Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a merocyanine and an oily phase comprising at least one alkyl or alkylene carbonate
阅读说明：本技术 包含部花青和包含至少一种碳酸烷基或亚烷基酯的油相的化妆品或皮肤病学组合物 (Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a merocyanine and an oily phase comprising at least one alkyl or alkylene carbonate ) 是由 M·萨夫安 A·巴伦 J·格鲁梅拉德 于 2019-06-27 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明涉及一种值得注意地化妆品或皮肤病学组合物,所述组合物包含：a)至少一种式(1)或(2)的部花青,和(2)b)至少一个包含至少一种碳酸烷基或亚烷基酯的油相。本发明还涉及一种用于对角蛋白材料进行护理和/或化妆的非治疗性美容方法,所述方法包括向所述角蛋白材料的表面施用至少一种如上文所定义的组合物。本发明还涉及一种用于限制皮肤变黑和/或改善肤色的颜色和/或均匀性的非治疗性美容方法,所述方法包括向所述角蛋白材料的表面施用至少一种如先前所定义的组合物。本发明还涉及一种用于预防和/或处理角蛋白材料老化迹象的非治疗性美容方法,所述方法包括向所述角蛋白材料的表面施用至少一种如先前所定义的组合物。(The present invention relates to a noteworthy cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising: a) at least one merocyanine of formula (1) or (2), and (2) b) at least one oily phase comprising at least one alkyl or alkylene carbonate. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising the application to the surface of the keratin materials of at least one composition as defined above. The invention also relates to a method for limiting the darkening and/or darkening of the skinA non-therapeutic cosmetic method of improving the colour and/or uniformity of skin tone, said method comprising the application to the surface of the keratin materials of at least one composition as defined previously. The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and/or treating the signs of ageing of a keratin material, comprising the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one composition as defined previously.)
1. A cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising:
a) at least one merocyanine corresponding to any one of formulae (1) and (2) below, or an E/E-or E/Z-geometric isomeric form thereof:
wherein:
R1and R2Independently of one another, hydrogen; c1-C22Alkyl radical, C2-C22Alkenyl or C2-C22Alkynyl, said group possibly being substituted by at least one hydroxyl or interrupted by at least one-O-; or R1And R2Together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached form- (CH) s which may optionally be interrupted by-O-or-NH-2)n-a ring;
R3is- (C ═ O) OR6A group; or- (CO) NHR6A group;
R6is C1-C22Alkyl radical, C2-C22Alkenyl radical, C2-C22Alkynyl, C3-C22Cycloalkyl or C3-C22Cycloalkenyl, said groups possibly being substituted by one or more OH;
R4and R5Is hydrogen; or R4And R5Can be formed by C1-C4Alkyl substituted and/or interrupted by one or more-O-or-NH- (CH)2)n-a ring;
R7and R8Independently of one another, hydrogen; c1-C22Alkyl radical, C2-C22Alkenyl radical, C2-C22Alkynyl, said groups possibly being interrupted by one or more O and/or substituted by one or more OH; c3-C22Cycloalkyl or C3-C22Cycloalkenyl, said groups possibly being interrupted by one or more-O-;
or R7And R8Together with the nitrogen linking them to form- (CH) s which may be interrupted by one or more-O-2)n-a ring;
R9and R10Is hydrogen; or R9And R10Form may be C1-C4Alkyl substituted and/or interrupted by-O-or-NH- (CH)2)n-a ring;
a is-O-; or-NH;
R11is C1-C22An alkyl group; c2-C22Alkenyl radical；C2-C22An alkynyl group; c3-C22Cycloalkyl or C3-C22Cycloalkenyl, said groups possibly being interrupted by one or more O; or by C3-C22Cycloalkyl or C3-C22Cycloalkenyl substituted C1-C22Alkyl or C2-C22Alkenyl radical, said C3-C22Cycloalkyl or C3-C22Cycloalkenyl may be interrupted by one or more-O-;
n is a number between 2 and 7; and
b) at least one oily phase comprising at least one alkyl or alkylene carbonate.
