阅读说明：本技术 一种大衣生产工艺 (Overcoat production process ) 是由 朱伟东 于 2020-03-31 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明公开了一种大衣生产工艺,包括以下步骤：S1：布料裁剪：将大衣打板成型后裁剪出大衣各个位置的纸样,沿外侧实线剪下纸样并将各部件平铺在面料上,用大头针固定好后裁剪面料,里料也按照同样的方法裁剪,粘合衬粗裁。本发明的工艺流程中拼缝处的织带粘衬,不但能使成品在拼缝处更加牢固,还能使拼缝的线条更加流畅和精致,在制作过程中,缝线过程始终伴随着熨烫,熨烫是非常重要的环节,可以让服装的轮廓更完美,面料更加平整精致,在半成品整烫还能使辅料的定位更加精准无误差。(The invention discloses a production process of overcoat, which comprises the following steps: s1: cloth cutting: cutting out patterns at each position of the overcoat after the overcoat is subjected to template forming, cutting the patterns along the outer solid line, flatly paving all the parts on the fabric, fixing the patterns by pins, cutting out the fabric, cutting out the lining according to the same method, and roughly cutting out the adhesive interlining. The woven tape lining at the abutted seams in the process flow can ensure that finished products are firmer at the abutted seams and the abutted seam lines are smoother and more delicate, the sewing process is always accompanied with ironing in the manufacturing process, ironing is an important link, the outline of the clothes can be more perfect, the fabric is smoother and more delicate, and the positioning of auxiliary materials can be more accurate and error-free in the ironing of semi-finished products.)

1. The production process of the overcoat is characterized by comprising the following steps:

s1: cloth cutting: cutting out patterns at each position of the overcoat after the overcoat is subjected to template forming, cutting the patterns along an outer solid line, flatly paving all parts on the fabric, fixing the patterns by using pins, cutting the fabric, cutting the lining according to the same method, and roughly cutting the adhesive interlining;

s2: adhering and sewing a lining: when the fabric is cut, cutting openings are punched at corresponding positions according to a paper pattern, adhesive linings are pasted on all parts of the garment piece, the lining cloth of the pocket and the front surface of the surface cloth are relatively laid flat and fixed by pins, and the bag is sewn along seams; after sewing, the two ends are in a cylindrical shape, then the surface cloth and the lining cloth are respectively ironed by an iron, the cut sticking bag is placed on the corresponding position on the front piece, and the open line is pressed;

s3: sewing front and rear garment pieces: sewing the two sides and the back center of the front and the back pieces, ironing and flattening the edge seams at the sewing positions of the front and the back pieces, and ironing and flattening the edge seams at the sewing positions of the front and the back pieces; sewing the side seams of the front and rear garment pieces, fixing the shoulder lines of the front and rear garment pieces by pins, sewing along the seams, and leaving the seam at the open end without sewing;

s4: front and rear side panels and a liner were sewn: ironing the oxter hem with an iron, sewing the cut collar opposite to the front of the clothes body from the shoulder to the rear side, fixing the rear center of the lining cloth with a pin, sewing along the seam, sewing the over surface of the lining cloth with the front piece of the surface cloth, sewing the rear piece and the rear side piece of the lining cloth, and sewing the front side piece and the front piece; sewing the side seams of the front and the rear pieces of the lining cloth, ironing the lining cloth, rightwards inverting the rear central seam part, inverting the rest towards the side seam direction, sewing the shoulder seam of the lining cloth, and sewing the lining cloth and the other collar;

s5: manufacturing a collar: cutting off the collar at the corner of stitching the collar, ironing the sewing edge of the collar and the clothes body, the shoulder line and the like, and sewing the collar and the fine dried noodles;

