阅读说明：本技术 一种手工皮鞋的制作方法 (Method for making handmade leather shoes ) 是由 韩建林 于 2019-02-26 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明实施例涉及手工制鞋技术领域,具体是一种手工皮鞋的制作方法,其包括根据脚的尺寸绘制多个标志点并根据所述标志点进行制作鞋楦、通过鞋楦制作半面版、鞋跟高度的确定、跷度调整、靴筒的制作、修改后跟弧线、在靴筒上设置松紧布等步骤,并且具体的公开了其中一些标记标志点的方法。有益效果是通过本方法制得的皮鞋具有更好的穿着舒适度,并且外观富有美感,通过本方法可以进行制作男鞋和女鞋,矮筒靴和高筒靴等不同形制的皮鞋,并可根据穿着者的脚型进行灵活调整,与传统的手工制作工艺相比得到了很大程度的精简且能够实现更佳的制作效果。(The embodiment of the invention relates to the technical field of manual shoe making, in particular to a method for making manual leather shoes, which comprises the steps of drawing a plurality of mark points according to the size of a foot, making a shoe tree according to the mark points, making a half-surface plate through the shoe tree, determining the height of a heel, adjusting the teetering degree, making a boot leg, modifying an arc line of the heel, arranging elastic cloth on the boot leg and the like, and particularly discloses a method for marking some mark points. The leather shoes manufactured by the method have better wearing comfort and attractive appearance, leather shoes in different shapes such as men's shoes, women's shoes, short boots, high boots and the like can be manufactured by the method, the leather shoes can be flexibly adjusted according to the foot shapes of wearers, and compared with the traditional manual manufacturing process, the leather shoes are simplified to a great extent and can realize better manufacturing effect.)

1. A method for manufacturing handmade leather shoes is characterized by comprising the steps of drawing a plurality of mark points according to the size of a foot and manufacturing a shoe tree according to the mark points, wherein the mark points comprise:

a and B, the foremost and rearmost end points of the last bottom, respectively, the foot length = the distance from a to B-the rear tolerance;

a1, first metatarsophalangeal joint site, distance a1 to B =72.5% x foot length-posterior tolerance;

a2, fifth metatarsophalangeal joint site, distance a2 to B =63.5% x foot length-posterior tolerance;

a3, external lumbar locus point, distance A3 to B =41% x foot length-posterior tolerance;

a4, lateral malleolus center site, a4 to B =22.5% x foot length-posterior tolerance;

c, height mark point on the calcaneus superior edge, distance from B to C =21.66% x foot length

D, marking points of the convexity of the heel of the last, wherein the distance between B and D is =8.8% multiplied by the length of the foot;

h0, which is the intersection point of the perpendicular line passing through A1 as a straight line AB and the bottom edge of the last;

h, is the intersection point of the perpendicular line of the straight line AB passing through A2 and the bottom edge of the last;

f is the intersection point of the perpendicular line passing through the A3 and making the straight line AB and the bottom edge of the last;

p is the intersection point of the perpendicular line passing through A4 and making the straight line AB and the bottom edge of the last;

q is a mark point of the height of the back upper middle seam, and the distance from C to Q is 4-10 mm;

v, is the first last mark point, and the distance from C to V =68.8% x foot length;

e, a second last surface mark point, wherein the distance between V and E is = 25-27% multiplied by the foot length;

and O, the third last mark point, and the distance from V to O =0.5 × V to H.

2. The method of making hand-made leather shoes according to claim 1, further comprising determining a heel height, comprising: and drawing an abscissa axis X and an ordinate axis Y respectively through the point H and the point C to construct a plane rectangular coordinate system with the coordinate origin as S, wherein the intersection point of the last bottom and the Y axis is G, and the distance from G to S is the height of the heel.

3. The method for making handmade leather shoes according to claim 1 or 2, further comprising a teeter adjustment comprising:

taking the V point as a circle center, and taking the distance from V to A as a radius to make a first circle;

taking the point O as a circle center, and taking the distance from O to A as a radius to make a second circle;

and passing through the point V and the point E to serve as extension lines, the extension lines and the first circle and the second circle are respectively intersected at the two points A5 and A6, a point A7 is taken on a connecting line of A5 and A6, the distance from A6 to A7 is equal to the distance from 1/3 multiplied by A5 to A7, and the purpose of adjusting the seesaw degree is achieved when A7 is overlapped with A.

4. The method for making handcraft leather shoes according to claim 3, further comprising the step of making a bootleg, comprising:

marking a point H1 on the Y axis according to the shoe height, wherein the difference between the ordinate of the H1 and the ordinate of the G point is the shoe height, the abscissa of the H1 is equal to-5 mm, a straight line parallel to the Y axis is drawn according to the length of the shank circumference, a marking point W is selected on the straight line, the ordinate of the W is 10mm larger than the ordinate of the H1, and the connecting line of the H1 and the W is the edge line of the boot barrel.

