阅读说明：本技术 包含普鲁兰多糖衍生物的化妆品组合物 (Cosmetic composition comprising pullulan derivative ) 是由 约恩·比熊 卡罗琳·库索罗斯 于 2018-12-13 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明涉及一种组合物,所述组合物包含：(i)三烷基甲硅烷氧基甲硅烷基氨基甲酰基普鲁兰多糖化合物,(ii)聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯聚合物,(iii)消光物质,以及(iv)至少一种挥发性烃油。本发明还涉及此类组合物用于化妆和/或护理角蛋白物质、皮肤和嘴唇的用途,并且更特别地,在染毛膏、粉底和唇膏中的用途。(The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (i) a trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoylpulfenyl pullulan polysaccharide compound, (ii) a polymethylmethacrylate polymer, (iii) a matting material, and (iv) at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil. The invention also relates to the use of such compositions for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, the skin and the lips, and more particularly in hair-dyeing creams, foundations and lipsticks.)

1. A cosmetic composition characterized in that it comprises:

(i) trialkylsiloxy silylcarbamoyl pullulan polysaccharide compound,

(ii) a silicone polymer, a silicone oil,

(iii) matting filler, and

(iv) at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the trialkylsiloxy silylcarbamoyl pullulan compound is wherein the alkyl group is C₁-C₆Trialkylsiloxy silylcarbamoyl pullulan polysaccharide of alkyl group.

3. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the trialkylsiloxy silylcarbamoyl pullulan polysaccharide compound is a trimethylsiloxysilyl silylcarbamoyl pullulan polysaccharide compound.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the silicone polymer (ii) is a non-gelled crosslinked silicone polymer or a gelled crosslinked silicone polymer, in particular in the form of gelled particles or non-gelled particles, the particles having an average size of from 10 microns to 200 microns.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the silicone polymer (ii) is obtained by reacting an organopolysiloxane containing in particular at a terminal position at least one-Si-H group with an organopolysiloxane containing at least one, preferably at least two, ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to the silicon atom, in particular chosen from vinyl, allyl or propenyl groups, which may be located at the terminals of the organopolysiloxane molecule.

6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the silicone polymer (ii) is a silicone elastomer exhibiting viscoelastic properties, in particular selected from the group consisting of Polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) (or dimethicones), Methylpolysiloxanes (MQ), Vinylmethylpolysiloxanes (VMQ), Phenylvinylmethylpolysiloxanes (PVMQ), Fluorovinylmethylpolysiloxanes (FVMQ) and mixtures thereof, the silicone elastomer being capable of being provided in the form of a gel, paste or powder.

7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the silicone polymer (ii) is polysiloxane-11, in particular polysiloxane-11 gelled with isododecane.

8. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the matting filler (iii) consists of a solid filler in powder or powder form; the matting filler is composed in particular of non-spherical or spherical particles having a regular or irregular profile, or lamellar particles having a volume median diameter D of less than or equal to 25 μm, in particular less than or equal to 15 μm, in particular less than or equal to 10 μm₅₀。

9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the matting filler (iii) consists of a solid filler in powder or powdered form selected from the group consisting of:

-cellulose powder, cellulose beads;

-microcrystalline cellulose powder;

-silica and silicate powders, amorphous silica microspheres, silica microbeads;

-silica/TiO₂Compounding powder;

-talc/TiO₂(ii) an alumina/silica composite powder;

-Polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) powder;

-boron nitride powder;

-a cross-linked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated or not coated with a silicone resin;

-hydrophobic silica aerogel powder;

-nylon powder;

-a starch powder;

-powders of plant origin, such as rice, cotton or silk powders;

-talc, natural and synthetic mica, sericite, borosilicate;

and mixtures thereof.

10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the matting filler (iii) is one or more Polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) powders, one or more micas or mixtures thereof.

11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoylpulypro pullulan compound (i) comprises from 0.5% to 30% by weight of the total weight of the composition; according to an alternative, the trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoylpulfenpulullan polysaccharide compound (i) represents from 1% to 15% by weight of the total weight of the composition; according to another alternative, the trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoylpulfenpulullan polysaccharide compound (i) represents from 1% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the silicone polymer (ii) represents from 0.1% to 30% by weight of the total weight of the composition; according to an alternative, the silicone polymer (ii) represents from 0.5% to 15% by weight of the total weight of the composition; and according to another alternative, the silicone polymer (ii) represents from 1% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

13. The composition according to one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the matting filler (iii) represents from 0.5% to 30% by weight of the total weight of the composition; according to an alternative, the matting filler (iii) represents from 1% to 15% by weight of the total weight of the composition; and according to another alternative, the matting filler (iii) represents from 1% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

14. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, wherein the volatile hydrocarbon oil (iv) represents from 10% to 70% by weight of the total weight of the composition; according to an alternative way, the volatile hydrocarbon oil (iv) represents from 15% to 65% by weight of the total weight of the composition; and according to another alternative, the volatile hydrocarbon oil (iv) represents from 20% to 60% by weight of the total weight of the composition; or the volatile hydrocarbon oil (iv) makes up the balance of 100 wt% of the total weight of the composition.

15. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, wherein the volatile hydrocarbon oil (iv) can be a mixture with a volatile silicone oil; in particular, the volatile hydrocarbon oil (iv) is selected from: branched alkanes having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, for example isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins) having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, such as isododecane, isodecane or isohexadecane; branched esters having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, such as isohexyl pivalate; and mixtures thereof;

in particular, the volatile silicone oil is selected from: volatile linear silicone oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane; or volatile cyclic silicone oils such as cyclopentasiloxane, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.

16. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, characterized in that the volatile hydrocarbon oil (iv) is chosen from isododecane, isohexadecane and mixtures thereof with volatile silicone oils, such as cyclopentasiloxane.

17. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, characterized in that it further comprises a non-silicone film-forming polymer, chosen in particular from the following polymers:

copolymers of Vinylpyrrolidone (VP), preferably VP and C₂-C₂₀Copolymers of olefins, for example VP/eicosene, VP/vinyl acetate, VP/methyl ethacrylate/methacrylic acid, VP/hexadecene, VP/triacontene, VP/styrene or VP/acrylic acid/lauryl alcohol methacrylate copolymers or butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone;

-vinyl ester copolymers, preferably the following copolymers: vinyl acetate/allyl stearate, vinyl acetate/vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate/vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate/octadecene, vinyl acetate/octadecyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate/allyl laurate, vinyl propionate/vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate/1-octadecene, vinyl acetate/1-dodecene, vinyl stearate/vinyl ethyl ether, vinyl propionate/cetyl vinyl ether, vinyl stearate/allyl acetate, vinyl 2, 2-dimethyloctanoate/vinyl laurate, allyl 2, 2-dimethylpentanoate/vinyl laurate, vinyl dimethylpropionate/vinyl stearate, or allyl dimethylpropionate/vinyl stearate;

hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyolefins or poly (alpha-olefins), preferably C₂-C₂₀Polymers or copolymers of olefins, such as polybutene, polyisobutene or polydecene;

alkylcelluloses, preferably with C₂-C₆Alkylcelluloses of alkyl groups, such as ethylcellulose and propylcellulose;

-polyvinyl alcohol; and

-a mixture of these, and (C) a,

in particular, the non-silicone film-forming polymer represents from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more particularly from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

18. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17, characterized in that it further comprises a colouring substance, in particular chosen from pigments and pearlizing agents, which may represent from 5% to 20% by weight and, according to the alternative, from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

19. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 18, characterized in that it further comprises from 0% to 5% by weight, or alternatively up to 2% by weight, of a wax, in particular chosen from the following waxes:

"non-polar" waxes, such as microcrystalline, paraffin, ceresin, polyethylene, silicone and fluorinated waxes;

"polar" waxes, for example beeswax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, japan wax, berry wax, sumac wax, montan wax, thatch wax, lignocellulosic wax, sugar cane wax, tangerine wax, lemon wax, laurel wax, by having a straight or branched chain C₈-C₃₂Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils of fatty chains, such as jojoba oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, coconut oil, lanolin oil, olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol or castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol; and

mixtures thereof.

20. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 19, characterized in that it further comprises a gelling compound, in particular chosen from: natural or synthetic clays; modified natural mica such as aluminum fluorosilicate, magnesium fluorosilicate, and potassium fluorosilicate; esters of dextrins and fatty acids, such as dextrin palmitate or dextrin myristate; mono-or polyglycerols C₈-C₃₀Fatty acid triesters, e.g. triglyceride (hydroxy)Stearyl esters);

according to an alternative, the gelling compound is selected from: natural or synthetic clays selected from bentonites, in particular hectorite and montmorillonite; beidellite, saponite, nontronite, sepiolite, biotite, attapulgite, vermiculite and zeolite; in particular hectorite modified with an alkyl quaternary ammonium chloride salt, said ammonium being modified by at least one, preferably at least two, C₁₄-C₂₀Alkyl groups substituted, such as distearyldimethylamine hectorite, wherein the ammonium contains two methyl groups and two stearyl groups.

21. The composition according to claim 20, characterized in that said gelling compound represents from 0.05% to 10% by weight of the total weight of said composition, according to an alternative from 0.1% to 5% by weight of the total weight of said composition.

22. A film, in particular having a thickness of 150 μ ι η to 800 μ ι η, consisting of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 21.

23. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 21 for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the eyelashes or the eyebrows, or the skin and/or the lips.

24. A hair dye, foundation or lipstick comprising the composition of any of claims 1 to 21 or the film of claim 22.

25. Process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, characterized in that it comprises a step of applying a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 21 to keratin materials, in particular the eyelashes, the eyebrows or the skin.

26. A cosmetic kit, characterized in that it comprises a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 21 packaged in a reservoir, in particular a bottle, a tray or a can; also included are means for removing the composition and applying it to the keratin fibers, the skin, and/or the lips.

