阅读说明：本技术 一种服装光影复合裁剪模式的放毛方法 (Fur releasing method in garment shadow composite cutting mode ) 是由 陶晓华 朱建龙 岳春明 胡慧平 钱文秀 郁翠竹 钱岳明 姚严君 于 2020-08-18 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明涉及一种服装光影复合裁剪模式的放毛方法,包括以下工艺步骤：步骤1,归号；根据订单量体数据参照规格表,对订单量体数据进行归号整理；步骤2,变体；步骤3,放毛；将变体之后得到的毛裁方案和精裁方案导入排版软件；将毛裁方案中需要粘衬的裁片,根据放毛量进行平行向四周放大,从而实现放毛；然后对所有裁片进行排版,进而得到裁剪文件；其中放毛后裁样片的外轮廓线为第一裁剪属性线,未放毛之前所提取的毛裁方案裁片轮廓线为第二裁剪属性线；步骤4,粗裁；步骤5,粘衬；步骤6,二次精裁；对裁片进行精确裁剪。本发明针对团体高端定制服装过程中的裁片生产,通过自动化处理,实现高效的裁片,大大提高了生产效率。(The invention relates to a fur releasing method in a garment shadow compound cutting mode, which comprises the following process steps: step 1, numbering; according to the order volume data, referring to a specification table, and performing numbering arrangement on the order volume data; step 2, modification; step 3, releasing wool; importing the haircut scheme and the fine cut scheme obtained after the variation into typesetting software; the cut pieces needing to be adhered and lined in the fur cutting scheme are amplified in parallel to the periphery according to fur release amount, so that fur release is realized; then typesetting all cut pieces to obtain a cut file; the outer contour line of the cut sample piece after the fur is placed is a first cutting attribute line, and the contour line of the cut piece of the fur cutting scheme extracted before the fur is placed is a second cutting attribute line; step 4, coarse cutting; step 5, adhering a lining; step 6, secondary fine cutting; and precisely cutting the cut pieces. Aiming at the production of cut pieces in the process of customizing clothes at high end of the group, the invention realizes high-efficiency cut pieces through automatic treatment and greatly improves the production efficiency.)

1. A fur releasing method in a garment shadow compound cutting mode is characterized by comprising the following process steps:

step 1, numbering; according to the order volume data, referring to a specification table, and performing numbering arrangement on the order volume data;

step 2, modification;

(1) drawing a template; drawing the template by template drawing personnel according to the style characteristics;

(2) establishing a first layer rule; establishing a first layer rule for each reference point in the sample plate according to different models in the specification table;

(3) establishing a second layer rule; establishing a second layer of rules for each dimension, length and positions with special body type processing on the template according to the change rules of the special body type;

(4) a variant; substituting the sample plate endowed with the second layer of rules into the order volume data after the number classification, and performing data engine driving to obtain sample plates of different body shapes for each person, thereby extracting a rough cutting scheme sample plate and a fine cutting scheme sample plate;

step 3, releasing wool; importing the haircut scheme and the fine cut scheme obtained after the variation into typesetting software; the cut pieces needing to be adhered and lined in the fur cutting scheme are amplified in parallel to the periphery according to fur release amount, so that fur release is realized;

then typesetting all cut pieces to obtain a cut file;

the outer contour line of the cut sample piece after the fur is placed is a first cutting attribute line, and the contour line of the cut piece of the fur cutting scheme extracted before the fur is placed is a second cutting attribute line;

step 4, coarse cutting; sending the cutting file to a rough cutting bed, and lifting a first cutting attribute line of the rough cut piece by the cutting bed according to the cutting attribute to cut the rough cut piece to obtain a roughly cut piece;

step 5, adhering a lining; adhering the lining to the cut pieces after rough cutting, and adhering the cut pieces after the lining is placed;

standing for 12h after the bonding is finished;

step 6, secondary fine cutting; and placing the cut pieces of the adhesive interlining on a fine cutting bed, and according to the light and shadow mode, extracting a second cutting attribute line by the cutting bed to accurately cut the cut pieces.

