阅读说明：本技术 一种天丝羊毛混纺面料的染整工艺 (Dyeing and finishing process of tencel and wool blended fabric ) 是由 吴栋标 于 2020-05-27 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明公开了一种羊毛天丝混纺面料的染整工艺,包括依次进行的坯布检验→翻缝→烧毛→退浆煮练→漂白→烘干→上卷→喷淋、收卷染色→松式烘干→柔软整理→空气洗→拉幅→预缩→缩绒→起毛→剪毛→罐蒸→验整→成品。本发明的天丝与羊毛混纺面料在染色过程中采用喷淋含有匀染剂和缓染剂的助剂混合溶液,将助剂先与坯布接触,然后再使染料与坯布接触染色,助剂与染料分开,使天丝纤维与羊毛纤维之间的染色速率接近,提高面料的匀染性；采用染料浸润收卷染色和收卷固色的方法,不需要将坯布完全浸泡在染缸内,降低染色和固色的浴比,减少天丝的吸液量和吸液时间,进一步使天丝纤维与羊毛纤维的染色速率趋同,进一步提高面料的匀染性。(The invention discloses a dyeing and finishing process of a wool and tencel blended fabric, which comprises the steps of gray fabric inspection → seam flanging → singeing → desizing and boiling-off → bleaching → drying → rolling → spraying, rolling and dyeing → loose drying → soft finishing → air washing → tentering → preshrinking → fulling → fuzzing → shearing → can steaming → checking and finishing → finished products which are sequentially carried out. According to the tencel and wool blended fabric, in the dyeing process, an auxiliary agent mixed solution containing a leveling agent and a retarding agent is sprayed, the auxiliary agent is firstly contacted with the grey cloth, then the dye is contacted with the grey cloth for dyeing, the auxiliary agent is separated from the dye, the dyeing rate between the tencel fiber and the wool fiber is close, and the leveling property of the fabric is improved; by adopting the method of dye infiltration rolling dyeing and rolling fixation, the gray fabric does not need to be completely soaked in a dye vat, the bath ratio of dyeing and fixation is reduced, the liquid absorption amount and the liquid absorption time of tencel are reduced, the dyeing rates of the tencel fiber and the wool fiber are further converged, and the level-dyeing property of the fabric is further improved.)

1. A dyeing and finishing process of wool and tencel blended fabric is characterized by comprising the steps of gray fabric inspection → seam flanging → singeing → desizing and boiling-off → bleaching → drying → rolling → dyeing → pine type drying → soft finishing → air washing → tentering → preshrinking → fulling → fuzzing → shearing → can steaming → finishing → finished product; the dyeing process specifically comprises the steps that the gray fabric advances at a constant speed through a traction roller, a spraying pipe sprays an auxiliary agent mixed solution comprising a leveling agent and a retarding agent from the upper and/or lower direction of the gray fabric, the sprayed gray fabric horizontally enters a dye vat at a constant speed for infiltration, a gray fabric winding roller infiltrated by dye liquor performs winding dyeing, the traction roller pulls the gray fabric to advance after the winding dyeing is completed, the dye fixing agent is sprayed towards the gray fabric, the winding and the color fixing are performed again, and soaping is performed after the color fixing is completed; wherein the concentration of the assistant mixed solution is 20-40g/L, and the spraying amount is 50-100 ml/m.

2. The dyeing and finishing process for the wool and tencel blended fabric according to claim 1, wherein the spraying of the auxiliary mixed solution is performed from above the grey fabric and from below the grey fabric, respectively, in the vertically opposite directions, when the auxiliary mixed solution is sprayed to the grey fabric.

3. A dyeing and finishing process for wool Tian Si blended fabric according to claim 2, characterized in that in the dye vat infiltration process, the dye vat is divided into a plurality of dye vats with gradient rising temperature, the temperature gradient of the dye liquor in the adjacent dye vats is 10-20 ℃, the temperature of the dye liquor in the initial dye vat is 40 ℃, and the temperature of the dye liquor in the last dye vat is 110 ℃; the grey cloth also has an air exposure cooling process before entering the adjacent dye vat, and the air cooling exposure time is 10-20 s.

4. A dyeing and finishing process for a wool and tencel blended fabric as claimed in claim 3, wherein the cloth feeding speed of the grey cloth is 5-10m/min, and the retention time of the grey cloth in each dye vat is 5-10 s; in the processes of rolling dyeing and rolling fixation, a rolling roller rotates at a constant speed, the rotation speed is 5-10rpm, and rolling dyeing and rolling fixation are carried out at the temperature of 60-80 ℃, wherein the rolling dyeing time is 20-30min, and the rolling fixation time is 10-20 min.

5. The dyeing and finishing process for wool and tencel blended fabric as claimed in claim 4, wherein the fixing agent is ammonia gas.

