阅读说明：本技术 一种省道插领式女装裁制方法 (Provincial road collar inserting type suit-dress tailoring method ) 是由 陈文强 胡佳佳 于 2021-07-15 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明公开了一种省道插领式女装裁制方法,前后衣片属于合体结构的裁制方法,前后衣片结构中包含插领和连领结构。袖片属于一片袖结构的裁制方法,且在袖山中设有层浪褶的裁制。裙片属于前后身裙片为合体结构,且在裙片外侧设有层浪褶的裁制。后领片属于独立本结构的裁制,并与前衣片连领缝合构成服装立领整体造型。插领底座属于独立结构的裁剪,并与前衣片中的插领缝合构成服装省道插领的整体造型。挂面是在后领片与前衣片连领匹配后复制裁剪的,且在衣片的基础上长出20厘米,用于缝合立领和安装拉链。驳角属于独立结构裁剪,驳角用于与衣片插领剪口3进行匹配缝合。(The invention discloses a province road collar inserting type suit-dress cutting method.A front garment piece and a rear garment piece belong to a cutting method of a fit structure, and the front garment piece and the rear garment piece comprise collar inserting structures and collar connecting structures. The sleeve sheet belongs to a cutting method of a one-piece sleeve structure, and the sleeve mountain is provided with a cutting of layer wave folds. The skirt piece belongs to the front and back body skirt pieces and is of a fit structure, and the outer side of the skirt piece is provided with a layer of wave pleat cutting. The back collar piece belongs to the cutting of the independent structure and is sewn with the front garment piece to form the integral shape of the stand collar of the clothes. The collar inserting base belongs to cutting of an independent structure and is sewn with the collar in the front garment piece to form an integral shape of the dart collar of the garment. The fine dried noodles are copied and cut after the back collar piece is matched with the front garment piece in a linking mode, and are 20 cm long on the basis of the garment pieces and used for sewing the stand collar and installing the zipper. The lapel angle belongs to an independent structure cutting, and is used for matching and sewing with the collar inserting cut-out 3 of the garment piece.)

1. A dart road collar inserting type suit-dress tailoring method is characterized by comprising the following steps:

1) front and rear garment piece sample drawing

Drawing a back middle line segment al, taking a point a as a vertical line segment lg2, taking a point g2 as a vertical line segment g2g, taking a point h4 on the line segment lg2, and taking a point h4 as a vertical line segment h4h, wherein the length of the back middle line segment al is 0.247 multiplied by cm, the length of a waist line segment lg2 is 0.641 multiplied by cm, the length of a front door flap line segment g2g is 0.194 multiplied by cm, and the length of a front side seam line segment h4h and a rear side seam line segment h4h are 0.235 multiplied by cm;

respectively taking points b, k and k2 on a line segment al, respectively taking points k and k2 as vertical line segments kk1 and k2k3, respectively taking a point l1 on a line segment lg2, and forming a back curve line of the rear garment piece by using smooth curve connecting points b, k1, k3 and l1, wherein the length of a back straight open neck line segment ab is 0.042X type cm, the length of a back width falling line segment bk is 0.142X type, the length of a middle waist line segment bk2 is 0.286X type cm, the length of a back width curve line segment kk1 is 0.025X type cm, the length of a middle waist curve line segment k2k3 is 0.066X type cm, and the length of a lower waist curve line segment 1 is 0.099X type cm;

taking a point a as a vertical line segment aa3, taking a point a2 on a line segment aa3, taking a point a1 on a line segment aa2 as a vertical line a1l2, and connecting points a2, l2 and b by smooth curves to form a neckline curvature line of the rear garment piece, wherein the length of a rear shoulder width horizontal line segment aa3 is 0.242 x type cm, the length of a rear collar width line segment aa2 is 0.077 x type cm, the length of a line segment a1a2 is one third of a rear collar width line segment aa2, and the length of a rear collar lower line segment a1l2 is 0.03 x type cm;

a point a3 is taken as a vertical line segment a3b1, a straight line connecting point a2b1, points b2, b3 and b5 are respectively taken on a shoulder line a2b1, a point b5 is taken as a vertical line segment b5b4, and straight line connections b2, b3 and b4 form a dart, wherein the length of a rear garment shoulder line segment a3b1 is 0.028 multiplied by type cm, the length of a line segment a2b5 is 0.056 multiplied by type cm, the length of a dart center line segment b5b4 is 0.056 multiplied by type, and the lengths of a line segment b5b2 and a line segment b5b3 are 0.009 multiplied by type cm;

the straight line is connected with b1h to form an armhole basic line segment, a point r is taken on the line segment b1h to be used as a vertical line segment rh2, and smooth curve connecting points b1, h2 and h are used to form a smooth curve of the armhole of the rear garment piece, wherein the length of the line segment rh is one third of the length of the line segment b1h, and the length of the line segment rh2 is 0.046 multiplied by type cm;

taking a point g as a vertical line segment gf4, a point f4 as a vertical line segment f4f1, a point f1 as a vertical line segment f1e1, a point e1 as a vertical line segment e1e2, a point f3 on a line segment f4f1, a point f2 on a line segment f1e1, a straight line connected with f2f3, a curvature point at the midpoint of the line segment f2f3, a smooth curve connecting point f2, a curvature point and f3 to form a connecting outer opening smooth curve, a connecting line consisting of points e2, f2, 0.2, f3 and g, wherein the length of a connecting wide line segment gf4 is 0.052 × type cm, the length of a connecting height line segment f4f1 is 0.113 × type cm, the length of a connecting upper line segment f1e1 is 0.104 × type cm, the length of a front neck line segment end point f2 is 0.005 × type cm, the length of a front neck line segment f3 × 3cm, the length of a connecting height segment f 36045 × 3 is 0.03 × type cm, and the curvature point f2 is 2 cm;

