Fabric presenting different patterns at different viewing angles and manufacturing method thereof
阅读说明：本技术 一种在不同观看角度呈现不同图案的织物及其制造方法 (Fabric presenting different patterns at different viewing angles and manufacturing method thereof ) 是由 金英爱 毕晓琳 高树立 于 2020-11-18 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明提出一种在不同观看角度呈现不同图案的织物及其制备方法,其由经线和纬线交织而成,其特征在于：以二重或三重纬纱的重纬组织为基础,其中一纬纱为里层纬纱Wc,其余纬纱为表层纬纱WA或和WB；所述里层纬线Wc采用热处理收缩率高的纱线做全浮线设置,在织造完成后对织物进行热定型处理,所述里层纬纱Wc缩短,从而使得同层的二重或三重纬纱形成多个并排的等腰三角型结构,其中,表层纬纱构成三角形的两个腰边,预先在左腰边和右腰边部分做不同图案的组织设计进行织造,即可以在织物热定型后形成不同角度观看呈现不同图案的织物。(The invention provides a fabric presenting different patterns at different viewing angles and a preparation method thereof, wherein the fabric is formed by interweaving warps and wefts, and is characterized in that: based on the double weft organization of double or triple weft yarns, wherein one weft yarn is an inner layer weft yarn Wc, and the other weft yarns are surface layer weft yarns WA or WB; the inner layer weft yarns Wc are arranged in a full-floating mode by adopting yarns with high heat treatment shrinkage, the fabric is subjected to heat setting treatment after weaving is completed, the inner layer weft yarns Wc are shortened, so that double or triple weft yarns on the same layer form a plurality of side-by-side isosceles triangle structures, the surface layer weft yarns form two triangular waist edges, and weave is performed by performing organization design of different patterns on the left waist edge and the right waist edge in advance, so that the fabric which presents different patterns can be observed at different angles after the fabric is subjected to heat setting.)
1. A fabric presenting different patterns at different viewing angles is formed by interweaving warps and wefts, and is characterized in that: based on the double weft structure of double or triple weft yarns, wherein one weft yarn is an inner weft yarn Wc, and the other weft yarns are surface weft yarns WAOr and WB(ii) a The inner layer weft yarns Wc are arranged in a full-floating mode by adopting yarns with high heat treatment shrinkage rate, the fabric is subjected to heat setting treatment after weaving is finished, the inner layer weft yarns Wc are shortened, so that double or triple weft yarns on the same layer form a plurality of side-by-side isosceles triangle structures, wherein the surface layer weft yarns form two waist edges of a triangle, and the left waist edge L is arranged in advanceLeft side ofAnd the right waist edge LRight sideAnd the fabric with different patterns can be viewed from different angles after the fabric is subjected to heat setting by partially making weave designs with different patterns.
2. The fabric according to claim 1, wherein the inner layer weft yarns Wc have a higher shrinkage ratio than the yarns of the inner layer weft yarns Wc, and are selected from the group consisting of shrinkable yarns, spandex yarns and high stretch yarns.
3. The fabric with different patterns at different viewing angles as claimed in claim 2, wherein the length L of 2 waist edges formed by the surface weft yarnsLeft side of＝LRight side4-5 mm.
4. A fabric with different patterns at different viewing angles according to claim 3, wherein a 0.8-1.2 mm edge L is arranged between two adjacent triangles of the weftWorkshopForm an L between two adjacent trianglesWorkshopAnd spacing strips of width to hold the lining wefts, the lining wefts between two adjacent beads being floats.
5. The fabric according to claim 4, wherein the spacer tapes have a width LWorkshop1 mm.
6. A method for preparing a fabric presenting different patterns at different viewing angles according to any one of claims 1 to 5, comprising the steps of:
(1) designing a pattern associated with the two patterns;
(2) determining the size of a pattern picture, and filling the pattern with the three-color strip unit, wherein the three-color strip unit consists of a left strip, a right strip and a spacing strip which are sequentially arranged and have the same width and are used for pattern coverage; respectively carrying out equal-width segmentation on the two related patterns, and covering the two related patterns on the left strip and the right strip covered by the two patterns at intervals to obtain a complete fabric plan;
(3) designing a fabric weave according to the fabric plan obtained in the step (2) to generate a card;
(4) selecting a warp and weft yarn combination, and weaving according to the card obtained in the step (3) after yarn arrangement to obtain a plane fabric;
(5) and (4) carrying out heat setting treatment on the plane fabric obtained in the step (4), so that the weft yarns on the inner layer of the fabric shrink to form a weft yarn triangular structure, and forming woven fabric to obtain the fabric presenting different patterns at different viewing angles.