2. The method for releasing wool in the light and shadow combined tailoring mode of clothing according to claim 1, wherein in step 3, the amount of wool released is between 0.5cm and 1.2 cm.

3. The method as claimed in claim 1, wherein in step 1, the elements of the order volume data include volume number, length of the garment, shoulder width, sleeve length, chest circumference, waist circumference, trousers length and hip circumference.

4. The method of claim 3, wherein the processing the order volume data according to the customized garment style specification sheet and the body template modification rules to obtain the dimensional tolerance between the order volume data and the specification data in the customized garment style specification sheet comprises:

setting body type sample correction rules for the length of the garment, the width of the shoulder, the length of the sleeves, the chest circumference, the waist circumference, the length of the trousers and the hip circumference in the order volume data respectively;

subtracting the specification data in the required customized clothing style specification table from the order volume data to obtain a difference value between the specification data and the order volume data;

and processing the difference value between the specification data and the order volume data according to the body shape template correction rule to obtain the size tolerance.

5. The method as claimed in claim 4, wherein the step of ordering the volume data in the body pattern correction rule to obtain an ordering table in the body pattern correction rule, and the step of ordering the volume data in the data table exceeding the body pattern correction rule to obtain an ordering table exceeding the body pattern correction rule comprises the steps of:

sequencing a plurality of elements in the volume data in the body type template correction rule from small to large or from large to small in sequence according to the data of the elements to obtain a sequencing table in the body type template correction rule;

and sequencing a plurality of elements in the volume data in the data table exceeding the body type template correction rule in sequence from small to large or from large to small according to the data of the elements to obtain a sequencing table exceeding the body type template correction rule.

6. The method as claimed in claim 5, wherein when the data of the current element is sorted and the data of the next element is sorted, the current element with the same data is selected and the data of the next element is sorted.

7. The method as claimed in claim 6, wherein the step of ordering the volume data in the body shape template modification rules to obtain an ordering table in the body shape template modification rules and the step of ordering the volume data in the data table beyond the body shape template modification rules to obtain an ordering table beyond the body shape template modification rules comprises:

simultaneously sorting a plurality of elements in the volume data in the body shape template correction rule to obtain a sorting table in the body shape template correction rule;

and simultaneously sequencing a plurality of elements in the volume data in the data table exceeding the body type template correction rule to obtain a sequencing table exceeding the body type template correction rule.

8. The method of claim 7, wherein the step of creating a hair cutting plan for the body pattern correction rule according to the ranking table in the body pattern correction rule comprises: archiving according to volume data of the same size as the whole; filing the volume data in the sorting table of the body shape template correction rule separately according to the size; extracting data occupying the largest size of the part in the filed data as size data in the hair cutting plan table; as the only reference value for extracting the cropping scheme.

9. The method of claim 8, wherein the tailoring of the style sheet to make a fine-cut plan table comprises:

sorting the hair cutting numbers;

finely cutting the data into separate beds according to a mode of cutting at most five pieces by one;

and classifying the data with the same size in the order volume data into a fine cutting number as a unique reference value for extracting the data sample plate with the same size, and classifying the data sample plate with the same size into a fine cutting number if a part of the data sample plate with the same size is different from the fine cutting number to obtain a plurality of different fine cutting numbers as the unique reference value for extracting the data sample plates with different sizes.

Technical Field

The invention relates to a tailoring process of clothing production, in particular to a method for automatically splicing complex templates and then rapidly tailoring the templates.

