fluid at room temperature. For example, the fatty acid triglycerides may advantageously be selected from synthetic or semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as caprylic/capric triglyceride, cocoglyceride, olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, thistle oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like. Preferably, caprylic/capric triglyceride is included in the compositions of the invention.

According to the invention, the at least one oil may be chosen from linear silicone oils.

Silicone oil is a synthetic polymeric compound in which silicon atoms are linked in a chain and/or network-like manner through oxygen atoms, and the remaining valencies of the silicon are saturated with hydrocarbon groups (in most cases methyl, less commonly ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups, etc.). Systematically, silicone oils are known as polyorganosiloxanes. Methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes are the most important compounds of this group in terms of amount and are characterized by the following formula:

wherein n is 2 to about 2000.

Methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes are also known as polydimethylsiloxanes or dimethylpolysiloxanes (INCI). Polydimethylsiloxanes have various chain lengths and various molecular weights. For example, suitable polydimethylsiloxanes are available from KCC as SF1000N-350 cst.

According to the invention, the at least one oil may be chosen from esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, and from esters of aromatic carboxylic acids with saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the esters are fluid at room temperature. Examples of such ester oils may be octyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate and/or C12-15 alkyl benzoate. Preferably, the compositions of the present invention contain C12-15 alkyl benzoate.

To produce the comparative examples, oils derived from fossil sources, such as liquid paraffin, were used.

According to the invention, one of the oils is preferably chosen from linear silicone oils, and it is particularly preferred that one of the oils is a polydimethylsiloxane. It is further preferred that one of the oils is selected from fatty acid triglycerides, especially caprylic/capric triglyceride. It is also further preferred that the compositions of the present invention contain C12-15 alkyl benzoate. More preferably, the compositions of the present invention comprise one or more polydimethylsiloxanes and caprylic/capric triglycerides and/or C12-15 alkyl benzoates.

According to the invention, the total content of said at least one oil is from 1.0 to 15.0% by weight, preferably from 2.0 to 8.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to the invention, at least one emulsifier is contained in the composition according to the invention. The emulsifier stabilizes the emulsion. In general, an emulsion is understood to mean a heterogeneous system consisting of at least two liquids which are immiscible or have only a limited miscibility with each other and are generally referred to as phases. In an emulsion, one of the two liquids (water or oil) is dispersed in the other liquid (water or oil, respectively) in the form of very fine droplets. The liquids (pure or as solutions) are present in the emulsion in a more or less fine distribution, usually with only limited stability.

Emulsifiers help to combine two immiscible liquids in some way (e.g., oil-in-water), resulting in a stable formulation, i.e., an emulsion. For this purpose, the emulsifier must have amphiphilic properties, the hydrophobic part interacting with the oil or lipid phase and the hydrophilic part with the aqueous phase. By stirring or homogenizing, the resulting droplets are dispersed in the respective environment, i.e. aqueous droplets in a lipid environment or lipid droplets in an aqueous environment. First, the emulsifier does not have detersive surfactant properties. The emulsifier reduces the interfacial tension between the two phases and at the same time reduces the interfacial work and also stabilizes the emulsion formed. They stabilize the formed emulsion by the interfacial film and by forming a spatial or electrical barrier, thereby preventing coalescence (coalescence) of the emulsified particles.

The HLB value is suitable for characterizing an emulsifier, which value indicates the hydrophilicity of a given emulsifier. The HLB value can be determined by the following formula:

HLB＝20×(1-M_{lipophilic nature}/M)，

Wherein M is_{Lipophilic nature}Denotes the molar mass of the lipophilic part of a given emulsifier, and M denotes the molar mass of the total emulsifier.

Generally, emulsifiers having HLB values up to about 8 are considered W/O emulsifiers. In contrast, the HLB value of O/W emulsifiers is greater than 8 to 15. Substances with HLB values greater than 15 are often referred to as solubilizers.

