阅读说明：本技术 包含支链烷烃和特定硅酮的组合的化妆品组合物 (Cosmetic composition comprising a combination of branched alkanes and specific silicones ) 是由 斯蒂芬妮·弗兰吉 朱莉·瓦朗坦 于 2020-04-02 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明的一个主题是一种优选为无水的化妆品组合物,其包含：a)一种或多种具有从8至16个碳原子的支链烷烃；b)一种或多种聚二甲基硅氧烷醇；c)一种或多种除聚二甲基硅氧烷醇以外的硅酮,其在25℃下具有小于200×10～(-6)m～(2)/s的粘度；以及d)一种或多种除聚二甲基硅氧烷醇以外的硅酮,其在25℃下具有范围从0.01m～(2)/s至1m～(2)/s的粘度,优选地,硅酮c)的总量相对于硅酮d)的总量的重量比的范围是从0.5至5。本发明的一个主题还是一种使用此组合物的美容处理方法以及还有所述组合物用于调理角蛋白纤维的用途。(One subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition, preferably anhydrous, comprising: a) one or more branched alkanes having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms; b) one or more dimethiconols; c) one or more silicones other than dimethiconol having less than 200 x 10 at 25 ℃ ‑6 m 2 Viscosity per second; and d) one or more silicones other than dimethiconol having a thickness ranging from 0.01m at 25 ℃ 2 S to 1m 2 Viscosity/s, preferably the weight ratio of the total amount of silicone c) to the total amount of silicone d) ranges from 0.5 to 5. A subject of the invention is also a cosmetic treatment process using this composition and also the use of the said composition for conditioning keratin fibres.)

1. A cosmetic composition comprising:

a) one or more branched alkanes having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms;

b) one or more dimethiconols;

c) one or more silicones other than dimethiconol having less than 200 x 10 at 25 ℃^-6m²Viscosity per second; and

d) one or more silicones other than dimethiconol having a range of from 0.01m at 25 ℃²S to 1m²Viscosity in/s.

2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the branched alkane is chosen from branched alkanes having from 10 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 14 carbon atoms, and more preferably 12 carbon atoms.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the branched alkane a) is present in a total content greater than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 30 to 95% by weight, more preferably from 35 to 90% by weight and even better still from 40 to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the dimethiconol is present in a total content ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight, better still from 1 to 10% by weight, even better still from 1.5 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the viscosity of the silicone c) is less than or equal to 180 x 10^-6m²S, more preferably less than or equal to 150X 10^-6m²S, and even more preferably less than or equal to 120 x 10^-6m²/s。

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone c) is chosen from:

c1) a linear silicone having from 2 to 9 silicon atoms; and

c2) a linear polydimethylsiloxane having more than 9 silicon atoms;

and is preferably selected from linear polydimethylsiloxanes having more than 9 silicon atoms.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone c) is present in a total content ranging from 1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 2 to 45% by weight and more preferably from 5 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is free of decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and preferably free of cyclopentasiloxane, and even more preferably free of cyclomethicone.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the viscosity of the silicone d) is from 0.01m²S to 0.8m²S, preferably from 0.01m²S to 0.7m²S, and even better still from 0.2m²S to 0.6m²In the range of/s.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone d) is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, preferably from polydimethylsiloxanes comprising trimethylsilyl end groups.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone d) is present in a total content ranging from 1 to 30% by weight, better still from 2 to 25% by weight and even better still from 3 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of the total amount of silicone c) to the total amount of silicone d) ranges from 0.5 to 5, more preferably from 0.6 to 4, better still from 0.7 to 3, or even from 0.8 to 2.5 and even better still from 1 to 2.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is anhydrous.

14. A method for the cosmetic treatment of human keratin fibres, such as the hair, comprising applying to the keratin fibres a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.

15. Use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 13 for conditioning keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.

Technical Field

The present invention relates to a composition intended for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising one or more branched alkanes, one or more dimethiconols and also a combination of low-and high-viscosity silicones.

The invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, in which such a composition is applied to the said fibres, and also to the use of this composition for caring for keratin fibres.

Background

Hair is often damaged and weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, and also mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent waving and/or relaxing (relaxing) or even repeated washing.