2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the compound of formula (1) is selected from those wherein:
R6is C which may be substituted by one or more hydroxy groups1-C12An alkyl group.
3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the compound of formula (1) is selected from those wherein:
R6is C which may be substituted by one or more hydroxy groups1-C12An alkyl group;
R1or R2One of the radicals being C4-C22An alkyl group; or R1And R2Together with the nitrogen linking them to form- (CH) s which may be interrupted by-O-and/or-NH-2)n-a ring; and is
R4And R5And n has the same meaning as indicated in claim 1.
4. The composition of claim 1, wherein the compound of formula (2) is selected from those wherein:
R11is- (CH)2)m-O-R12Group (a) in which
R12Is C1-C12An alkyl group; or C1-C6alkoxy-C1-C6An alkyl group;
m is a number from 1 to 5; and is
R7、R8、R9、R10And a has the same meaning as indicated in claim 1.
5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the compound of formula (1) or (2) is selected from those wherein:
in one aspect R1And R2And on the other hand R7And R8Together with the nitrogen atom to which they are respectively bound, form a piperidinyl group or morpholinyl group, respectively.
6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the compound of formula (1) or (2) is selected from those wherein:
R4and R5And R9And R10Each forming a carbon-based ring containing 6 carbon atoms.
7. The composition of claim 1, wherein the compound of formula (1) is selected from those wherein:
R1and R2Independently of one another, hydrogen; or C1-C22An alkyl group; or C1-C22A hydroxyalkyl group; or R1And R2Together with the nitrogen atom to which they are bound form a piperidinyl or morpholinyl group;
R3is- (C ═ O) OR6A group; or- (CO) NHR6A group;
R6is C which may be substituted by one or more-OH groups1-C22An alkyl group;
R4and R5Is hydrogen; or R4And R5Joined together to form a carbon-based ring containing 6 carbon atoms.
8. The composition of claim 1, wherein the compound of formula (1) is selected from those wherein:
R1and R2Independently of one another, hydrogen; or C1-C22A hydroxyalkyl group; wherein said R1And R2At least one of the radicals being C1-C22A hydroxyalkyl group;
R3is- (C ═ O) OR6A group; or- (C ═ O) NHR6A group;
R6is C1-C12An alkyl group;
R4and R5Is hydrogen; or R4And R5Taken together to form a carbon-based ring containing 6 carbon atoms.
9. The composition of claim 1, wherein the compound of formula (2) is selected from those wherein:
R7and R8Independently of one another, hydrogen or C which may be interrupted by one or more-O-1-C8An alkyl group;
a is-O-or-NH;
R11is C1-C22An alkyl group; and is
R9And R10Is hydrogen; or R9And R10Taken together to form a carbon-based ring containing 6 carbon atoms.
10. The composition of claim 1, wherein the compound of formula (2) is selected from those wherein:
R7and R8Together with the nitrogen atom to which they are bound form morpholinyl or piperidinyl;
a is-O-; or-NH;
R11is C which may be interrupted by one or more-O-s1-C22An alkyl group; and is
R9And R10Is hydrogen; or R9And R10Taken together to form a carbon-based ring containing 6 carbon atoms.
11. The composition of claim 1, wherein the compound of formula (2) is selected from those wherein:
R11is- (CH)2)m-O-R12Group (a) in which
R12Is C1-C4An alkyl group; or C1-C4alkoxy-C1-C4An alkyl group;
m is a number from 1 to 3; and is
R7And R8Independently of one another, hydrogen; or C which may be interrupted by one or more O1-C12An alkyl group; or R7And R8Together with the nitrogen atom to which they are bound form morpholinyl or piperidinyl;
R9and R10Are hydrogen or together form a carbon-based ring containing 6 carbon atoms; and is
A is-O-or-NH.
12. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the compound of formula (1) or (2) is chosen from the following compounds and also the E/E-or E/Z-geometric isomeric forms thereof:
13. composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the compound of formula (1) or (2) is chosen from those corresponding to formula (3) below and also its E/E-or E/Z-geometric isomer forms:
(3)
wherein
A is-O-or-NH;
r is C1-C22Alkyl radical, C2-C22Alkenyl radical, C2-C22Alkynyl, C3-C22Cycloalkyl or C3-C22Cycloalkenyl, said groups possibly being interrupted by one or more O.