taking a point l3 on a line segment f1e1 as a vertical line segment l3d, taking points f and e on a line segment l3d, taking the point f as a vertical line segment fe3, using smooth curve connecting points e, e3 and e2 to form a collar lower collar line, taking a point d as a vertical line segment dd1, connecting a straight line d1e to form a collar center line, taking a point d1 as a vertical line segment d1d2 of the d1e to form a collar lower outer collar, and forming collar lower collars by the points d2, d1, e3 and e 2; a point g1 is taken on a line segment g2g as a vertical line segment g1g4, a straight line is connected with d2g4 to form a normal line, a collar inserting upper collar structure is drawn according to a collar down collar by taking the normal line d2g4 as a symmetry axis, the collar inserting upper collar consists of points d2, c4, c3 and c2, points c4, c3 and c2 are respectively symmetrical to points d1, d and e2, wherein the length of a line segment f1l3 is 0.033 x type cm, the length of a line segment l3d is 0.111 x type cm, the lengths of the line segments l3f and fe are 0.029 x type cm, the length of a line segment fe3 is 0.042 x type cm, the length of a line segment dd1 is 0.028 x type cm, the length of the line segment d1d2 is 0.104 x type cm, the length of a distance height distance segment g1g2 is 0.21 x 4 cm, and the length of the line segment g 1x 4 is 0.158 cm;

a point c2 is used as a lg2 parallel line segment c2c1, a point c1 is used as a vertical line segment c1c, the straight line is connected with the ch, a point r1 is taken on the line segment ch as a vertical line segment r1h1, and smooth curve connecting points c, h1 and h form an arm hole structure of a front garment piece, wherein the length of the line segment c2c1 is 0.128 multiplied by type cm, the length of a front shoulder falling line segment c1c is 0.067 multiplied by type cm, the length of the line segment r1h is one third of that of the line segment ch, and the length of the line segment r1h1 is 0.057 multiplied by type cm;

the front and rear body panel combination structure is composed of points b, k1, k3, l1, h3, g3, g, f3, 0.2, f2, e2, e3, e, d1, d2, c4, c3, c2, c, h1, h2, b1, a2 and l 2;

2) skirt piece template drawing

Drawing a line segment m2m horizontally, taking a point m2 as a vertical line segment m2v3, taking points m3 and m4 on the line segment m2m, respectively taking vertical line segments m3n and m4n1, and connecting the points m, n1 and n by smooth curves to form a waist-side sealing structure; connecting nv3 with a straight line, respectively taking points v2, v1, v and n2 on the line segment nv3, making vertical line segments v2p2, v1p1, vp and n2n3, and connecting the points n, n3, p1, p2 and v3 with smooth curves to form a skirt waist opening structure; taking a point w2 as a vertical line segment w2y, taking a point w1 on a line segment mw2, taking a midpoint z1 on the line segment w2y as a vertical line segment z1z, and using smooth curve connecting points w1, z and y to form a skirt bottom opening structure, wherein the skirt piece structure is formed by points m, w1, z, y, v3, p2, p1, p, n3, n and n 1; the length of a skirt piece upper opening width line segment m2m is 0.41 multiplied by type cm, the length of a skirt sleeve common line segment mw2 is 0.86 multiplied by type cm, the length of a skirt waist measurement line segment m2v3 is 0.173 multiplied by type cm, the length of a line segment m2m3 is 0.24 multiplied by type cm, the length of a line segment m3m4 is 0.087 multiplied by type cm, the length of a line segment m3n is 0.036 multiplied by type cm, the length of a line segment m4n1 is 0.011 multiplied by type cm, the lengths of line segments v3v2 and nn2 are 0.072 multiplied by type cm, the lengths of line segments v2v1 and n2n v are 0.034 multiplied by type cm, the lengths of line segments v2p2 and n2n3 are 0.034 multiplied by type cm, the lengths of line segments v1p1 and vp are 0.044 multiplied by type cm, the skirt bottom pendulum width is 0.285 multiplied by type 3985 cm, and the length of a pendulum bottom is 0.022 type 1 cm;

3) sleeve template drawing

Drawing a vertical line segment m1x2 by extending m2m to a point m1, drawing points o, o1, o2 and o3 on the line segment m1x2, drawing vertical line segments oi, o1i1, o2i2 and o3i3, connecting points m, i1, i2, i3 and x2 by smooth curves to form a sleeve structure, drawing line segments m1x2 to q2, drawing a point q on the line segment m1q2 to form a vertical line segment qq1, drawing a point q2 to form a vertical line segment q2q3, and crossing the extended line segment q2q3 and a line segment mw2 at a point s1, wherein the sleeve structure consists of points m, i1, i2, i3, x2, q1, q3 and s 1; the length of a flat width line segment m2m1 on the skirt sleeve is 0.64 multiplied by type cm, the length of a sleeve hill deep line segment m1x2 is 0.205 multiplied by type cm, the length of a line segment m1o is 0.046 multiplied by type cm, the lengths of a line segment oo1 and a line segment o2o3 are 0.022 multiplied by type cm, the length of an m1o2 is 0.134 multiplied by type cm, the length of a line segment oi is 0.106 multiplied by type cm, the length of a line segment o1i1 is 0.097 multiplied by type cm, the length of a line segment o2i2 is 0.076 multiplied by type cm, the length of a line segment o3i3 is 0.063 multiplied by type cm, the length of a sleeve elbow distance line segment x2q is 0.214 multiplied by type cm, the length of an elbow incoming line segment qq1 is 0.05 multiplied by type cm, the length of a cuff incoming line segment q2q3 is 0.078 multiplied by type cm, and the length of a line segment 1 and a line segment m1x2 is 0.5925 cm;

4) drawing of back collar piece sample plate

Drawing a rectangle s1us3s by using a point a1, respectively taking points y1 and t2 on line segments s1u and ss3, connecting a line segment t2y1 and extending to the point t, extending a line segment s3u to the point s2, and connecting points s2, t and s1 by smooth curves to form a rear collar outer opening structure, wherein the rear collar structure is formed by points s1, t, s2, s3 and s; wherein, the lengths of the long line segments s1u and ss3 of the rectangle are 0.095X type cm, the lengths of the short line segments s1s and us3 of the rectangle are 0.048X type cm, the lengths of the line segments t2s3 and y1u of the long line segments s1u or ss3 of the rectangle are one third, the length of the line segment y1t of the rectangle is 0.3cm, and the length of the line segment us2 of the line segment is 0.8 cm;

5) collar base template drawing

Drawing a rectangle ss3u1w by using a line segment ss3, drawing a vertical line segment t2u2 by using a point t2, drawing a vertical line segment xx1 by using a point x on wu1, taking a midpoint t1 in a line segment s3u1, forming an upper edge structure of a collar-inserting base by using smooth curve connection points t1, u2 and s, forming a lower edge structure of the collar-inserting base by using smooth curve connection points t1, x1 and w, wherein the collar-inserting base structure is formed by using points s, u2, t1, x1 and w; wherein, the lengths of the short-side line segments sw and s3u1 are 0.024 multiplied by type cm, the length of the line segment xu1 is one third of that of the long-side line segment wu1 or ss3 of the rectangle, and the lengths of the curvedness line segments t2u2 and xx1 are 0.004 multiplied by type cm;