5. The method of claim further including modifying the heel curve, including: the mark points C, D, B are respectively moved backwards by 2, 3 and 5mm and are respectively defined as C1, D1 and B1, and the C1, D1 and B1 are actual heel mark points of the shoe tree.

6. The method of making handmade leather shoes according to claim 5, further comprising providing an elastic cloth on the shaft, the elastic cloth having a width = a distance of 2 xb 1-E-a distance of 2 xh 1-W.

7. The method for making handmade leather shoes according to claim 1, wherein the back tolerance is 3-5 mm.

Technical Field

The embodiment of the invention relates to the technical field of manual shoe making, in particular to a method for making manual leather shoes.

Background

At present, the customized leather shoes are manufactured according to the actual foot shapes of the wearers, so compared with the non-customized shoes, the customized leather shoes are more comfortable to wear, and are more and more popular with the consumers along with the improvement of the consumption level of people.

Disclosure of Invention

The embodiment of the invention provides a more advanced and widely applicable method for manufacturing handmade leather shoes so as to solve the problems.

In order to solve the technical problem, the embodiment of the invention discloses the following technical scheme:

a method for manufacturing handmade leather shoes comprises the steps of drawing a plurality of mark points according to the size of a foot and manufacturing a shoe tree according to the mark points, wherein the mark points comprise:

a and B, the foremost and rearmost end points of the last bottom, respectively, the foot length = the distance from a to B-the rear tolerance;

a1, first metatarsophalangeal joint site, distance a1 to B =72.5% x foot length-posterior tolerance;

a2, fifth metatarsophalangeal joint site, distance a2 to B =63.5% x foot length-posterior tolerance;

a3, external lumbar locus point, distance A3 to B =41% x foot length-posterior tolerance;

a4, lateral malleolus center site, a4 to B =22.5% x foot length-posterior tolerance;

c, height mark point on the calcaneus superior edge, distance from B to C =21.66% x foot length

D, marking points of the convexity of the heel of the last, wherein the distance between B and D is =8.8% multiplied by the length of the foot;

h0, which is the intersection point of the perpendicular line passing through A1 as a straight line AB and the bottom edge of the last;

h, is the intersection point of the perpendicular line of the straight line AB passing through A2 and the bottom edge of the last;

f is the intersection point of the perpendicular line passing through the A3 and making the straight line AB and the bottom edge of the last;

p is the intersection point of the perpendicular line passing through A4 and making the straight line AB and the bottom edge of the last;

q is a mark point of the height of the back upper middle seam, and the distance from C to Q is 4-10 mm;

v, is the first last mark point, and the distance from C to V =68.8% x foot length;

e, a second last surface mark point, wherein the distance between V and E is = 25-27% multiplied by the foot length;

and O, the third last mark point, and the distance from V to O =0.5 × V to H.

As a preferred technical solution of the embodiment of the present invention, the method for manufacturing handmade leather shoes further comprises determining a heel height, including: and drawing an abscissa axis X and an ordinate axis Y respectively through the point H and the point C to construct a plane rectangular coordinate system with the coordinate origin as S, wherein the intersection point of the last bottom and the Y axis is G, and the distance from G to S is the height of the heel.

As a preferred technical scheme of the embodiment of the invention, the manufacturing method of the handmade leather shoes further comprises the step of adjusting the teetering degree, which comprises the following steps: taking the V point as a circle center, and taking the distance from V to A as a radius to make a first circle; taking the point O as a circle center, and taking the distance from O to A as a radius to make a second circle; and passing through the point V and the point E to serve as extension lines, the extension lines and the first circle and the second circle are respectively intersected at the two points A5 and A6, a point A7 is taken on a connecting line of A5 and A6, the distance from A6 to A7 is equal to the distance from 1/3 multiplied by A5 to A7, and the purpose of adjusting the seesaw degree is achieved when A7 is overlapped with A.

As a preferable technical scheme of the embodiment of the invention, the method for manufacturing the handmade leather shoes further comprises the step of manufacturing the bootlegs, a point H1 is marked on the Y axis according to the height of the shoes, the difference between the ordinate of the H1 and the ordinate of the G point is the height of the shoes, the abscissa of the H1 is equal to-5 mm, a straight line parallel to the Y axis is made according to the length of the circumference of the lower leg, a mark point W is selected on the straight line, the ordinate of the W is 10mm larger than the ordinate of the H1, and the connecting line of the H1 and the W is the edge line of the bootlegs.