Emulsifiers can be further classified as anionic, amphoteric and nonionic emulsifiers. According to the invention, nonionic emulsifiers are preferably present. Examples of nonionic emulsifiers are:

partial fatty acid esters and fatty acid esters of polyhydric alcohols and ethoxylated derivatives thereof (e.g. glycerol monostearate, sorbitan stearate, glycerol stearyl citrate, sucrose stearate), and

ethoxylated fatty alcohols and fatty acids.

The partial fatty acid esters may be monoglycerides of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18, carbon atoms, diglycerides of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18, carbon atoms. More preferably according to the invention, the emulsifier is a monoglyceride of a saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acid having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms, especially selected from the group consisting of glycerol monostearate, glycerol monoisostearate, glycerol monomyristate, glycerol monooleate, most preferably glycerol monostearate, commercially available from BASF as Cutina GMS V.

The ethoxylated derivative may be a polyethoxylated fatty acid ester having a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms and a degree of ethoxylation of 5 to 200. More preferably, according to the present invention, the emulsifier is selected from the group consisting of PEG-9 stearate, PEG-8 distearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-25 glyceryl trioleate, PEG-40 sorbitan lanolate, PEG-15 glyceryl ricinoleate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl oleate, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, PEG-30 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl laurate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl laurate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, and PEG-150 laurate. Most preferably, the compositions of the present invention comprise PEG-100 stearate. For example, PEG-100 stearate is commercially available from Croda as SP MYRJ S100 MBAL-PA- (SG) ET 80149.

The ethoxylated fatty alcohol may be chosen from ethoxylated stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol (cetostearyl alcohol), examples of which can be found in the following list: polyethylene glycol (13) stearyl ether (steareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) stearyl ether (steareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) stearyl ether (steareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) stearyl ether (steareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) stearyl ether (steareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) stearyl ether (steareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) stearyl ether (steareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) stearyl ether (steareth-20), polyethylene glycol (12) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-20), polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl ether (cetearyl-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl ether (cetearyl-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl ether (cetearyl-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetyl ether (cetearyl-16), polyethylene glycol (17) cetyl ether (cetearyl-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl ether (cetearyl-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl ether (cetearyl-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl ether (ceteth-20), polyethylene glycol (13) isocetyl ether (isocetyl-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isocetyl ether (isocetyl-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isocetyl ether (isocetyl-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isocetyl ether (isocetyl-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isocetyl ether (isocetyl-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isocetyl ether (isocetyl-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isocetyl ether (isocetyl-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isocetyl ether (isocetyl-20), polyethylene glycol (12) oleyl ether (oleyl-12), polyethylene glycol (13) oleyl ether (oleyl-13), polyethylene glycol (14) oleyl ether (oleyl-14), polyethylene glycol (15) oleyl ether (oleyl-ether-15), polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether (laureth-12), polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether (isolaureth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) cetearyl ether (ceteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetearyl ether (ceteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetearyl ether (ceteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetearyl ether (ceteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) cetearyl ether (ceteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetearyl ether (ceteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetearyl ether (ceteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetearyl ether (ceteareth-20). According to the invention, it is preferred to include polyethylene glycol (20) cetearyl ether (ceteareth-20) in the compositions of the invention.

According to the invention, it is advantageous if two emulsifiers having different HLB values, in particular three emulsifiers having different HLB values, are present. In a very advantageous embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate and polyethylene glycol (20) cetearyl ether (ceteareth-20). It is furthermore advantageous if the weight ratio of glyceryl stearate to PEG-100 stearate to polyethylene glycol (20) cetearyl ether (ceteareth-20) is from 2.5:1.5:0.45 to 1.5:1.5: 0.45.

According to the invention, the total content of said at least one emulsifier is from 1.0 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 2.0 to 5.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, according to the invention, the composition according to the invention additionally comprises at least one styling polymer. Styling polymers can create very small bridges between individual hairs or strands of hair, thereby securing the hair. Modeling polymers are known in the art. They can be classified into anionic polymers, nonionic polymers and cationic polymers.