6) drawing for angle model

A triangle formed by the connecting point u1w2 and the points u1, w2 and w is a corner structure;

7) folding the cloth and respectively cutting sleeve pieces, skirt pieces, rear collar pieces, collar inserting bases and lapel hair sample plates according to the net sample plates in the steps 1) to 6);

the fine dried noodle cutting is to butt joint a back collar piece collar butt joint line section s2s3 with a garment piece connecting butt joint line section e2f2 to form a fine dried noodle upper collar portion structure formed by points s3, s1, s2, f3 and g, a 4.0 cm vertical line section is formed by extending a line section gg3 to a position 20 cm in length, and the point formed by 4.0 cm is connected with the point s3 to complete fine dried noodle drawing.

2. The dart-drop collar type suit-dress tailoring method of claim 1 wherein the sewing process of the garment pieces comprises back shoulder dart sewing, lapel sewing, drop collar sewing, back collar piece and drop collar base sewing:

the sewing of the back shoulder dart is to fold the triangular structure of the back shoulder dart in half on the hair sample plate for sewing;

the inserting and sewing process of the barge corner is characterized in that a shearing opening is formed in a line segment d2g4 in an upward and downward mode, the length of the shearing opening is equal to the length of a line segment u1w2, the barge corner is inserted into the shearing opening, and a first side of the barge corner and a second side of the barge corner are sewn on two sides of the shearing opening respectively;

correspondingly sewing the back center lines of the upper collar and the lower collar of the collar insert of the left garment piece and the right garment piece, and sewing the collar insert outer port lines of the upper collar and the lower collar of the left garment piece and the right garment piece respectively;

sewing the upper smooth curve of the collar inserting base with the lower collar inserting port line, and sewing the shoulder seams and the back center lines of the front garment piece and the rear garment piece;

sewing the lower smooth curve of the collar inserting base with a rear collar line, wherein the sewing comprises three layers of cloth of the collar inserting base and a rear garment piece;

and sewing the back collar piece, sewing the butt joint line connecting the neck side line and the back collar piece, and sewing the collar stitching line of the back collar piece and the back collar opening line again.

3. The dart-collar female dress cutting method according to claim 1, wherein the skirt piece is folded along its central axis mw1, the pleat is folded into a wave structure after being turned over according to the skirt piece layer pleat line segments v2p2, v1p1, vp and n2n3 by stitching and fixing the stitches;

folding the sleeve piece along the central axis ms1 of the skirt piece, kneading, fixing and sewing according to the sleeve piece layer pleat line segments oi, o1i1, o2i2 and o3i3, sewing the curve my2, and forming a layer wave structure by the pleats after turning;

the fine dried noodles are aligned with the front skirt piece collar outer opening line, the collar head connecting line and the front fly line and are sewn together by adding a zipper.

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the technical field of women's dresses, and particularly relates to a provincial road collar inserting type women's dress tailoring method.

Background

At present, the design of the structure and shape of the dart collar-inserting type women's dress is rare in the clothing market, and from the aspect of the tailoring method of women's dress, most clothing enterprises adopt the tailoring of front and back garment pieces, front and back skirt pieces, sleeve pieces and collars thereof as a separated tailoring method. Therefore, the cutting process is various, the cut pieces are disordered, the needed templates for cutting are more, the cloth is not saved, and the production cost is high. The traditional lapel design adopts a cutting method matched with the neckline in position, which is not beneficial to the change of the lapel shape. Most of the traditional sleeve top creases are designed into bubble crease shapes, which is not beneficial to the change of the creases on the sleeve tops. Similarly, the traditional skirt pleat design is single, and the innovation of the pleat is not fully exerted. In the aspect of cutting and typesetting, the traditional women dress cutting cannot intensively arrange structure drawing, so that typesetting is not tight enough, and cloth waste is caused. In the aspect of sewing, the traditional women dress sewing procedures are multiple, the operation difficulty is high, and more stations and airplane stations are needed to finish the bottleneck procedure.

Disclosure of Invention

In order to solve the problems, the invention provides the provincial road collar inserting type suit-dress tailoring method which can effectively achieve the improvement of the suit-dress shape and the tailoring efficiency and is worth popularizing.

In order to realize the technical purpose of the invention, the invention specifically adopts the following technical scheme:

a dart road collar inserting type suit-dress tailoring method comprises the following steps:

1) front and rear garment piece sample drawing

Drawing a back middle line segment al, taking a point a as a vertical line segment lg2, taking a point g2 as a vertical line segment g2g, taking a point h4 on the line segment lg2, and taking a point h4 as a vertical line segment h4h, wherein the length of the back middle line segment al is 0.247 multiplied by type cm, the length of a waist line segment lg2 is 0.641 multiplied by type cm, the length of a front door flap line segment g2g is 0.194 multiplied by type cm, and the length of a front side seam line segment h4h is 0.235 multiplied by type cm;

respectively taking points b, k and k2 on a line segment al, respectively taking points k and k2 as vertical line segments kk1 and k2k3, respectively taking a point l1 on a line segment lg2, and forming a back curve line of the rear garment piece by using smooth curve connecting points b, k1, k3 and l1, wherein the length of a back straight open neck line segment ab is 0.042X type cm, the length of a back width falling line segment bk is 0.142X type, the length of a middle waist line segment bk2 is 0.286X type cm, the length of a back width curve line segment kk1 is 0.025X type cm, the length of a middle waist curve line segment k2k3 is 0.066X type cm, and the length of a lower waist curve line segment 1 is 0.099X type cm;

taking a point a as a vertical line segment aa3, taking a point a2 on a line segment aa3, taking a point a1 on a line segment aa2 as a vertical line a1l2, and connecting points a2, l2 and b by smooth curves to form a neckline curvature line of the rear garment piece, wherein the length of a rear shoulder width horizontal line segment aa3 is 0.242 x type cm, the length of a rear collar width line segment aa2 is 0.077 x type cm, the length of a line segment a1a2 is one third of a rear collar width line segment aa2, and the length of a rear collar lower line segment a1l2 is 0.03 x type cm;