s6: manufacturing sleeves: turning the front side to the upper side for ironing, ironing the seam, turning the surface cloth arranged below the clothes body inwards and ironing by an iron, then inserting edges by a hand needle, aligning the surface of the sleeve piece relative to the lateral line, sewing along the seam, sewing the sleeve lining cloth, aligning the surface cloth of the sleeve and the lining cloth lateral seam, pressing lines and fixing, turning the surface of the sleeve lining cloth outwards to cover the surface cloth, turning the sleeve piece of the surface cloth inwards, turning the lining cloth inwards, and ironing by the iron; sewing surface cloth and lining cloth at the positions of cuffs by using a hand needle to sew edges, sewing a circle of thread at armholes of the surface cloth, sewing sleeves with a clothes body, sewing the sleeve lining cloth with the clothes body, sewing the clothes body lining cloth with the sleeve lining cloth, fixing the edges of the pockets by using a pin needle and sewing by using a hand needle;

s7: and (3) buckling and forming: the buttonholes and the buttons are locked, and the overcoat is manufactured.

2. A overcoat production process as claimed in claim 1, wherein the lower hem of the cut fabric in S1 is 0.25cm-0.35cm longer than the lower hem of the fabric.

3. A process for manufacturing a overcoat as claimed in claim 1, wherein said adhesive interlining in S2 is adhered by auxiliary pressing with a steam iron.

4. A process for manufacturing a garment as claimed in claim 1, wherein in the sewing of the front and rear side panels and the side panels in S4, the sewing portion is 1cm at the rear center from the upper end between 8cm and 35cm, and 1.7cm at the remaining position.

5. A process for manufacturing a garment as claimed in claim 1 wherein the cuts are replaced by a chalk, marked by a cut line on the pattern of 1cm to 1.2cm in width.

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of overcoat production, in particular to an overcoat production process.

Background

The overcoat refers to a dress of women, a long dress worn by a visitor, a longer western-style coat and the like. The style is generally spliced transversely on the waist and the waist is fit. In the 20 th century in 19 th century, overcoat became daily life clothes, which were as long as slightly below knees, lapel, waist-in, and front-of-garment type with single-row and double-row buttons. In 1860 years, the length of the overcoat becomes even, the waist has no seam, the lapel is reduced, the collar is decorated with velvet or fur, mainly the pocket is pasted, and the overcoat is made of multi-purpose woolen fabrics. Women's overcoat appeared at the end of the 19 th century, which is developed on the basis of women's wool gown, and has a long coat body, a large lapel and a waisted type, and most of the women's overcoat is made of velvet. The western-style coat was introduced into china with the suit in the middle of about 19 th century.

The existing methods for manufacturing a plurality of overcoat are all manufactured by matching of machinery and hands, ironing and lining positioning are lacked in the manufacturing process, and the overcoat has a plurality of positioning and sewing deviations after being produced.

Disclosure of Invention

Based on the technical problems in the background art, the invention provides a production process of a overcoat.

The invention provides a production process of overcoat, which comprises the following steps:

s1: cloth cutting: cutting out patterns at each position of the overcoat after the overcoat is subjected to template forming, cutting the patterns along an outer solid line, flatly paving all parts on the fabric, fixing the patterns by using pins, cutting the fabric, cutting the lining according to the same method, and roughly cutting the adhesive interlining;

s2: adhering and sewing a lining: when the fabric is cut, cutting openings are punched at corresponding positions according to a paper pattern, adhesive linings are pasted on all parts of the garment piece, the lining cloth of the pocket and the front surface of the surface cloth are relatively laid flat and fixed by pins, and the bag is sewn along seams; after sewing, the two ends are in a cylindrical shape, then the surface cloth and the lining cloth are respectively ironed by an iron, the cut sticking bag is placed on the corresponding position on the front piece, and the open line is pressed;

s3: sewing front and rear garment pieces: sewing the two sides and the back center of the front and the back pieces, ironing and flattening the edge seams at the sewing positions of the front and the back pieces, and ironing and flattening the edge seams at the sewing positions of the front and the back pieces; sewing the side seams of the front and rear garment pieces, fixing the shoulder lines of the front and rear garment pieces by pins, sewing along the seams, and leaving the seam at the open end without sewing;