7. The method of claim 6, wherein the pattern is a plain backing weave and the pattern is a four-ply weave for a pattern with multiple color gradations.
8. A method of producing a fabric according to claim 7 wherein the weft yarn arrangement in the rows is of a triple weft construction and the warp yarn arrangement is of a single warp or double warp construction.
9. A method of producing a fabric having different patterns of observation at different angles according to claim 8 wherein the heat-setting temperature is 160 ℃.
10. A method for making a fabric exhibiting different patterns at different viewing angles according to claim 9 wherein the fabric is heat set to provide a final product that is drawn from the on-machine 160 inner width and set to 130 shrinkage of 18.75%.
11. The method of claim 10, wherein the width of the pattern is determined according to the structure of the loom and the density of the fabric, and the height of the pattern is determined according to the size of the fabric; the size of the pattern design is determined according to the apparent warp and weft density and the size of the floret of the fabric.
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of spinning, and particularly relates to a fabric presenting different patterns at different viewing angles and a manufacturing method thereof.
Background
The existing fabrics are generally formed by repeatedly interweaving two groups of mutually vertical yarns, namely warp yarns and weft yarns, according to a certain rule on a weaving machine, and are various in types, such as organic fabrics, knitted fabrics, non-woven fabrics and the like.
In the fabric, the law that warp yarns and weft yarns are staggered or float and sink to form certain grains and patterns on the surface of the fabric is called fabric texture, and the intersection of the warp yarns and the weft yarns is called a texture point and is also called a floating point; when the warp yarn floats on the weft yarn, the warp yarn is called a warp structure point or a warp floating point; the weft yarn on the warp yarn is called weft structure point or weft floating point. When the warp and weft points float and sink regularly to reach the circulation, it is called a tissue circulation or a complete tissue.
Common fabric textures are: three-primary structure (basic structure), small pattern structure, large pattern structure, complex structure and the like. Wherein the three primary tissues comprise: plain weave, twill weave, satin weave.
The plain weave is formed by interweaving warp yarns and weft yarns one over the other, and is the simplest weave in a fabric weave (see fig. 1). The twill weave is a weave with obvious oblique lines on the surface of the fabric, including right twill and left twill (see fig. 2). The satin weave is the single and discontinuous warp weave points or weft weave points which are regularly and evenly distributed in the weave circulation, the warp threads or the weft threads of the satin weave are longer in floating line, and the weave points are fewer. The single tissue points are covered by the floating long lines of the other system of yarns at two sides of the single tissue points, and the surface of the fabric is provided with the warp floating long lines or the weft floating long lines, so that the surface of the fabric is rich in luster, soft and smooth in hand feeling and most noble and gorgeous.
The small pattern is formed by combining the three basic pattern changes.
The complex weave is formed by two or more systems of yarns in at least one direction in the fabric, and comprises multiple varieties of double weave, fluffed weave, towel weave, double weave, leno weave and the like. The complex texture fabric is thickened under the condition of not increasing the yarn number, so that the heat retention property is improved; or the characteristics of the two-side weave are utilized, and the reasonable color yarn configuration is adopted to generate different color effects.
The double weave in the complex weave is a weave in which one system of warp yarns and two systems of weft yarns in the surface and the inner are woven alternately or one system of weft yarns and two systems of warp yarns in the surface and the inner are woven alternately so that the two systems of yarns are arranged in the fabric in an overlapping manner. The former is called weft duplex, and the latter is called warp duplex. The weft yarns of the two systems of the surface and the inner are overlapped and covered in the fabric, the arrangement ratio of the weft yarns is 1:1, namely, the weft yarns of the surface and the inner are various, 2:1, 2:2 and the like, and the weft yarns of the two systems can be selected according to the design of the fabric. The surface weft and the inner weft are interwoven with the warp to form the front and the back of the fabric respectively, and the interweaving rules are called surface texture and inner texture respectively.