a point a3 is taken as a vertical line segment a3b1, a straight line connecting point a2b1, points b2, b3 and b5 are respectively taken on a shoulder line a2b1, a point b5 is taken as a vertical line segment b5b4, and straight line connections b2, b3 and b4 form a dart, wherein the length of a rear garment shoulder line segment a3b1 is 0.028 multiplied by type cm, the length of a line segment a2b5 is 0.056 multiplied by type cm, the length of a dart center line segment b5b4 is 0.056 multiplied by type, and the lengths of a line segment b5b2 and a line segment b5b3 are 0.009 multiplied by type cm;

the straight line is connected with b1h to form an armhole basic line segment, a point r is taken on the line segment b1h to be used as a vertical line segment rh2, and smooth curve connecting points b1, h2 and h are used to form a smooth curve of the armhole of the rear garment piece, wherein the length of the line segment rh is one third of the length of the line segment b1h, and the length of the line segment rh2 is 0.046 multiplied by type cm;

taking a point g as a vertical line segment gf4, a point f4 as a vertical line segment f4f1, a point f1 as a vertical line segment f1e1, a point e1 as a vertical line segment e1e2, a point f3 on a line segment f4f1, a point f2 on a line segment f1e1, a straight line connected with f2f3, a curvature point at the midpoint of the line segment f2f3, a smooth curve connecting point f2, a curvature point and f3 to form a connecting outer opening smooth curve, a connecting line consisting of points e2, f2, 0.2, f3 and g, wherein the length of a connecting wide line segment gf4 is 0.052 × type cm, the length of a connecting height line segment f4f1 is 0.113 × type cm, the length of a connecting upper line segment f1e1 is 0.104 × type cm, the length of a front neck line segment end point f2 is 0.005 × type cm, the length of a front neck line segment f3 × 3cm, the length of a connecting height segment f 36045 × 3 is 0.03 × type cm, and the curvature point f2 is 2 cm;

taking a point l3 on a line segment f1e1 as a vertical line segment l3d, taking points f and e on a line segment l3d, taking the point f as a vertical line segment fe3, using smooth curve connecting points e, e3 and e2 to form a collar lower collar line, taking a point d as a vertical line segment dd1, connecting a straight line d1e to form a collar center line, taking a point d1 as a vertical line segment d1d2 of the d1e to form a collar lower outer collar, and forming collar lower collars by the points d2, d1, e3 and e 2; a point g1 is taken on a line segment g2g as a vertical line segment g1g4, a straight line is connected with d2g4 to form a normal line, a collar inserting upper collar structure is drawn according to a collar down collar by taking the normal line d2g4 as a symmetry axis, the collar inserting upper collar consists of points d2, c4, c3 and c2, points c4, c3 and c2 are respectively symmetrical to points d1, d and e2, wherein the length of a line segment f1l3 is 0.033 x type cm, the length of a line segment l3d is 0.111 x type cm, the lengths of the line segments l3f and fe are 0.029 x type cm, the length of a line segment fe3 is 0.042 x type cm, the length of a line segment dd1 is 0.028 x type cm, the length of the line segment d1d2 is 0.104 x type cm, the length of a distance height distance segment g1g2 is 0.21 x 4 cm, and the length of the line segment g 1x 4 is 0.158 cm;

a point c2 is used as a lg2 parallel line segment c2c1, a point c1 is used as a vertical line segment c1c, the straight line is connected with the ch, a point r1 is taken on the line segment ch as a vertical line segment r1h1, and smooth curve connecting points c, h1 and h form an arm hole structure of a front garment piece, wherein the length of the line segment c2c1 is 0.128 multiplied by type cm, the length of a front shoulder falling line segment c1c is 0.067 multiplied by type cm, the length of the line segment r1h is one third of that of the line segment ch, and the length of the line segment r1h1 is 0.057 multiplied by type cm;

the front and rear body panel combination structure is composed of points b, k1, k3, l1, h3, g3, g, f3, 0.2, f2, e2, e3, e, d1, d2, c4, c3, c2, c, h1, h2, b1, a2 and l 2;

2) skirt piece template drawing

Drawing a line segment m2m horizontally, taking a point m2 as a vertical line segment m2v3, taking points m3 and m4 on the line segment m2m, respectively taking vertical line segments m3n and m4n1, and connecting the points m, n1 and n by smooth curves to form a waist-side sealing structure; connecting nv3 with a straight line, respectively taking points v2, v1, v and n2 on the line segment nv3, making vertical line segments v2p2, v1p1, vp and n2n3, and connecting the points n, n3, p1, p2 and v3 with smooth curves to form a skirt waist opening structure; taking a point w2 as a vertical line segment w2y, taking a point w1 on a line segment mw2, taking a midpoint z1 on the line segment w2y as a vertical line segment z1z, and using smooth curve connecting points w1, z and y to form a skirt bottom opening structure, wherein the skirt piece structure is formed by points m, w1, z, y, v3, p2, p1, p, n3, n and n 1; the length of a skirt piece upper opening width line segment m2m is 0.41 multiplied by type cm, the length of a skirt sleeve common line segment mw2 is 0.86 multiplied by type cm, the length of a skirt waist measurement line segment m2v3 is 0.173 multiplied by type cm, the length of a line segment m2m3 is 0.24 multiplied by type cm, the length of a line segment m3m4 is 0.087 multiplied by type cm, the length of a line segment m3n is 0.036 multiplied by type cm, the length of a line segment m4n1 is 0.011 multiplied by type cm, the lengths of line segments v3v2 and nn2 are 0.072 multiplied by type cm, the lengths of line segments v2v1 and n2n v are 0.034 multiplied by type cm, the lengths of line segments v2p2 and n2n3 are 0.034 multiplied by type cm, the lengths of line segments v1p1 and vp are 0.044 multiplied by type cm, the skirt bottom pendulum width is 0.285 multiplied by type 3985 cm, and the length of a pendulum bottom is 0.022 type 1 cm;

