阅读说明：本技术 一种油包水体系皮肤修复多肽组合物 (Water-in-oil system skin repair polypeptide composition ) 是由 丁文锋 观富宜 彭晏 黄春青 于 2019-12-19 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明公开一种油包水体系皮肤修复多肽组合物,属于美容多肽技术领域,所述皮肤修复多肽组合物包含具有促进胶原蛋白生成作用的多肽,所述多肽存在于水相当中,各多肽质量百分浓度为0.0001％-5％,所述水相与油相形成油包水体系。所述油相包含表面活性剂、油性润肤剂。与水基体系相比,本发明所述皮肤修复多肽组合物采用油包水体系,多肽成分溶于少量水相,使得油包水体系中局部多肽浓度更高,更易于透皮吸收,在皮肤的蓄积量更高,同样的投料量可以达到更优异的皮肤修复效果,而且稳定性好、安全性高、制备工艺简单、成本低廉、适于工业化大生产。(The invention discloses a water-in-oil system skin repair polypeptide composition, which belongs to the technical field of beauty polypeptide, and comprises polypeptides with the function of promoting collagen generation, wherein the polypeptides exist in a water phase, the mass percentage concentration of each polypeptide is 0.0001-5%, and the water phase and an oil phase form a water-in-oil system. The oil phase comprises a surfactant and an oily emollient. Compared with a water-based system, the skin repair polypeptide composition adopts a water-in-oil system, polypeptide components are dissolved in a small amount of water phase, so that the concentration of local polypeptide in the water-in-oil system is higher, the transdermal absorption is easier, the accumulation amount of the polypeptide in skin is higher, the same feeding amount can achieve more excellent skin repair effect, and the skin repair polypeptide composition is good in stability, high in safety, simple in preparation process, low in cost and suitable for industrial mass production.)

1. A water-in-oil system skin repair polypeptide composition, comprising a polypeptide having collagen production promoting effect, selected from one or more of the following polypeptides, including but not limited to: the polypeptide with collagen production promoting effect exists in an aqueous phase, the mass percentage concentration of each polypeptide is 0.0001-5%, and the aqueous phase and an oil phase form a water-in-oil system.

2. The water-in-oil system skin repair polypeptide composition of claim 1, wherein the polypeptide composition further comprises a polypeptide having laminin production promoting effect selected from one or more of the following polypeptides, including but not limited to: hexapeptide-8, hexapeptide-9, hexapeptide-10, palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminobutyrylhydroxythreonine and palmitoyl dipeptide-6-diaminohydroxybutyric acid, wherein the mass percentage concentration of each polypeptide is 0.0001-5%.

3. The water-in-oil system skin repair polypeptide composition of claim 1, wherein the polypeptide composition further comprises a polypeptide having elastin promoting activity, including but not limited to: palmitoyl hexapeptide-12, wherein the mass percentage concentration of the polypeptide is 0.0001-5%.

4. The water-in-oil system skin repair polypeptide composition of claim 1, wherein the polypeptide composition further comprises a polypeptide having a proteoglycan deficiency complementing function selected from the group consisting of one or more of the following polypeptides, including but not limited to: acetyl tetrapeptide-9, acetyl tetrapeptide-11 and tripeptide-10citrulline, wherein the mass percentage concentration of each polypeptide is 0.0001-5%.

5. The water-in-oil system skin rejuvenating polypeptide composition as set forth in claim 1 wherein said oil phase comprises a surfactant, an oily emollient.

6. The water-in-oil system skin repair polypeptide composition as claimed in claim 5, wherein the surfactant is one or more selected from the group consisting of PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-6 glyceryl caprylate/caprate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, and polyglyceryl-4 laurate, and the concentration of each component is 1-10% by weight.

7. The water-in-oil system skin repair polypeptide composition according to claim 5, wherein the oily emollient is one or a combination of hydrogenated polyisobutene, caprylic/capric triglyceride, isononyl isononanoate, and the concentration of the oily emollient is 70-90% by weight.

8. The water-in-oil system skin rejuvenation polypeptide composition as recited in claim 7 wherein said oily emollient further comprises a vegetable oil, said vegetable oil being camellia oil, jojoba oil, nut oil, sunflower oil.

9. The water-in-oil system skin repair polypeptide composition of claim 1, wherein the water-in-oil system skin repair polypeptide composition is used primarily for preparing skin care products or medical products for external application to the skin.