The fabric woven by the double weave is equivalent to that the back side of a common fabric is lined with another system of warp yarns or weft yarns, so that the fabric is heavy and thick and has good heat retention property; when the yarns of the surface system and the inner system adopt different colors, a plurality of color effects can be generated on the surface of the fabric.
Although the prior fabrics have different patterns, materials, textures, purposes and the like, the prior fabrics all have the same common point that the same cloth surface of the prior fabrics only has a single pattern, and the patterns presented by the fabrics are the same pattern no matter how the visual angle is changed.
Disclosure of Invention
The first purpose of the present invention is to provide a fabric presenting different patterns at different viewing angles, so that the fabric can present different patterns when viewed from different angles, thereby increasing the ornamental value and the interest of the fabric.
A second object of the present invention is to provide a method for manufacturing the above fabric exhibiting different patterns at different viewing angles.
The first object of the present invention can be achieved by the following technical measures: a fabric presenting different patterns at different viewing angles is formed by interweaving warps and wefts, and is characterized in that: based on the double weft organization of double or triple weft yarns, wherein one weft yarn is an inner layer weft yarn Wc, and the other weft yarns are surface layer weft yarns WA or WB; the inner layer weft yarns Wc are arranged in a full-floating mode by adopting yarns with high heat treatment shrinkage, the fabric is subjected to heat setting treatment after weaving is completed, the inner layer weft yarns Wc are shortened, so that double or triple weft yarns on the same layer form a plurality of side-by-side isosceles triangle structures, the surface layer weft yarns form two triangular waist edges, and weave designs of different patterns are made on the left waist edge L and the right waist edge L in advance, so that the fabric presenting different patterns can be viewed at different angles after the fabric is subjected to heat setting.
The design inspiration of the invention comes from a paper folding pattern test, the paper is folded into a corrugated strip structure through paper folding, two different colors/patterns are placed on two sides of the strip, and the picture phenomenon is observed, so that the different colors/patterns can be seen on two sides of the corrugated strip of the paper folding. The inventor designs a fabric with a plurality of isosceles-delta-shaped structures which are sequentially arranged on any cross section of the fabric, namely heavy weft yarns on the weft yarn layer of any layer, designs the structures of different patterns on two waist parts of a triangle, namely the left waist L and the right waist L in advance, finishes the weaving of the fabric by a weaving machine, and performs heat setting on the fabric to ensure that the weft yarns of the inner layer are obviously contracted. Because the inner weft adopts the full float design, divide a plurality of equal length sections on whole inner weft promptly, press the blank at every section length both ends, like this, after the inner weft shortens in the length L between every two adjacent blank presses, can lead to L in < L left + L right, thereby form isosceles triangle, weave the surface promptly and formed flute strip structure, walk to one side in addition from one side of this fabric, can see two or three different pictures.
The inner layer weft yarns Wc of the invention can be shrinkable yarns, spandex yarns or high-elastic yarns with higher shrinkage. The inventor finds that the three yarns have the characteristics that:
shrinking the silk: the stereoscopic effect is best, the corner turning of the triangle can be presented, and the hand feeling is hard;
② spandex silk: the turning angle of the triangle can be shown, but the turning angle is relatively bent relative to the shrinkage yarn, and the hand feeling is relatively hard;
high stretch yarn: the touch feeling is three-dimensional, the hand feeling is soft, but the three-dimensional effect is weak visually.
Thus, the inner weft yarns Wc of the present invention preferentially shrink filaments.
The invention designs the fabric pattern, preferably to make the two figures have relation, the pattern related with the pattern can be different colors of blank pattern, can also be different shape patterns of the same theme, and can also be different colors of different themes. The choice of the associated pattern is not limited to the above-mentioned cases.
In order to enable the cloth cover of the outermost layer to naturally stand up when being contracted by the contraction yarns of the bottommost layer, the double weft structure is preferably controlled within the range of triple weft yarns.
The length of 2 waist edges formed by the surface layer weft yarns is equal, namely L left is equal to L right, and the L left is equal to L right and is 4-5 mm preferably. In order to stabilize the triangular structure of the weft yarn, a space between 0.8-1.2 mm blank pressing L is arranged between two adjacent triangles to form a spacing strip with the length of L between the two adjacent triangles so as to clamp the weft yarn on the inner layer, and the weft yarn on the inner layer between the two adjacent blank pressing L is a floating line.