3) sleeve template drawing

Drawing a vertical line segment m1x2 by extending m2m to a point m1, drawing points o, o1, o2 and o3 on the line segment m1x2, drawing vertical line segments oi, o1i1, o2i2 and o3i3, connecting points m, i1, i2, i3 and x2 by smooth curves to form a sleeve structure, drawing line segments m1x2 to q2, drawing a point q on the line segment m1q2 to form a vertical line segment qq1, drawing a point q2 to form a vertical line segment q2q3, and crossing the extended line segment q2q3 and a line segment mw2 at a point s1, wherein the sleeve structure consists of points m, i1, i2, i3, x2, q1, q3 and s 1; the length of a flat width line segment m2m1 on the skirt sleeve is 0.64 multiplied by type cm, the length of a sleeve hill deep line segment m1x2 is 0.205 multiplied by type cm, the length of a line segment m1o is 0.046 multiplied by type cm, the lengths of a line segment oo1 and a line segment o2o3 are 0.022 multiplied by type cm, the length of an m1o2 is 0.134 multiplied by type cm, the length of a line segment oi is 0.106 multiplied by type cm, the length of a line segment o1i1 is 0.097 multiplied by type cm, the length of a line segment o2i2 is 0.076 multiplied by type cm, the length of a line segment o3i3 is 0.063 multiplied by type cm, the length of a sleeve elbow distance line segment x2q is 0.214 multiplied by type cm, the length of an elbow incoming line segment qq1 is 0.05 multiplied by type cm, the length of a cuff incoming line segment q2q3 is 0.078 multiplied by type cm, and the length of a line segment 1 and a line segment m1x2 is 0.5925 cm;

4) drawing of back collar piece sample plate

Drawing a rectangle s1us3s by using a point a1, respectively taking points y1 and t2 on line segments s1u and ss3, connecting a line segment t2y1 and extending to the point t, extending a line segment s3u to the point s2, and connecting points s2, t and s1 by smooth curves to form a rear collar outer opening structure, wherein the rear collar structure is formed by points s1, t, s2, s3 and s; wherein, the lengths of the long line segments s1u and ss3 of the rectangle are 0.095X type cm, the lengths of the short line segments s1s and us3 of the rectangle are 0.048X type cm, the lengths of the line segments t2s3 and y1u of the long line segments s1u or ss3 of the rectangle are one third, the length of the line segment y1t of the rectangle is 0.3cm, and the length of the line segment us2 of the line segment is 0.8 cm;

5) collar base template drawing

Drawing a rectangle ss3u1w by using a line segment ss3, drawing a vertical line segment t2u2 by using a point t2, drawing a vertical line segment xx1 by using a point x on wu1, taking a midpoint t1 in a line segment s3u1, forming an upper edge structure of a collar-inserting base by using smooth curve connection points t1, u2 and s, forming a lower edge structure of the collar-inserting base by using smooth curve connection points t1, x1 and w, wherein the collar-inserting base structure is formed by using points s, u2, t1, x1 and w; wherein, the lengths of the short-side line segments sw and s3u1 are 0.024 multiplied by type cm, the length of the line segment xu1 is one third of that of the long-side line segment wu1 or ss3 of the rectangle, and the lengths of the curvedness line segments t2u2 and xx1 are 0.004 multiplied by type cm;

6) drawing for angle model

A triangle formed by the connecting point u1w2 and the points u1, w2 and w is a corner structure;

7) folding the cloth and respectively cutting sleeve pieces, skirt pieces, rear collar pieces, collar inserting bases and lapel hair sample plates according to the net sample plates in the steps 1) to 6);

the fine dried noodle cutting is to butt joint a rear collar piece collar butt joint line section s2s3 with a connection butt joint line section e2f2 of a garment piece to form a fine dried noodle upper collar part structure formed by points s3, s1, s2, f3 and g, a 4.0 cm vertical line section is formed by extending a line section gg3 to a position of 20 cm, and the point formed by 4.0 cm is connected with s3 to complete fine dried noodle drawing;

8) the sewing process of the garment piece comprises sewing of a back shoulder dart, sewing of a lapel, sewing of a collar insert, and sewing of a back collar piece and a collar insert base;

the sewing of the back shoulder dart is to fold the triangular structure of the back shoulder dart in half on the hair sample plate for sewing;

the inserting and sewing process of the barge corner is characterized in that a shearing opening is formed in a line segment d2g4 in an upward and downward mode, the length of the shearing opening is equal to the length of a line segment u1w2, the barge corner is inserted into the shearing opening, and a first side of the barge corner and a second side of the barge corner are sewn on two sides of the shearing opening respectively;

correspondingly sewing the back center lines of the upper collar and the lower collar of the collar insert of the left garment piece and the right garment piece, and sewing the collar insert outer port lines of the upper collar and the lower collar of the left garment piece and the right garment piece respectively;

sewing the upper smooth curve of the collar inserting base with the lower collar inserting port line, and sewing the shoulder seams and the back center lines of the front garment piece and the rear garment piece;

sewing the lower smooth curve of the collar inserting base with a rear collar line, wherein the sewing comprises three layers of cloth of the collar inserting base and a rear garment piece;

sewing the back collar piece, sewing the butt joint line connecting the neck side line and the back collar piece, and sewing the collar stitching line of the back collar piece and the back collar line again;

9) folding the skirt piece along the central axis mw1 of the skirt piece, kneading, fixing and sewing according to skirt piece layer pleat line segments v2p2, v1p1, vp and n2n3, sewing a curve mn, and forming a layer wave structure by the pleat after turning over;

folding the sleeve piece along the central axis ms1 of the skirt piece, kneading, fixing and sewing according to the sleeve piece layer pleat line segments oi, o1i1, o2i2 and o3i3, sewing the curve my2, and forming a layer wave structure by the pleats after turning;

the fine dried noodles are aligned with the front skirt piece collar outer opening line, the collar head connecting line and the front fly line and are sewn together by adding a zipper.

The invention has the beneficial effects that:

compared with the traditional collar, dart way and layer pleat cutting, the cutting of the dart way collar inserting type suit-dress belongs to a new cutting method, and comprises a cutting method of front and back garment pieces, sleeve pieces, skirt pieces, a back collar piece, a collar inserting base, fine dried noodles and lapel angles. The front and back garment pieces belong to a cutting method of a fit structure, and the front and back garment pieces comprise collar inserting and collar connecting structures. The sleeve sheet belongs to a cutting method of a one-piece sleeve structure, and the sleeve mountain is provided with a cutting of layer wave folds. The skirt piece belongs to the front and back body skirt pieces and is of a fit structure, and the outer side of the skirt piece is provided with a layer of wave pleat cutting. The back collar piece belongs to the cutting of the independent structure and is sewn with the front garment piece to form the integral shape of the stand collar of the clothes. The collar inserting base belongs to cutting of an independent structure and is sewn with the collar in the front garment piece to form an integral shape of the dart collar of the garment. The fine dried noodles are copied and cut after the back collar piece is matched with the front garment piece in a linking mode, and are 20 cm long on the basis of the garment pieces and used for sewing the stand collar and installing the zipper. The lapel angle belongs to an independent structure cutting, and is used for matching and sewing with the collar inserting cut-out 3 of the garment piece. In addition, the invention is a technical scheme for integrating and researching the province road and the collar of the women, and is a novel modeling cutting method with unified province road and collar structure technologies, and the scheme is worthy of popularization.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a schematic view of the construction of a panel of the present invention;