Background

The secondary fine cutting and hair setting of the clothes is a procedure which must be carried out in the clothes field, particularly in the high-grade customization and batch group customization process, and the main purpose is that a spinning lining needs to be adhered to certain cut pieces of the clothes, and when the spinning lining is adhered to a press, the spinning lining is not adhered to a belt pulley of the press, so that the size of the lining is slightly smaller than that of the cut pieces of the clothes. However, when the order size of the garment is large and the garment needs to be cut in batch, in order to improve the cutting efficiency, the cut pieces at the adhesive interlining part need to be subjected to unhairing treatment and then to secondary fine cutting. On the surface fabric was laid through tailorring the paper model to the former mode of tailorring, drawn the contour line of paper model with the drawing powder earlier, then rethread translation paper model is to extending all around, draws the contour line of putting the hair again, then tailors according to the contour line of putting after the hair, later applies the lining, and the bonding is tailor according to the contour line of model again, has obtained final cut-parts. The traditional cutting mode is low in cutting efficiency, the hair placing precision is not accurate, great confusion is brought to clothes sewing parking places, and the product quality of the clothes is seriously reduced.

The existing clothing intelligent CAD technology and the automatic cutting bed technology are combined, and a solution capable of improving cutting precision and cutting efficiency is provided according to the use requirements.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to provide a fur releasing method for a garment shadow combined cutting mode, which realizes the method for releasing fur on a garment adhesive lining cutting piece and carrying out secondary fine cutting on an automatic cutting bed by a garment CAD through the shadow combined cutting mode so as to improve the cutting precision and the cutting efficiency.

In order to achieve the aim of the invention, the invention provides a fur releasing method in a garment shadow compound cutting mode, which is characterized by comprising the following process steps of:

step 1, numbering; according to the order volume data, referring to a specification table, and performing numbering arrangement on the order volume data;

step 2, modification;

(1) drawing a template; drawing the template by template drawing personnel according to the style characteristics;

(2) establishing a first layer rule; establishing a first layer rule for each reference point in the sample plate according to different models in the specification table;

(3) establishing a second layer rule; establishing a second layer of rules for each dimension, length and positions with special body type processing on the template according to the change rules of the special body type;

(4) a variant; substituting the sample plate endowed with the second layer of rules into the order volume data after the number classification, and performing data engine driving to obtain sample plates of different body shapes for each person, thereby extracting a rough cutting scheme sample plate and a fine cutting scheme sample plate;

step 3, releasing wool; importing the haircut scheme and the fine cut scheme obtained after the variation into typesetting software; the cut pieces needing to be adhered and lined in the fur cutting scheme are amplified in parallel to the periphery according to fur release amount, so that fur release is realized;

then typesetting all cut pieces to obtain a cut file;

the outer contour line of the cut sample piece after the fur is placed is a first cutting attribute line, and the contour line of the cut piece of the fur cutting scheme extracted before the fur is placed is a second cutting attribute line;

step 4, coarse cutting; sending the cutting file to a rough cutting bed, and lifting a first cutting attribute line of the rough cut piece by the cutting bed according to the cutting attribute to cut the rough cut piece to obtain a roughly cut piece;

step 5, adhering a lining; adhering the lining to the cut pieces after rough cutting, and adhering the cut pieces after the lining is placed;

standing for 12h after the bonding is finished;

step 6, secondary fine cutting; and placing the cut pieces of the adhesive interlining on a fine cutting bed, and according to the light and shadow mode, extracting a second cutting attribute line by the cutting bed to accurately cut the cut pieces.

As a further improvement of the invention, in the step 3, the hair-off amount is between 0.5cm and 1.2 cm.

As a further improvement of the present invention, in step 1, the elements of the order volume data include a volume number, a garment length, a shoulder width, a sleeve length, a chest circumference, a waist circumference, a trousers length and a hip circumference.

Further, processing the order volume data according to the required customized clothing style specification sheet and the body form template correction rule to obtain the dimensional tolerance between the order volume data and the specification data in the required customized clothing style specification sheet comprises:

setting body type sample correction rules for the length of the garment, the width of the shoulder, the length of the sleeves, the chest circumference, the waist circumference, the length of the trousers and the hip circumference in the order volume data respectively;

subtracting the specification data in the required customized clothing style specification table from the order volume data to obtain a difference value between the specification data and the order volume data;

and processing the difference value between the specification data and the order volume data according to the body shape template correction rule to obtain the size tolerance.

