阅读说明：本技术 一种男衬衣袖衩的裁剪与缝制方法 (method for cutting and sewing shirt sleeve underpants for men ) 是由 邓春元 郝瑞闽 曹小华 张英姿 于 2019-10-22 设计创作，主要内容包括：一种男衬衣袖衩的裁剪与缝制方法,属于服装制作技术领域。步骤：绘制门襟包衩条和里襟包衩条,所述的门襟包衩条由竖直方向的中心线分隔成左半片和右半片,且将左半片的上端绘制成等腰状的尖角；根据绘制好的门襟包衩条、里襟包衩条进行裁制,均向外延伸设置缝份；沿各缝份扣烫门襟包衩条和里襟包衩条；将门襟包衩条的右半片向左对折熨烫,将尖角的右侧底角的顶点在对折后与左半片侧边的交点标记为o点,所述的尖角在对折后构成为宝剑头并进行熨烫；将门襟包衩条和里襟包衩条缝制到后袖片以形成袖衩。优点：能使成品的正反面都平服且易于操作；能提高裁制效率且背面不露线迹；全程工序简单,只有扣烫和缝制两道工序,对操作者的经验要求降低。(a method for cutting and sewing the sleeve underpants of a male shirt belongs to the technical field of garment manufacturing. The method comprises the following steps: drawing a front opening vent strip and a lining opening vent strip, wherein the front opening vent strip is divided into a left half piece and a right half piece by a central line in the vertical direction, and the upper end of the left half piece is drawn into an isosceles sharp angle; cutting according to drawn vent strips of the front fly and the lining vent strips, and arranging seam parts in an outward extending manner; pressing a front opening vent strip and a lining front opening vent strip along each seam; folding and ironing the right half piece of the vent strip of the front fly leftwards, marking the point of intersection of the top of the bottom angle at the right side of the sharp angle and the side edge of the left half piece after folding as a point o, and forming a sword head after folding the sharp angle; the front vent strip and the under vent strip are sewn to the back sleeve panels to form sleeve vents. The advantages are that: the front and back sides of the finished product can be flat and the operation is easy; the cutting efficiency can be improved, and the back surface does not expose the stitches; the whole process is simple, only two processes of buckling and ironing and sewing are needed, and the experience requirement on operators is reduced.)

1. A cutting and sewing method of male shirt sleeve slit is used for sewing a slit strip on a sleeve body slit to form the sleeve slit with a sword-shaped shape, and is characterized by comprising the following steps:

S1) drawing a front opening vent strip (1) and an inner opening vent strip (2), wherein the front opening vent strip (1) is divided into a left half piece and a right half piece by a central line in the vertical direction, the upper end of the left half piece is drawn into an isosceles sharp angle (11), the height of the sharp angle (11) is 0.9-1.1 cm, the right oblique edge of the sharp angle (11) extends to the rightmost side of the right half piece, the height of the right oblique edge is 2.5-3 cm, the distance from the top to the bottom edge of the sharp angle (11) of the front opening vent strip (1) is 13-15 cm, the width of the front opening vent strip (1) is 3-4 cm, the inner opening vent strip (2) is long strip-shaped, and has the length of 11-12.5 cm and the width of 1.8-2 cm;

S2) cutting according to drawn front opening strip (1) and back opening strip (2), wherein seam parts of the front opening strip (1) in the left side in the width direction and the left side bevel edge of the sharp corner (11) extend outwards for 0.6-0.7 cm, seam parts of the front opening strip (1) in the right side in the width direction and the right side bevel edge of the sharp corner (11) extend outwards for 0.7-0.8 cm, seam parts of the front opening strip (1) are not arranged at the bottom edge, seam parts of the back opening strip (2) in the left side in the width direction extend outwards for 0.6-0.7 cm, seam parts of the right side in the width direction extend outwards for 0.7-0.8 cm, and the seam parts of the left side and the right side differ by 0.1 cm;

S3) pressing a front vent strip (1) and a back vent strip (2) along each seam;

s4) folding and ironing the right half piece of the front fly vent strip (1) leftwards to form a front fly vent strip opening (13), marking the point of intersection of the vertex of the right bottom angle of the sharp corner (11) and the side of the left half piece after folding to be a point o, forming a sword head (12) after folding to iron the sharp corner (11), enabling the side of the upper side surface of the front fly vent strip opening (13) to protrude 0.1cm more than the side of the lower side surface, folding and ironing the inner front fly vent strip (2) leftwards along the central line in the vertical direction to form an inner front fly vent strip opening (21), and enabling the side of the upper side surface of the inner front fly vent strip opening (21) to protrude 0.1cm more than the side of the lower side surface;

s5) sewing the front vent strip (1) and the back vent strip (2) to the back sleeve piece to form the sleeve vent.

