阅读说明：本技术 一种抗衰老组合物、精华液及其制备方法 (Anti-aging composition, essence and preparation method thereof ) 是由 殷传江 杜养标 于 2021-01-04 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明公开了一种抗衰老组合物,涉及化妆品技术领域。所述抗衰老组合物,包含以下重量份的组分：3-甘油抗坏血酸1-10份、椰油酰水解胶原钾1-10份、水解贝壳硬蛋白1-10份和维生素C1-10份。本发明提供的抗衰老组合物,无刺激性、保湿性好,可为肌肤直接补充胶原蛋白。此外,本发明还提供了包含所述抗衰老组合物的精华液,具有抑制弹性蛋白酶活性,提升皮肤活力和弹性,抑制角质化异常导致的角质层脱落不均,能够增加胶原蛋白密度,有效抑制和消除肌肤皱纹的效果。(The invention discloses an anti-aging composition, and relates to the technical field of cosmetics. The anti-aging composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 1-10 parts of 3-glycerol ascorbic acid, 1-10 parts of potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen, 1-10 parts of hydrolyzed conchiolin and 1-10 parts of vitamin C. The anti-aging composition provided by the invention has no irritation and good moisture retention, and can be used for directly supplementing collagen to skin. In addition, the invention also provides essence containing the anti-aging composition, and the essence has the effects of inhibiting the activity of elastase, improving the vitality and elasticity of skin, inhibiting uneven shedding of horny layer caused by abnormal keratinization, increasing the density of collagen and effectively inhibiting and eliminating skin wrinkles.)

1. The anti-aging composition is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by weight: 1-10 parts of 3-glycerol ascorbic acid, 1-10 parts of potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen, 1-10 parts of hydrolyzed conchiolin and 1-10 parts of vitamin C.

2. The anti-aging composition according to claim 1, comprising the following components in parts by weight: 5-10 parts of 3-glycerol ascorbic acid, 5-10 parts of potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen, 1-5 parts of hydrolyzed conchiolin and 1-5 parts of vitamin C.

3. The anti-aging composition according to claim 2, comprising the following components in parts by weight: 8 parts of 3-glycerol ascorbic acid, 6 parts of potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen, 2 parts of hydrolyzed conchiolin and 1 parts of vitamin C.

4. Use of the anti-aging composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 in cosmetics.

5. A cosmetic comprising the antiaging composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3.

6. The cosmetic is characterized by being essence, and the essence further comprises the following components in parts by weight: 1-10 parts of humectant, 0.1-0.5 part of thickener and 0.05-1 part of preservative.

7. The cosmetic according to claim 6, wherein at least one of the following (a) to (c):

(a) the humectant is at least one of sodium hyaluronate, glycerin, propylene glycol, 1, 3-butanediol, dipropylene glycol, allantoin, betaine, erythritol, sodium PCA, trehalose and saccharide isomer;

(b) the thickening agent is at least one of carbomer, cellulose, xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl acrylate/acryloyl dimethyl sodium taurate copolymer and acryloyl dimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer;

(c) the antiseptic is at least one of caprylyl hydroximic acid, sodium benzoate, parabens, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol and polyalcohol.

8. A method for preparing the cosmetic according to claim 6, comprising the steps of:

(1) adding humectant, antiseptic, thickener and water into water phase pot in sequence, stirring, heating to 80-85 deg.C, homogenizing for 3-5min, and dispersing to obtain mixture;

(2) and (2) stirring the mixture obtained in the step (1), cooling to 40-45 ℃, adding the anti-aging composition into a water phase pot, stirring for 5-10min, and uniformly dispersing to obtain the anti-aging essence.

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to an anti-aging composition, essence and a preparation method thereof.

Background

Aging of the skin is a natural process and also a result of the co-action of a number of factors. Among endogenous factors, genetic factors are the most critical cause for our skin aging, and natural aging caused by genes is difficult to avoid and reverse. Among the exogenous factors, ultraviolet rays can cause photoaging, damage cell DNA, reduce fibroblast activity, block collagen synthesis and degrade elastin, resulting in cell variation, aging and apoptosis. On the other hand, oxidative free radicals generated in the body attack cells of the body, destroy collagen, accumulate over time, and cause skin aging.

At present, the anti-aging skin care products on the market mainly solve the problem of skin aging from exogenous factors. The effective components in most of the anti-aging skin care products on the market are generally polyphenols, hyaluronic acid or polypeptides. The anti-aging effect is achieved mainly in the following aspects, firstly, the anti-aging agent has stronger oxidation resistance and can resist skin oxidative damage caused by ultraviolet rays; secondly, fine lines are reduced by slowly peeling off the stratum corneum of the skin; third, the products of polypeptides act as signal peptides to promote the production of collagen, elastin and fibronectin.