As a preferred technical solution of the embodiment of the present invention, the method for manufacturing handmade leather shoes further comprises modifying a heel arc, including: the mark points C, D, B are respectively moved backwards by 2, 3 and 5mm and are respectively defined as C1, D1 and B1, and the C1, D1 and B1 are actual heel mark points of the shoe tree.

As a preferable technical solution of the embodiment of the present invention, the method for manufacturing handmade leather shoes further comprises arranging an elastic cloth on the bootleg, wherein the width of the elastic cloth = the distance from 2 × B1 to E and the distance from-2 × H1 to W.

In the above technical solution, preferably, the rear tolerance is 3-5 mm.

According to the technical scheme, the method for manufacturing the handmade leather shoes has high originality, the leather shoes manufactured by the method have better wearing comfort and attractive appearance, leather shoes manufactured in different shapes such as men's shoes, women's shoes, short boots, high boots and the like can be manufactured by the method, flexible adjustment can be performed according to the foot shapes of wearers, and compared with the traditional handmade process, the method is simplified to a great extent and can realize better manufacturing effect.

Drawings

In order to more clearly illustrate the embodiments of the present invention or the technical solutions in the prior art, the drawings used in the description of the embodiments will be briefly described below, and it is obvious for those skilled in the art that other drawings can be obtained based on these drawings without any inventive effort.

FIG. 1 is a schematic view of each mark point on the bottom of the last in the method for manufacturing handmade leather shoes according to the embodiment of the present invention;

FIG. 2 is a schematic view of each mark point in the main view direction of the last in the method for manufacturing handmade leather shoes according to the embodiment of the present invention;

FIG. 3 is a schematic view of a method for determining the height of a heel in the method for manufacturing handmade leather shoes according to an embodiment of the present invention;

FIG. 4 is a schematic view of a method for adjusting the teetering degree in the method for manufacturing hand-made leather shoes according to the embodiment of the present invention;

FIG. 5 is a schematic view showing the effect of the manual leather shoe before and after adjustment of the teetering degree in the manufacturing method of the manual leather shoe according to the embodiment of the present invention;

FIG. 6 is a schematic view of a method for making a bootleg in the method for making handmade leather shoes according to an embodiment of the present invention;

FIG. 7 is a table showing the general dimensional references for the leg boots in the method for making handmade leather shoes according to the embodiment of the present invention;

FIG. 8 is a schematic view of a method for modifying the heel arc in the method for making the hand-made leather shoes according to the embodiment of the present invention;

fig. 9 is a schematic view of a method for manufacturing elastic fabric in the method for manufacturing handmade leather shoes according to the embodiment of the present invention.

Detailed Description

In order to make those skilled in the art better understand the technical solution of the present invention, the technical solution in the embodiment of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below with reference to the drawings in the embodiment of the present invention, and it is obvious that the described embodiment is only a part of the embodiment of the present invention, and not all embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.

Referring to fig. 1 and 2, fig. 1 is a schematic view of each mark point at the bottom of a shoe last in a method for manufacturing a hand-made leather shoe according to an embodiment of the present invention, and fig. 2 is a schematic view of each mark point in a main view direction of the shoe last in a method for manufacturing a hand-made leather shoe according to an embodiment of the present invention. Wherein in the process of manufacturing the shoe tree, the overall shape and size of the shoe tree are mainly designed, and a plurality of marking points are required to be marked on the shoe tree, and the marking points comprise:

a and B, the foremost and rearmost end points of the last bottom, respectively, the foot length = the distance from a to B-the rear tolerance;

a1, first metatarsophalangeal joint site, distance a1 to B =72.5% x foot length-posterior tolerance;

a2, fifth metatarsophalangeal joint site, distance a2 to B =63.5% x foot length-posterior tolerance;

a3, external lumbar locus point, distance A3 to B =41% x foot length-posterior tolerance;

a4, lateral malleolus center site, a4 to B =22.5% x foot length-posterior tolerance;

c, height mark point on the calcaneus superior edge, distance from B to C =21.66% x foot length

D, marking points of the convexity of the heel of the last, wherein the distance between B and D is =8.8% multiplied by the length of the foot;

h0, which is the intersection point of the perpendicular line passing through A1 as a straight line AB and the bottom edge of the last;

h, is the intersection point of the perpendicular line of the straight line AB passing through A2 and the bottom edge of the last;

f is the intersection point of the perpendicular line passing through the A3 and making the straight line AB and the bottom edge of the last;

p is the intersection point of the perpendicular line passing through A4 and making the straight line AB and the bottom edge of the last;

q is a mark point of the height of the seam in the back upper, when the machine is adopted for lasting, the distance from C to Q is preferably 4-5 mm, and when the manual lasting is adopted, the distance from C to Q is preferably 8-10 mm;

v, is the first last mark point, and the distance from C to V =68.8% x foot length;

e, a second last surface mark point, wherein the distance between V and E is = 25-27% multiplied by the foot length;

and O, the third last mark point, and the distance from V to O =0.5 × V to H.

