阅读说明：本技术 包含分散在硅酮相中的无水球状体的化妆品组合物 (Cosmetic composition comprising anhydrous spheroids dispersed in a silicone phase ) 是由 瓦蕾莉·德拉博特里 塞布丽娜·马尼格特 阿米尔·马萨内利 于 2018-12-20 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明涉及一种无水化妆品组合物,其包含直径为0.1mm至10mm且熔点高于50℃的无水球状体,所述球状体由在室温下为固体的化妆品上可接受的脂质基质组成,所述脂质基质包括：(a)至少一种烃油,和任选地用于使所述烃油胶凝的胶凝剂,和/或(b)至少一种蜡,所述球状体分散在包含至少一种硅酮油的不混溶的连续相中。更具体地,该化妆品组合物可以是口红或粉底。(The present invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising anhydrous spheroids having a diameter of 0.1mm to 10mm and a melting point higher than 50 ℃, said spheroids consisting of a cosmetically acceptable lipid matrix that is solid at room temperature, said lipid matrix comprising: (a) at least one hydrocarbon oil, and optionally a gelling agent for gelling said hydrocarbon oil, and/or (b) at least one wax, said spheroids being dispersed in an immiscible continuous phase comprising at least one silicone oil. More specifically, the cosmetic composition may be a lipstick or a foundation.)

1. An anhydrous cosmetic composition characterized in that it comprises anhydrous spheroids having a diameter of 0.1mm to 10mm and a melting point higher than 50 ℃, said spheroids consisting of a cosmetically acceptable lipid matrix that is solid at room temperature, said lipid matrix comprising:

(a) at least one hydrocarbon oil, and optionally a gelling agent for said hydrocarbon oil, and/or

(b) At least one kind of wax is added to the mixture,

the spheroids are dispersed in an immiscible continuous phase comprising at least one silicone oil.

2. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein said spheroids are free of any external coating.

3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the hydrocarbon oil (a) is a volatile hydrocarbon oil and/or a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the lipid matrix comprises a gelling agent for the hydrocarbon oil chosen from silicas, clays, optionally modified hectorites, dextrin esters, silicone polyamides or polyamides, amides of L-glutamic acid or of aspartic acid, hydrocarbon block copolymers comprising at least one styrene unit.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the lipid matrix comprises at least one wax (b) chosen from hydrocarbon waxes and/or polyethylene waxes, preferably from hydrocarbon waxes.

6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the lipid matrix comprises at least one pigment or pearlizing agent, preferably an organic pigment or an inorganic pigment.

7. Cosmetic composition according to any of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the melting point of the spheroids is comprised between 60 ℃ and 120 ℃, preferably between 70 ℃ and 100 ℃.

8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the silicone oil of the continuous phase is a volatile silicone oil and/or a non-volatile silicone oil.

9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the continuous phase is gelled by at least one silicone oil gelling agent, preferably fumed silica or silica aerogel particles.

10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the spheroids represent from 5% to 70% by weight, preferably from 10% to 60% by weight and even more preferably from 20% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

11. A process for manufacturing a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it comprises the following steps:

(i) a step of preparing a lipid matrix constituting the anhydrous spheroids by homogenizing at least one hydrocarbon oil (a) and optionally a gelling agent and/or at least one wax (b) for the hydrocarbon oil, with stirring, at a temperature of 50 ℃ to 120 ℃,

(ii) (ii) a step of shaping the liquid mixture obtained in step (i) by dispersing into an aqueous phase heated to 50 ℃ to 120 ℃ under stirring,

(iii) (iii) a step of cooling the dispersion obtained in step (ii) by adding an aqueous phase to obtain spheroids,

(iv) (iv) a step of separating the spheroids obtained in step (iii) by filtration at room temperature,

(v) (iv) a step of drying the spheroids obtained in step (iv),

(vi) (vi) a step of dispersing the spheroids obtained in step (v) in a continuous phase comprising at least one silicone oil under stirring.

12. Use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 for making up and/or caring for the skin of the body or face, in particular the lips.

13. A lipstick characterized in that it comprises a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10.

14. A foundation characterized in that it comprises the cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1 to 10.

15. A method for making up and/or caring for the skin of the body or face, in particular the lips, characterized in that it comprises the following steps:

(i') collecting an amount of the cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1 to 10 in an amount required for at least one application,

(ii') shear mixing said anhydrous spheroids with said immiscible continuous phase comprising at least one silicone oil, and

(iii') applying the thus mixed cosmetic composition to the skin of the body or face, especially the lips.