According to the invention, it is preferred to include at least one nonionic structuring polymer in the compositions of the invention. The nonionic styling polymer may be a homopolymer of vinylpyrrolidone, a homopolymer of N-vinylformamide, or a homopolymer of N-vinylcaprolactam. Also suitable are copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate or copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and propionate or terpolymers of vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylamino methacrylate. According to the invention, preference is given to compositions according to the invention which comprise homopolymers of vinylpyrrolidone. Homopolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone are available from BASF as Luviskol K90 AT 1 lsg.20%.

If at least one styling polymer is present in the composition according to the invention, the at least one styling polymer is preferably present in a total amount of from 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 2.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The values refer to the active content of the styling polymer.

Advantageously, according to the invention, the composition of the invention additionally comprises at least one humectant. Humectants are hygroscopic substances that bind water and thereby provide moisture. This hygroscopic quality is due to the hydrophilic substituents of the molecule, in many cases hydroxyl groups, but other functional groups such as amine or carboxyl groups can fulfil the same function. Examples of humectants are propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, xylitol, maltitol, polydextrose, hydrogenated starch hydrolysates, urea, alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid, and/or honey. Preferred humectants are hydrogenated starch hydrolysates and/or propylene glycol.

If at least one humectant is present in the composition of the present invention, the at least one humectant is preferably present in a total amount of from 1.0 to 20.0 wt%, more preferably from 5.0 to 15.0 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, according to the invention, the composition of the invention additionally comprises at least one thickener. Thickeners are macromolecules having a predominantly linear configuration and also having varying degrees of intermolecular interaction forces that allow for secondary and primary valencies between the various residues of the molecule, thereby forming a network. Thickeners may be water soluble natural or synthetic polymers which form gels or viscous solutions in aqueous systems. They increase the viscosity of water by binding water molecules (hydration) or by absorbing and entrapping water in their macromolecules, which may be interlaced with each other; both effects result in limiting the mobility of water. Such water-soluble polymers represent a large group of chemically very different natural and synthetic polymers, which have in common the characteristic of their solubility in water or aqueous media. A prerequisite for water solubility is a sufficient number of hydrophilic groups to ensure water solubility and limited crosslinking. The hydrophilic group may be a nonionic group, an anionic group, or a cationic group.

Cosmetically relevant thickeners can be classified as follows:

organic, natural compounds, such as agar-agar, carrageenan, tragacanth, acacia, alginates, pectins, polysaccharides, guar flour, carob flour, starch, dextrin, gelatin, casein,

organic, modified natural substances, such as carboxymethylcellulose and other cellulose ethers, hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose, and the like,

organic, fully synthetic compounds, such as polyacrylic and polymethacrylic compounds, vinyl polymers, polycarboxylic acids, polyethers, polyimines, polyamides,

inorganic compounds, for example polysilicic acids, clay minerals such as montmorillonite, zeolites, silicas.

According to the invention, preference is given to the compositions according to the invention containing polyacrylates. More preferably a copolymer comprising one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or esters thereof and a C10-30 alkyl acrylate. More preferably, a copolymer having the INCI name "acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer" is selected. Such polymers are available, for example, from Lubrizol Advanced Materials under the trade name Carbopol Ultrez 21.

If at least one thickener is present in the composition according to the invention, the at least one thickener is preferably present in a total amount of from 0.05 to 1.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The values refer to the active content of the thickener.

Advantageously, according to the invention, the composition of the invention additionally comprises at least one preservative. All preservatives permitted and suitable for use in cosmetic preparations may be present. However, methyl paraben, ethyl paraben and phenoxyethanol, or mixtures thereof, are preferred. Other preservatives, such as benzyl alcohol, methylisothiazolinone, methylchloroisothiazolinone and/or DMDM hydantoin, may also be used. These preservatives can be used alone or in combination with the preferred preservatives described above.

If at least one preservative is present in the composition of the invention, the at least one preservative is preferably present in a total amount of 0.01 to 2.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.05 to 1.0 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition. The values refer to the active content of the preservative.