Still further, sorting the volume data in the body type template correction rule to obtain a sorting table in the body type template correction rule, and sorting the volume data in the data table exceeding the body type template correction rule to obtain a sorting table exceeding the body type template correction rule, including:

sequencing a plurality of elements in the volume data in the body type template correction rule from small to large or from large to small in sequence according to the data of the elements to obtain a sequencing table in the body type template correction rule;

and sequencing a plurality of elements in the volume data in the data table exceeding the body type template correction rule in sequence from small to large or from large to small according to the data of the elements to obtain a sequencing table exceeding the body type template correction rule.

And further, when the data of the current element is sorted and the data of the next element is sorted, selecting the current element with the same data to sort the data of the next element.

Still further, sorting the volume data in the body type template correction rule to obtain a sorting table in the body type template correction rule, and sorting the volume data in the data table exceeding the body type template correction rule to obtain a sorting table exceeding the body type template correction rule, including:

simultaneously sorting a plurality of elements in the volume data in the body shape template correction rule to obtain a sorting table in the body shape template correction rule;

and simultaneously sequencing a plurality of elements in the volume data in the data table exceeding the body type template correction rule to obtain a sequencing table exceeding the body type template correction rule.

Still further, a gross cutting scheme of the body type template correction rule is formulated according to the sorting table in the body type template correction rule, and the gross cutting scheme comprises the following steps: archiving according to volume data of the same size as the whole; filing the volume data in the sorting table of the body shape template correction rule separately according to the size; extracting data occupying the largest size of the part in the filed data as size data in the hair cutting plan table; as the only reference value for extracting the cropping scheme.

Still further, the fine-cutting scheme table for making the body type template correction rule according to the gross-cutting scheme table for the body type template correction rule comprises:

sorting the hair cutting numbers;

finely cutting the data into separate beds according to a mode of cutting at most five pieces by one;

and classifying the data with the same size in the order volume data into a fine cutting number as a unique reference value for extracting the data sample plate with the same size, and classifying the data sample plate with the same size into a fine cutting number if a part of the data sample plate with the same size is different from the fine cutting number to obtain a plurality of different fine cutting numbers as the unique reference value for extracting the data sample plates with different sizes.

The invention relates to a fur releasing method in a garment shadow compound cutting mode, which aims at cut piece production in the process of customizing garments at high end of a group and finishes the cut pieces by numbering; then, automatically putting hair by combining CAD software, forming a cutting file by matching with automatic typesetting, sending the cutting file to an automatic cutting bed for rough cutting, and carrying out secondary fine cutting after adhering a liner to obtain a final cut piece; through automated processing, realize the efficient cut-parts, improved production efficiency greatly.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a schematic flow chart of the steps of the present invention;

FIG. 2 is a schematic view of an attribute line of an initial rendered panel of the present invention;

fig. 3 is a schematic view of the rough cutting attribute line of the cut piece of the present invention.

Detailed Description

The invention is further described below with reference to the following figures and specific examples.

As shown in figure 1, the fur releasing method in the garment light and shadow compound cutting mode comprises the following steps:

step 1, numbering; according to the order volume data, referring to a specification table, and performing numbering arrangement on the order volume data;

step 2, modification;

(1) drawing a template; drawing the template by template drawing personnel according to the style characteristics;

(2) establishing a first layer rule; establishing a first layer rule for each reference point in the sample plate according to different models in the specification table;

(3) establishing a second layer rule; establishing a second layer of rules for each dimension, length and positions with special body type processing on the template according to the change rules of the special body type;