s4: front and rear side panels and a liner were sewn: ironing the oxter hem with an iron, sewing the cut collar opposite to the front of the clothes body from the shoulder to the rear side, fixing the rear center of the lining cloth with a pin, sewing along the seam, sewing the over surface of the lining cloth with the front piece of the surface cloth, sewing the rear piece and the rear side piece of the lining cloth, and sewing the front side piece and the front piece; sewing the side seams of the front and the rear pieces of the lining cloth, ironing the lining cloth, rightwards inverting the rear central seam part, inverting the rest towards the side seam direction, sewing the shoulder seam of the lining cloth, and sewing the lining cloth and the other collar;

s5: manufacturing a collar: cutting off the collar at the corner of stitching the collar, ironing the sewing edge of the collar and the clothes body, the shoulder line and the like, and sewing the collar and the fine dried noodles;

s6: manufacturing sleeves: turning the front side to the upper side for ironing, ironing the seam, turning the surface cloth arranged below the clothes body inwards and ironing by an iron, then inserting edges by a hand needle, aligning the surface of the sleeve piece relative to the lateral line, sewing along the seam, sewing the sleeve lining cloth, aligning the surface cloth of the sleeve and the lining cloth lateral seam, pressing lines and fixing, turning the surface of the sleeve lining cloth outwards to cover the surface cloth, turning the sleeve piece of the surface cloth inwards, turning the lining cloth inwards, and ironing by the iron; sewing surface cloth and lining cloth at the positions of cuffs by using a hand needle to sew edges, sewing a circle of thread at armholes of the surface cloth, sewing sleeves with a clothes body, sewing the sleeve lining cloth with the clothes body, sewing the clothes body lining cloth with the sleeve lining cloth, fixing the edges of the pockets by using a pin needle and sewing by using a hand needle;

s7: and (3) buckling and forming: the buttonholes and the buttons are locked, and the overcoat is manufactured.

As a further scheme of the invention, the lower hem of the lining of the cut fabric in the S1 is 0.25cm-0.35cm longer than the lower hem of the fabric.

As a further aspect of the present invention, in S2, the bonding pad is bonded and pressed with the aid of a steam iron.

In a further aspect of the present invention, in the sewing of the front and rear side panels and the liner in S4, a seam allowance is set to 1cm from the upper end of the rear center to a position between 8cm and 35cm, and a seam allowance is set to 1.7cm from the remaining position.

As a further scheme of the invention, the cut can be replaced by drawing powder, and the cut is marked by the width of a cutting line on the paper pattern, which is 1cm-1.2 cm.

The beneficial effects of the invention are as follows: this meshbelt of piece department glues lining in overcoat production process bonds through closing the lining, not only enables the finished product more firm in piece department, can also make the lines of piece more smooth and exquisite, and in the course of making, the suture process is along with ironing all the time, and ironing is very important link, can let the profile of clothing more perfect, and the surface fabric is more level and more smooth exquisite, scalds whole the location that can also make the auxiliary material more accurate error-free at semi-manufactured goods.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a process flow chart of a production process of a overcoat provided by the invention

Fig. 2 is a schematic structural diagram of a finished product of a overcoat production process provided by the invention.

Detailed Description

The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below with reference to the drawings in the embodiments of the present invention, and it is obvious that the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all of the embodiments.

Referring to fig. 1-2, a production process of overcoat, the specific flow is subdivided into the following steps:

1. cutting off a paper pattern along an outer solid line, flatly paving all parts on the fabric, fixing the fabric by pins and then cutting the fabric;

2. cutting lining material according to the same method, roughly cutting adhesive interlining, and making lining material with large size of 0.3cm

3. When the fabric is cut, a cut of about 5mm is made at a corresponding position according to a paper pattern;

4. sticking adhesive linings to each part of the garment pieces;

5. the lining cloth of the pocket and the front surface of the surface cloth are relatively placed flat and fixed by pins, the two ends of the pocket are sewn into a cylindrical shape along the sewing portion of 1cm, and then the surface cloth and the lining cloth are respectively ironed by an iron;