2. The method for cutting and sewing underpants for men' S shirts according to claim 1, wherein the step S5) comprises the steps of:

S51) following the step S4), directly stacking the under vent strip (2) on the top of the top fly strip (1) with the bottoms of the under vent strip and the top of the top fly strip aligned, wherein an opening (21) of the under vent strip and an opening (13) of the top fly strip are arranged back to back, and the opening side edge of the opening (21) of the under vent strip is aligned with or inwardly contracted by 0.09-0.11 cm relative to the right side edge of the top fly strip (1);

S52) determining the position of the slit of the sleeve back sleeve piece cuff, marking a slit line (d), pasting a front slit strip (1) and a back slit strip (2) on the upper end of the slit line (d) in a state that the back slit strip (2) faces the back sleeve piece, enabling a lapel head (12) to be aligned with the slit line (d) in an inverted state, sewing a bright line (3) in the horizontal direction by taking an o point as a reference, wherein the length of the bright line (3) is the width of the front slit strip (1), and finally, sewing back stitches at two ends of the bright line (3);

S53) cutting a Y-shaped cut (d1) at a position 0.9-1.1 cm away from the bright line (3) along a slit line (d) of the slit to form a slit;

S54) folding the lapel vent strip (1) through the Y-shaped cut (d1) to the front of the back sleeve piece, and meanwhile, the lapel vent strip (1) and the under-cut vent strip (2) face the bottom end of the sleeve vent cut line (d) on the back of the back sleeve piece, namely, the sleeve opening direction of the back sleeve piece is folded;

S55) turning to the front of the back sleeve piece, firstly enabling an under cut strip opening (21) to wrap one side of the back sleeve piece opening and sewing an under cut strip seam (22), and ending from the cuff as a starting point to the cut of the Y-shaped cut (d1), then enabling a front opening strip opening (13) to wrap the other side of the cut and sewing a front opening strip seam (14), wherein the front opening strip seam (14) extends from the cuff to the position of the sword-shaped head (12), thereby forming the sleeve opening with the appearance of the sword-shaped head.

3. the method for cutting and sewing underpants for men' S shirts according to claim 2, wherein the length of the slit of the back sleeve cuff in the step S53) is 9-11 cm.

4. the method for cutting and sewing under shirt sleeve according to claim 2, wherein in step S55), the stitches of the under shirt slit seam (22) and the front shirt slit seam (14) are 0.09-0.11 cm, the stitches are 301, and the needle pitch is 18-21 needles/3 cm.

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the technical field of garment manufacturing, and particularly relates to a method for cutting and sewing sleeves of a shirt for men.

background

The cuff is an important constituent element of the shirt for men, and the structure and the process form of the cuff are important standards for measuring the quality of the shirt, so that the sewing process requirement of the cuff is high, and a part needing fine operation often needs to spend much time and energy of workers. Common shirt sleeve cuts are divided into two types according to the shape: flat sleeve cuts and saber sleeve cuts. The traditional method for sewing the sleeve slit of the sword has the following defects in the actual operation process: firstly, the back of the cuff is often uneven and has hair because the cuff strips are sewn from the front; secondly, two slit strips are adopted, and sewing is carried out in a split manner, so that the cutting is complex and the process is complicated; thirdly, the open thread of the front side of the cuff part needs to be measured and positioned during sewing, so that the requirement on an operator is high; fourthly, the slit parts of the sleeves are firstly cut when the slit strips are sewn, so that burrs are easy to generate; fifthly, the ironing links are multiple, the whole process is complicated, and the efficiency is low.

Chinese patent No. CN106805297B introduces a 'tailoring and sewing method of clothing sleeve vent', which adopts a vent strip with a structure, and aims to reduce the process, shorten the manufacturing time and improve the tailoring efficiency, but in fact, the practical operation verification shows that the overlapping layer number of the fabric of the rapier part of the sleeve vent is as high as nine layers, and the part and the rest part of the vent strip form a large drop in the layer number, which can cause the fabric to be not flat; in addition, the slit of the improved sleeve slit is cut into an I-shaped slit, and the upper end of the slit is over against the sharp part of the sword head when being sewn, so that hair is easily exposed and damaged; in addition, when the rapier head is sewn to be exposed, the patent requires that the slit strips folded on the front side and the back side are sewn at the same time, but due to the fact that the number of the folded layers is increased, the rapier head on the back side is not easy to be sewn, and sewing difficulty is increased.

