阅读说明：本技术 一种适用纬向裁剪的特种弹力经编面料及其制备方法 (Special elastic warp-knitted fabric suitable for weft cutting and preparation method thereof ) 是由 姜林强 于 2019-10-15 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明公开了一种适用纬向裁剪的特种弹力经编面料及其制备方法,其特征在于,制备过程包括:1、根据客户需求,选择面料花型风格、成分及规格,制定工艺流程及确定工艺数据。2、根据工艺选备基础材料,选备和基础材料在织造性能、染色性能上匹配的弹性材料。3、基础材料的整经,弹性材料的整经。4、经编上机织造时的现场调整,核对工艺。5、面料参考整理流程的制定、确保经向弹力的方案制定。本发明公开的适用纬向裁剪的特种弹力经编面料是利用经编织造的特点、优点,尽量降低并控制面料自然纬向的拉伸性在10%以下,保持面料自然经向的拉伸性40%以上,在面料纬向裁剪并制造服装时,可以避免传统各类弹性面料的缺陷,提高面料及服装的可制作性、耐穿性。(The invention discloses a special elastic warp-knitted fabric suitable for weft cutting and a preparation method thereof. 2. Selecting a base material according to the process, and selecting an elastic material matched with the base material in weaving performance and dyeing performance. 3. Warping of the base material, warping of the elastic material. 4. And (3) field adjustment and checking process during weaving of the warp knitting machine. 5. Making a fabric reference finishing process and making a scheme for ensuring warp-wise elasticity. The special elastic warp-knitted fabric suitable for weft cutting disclosed by the invention utilizes the characteristics and advantages of warp knitting weaving, reduces and controls the stretchability of the fabric in the natural weft direction to be below 10% as much as possible, keeps the stretchability of the fabric in the natural warp direction to be above 40%, can avoid the defects of various traditional elastic fabrics when the fabric is cut in the weft direction and is used for manufacturing clothes, and improves the manufacturability and the wear resistance of the fabric and the clothes.)

1. A special elastic warp-knitted fabric suitable for weft cutting and a preparation method thereof are characterized by comprising the following steps: (1) designing a warp knitting process: firstly, selecting fabric pattern style, components and specifications according to customer requirements; secondly, establishing a process flow and determining process data; (2) material selection and preparation: firstly, selecting basic materials according to a process; secondly, selecting an elastic material matched with the base material in weaving performance and dyeing performance according to the process; (3) and warping the yarn: warping a base material; secondly, warping (4) and warp knitting of the elastic material: firstly, field adjustment during weaving on a warp knitting machine; ②, checking the process; (5) and fabric dyeing and finishing: firstly, making a fabric reference finishing flow and making a scheme for ensuring the warp-wise elasticity.

2. A special stretch warp-knitted fabric suitable for weft cutting and a preparation method thereof according to claim 1, wherein the warp knitting machine type adopted by warp knitting and weaving includes but is not limited to a tricot machine and a Raschel single needle bed warp knitting machine, the number of guide bars is more than 3, and the machine number is more than 18 needles/inch.

3. A special elastic warp-knitted fabric suitable for weft direction cutting and a preparation method thereof according to claim 1, wherein the fabric styles include but are not limited to: plain weave style after weft cutting, mesh style after weft cutting, horizontal bar style after weft cutting, and horizontal multi-style combination after weft cutting, wherein the width of the horizontal bar in the horizontal bar style after weft cutting is 1 mm-infinity, and the horizontal bar can be in any color or multi-color sharing; after weft cutting, the width of the color bars of the spacing bars in the transverse multi-style combination is 1 mm-infinite, and the pattern can be the combination of any two warp knitting patterns.

4. A special elastic warp-knitted fabric suitable for weft cutting and a preparation method thereof according to claim 1, characterized in that the base material is a low-stretch or non-stretch material, and weft inlay yarns or long-gauge inlay yarns are inserted during warp knitting and weaving to ensure that the stretchability of the fabric in the natural weft direction is as low as possible.