The surface weft yarn is formed by three-color strip units of a fabric formed by a space between L left, L right and L, a plurality of three-color strip units are arranged side by side to form a complete fabric, two patterns are woven at the positions of the L left strip and the L right strip through tissue design respectively, and the L left strip and the L right strip are called as a left strip and a right strip for short.
In order to realize the second invention purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:
a method of manufacturing a fabric presenting different patterns at different viewing angles, comprising the steps of:
(1) designing a pattern associated with the two patterns;
(2) determining the size of a pattern picture, and filling the pattern with the three-color strip unit, wherein the three-color strip unit consists of a left strip, a right strip and a spacing strip which are sequentially arranged and have the same width and are used for pattern coverage; respectively carrying out equal-width segmentation on the two related patterns, and covering the two related patterns on the left strip and the right strip covered by the two patterns at intervals to obtain a complete fabric plan;
(3) designing a fabric weave according to the fabric plan obtained in the step (2) to generate a card;
(4) selecting a warp and weft yarn combination, and weaving according to the card obtained in the step (3) after yarn arrangement to obtain a plane fabric;
(5) and (4) carrying out heat setting treatment on the plane fabric obtained in the step (4), so that the weft yarns on the inner layer of the fabric shrink to form a weft yarn triangular structure, and forming woven fabric to obtain the fabric presenting different patterns at different viewing angles.
The method is based on the corrugated structure of the folded paper pattern, the fabric is subjected to pattern design, so that two connected patterns are arranged at intervals for weaving, a warp and weft combined material is selected and contracted after heat setting treatment, the fabric is enabled to form a triangular structure, the triangular structure is enabled to be more stable by optimizing the arrangement interval of the patterns and a yarn arrangement mode, the observed patterns and colors are clear, the colors are enabled to be fuller by designing the fabric texture, and finally the fabric presenting different patterns at different observation angles is manufactured.
In the invention, the width of the pattern is determined according to the installation of the weaving machine and the warp and weft density of the finished fabric, and the height of the pattern is determined according to the actual design requirement.
Preferably, the apparent thread count of the finished product is 108X27 threads/cm and the pattern size is 130X180 cm.
In the invention, the size of the pattern is determined according to the apparent warp and weft density of the non-triangular area of the fabric and the size of the floret.
Preferably, the warp and weft density in the pattern design is 96X27 counts/cm and the pattern size is 146X180 cm.
In the present invention, a plain backing weave is used for the weave design of a pattern having a different color, and four weaves are used as the backing weave for a pattern having a large number of color gradations. This makes the color more saturated.
In the invention, the yarn material in the warp and weft combination is selected from polyester low stretch yarn and shrinkage yarn. The polyester material has good resilience, and finally the fabric can form a triangular structure through the difference of shrinkage rates of different yarns.
In the invention, the weft arrangement in the weft arrangement preferably adopts a triple weft structure, and the warp arrangement adopts a single warp or double warp structure.
In the invention, the fabric is woven by adopting a jacquard loom.
In the invention, the heat setting temperature is 160-170 ℃.
In the invention, after the fabric is subjected to heat setting treatment, the fabric shrinks from 160 cm on the machine to 130 cm after setting, and the shrinkage rate reaches 18.75%.
The invention has the following beneficial effects:
(1) the invention can obtain the fabric presenting different patterns at different viewing angles and the manufacturing method thereof, can weave two or three related patterns at intervals, then shrink the weft yarn to form a three-dimensional triangular structure through heat setting, form a corrugated strip structure on the surface of the fabric, weave different colors or patterns on two corrugated strips, and realize that different colors or different patterns can be viewed at different angles, break through the current situation of the traditional fabric, enrich the colors and patterns of a single fabric, and increase the ornamental value and the interest.
(2) According to the invention, the space between the three-color strips, the combination of the warp yarns and the weft yarns and the yarn arrangement are optimized, so that a triangular structure formed by the fabric is more stable, the display of colors and patterns is clearer, and the visual effect is better; by means of design organization, the pattern with multiple color levels is full in color.