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the technical field of beauty polypeptide, and relates to a water-in-oil system skin repair polypeptide composition.

Background

In human skin, 70% is composed of collagen. With the increase of age and the influence of ultraviolet rays, collagen will be greatly lost, and collagen and glycosaminoglycan synthesized by fibroblasts will also be reduced, so that collagen peptide bonds and elastic nets supporting the skin are hardened and broken, the net structure of the dermis layer of the skin is loose and then is damaged, collapse occurs, and the skin is loosened, wrinkled and dry.

In the defense and nursing process of skin natural aging, the active polypeptide plays a unique and important physiological role, is used as an important molecule in the natural process of skin repair, participates in the process of skin repair under multiple natural states, can promote the proliferation of skin cells, can provide nutrition for the skin, delays the skin aging and promotes the repair of skin wounds, and attracts the wide attention of researchers. At present, the polypeptide is widely added into skin care products as one of active raw materials for skin repair. These active polypeptides are water soluble and therefore the products on the market are also water based, in which the polypeptides are dissolved. This brings about another problem that polypeptides are easily degraded in an aqueous solution, and the direct addition of polypeptide components to a water-based product results in poor stability of polypeptides in the product, so that the original polypeptides with high-efficiency activity cannot sufficiently exert their skin-repairing effect, and degradation products generated by degradation of polypeptides in the product may potentially cause harm to human body. In addition, water-soluble substances are difficult to be absorbed through the skin barrier, and thus it is difficult to sufficiently exert their skin-repairing effects. In order to increase the transdermal absorption and achieve the desired effect, the amount of the feed needs to be increased, which leads to an increase in cost.

Therefore, a skin repair product which has the advantages of good stability, high safety, easy transdermal absorption, low cost, simple preparation process, suitability for industrial mass production, excellent effect and capability of making up the defects of the prior art is urgently needed in the field.

Disclosure of Invention

The technical problem to be solved by the invention is to provide a skin repair polypeptide composition which has the advantages of good stability, high safety, easy transdermal absorption, low cost, simple preparation process, suitability for industrial mass production and excellent effect.

Through experimental research, the inventor finds that polypeptide components are dispersed in an oil phase to form a water-in-oil system, a small amount of water phase in the system can reduce the contact of the polypeptide and water, so that the polypeptide is concentrated in the water phase, the stability of the polypeptide is improved, and the polypeptide with larger local concentration is favorable for exerting better skin repair effect; the external oil phase can enable the polypeptide components to better penetrate through skin barriers and promote absorption, thereby endowing the product with more excellent skin repair effect, and forming the invention.

The invention provides a water-in-oil system skin repair polypeptide composition, which comprises a polypeptide with collagen production promoting effect, and is selected from one or more of the following polypeptides, including but not limited to: the polypeptide with collagen production promoting effect exists in an aqueous phase, the mass percentage concentration of each polypeptide is 0.0001-5%, and the aqueous phase and an oil phase form a water-in-oil system.

The polypeptide composition further comprises a polypeptide having laminin production promoting effect, selected from one or more of the following polypeptides, including but not limited to: hexapeptide-8, hexapeptide-9, hexapeptide-10, palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminobutyrylhydroxythreonine and palmitoyl dipeptide-6-diaminohydroxybutyric acid, wherein the mass percentage concentration of each polypeptide is 0.0001-5%.

The polypeptide composition may also comprise polypeptides having elastin production promoting effects, including but not limited to: palmitoyl hexapeptide-12, wherein the mass percentage concentration of the polypeptide is 0.0001-5%.

The polypeptide composition may further comprise a polypeptide having a complement to proteoglycan deletion selected from one or more of the following polypeptides, including but not limited to: acetyl tetrapeptide-9, acetyl tetrapeptide-11 and tripeptide-10citrulline, wherein the mass percentage concentration of each polypeptide is 0.0001-5%.

The oil phase comprises a surfactant and an oily emollient.

The surfactant is one or a combination of more of PEG-20 triisostearin, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides, polyglycerol-2 isostearate and polyglycerol-4 laurate, and the mass percentage concentration of each component is 1-10%.

The oily emollient is one or a combination of hydrogenated polyisobutene, caprylic/capric triglyceride and isononyl isononanoate, and the mass percentage concentration of the oily emollient is 70-90%.

The oily emollient may also comprise vegetable oil, which is camellia seed oil, jojoba seed oil, nut oil, sunflower seed oil.