16. The method according to claim 15, wherein the shear mixing step is performed directly on the skin of the body or face, for example using a finger, or within a dispensing device containing the cosmetic composition prior to application to the skin of the body or face.

Technical Field

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising anhydrous spheroids dispersed in an immiscible continuous phase comprising at least one silicone oil. More particularly, the cosmetic composition may be a lipstick or a foundation.

Background

The cosmetic industry is constantly searching for compositions that produce surprising effects. These may be compositions having an initial visual appearance, for example by dispersing solid particles of different colours in a transparent continuous phase. They may also be new compositions that combine properties that are difficult to correlate using conventional techniques, such as freshness and gloss, freshness and durability, gloss and durability.

However, obtaining a stable composition by combining immiscible phases is not an easy task due to stability problems caused by incompatibility between the phases.

In emulsions where two liquid phases are combined, the skilled person attempts to prevent coalescence of the globules of the dispersed phase leading to phase separation, for example by using surfactants to stabilise the droplets.

In the case of visible solid particles dispersed in a liquid or gelled continuous phase, the solid particles are typically dispersed or suspended in the continuous phase. It is particularly important to avoid gradual diffusion of the continuous phase into the solid particles or, conversely, diffusion of the material constituting the solid particles into the continuous phase. This is particularly problematic when the continuous phase is translucent or transparent, since any diffusion of material into the continuous phase can then be immediately seen.

A first problem of the present invention is therefore to obtain a stable anhydrous composition in the form of solid spheroids dispersed in a continuous phase, wherein said spheroids are sufficiently hard at room temperature to retain their shape and integrity, do not deform and do not release material in the continuous phase which is immiscible with said spheroids.

A second problem of the present invention is to obtain a biphasic composition in which the spheroids have a sufficiently flexible structure that they can be easily crushed and applied to the skin by a slight shearing or squeezing movement (e.g. using the fingers). Thus, the spheroids can be easily mixed with the continuous phase to form a single phase when applied to, for example, the skin or lips, and thus combine the properties of both phases.

Compositions comprising spheroids in a continuous phase have been described in the prior art.

FR 2649608 describes, for example, a composition comprising a continuous phase in the form of a hydrogel, comprising lipid spheroids suspended in the continuous phase, the lipid spheroids having an average diameter between 50 μm and 10000 μm and a melting point below 50 ℃. The hardness of low melting spheroids is insufficient, which affects their shape (polydisperse and heterogeneous spheroids) and the stability of the final composition.

The inventors have observed that an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising spheroids consisting of a lipid matrix with a melting point higher than 50 ℃, said spheroids being dispersed in a continuous phase comprising at least one silicone oil, is able to solve the above problems in a very surprising manner.

Unexpectedly, they also showed good spreading properties for the high melting spheres. Thus, the anhydrous compositions of the present invention are very easy to apply and produce a surprising texture when applied to the skin, the spheroids and immiscible continuous phase in which the spheroids are dispersed are mixed in situ to disperse to enhance sensory and/or color performance, such as skin surface gloss (shine), persistence, sensory stimulation or comfort characteristics. It can be observed that the composition according to the invention shifts from a gel to a cream and/or from a mixture of differently coloured spheroids with a continuous phase to a single uniform colour, while a surprising sensory effect is produced due to the simultaneous contact of the two immiscible phases with the skin.

To date, anhydrous compositions whose immiscible phases solve the above problems have not been proposed.

Disclosure of Invention

According to a first aspect, a subject of the present invention is an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising anhydrous spheroids having a diameter ranging from 0.1mm to 10mm and a melting point higher than 50 ℃, said spheroids consisting of a cosmetically acceptable lipid matrix comprising:

(a) at least one hydrocarbon oil, and optionally a gelling agent for said hydrocarbon oil, and/or

(b) At least one kind of wax is added to the mixture,

the spheroids are dispersed in an immiscible continuous phase comprising at least one silicone oil.

For the purposes of the present invention, a "lipid matrix" refers to a homogeneous composition based on fatty substances (i.e. not comprising a coating surrounding a core), i.e. comprising (a) at least one hydrocarbon oil and/or (b) at least one wax.