In view of the above-mentioned prior art, the applicant has made an advantageous design, and the technical solutions described below have been made in this context.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to provide a cutting and sewing method for the sleeve underpants of a male shirt, which has the advantages of less and simple required procedures, easy operation, production efficiency improvement and finished product quality guarantee.

the invention aims to achieve the purpose, and the cutting and sewing method of the sleeve slit of the male shirt is used for sewing the slit strip on the sleeve slit to form the sleeve slit with the shape of a sword-shaped head, and is characterized by comprising the following steps:

s1) drawing a front opening vent strip and a back opening vent strip, wherein the front opening vent strip is divided into a left half piece and a right half piece by a central line in the vertical direction, the upper end of the left half piece is drawn into an isosceles sharp angle, the height of the sharp angle is 0.9-1.1 cm, the right side oblique edge of the sharp angle extends to the rightmost side of the right half piece, the height of the right side oblique edge is 2.5-3 cm, the distance from the top to the bottom edge of the sharp angle of the front opening vent strip is 13-15 cm, the width of the front opening vent strip is 3-4 cm, the length of the back strip vent strip is 11-12.5 cm, and the width of the back strip is 1.8-2 cm;

s2) cutting according to drawn vent strips of the front fly and the drawn vent strips of the back fly, wherein the left side edge of the vent strip in the width direction and the left side oblique edge of the sharp corner extend outwards to form seam parts of 0.6-0.7 cm, the right side edge of the vent strip in the width direction and the right side oblique edge of the sharp corner extend outwards to form seam parts of 0.7-0.8 cm, the bottom edge of the vent strip is not provided with seam parts, the left side edge of the vent strip of the back fly extends outwards in the width direction to form seam parts of 0.6-0.7 cm, the right side edge of the vent strip in the width direction extends outwards to form seam parts of 0.7-0.8 cm, and the seam parts of the left side edge and the right side edge are different by 0.1 cm;

S3) pressing a front opening vent strip and a lining vent strip along each seam;

S4) folding and ironing the right half piece of the front fly vent strip leftwards to form a front fly vent strip opening, marking the point of intersection of the vertex of the right bottom angle of the sharp angle and the side edge of the left half piece after folding to be a point o, forming a sword head after folding to iron, protruding 0.1cm from the side edge of the upper side surface of the front fly vent strip opening compared with the side edge of the lower side surface, folding and ironing the inner front fly vent strip leftwards along the central line in the vertical direction to form an inner front fly vent strip opening, and protruding 0.1cm from the side edge of the upper side surface of the inner front fly vent strip opening compared with the side edge of the lower side surface;

S5) sewing the front vent strip and the under vent strip to the back sleeve panel to form a vent.

in a specific embodiment of the present invention, the step S5) includes the following steps:

S51) following the step S4), directly stacking the under vent strip on the top of the top fly strip with the bottom ends of the under vent strip and the top fly strip aligned, wherein the opening of the under vent strip and the opening of the top fly strip are arranged back to back, and the side edge of the opening of the under vent strip is aligned with or inwardly contracted by 0.09-0.11 cm relative to the right side edge of the top fly strip;

S52) determining the position of the slit of the sleeve back sleeve piece cuff, marking the slit line of the sleeve, attaching the front vent strip and the back vent strip to the upper end of the slit line of the sleeve in a state that the back vent strip faces the back sleeve piece, and aligning the lappet head to the slit line of the sleeve in an inverted state, sewing a bright line in the horizontal direction by taking the point o as a reference, wherein the length of the bright line is the width of the front vent strip, and finally sewing back stitches at the two ends of the bright line;

S53) cutting a Y-shaped cut at a position 0.9-1.1 cm away from the open line along the slit line of the cuff to form a slit;

S54) folding the lappet heads of the front slit strips upwards to the front faces of the rear sleeve pieces through Y-shaped cuts, and meanwhile, the front slit strips and the back slit strips face the bottom ends of slit lines of the sleeve cuts on the back faces of the rear sleeve pieces, namely the sleeve openings of the rear sleeve pieces are folded in the directions;

S55) turning to the front side of the back sleeve piece, firstly enabling an opening of an under cut strip to wrap one side of an opening of the back sleeve piece and sewing an under cut strip seam, and ending the sewing from a cuff as a starting point to a cutting position of a Y-shaped cut, then enabling an opening of a front cut strip to wrap the other side of the opening and sewing a front cut strip seam, wherein the front cut strip seam extends from the cuff to the position of the sword head, and thus the sleeve cut with the appearance of the sword head is formed.