The water-in-oil system skin repair polypeptide composition is mainly used for preparing skin care products or medical products for external application of skin.

To facilitate an understanding of the present invention, the principle of the present invention, the mechanism of action of the skin repair polypeptides at different targets of action, is illustrated as follows:

1. principle of the invention

Analysis of skin structure reveals that collagen is the major protein component in the skin, accounting for approximately 70% of skin protein content. The collagen can be further crosslinked to form collagen fibers, so that the skin connection strength and stability are increased, and the skin is supported. With aging, the collagen content in the skin gradually decreases, resulting in loss of elasticity of the skin, appearance of wrinkles, skin sagging, dryness, and the like. Laminins are proteins in the extracellular matrix (ECM) that are present in the greatest amount, other than collagen, and are an integral part of the skin, and bind to various basement membrane components to regulate cell growth and differentiation. Elastin is the main component of elastic fibers and is responsible for maintaining and supporting the elasticity of the skin, imparting elasticity and flexibility to the skin. With age, elastin in the skin gradually runs off and the skin becomes flaccid. Proteoglycans are also important components of the extracellular matrix (ECM) and maintain skin integrity, making the skin soft and elastic.

Based on the characteristics of the skin structural components, the skin repair polypeptide composition comprises a polypeptide with the function of promoting collagen production, and on the basis, a polypeptide with the function of promoting laminin production is added, and the skin repair polypeptide composition also can comprise a polypeptide with the function of promoting elastin production, and can further comprise a polypeptide with the function of compensating proteoglycan deficiency.

2. Mechanism of action of skin repair polypeptides

2.1 mechanism of action of polypeptide having collagen production promoting action

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Pal-GHK, CAS number: 147732-56-7) is modified by palmitic acid at the N-terminal of a peptide chain of GHK, has better transdermal performance, can promote skin to synthesize a large amount of collagen and polysaccharide, can tighten skin, lock water and moisturize skin, fade wrinkles and deeply repair skin.

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, CAS number: 221227-05-0) helps promote collagen production and repair the thickened epidermal layer. In addition, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 may regulate the secretion of interleukin-6 (IL-6). IL-6 participates in chronic inflammatory reaction of skin, the increase of IL-6 can accelerate skin aging, and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 can reduce the level of IL-6 in the skin aging process, so that the balance of cell factors in the skin is maintained again, the skin inflammation is obviously eliminated, and glycosylation damage is reduced, thereby achieving the purposes of delaying skin aging, and increasing the skin elasticity and firmness.

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 (Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4) can stimulate the proliferation of fibroblasts and stimulate the synthesis of collagen, glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) and hyaluronic acid, thereby increasing the thickness of the skin and achieving the aim of repairing the skin.

Tripeptide-1 (GHK), an endogenous growth factor, acts as a transporter for copper ions, stimulating collagen synthesis, angiogenesis and fibroblast growth. The GHK with proper dosage has anti-inflammatory and repairing effects on skin. In addition, Marc Heidl et al found that tripeptide-1 could promote the synthesis of skin hyaluronic acid. Therefore, the tripeptide-1 can be used for repairing skin, replenishing water, moisturizing and improving skin quality.

Tetrapeptide-21 (GEKG) can promote the production of collagen in extracellular matrix (ECM), and induce the expression of collagen gene to increase, thereby thickening skin and improving the roughness of skin.

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-6 (Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-6) is a peptide developed by taking genetic immune peptide as a template, and can effectively stimulate proliferation and linkage of fibroblasts and promote synthesis of collagen, so that dermis is repaired and skin quality is improved.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5) stimulates fibroblast division and proliferation, strongly promotes the generation of collagen, supplements extracellular matrix proteins, strengthens connective tissues, inhibits the activity of matrix metalloproteinase, prevents collagen from decomposing, thereby making skin elastic and deeply repairing skin barrier by activating transforming growth factor- β (TGF- β).

Myristoyl Pentapeptide-11 (Myristoyl Pentapeptide-11) can help to restore skin elasticity again, repair damaged skin and stimulate collagen synthesis, so that the water storage capacity of the skin is increased, and the effects of moisturizing are achieved. The action mechanism is similar to that of Myristoyl Hexapeptide-4 (Myristoyl Hexapeptide-4) and Myristoyl octapeptide-1 (Myristoyl octapeptide-1).