For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "immiscible" means that the spheroids of the invention do not diffuse, decompose or swell in their dispersed phase.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "spheroid" refers to a small solid body of substantially spherical shape, solid at room temperature, having the same composition throughout the spheroid. Room temperature refers to a temperature between 15 ℃ and 27 ℃, more commonly between 20 ℃ and 25 ℃. The spheroids may vary in diameter from 0.1mm to 10mm, preferably from 0.3mm to 8mm, more preferably from 0.5mm to 5mm, even more preferably from 1mm to 3mm, the diameter being the average diameter measured ten times by conventional methods (e.g. using a binocular magnifier or sieve). These spheroids preferably have a regular appearance, a smooth surface and a uniform volume.

Advantageously, the spheroids of the invention are free of any external coating layer intended to separate the lipid matrix from the external medium (i.e. the continuous phase), having a composition different from that of the lipid matrix.

In the context of the present invention, the term "anhydrous" means that the water content of the object is preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of the object.

The spheroids of the present invention consist of a lipid matrix whose texture is sufficiently soft and deformable at room temperature so that they can be easily applied to the skin with low shear forces (e.g. with the fingers) to produce a skin care or cosmetic effect on the skin.

The inventors have observed that the nature of the ingredients used in the composition of spheroids of the invention may influence not only the ease of application of these spheroids, but also their final performance.

Thus, according to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrocarbon oil (a) is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils and/or non-volatile hydrocarbon oils. It is preferably a mixture of hydrocarbon oils.

The hydrocarbon oil (a) and optionally the gelling agent for said hydrocarbon oil may be present in the following amounts relative to the total weight of the lipid matrix: from 5 to 99.5 wt.%, preferably from 10 to 95 wt.%, more preferably from 20 to 90 wt.%, even more preferably from 30 to 85 wt.%, even more preferably from 40 to 80 wt.%.

For the purposes of the present invention, "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil that contains mainly carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms, and may contain oxygen atoms, nitrogen atoms, sulfur atoms, and phosphorus atoms.

Volatile hydrocarbon oils, as defined herein, are oils that are capable of evaporating at room temperature and atmospheric pressure in less than one hour after contact with the skin. The volatile oil or oils according to the invention are oils which are liquid at room temperature and have a vapour pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure which is not zero, in particular of between 0.13Pa and 40000Pa (10 Pa)^-3mmHg to 300mmHg), particularly 1.3Pa to 13000Pa (0.01mmHg to 100mmHg), more particularly 1.3Pa to 1300Pa (0.01mmHg to 10 mmHg). Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils are those which remain on the skin for at least several hours at room temperature and atmospheric pressureOils, especially with a vapour pressure of less than 0.13Pa (10)^-3mmHg) oil.

The volatile hydrocarbon oils of the invention are advantageously chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular branched alkanes having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, for example isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins) having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4, 6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, for example under the trade name Isopar^TMOr oils sold by permethys (exxonmobil chemical); branched esters having 8 to 16 carbon atoms (such as isohexyl pivalate), and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils may also be used, such as petroleum distillates, including those sold by shelll solt. The volatile hydrocarbon oil may also be selected from linear alkanes having 8 to 16 carbon atoms. An example of a linear alkane having 8 to 16 carbon atoms is n-nonadecane (C)₉) N-decane (C)₁₀) N-undecane (C)₁₁) N-dodecane (C)₁₂) N-tridecane (C)₁₃) N-tetradecane (C)₁₄) N-pentadecane (C)₁₅) N-hexadecane (C)₁₆) And mixtures thereof, especially the mixture of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) sold by Cognis as CETIOL UT.

According to one embodiment, the volatile linear alkane suitable for use in the present invention may be selected from the group consisting of n-nonadecane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, and mixtures thereof.