The pH of the composition of the invention can be adjusted in all ways suitable for cosmetic compositions. However, it is preferred to contain an appropriate amount of an inorganic or organic base, especially sodium hydroxide and/or potassium hydroxide, to adjust the pH. Advantageously, the pH of the composition of the invention is in the range of 5.5 to 8.5, preferably 6.5 to 7.5.

Detailed Description

The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention without limiting it. The values in the examples are given as weight percent based on the total weight of the particular formulation, in active content.

Preparation method

The compositions of the present invention may be prepared by any known or effective technique for preparing hair wax compositions. Methods of preparing the compositions of the present invention include conventional formulation and mixing techniques.

Specifically, the compositions of the present invention and comparative compositions are preferably produced using the following procedure (table 1 shows the detailed composition of the examples, table 3 shows the corresponding trade names and INCI names of the components):

heating the oily phase (for example C12-15 alkyl benzoate, dimethicone, glyceryl stearate, ceteareth-20, PEG-100 stearate, synthetic wax, carnauba wax (Copernicia Cerifera), beeswax, methylparaben and phenoxyethanol) to 90 ℃,

heating the aqueous phase (e.g. water, PEG-32, propylene glycol, hydrogenated starch hydrolysate, acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, trisodium EDTA) to 90 ℃,

-combining the two phases while stirring, then homogenizing the batch until homogeneous in appearance,

-adding sodium hydroxide and water, continuously stirring and homogenizing,

-cooling to 45 deg.C,

addition of styling polymers (e.g. PVP) and perfumes,

continuous stirring and cooling to room temperature.

Test method

In order to demonstrate that the hair wax composition without the fossil-derived wax or oil has comparable properties in terms of styling, holding and spreadability to hair wax compositions containing raw materials derived from fossil sources, a hair tress test was performed. The test was performed by the following procedure:

the compositions according to the invention (examples 1.1, 2 to 5) and the comparative compositions (examples 1, 6 to 11) were prepared, the compositions according to the invention being free of waxes of fossil origin and free of oils of fossil origin, while the comparative examples contain waxes and/or oils of fossil origin.

The 3-D hair tresses were washed using a standard shampoo and then rinsed until no shampoo and other residue remained. The hair tresses were allowed to dry at room temperature. 1.0g of the styling composition was evenly spread over 8g of dry hair tresses. Ten trained panelists evaluated the spreadability by giving a score on how easy the respective composition was to be applied to the hair. The easier the application, the higher the score obtained for the corresponding composition. The styling effect was evaluated by giving a score of how easily it was to erect the hair (from the horizontal position to the upright position). The easier it is to erect the hair, the higher the score obtained for the corresponding composition. The hold effect was evaluated by determining how long the pattern of the hair strand lasted. The longer the time, the higher the score obtained for the corresponding composition.

Each parameter is rated with a score between 1 and 10, where 1 means "poor" and 10 is equivalent to very good.

Table 3: trade name and INCI of compound:

observing the overall evaluation, it is clear that on average the hair wax compositions containing synthetic waxes produced by the fischer-tropsch synthesis (referred to as synthetic waxes) (examples 1.1, 2 to 5) are slightly better than the compositions containing raw materials of fossil origin (examples 1, 6 to 11). It is thus shown that the compositions of the invention do have properties at least at the same level or even better than those containing waxes and oils of fossil origin.

Observing the evaluations in more detail, it is clear that the compositions having a good evaluation in terms of spreadability mostly have a poor evaluation with respect to styling and holding effects (examples 2, 8, 9 and 10). The same is true for the opposite case, the example compositions having a good evaluation in terms of build and hold effect have a poor evaluation with respect to spreadability (examples 3, 4 and 5). Neither spreadability nor styling and holding effects should be too poor in order to provide a consumer acceptable product. Therefore, compositions that are not poorly rated with respect to spreadability and styling and hold effects are best suited to meet the desires of the consumer. Thus, the composition of example 1.1 can be considered as the optimal composition, and was not evaluated as poor in both categories. It is therefore clear that great care must be taken to maintain a delicate balance between good spreadability and good styling and holding effect.