5. A special elastic warp-knitted fabric suitable for weft cutting and a preparation method thereof according to claim 1 are characterized in that chain stitch or other single-needle warp-knitted stitch is looped during warp knitting and weaving, and main base materials are effectively bound to form stable base fabric stitch; the single-needle looping has no transverse cross needle, so that the fabric is ensured to have elasticity only in the natural warp direction.

6. A special elastic warp-knitted fabric suitable for weft cutting and a preparation method thereof according to claim 1, wherein the base material comprises nylon filament, polyester filament and regenerated cellulose filament; pure spun yarns or blended yarns of short fibers such as chinlon, acrylic fibers, cotton, wool, mulberry silk, regenerated cellulose and the like; the specification of the nylon filament is 30D/12f-300D/144f, the specification of the polyester filament is 30D/12f-300D/576f, the specification of the regenerated cellulose filament is 50D/12f-300D/96f, the specification of pure spun yarn or blended yarn of short fibers such as terylene, chinlon, acrylic fiber, cotton, wool, mulberry silk, regenerated cellulose and the like is 16Ne/1-70Ne/1 of single yarn, 21Ne/2-160Ne/2 of plied yarn, the elastic material comprises spandex filament, and the specification is 30D-210D; various chemical fiber filaments such as terylene, chinlon and the like are used as leather yarns, spandex is used as covering yarns of core yarns, the covering yarns comprise single-covered and double-covered types, the specification of the spandex is 30D-210D, and the specification of the chemical fiber filaments is 30D-300D; the pure spinning or blended spinning single yarn of short fibers such as terylene, chinlon, acrylic fiber, cotton, wool, mulberry silk, regenerated cellulose and the like is used as leather yarn, the spandex is used as cladding yarn of core yarn and comprises single-package and double-package types, the specification of the spandex is 30D-210D, and the specification of the short fiber yarn is 16Ne/1-70 Ne/1; single-component elastic filament fibers such as PTT, PBT and the like, the specification is 30D-300D; PTT + PET bi-component elastic filament fiber with the specification of 30D-300D; the PBT + PET bi-component elastic filament fiber has the specification of 30D-300D, and the pattern material is the same as the basic material.

7. The special elastic warp-knitted fabric suitable for weft cutting and the preparation method thereof according to claim 1, wherein the fabric elastic material can adopt 1-0/0-1// process structure; 1-0/1-0//, 1-0/1-1// etc. pillar stitches, or pad-lacking pillar changes; 0-0/0-0// warp lining tissue; 0-0/1-1//, 0-0/0-0/1-1/1-1// and other single needle weft insertion weaves and variations thereof; the base material can adopt 0-0/3-3// process organization; 0-0/4-4//, 0-0/5-5//, 0-0/6-6//, 1-0/2-3//, 1-0/3-4//, 1-0/4-5//, 1-0/5-6// and the like, and the number of the weft insertion tissues or the loop forming tissues above 3 needles can be increased as required; the pattern material can adopt any warp knitting structure.

8. A special elastic warp-knitted fabric suitable for weft direction cutting and a preparation method thereof according to claim 1, wherein the fabric finishing process comprises the following steps: open width water washing, grey cloth shaping, in-cylinder dyeing and finished product shaping; when the open width is washed, the low tension is kept in the washing equipment, and 30% -40% of overfeeding is set, so that the yarns are fully retracted to generate elasticity; overfeeding must be kept 15% -20% when the gray cloth is shaped; in-cylinder dyeing is to properly reduce the in-cylinder cloth speed and set 180 seconds/circle; the finished product is not pulled or slightly overfed by 0-5 percent when being shaped.

9. A special elastic warp-knitted fabric suitable for weft cutting and a preparation method thereof according to claim 1, wherein the fabric cutting mode is a weft cutting mode.

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of warp knitting, in particular to a special elastic warp knitting fabric suitable for weft cutting and a preparation method thereof.