Technical Field

The present invention relates to novel cosmetic compositions and to the use thereof in the care or make-up field. The invention relates more particularly to a novel composition comprising a mixture of a trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoylpulfenpulullan-based ingredient, an ingredient based on at least one silicone polymer, a matting filler and at least one volatile oil.

The invention also relates to a composition and a method for making up and/or caring for keratin materials or the skin, comprising a step of applying a composition according to the invention to form a film. A hair dye paste comprising the composition according to the invention is also subject of the invention. Finally, cosmetic kits comprising such compositions are also within the present invention.

Background

Cosmetic compositions for making up and/or caring for the skin or keratinous substances (for example the eyelashes or the eyebrows) must meet complex specifications comprising a plurality of criteria. For example, mention may be made of the stability and maintenance of the product over time; comfort during and after application of the product over time. These criteria are difficult to satisfy simultaneously: for example, increasing the retention of the cosmetic product often results in a reduction in the comfort perceived by the user, which is associated with a dry, sticky feel or heaviness of the deposit on the keratin materials, the skin or the lips. For example, waxes may be used to thicken the film and impart a more viscous texture to the composition during its application. The disadvantage of waxes is that they just make the film relatively rigid and tacky, giving an unpleasant feel during application and during the day.

The object of the present invention is to maintain the hold (attachment) of the makeup and/or care product over a long period of time (i.e. at least 24 hours, advantageously 36 hours), while retaining its comfort when applied and its flexibility.

The use of pullulan as a non-tacky film former in the cosmetic field is known from the application US 2003/0082221. Pullulan is a natural polysaccharide, a polymer consisting of maltotriose units (glucosyltriiosides), also known as α -1, 4-; alpha-1, 6-glucan. Pullulan is produced from starch by the fungus Aureobasidium pullulans.

Pullulan silicone derivatives of the type of trialkylsiloxy silylcarbamoyl pullulan are commonly used in cosmetic products. Application KR2015100201 describes very mild water-in-oil emulsions, for example based on a urethane polymer, one or more entities selected from silicone resins, trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoylpullulan polysaccharides and silicone-acrylic copolymers, and a silicone gum or silicone polymer.

Application WO2014181747 ═ US2016/113860 also describes cosmetic compositions based on trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoylpullulan, which are easy to apply and show good hold without stickiness effect, and also have good retention effect. This document is irrelevant, in particular because it uses a volatile silicone oil consisting of decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, whereas the invention described below uses mainly or exclusively a volatile hydrocarbon oil.

Likewise, the abbreviation document XP00277, which refers to a commercial product known as "Liquid concealer aura Veil", is also irrelevant, in particular because it uses a volatile silicone oil consisting of cyclomethicone and cyclopentasiloxane, whereas the invention described below uses mainly or exclusively a volatile hydrocarbon oil.

Furthermore, document JP 2005/325088 (shiseiko) uses a volatile silicone oil consisting of decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, whereas the invention described below uses mainly or exclusively a volatile hydrocarbon oil.

Unlike the present invention, document JP 2004/244333 does not contain silicone polymers, except in combination with volatile hydrocarbon oils.

Furthermore, document FR 2910285 (L' Or al) relates to a cosmetic set comprising a catalyst and a peroxide, and a compound X and a compound Y capable of reacting together in the presence of the catalyst, and which is formulated according to 2 different compositions, completely independent of the invention.

Furthermore, the applicant has described in application FR 1661398 filed on 2016, 11, 23, a combination of a pullulan silicone derivative with a specific acrylate copolymer and a specific polysilsesquioxane resin, for obtaining a composition exhibiting a significantly improved retention or adhesion over time.

It is an object of the present invention to provide novel cosmetic compositions for making up and/or caring for the skin, the lips or keratin materials, which form a film that combines long-lasting maintenance (in particular over 24 hours) and comfort on application during the application thereof. Unexpectedly, the inventors have found that the combination of a trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoylpullulan polysaccharide compound with a silicone polymer and a matting filler in the presence of at least one volatile oil produces a synergistic effect on the cosmetic composition obtained, which leaves on the skin, the lips or the keratinous substances a film: its flexible and light texture produces a non-greasy, non-tacky, soft feel without unrealistic effects, while exhibiting significantly improved adhesion (retention) over prior art compositions, and thus excellent resistance to water, sebum, perspiration and rubbing action. By this combination of ingredients, the inventors have unexpectedly demonstrated that it is possible to reduce the amount of wax completely to a maximum of 5% by weight of the composition and more advantageously to exclude it from the composition, thus limiting the drawbacks of waxes known to the person skilled in the art, in particular the feeling of heaviness and discomfort during and after application of the composition. Thus, compositions with a low content of wax, preferably no wax, can be obtained with particularly pronounced retention and comfort.

In addition to these improved properties, the compositions of the invention produce a "mattifying" cosmetic effect, which is particularly advantageous for application to keratin fibres, in particular the eyelashes or the eyebrows.

Disclosure of Invention

Definition of

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "keratin materials" is directed to human keratin fibres, such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows or the hair; and artificial keratin fibers such as false eyelashes. Cosmetic compositions intended to be applied to these keratin fibres are also known as "mascaras".