(3) The color or pattern changing fabric of the present invention is a new form of fabric design, opening up a new market for fabric design, advancing the historical progression of fabric design. For consumers, not only the selection is increased, but also the impression of the traditional fabric is broken, and different preferences of people can be better met. For manufacturers, pattern changing fabrics open a new market for fabric design, providing new demands for the market, and improving market competitiveness.
Drawings
FIGS. 1A and 1B are a weave diagram and a structure diagram, respectively, of a plain weave of a conventional fabric;
FIGS. 2A and 2B are a weave diagram and a structure diagram, respectively, of a twill weave of a conventional fabric;
FIG. 3A and FIG. 3B are a weave diagram and a structure diagram, respectively, of a prior art fabric satin weave;
FIG. 4 is a schematic representation of the weft yarn structure in cross section of the fabric of this invention;
FIG. 5 is a partially enlarged triangular construction of the double weft yarn of FIG. 4;
FIG. 6 is an enlarged fragmentary view of the triangular construction of the triple weft yarns of FIG. 4;
fig. 7 and 8 are two associated pattern designs in example 1: lunar map and lunar photography fault map;
FIG. 9 is a structural view of a three-color band in example 1; FIG. 10 is a plan view of the completed fabric of example 1; FIG. 11 is a moon pattern as viewed on the left side of the fabric of example 1;
FIG. 12 is a pattern of FIG. 7 superimposed on FIG. 8 as seen in the center of the fabric of example 1;
FIG. 13 is a lunar photographic failure pattern as seen on the right side of the fabric for example 1;
fig. 14 and 15 are two associated pattern designs in example 2: two distant mountains photographed at different times;
FIG. 16 is the pattern of FIG. 14 as seen on the left side of the fabric for example 2;
FIG. 17 is a superimposed pattern of FIGS. 14 and 15 as seen in the center of the fabric of example 2;
FIG. 18 is the pattern of FIG. 15 as seen on the right side of the fabric for example 2;
FIGS. 19 and 20 show two patterns related to the embodiment 3;
FIG. 21 is the pattern of FIG. 19 as seen on the left side of the fabric for example 3;
FIG. 22 is a superimposed pattern of FIGS. 19 and 20 as seen in the center of the fabric of example 3;
figure 23 is the pattern of figure 20 as seen on the right side of the fabric for example 3.
FIG. 24 shows the design parameters of the woven structure in example 1.
The notation in fig. 4 illustrates:
l, left: the length of the left waist edge in the weft triangular unit or the width of a left strip;
l right: the length of the right waist edge in the weft triangular unit or the width of a right strip;
and L is as follows: the blank pressing or the width of the spacing strip is arranged between two adjacent triangles of the weft;
fig. 5 and 6 are not structural diagrams of the fabric, wherein the notations indicate:
the circle designated by J is a schematic representation of a warp yarn; WA, WB: surface weft indicating lines; wc: the inner layer wefts indicate lines.
Detailed Description
The technical solution of the present invention will be described in detail with reference to specific examples.
Example 1
The fabric shown in fig. 4 to 13, which shows different patterns at different viewing angles, is an example 1 of the present invention, and is formed by interweaving warp yarns J and triple weft yarns WA, WB and Wc, wherein the weft yarns Wc are inner layer weft yarns, and the WA and WB weft yarns are surface layer weft yarns; the inner layer weft yarns Wc are arranged in a full floating mode by adopting shrink yarns, and are shortened after the fabric is subjected to heat setting treatment after weaving is finished, so that the triple weft yarns WA, WB and Wc on the same layer form an isosceles triangle structure, wherein the surface layer weft yarns WA and WB form two triangular waist edges, the left part of the left waist edge L and the right part of the right waist edge L are subjected to weave in advance by adopting different pattern weave designs, and the obtained fabric can be seen at different angles to form fabrics presenting different patterns after the fabric is subjected to heat setting.
The weft yarns in the inner layer between two adjacent hems are floating yarns, wherein L is 4mm, L is 1mm, L is 7 mm, and L is 4 mm.