Technical Field

The elastic fabric clothes are widely applied to people in life, the advantages of comfort, fitness, fineness, smoothness and suitability for sports and leisure are widely known, and common elastic fabrics comprise woven elastic fabrics, weft-knitted elastic fabrics and warp-knitted elastic fabrics. The woven elastic fabric can be selectively added with elastic fibers in the warp direction or the weft direction according to needs to produce fabrics such as warp elasticity, weft elasticity, four-side elasticity and the like, the production is convenient and effective, the elasticity of the woven elastic fabric is limited by warp yarns or weft yarns, the elasticity extensibility is slightly small, and the stretchability of the common woven elastic fabric is as follows: the warp stretchability is about 20%, and the weft stretchability is about 20%. The weft-knitted elastic fabric is very rich, has high quality and low cost, and the fabric is four-sided elastic according to the looping and cloth-forming principle of weft knitting, namely the fabric is elastic in all directions and is very suitable for next-to-skin clothes such as underwear and the like, and the stretchability of most of the weft-knitted elastic fabric is as follows: the warp stretchability is about 65%, and the weft stretchability is about 50%. The traditional elastic fabric in warp knitting and knitting is similar to weft knitting, and basically is a four-side stretch product, and the stretchability of most warp knitting elastic fabrics is as follows: the warp stretchability is about 70%, and the weft stretchability is about 45%.

In addition to weaving, the traditional knitted elastic fabric (comprising knitting modes such as weft knitting, warp knitting and the like) is basically a four-side elastic fabric, a warp cutting mode (shown in an attached drawing 1) is generally adopted in the garment manufacturing process, when the warp cutting mode (shown in the attached drawing 1) is adopted in the garment manufacturing process, although the excellent weft elastic force of the four-side elastic fabric is in accordance with the principle of ergonomics, particularly in sports occasions and leisure occasions with large activity, the weft elastic force is fully matched with any stretching activities of a human body, and the fabric can be quickly restored and maintained after stopping; however, too much warp elasticity is disadvantageous, as follows: 1. when the clothes are manufactured, the sewing difficulty is increased, and the clothes are often wrinkled and irregular during sewing; 2. when the clothes are manufactured, the ironing difficulty is increased, and wrinkles are easy to generate; 3. when the clothes are worn, people can easily feel bound and cylindrical; 4. the clothes are easy to stretch longitudinally, so that the shape feeling is poor when the clothes are worn, and the shape keeping degree is reduced; 5. the clothes form degree and the thin and long feeling are reduced, and a plurality of designers are troubled; 6. after the clothes are worn and washed for many times, the overlarge warp elasticity generates fatigue, and the clothes become long and small; the wrinkling phenomenon at the cuffs, the sewing part and the front fly part is more obvious while the length is lengthened and reduced; the decrease in the wear resistance generally results in waste when discarded.

Disclosure of Invention

A special elastic warp-knitted fabric suitable for weft cutting and a preparation method thereof.

Designing a warp knitting process: firstly, selecting fabric pattern style, components and specifications according to customer requirements: the fabric pattern style comprises: plain weave style after weft cutting, mesh style after weft cutting, horizontal stripe style after weft cutting, and transverse multi-style combination after weft cutting; the width of the horizontal bar in the horizontal bar style after weft cutting is 1 mm-infinite, and the horizontal bar can be in any color or can be shared by multiple colors; and after weft cutting, the transverse multi-style combination is carried out, the width of the spacing bar is 1 mm-infinite, and the pattern can be the combination of any two warp knitting patterns. Secondly, establishing a process flow and determining process data: the warp knitting machine used in the warp knitting manufacture includes, but is not limited to, tricot and raschel single-needle bed warp knitting machines, the number of guide bars is more than 3, and the machine number is more than 18 needles/inch. The fabric elastic material can adopt 1-0/0-1// technical structure; 1-0/1-0//, 1-0/1-1// etc. pillar stitches, or pad-lacking pillar changes; 0-0/0-0// warp lining tissue; 0-0/1-1//, 0-0/0-0/1-1/1-1// and other single needle weft insertion weaves and variations thereof; the base material can adopt 0-0/3-3// process organization; 0-0/4-4//, 0-0/5-5//, 0-0/6-6//, 1-0/2-3//, 1-0/3-4//, 1-0/4-5//, 1-0/5-6// and the like, and the number of the weft insertion tissues or the loop forming tissues above 3 needles can be increased as required; the pattern material can adopt any warp knitting structure.

