阅读说明：本技术 一种涤氨纶海岛双面绒面料的工艺方法 (Process method of polyester spandex sea-island double-faced velvet fabric ) 是由 温明华 于 2019-09-29 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明提供了一种涤氨纶海岛双面绒面料的工艺方法,主要通过原料定制、织胚、拉毛起绒、染色、烘干、摇粒、复定型、烫光和剪毛等步骤,所述原料采用的面丝为DTY海岛丝,规格为75D/144F低弹丝；所述中丝为FDY涤纶牵伸丝,规格为50D/36F涤纶丝；所述底丝为氨纶裸丝,规格为40D；所述拉毛起绒分为预定形、正面起毛、起毛布预定形、背面起毛。本发明具有如下优势：(1)采用编织满穿工艺,胚布具有双幅单层的特点；(2)采用独特的针布钢针结构,能够对面料进行双面拉毛且不破坏底丝,具有良好的垂感和超弹力；(3)本发明制备的产品风格独特新颖,能够满足家纺等行业对面料的需求。(The invention provides a process method of a polyester spandex sea-island double-sided velvet fabric, which mainly comprises the steps of raw material customization, blank weaving, napping and raising, dyeing, drying, granule shaking, compound shaping, ironing, shearing and the like, wherein the surface yarn adopted by the raw material is DTY sea-island yarn with the specification of 75D/144F low stretch yarn; the medium yarn is FDY polyester drawn yarn with the specification of 50D/36F polyester yarn; the bottom silk is bare spandex and has the specification of 40D; the napping and raising are divided into presetting, front napping, napping presetting and back napping. The invention has the following advantages: (1) by adopting the weaving full-through process, the gray cloth has the characteristic of double width and single layer; (2) by adopting a unique card clothing steel needle structure, the double-sided napping can be carried out on the fabric without damaging bottom yarns, and the fabric has good draping feeling and super-elasticity; (3) the product prepared by the invention has unique and novel style, and can meet the requirements of industries such as home textile and the like on fabrics.)

1. A process method of a polyester spandex sea-island double-sided velvet fabric is characterized by comprising the steps of raw material customization, blank weaving, napping and raising, dyeing, drying, grain shaking, compound shaping, ironing and polishing and shearing.

2. The process method of claim 1, wherein the fabric comprises face yarn, middle yarn and bottom yarn, the face yarn is polyester DTY sea island yarn with the specification of (50-125) D/144F low stretch yarn, the tension of the drawn monofilament is 15-16g, and the fabric percentage is 70-75%; the medium yarn is FDY polyester drawn yarn with the specification of (30-100) D/36F polyester yarn, the tension of the drawn monofilament is 10-11g, and the percentage of the drawn monofilament in the fabric is 15-20%; the bottom silk is bare spandex silk, the specification of the bottom silk is 20-75D, and the bottom silk accounts for 5-15% of the fabric.

3. The process of claim 1, wherein the blank is knitted by using a Karmeier warp knitting machine, the warp knitting machine adopts 3 pieces of sliver, middle yarn and bottom yarn, and the blank is of a double-width single-layer structure by a full-through method.

4. The process method of the polyester spandex sea-island double-faced pile fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein the napping and raising are divided into: presetting, front napping, cloth napping presetting and back napping:

(1) said reservation beingThe softening temperature is 210-220 ℃, the vehicle speed is 25-28m/min, the gram mass is 250-260g/m²；

(2) The front surface is fluffed for 2-3 times, elastic card clothing with bent steel needles is adopted, the card clothing has higher density and short needles, and the fluffing tension is 0.95-1.05N;

(3) the pre-shaping of the fluffed cloth is carried out at the temperature of 190-²；

(4) The back surface is fluffed for 1-2 times, the fluffed surface is upward, the elastic card clothing with bent steel needles is adopted in the machine, the card clothing density is low, the needle length is long, and the fluffing tension is 0.95-1.05N.

5. The process method of polyester spandex sea-island double-faced pile fabric according to claim 5, wherein the card clothing adopted for the front-side napping and the back-side napping has different steel needle angles.

6. The process method of polyester spandex sea-island double-sided velvet fabric according to claim 1, wherein the dyeing adopts gradient temperature control, the temperature rise rate is 1-3 ℃/min, and the heat preservation time at 130 ℃ is 30-50 min.