FIG. 2 is a schematic structural view of a skirt panel, a sleeve panel, a rear collar panel, a collar inserting base and a lapel angle of the present invention;

FIG. 3 is a schematic structural view of a garment piece, a skirt piece, a sleeve piece, a rear collar piece, a collar inserting base and a lapel net sample plate of the invention;

FIG. 4 is a schematic diagram of the structure of the cut pieces and skirt pieces wool sample plates of the invention;

FIG. 5 is a schematic diagram of the structure of the sleeve panel, the rear collar panel, the collar inserting base and the lapel hair style plate of the present invention;

FIG. 6 is a schematic view of the line name structure of the cut pieces and skirt pieces of the present invention;

FIG. 7 is a schematic view showing the name structures of the sleeve panel, the back collar panel, the collar inserting base and the lapel line of the present invention;

FIG. 8 is a schematic view of the cutting of the dried noodles of the present invention;

FIG. 9 is a schematic view of the manufacture of a barge angle according to the invention;

FIG. 10 is a schematic view of the collar base of the present invention;

FIG. 11 is a schematic view of a cut piece collar of the present invention;

FIG. 12 is a schematic view of the collar base of the present invention;

FIG. 13 is a schematic view of a back collar piece and collar base-mounted collar making process of the present invention;

FIG. 14 is a schematic illustration of the manufacture of a skirt piece according to the invention;

FIG. 15 is a schematic diagram of a sleeve of the present invention;

FIG. 16 is a schematic view of a suture made in accordance with the present invention;

fig. 17 is a schematic view of the appearance of the present invention.

Detailed Description

The technical solutions of the present invention will be described clearly and completely with reference to specific embodiments of the present invention, and it should be understood that the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all of the embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.

The invention provides a dart-inserting collar type suit-dress cutting method, which comprises a front garment piece, a rear garment piece, sleeve pieces, skirt pieces, a rear collar piece, a collar inserting base, fine dried noodles and a lapel cutting method. The front and back garment pieces belong to a cutting method of a fit structure, and the front and back garment pieces comprise collar inserting and collar connecting structures. The sleeve sheet belongs to a cutting method of a one-piece sleeve structure, and the sleeve mountain is provided with a cutting of layer wave folds. The skirt piece belongs to the front and back body skirt pieces and is of a fit structure, and the outer side of the skirt piece is provided with a layer of wave pleat cutting. The back collar piece belongs to the cutting of the independent structure and is sewn with the front garment piece to form the integral shape of the stand collar of the clothes. The collar inserting base belongs to cutting of an independent structure and is sewn with the collar in the front garment piece to form an integral shape of the dart collar of the garment. The fine dried noodles are copied and cut after the back collar piece is matched with the front garment piece in a linking mode, and are 20 cm long on the basis of the garment pieces and used for sewing the stand collar and installing the zipper. The lapel angle belongs to an independent structure cutting, and is used for matching and sewing with the collar inserting cut-out 3 of the garment piece. In addition, the invention is a technical scheme for integrating and researching the province road and the collar of the women, and is a novel modeling cutting method with unified province road and collar structure technologies, and the scheme is worthy of popularization.

As shown in figure 1, the cut pieces, the skirt pieces, the sleeve pieces, the back collar pieces, the collar inserting base and the lapel structure are drawn. Drawing the garment piece, wherein a back middle line segment al is 39.52 cm, and a waist line segment lg2 is 53.844 cm. The front fly line segment g2g is 31.04 cm, the rear waist line segment lh4 is 26.124 cm, the front and rear side seam line segment h4h is 19.74 cm, and the rear straight collar line segment ab is 3.528 cm. The back width line bk is 11.928 cm, the back width curvature line kk1 is 2.1 cm, the middle waist line bk2 is 24.024 cm, the middle waist curvature line k2k3 is 5.544 cm, the lower waist curvature line ll1 is 8.316 cm, and the back curvature line of the rear panel is formed by connecting points b, k1, k3 and l1 with smooth curves respectively. The rear shoulder width horizontal line segment aa3 is 20.328 cm, the rear collar width line segment aa2 is 6.468 cm, the rear collar lower line segment a1l2 is 2.52 cm, and the line segment a1l2 is located at the right third of the rear collar width line segment aa2 and is vertical. The back garment piece neckline curvature line is formed by connecting points a2, l2 and b with smooth curves respectively. The rear panel shoulder line segment a3b1 is 2.352 cm, and a straight line connecting point a2b1 forms a rear shoulder diagonal line. A rear shoulder dart is drawn at the shoulder line a2b1, the line segment a2b5 is 4.704 cm, the dart center line segment b5b4 is 5.964 cm, and the line segment b5b4 is perpendicular to the shoulder line a2b 1. The shoulder dart road width line segment b5b2 ═ b5b3 ═ 0.756 cm, and the straight lines respectively connect the points b2, b4, and b3 to form a triangle, which is the dart road structure. Drawing smooth armhole curves of the back cut piece, forming an armhole basic line segment by using straight line connecting points b1 and h, setting trisection on a b1h line segment, drawing a vertical line segment rh2 at the lower third, wherein the line segment rh2 is 3.864 centimeters, and respectively connecting points b1, h2 and h by using smooth curves to form the smooth armhole curves of the back cut piece. The front cut piece is drawn in a linking mode, a linking width outlet line section gf4 is set to be 4.368 cm, and a line section gf4 is perpendicular to a line section g2 g. The tie height line f4f1 is 9.492 cm, and the line f4f1 is perpendicular to the line gf 4. The upper tie line segment f1e1 is set to 8.736 cm, and the line segment f1e1 is perpendicular to the line segment f4f 1. The front neck landing line segment e1e2 is 0.42 cm, and line segment e1e2 is perpendicular to line segment f1e 1. The line segment f4f3 is 2.52 cm, the line segment f1f2 is 3.78 cm, the constant vertical curvature at the midpoint of the line segment f2f3 is 0.2cm, and a smooth curve connecting point f2, the curvature of 0.2 and the curvature of f3 form a smooth curve connecting the outer opening of the collar. The link is formed by points e2, f2, 0.2, f3, g. For the tab drawing, the line l3d is perpendicular to the line e1f1, the line l3d is 9.324 cm, and the line f1l3 is 2.772 cm. The line segment l3f is 2.436 cm, the line segment fe3 is 3.528 cm, and the tuck neckline is formed by smooth curve connection points e, e3 and e 2. The line segment ed is 4.452 cm, the line segment dd1 is perpendicular to the line segment dl3, the line segment dd1 is 2.352 cm, the connecting points d1 and e form a collar-inserting central line, and the line segment d1d2 is perpendicular to the line segment d1e to form a collar-inserting outer opening structure. The line segment d1d2 is 8.736 cm, the chest height distance line segment g1g2 is 17.64 cm, the line segment g1g4 (the point g4 is the chest height point) is perpendicular to the line segment gg2, and the line segment g1g4 is 13.272 cm. The straight line connecting points d2 and g4 form a normal line, the line segment inserting collar used for symmetrically drawing the inserting collar is composed of an upper collar structure and a lower collar structure, and the upper collar structure and the lower collar structure are the same. The top pint structure is composed of points d2, d1, e3, e2, and the bottom pint structure is a symmetrical copy of the top pint structure along the "normal" to the left and produces points c4, c3, c 2. The horizontal line segment c2c1 made at the point c2 is used as a front garment shoulder width line segment, the line segment c2c1 is 10.752 cm, the front shoulder line segment c1c is perpendicular to the line segment c1c2, the line segment c1c is 5.628 cm, the line segment c and the line segment h are connected by straight lines, a rightward vertical line segment r1h1 is made at the lower third of the line segment ch, and the line segment r1h1 is 4.788 cm. The smooth curve connecting points c, h1 and h form the armhole structure of the front cut piece. The front and rear panel combination structure is formed by points b, k1, k3, l1, h3, g3, g, f3, 0.2, f2, e2, e3, e, d1, d2, c4, c3, c2, c, h1, h2, b1, a2 and l 2.