Thus, the hair is damaged by these various factors and may become dry, rough, brittle or dull over time, especially in fragile areas and more particularly at the ends.

Therefore, in order to overcome these drawbacks, it is common practice to rely on hair care products using compositions intended to condition the hair, giving it satisfactory cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of smoothness, gloss, softness, flexibility, lightness, natural feel and good disentangling properties.

These hair care compositions intended to be applied regularly to the hair may be, for example, hair conditioners, hair films or seras, and may be in the form of gels, hair lotions or creams, which are generally denser.

In particular, it is known practice to use compositions in the form of oily essences containing a combination of silicone oils or non-silicone oils.

However, such compositions still too often result in excessive lubrication of the keratin fibres, which results in the fibres having a greasy or even sticky feel, and a sparsely charged visual appearance.

Furthermore, compositions containing silicone oils, once applied to the hair, often result in a less pleasant to the touch effect, particularly if the hair has a tendency to be coarse and/or squeak (i.e. produce an unpleasant sound), particularly when the fingers slide along the hair from the root to the tail, rubbing the strands together.

Finally, the viscosity of these compositions is not always optimal and it is not possible to pack them in pump dispenser bottles.

Disclosure of Invention

The present invention aims to provide a composition which does not have the above-mentioned drawbacks and which is capable of conditioning keratin fibres in a long-lasting manner, in particular by imparting good cosmetic properties to the keratin fibres.

This object is achieved by the present invention, the subject of which is in particular a cosmetic, preferably anhydrous, composition comprising:

a) one or more branched alkanes having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms;

b) one or more dimethiconols;

c) one or more silicones other than dimethiconol having less than 200 x 10 at 25 ℃^{- 6}m²Viscosity/s (200 cSt); and

d) one or more silicones other than dimethiconol having a range of from 0.01m at 25 ℃²S to 1m²Viscosity per second;

preferably, the weight ratio of the total amount of silicone c) to the total amount of silicone d) ranges from 0.5 to 5.

The composition according to the invention enables very satisfactory conditioning of keratin fibres. In particular, it makes it possible to significantly improve the gloss, softness, ease of disentangling of the hair, without making it thin or greasy. Keratin fibers remain light, soft, and easy to shape and model. They are visually non-greasy, non-greasy to the touch and non-squeaking when to the touch.

The composition also enables the nourishment and repair of damaged hair, particularly at the ends, and contributes to the styling and straightening of curly or curly hair.

Finally, the composition according to the invention has a suitable viscosity, so as to enable its packaging in a pump dispenser bottle. It is neither too fluid nor too viscous and can be dispensed by a pump system.

The subject of the present invention is also a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, in which a composition according to the invention is applied to keratin fibres.

Another subject of the invention relates to the use of a composition as defined previously for conditioning keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.

Detailed Description

Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent after reading the following description and examples.

In this specification and unless otherwise indicated:

the expression "at least one" is equivalent to, and can be replaced by, the expression "one or more;

the expression "between" is equivalent to the expression "ranging from and can be substituted by" and means that the limit values are included.

According to the present application, the term "keratin fibres" means human keratin fibres and more particularly the hair.

Throughout the following, the term "silicone" denotes, as acknowledged, any silicone polymer or oligomer, of linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and/or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and essentially formed by the main recurring units in which the silicon atoms are linked together via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond-Si-O-Si-), an optionally substituted hydrocarbon group being directly linked to said silicon atoms via a carbon atom. The most common hydrocarbyl groups are alkyl, especially C₁-C₁₀Alkyl and especially methylFluoroalkyl whose alkyl moiety is C₁-C₁₀) And aryl is in particular phenyl.

In a manner known per se, the viscosity of the silicone, which is kinematic viscosity, is at 25 ℃ and at atmospheric pressure (1atm, 1.013X 10)⁵Pa) measured according to standard ASTM 445, appendix C.

The weight average molecular weight of the silicone can be measured as polystyrene equivalents by Gel Permeation Chromatography (GPC) at ambient temperature (25 ℃). The column used was a mu polystyrene type cross-linked copolymer column. The eluent was THF and the flow rate was 1 ml/min. 200 μ l of a 0.5 wt% solution of silicone in THF was injected. Detection was by refractometry and UV measurement.