14. Composition according to claim 14, in which the merocyanine of formula (3) is selected from the following compounds and also from the E/E-or E/Z-geometric isomer forms thereof:
15. the composition according to claim 14, wherein the merocyanine of formula (3) is selected from the compound (2Z) -cyano {3- [ (3-methoxypropyl) amino ] cyclohex-2-en-1-ylidene } acetic acid 2-ethoxyethyl ester (25) and/or the compound (2Z) -cyano [3- [ (3-methoxypropyl) amino ] cyclohex-2-en-1-ylidene ] acetic acid ethyl ester (14) and mixtures thereof, and preferably the compound (25).
16. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, in which the merocyanine(s) are present in a concentration ranging from 0.1% to 25% by weight, and preferably from 0.2% to 20% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
17. The cosmetic or dermatological composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, comprising:
a) at least a merocyanine corresponding to formula (3) and also in the form of E/E-or E/Z-geometric isomers:
(3)
wherein:
a is-O-or-NH;
r is C1-C22 alkyl, C2-C22 alkenyl, C2-C22 alkynyl, C3-C22 cycloalkyl or C3-C22 cycloalkenyl, said groups possibly being interrupted by one or more O;
b) at least one oily phase comprising at least one alkyl or alkylene carbonate, present in a concentration preferably ranging from 0.1% to 98% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 50% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the alkylene chain(s) of the alkylene carbonate(s) is/are a C2-C6 alkyl, preferably C2-C4 alkyl, eventually substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups;
and/or wherein the one or more alkyl groups of the one or more alkyl carbonates are C1-C6 alkyl, preferably C2-C6 alkyl, and more preferably C2-C4 alkyl, eventually substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups.
19. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the sum of the carbons of the one or more alkylene chains of the one or more alkylene carbonates and/or the sum of the carbons of the one or more alkyl groups of the one or more alkyl carbonates is in the range of from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.
20. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the one or more alkylene carbonate(s) is/are selected from alkylene carbonates of formula (4) below:
in the formula (4)
R' represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C6Alkyl, straight or branched C1-C4A hydroxyalkyl group;
r' represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C6Alkyl, straight or branched C1-C4A hydroxyalkyl group;
m is 1, 2 or 3.
21. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the one or more alkylene carbonate(s) is/are selected from alkylene carbonates of formula (4) below:
in the formula (4)
The radical R' represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C4Alkyl, straight chain C1-C2A hydroxyalkyl group;
r' represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C2Alkyl, straight chain C1-C2A hydroxyalkyl group,
and m is 1.
22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the alkylene carbonate(s) are chosen from ethylene carbonate, propylene carbonate, 1, 2-butylene carbonate and glycerol carbonate, and more particularly propylene carbonate.
23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the alkyl carbonate(s) are chosen from those of formula (5) below:
R’-O-CO-O-R”
in said formula (5)
R' denotes straight-chain or branched C1-C5Alkyl, straight or branched C1-C4A hydroxyalkyl group;
r' represents a linear or branched C1-C5Alkyl, straight or branched C1-C4A hydroxyalkyl group;
the sum of the carbons of R' and R "ranges from 2 to 6.
24. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the one or more alkyl carbonates are selected from diethyl carbonate and dipropyl carbonate.
25. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the alkyl or alkylene carbonate(s) are present in a concentration preferably ranging from 0.1% to 98% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 50% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
26. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises an additional UV screening agent.
27. A non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising the application, to the surface of the keratin materials, of at least one composition as defined according to any one of the preceding claims.
28. A non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting the darkening of the skin and/or improving the colour and/or uniformity of the complexion, which comprises applying to the surface of the keratin materials at least one composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 26.
29. A non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and/or treating the signs of ageing of a keratin material, comprising the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one composition as defined in claims 1 to 26.
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