The skirt pieces are drawn as shown in fig. 2. The skirt sleeve upper flat width line segment m2m1 is 53.76 cm, the skirt piece upper mouth width line segment m2m is measured on the basis of the line segment m2m1, the line segment m2m is 34.44 cm, the vertical line segment mw2 of the line segment m2m1 drawn by the point m is a skirt sleeve common line, and the line segment mw2 is 72.24 cm. A vertical line segment m2v3 of a line segment m2m1 drawn by a point m2 is used as the amount of the under-skirt-waist, the line segment m2v3 is 14.532 cm, the skirt layer pleat determination line segment m2m3 is 20.16 cm, the line segment m3n vertical to m2m1 is 3.024 cm, the line segment m3m4 is 7.308 cm, and the line segment m4n1 is 0.924 cm. The waist sealing structure is formed by connecting points m, n1 and n with smooth curves. Two skirt layer fold width measurements are plotted at line nv3 using straight line connecting points n, v 3. Skirt layer pleat auxiliary line segments v2p2, v1p1, vp and n2n3 are all perpendicular to nv3, a margin line segment v3v2 is nnn 2 is 6.048 cm, a skirt layer pleat width line segment v2v1 is n2v is 2.856 cm, a layer pleat first vertical line segment v2p2 is n2n3 is 2.856 cm, a layer pleat second vertical line segment v1p1 is vp 3.696 cm, and smooth curves are respectively connected with the points n, n3, p1, p2 and v3 to form a skirt waist opening structure. The skirt hem width line segment w2y is set to 23.94 cm. The skirt bottom swing line segment w2w1 is 2.688 cm, the line segment z1z is positioned at one half of the line segment w2y and is vertical to the line segment w2w y, the line segment z1z is 1.848 cm, and the smooth curve connecting points w1, z and y form a skirt bottom opening structure. The skirt structure is composed of points m, w1, z, y, v3, p2, p1, p, n3, n 1.

Drawing sleeve sheets. The sleeve hill depth line segment m1x2 is perpendicular to the line segment m2m1, the line segment m1x2 is 17.22 cm, points o, o1, o2 and o3 are taken on the line segment m1x2, perpendicular line segments oi, o1i1, o2i2 and o3i3 are drawn, the sleeve hill layer fold auxiliary line segments oi, o1i1, o2i2 and o3i3 are perpendicular to the line segment m1x2 respectively, the line segment m1o is 3.864 cm, and the line segment m1o2 is 11.256 cm. The line segment oi is 8.904 cm, the line segment oo1 is o2o3 is 1.848 cm, the line segment o1i1 is 8.148 cm, the line segment o2i2 is 6.384 cm, and the line segment o3i3 is 5.292 cm. The sleeve cap structure is formed by connecting points m, i1, i2, i3 and x2 with smooth curves respectively, and 4.0 cm (constant value) is measured at the point m along the leftward direction of the sleeve cap structure to serve as a seal amount for manufacturing the layer fold model. The elbow distance line segment x2q is 17.976 cm, the elbow approach line segment qq1 is 4.2 cm, the cuff approach line segment q2q3 is 6.552 cm, and the sleeve length line segment ms1 is 57.96 cm. The sleeve structure is composed of points m, i1, i2, i3, x2, q1, q3 and s 1.

Drawing a back collar piece, a collar inserting base and a lapel angle. In the rear collar piece rectangle s1us3s, a line segment s1u ═ ss3 ═ 7.98 cm, a line segment s1s ═ us3 ═ 4.032 cm, a line segment t2y1 is positioned at the right one third of the line segment ss3 and is vertical, a generation point t is extended upwards on the line segment t2y1, the line segment y1t ═ 0.3cm (fixed value), the line segment us2 is a rear collar piece collar head structure, the line segment us2 ═ 0.8cm (fixed value), and the smooth curve connection points s2, t and s1 are used for forming a rear collar piece outer opening structure. The back collar piece structure is composed of points s1, t, s2, s3 and s. The drawing of the collar base depends on the drawing under the back collar piece, and the long side of the rectangle ss3u1w of the collar base is set to be equal to the long side of the rectangle of the back collar piece. The width sw is s3u1 is 2.016 cm. The curvature line segments sw of the two sides of the collar base are s3u1 are 0.336 cm, and the curvature line segments t2u2 and xx1 are respectively positioned at the right third of the long side of the rectangle ss3u1w and are vertical. The collar base toe point t1 and the point t1 are positioned at the center of a line segment s3u1, smooth curves are respectively connected with the points t1, u2 and s to form an upper collar base structure, smooth curves are respectively connected with the points t1, x1 and w to form a lower collar base structure, and the collar base structure is formed by the points s, u2, t1, x1 and w. The feather angle is a triangle formed by connecting points u1, w2 and w, and is in a feather angle structure.