6. putting the cut sticking pocket on the corresponding position on the front sheet, and pressing an open line at a position 1mm away from the edge;

7. sewing the two sides of the front and rear garment pieces and the center of the back along the sewing portion of 1cm, then ironing and flattening the sewing edge at the sewing position of the front and rear garment pieces, ironing and flattening, and cutting a plurality of cuts at the arc line to ensure flattening;

8. the edges of the sewed positions of the front piece and the rear piece are split and ironed to be flat, and a plurality of notches can be formed at the arc line position to ensure the flatness;

9. sewing the front and back garment pieces at the side seams, wherein the width of the seam is 1.2 cm;

10. fixing the shoulder lines of the front and rear body garment pieces by pins, sewing along the sewing parts, and leaving 1.2cm at the open end without sewing;

11. the armpit is sewn and ironed by an iron, and the shoulder is positioned towards the back side;

12. the cut collar is opposite to the front surface of the clothes body and is sewn, and the width of the seam is 1 cm;

13. fixing the back center of the lining cloth by using a pin, and sewing along the seam;

14. sewing the front surface of the lining cloth with the front piece of the surface cloth, wherein the width of the sewing part is 1 cm;

15. sewing the back piece and the back side piece of the lining cloth with the width of 1.2cm

16. Sewing the front side piece and the front piece, wherein the width of the sewing part is 1.2 cm;

17. sewing the side seams of the front and the rear pieces of the lining cloth, wherein the width of the seam is 1.2 cm;

18. ironing the lining cloth, pouring the central rear seam part rightwards, pouring the rest parts rightwards to the side seam direction, and pressing for 3mm during ironing;

19. sewing the shoulder seam of the lining cloth, wherein the width of the seam is 1.2 cm;

20. sewing the lining cloth with another collar by 1 cm;

21. a 7mm cut is made at the corner of the collar stitching;

22. the sewing position of the collar and the clothes body, the seam edges of shoulder lines and the like are ironed to be smooth;

23. sewing the collar and the fine dried noodles, wherein the width of the sewn part is 1 cm;

24. turning the front surface upwards to the front surface for ironing, and ironing the seam parts;

25. turning the lower hem cloth of the clothes body inwards for 2cm, ironing the clothes by using an iron, and inserting edges by using a hand pin;

26. aligning the surface of the sleeve relative to the lateral line, and sewing along 1.2cm seam allowance;

27. sewing the sleeve lining cloth, keeping the width of the seam part to be 1.2cm, pressing 0.3cm, ironing and flattening;

28. aligning the side seams of the surface cloth and the lining cloth of the sleeves, pressing lines and fixing along the positions 5mm away from the sewing lines, and pressing approximately 10cm or so;

29. covering the surface of the sleeve lining cloth with the surface cloth turned outwards, turning the sleeve product of the surface cloth inwards by 5.5cm, turning the lining cloth inwards by 1.5cm, and ironing by using an iron;

30. sewing the surface cloth and the lining cloth by using a hand needle at a position 2.5cm away from the cuff;

31. adjusting the stitch length of the machine to be 4, stitching a circle of thread at the armholes of the surface cloth, and sewing the seam to be 7 mm;

32. sewing the sleeves and the clothes body, wherein the width of the sewing part is 1 cm;

33. sewing the sleeve interlining with the clothes body, wherein the width of the sewing part is 1 cm;

34. sewing the lining cloth of the clothes body and the lining cloth of the sleeves, fixing the nest edge by using a pin and sewing by using a hand needle;

35. and (5) locking the buttonholes and the buttons, and finishing the overcoat.

The above description is only for the preferred embodiment of the present invention, but the scope of the present invention is not limited thereto, and any person skilled in the art should be considered to be within the technical scope of the present invention, and the technical solutions and the inventive concepts thereof according to the present invention should be equivalent or changed within the scope of the present invention.