Branched alkane a):

the compositions according to the invention contain one or more branched alkanes comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 16 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 14 carbon atoms.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "alkane" is intended to mean a saturated linear compound formed only from carbon and hydrogen atoms.

The branched alkanes according to the invention correspond to formula C_nH_2n+2Wherein n is an integer ranging from 8 to 16, preferably from 10 to 16, more preferably from 10 to 14.

These compounds may advantageously be chosen from isohexadecane, isododecane, isodecane and isooctane.

Particularly preferably, the branched alkane according to the present invention comprises 12 carbon atoms. A particularly preferred compound is isododecane.

The branched alkanes a) are advantageously present in a total content of greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the branched alkanes a) are present in a total content ranging from 30 to 95% by weight, better still from 35 to 90% by weight and even better still from 40 to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention contains isododecane in a content ranging from 30 to 95% by weight, better still from 35 to 90% by weight, even better still from 40 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Dimethiconol b):

the name dimethiconol denotes, in a manner known per se, a polydimethylsiloxane comprising dimethylsilanol end groups.

Preferably, the dimethiconol according to the invention has a weight average molecular weight (Mw) of more than 1000 dalton, preferably more than 10000 dalton, more preferably more than 50000 dalton, still better more than 100000 dalton.

As the known compound, there can be specifically mentioned a compound having an INCI name of dimethiconol proposed by Dow Corning (Dow Corning) under the trade names Dow Corning 1515 Gum and Dowsil 1515 Gum.

Dimethiconol is advantageously present in a total content ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight, better still from 1 to 10% by weight, even better still from 1.5 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Silicone c):

the composition according to the invention contains one or more silicones having a viscosity of less than 200X 10 at 25 ℃^-6m²Viscosity per s (200 cSt).

Preferably, the viscosity of the silicone c) is less than or equal to 180 x 10^-6m²S, more preferably less than or equal to 150X 10^{- 6}m²S, and even more preferably less than or equal to 120 x 10^-6m²/s。

The silicones c) are not dimethiconols, that is to say they are not dimethicones comprising dimethiconol end groups.

Silicone c) is more particularly selected from volatile silicones.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile silicone" is intended to mean a silicone that, when in contact with the skin or hair at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, takes less than one hourSilicone capable of evaporating therein. Such silicones have in particular a range from 0.13 to 40000 Pa (10)^-3To 300mmHg), particularly ranging from 1.3 to 13000 Pa (0.01 to 100mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 to 1300Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

The silicones c) are more preferably selected from those having a boiling point ranging from 60 ℃ to 260 ℃, and even more particularly from:

c1) a linear silicone having from 2 to 9 silicon atoms.

The silicone preferably has a viscosity of less than or equal to 6 x 10 at 25 ℃^-6m²A viscosity of/s (6cSt), more preferably less than or equal to 5X 10 at 25 ℃^-6m²Viscosity per s (5 cSt).

Mention may be made, for example, of heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

c2) In particular a linear polydimethylsiloxane having more than 9 silicon atoms.

Such polydimethylsiloxanes are preferably selected from compounds of the formula: (CH)₃)₃SiO[Si(CH₃)₂O]_nSi(CH₃)₃Wherein n ranges from 8 to 100 and preferably from 8 to 20.

According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone c) is chosen from linear polydimethylsiloxanes c2) having more than 9 silicon atoms.

Preferably, the silicone c) has a weight average molecular weight (Mw) of less than 2000 daltons, preferably less than 1000 daltons.

The silicone c) is advantageously present in a total content ranging from 1 to 50% by weight, better still from 2 to 45% by weight and even better still from 5 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of cyclomethicones, that is to say of cyclomethicones, in particular cyclomethicones containing from 4 to 6 silicon atoms.

The expression "free of cyclomethicones" is intended to mean that the composition according to the invention does not comprise cyclomethicones, or that when the composition according to the invention contains one or more cyclomethicones, the latter are present in a total content of less than or equal to 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.05% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, even better still that the composition is completely free of cyclomethicones (0% by weight).

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of cyclopentasiloxane.