Material selection and preparation: firstly, selecting basic materials according to the process, wherein the basic materials can be selected from nylon filaments, polyester filaments and regenerated cellulose filaments; pure spun yarns or blended yarns of short fibers such as terylene, chinlon, acrylon, cotton, wool, mulberry silk, regenerated cellulose and the like; the specification of the nylon filament is 30D/12f-300D/144f, the specification of the polyester filament is 30D/12f-300D/576f, the specification of the regenerated cellulose filament is 50D/12f-300D/96f, and the specification of pure spun yarn or blended yarn of short fibers of the polyester, the nylon, the acrylic fiber, the cotton, the wool, the mulberry silk, the regenerated cellulose and the like is 16Ne/1-70Ne/1 and 21Ne/2-160Ne/2 of single yarn. Secondly, selecting an elastic material matched with the base material in weaving performance and dyeing performance according to the process; the elastic material comprises spandex filaments, and the specification is 30D-210D; various chemical fiber filaments such as terylene, chinlon and the like are used as leather yarns, spandex is used as covering yarns of core yarns, the covering yarns comprise single-covered and double-covered types, the specification of the spandex is 30D-210D, and the specification of the chemical fiber filaments is 30D-300D; the pure spinning or blended spinning single yarn of short fibers such as terylene, chinlon, acrylic fiber, cotton, wool, mulberry silk, regenerated cellulose and the like is used as leather yarn, the spandex is used as cladding yarn of core yarn and comprises single-package and double-package types, the specification of the spandex is 30D-210D, and the specification of the short fiber yarn is 16Ne/1-70 Ne/1; single-component elastic filament fibers such as PTT, PBT and the like, the specification is 30D-300D; PTT + PET bi-component elastic filament fiber with the specification of 30D-300D; the PBT + PET bi-component elastic filament fiber has the specification of 30D-300D.

Warping yarns: warping a base material; ② warping the elastic material.

Warp knitting: firstly, the on-site adjustment during the weaving of the warp knitting machine, and the process is carefully checked during the warp knitting machine, thereby avoiding the false hanging and the yarn end. Secondly, carefully checking all elements of the cloth cover: the existence of defects such as vertical strips, horizontal strips, drop stitches and the like.

And carefully measuring the weaving tension of each yarn to ensure that the cloth surface is smooth and the yarn is broken less.

Dyeing and finishing the fabric: the fabric finishing process comprises the following steps: open width water washing, grey cloth shaping, in-cylinder dyeing and finished product shaping; when the open width is washed, the low tension is kept in the washing equipment, and 30% -40% of overfeeding is set, so that the yarns are fully retracted to generate elasticity; overfeeding must be kept 15% -20% when the gray cloth is shaped; in-cylinder dyeing is to properly reduce the in-cylinder cloth speed and set 180 seconds/circle; when the finished product is shaped, the excellent warp-direction elasticity is ensured by not pulling or lightly overfeeding 0-5%.

Furthermore, the cutting mode of the fabric adopts a weft cutting mode, as shown in the attached figure 2.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following advantages and effects: the fabric has excellent elasticity in the warp direction, and basically has no elasticity in the weft direction, the fabric can replace the fabric with excellent elasticity in both the warp direction and the weft direction, when the fabric adopts a weft cutting mode (as shown in figure 2) opposite to the traditional warp cutting (as shown in figure 1) in the garment manufacturing process, the weft direction of the garment has basically no elasticity, and the warp elasticity is excellent, so that the difficulty of the fabric with excellent elasticity in both the warp direction and the weft direction in the garment manufacturing process is solved, and the performance of the garment in the wearing process is improved simultaneously through the design of the fabric.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of the warp cutting mode of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram of the weft cutting mode of the present invention.

FIG. 3 is a schematic view of the structure of 1-0/0-1// process.

FIG. 4 is a schematic diagram of the structure of 0-0/3-3// process.

FIG. 5 is a schematic view of the structure of 1-2/1-0// process.

FIG. 6 is a CAD simulation of the shell fabric in example 1.

Detailed Description