6. A dyeing and finishing process for wool and tencel blended fabric as claimed in claim 5, wherein the dye liquor comprises 1.5-2g/L of reactive dye and 30-40g/L of anhydrous sodium sulphate.

7. The dyeing and finishing process of the wool and tencel blended fabric, according to claim 6, is characterized in that the bath ratio of soaping is 1:6, specifically, the color-fixed gray fabric is soaked in hot water at 60 ℃ for 10-15min, soaping agent is added, the temperature is raised to 90 ℃, the temperature is kept for 15-20min, the temperature is lowered to 60 ℃, air flow is rotated and washed for 5-10min, and liquid is discharged, wherein the temperature raising and lowering speed is 2.5 ℃/min.

8. The dyeing and finishing process of the wool and tencel blended fabric as claimed in claim 7, wherein the soft finishing is specifically a two-dipping and two-rolling process of the grey fabric by using a soft treatment liquid, and the soft treatment liquid comprises, by weight, 10-13 parts of castor oil, 15-20 parts of fatty alcohol phosphate, 8-10 parts of polyether, 10-12 parts of pentaerythritol fatty acid ester, 1-2.5 parts of fatty alcohol ethanolamide, 1-3 parts of hydroxyethyl fatty amide, 8-10 parts of fatty alcohol polyethylene glycol, 35-40 parts of propylene glycol, and 350 parts of water 300-.

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of fabric dyeing and finishing, in particular to a dyeing and finishing process of a tencel and wool blended fabric.

Background

The tencel, the cotton, the wool and the hemp can respectively form blended fabrics of tencel/cotton, tencel/wool, tencel/hemp and the like, and because the tencel has high swelling property and high adsorption speed, the tencel blended fabrics mostly adopt a plurality of dyes, and various blended fibers are respectively dyed by a multi-bath method. However, a plurality of dyes are adopted for dyeing respectively, and cannot be used for dyeing simultaneously, and due to the fact that the absorbed colors of different fibers are different, the dyeing has color difference, and color shift and color difference are caused; the multi-bath method is adopted for dyeing, the process flow is longer, the bath ratio is large, the environmental protection problem is prominent, and the cost is higher; meanwhile, the tencel fiber expands greatly after meeting water, and dyes and auxiliaries easily enter the fiber, so that the initial dyeing rate is quite high, and the self front-back and left-right color difference of the tencel fiber is easily caused.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to overcome the defects in the prior art and provide the dyeing and finishing process of the wool and tencel blended fabric, which has the advantages of low initial dyeing rate, uniform dyeing and continuous dyeing.

In order to achieve the purpose, the technical scheme of the invention is to design a dyeing and finishing process of wool and tencel blended fabric, which comprises the steps of gray fabric inspection → seam flanging → singeing → desizing and boiling-off → bleaching → drying → rolling → dyeing → pine type drying → soft finishing → air washing → tentering → preshrinking → felting → fuzzing → shearing → can steaming → checking and finishing → finished products which are sequentially carried out; the dyeing process specifically comprises the steps that the gray fabric advances at a constant speed through a traction roller, a spraying pipe sprays an auxiliary agent mixed solution comprising a leveling agent and a retarding agent from the upper and/or lower direction of the gray fabric, the sprayed gray fabric horizontally enters a dye vat at a constant speed for infiltration, a gray fabric winding roller infiltrated by dye liquor performs winding dyeing, the traction roller pulls the gray fabric to advance after the winding dyeing is completed, the dye fixing agent is sprayed towards the gray fabric, the winding and the color fixing are performed again, and soaping is performed after the color fixing is completed; wherein the concentration of the assistant mixed solution is 20-40g/L, and the spraying amount is 50-100 ml/m.

According to the A100 type tencel and wool blended fabric, in the dyeing process, an auxiliary agent mixed solution containing a leveling agent and a retarding agent is sprayed, the auxiliary agent is firstly contacted with the grey cloth, then the dye is contacted with the grey cloth for dyeing, the auxiliary agent is separated from the dye, the dyeing rate between the tencel fiber and the wool fiber is close, and the leveling property of the fabric is improved; by adopting the method of dye infiltration rolling dyeing and rolling fixation, the gray fabric does not need to be completely soaked in a dye vat, the bath ratio of dyeing and fixation is reduced, the liquid absorption amount and the liquid absorption time of tencel are reduced, the dyeing rates of the tencel fiber and the wool fiber are further converged, and the level-dyeing property of the fabric is further improved.