Firstly, if only one component with the wrinkle removing effect or only one component with the skin tightening effect is added, the anti-aging effect of the product is single, and the comprehensive anti-aging effect is difficult to realize; secondly, some anti-aging raw materials have good anti-aging effect, but have large irritation to skin, and cannot be used for a long time. Third, there are few raw materials available on the market that can be directly supplemented with collagen, because collagen molecules are generally large and are difficult to be absorbed by the skin.

Disclosure of Invention

Based on the situation, the invention aims to overcome the defects of the prior art and provide the anti-aging composition which has no irritation and good moisture retention and can directly supplement collagen for skin.

In order to achieve the purpose, the technical scheme adopted by the invention is as follows: an anti-aging composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 1-10 parts of 3-glycerol ascorbic acid, 1-10 parts of potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen, 1-10 parts of hydrolyzed conchiolin and 1-10 parts of vitamin C.

The invention provides an anti-aging composition with multiple components, the coconut acyl hydrolyzed collagen potassium has stronger epidermal permeability than common collagen, can directly supplement collagen for skin, and can have better synergistic effect with anti-aging ascorbic acid derivatives; in addition, hydrolyzed conchiolin rich in various amino acids is added into the composition, so that the composition has excellent moisture retention and can promote the production of skin elastin. The components have synergistic interaction, and the effect is better than that of single or double use.

Preferably, the anti-aging composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 5-10 parts of 3-glycerol ascorbic acid, 5-10 parts of potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen, 1-5 parts of hydrolyzed conchiolin and 1-5 parts of vitamin C.

Collagen plays a very important role in the anti-aging process. However, collagen with a higher molecular weight has poor permeability to the skin. Research shows that the collagen polypeptide derivative can obviously improve the permeability of the skin, and the principle is that the skin permeation effect is improved by increasing the hydrophobicity of molecules. Potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen is a reaction product of cocoyl chloride and collagen polypeptide (derived from fish scales) and is more permeable than collagen polypeptide. . The potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen is collagen derived from fish scales, and is connected with a fatty acid to generate a collagen derivative, so that the permeability of the original collagen is improved. Fibroblasts are the initiation of collagen synthesis and have a great effect on maintaining healthy skin.

Experimental data show that potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen can remarkably prevent active oxygen from damaging fibroblasts, and can proliferate the fibroblasts, and collagen is synthesized by the fibroblasts. Vitamin C is an essential component of collagen polymerization during synthesis. In the process of combining with vitamin C, the additive effect can be produced, and the generation of collagen is further promoted. In addition, the experimental data also show that the potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen can obviously increase the content of collagen in the dermis. The collagen density is increased, the skin wrinkles are effectively inhibited and eliminated by increasing the collagen density, the collagen manufacturing capacity can be effectively improved by improving the skin elasticity, and the elastic and full health state of the skin is recovered. The results of experimental data show that potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen can increase the content of type I collagen by about 6 times and the content of type III collagen by about 1.7 times.

The relevant experimental data show that the 3-glycerol ascorbic acid can effectively inhibit the generation of active oxygen by permeating epidermis. The 3-glycerol ascorbic acid has strong antioxidation, and can effectively inhibit the reduction of collagen caused by active oxygen. The 3-glycerol ascorbic acid can effectively inhibit the potential inflammation of the skin and improve the red and swollen skin. Due to the oxidation of protein derivatives by active oxygen, the protein is dark yellow after denaturation and inactivation, which leads to dark skin and reduced lightness. The 3-glycerol ascorbic acid can effectively inhibit the oxidation of protein and prevent skin from being dull. The abnormal renewal cycle of the skin causes uneven exfoliation of the stratum corneum, and lowers the texture of the skin. This is a characteristic feature of rough skin. The 3-glycerol ascorbic acid can inhibit cuticle shedding unevenness caused by abnormal keratinization, and can restore skin cycle to normal.