The expression "free of cyclopentasiloxane" is intended to mean that the composition according to the invention does not comprise cyclopentasiloxane, or that, when the composition according to the invention contains one or more cyclopentasiloxanes, the latter is present in a total content of less than or equal to 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.05% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, even better still the composition is completely free of cyclopentasiloxane (0% by weight).

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

The expression "free of decamethylcyclopentasiloxane" is intended to mean that the composition according to the invention does not comprise decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, or that, when the composition according to the invention contains decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, this compound is present in a total content of less than or equal to 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.05% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, even better still that the composition is completely free of decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (0% by weight).

Silicone d):

the composition according to the invention contains one or more silicones having a thickness ranging from 0.01m at 25 ℃²S to 1m²Viscosity in/s.

Preferably, the viscosity of the silicone d) is from 0.01m²(10000 cSt) to 0.8m²S (800000 cSt), still better from 0.01m²(10000 cSt) to 0.7m²S (700000 cSt), even better from 0.2m²(200000 cSt) to 0.6m²(600000 cSt).

PreferablySilicone d) at 25 ℃ and atmospheric pressure (1.013X 10)⁵Pa) is liquid.

The silicones d) are not dimethiconols, that is to say they are not dimethicones comprising dimethylsilanol end groups.

The silicone d) is more particularly chosen from non-volatile silicones. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-volatile silicone" is intended to mean a silicone having a saturated vapour pressure of less than 0.13Pa (0.01 mmHg).

Preferably, the silicone d) has a weight average molecular weight (Mw) greater than 50000 dalton, more preferably ranging from 100000 to 500000 dalton, and better still ranging from 200000 to 400000 dalton.

The silicone d) is more preferably selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, and in particular from polydimethylsiloxanes comprising trimethylsilyl end groups, also known by the names dimethylsilicone and PDMS.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be mentioned in a non-limiting manner:

series 47 and 70047 sold by RhodiaOil orOils, such as oil 70047V 500000;

sold by the company RodiyaA series of oils;

200 series of oils from Dow Corning, such as having 60000 mm²DC200 fluid of viscosity/s, and a Xiameter PMX 200 silicone fluid 500000 cSt or 300000 cSt;

from General ElectricOil, and SF series from general electric company(SF 96, SF 18).

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the silicone d) is chosen from Polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) comprising trimethylsilyl end groups.

The silicone d) is advantageously present in a total content ranging from 1 to 30% by weight, better still from 2 to 25% by weight, even better still from 3 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention contains the silicones c) and d) described above in amounts such that the weight ratio of the total amount of silicone c) to the total amount of silicone d) ranges from 0.5 to 5. Preferably, this weight ratio ranges from 0.5 to 5, more preferably from 0.6 to 4, still better from 0.7 to 3, or even from 0.8 to 2.5 and even better still from 1 to 2.

Composition (A):

according to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is anhydrous, that is to say it comprises a water content of less than or equal to 4% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 2% by weight, more preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight, even more preferably less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is completely free of water (0%).

The composition according to the invention is advantageously transparent, which makes it particularly attractive in aesthetic appearance, being of high interest to the user.

The composition according to the invention is advantageously in the form of a transparent to translucent, more preferably transparent fluid.

The transparency of the composition according to the invention can be characterized by its turbidity measured by turbidimetry (in NTU). In the context of the present invention, the turbidity measurements were carried out using a turbidimeter from Hanna Instruments, model HI 88713-ISO.

Preferably, the turbidity of the composition according to the invention measured at ambient temperature (25 ℃) and atmospheric pressure (1atm) is less than 400 NTU units, still better less than 300 NTU units, in particular between 0 and 250 NTU units, or even between 0 and 200 NTU units, still better between 0 and 100 NTU units, and even still better between 1 and 80 NTU units.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a dynamic viscosity at ambient pressure and temperature (25 ℃; 1atm) of less than 1000mPa/s, in particular ranging from 80 to 500mPa/s, or even from 90 to 400mPa/s, better still from 100 to 300 mPa/s.

Dynamic viscosity can be measured using an MCR 502 rotational rheometer from Anton Paar, with a cone/plate diameter of 50mm/1 ° (sanded steel at 5 μm); the rotating speed is 200 r/min; the measurement was carried out at 25 ℃ under 1 atm.