The volatile hydrocarbon oil of the invention is advantageously chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

As non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as fatty acids and triglycerides (comprising fatty acids of 4 to 24 carbon atoms), these oils being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. These oils are advantageously wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, almond oil, castor oil, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil and cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia nut oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oilPumpkin (pumpkin) oil, sesame oil, squash (squash) oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, chestnut (bancoulier) oil, passion flower oil, musk rose oil; or caprylic/capric triglycerides, such as those sold by St. arreriniae Dubois or Dynamit Nobel810. Those sold 812, 818, and 829; or linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin having from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, e.g. vaseline, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutene (e.g. petrolatum)) Squalane and mixtures thereof; synthetic esters, e.g. Purcellin^TM(ketostearyl octanoate) oil, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, an alcohol benzoate having 12 to 15 carbon atoms, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, an octanoate, decanoate or ricinoleate of an alcohol or polyol (e.g. propylene glycol dicaprylate); hydroxy esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and esters of pentaerythritol; fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature and have a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain of 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol; higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid; carbonates, acetals, citrates, and mixtures thereof.

When the lipid matrix of the invention does not comprise a wax (b), one or more hydrocarbon oils (a) are combined with at least one gelling agent for said hydrocarbon oil.

The gelling agent for the hydrocarbon oil is preferably chosen from silica, clays, optionally modified hectorites, dextrin esters, polyamides or silicone polyamides, amides of aspartic acid or of L-glutamic acid, hydrocarbon block copolymers comprising at least one styrene unit.

For the purposes of the present invention, a hectorite may be a hectorite modified by: quaternary alkylammonium chlorides (quaternary ammonium chlorides), preferably ammonium substituted with at least one, preferably at least two, alkyl groups having from 14 to 20 carbon atoms. The alkyl group may advantageously be a stearyl group. Mention may be made of compounds having the INCI name disteardimonium hectorite (disteardimonium hectorite), in which the ammonium comprises two methyl groups and two stearyl groups.

For the purposes of the present invention, dextrin esters are esters of dextrins and fatty acids, said fatty acids containing from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, even more preferably from 14 to 18 carbon atoms. Preferably, the dextrin ester is selected from dextrin myristate, dextrin palmitate and mixtures thereof.

For the purposes of the present invention, the amide of L-glutamic acid (glutamine) or of aspartic acid preferably comprises at least one alkyl group containing from 6 to 14 carbon atoms, for example 8 or 12 carbon atoms. Such amides of glutamic acid are described, for example, in patent FR 2820739. The glutamine is preferably selected from dibutyl lauroyl glutamine, dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamine and mixtures thereof and may be, for example, one of the brand products EB-21, GP-1, AJK-OD2046, AJK-BG2055 and AJK-CE2046 manufactured by Ajinomoto. The glutamine is for example selected from dibutyl lauroyl glutamine and dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamine, or mixtures thereof.

The amide or mixture of amides, in particular glutamine, represents, for example, 0.1% to 15.0%, 1.0% to 15.0%, 0.5% to 8.0%, 1.0% to 5.0%, 0.8% to 5%, or 2.0% to 3.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the lipid matrix.

For the purposes of the present invention, hydrocarbon block copolymers comprising at least one styrene unit are preferably block copolymers of styrene and olefins, for example copolymers comprising at least one styrene unit and a unit selected from butadiene, ethylene, propylene, butylene, isoprene and mixtures thereof. The hydrocarbon block copolymer of the invention is advantageously selected from the group consisting of styrene-ethylene/propylene copolymers, styrene-ethylene/propylene-styrene copolymers, styrene-ethylene/butadiene-styrene copolymers, styrene-isoprene-styrene copolymers, styrene-butadiene-styrene copolymers, styrene-ethylene/butylene-styrene copolymers, styrene/methylstyrene/indene copolymers and mixtures thereof.

The wax(s) (b) used in the context of the present invention may be lipophilic compounds which are solid at room temperature, having a reversible solid/liquid state change with a melting temperature above 30 ℃, preferably from 50 ℃ to 120 ℃, more preferably from 60 ℃ to 110 ℃, even more preferably from 70 ℃ to 100 ℃. For the purposes of the present invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the maximum endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard NF EN ISO 11357-3. The melting temperature of the wax can be measured using a Differential Scanning Calorimeter (DSC), such as that sold as DSC Mettler Toledo.

The wax mixture may advantageously be formed by mixing a wax having a high melting temperature (i.e. a melting temperature above 50 c, preferably above 70 c) with a wax having a lower melting temperature (i.e. a melting temperature below 50 c, preferably below or equal to 40 c). The mixture of wax having a high melting temperature and wax having a low melting temperature must be such that spheroids having a melting point higher than 50 ℃ can be obtained.