(4) a variant; substituting the sample plate endowed with the second layer of rules into the order volume data after the number classification, and performing data engine driving to obtain sample plates of different body shapes for each person, thereby extracting a rough cutting scheme sample plate and a fine cutting scheme sample plate; as shown in fig. 2;

step 3, releasing wool; importing the haircut scheme and the fine cut scheme obtained after the variation into typesetting software; the cut pieces needing to be adhered and lined in the fur cutting scheme are amplified in parallel to the periphery according to fur release amount, so that fur release is realized;

then typesetting all cut pieces to obtain a cut file;

the outer contour line of the cut sample piece after the fur is placed is a first cutting attribute line, and the contour line of the cut piece of the fur cutting scheme extracted before the fur is placed is a second cutting attribute line; as shown in fig. 3;

step 4, coarse cutting; sending the cutting file to a rough cutting bed, and lifting a first cutting attribute line of the rough cut piece by the cutting bed according to the cutting attribute to cut the rough cut piece to obtain a roughly cut piece;

step 5, adhering a lining; adhering the lining to the cut pieces after rough cutting, wherein the periphery of the lining is slightly smaller than the cut pieces after rough cutting by about 0.5c m;

standing for 12h after the bonding is finished, and ensuring that the cut pieces bonded at high temperature can be fully retracted;

step 6, secondary fine cutting; the cut pieces with the adhesive linings are placed on a fine cutting bed, and according to a light and shadow mode (refer to a compensation method of a composite cutting and shadow mode of the applicant in a prior patent application with a Chinese patent publication number of CN 108464552B), the cutting bed extracts a second cutting attribute line and precisely cuts the cut pieces, so that the hair releasing significance is realized.

According to the fur releasing method for the shadow and shadow combined cutting mode of the clothes, the cut pieces are automatically released to form a first cutting attribute line for rough cutting, and then the lining is adhered after the rough cutting, and the secondary fine cutting is carried out, so that the cutting precision and efficiency are greatly improved.

In the step 1, the order volume data (simple weighing volume data) of the clothing needing to be woolen-cut needs to be numbered, and a woolen cutting scheme and a fine cutting scheme are formed; the number-assigning method refers to a method and a system for assigning and analyzing the volume data of the large-scale clothing customization, which are disclosed in the prior patent application of the applicant and China patent publication No. CN 107784078A.

Further, the elements of the order volume data include a volume number, a garment length, a shoulder width, a sleeve length, a chest circumference, a waist circumference, a trouser length and a hip circumference.

Processing the order volume data according to the required customized clothing style specification table and the body form template correction rule to obtain the size tolerance between the order volume data and the specification data in the required customized clothing style specification table, wherein the size tolerance comprises the following steps:

setting body type sample correction rules for the length of the garment, the width of the shoulder, the length of the sleeves, the chest circumference, the waist circumference, the length of the trousers and the hip circumference in the order volume data respectively;

subtracting the specification data in the required customized clothing style specification table from the order volume data to obtain a difference value between the specification data and the order volume data;

and processing the difference value between the specification data and the order volume data according to the body shape template correction rule to obtain the size tolerance.

Sorting the volume data in the body type template correction rule to obtain a sorting table in the body type template correction rule, and sorting the volume data in the data table exceeding the body type template correction rule to obtain the sorting table exceeding the body type template correction rule, wherein the sorting table comprises:

sequencing a plurality of elements in the volume data in the body type template correction rule from small to large or from large to small in sequence according to the data of the elements to obtain a sequencing table in the body type template correction rule;

and sequencing a plurality of elements in the volume data in the data table exceeding the body type template correction rule in sequence from small to large or from large to small according to the data of the elements to obtain a sequencing table exceeding the body type template correction rule.

And when the data of the current element is sorted and the data of the next element is sorted, selecting the current element with the same data and sorting the data of the next element.

Sorting the volume data in the body type template correction rule to obtain a sorting table in the body type template correction rule, and sorting the volume data in the data table exceeding the body type template correction rule to obtain the sorting table exceeding the body type template correction rule, wherein the sorting table comprises:

simultaneously sorting a plurality of elements in the volume data in the body shape template correction rule to obtain a sorting table in the body shape template correction rule;

and simultaneously sequencing a plurality of elements in the volume data in the data table exceeding the body type template correction rule to obtain a sequencing table exceeding the body type template correction rule.