Hydrolyzed conchiolin is composed of about 18 kinds of amino acids, wherein glycine and alanine account for about half of the total amino acids, serine and threonine, and the two kinds of amino acids containing hydroxyl group are relatively rich, and can be used as NMF (natural moisturizing factor) to exert excellent moisturizing effect. Elastin, an important structural protein in skin composition, is degraded during skin aging due to the increase in the content of matrix metalloproteinases such as elastase, resulting in loss of skin elasticity. Relevant experimental data show that the hydrolyzed conchiolin can inhibit the activity of elastase and improve the vitality and elasticity of skin. In addition, the hydrolyzed conchiolin can well remove free radical oxygen generated by the exposure of skin to ultraviolet rays, and prevent the damage of the free radical oxygen to fiber cells.

Further preferably, the anti-aging composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 8 parts of 3-glycerol ascorbic acid, 6 parts of potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen, 2 parts of hydrolyzed conchiolin and 1 parts of vitamin C.

Through a large number of creative experimental researches, the inventor provides the optimal matching of the anti-aging composition, and the obtained anti-aging composition has the best effect.

In addition, the invention provides the application of the anti-aging composition in cosmetics.

Further, the present invention also provides a cosmetic comprising the above anti-aging composition.

Preferably, the cosmetic is essence, and further comprises the following components in parts by weight: the essence also comprises the following components in parts by weight: 1-10 parts of humectant, 0.1-0.5 part of thickener and 0.05-1 part of preservative.

Preferably, the cosmetic is at least one of the following (a) to (c):

(a) the humectant is at least one of sodium hyaluronate, glycerin, propylene glycol, 1, 3-butanediol, dipropylene glycol, allantoin, betaine, erythritol, sodium PCA, trehalose and saccharide isomer;

(b) the thickening agent is at least one of carbomer, cellulose, xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl acrylate/acryloyl dimethyl sodium taurate copolymer and acryloyl dimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer;

(c) the antiseptic is at least one of caprylyl hydroximic acid, sodium benzoate, parabens, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol and polyalcohol.

In addition, the invention also provides a preparation method of the cosmetic, which comprises the following steps:

(1) adding humectant, antiseptic, thickener and water into water phase pot in sequence, stirring, heating to 80-85 deg.C, homogenizing for 3-5min, and dispersing to obtain mixture;

(2) and (2) stirring the mixture obtained in the step (1), cooling to 40-45 ℃, adding the anti-aging composition into a water phase pot, stirring for 5-10min, and uniformly dispersing to obtain the anti-aging essence.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that: the anti-aging composition provided by the invention has no irritation and good moisture retention, and can directly supplement collagen for skin; the essence containing the anti-aging composition can inhibit the activity of elastase and improve the vitality and elasticity of skin. In addition, the hydrolyzed conchiolin can well remove free radical oxygen generated by the exposure of skin to ultraviolet rays, so as to prevent the damage of the free radical oxygen to fiber cells; can inhibit stratum corneum desquamation unevenness caused by keratinization abnormality, and make skin cycle return to normal; can increase collagen density, and effectively inhibit and eliminate skin wrinkles.

Detailed Description

To better illustrate the objects, aspects and advantages of the present invention, the present invention will be further described with reference to specific examples.

Examples 1-5 are provided herein, with specific examples 1-5 having components and parts by weight selected as shown in tables 1 and 2:

TABLE 1 selection of parts by weight of specific examples 1-5

TABLE 2 selection of Components for specific examples 1-5

	Example 1	Example 2	Example 3	Example 4	Example 5
						Moisture-retaining agent	Hyaluronic acid sodium salt	Glycerol	Propylene glycol	Trehalose	Betaine
Thickening agent	Carbomer	Cellulose, process for producing the same, and process for producing the same	Xanthan gum	Cellulose, process for producing the same, and process for producing the same	Xanthan gum
						Preservative	Octanoyl hydroximic acid	Hydroxy benzyl ester	Phenoxyethanol	Ethyl hexyl glycerol	Sodium benzoate

The preparation method of the essence described in the example comprises the following steps after the components are weighed according to the following table 1 and table 2:

(1) adding humectant, antiseptic, thickener and water into water phase pot in sequence, stirring, heating to 80-85 deg.C, homogenizing for 3-5min, and dispersing to obtain mixture;

(2) and (2) stirring the mixture obtained in the step (1), cooling to 40-45 ℃, adding the anti-aging composition into a water phase pot, stirring for 5-10min, and uniformly dispersing to obtain the anti-aging essence.

Meanwhile, the application sets comparative examples, the weight parts of the anti-aging composition in the specific comparative examples are selected as shown in table 3, and the rest components, the weight parts and the preparation method are completely the same as those in example 5:

table 3 selection of parts by weight of anti-aging composition in comparative example

Test examples

In order to verify the efficacy of the anti-aging compositions disclosed in the present invention, the anti-aging effects of the anti-aging compositions of examples 1 to 5 and comparative examples 1 to 8 were prepared as described above, and anti-aging essences including the anti-aging compositions of examples 1 to 5, and anti-aging essences including the compositions of comparative examples 1 to 8 were prepared.