In another specific embodiment of the invention, the cut length of the back sleeve cuff in the step S53) is 9-11 cm.

in another specific embodiment of the invention, in the step S55), stitches of the under vent strip stitch and the front vent strip stitch are 0.09-0.11 cm, the stitch requirement is 301, and the needle pitch is 18-21 needles/3 cm.

due to the adoption of the structure, compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that: the sleeve slit opening is sewn from the reverse side of the fabric, so that the front and the back of the finished product are flat and easy to operate; the front opening vent strip and the lining vent strip are overlapped and then combined for sewing, so that the sewing time can be shortened, the cutting efficiency can be improved, and the back side does not expose stitches; the position of the open line of the front double-edged sword head part is determined when the vent strip is ironed, so that the operation is easy, and the cutting efficiency can be further improved; the mode of sewing first and then cutting the opening is convenient to operate, and fluffing in the sewing process can be avoided, so that the quality of finished products is ensured; the whole process is simple, only two processes of buckling and ironing and sewing are needed, and the experience requirement on operators is reduced.

Drawings

Fig. 1 is a cutting schematic diagram of the vent strip of the front fly and the vent strip of the under fly.

Fig. 2 is a schematic view of the button ironing of the vent strip and the under vent strip along the seam in step S3).

Fig. 3 is a schematic view of the double-folded vent strip and the under vent strip in step S4).

fig. 4 is a schematic view of the step S51) of superposing the under vent strip on the door vent strip.

fig. 5 is a schematic view of sewing the vent slit strip and the under slit strip to the back of the rear sleeve piece and cutting the Y-shaped cut in the rear sleeve piece in step S52) and step S53).

fig. 6 is a schematic view of the step S54) of folding the rapier head over the front rear sleeve front placket slit strip and the under placket slit strip at the rear sleeve back.

fig. 7 is a front view of the back sleeve panel corresponding to fig. 6.

fig. 8 is a schematic view of the step S55) of opening the vent strip and the under vent strip to wrap the vent side edges at the front of the back sleeve.

Fig. 9 is a schematic view of the sewn under vent strip sewing line 22 described in step S55).

Fig. 10 is a schematic view of the slit vent strip seam 14 described in step S55).

Fig. 11 is a schematic view of the back of a finished sleeve slit product.

Detailed Description

the following detailed description of the embodiments of the present invention will be described with reference to the accompanying drawings, but the description of the embodiments is not intended to limit the technical solutions, and any changes in form and not essential to the inventive concept should be regarded as the protection scope of the present invention.

Referring to fig. 1 to 11, a method for cutting and sewing a cuff of a male shirt, which is used for sewing a cuff strip to a cuff body slit to form a sword-shaped cuff, comprises the following steps:

s1) drawing a front opening vent strip 1 and a back opening vent strip 2, wherein the front opening vent strip 1 is divided into a left half piece and a right half piece by a central line in the vertical direction, the upper end of the left half piece is drawn into an isosceles sharp angle 11, the height of the sharp angle 11 is 0.9-1.1 cm, preferably 1cm, the right oblique side of the sharp angle 11 extends to the rightmost side of the right half piece, the height of the right oblique side is 2.5-3 cm, preferably 2.5cm, the distance from the top of the sharp angle 11 of the front opening vent strip 1 to the bottom edge is 13-15 cm, the width of the front opening vent strip 1 is 3-4 cm, the back opening vent strip 2 is long, the length is 11-12.5 cm, and the width is 1.8-2 cm (see figure 1);

s2) cutting according to a drawn front opening strip 1 and a drawn back opening strip 2, wherein the left side edge of the front opening strip 1 in the width direction and the left side oblique edge of a sharp corner 11 extend outwards to form a seam part of 0.6-0.7 cm, the right side edge of the front opening strip 1 in the width direction and the right side oblique edge of the sharp corner 11 extend outwards to form a seam part of 0.7-0.8 cm, the bottom edge of the front opening strip 1 is not provided with a seam part, the back opening strip 2 extends outwards from the left side edge of the width direction to form a seam part of 0.6-0.7 cm, the right side edge of the width direction extends outwards to form a seam part of 0.7-0.8 cm, the seam parts of the left side edge and the right side edge are different by 0.1cm (see figure 1), when in actual operation, the seam parts of the left side edge and the oblique angle part of the center line can be ironed to the left, the left side edge of the center line is buckled on the basis of a central line, and the left side edge of cloth is ironed, and the left side edge of the cloth is covered by a certain thickness, the thickness can generally form a difference of 0.1cm between the widths of the left and right parts, namely the width of the right part of the central line is 0.1cm more than that of the left part, which is beneficial to the sewing of the cuff;