Spheroids of the invention may advantageously be characterized by a melting point (or drop point) of from 50 ℃ to 120 ℃, more preferably from 60 ℃ to 110 ℃, even more preferably from 70 ℃ to 100 ℃. The melting point of the lipid matrix corresponds to the temperature at which the first drop of the lipid matrix appears when the lipid matrix is heated.

The wax(s) (b) used in the context of the present invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin which are solid at room temperature, and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the wax (b) or waxes of the invention may be chosen from:

hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, lanolin wax, chinese insect wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, alpha wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax, berry wax (berry wax), shellac wax, japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange and lemon wax, paraffin and ozokerite, polymethylene wax, polyethylene wax, polypropylene and ethylene/propylene copolymers thereof, waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having a linear or branched fatty chain of 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as isomerized jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower seed oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, di (trimethylol-1, 1, 1-propane) tetrastearate and di (trimethylol-1, 1, 1-propane) tetrastearate;

-fatty alcohol waxes selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols having from 20 to 60 carbon atoms,

silicone waxes, such as alkyl-or alkoxy-dimethylpolysiloxanes having from 16 to 45 carbon atoms, or fluorinated waxes, and

mixtures thereof.

According to a particularly advantageous embodiment, the wax(s) (b) are non-polar waxes, preferably selected from hydrocarbon waxes, such as microcrystalline wax SP-88 and microcrystalline wax SP-16W (Strahl and Pitsch Inc.), and/or polyethylene waxes, such as(Jen International Corporation) and(Baker Hughes), most preferably a hydrocarbon wax. The hydrocarbon wax of the present invention is advantageously a wax containing 18 to 60 carbon atoms.

The content of the one or more waxes (b) may be from 0.5% to 95% by weight, preferably from 3% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 3% to 60% by weight, even more preferably from 4% to 45% by weight, even more preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the lipid matrix constituting the anhydrous spheroid of the invention.

The anhydrous spheroids of the invention may also comprise at least one pigment or pearlizing agent (nacre), preferably an organic pigment or an inorganic pigment. The pigment or pearlescent agent of the present invention may be surface treated, i.e., one or more surface treatments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical, and/or mechanical nature.

The content of pigment or pearlizing agent is advantageously between 0 and 20% by weight, preferably between 2% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the lipid matrix.

The continuous phase of the compositions of the present invention that is immiscible with the anhydrous spheroids comprises at least one volatile and/or non-volatile silicone oil.

Volatile silicone oils, for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular volatile silicone oils having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, may be referred to as volatile silicone oils. As volatile silicone oils which can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made preferentially of cyclopentyldimethylsiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of linear volatile alkyltrisiloxane oils chosen from 3-butyl-1, 1,1,3,5,5, 5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, 3-propyl-1, 1,1,3,5,5, 5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, and 3-ethyl-1, 1,1,3,5,5, 5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

The preferred volatile silicone oil is cyclopentadimethylsiloxane.

The non-volatile silicone oil which can be used in the composition according to the invention can be a Polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) comprising at least one alkyl or alkoxy group advantageously having from 12 to 24 carbon atoms in the middle and/or at the end of the silicone chain, a phenylated silicone such as phenyltrimethicone, phenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsilicone, diphenyldimethicone, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxane, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicate.

The continuous phase may also include a fluorinated oil selected from the group consisting of fluorosilicone oils, fluoropolyethers, and fluorosilicones. Volatile fluorinated oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane may be used.

According to a preferred embodiment, the continuous phase is gelled by at least one silicone oil gelling agent. The gelling agent for the silicone oil may be chosen from fumed silica, clays, optionally modified hectorites, dextrin esters, glycerides and polyamides. Advantageously, the gelling agent is chosen from fumed silica and silica aerogel particles. Fumed silica is chemically modified at the surface by a chemical reaction, thereby reducing the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. In particular, the silanol groups may be substituted with hydrophobic groups such as:

-trimethylsiloxy groups, in particular obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. According to CTFA (8 th edition, 2000), the silicon dioxide treated in this way is called "silica silylate". For example, they are manufactured by EVONIK industry as AerosilRThe product is sold and sold,

dimethylsilyloxy or polydimethylsiloxane radicals, in particular obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. According to CTFA (2000, 8 th edition), the silicon dioxide treated in this way is called "disilylated silica". For example, they are manufactured by EVONIK industry as AerosilAnd AerosilAnd (5) selling.