In this patent application, the expressions "… to …" and "between … and …" are intended to include the upper and lower limits of the range of values. The disclosure of a range of values excluding the limits thereof is equivalent to the disclosure of a range of equivalent values including the limits and vice versa.

The term "film-forming polymer" is understood to mean a polymer capable of forming a continuous film on a support. Herein, the word "polymer" may mean a homopolymer or a copolymer. The term "copolymer" is understood to mean a polymer comprising at least two different monomers or two different blocks (which may be of the same chemical family but have different structures).

The term "silicone polymer" or "crosslinked silicone polymer" refers in this specification to the same family of ingredients.

Within the meaning of the present invention, "oil" can be defined as a compound insoluble in water (solubility less than 0.05mg/L at 20 ℃) and liquid at ambient temperature (25 ℃) and having a melting point, a softening point and a glass transition point of less than or equal to 30 ℃, preferably less than or equal to 25 ℃ at atmospheric pressure.

In the context of the present invention, volatility can be defined, for example, by the vapor pressure at 25 ℃ which can be measured empirically, the value of which will be from 0.13Pa to 40000Pa, for example from 1Pa to 20000Pa, from 10Pa to 8000Pa, or even from 15Pa to 150 Pa. The vapor pressure will be measured according to one of the methods most suitable for the compound of interest, which appears in the guideline of Test No.104 of OECD (2006 edition). Alternatively, a volatile oil may be chosen that exhibits a boiling point at atmospheric pressure of less than 250 ℃ (according to an alternative less than 230 ℃, and according to another alternative between 150 ℃ and 220 ℃). Volatile oils can also be defined as compounds having a flash point of from 35 ℃ to 100 ℃, in particular from 40 ℃ to 80 ℃.

Isododecane is considered in the present patent application as a volatile oil having a boiling point at 105Pa of 175 ℃ to 195 ℃, a flash point of 45 ℃, and a vapor pressure at 20 ℃ equal to 100 Pa. Having a solubility in water of less than or equal to 1.0X 10 at 20 DEG C^-2mg/L。

Cyclopentyldimethylsiloxane is considered to be another volatile oil having a viscosity equal to 1.7X 10 in water at 25 ℃^{- 2}Solubility in mg/L, flash point of 77 ℃, boiling point equal to 205 ℃ at 105Pa, and vapor pressure equal to 26Pa at 25 ℃.

Aspects of the invention

According to a first aspect, a subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising:

(i) trialkylsiloxy silylcarbamoyl pullulan polysaccharide compound,

(ii) a silicone polymer, a silicone oil,

(iii) matting filler, and

(iv) at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil.

The trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoylpulfenpulullan polysaccharide compound (i) may comprise from 0.5% to 30% by weight of the total composition, according to an alternative from 1% to 15% by weight of the total composition, and according to another alternative from 1% to 5% by weight of the total composition.

The silicone polymer (ii) may represent from 0.1% to 30% by weight of the composition, according to an alternative from 0.5% to 15% by weight of the total weight of the composition, and according to another alternative from 1% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

The matting filler (iii) may constitute from 0.5% to 30% by weight of the composition, according to an alternative from 0.5% to 15% by weight of the composition, and according to another alternative from 2% to 10% by weight of the composition, and

the volatile hydrocarbon oil (iv) may represent from 10% to 70% by weight of the composition, from 15% to 65% by weight of the total weight of the composition according to an alternative, and from 20% to 60% by weight of the total weight of the composition according to another alternative.

According to an alternative of the invention, the volatile hydrocarbon oil represents the balance to 100% by weight of the composition comprising components (i) to (iv).

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition comprises, as percentages by weight of the composition:

(i) 0.5-30 wt% of trialkylsiloxy silyl carbamoyl pullulan polysaccharide compound,

(ii)0.1 wt% to 30 wt% of a silicone polymer,

(iii)0.5 to 30 wt.% of a matting filler, and

(iv) at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil.

In another embodiment of the present invention, the weight ratio of component (i), component (ii) and component (iii) is in the range of 1/1/1 to 1/5/10, more particularly in the range of 1/1/3 to 1/2/4. According to a further embodiment, it is about 1/2/2.

According to these embodiments of the invention, the composition, once applied to the skin, the lips or the keratinous fibres (in particular the eyelashes and the eyebrows), exhibits the advantage of forming a high-retention film which produces a totally surprising matte effect and a remarkable comfort sensation.

Trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoylpullulan polysaccharide (i)

Trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoylpulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypulypul.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoylpulfenpulan polysaccharide compound comprises an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms. These alkyl groups may be straight chain or branched alkyl groups. According to another embodiment, the trialkylsiloxy silylcarbamoyl pullulan polysaccharide of the present invention is a trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan polysaccharide.

Thus, according to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises, in percentages by weight of the composition:

(i) 1-15% of trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan polysaccharide,

(ii) 0.5% -15% of a silicone polymer,

(iii) 1% to 15% of a matting filler, and

(iv) from 10% to 70% of at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, which may in particular constitute the balance of the mixture of compounds (i) to (iv).

