阅读说明：本技术 用于调理头发的组合物 (Composition for conditioning hair ) 是由 刘辉 谢伟顺 M.德博尼 于 2017-05-31 设计创作，主要内容包括：提供了尤其用于调理头发的头发组合物,其包含：(i)至少一种式(I)的阳离子表面活性剂,<Image he="68" wi="127" file="DEST_PATH_IMAGE002.GIF" imgContent="drawing" imgFormat="GIF" orientation="portrait" inline="no"></Image>(I)其中：R<Sub>1</Sub>至R<Sub>4</Sub>相同或不同,代表包含1至30个碳原子的直链或支链脂族基团、芳族基团例如芳基或烷基芳基,基团R<Sub>1</Sub>至R<Sub>4</Sub>中的至少一个包含8至30个碳原子,以及X<Sup>-</Sup>是选自卤素离子的阴离子抗衡离子；(ii)水包油乳液,其具有小于350 nm的D<Sub>50</Sub>粒度并包含：-硅酮混合物,其包含(i)在25°C下具有40,000至小于100,000 mPa.s的粘度的三烷基甲硅烷基封端的二烷基聚硅氧烷,和(ii)在25°C下具有1,000至15,000 mPa.s的粘度并具有2至10 mg KOH/g氨基硅酮的胺值的氨基硅酮,-包含一种或更多种非离子乳化剂的乳化剂混合物,其中该乳化剂混合物具有10至16的HLB值；和-水；以及(iii)至少一种脂肪醇。(There is provided a hair composition, especially for conditioning hair, comprising: (i) at least one cationic surfactant of formula (I), (I) wherein: r 1 To R 4 Identical or different, represents a linear or branched aliphatic radical comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, an aromatic radical such as an aryl or alkylaryl radical, the radical R 1 To R 4 Contains 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and X ‑ Is an anionic counterion selected from the group consisting of halides; (ii) oil-in-water emulsion having a D of less than 350 nm 50 Particle size and comprises: -a silicone mixture comprising (i) at 2A trialkylsilyl-terminated dialkylpolysiloxane having a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mpa.s at 5 ℃, and (ii) an aminosilicone having a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mpa.s at 25 ℃ and having an amine value of 2 to 10 mg KOH/g aminosilicone, -an emulsifier mixture comprising one or more nonionic emulsifiers, wherein the emulsifier mixture has an HLB value of 10 to 16; and-water; and (iii) at least one fatty alcohol.)

1. A hair composition comprising:

(i) at least one cationic surfactant of formula (I),

wherein:

R₁to R₄Identical or different, represents a linear or branched aliphatic radical comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, an aromatic radical such as an aryl or alkylaryl group,

radical R₁To R₄At least one of which contains from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and

X^-is an anionic counterion selected from the group consisting of halides;

(ii) oil-in-water emulsion having a D of less than 350 nm₅₀Particle size and comprises:

-a silicone mixture comprising: (i) a trialkylsilyl-terminated dialkylpolysiloxane having a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mpa.s at 25 ℃, and (ii) an aminosilicone having a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mpa.s at 25 ℃ and having an amine value of 2 to 10 mg KOH/g aminosilicone;

-an emulsifier mixture comprising one or more non-ionic emulsifiers, wherein the emulsifier mixture has an HLB value of from 10 to 16; and

-water; and

(iii) at least one fatty alcohol.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein in the formula (I), the group R₁To R₄Contains from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, wherein the aliphatic group may contain heteroatoms, preferably oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or halogen; preferably the surfactant of formula (I) is selected from tetraalkylammonium halides wherein the alkyl group contains from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof; more preferably selected from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, hydroxyethyloleyldimethylammonium chloride, palmitoylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristylacetate) ammonium chloride, or mixtures thereof; even more preferably the surfactant of formula (I) is behenyltrimethylammonium chloride.

3. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the surfactant of formula (I) is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 10 wt. -%, preferably from 0.05 to 5 wt. -%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. The composition of any preceding claim 1 to 3, wherein the trialkylsilyl-terminated dialkylpolysiloxane is of formula (II):

R’₃SiO(R’₂SiO)_pSiR’₃formula (II)

Wherein:

-R', equal to or different from each other, is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and

-p is an integer from 500 to 2000, preferably from 1000 to 2000;

and is preferably PDMS (polydimethylsiloxane or dimethicone).