The use of a gelling agent for silicone oils makes it possible to obtain a continuous gelled phase. The continuous gel phase is preferably translucent or transparent. The term "translucent" means that the continuous phase allows light to diffuse through without clearly distinguishing the contours of the spheroids contained therein. The term "transparent" means that the continuous phase allows light to refract through it, which makes it possible to clearly distinguish the spheroids it contains. This property of transparency is particularly desirable when dispersing colored spheroids in a siliconized continuous phase, which can produce a very appealing visual effect.

The continuous phase may also advantageously comprise a silicone elastomer, preferably pre-dispersed in a silicone oil. The silicone elastomer is generally in the form of a gel, paste or powder, advantageously in the form of a gel, in which the silicone elastomer is dispersed in a hydrocarbon oil and/or a silicone oil. The silicone elastomer is advantageously selected from the group consisting of Polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) (or dimethylsilicone fluids), methyl-polysiloxanes (MQ), vinyl-methyl-polysiloxanes (VMQ), phenyl-vinyl-methyl-Polysiloxanes (PVMQ), fluoro-vinyl-methyl-polysiloxanes (FVMQ) and mixtures thereof. Specifically, these include gels KSG-15 and KSG-16 sold by Shin-Etsu Silicone, DC 9040 and DC 9041 sold by Dow Corning, and Gransil PC-12 sold by Grant industries, Inc.

The continuous phase may include a film-forming polymer. Film-forming polymers are defined as polymers capable of forming a continuous film on a substrate. The film-forming polymer may be of natural or synthetic origin and is advantageously chosen from:

-a trimethylsiloxysilicate having at least one hydroxyl group,

phenylalkylsiloxysilicates in which the alkyl group preferably contains from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate,

siloxane acrylate polymers, for example acrylate/dimethylsiloxane copolymers, in particular acrylate/dimethylsiloxane copolymers in cyclopentasiloxane (for example KP-545 from Shin-Etsu), acrylate/dimethylsiloxane copolymers in methyltrimethylsiloxane (for example KP-579 from Shin-Etsu), acrylate/dimethylsiloxane copolymers in isododecane (for example KP-550 from Shin-Etsu); acrylate/polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymers, in particular in polydimethylsiloxane(e.g., from Dow)FA-4003DM) of (A), acrylate/polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymers in isododecane (e.g., from Dow)FA-4004ID of (a),

polyalkylsilsesquioxanes having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably polymethylsilsesquioxanes (e.g. from Momentive)A flexible resin),

trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoylpolymaltotriose in which the alkyl radical contains from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoylpolymaltotriose (for example TSPL-30-ID from Shin-Etsu),

copolymers of Vinylpyrrolidone (VP), preferably of VP and olefins having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, for example copolymers of VP/eicosene, VP/vinyl acetate, VP/ethyl methacrylate/methacrylic acid, VP/hexadecene, VP/triacontane, VP/styrene, VP/acrylic acid/lauryl methacrylate, butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP),

copolymers of vinyl esters, preferably vinyl acetate/allyl stearate, vinyl acetate/vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate/vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate/octadecene, vinyl acetate/octadecyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate/allyl laurate, vinyl propionate/vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate/octadecene-1, vinyl acetate/dodecene-1, vinyl stearate/ethyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate/cetyl vinyl ether, vinyl stearate/allyl acetate, dimethyl-2, 2-vinyl caprylate/vinyl laurate, dimethyl-2, 2-vinyl valerate/vinyl laurate, vinyl dimethylpropionate/vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate, vinyl propionate, vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate, vinyl propionate, vinyl laurate, vinyl propionate, Vinyl dimethyl propionate/vinyl stearate,

hydrogenated or unhydrogenated polyolefins, preferably polymers or copolymers of olefins having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, for example polybutenes, polyisobutylenes, polydecenes,

alkylcelluloses, preferably alkylcelluloses with alkyl groups of 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethylcellulose and propylcellulose,

-polyvinyl alcohol, and

mixtures thereof.