Silicone Polymer (ii)

In the composition of the invention, according to a particular alternative embodiment, the silicone polymer (iii) is a non-gelled or gelled cross-linked silicone polymer.

The cross-linked silicone polymer may be dispersed or gelled by an oil. The cross-linked silicone polymer is preferably in the form of gelled particles or dispersed particles, the particles having an average size of from 10 microns to 200 microns. Crosslinked silicone polymers may be referred to as elastomers by those skilled in the art.

In the present description, the expressions "gelled or dispersed crosslinked silicone polymer" and "gelled or dispersed crosslinked silicone polymer particles" are used without distinction. It is understood that "gelled" means "gelled" by oil. The expression "crosslinked silicone polymer" may denote a crosslinked silicone polymer gelled or dispersed in an oil.

The crosslinked silicone polymer is obtainable by reacting an organopolysiloxane comprising at least one-Si-H group, in particular in a terminal position, with an organopolysiloxane comprising at least one, preferably at least two, ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon atoms. The ethylenically unsaturated group may be selected from vinyl, allyl or propenyl; in particular at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecules.

The cross-linked silicone polymer can be obtained by hydrosilylation reaction of the two organopolysiloxanes described above in the presence of a catalyst and an oil under reaction conditions known to those skilled in the art. The catalyst may be hexachloroplatinic acid or a platinum complex.

Alternatively, the following crosslinked silicone polymers may be used: a crosslinked silicone polymer obtained by a dehydrocrosslinking condensation reaction between the two organopolysiloxanes in the presence of a catalyst and an oil.

The oil used to prepare the cross-linked silicone polymer may be a non-volatile oil or the same volatile oil as described below in relation to the composition of the product of the invention. Mention will be made, as examples, of isododecane or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

According to an alternative embodiment, at least one of the aforementioned organopolysiloxanes comprises predominantly dimethylsiloxane units, the other units being methylphenylsiloxane or dimethylvinylsiloxy units for the vinyl organosiloxane and methylhydrosiloxane units for the-Si-H group-containing organopolysiloxane.

The organopolysiloxane comprising at least one ethylenically unsaturated group bonded to a silicon atom may be selected from copolymers, the fraction of units of which copolymer comprises vinyl groups or for which at least one vinyl group is located at a terminal position of the chain.

The organopolysiloxane comprising at least one vinyl group may be selected from the group consisting of methylvinylsiloxane/dimethylsiloxane copolymer, polydimethylsiloxane comprising dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane/methylphenylsiloxane copolymer comprising dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, and dimethylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane copolymer comprising trimethylsiloxy end groups.

In particular, the-Si-H group-containing organopolysiloxane and the organopolysiloxane containing at least two terminal vinyl groups are used in such a proportion that the molar ratio of the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms to the total amount of vinyl groups is from 1.5/1 to 20/1.

the-Si-H group-containing organopolysiloxane can be a polydimethylsiloxane or a poly (dimethyl) (methylhydrogen) siloxane, one or the other of which contains at least one Si-H bond at the chain end.

The cross-linked silicone polymer is for example the reaction product of polydimethylsiloxane, one or the other of which comprises at least one terminal Si-H bond, or poly (dimethyl) (methylhydrogen) siloxane, which comprises two vinyl groups, in particular in the terminal positions of the chain.

According to an alternative of the invention, the silicone polymer is a silicone elastomer exhibiting viscoelastic properties. The silicone elastomer used in the present invention improves the feel (soft focus effect) of the composition. According to one embodiment, the silicone elastomer is selected from the group consisting of Polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) (or dimethicone), Methylpolysiloxane (MQ), Vinylmethylpolysiloxane (VMQ), Phenylvinylmethylpolysiloxane (PVMQ), Fluorovinylmethylpolysiloxane (FVMQ) and mixtures thereof. The silicone elastomers of the present invention are typically provided in the form of a gel, paste or powder.

According to a particular embodiment, the cross-linked silicone powder is in the form of a gel in the composition.

For example, a silicone polymer gel includes gelled cross-linked silicone polymer particles that trap molecules of oil, which may constitute 10 wt% to 95 wt% of the gel weight. The proportion of oil present in the gel may vary from 60 wt% to 95 wt%, for example from 80 wt% to 90 wt%. Such cross-linked silicone polymer gels can be made by applying high shear to cross-linked silicone polymer particles pre-synthesized from the two organopolysiloxanes described above, the shear being performed in the presence of oil. Shearing may be carried out in a high pressure homogenizer, thereby obtaining polymer particles gelled by the oil; their size may vary between 10 microns and 200 microns. The cross-linked silicone polymer gel in oil or the cross-linked silicone polymer particles gelled by oil will be mentioned without distinction.

The gelling agent for the cross-linked silicone polymer particles may be a non-volatile oil or preferably a volatile oil chosen from one of the volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils or mixtures thereof, which according to the present description are mentioned above or below in the description.