s3) pressing a vent strip 1 and a lining vent strip 2 along each seam;

s4) folding and ironing the right half piece of the front opening strip 1 to the left to form a front opening strip opening 13, marking the point of intersection of the vertex of the right bottom corner of the sharp corner 11 and the side edge of the left half piece after folding to be a point o, forming a sword head 12 after folding the sharp corner 11, ironing, folding the side edge of the upper side surface of the front opening strip opening 13 to protrude 0.1cm more than the side edge of the lower side surface, folding and ironing the back opening strip 2 to the left along the central line in the vertical direction to form a back opening strip opening 21, folding and ironing the side edge of the upper side surface of the back opening strip opening 21 to protrude 0.1cm more than the side edge of the lower side surface (see figure 3), and folding and buckling ironing can be carried out according to the operation method of the front opening strip 1 to protrude 0.1cm more than the side edge of the upper side surface;

s5) sewing the front vent strip 1 and the under vent strip 2 to the rear sleeve panel to form a vent.

Further, the step S5) includes the following steps:

s51) following the step S4), directly overlapping the under vent strip 2 on the top of the top vent strip 1 (on the side of the top vent strip 1 with the sharp corner 11 and the folded edge) with the bottom ends aligned, wherein the upper end of the under vent strip 2 is about 0.5cm higher than the horizontal line of the o point, so that the two can be conveniently sewn by a subsequent open line, the opening 21 of the under vent strip and the opening 13 of the top vent strip are arranged back to back, and the opening side of the opening 21 of the under vent strip is aligned with the right side of the top vent strip 1 or retracted inwards by 0.09-0.11 cm (see FIG. 4);

S52) determining the position of the slit of the sleeve back sleeve piece cuff, marking a slit line d, attaching a front vent strip 1 and a back vent strip 2 to the upper end of the slit line d in a state that the back vent strip 2 faces the back sleeve piece, aligning a sword-shaped head 12 to the slit line d in an inverted state, sewing a bright line 3 in the horizontal direction by taking the o point as a reference, wherein the length of the bright line 3 is the width of the front vent strip 1, and finally punching back needles at the two ends of the bright line 3 (see figure 5);

s53) cutting a Y-shaped cut d1 at a position 0.9-1.1 cm away from the bright line 3 along the cut line d of the sleeve cut to form a cut (see figure 5), wherein the length of the cut is 9-11 cm;

s54) the lapel vent strip 1 is turned over upwards to the front of the rear sleeve piece through a Y-shaped cut d1, and meanwhile, the lapel vent strip 1 and the under vent strip 2 face the bottom end of the sleeve slit seam line d on the back of the rear sleeve piece, namely the cuff direction of the rear sleeve piece is turned over (see the figure 6 and the figure 7), so that the open line can be hidden after turning over, and the stitches are not exposed on the back of the sleeve slit;

S55) turning to the front side of the back sleeve piece, firstly enabling an under cut strip opening 21 to wrap one side of an under cut of the back sleeve piece and sewing an under cut strip seam 22, enabling the under cut strip opening to end from a cuff as a starting point to a cut part of a Y-shaped cut d1 (see figures 8 and 9), then enabling a front opening strip opening 13 to wrap the other side of the cut and sewing a front opening strip seam 14, wherein the front opening strip seam 14 extends from the cuff to a position 12 of a sword-shaped head, so that the sleeve cut (see figure 10) with the sword-shaped appearance is formed, the stitches on the two sides of the cut are 0.09-0.11 cm, preferably 0.1cm, the stitches are required to be 301, and the needle pitch is 18-21 needles/3 cm.

further, considering the skill of the operator, after the step S51), a sewing thread may be sewn once at the position of the open thread 3 to fix the vent strip 1 and the vent strip 2, and then the step S52) may be performed, and the open thread 3 may be sewn again by overlapping the sewing thread, and then the steps S53) and S54) may be performed to complete the cuff having the sword-head appearance (see fig. 11).

in the invention, the front opening vent strip 1 and the under opening vent strip 2 are overlapped and then merged for sewing, so that the sewing time can be shortened, and the cutting efficiency can be improved; the mode of sewing first and then cutting the opening is convenient to operate, and fluffing in the sewing process can be avoided, so that the quality of finished products is ensured; the whole process is simple, only two processes of buckling and ironing and sewing are needed, and the experience requirement on operators is reduced.