According to the sorting table in the body type template correction rule, a hair cutting scheme of the body type template correction rule is made, and the method comprises the following steps: archiving according to volume data of the same size as the whole; filing the volume data in the sorting table of the body shape template correction rule separately according to the size; extracting data occupying the largest size of the part in the filed data as size data in the hair cutting plan table; as the only reference value for extracting the cropping scheme.

The fine cutting scheme table for making the body type template correction rule according to the gross cutting scheme table of the body type template correction rule comprises the following steps:

sorting the hair cutting numbers;

finely cutting the data into separate beds according to a mode of cutting at most five pieces by one;

and classifying the data with the same size in the order volume data into a fine cutting number as a unique reference value for extracting the data sample plate with the same size, and classifying the data sample plate with the same size into a fine cutting number if a part of the data sample plate with the same size is different from the fine cutting number to obtain a plurality of different fine cutting numbers as the unique reference value for extracting the data sample plates with different sizes.

The number-assigning process is to find out the template with the corresponding number in the templates according to the basic number data in batch size and provide a precondition basis for subsequent variants; the number classification also reflects that the data customized for the measuring body is different from the data produced by common large goods, and the data has more measuring body data information and is more complex due to the variation difference of the body types; the number of templates generated after the deformation is large, so that the difficulty of subsequent hair and lining release is large, and the efficiency is low; one of the purposes of the invention is to realize batch wool-laying through the function of a software system and improve the wool-laying precision and the working efficiency.

In the step 2, because the invention aims at advanced customization, specific garment template modification needs to be carried out according to the volume data so as to meet the personalized garment requirements.

The variant is specifically: firstly, an original template needs to be coded, and the original template is a first-layer rule of a variant;

secondly, endowing the template with a change rule of a special body type on the basis of code grading, namely a second-layer variant rule;

and then, substituting the structured volume data to carry out engine driving to obtain a typesetting sample extracted by the tailoring scheme, namely modifying the obtained sample, wherein the outline attribute line of the sample is the second tailoring attribute line of the garment.

In the step 3, the emphasis of the wool releasing is to obtain the first tailoring attribute line of the garment, namely, the wool releasing is performed on the basis of the second tailoring attribute line of the garment.

Wherein, the second tailoring attribute line of the clothing, namely the secondary fine tailoring attribute line, is the attribute line of the clothing cutting piece drawn by the clothing cutting piece drawer initially (as shown in figure 1);

wherein, the hair-releasing amount is between 0.5 and 1.2 cm;

and (3) amplifying the second cutting attribute to the periphery in parallel according to the wool laying amount to obtain a first cutting attribute line of the garment, namely a rough cutting attribute line (as shown in figure 2).

Wherein, the hair removing method specifically comprises the following steps: performing engine driving by substituting the well-organized volume data to obtain a typesetting sample plate extracted by the cropping scheme;

on the basis, the cut pieces needing to be adhered with the interlining are parallelly enlarged to the periphery according to the qualitative wool laying amount, and a first cutting attribute line of the garment is obtained.

The engine driving is automatically carried out by CAD software according to rules, a bed-by-bed cutting file is formed after the cutting scheme is generated, and in order to ensure that the utilization rate of the cut fabric is more reasonable, the cutting file is sent to a graphic processing computer for typesetting calculation, so that the typesetting is more reasonable.

The wool-laying process is to lay wool on the sample wafer of the obtained wool-cutting scheme in CAD typesetting software without a paper sample.

The automatic hair-releasing is a functional module in the CAD typesetting software, but when the CAD automatic hair-releasing is to be realized, a large amount of work including number classification and the like needs to be done in the early stage, and the feasibility of the whole production process can be realized only by matching the later stage.

While the preferred embodiments of the present invention have been illustrated and described, it will be understood by those skilled in the art that various changes in form and details may be made therein without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention as defined by the appended claims.