The rear tolerance is 3-5 mm, and preferably 4 mm.

The shoe tree made by the mark points can better conform to the shape of the foot of a human body, and the foot of the leather shoe made by the shoe tree feels more comfortable when the shoe tree is worn. After the shoe tree is manufactured, the half-face plate is manufactured by using the shoe tree, which is a more uniform manufacturing process in the industry and is not disclosed in detail. After the half-surface plate is manufactured, certain adjustment and further manufacturing are needed, wherein the heel height is determined, as shown in fig. 3, fig. 3 is a schematic diagram of a method for determining the heel height in the manufacturing method of the handmade leather shoes provided by the embodiment of the invention, and it can be seen that the specific method comprises the following steps: and drawing an abscissa axis X and an ordinate axis Y respectively through the point H and the point C to construct a plane rectangular coordinate system with the coordinate origin as S, wherein the intersection point of the last bottom and the Y axis is G, and the distance from G to S is the height of the heel. The height of the heel obtained by the method can be richer in visual aesthetic feeling, and the problems of asymmetry, visual gravity center descending, boot falling and the like after the opening and the publishing do not occur.

On the basis of the above embodiment of the invention, the manufacturing method of the handmade leather shoes further comprises a teetering degree adjustment, as shown in fig. 4 and 5, fig. 4 is a schematic diagram of the teetering degree adjustment in the manufacturing method of the handmade leather shoes provided by the embodiment of the invention, fig. 5 is a schematic diagram of effects before and after the teetering degree adjustment in the manufacturing method of the handmade leather shoes provided by the embodiment of the invention, and the specific method comprises the following steps: taking the V point as a circle center, and taking the distance from V to A as a radius to make a first circle; taking the point O as a circle center, and taking the distance from O to A as a radius to make a second circle; and passing through the point V and the point E to serve as extension lines, the extension lines and the first circle and the second circle are respectively intersected at the two points A5 and A6, a point A7 is taken on a connecting line of A5 and A6, the distance from A6 to A7 is equal to the distance from 1/3 multiplied by A5 to A7, and the purpose of adjusting the seesaw degree is achieved when A7 is overlapped with A.

Next, the bootleg is required to be manufactured, please refer to fig. 6 and 7, fig. 6 is a schematic diagram of the method for manufacturing the bootleg in the method for manufacturing handmade leather shoes according to the embodiment of the present invention, and fig. 7 is a table of reference dimensions commonly used for manufacturing the bootleg in the method for manufacturing handmade leather shoes according to the embodiment of the present invention. The manufacturing method comprises the following steps: marking a point H1 on the Y axis according to the shoe height, wherein the difference between the ordinate of the H1 and the ordinate of the G point is the shoe height, such as a man short boot with the shoe height of 130mm, the abscissa of H1 is equal to-5 mm, a straight line parallel to the Y axis is made according to the length of the lower leg circumference, the lower leg circumference can be actually measured and can be known to be 185-200 according to a size reference table, a marking point W is selected on the straight line, the ordinate of W is 10mm larger than the ordinate of H1, and the connecting line of H1 and W is the edge line of the boot barrel.

Due to the thickness of the material, if the radian of the heel is not modified, the foot squeezing and the leather shoes are deformed, and in order to make the leather shoes more fit the foot shape, the manufacturing method of the handmade leather shoes further comprises the step of modifying the arc line of the heel, as shown in fig. 8. Fig. 8 is a schematic view of a method for modifying a heel arc line in the method for manufacturing handmade leather shoes according to the embodiment of the present invention, which specifically includes: and moving the mark point C, D, B backwards by 2, 3 and 5mm respectively and defining the mark points as C1, D1 and B1 respectively, wherein the C1, D1 and B1 are actual shoe tree heel mark points, and performing natural rounding according to the shoe tree heel mark points.

As a further technical solution of the embodiment of the present invention, as shown in fig. 9, fig. 9 is a schematic view of a method for manufacturing elastic cloth in the method for manufacturing handmade leather shoes according to the embodiment of the present invention, the method for manufacturing handmade leather shoes further includes arranging the elastic cloth on the bootleg, and when the elastic cloth is pulled, that is, when the extensibility of the elastic cloth is the largest, the entire foot can be inserted into the shoe more than the foot girth. However, the degree of tightness should not be too small, so that the tightness cloth must be used with too much force each time the cloth is used, and the sewing part is forced to be pulled and damaged. The elastic size of the elastic cloth is preferably between 1/3 and 1/2 of half of the circumference of the opening. Specifically, the width of the elastic fabric = a distance of-2 × H1 to W from a distance of 2 × B1 to E.