A method of manufacturing a fabric presenting different patterns at different viewing angles, comprising the steps of:
(1) designing two related patterns, as shown in a moon chart of FIG. 7 and a fault chart of FIG. 8, according to the installation of a jacquard loom, wherein the finished product density of the fabric is 108x27 pieces/cm and 108x81 pieces/cm in total, the width of a pattern is determined to be 130 cm, and the height of the pattern is determined to be 180 cm according to the requirement to obtain the pattern;
(2) determining the size of the pattern according to the apparent warp and weft density of a non-triangular area of the fabric, the total warp and weft density of 96x 27/cm, the total warp and weft density of 96x 81/cm and the size of a flower-back of 146.7x180 cm, filling the pattern with three-color strips, wherein the three-color strips consist of three-color strip units which are repeatedly arranged, the three-color strip units consist of two strips which are sequentially arranged, the width L left, L right and L are both 4mm, and a spacing strip which is 1mm is arranged between the L, the structure of the three-color strips is shown in figure 9, the gray and black are 4mmL left and L right strips, and the white is a spacing strip which is 1 mm;
the two related patterns are respectively adjusted to be 146.7 cm in height and width in equal proportion, black and white stripe areas are protected on a graph 9, the graph 7 is divided according to the stripe width of 4mm, then, each equal part is sequentially covered on a gray stripe with the width of 4mm on the graph 9 at intervals, then, gray and white stripes are protected, the graph 8 is divided according to the stripe width of 4mm, and then, each equal part is sequentially covered on a black stripe with the width of 4mm on the graph 9 at intervals, so that a complete fabric plan view is obtained, as shown in a graph 10;
(3) designing a fabric tissue, adopting a back lining for plain weaving, selecting a warp and weft yarn combination, wherein the warp and weft yarn materials except the inner weft yarn adopt polyester low stretch yarn, the inner weft yarn adopts shrink yarn, the warp arrangement adopts JAJB, the weft arrangement adopts a triple weft yarn structure, the specific setting is shown in Table 1, weaving is carried out by adopting a jacquard loom, and the design parameter setting of the weaving tissue is shown in figure 24;
table 1 example 1 weave design, warp and weft yarn combination and yarn layout
Yarn fineness and yarn ratio of fiber type yarns in category code color yarn form
Warp JA black network twisted yarn polyester 75D 50%
75D 50% of JB white network twisted yarn polyester
Weft WA black low-elasticity heavy net polyester 200D 33%
WB Red Low-elasticity yarn polyester 200D 33%
WC white shrink yarn polyester 90D 33%
(4) And (3) carrying out heat setting treatment on the fabric, wherein the setting temperature is 160 ℃, so that the fabric shrinks to form a triangular structure, as shown in fig. 4, the finished product shrinks to 130 cm from the 160 cm inner width on the machine after setting, the shrinkage rate reaches 18.75%, and the patterns presented by the fabric at different observation angles on the left side, the middle side and the right side are as shown in fig. 11, fig. 12 and fig. 13.
Example 2
A fabric presenting different patterns at different viewing angles and a manufacturing method thereof, the embodiment is different from the embodiment 1 in that two related patterns are designed to be different, as shown in figures 14 and 15. The fabric density was apparent 108x27 counts/cm, total 108x81 counts/cm, and the flower-back size (130x220 cm); the three-color strip unit consists of two strips which are sequentially arranged and have the width L of 5mm on the left and the right and a gap of 1.1mm between the widths L; and (3) respectively carrying out equal-width division on the two related patterns according to the width of 5mm, and covering the two related patterns on two strips with the width of 5mm at intervals to manufacture a fabric plane graph and a card. The final product fabric shows patterns at different observation angles on the left side, the middle and the right side as shown in fig. 16, fig. 17 and fig. 18.
Example 3
A fabric presenting different patterns at different viewing angles and a manufacturing method thereof, the present embodiment is different from embodiment 1 in that two related patterns are designed to be different, as shown in FIGS. 19 and 20. The fabric density is apparent 108x27 pieces/cm, total 108x81 pieces/cm, and the size of the flower-back is 130x110 cm, L is 4.2 mm, L is 0.8 mm. The final product fabric shows patterns at different observation angles on the left side, the middle and the right side as shown in fig. 21, fig. 22 and fig. 23.
The above embodiments are only some embodiments of the present invention, and should not be taken as limiting the scope of the present invention, and any modifications and variations based on the concept of the present invention are included in the scope of the present invention, and the specific scope of the present invention is defined by the following claims.