One skilled in the art will be able to confirm by conventional methods whether the crosslinked silicone polymer is gelled or dispersed in the composition.

The present patent application describes crosslinked silicone polymers obtained by reacting polymethylhydrosiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy end groups or poly (dimethyl) (methylhydro) siloxane containing trimethylsiloxy end groups with polydimethylsiloxane containing two vinyl groups (e.g. two vinyl end groups), i.e. polydimethylsiloxane containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst. Some of these compounds are described in patent US 4970252.

In particular, a cross-linked silicone polymer having an INCI name corresponding to polysiloxane-11 can be used. According to a preferred alternative of the invention, a polysiloxane 11 dispersed with isododecane is used.

Matting filler (iii)

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one mattifying filler.

According to a particular embodiment, the matting filler consists of a solid filler in powder or powdered form. Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "filler" is understood to mean a mass of particles of inorganic or organic, natural or synthetic nature, provided in insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition.

As the name implies, a "matting" filler can achieve a matting effect once a film is formed after application. This matting effect is particularly important when cosmetic effects are desired which avoid shine. This is particularly true when the composition is applied to the eyelashes or eyebrows. This matting filler also makes it possible, by its effect, to soften imperfections of the skin, such as wrinkles or fine lines that develop with age, when the composition is applied to the skin.

Matting fillers may consist at least in part of particles treated at their surface with a hydrophilic or lipophilic organic agent, in order to facilitate their incorporation into one or other phase of the composition, in particular to disperse the particles homogeneously in the oil phase and more generally in the liquid phase, the viscosity of said phase may be high.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the matting filler consists of non-spherical or spherical particles, or hemispherical or lamellar particles, having a regular or irregular profile, said particles having a median size by volume (denoted D) of less than or equal to 25 μm, in particular less than or equal to 15 μm, especially less than or equal to 10 μm₅₀)。

The term "median size by volume" refers to the size given by the statistical particle size distribution at half of the population measured with a Malvern Mastersizer laser particle sizer, referred to as D₅₀。

According to various alternative embodiments, the matting filler (iii) consists of a solid filler in powdered (or powdered) form selected from the group consisting of:

-cellulose powder, cellulose beads;

-microcrystalline cellulose powder;

-silica and silicate powders, amorphous silica microspheres, silica microbeads;

-silica/TiO₂Compounding powder;

-talc/TiO₂(ii) an alumina/silica composite powder;

-Polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) powder;

-boron nitride powder;

-a cross-linked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated or enrobed with a silicone resin;

-hydrophobic silica aerogel powder;

-nylon powder;

-a starch powder;

-powders of plant origin, such as rice, cotton or silk powders;

-talc, natural and synthetic mica, sericite, borosilicate and mixtures thereof;

and mixtures thereof.

According to various embodiments, as all or part of the matting filler, it is possible to use:

cellulose powders having an irregular profile, such as those sold under the name Cellulobeads USF by Daito Kasei;

crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resins (in particular silsesquioxane resins), such as the powders sold under the name MW-SRP-100 by Miyoshi Kasei with the INCI name "vinyldimethicone/polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane crosspolymer PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, polyquaternium-7 and methylsilanol tri-PEG-8 glyceryl cocoate";

PMMA powder, for example a powder from Sunjin with the name Sunpmma-X with the INCI name "methyl methacrylate crosspolymer" or Makibeads 150 from Daito Kasei;

-hydrophobic Silica aerogel particles sold by Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning VM-2270 aerogel fine particles with INCI name Silica silylates (Silica silicas);

mica, for example the mica sold under the name Submica M by Sensient;

and mixtures thereof.

According to another embodiment, more than one Polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) powder, more than one mica or mixtures thereof will be used as matting filler.

Volatile oil (iv)

The composition of the invention comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil (iv).

At ambient temperature (25 ℃) and atmospheric pressure (750mmHg, i.e. 105Pa), the volatile oil is able to evaporate in less than 1 hour after contact with the skin. The presence of at least one volatile oil in the composition of the invention is necessary since the film can be gradually formed in situ by the rapid evaporation of the volatile oil when the composition is applied to a support (for example the skin or a keratinous material).

The film may then produce a desired visual or care effect. The materials formed from the compositions also exhibit a pliable texture that provides significant comfort and hold over 24 hours.

According to an alternative embodiment, the volatile hydrocarbon oil (iv) of the invention can be mixed with a silicone oil. The oil may be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" is understood to mean a compound comprising at least one silicon atom, in particular at least one Si — O group.

The term "hydrocarbon oil" is understood to mean an oil comprising mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

The oil may optionally contain oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid groups.

Among the volatile hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made in particular of branched alkanes having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, such as isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins) having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, such as isododecane, isodecane or isohexadecane; branched esters having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, such as isohexyl pivalate; and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the volatile hydrocarbon oil comprises or consists of isododecane. Mention may also be made of linear alkanes having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms, more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms.

As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of linear silicone oils, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane. As volatile cyclic silicone oils, mention may be made of cyclopentasiloxane, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.