According to the preferable technical scheme, the auxiliary agent mixed solution is sprayed from the upper part of the grey cloth and the lower part of the grey cloth respectively when the auxiliary agent mixed solution is sprayed to the grey cloth, and the spraying directions are vertically opposite. The gray fabric is sprayed by adopting a vertical relative spraying method, the liquid sprayed from the top to the bottom forms interweaving on the surface and inside of the gray fabric, the interweaving has mutually-conflicting acting forces and gradually-disappearing acting forces, and the mechanical acting force is gentle on the gray fabric, so that the tencel is uniformly fibrillated, local fibrillation is avoided, the level-dyeing property between the tencel fibers is further improved, and the color difference between the tencel fibers of the fabric in the front-back or left-right direction is reduced; meanwhile, if the fabric is in a short-hair style, the tencel fibers need to be fibrillated, and the tencel fibers are fibrillated in a spraying mode, so that the subsequent fibrillation procedures can be reduced, and the flow can be shortened.

The further preferred technical scheme is that in the dye vat infiltration process, the dye vat is divided into a plurality of dye vats with gradient rising temperature, the temperature gradient of dye liquor in adjacent dye vats is 10-20 ℃, the temperature of the dye liquor in the initial dye vat is 40 ℃, and the temperature of the dye liquor in the last dye vat is 110 ℃; the grey cloth also has an air exposure cooling process before entering the adjacent dye vat, and the air cooling exposure time is 10-20 s. The tencel fiber expands greatly after meeting water, and dyes and auxiliaries easily enter the fiber, so the initial dyeing rate is quite high; dye is soaked in the dye vats with gradient temperature, and air cooling intervals are arranged among the gradient dye vats, so that the initial dyeing rate can be effectively reduced, and the dye uptake rate of the dye is delayed; the method has the advantages of inhibiting the initial dyeing rate, avoiding the dyeing of a large amount of dye on the tencel during the initial dyeing, simultaneously dyeing the tencel fiber and the wool fiber during the winding dyeing, and further improving the dyeing uniformity of the tencel fiber and the wool fiber.

The further preferable technical proposal is that the cloth feeding speed of the grey cloth is 5-10m/min, and the retention time of the grey cloth in each dye vat is 5-10 s; in the processes of rolling dyeing and rolling fixation, a rolling roller rotates at a constant speed, the rotation speed is 5-10rpm, and rolling dyeing and rolling fixation are carried out at the temperature of 60-80 ℃, wherein the rolling dyeing time is 20-30min, and the rolling fixation time is 10-20 min.

The further preferable technical scheme is that the color fixing agent is ammonia gas. The ammonia gas is used as a color fixing agent to fumigate the grey cloth, the ammonia gas is combined with water in the grey cloth to form weakly alkaline ammonia water, the color fixing reaction process of the weakly alkaline ammonia water on the grey cloth is mild and slow, the color fixing time is long, and the dye is combined with the grey cloth more firmly.

The further preferable technical proposal is that the dye solution comprises 1.5-2g/L of reactive dye and 30-40g/L of anhydrous sodium sulphate.

The further preferable technical scheme is that the soaping bath ratio is 1:6, and specifically comprises the steps of soaking the color-fixed gray fabric in hot water at 60 ℃ for 10-15min, adding a soaping agent, heating to 90 ℃, keeping the temperature for 15-20min, cooling to 60 ℃, carrying out air flow rotation washing for 5-10min, discharging liquid, wherein the heating temperature and the cooling rate are 2.5 ℃/min.

The further preferable technical scheme is that the softening finishing is to perform two-dipping and two-rolling treatment on the grey cloth by using a softening treatment liquid, wherein the softening treatment liquid comprises, by weight, 10-13 parts of castor oil, 15-20 parts of fatty alcohol phosphate, 8-10 parts of polyether, 10-12 parts of pentaerythritol fatty acid ester, 1-2.5 parts of fatty alcohol ethanolamide, 1-3 parts of hydroxyethyl fatty amide, 8-10 parts of fatty alcohol polyethylene glycol, 35-40 parts of propylene glycol and 350 parts of water 300-. The fabric has more excellent washing resistance and lasting softening effect through soft finishing.