5. The composition of any preceding claim 1 to 4, wherein the trialkylsilyl-terminated dialkylpolysiloxane has a viscosity of from 40,000 to 70,000 mPa.s at 25 ℃, more preferably from 51,000 to 70,000 mPa.s at 25 ℃.

6. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 5, wherein the aminosilicone has the formula (III):

XR₂Si(OSiAR)_n(OSiR₂)_mOSiR₂x formula (III)

Wherein:

r are identical or different and are monovalent hydrocarbon radicals having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

x, identical or different, are R Or Hydroxy (OH) or C₁-C₆An alkoxy group; preferably X is R;

a is of the formula-R¹-[NR²-R³-]_XNR² ₂Or a protonated amino form of said amino group, wherein R¹Is C₁-C₆Alkylene, preferably of the formula-CH₂CH₂CH₂-or-CH₂CH(CH₃)CH₂A group of (A), R²Same or different and is a hydrogen atom or C₁-C₄Alkyl, preferably a hydrogen atom, R³Is C₁-C₆Alkylene, preferably of the formula-CH₂CH₂-and x is 0 or 1;

-m + n is an integer from 50 to about 1000, preferably from 50 to 600;

preferably, A is of the formula-R¹-[NR²-R³-]_XNR² ₂Or a protonated amino form of said amino group, wherein R¹is-CH₂CH₂CH₂-or-CH₂CH(CH₃)CH₂-，R²Is a hydrogen atom, R³is-CH₂CH₂-, and x is 1.

7. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 6, wherein the aminosilicone has a viscosity of from 1,500 to 15,000 mPa.s and/or an amine number of from 3.5 to 8 mg KOH/g aminosilicone.

8. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 7, wherein the silicone mixture comprises (i) one or more trialkylsilyl-terminated dialkylpolysiloxanes having a viscosity at 25 ℃ of from 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s in an amount of from 70 to 90 wt. -%, preferably from 75 to 85 wt. -%, relative to the total weight of the silicone mixture; and (ii) one or more aminosilicones having a viscosity of from 1,000 to 15,000 mpa.s at 25 ℃ and having an amine number of from 2 to 10 mg KOH/g aminosilicone in an amount of from 10 to 30 wt%, preferably from 15 to 25 wt%.

9. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 8, wherein the emulsifier mixture comprises one or more emulsifiers selected from the group consisting of:

(i) polyoxyalkylene alkyl ethers, especially of the formula R₃-(OCH₂CH₂)_c(poly) ethoxylated fatty alcohols of OH, wherein:

- R₃represents a straight or branched chain C₈-C₄₀Alkyl or alkenyl, preferably C₈-C₃₀An alkyl or alkenyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, and

-c is an integer comprised between 1 and 200, preferably between 2 and 150, and more particularly between 4 and 50, most preferably between 8 and 20 inclusive,

the (poly) ethoxylated fatty alcohols are more particularly fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms oxyethylenated with from 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide (1 to 30 OE);

(ii) polyoxyalkylene (C)₈-C₃₂) An alkyl-phenyl ether having a structure represented by the general formula,

(iii) polyoxyalkylene sorbitan (C)₈-C₃₂) Fatty acid esters, especially polyethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, most preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; preferably polyoxyethyleneAlkylene sorbitan (C)₁₀-C₂₄) Fatty acid esters, preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, most preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; and

(iv) polyoxyethylenated (C)₈-C₃₂) Fatty acid esters containing, for example, 2 to 150 moles of ethylene oxide; polyoxyethylated (C) is preferred₁₀-C₂₄) Fatty acid esters containing, for example, from 2 to 150 moles of ethylene oxide.