The compositions according to the invention may contain, in addition to the compounds a), b), c) and d) described above, additives such as, for example, fragrances and fatty substances.

These additives may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

One of ordinary skill in the art will be careful to select these optional additives and their amounts so that they do not detract from the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

The composition according to the invention is advantageously packaged in a non-aerosol device, such as in particular a pump dispenser bottle.

The cosmetic treatment method comprises the following steps:

the subject of the present invention is also a method for the cosmetic treatment of human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising the application to the said fibres of a composition as described above.

The composition can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibres, which have optionally been shampooed. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is applied to wet keratin fibres.

According to one embodiment, the keratin fibres are then rinsed with water, and optionally washed with a shampoo and then rinsed with water, and then dried or left to dry.

In this example, the composition according to the invention is applied for a residence time which may range from 1 to 15 minutes and preferably from 2 to 10 minutes.

According to a preferred embodiment, the keratin fibres are not rinsed after application of the composition. They may then be subjected to thermal and/or mechanical treatment to dry and/or shape, for example by hot nip straightening.

The application is as follows:

the invention also relates to the use of a composition as described above for conditioning keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.

The composition can be applied in a rinse-off or leave-on mode, and preferably in a leave-on mode (that is to say without rinsing the keratin fibres after application of the composition), on wet or dry hair.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention, but are not limiting in nature.

Examples of the invention

In the following examples, all amounts are given as mass percent of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated.

The viscosity of the composition can be measured using an MCR 502 rotational rheometer from antopa corporation, with a cone/plate diameter of 50mm/1 ° (sanding steel at 5 μm); the rotating speed is 200 r/min; the measurement was carried out at 25 ℃ under 1 atm.

Example 1:

the following compositions were prepared from the ingredients with the amounts indicated in the table below.

[ Table 1]

(1) Marketed under the name Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone fluid 500000 cSt by Dow Corning

(2) Sold by Dow Corning under the name Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone fluid 5cSt

(3) Sold under the name Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone fluid 2cSt by Dow Corning

(4) Marketed under the name Dow Corning 1515 Gum by Dow Corning Inc

All compositions a to D were very transparent (haze 0 or 1). These compositions leave clean and non-tacky feel and soft hair after application to the hair.

Example 2:

the following compositions were prepared from the ingredients with the amounts indicated in the table below.

[ Table 2]

Composition comprising a metal oxide and a metal oxide	E
		Dimethicone (1) with a viscosity of 300000 cSt	17.5
Dimethicone (2) with a viscosity of 100cSt	22.5
		Dimethicone (3) with a viscosity of 5cSt	12
Dimethylsiloxanol (4)	1.5
		Isododecane	The proper amount is 100 percent
Silicone c/silicone d weight ratio	2
		Dynamic viscosity of the composition	226

(1) Sold by Dow Corning under the name Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone fluid 300000 cSt

(2) Marketed under the name Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone fluid 100cSt by Dow Corning

(3) Sold by Dow Corning under the name Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone fluid 5cSt

(4) Marketed under the name Dow Corning 1515 Gum by Dow Corning Inc

Composition E was very clear (haze 0 or 1). The composition leaves clean and non-tacky feel and soft hair after application to the hair.

Comparative example 3:

the following comparative composition K was prepared from the ingredients with the amounts indicated in the table below.

[ Table 3]

Composition comprising a metal oxide and a metal oxide	K
		Dimethicone (1) having a viscosity of 500000 cSt	-
Dimethicone (2) with a viscosity of 5cSt	-
		Dimethicone (3) with a viscosity of 100cSt	25
Dimethylsiloxanol (4)	10
		Isododecane	65
Silicone c/silicone d weight ratio	Is not defined
		Dynamic viscosity of the composition	349

(1) Marketed under the name Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone fluid 500000 cSt by Dow Corning

(2) Sold by Dow Corning under the name Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone fluid 5cSt

(3) Marketed under the name Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone fluid 100cSt by Dow Corning

(4) Marketed under the name Dow Corning 1515 Gum by Dow Corning Inc

The composition was very clear (haze 0 or 1). However, after application to the hair, it leaves an unclean visual appearance, with the entire head of hair sticky and stiff on the hands.