According to an embodiment of the invention, the volatile hydrocarbon oil (iv) is chosen from isododecane, isohexadecane and mixtures thereof with volatile silicone oils (e.g. cyclopentasiloxane).

According to a particular alternative embodiment, the volatile oil (iv) comprises or consists of isododecane.

According to another embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition comprises, in weight percent of the composition:

(i) 0.5-30 wt% of trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoylpullulan polysaccharide compound,

(ii)0.1 to 30% by weight of polysiloxane-11,

(iii)0.5 to 30 wt.% of a matting filler consisting of mica and/or polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA), and

(iv) isododecane, in particular at least 10% to 70% by weight of isododecane, may in particular constitute the balance of the mixture of compounds (i) to (iv).

Adjuvant for compositions

In addition to the compounds (i), (ii), (iii) and (iv) described above, the composition may also comprise one or more adjuvants or other ingredients which make it possible to improve the composition in terms of criteria such as chemical or microbiological stability, visual or olfactory aspects or rheological behaviour, or to confer cosmetic activity (such as moisturizing and/or anti-ageing activity) on the composition, without adversely affecting the essential properties which form the basis of the invention, such as the retention, matting or comfort of the film formed by the composition after application to a support.

Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition may also comprise non-volatile hydrocarbon oils or non-volatile silicone oils, of natural or synthetic origin.

The non-volatile oil is particularly useful for dispersing the pigments used in the compositions of the present invention to produce a visual cosmetic effect.

The non-volatile oil may be present in an amount of 0.5% to 15%, particularly 0.5% to 10%, more preferably 0.5% to 5%.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises from 0% to 5% by weight of wax, according to an alternative up to 2% by weight of wax.

According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition is free of wax.

The wax may be selected, for example, from:

"nonpolar" waxes, e.g. microcrystalline, paraffin, ozokerite, polyethylene, silicone and fluorinated waxes, and

"polar" waxes, such as, for example, beeswax, rice bran wax, palm wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax (ouricurywax), japan wax, berry wax (berry wax), sumac wax (sumac wax), montan wax (montan wax), esparto wax (esparto wax), wood fibre wax (corrk fiber wax), sugar cane wax, tangerine wax, lemon wax, bay wax, by having a straight or branched chain C₈-C₃₂Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils of the fatty chain, such as jojoba oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, coconut oil, lanolin oil, olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol or castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, and

mixtures thereof.

According to an alternative form of the invention, the composition may comprise from 0% to 20% water.

According to a first embodiment of the invention, the composition is anhydrous. The anhydrous composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a film which forms particularly rapidly and whose mechanical properties are notable on application.

According to a second embodiment, the composition may comprise an aqueous phase (water-in-oil emulsion) dispersed in a continuous phase.

According to another embodiment, the composition of the invention may further comprise a non-silicone film-forming polymer. The non-silicone film-forming polymer may be of natural or synthetic origin and is chosen in particular from the following polymers:

copolymers of Vinylpyrrolidone (VP), preferably VP and C₂-C₂₀Copolymers of olefins, for example VP/eicosene, VP/vinyl acetate, VP/methyl ethacrylate/methacrylic acid, VP/hexadecene, VP/triacontene, VP/styrene or VP/acrylic acid/lauryl alcohol methacrylate copolymers or butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP),

-vinyl ester copolymers, and preferably the following copolymers: vinyl acetate/allyl stearate, vinyl acetate/vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate/vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate/octadecene, vinyl acetate/octadecyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate/allyl laurate, vinyl propionate/vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate/1-octadecene, vinyl acetate/1-dodecene, vinyl stearate/vinyl ethyl ether, vinyl propionate/hexadecyl vinyl ether, vinyl stearate/allyl acetate, vinyl 2, 2-dimethyloctanoate/vinyl laurate, allyl 2, 2-dimethylpentanoate/vinyl laurate, vinyl dimethylpropionate/vinyl stearate, or allyl dimethylpropionate/vinyl stearate,

hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyolefins, and preferably C₂-C₂₀Polymers or copolymers of olefins, for example polybutenes, polyisobutylenes or polydecenes,

-alkylcelluloses, and preferably with C₂-C₆Alkyl celluloses of the alkyl group, such as ethyl cellulose and propyl cellulose,

-polyvinyl alcohol, and

mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment, the non-silicone film-forming polymer represents from 0.5% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition, and more particularly from 1% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention may also comprise colouring substances, in particular chosen from pigments and pearlescent agents.

The pigment may be in powder or powder form and according to one alternative, exhibits an average diameter not exceeding 200 μm; and according to another alternative, the pigment exhibits an average diameter not exceeding 150 μm.

The term "pigment" is understood to mean white or coloured, inorganic or organic, and coated or uncoated particles, which are insoluble in the aqueous phase and are intended to colour and/or opacify the compositions comprising them. Among the pigments which can be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of: titanium dioxide (optionally surface-treated titanium dioxide), zirconium oxide, zinc oxide or cerium oxide, and iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, carbon black and mixtures thereof. It may also relate to pigments having a structure which may be of the type sericite/brown iron oxide/titanium dioxide/silica, for example. It may also relate to pigments having a structure which may be, for example, of the type of silica microspheres containing iron oxide. Advantageously, the pigment of the present invention is an iron oxide and/or titanium dioxide.