Test example 1 skin elasticity test

The test process comprises the following steps: 65 female volunteers and 65 male volunteers with wrinkles and healthy and undamaged skin are selected, wherein the average age is 40-45 years old. The anti-aging essences of examples 1 to 5 and comparative examples 1 to 8 were used, respectively, by randomly dividing into 13 groups of 10. After the test subject cleans the face, the test subject applies the essence twice a day, the skin elasticity index R2 (the ratio of the rebound quantity Ua of the skin without negative pressure to the maximum stretching quantity Uf with negative pressure) of the left cheekbone part is tested by a skin elasticity tester at 0 week and 4 weeks respectively, and the average value of the test results of the user is taken. The value of the skin elasticity index 30min after cleaning of the test area was taken as the initial value.

Specification of indexes: the closer the skin elasticity index R2 is to 1, the better the elasticity of the skin. The average change value of R2 is R2 at 4 th week to R2 at 0 th week, and the average change rate of R2 is R2 average change value/R2 at 0 th week. During the experiment, the subject was not able to apply any other cosmetic product at the experimental site. The results of the specific skin elasticity tests are shown in table 4.

TABLE 4 variation of skin elasticity R2 for different periods (w)

As shown in table 4, after the anti-aging essence prepared in the example is tested by a user, the skin elasticity index R2 is obviously improved, the average change rate is about 40% or more, and after the anti-aging essence prepared in the example 5 is used for 4 weeks, the skin elasticity index R2 reaches 0.789, and the average change rate reaches 48.03%. Comparative examples 1 to 4, each lacking one of the components of the antiaging composition of the invention, exhibited a significant decrease in the average rate of change in skin elasticity of 25 to 35% as compared with the examples, indicating that the antiaging compositions of the invention have synergistic effects with each other. Comparative examples 5 to 7, which lack each of the two components of the antiaging composition provided by the invention, exhibited average change rates of skin elasticity of 19 to 23%, comparative example 8, which did not contain the antiaging composition provided by the invention, exhibited almost no change in skin elasticity index R2.

2. Skin texture test

70 female volunteers and 70 male volunteers with wrinkles and healthy and undamaged skin are selected, wherein the average age of the female volunteers is 40-45 years old. The anti-aging essences of examples 1 to 5 and comparative examples 1 to 9 were used, respectively, by randomly dividing into 14 groups of 10. The examinee applies the anti-aging essence twice a day in the morning and at the evening at a position 10 cm away from the palm base on the inner side of the arm, after 0 week and 4 week using the anti-aging essence, the examinee cleans the applied part at the same time every week, and the average skin roughness of the applied area is measured using a multifunctional skin mirror image analysis system.

Average change ratio (%) - (0 th week skin average roughness-4 th week average roughness)/0 th week skin average roughness. During the experiment, the subject was not able to apply any other cosmetic product at the experimental site. The results are shown in Table 5.

TABLE 5 average roughness of skin for different periods (w)

Sample (I)	Week 0	Week 4	Average rate of change (%)
				Example 1	24.53	17.38	29.15
Example 2	24.43	16.96	30.58
				Example 3	24.38	16.56	32.08
Example 4	24.32	16.16	33.55
				Example 5	24.31	15.67	35.54
Comparative example 1	24.36	18.94	22.25
				Comparative example 2	24.33	18.69	23.18
Comparative example 3	24.31	18.37	24.43
				Comparative example 4	24.29	17.98	25.98
Comparative example 5	24.32	19.39	20.27
				Comparative example 6	24.34	19.64	19.31
Comparative example 7	24.51	19.41	20.81
				Comparative example 8	24.3	24.3	0.00

As can be seen from table 5, after the anti-aging essence prepared in the examples is tested by a user, the average roughness of the skin is obviously improved, and by comparing with the anti-aging essence of the comparative example, it is found that the improvement effect on the skin roughness is obviously reduced in the absence of one or two components of the anti-aging essence, and the anti-aging compositions provided by the invention have a synergistic effect.

Finally, it should be noted that the above embodiments are only used for illustrating the technical solutions of the present invention and not for limiting the protection scope of the present invention, and although the present invention is described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, it should be understood by those skilled in the art that modifications or equivalent substitutions can be made on the technical solutions of the present invention without departing from the spirit and scope of the technical solutions of the present invention.