7. The process method of polyester spandex sea-island double-faced velvet fabric according to claim 1, wherein the drying temperature is 160-200 ℃, the speed is 15-20m/min, the grain shaking time is 10-15min, and the temperature is 60-75 ℃.

8. The process method of polyester spandex island double-faced velvet fabric according to claim 1, wherein the composite setting temperature is 160-170 ℃; the vehicle speed is 35m/min, the gram mass is 250-.

Technical Field

The invention relates to a textile fabric and a manufacturing method thereof, in particular to a process method of a polyester spandex sea-island double-faced velvet fabric.

Background

At present, most of knitted double-sided fleece fabrics in the textile industry have to be processed after the processes of napping, carding, shearing and the like due to equipment and technology. Meanwhile, in the process of the single-sided flannelette to the double-sided flannelette, the defects of uneven fuzzing, broken edges, easy hair falling, easy tearing and the like can occur, the practical performance of the textile fabric is influenced, and the market acceptance is not good enough.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to overcome the technical defects in the prior art and provides a process method of a polyester spandex island double-sided velvet fabric, which adopts polyester island yarns, warm-keeping yarns and spandex yarns as raw materials and adopts unique bent steel needle clothing to carry out double-sided napping on the fabric, so that the finished product has excellent quality of softness, verticality and elasticity on both sides and has no irritation to skin.

In order to solve the technical problems, the invention provides the following technical scheme:

a process method of a polyester spandex sea-island double-sided velvet fabric comprises the steps of raw material customization, embryo weaving, napping and raising, dyeing, drying, grain shaking, compound shaping, ironing and polishing and shearing.

The fabric comprises face yarns, middle yarns and bottom yarns, wherein the face yarns are polyester DTY sea island yarns with the specification of (50-125) D/144F low stretch yarns, the tension of the drawn monofilaments is 15-16g, and the percentage of the drawn monofilaments in the fabric is 70-75%; the medium yarn is FDY polyester drawn yarn with the specification of (30-100) D/36F polyester yarn, the tension of the drawn monofilament is 10-11g, and the percentage of the drawn monofilament in the fabric is 15-20%; the bottom silk is bare spandex silk, the specification of the bottom silk is 20-75D, and the bottom silk accounts for 5-15% of the fabric.

The blank is woven by using a Karl Meier warp knitting machine, the warp knitting machine adopts 3 comb section yarns, middle yarns and bottom yarns, a full-through method is adopted, and the blank cloth is of a double-width single-layer structure.

The napping and fluffing are divided into: presetting, front napping, cloth napping presetting and back napping:

(1) the predetermined shape softening temperature is 210-220-The speed is 25-28m/min, the gram mass is 250 ℃and 260g/m²；

(2) The front surface is fluffed for 2-3 times, elastic card clothing with bent steel needles is adopted, the card clothing has higher density and short needles, and the fluffing tension is 0.95-1.05N;

(3) presetting the fluffed cloth at the temperature of 190-200 ℃ and the speed of 30-40m/min,

(4) and (3) raising the back for 1-2 times, wherein elastic card clothing with bent steel needles is adopted, the card clothing is low in density, long in needles and 0.95-1.05N in raising tension.

The card clothing adopted by the front napping and the back napping has different steel needle angles.

The dyeing adopts gradient temperature control, the heating rate is 1-3 ℃/min, and the heat preservation time at 130 ℃ is 30-50 min.

The drying temperature is 160-200 ℃, the speed is 15-20m/min, the grain shaking time is 10-15min, and the temperature is 60-75 ℃.

The composite setting temperature is 160-170 ℃; the vehicle speed is 35m/min, the gram mass is 250-.

Advantageous effects

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following remarkable advantages: (1) by adopting the weaving full-through process, the gray cloth has the characteristic of double width and single layer; (2) by adopting a unique card clothing steel needle structure, the double-sided napping can be carried out on the fabric without damaging bottom yarns, and the fabric has good draping feeling and super-elasticity; (3) the product prepared by the invention has unique and novel style, and can meet the requirements of industries such as home textile and the like on fabrics.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a flow chart of the napping and raising process in this embodiment;

FIG. 2 is a schematic view of a card clothing structure adopted for front napping in the napping process in this embodiment;

FIG. 3 is a schematic view of a card clothing structure adopted for back napping in the napping process in this embodiment;

fig. 4 is a process diagram of the double-pile fabric dyeing and finishing in the embodiment.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF EMBODIMENT (S) OF INVENTION

The present invention is described in further detail below with reference to the attached drawing figures.