The invention has the advantages and beneficial effects that: according to the A100 type tencel and wool blended fabric, in the dyeing process, an auxiliary agent mixed solution containing a leveling agent and a retarding agent is sprayed, the auxiliary agent is firstly contacted with the grey cloth, then the dye and the grey cloth are subjected to contact dyeing, the auxiliary agent and the dye are separated, and the leveling property of the grey cloth is improved; by adopting the method of dye infiltration rolling dyeing and rolling color fixation, the gray fabric does not need to be completely soaked in a dye vat, the bath ratio of dyeing and color fixation is reduced, the liquid absorption amount and the liquid absorption time of the tencel are reduced, and the dyeing rates of the tencel fiber and the wool fiber are converged; the grey cloth is sprayed by adopting an upper and lower relative spraying method, the upper and lower sprayed liquids form interweaving on the surface and inside of the grey cloth, and have mutually conflicting acting forces and gradually disappeared acting forces, and the grey cloth has a gentle mechanical acting force, so that the tencel is uniformly fibrillated, local fibrillation is avoided, the level-dyeing property between the tencel fibers is further improved, and the color difference between the tencel fibers of the fabric in the front-back or left-right direction is reduced; meanwhile, if the fabric is in a short-hair style, the tencel fibers need to be fibrillated, and the tencel fibers are fibrillated in a spraying mode, so that the subsequent fibrillation procedures can be reduced, and the flow can be shortened; dye is soaked in the dye vats with gradient temperature, and air cooling intervals are arranged among the gradient dye vats, so that the initial dyeing rate can be effectively reduced, and the dye uptake rate of the dye is delayed; the initial dyeing rate is inhibited, a large amount of dye is prevented from being dyed on the tencel during the initial dyeing, and the tencel fiber and the wool fiber are dyed simultaneously when the tencel fiber and the wool fiber are wound and dyed, so that the dyeing uniformity of the tencel fiber and the wool fiber is further improved; the ammonia gas is used as a color fixing agent to fumigate the grey cloth, the ammonia gas is combined with water in the grey cloth to form weakly alkaline ammonia water, the color fixing reaction process of the weakly alkaline ammonia water on the grey cloth is mild and slow, the color fixing time is long, and the dye is combined with the grey cloth more firmly.

Detailed Description

The following further describes embodiments of the present invention with reference to examples. The following examples are only for illustrating the technical solutions of the present invention more clearly, and the protection scope of the present invention is not limited thereby.

The invention relates to a dyeing and finishing process of a wool and tencel blended fabric, which comprises the steps of gray fabric inspection → seam turning → singeing → desizing and scouring → bleaching → drying → rolling → dyeing → pine type drying → soft finishing → air washing → tentering → preshrinking → fulling → fuzzing → shearing → can steaming → finishing → finished product; the dyeing process specifically comprises the steps that the gray fabric advances at a constant speed through a traction roller, auxiliary agent mixed solution comprising a leveling agent and a retarding agent is vertically and oppositely sprayed to the gray fabric from the upper part and the lower part by a spray pipe, the sprayed gray fabric horizontally enters a dye vat at a constant speed for infiltration, the gray fabric infiltrated by dye solution is wound and dyed by a winding roller, the traction roller pulls the gray fabric to advance after the winding and dyeing are completed, the gray fabric is fumigated by ammonia gas, wound and fixed in color again, and soaping is performed after the color fixing is completed; wherein the concentration of the assistant mixed solution is 30g/L, and the spraying amount is 75 ml/m.

In the dye vat infiltration process, the dye vat is divided into a plurality of dye vats with gradient rising temperature, the temperature gradient of dye liquor in adjacent dye vats is 10 ℃, the temperature of the dye liquor in the initial dye vat is 40 ℃, and the temperature of the dye liquor in the last dye vat is 110 ℃; and before the grey cloth enters the adjacent dye vat, an air exposure and temperature reduction process is carried out, and the air exposure and temperature reduction time is 15 s.

The cloth feeding speed of the grey cloth is 8m/min, and the retention time of the grey cloth in each dye vat is 10 s; in the processes of rolling dyeing and rolling fixation, a rolling roller rotates at a constant speed, the rotation speed is 10rpm, and rolling dyeing and rolling fixation are carried out at the temperature of 70 ℃, wherein the rolling dyeing time is 25min, and the rolling fixation time is 15 min.

The dye solution comprises 1.8g/L of reactive dye and 35g/L of anhydrous sodium sulphate.

The bath ratio of soaping is 1:6, specifically, the color-fixed gray fabric is soaked in hot water at 60 ℃ for 13min, soaping agent is added, the temperature is raised to 90 ℃, the temperature is kept for 18min, the temperature is lowered to 60 ℃, air flow is rotated and washed for 10min, and liquid is discharged, wherein the temperature raising and lowering speed is 2.5 ℃/min.

The soft finishing is to perform two-dipping and two-rolling treatment on the grey cloth by using soft treatment liquid, wherein the soft treatment liquid comprises 11 parts by weight of castor oil, 18 parts by weight of fatty alcohol phosphate, 9 parts by weight of polyether, 11 parts by weight of pentaerythritol fatty acid ester, 2 parts by weight of fatty alcohol ethanolamide, 2 parts by weight of hydroxyethyl fatty amide, 9 parts by weight of fatty alcohol polyethylene glycol, 38 parts by weight of propylene glycol and 320 parts by weight of water.

The short and smooth wool-style tencel wool blended fabric finished by the dyeing and finishing process has the advantages of uniform color, small color difference, stiff and smooth fabric, softness and brightness, uniform and dense suede and soft hand feeling like cashmere.

The foregoing is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, and it should be noted that, for those skilled in the art, various modifications and decorations can be made without departing from the technical principle of the present invention, and these modifications and decorations should also be regarded as the protection scope of the present invention.