The film-forming polymer is preferably selected from silicone polymers (e.g. trimethylsiloxysilicate); phenylalkylsiloxysilicates in which the alkyl group preferably contains 1 to 6 carbon atoms (e.g. phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate); and copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone.

The anhydrous cosmetic compositions of the present invention may also contain additives commonly used in the cosmetic field, such as fillers or preservatives, depending on the intended end use.

The filler may be mineral or organic and may be of any shape, lamellar, spherical or oblong.

The filler is chosen in particular from inorganic fillers, such as talc; mica of natural or synthetic origin; kaolin; metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; zinc oxide, titanium oxide, calcium carbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, glass beads, ceramic beads, and mixtures thereof.

Organic fillers, such as crosslinked or uncrosslinked starch, crosslinked or uncrosslinked, spherical or nonspherical, expanded or nonswelled synthetic polymer powders, such as polyethylene powders, polyester powders (e.g., isophthalate or terephthalate), polyamide powders (e.g., poly- β -alanine powders, and nylon powders, for example, to improve the mechanical properties of the polymerThose sold); poly (methyl)) Acrylic acid or poly (meth) acylate powder such as crosslinked methyl methacrylate powder; polyurethane powders, e.g. obtained from TOSHIKI by PLASTICD-400 and PLASTICD-800, a copolymer of hexamethylene diisocyanate and trimethylol caprolactone sold under the trade name; divinylbenzene-crosslinked polystyrene powder; silicone resin powder (e.g. silsesquioxane) or tetrafluoroethylenePowders, and mixtures thereof, may also be used as fillers.

In the cosmetic composition of the present invention, the weight ratio of the anhydrous spheroids may be from 5% to 70% by weight, preferably from 10% to 60% by weight, even more preferably from 20% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

A second object of the present invention relates to a process for preparing a cosmetic composition according to the invention, comprising the following steps:

(i) a step of preparing a lipid matrix constituting anhydrous spheroids by homogenizing at least one hydrocarbon oil (a) and optionally a gelling agent and/or at least one wax (b) for said hydrocarbon oil, with stirring, at a temperature of 50 ℃ to 120 ℃,

(ii) (ii) a step of forming by dispersing the liquid mixture obtained in step (i) in an aqueous phase heated to 50 ℃ to 120 ℃ with stirring,

(iii) a step of quenching the dispersion obtained in step (ii) by adding an aqueous phase, preferably having a temperature of less than or equal to 0 ℃,

(iv) (iv) a step of separating the spheroids obtained in step (iii) by filtration, for example using molecular sieves, at room temperature,

(v) (iv) a step of drying the spheroids obtained in step (iv) at room temperature to remove residual water,

(vi) (vi) a step of dispersing the spheroids obtained in step (v) in a continuous phase comprising at least one silicone oil under stirring.

The continuous phase comprising at least one silicone oil may be gelled by adding a gelling agent for the silicone oil, either before or after the step of dispersing the spheroids in the continuous phase. The continuous phase is then heated to a temperature of from 50 ℃ to 120 ℃, preferably to a temperature of 85 ℃, and the gelling agent is incorporated into the silicone oil with stirring. Once the continuous phase is homogenized (no particles), it is cooled to room temperature.

A third object of the present invention relates to the use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention for making up and/or caring for the skin of the body or face, in particular the lips.

The invention also relates to lipsticks and foundations comprising the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

Finally, a final object of the invention relates to a makeup and/or care method for the skin of the body or face, in particular the lips, comprising the following steps:

(i') collecting an amount of the cosmetic composition according to the invention in an amount required for carrying out at least one application,

(ii') shear mixing the anhydrous spheroids comprised in the cosmetic composition of the invention with an immiscible continuous phase comprising at least one silicone oil, and

(iii') applying the thus mixed cosmetic composition to the skin of the body or face, especially the lips.

The step of mixing by shearing can be carried out directly on the skin of the body or face, for example using the fingers (direct application), or beforehand in a dispensing device (for example a bag) containing the cosmetic composition (indirect application). In the latter case, the texture of the cosmetic composition may be dispersed in the form of spheroids, which are then crushed during application or modified to a cream or gel within the dispensing device prior to application to the skin.

In addition to the above, the present invention includes further provisions which will become apparent from the additional description which follows, which relates to the preparation of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.

Examples