The pigment particles may be surface treated by evaporation of the solvent, chemical reaction or formation of covalent bonds between the surface agent and the treated particles, by deposition of the agent on the surface of the coloring substance. According to a particular alternative embodiment, the agent is a silicone or an amino acid. The pigment may be coated with a silicone layer, in particular a polymethylsiloxane layer, a layer of dimethicone (also known as Polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS)), a layer of hydrogenated dimethicone, a layer of dimethicone/polymethylsiloxane copolymer or an acrylate/dimethicone copolymer, and more particularly with a layer of dimethicone. According to another particular alternative embodiment, the pigment is chosen from iron oxides and/or titanium dioxide encapsulated in a layer of dimethicone.

According to a particular embodiment of the composition of the invention, the pigment or pearlescent agent represents from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention; and according to an alternative, the pigment or pearlescent agent is present in an amount of 5% to 15% by weight.

The composition of the invention may also comprise at least one gelling compound different from the silicone or non-silicone polymers described above. This gelling agent makes it possible to structure the fatty phase on the basis of volatile oils, said gelling agent being chosen in particular from the following: natural or synthetic clays; modified natural mica such as aluminum fluorosilicate, magnesium fluorosilicate, and potassium fluorosilicate; esters of dextrins and fatty acids, such as dextrin palmitate or dextrin myristate; mono-or polyglycerols C₈-C₃₀Fatty acid triesters such as glycerol tri (hydroxystearate) (INCI name: trihydroxystearin).

According to an alternative embodiment, the glue of the inventionThe condensed compound is selected from: natural or synthetic clays selected from bentonites, in particular hectorite and montmorillonite; beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites. In particular, the clay is selected from the group consisting of hectorite. According to a particular alternative embodiment, a hectorite modified with an alkyl quaternary ammonium chloride salt is used, the ammonium being modified by at least one, preferably at least two, C₁₄-C₂₀Alkyl groups substituted, such as distearyldimethylamine hectorite, wherein the ammonium contains two methyl groups and two stearyl groups.

The gelling compound may represent from 0.05% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition and, according to an alternative, from 0.1% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

According to another embodiment, the composition of the invention may also comprise any additive commonly used in cosmetics, such as antioxidants, preservatives, fragrances, cosmetically active agents such as emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, sunscreens, and mixtures thereof.

According to other embodiments, the composition of the invention may be in any cosmetic form conventionally used for application to keratin fibres or the skin, for example in solid, liquid or even pressurized liquid form. It can be made in particular in the form of a cream, gel or anhydrous product.

The compositions of the invention may be prepared according to conventional procedures for compositions comprising volatile oils. More particularly, the composition according to the invention is a mascara intended for making up keratin fibres, in particular the eyelashes and the eyebrows. When the composition of the invention is intended for the formulation of a hair dye paste, the process for the preparation of said composition may optionally comprise a grinding step to obtain a powder formed of fine solid particles. This grinding step may be performed in a three-roll mill (e.g., an Exakt 50i mill from Exakt Technologies).

According to another embodiment, the composition of the present invention is formulated in the form of an anhydrous hair dye cream comprising the above-described compound (i), compound (ii), compound (iii) and compound (iv).

The present invention also relates to a process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, comprising a step of applying the composition according to the invention to keratin materials (in particular the eyelashes, the eyebrows), the skin or the lips.

Another subject of the invention is directed to a film consisting of a composition according to the invention, said film having in particular a thickness of from 150 μm to 800 μm.

After drying, the film formed on the support is substantially free of volatile oil (iv).

Another subject of the invention relates to the use of the compositions according to the invention for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, the skin or the lips, in particular in non-permanent hair dyes, foundations and lipsticks.

Thus, the invention also covers non-permanent hair-dyeing creams and permanent foundations comprising the composition according to the invention. These cosmetic products combine durability, comfort and flexibility for at least 24 hours. In particular, the hair-dyeing paste exhibits a hold of at least 24 hours, indeed even up to 36 hours, and withstands day, night and shower.

The final subject of the invention relates to a cosmetic kit comprising a composition according to the invention packaged in a reservoir; and further comprising means for removing the composition and applying it to the keratin fibres, the skin and/or the lips.

The reservoir may be a bottle, tray or can.

The removal and application tools may comprise brushes (including fine brushes), sponges or porous foams.

In addition to the foregoing embodiments or alternatives, the invention also includes other embodiments or alternatives that will emerge from the remainder of the description below in connection with the preparation of the composition according to the invention, which are given by way of illustration and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention in any way. However, these examples are an integral part of the present invention.

Unless otherwise mentioned, in the description and claims, percentages are given in weight percentages, temperatures are expressed in degrees celsius or at ambient temperatures between 20 ℃ and 25 ℃, and pressures are atmospheric.

Detailed Description