Hexapeptide-3 (Hexapeptide-3) is a small molecule peptide similar to the 6-amino acid fragment sequence in the III-type unit of fibronectin molecule, promotes the expression of β 1 integrin, the adhesion of collagen, and the adhesion of cells and extracellular matrix (ECM), thereby promoting the remodeling of tissues and the repair of skin.

Tripeptide-1 Copper (Copper Peptide) can promote the generation of collagen, elastin, proteoglycan and glycosaminoglycan (GAGs) in large quantity, increase the elasticity of skin, tighten skin and smooth wrinkles; resisting oxidation, scavenging free radicals, and delaying skin aging; promoting epidermal cell proliferation, and repairing skin barrier.

2.2 mechanism of action of the polypeptide having the action of promoting laminin production

Hexapeptide-8 (Hexapeptide-8), firms the skin by stimulating the production of laminin-V and type iv, vii collagen. Also similar in mechanism of action are Hexapeptide-10 (Hexapeptide-10), Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 diaminobutyrylhydroxythreonine (palmityl Dipeptide-5 diaminobutyryl hydroxytrythronine) and Palmitoyl Dipeptide-6 diaminohydroxybutyric acid (palmityl Dipeptide-6 diaminohydroxybutyric acid).

Hexapeptide-9 (Hexapeptide-9) can increase the number of laminin-V and holomucin, increase the synthesis of collagen in the dermis, promote the regeneration and reinforcement of the structural tissue in the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) region, promote the differentiation of keratinocytes and the synthesis of keratin, thereby repairing wounds, recombining the complete epidermis, promoting the regeneration of the skin, enabling the skin to have more elasticity and reducing wrinkles.

2.3 mechanism of action of polypeptide having elastin-promoting action

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 (Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, CAS number: 171263-26-6), a Spring fragment derived from elastin, can promote fibroblast proliferation and elastin synthesis, and improve skin elasticity. In addition, it can induce fibroblasts and monocytes to specific sites, promoting wound repair and tissue renewal.

2.4 the mechanism of action of the polypeptide which complements the proteoglycan deficiency

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9 (Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9) can promote synthesis of photoprotein glycan. Photoproteoglycans, a member of the family of small-molecule proteoglycans, are important components of the extracellular matrix (ECM), and can regulate collagen fibers to efficiently link them, thereby forming functionalized collagen fibers and maintaining skin thickness and firmness. Acetyl tetrapeptide-9 also promotes the synthesis of type I collagen, and deeply repairs the skin barrier by stimulating the synthesis of both proteoglycan and type I collagen.

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11 (Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11), which stimulates the growth of keratinocytes, which further synthesize syndecan-1. syndecan-1 is a proteoglycan, and can strengthen the cohesion between epidermal cells. Acetyl tetrapeptide-11 also promotes collagen production from type XVII. Type XVII collagen is the major protein of hemidesmosome and plays an important role in the junction of epidermis and the epidermal-dermal junction. Acetyl tetrapeptide-11 remodels and reinforces the skin structure by stimulating the synthesis of collagen type syndecan-1 and XVII simultaneously.

Tripeptide-10Citrulline (CAS number: 960531-53-7) can compensate for the loss of function of core protein polysaccharide caused by aging, can be combined with collagen fibril to regulate the formation of collagen fibril, enhance the stability of the collagen fibril, ensure the uniform diameter and space structure of the fibril, maintain the integrity of the skin and make the skin soft and elastic.

The polypeptide composition for repairing the skin in the water-in-oil system is obtained by combining the characteristics of the structural components of the skin, utilizing different action targets of the polypeptide on the skin and dispersing the polypeptide in the oil phase system. Compared with the prior art, the invention has the advantages that:

(1) the polypeptide is dissolved in a small amount of water phase and dispersed in the oil phase to form a water-in-oil system, so that the stability and the use safety of the polypeptide are improved.

(2) The polypeptide is concentrated in the water phase, so that the concentration of local active ingredients is increased, and the skin repairing effect is better.

(3) The oil phase in the system can promote the transdermal absorption of the water-soluble polypeptide, and the same dosage can achieve better skin repair effect.

(4) The invention can achieve better skin repairing effect with lower cost, has simple preparation process and is suitable for industrial mass production.

Drawings

FIG. 1 microscopic image (40X 10 times) of water-in-oil system of polypeptide composition

FIG. 2 in vitro cumulative transdermal and cumulative skin Retention of the polypeptide (24h)

Detailed Description

For a better understanding of the present invention, the following detailed description is given in conjunction with the following examples and drawings, but is not limited to the following examples.