10. The composition of any preceding claim 1 to 9, wherein the oil-in-water emulsion comprises:

-the emulsifier mixture in a total amount of 5 to 15 wt. -%, preferably 8 to 15 wt. -%, most preferably 10 to 12 wt. -%, relative to the total weight of the emulsion; and/or

-a nonionic emulsifier in a total amount of from 5 to 15 wt%, preferably from 8 to 15 wt%, most preferably from 10 to 12 wt%, relative to the total weight of the emulsion; and/or

-a cationic emulsifier in a total amount of 0.5 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion; and/or

-a total amount of 40 to 60% by weight, preferably 45 to 55% by weight, of the silicone mixture, relative to the total weight of the emulsion; and/or

-a total amount of 35 to 45 wt.%, preferably 38-42 wt.%, of said trialkylsilyl-terminated dialkylpolysiloxane, relative to the total weight of the emulsion; and/or

-said aminosilicone in a total amount of from 5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 8 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion; and/or

-water in an amount of from 25 to 50% by weight, preferably from 30 to 45% by weight, most preferably from 35 to 42% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 10, in which the oil-in-water emulsion (ii) has a D, expressed by volume, of from 100 to 300 nm, more preferably from 150 to 250 nm, most preferably from 160 to 200 nm₅₀Particle size.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 11, in which the oil-in-water emulsion (ii) is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 8% by weight, even more preferably from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 12, wherein the fatty alcohol is selected from compounds of formula (IV):

R-OH formula (IV)

Wherein:

r represents 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably C₁₂-C₂₄Alkyl or C₁₂-C₂₄Alkenyl, wherein R is optionally substituted with one or more hydroxy, preferably one or two hydroxy; more preferably, the fatty alcohol is selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof; even more preferably selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 13, in which the fatty alcohol is present in an amount ranging from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 3% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 14, further comprising at least one additional silicone selected from polyorganosiloxanes in the form of oils, waxes, resins or glues; preferably selected from polydiorganosiloxanes having a high number average molecular weight of between 200000 and 1000000, preferably between 500000 and 1000000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent.

16. The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 15, wherein the additional silicone is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 10 wt. -%, preferably from 0.05 to 5 wt. -%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

17. Method for the cosmetic treatment of hair, preferably for conditioning hair, comprising the steps of: applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16 to the hair, preferably in the wet state, and optionally rinsing them with water after an optional leave-on time.

Example 1: preparation of oil-in-water emulsions

450 g of aminosilicone fluid (trimethylsilyl-terminated aminoethylaminopropylmethylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymer having an amine value of 7.2 mg KOH/g sample and a viscosity of 5600 mPa.s at 25 ℃) was transferred to an emulsion tank. Stirring was started and 1800 g of a trimethylsilyl-terminated dimethylsiloxane polymer fluid having a viscosity of 61,500 mPa.s at 25 ℃ was transferred to the same tank under stirring. The two fluids were mixed for 2 hours at room temperature.

In a separate tank, 49 g of steareth-6, 62 g of PEG 100 stearate were transferred and heated to 60 ℃. The temperature was maintained until both emulsifiers became liquid. 31 g trideceth-3 and 350 g trideceth-10 (80% active) were then added. The nonionic emulsifier mixture has an HLB value equal to 11.25.

Then 80 g of water and 6.2 g of glacial acetic acid were added to the tank and mixing was started. Mixing was continued until the entire mass became a cream-like paste. The entire paste was transferred to an emulsion tank. Homogenization was performed at room temperature for 30 minutes. 79.6 g of demineralized water are added and homogenized for 60 minutes. Add 72.7 g of demineralized water and homogenize for 50 minutes. 197.4 g of demineralized water were added and homogenized for 5 minutes. 294.3 g of demineralized water were added and homogenized for 5 minutes. 180 g of demineralized water are added and homogenized for 5 minutes. 180 g of demineralized water are added and homogenized for 5 minutes. 197.4 g of demineralized water were added and homogenized for 5 minutes. 197.4 g of demineralized water were added and homogenized for 3 minutes. 228.5 g of demineralized water are added and homogenized for 3 minutes. Finally 40.5 g of 2-phenoxyethanol were added as biocide and homogenized for 3 minutes.

D having a wavelength of 170 nm was obtained₅₀Stable oil-in-water emulsions of particle size.