As shown in FIGS. 3 to 5, a blank plate is produced. The front and back cut pieces, the sleeve pieces, the skirt pieces, the back collar pieces, the collar inserting base and the fur sample plate with the lapel are cut by sewing on the basis of the net sample plate. The hems at the bottom edges of the skirt pieces and the sleeve piece sample plates are set to be 3.0 centimeters (fixed value), the seam heads at the rest parts are set to be 1.0 centimeter (fixed value), and the seam heads at the peripheries of the front and back garment pieces, the rear collar piece, the collar inserting base and the lapel are set to be 1.0 centimeter (fixed value). The sleeve sheet, the skirt sheet, the rear collar sheet, the collar inserting base and the lapel angle are all foldable drawings, and form an integral structure of respective templates after being opened along the central axis. The fine dried noodle cutting is to cut the back collar piece and the garment piece in a manner of comparison along the integral stand collar shape of the garment piece after the back collar piece is in butt joint with the garment piece, the length of the fine dried noodle cutting is 20 centimeters (fixed value) longer than the waist section of the garment piece, and the width of the bottom of the fine dried noodle cutting is 4.0 centimeters (fixed value).

As shown in fig. 6-7, the names of the cut pieces, skirt pieces, sleeve pieces, back collar pieces, collar inserting bases and corner line.

As shown in fig. 8, the cutting structure of the dried noodles. And butting the rear collar piece collar butt joint line section s2s3 with the garment piece connecting butt joint line section e2f2 to form a fine dried noodle upper collar portion structure consisting of points s3 (coincident e2), s1, s2 (coincident f2), f3 and g, extending the line segment gg3 to 20 cm to form a 4.0 cm vertical line section, connecting the point consisting of 4.0 cm with the point s3 (coincident e2) to finish fine dried noodle drawing, and placing a sewing head for cutting on the basis of the fine dried noodle drawing (the fine dried noodle in the figure 8 is directly cut after the rear collar piece is in butt joint with the garment piece, and belongs to wool sample board cutting).

As shown in FIGS. 9 to 13, the front and rear panels are sewn together. Comprises the sewing of a back shoulder dart, the sewing of a lapel, the sewing of a collar insert and the sewing of a back collar piece and a collar insert base. The sewing of the back shoulder dart adopts a flat seam lock stitch sewing, the width of the sewing head is 1.0 cm (fixed value), and the sewing parameter is 14 needles and 2.5 cm. And the inserting seam process of the barge corner is characterized in that a port is set to be downwards cut on a line segment d2g4, the length of the port is equal to the line segment u1w2, and the wool pattern barge corner is inserted into the port. The collar is composed of an upper collar and a lower collar, and the upper collar and the lower collar are folded and folded along a symmetric axis d2g4 to form a lapel collar shape. The back center lines of the upper collar and the lower collar (comprising a two-layer structure) of the collar insert are set to be sewn (the back center lines of the collar inserts of the left garment piece and the right garment piece are correspondingly sewn), the left garment piece and the right garment piece are unfolded, and collar insert outer port lines of the upper collar insert and the lower collar insert are sewn (the upper collar and the lower collar of the left garment piece and the lower collar insert respectively). The collar inserting base is of a jujube-core-shaped integral structure after being unfolded, the upper arc line and the lower arc line are the same, the collar inserting base is set into two layers, one layer is aligned and sewn with the inner opening of the upper collar part of the collar to be inserted, and the other layer is aligned and sewn with the inner opening of the lower collar part of the collar to be inserted. The shoulder seams of the front and rear panels are sewn together with the back midline. The collar stitching process of collar insertion sets the lower smooth curve of a collar insertion base (comprising a two-layer structure) to be stitched with a rear collar line, comprises stitching of three layers of cloth of the collar insertion base and a rear garment piece, adopts flat seam lock stitch stitching, and has stitching width of 1.0 cm (fixed value) and stitching parameter of 14 needles and 2.5 cm. And (3) sewing the back collar piece, sewing the side line of the collar neck with a butt line, sewing the collar stitching line of the back collar piece with the back collar line, and sewing by adopting a flat seam lock stitch, wherein the width of a sewing head is 1.0 cm (fixed value), and the sewing parameter is 14 needles and 2.5 cm.

As shown in fig. 14, the sewing process of the skirt piece. Including stitching of the back flaps and stitching of the layer folds. The layer pleats 1, 2, 3, 4 of the skirt are set to be fixed and sewn in a width direction of the pleats, the pleats are uniformly inclined upward, the skirt body is folded along the central axis mw1 of the skirt, the distance from m to n points is sewn, and the two pleats are turned over to form a layer wave-shaped structure. The sewing is carried out by adopting a flat-stitch lock stitch, the width of the sewing head is 1.0 cm (fixed value), and the sewing parameter is 14 needles and 2.5 cm. The bottom edge of the skirt piece is set to be manufactured by adopting a seam-rolling process, the bottom edge of the skirt is folded for 1.0 cm and then folded for 2.0 cm for sewing, a flat seam lock stitch is adopted for sewing, the edge is sewn for 0.1 cm (fixed value), and the sewing parameter is 14 needles for 2.5 cm. The front and back centers of the skirt pieces are set to be sewed, and the front pieces are sewed to the positions where the front pieces are sewed to form a point, and a zipper is arranged at the position where the front pieces are sewed to form a point. The waist line of the skirt piece and the waist line of the garment piece are set to be sewn, a flat seam lock stitch is adopted for sewing, the width of a sewing head is 1.0 cm (fixed value), and the sewing parameter is 14 needles and 2.5 cm.

As shown in FIGS. 15 to 16, a sewing process of sleeve panels. Including stitching of the back flaps and stitching of the layer folds. The layer gathers 1, 2, 3, 4 of the sleeve sheet are fixed and sewn together according to the width of the gathers, the gathers fall down uniformly upward, the sleeve body is folded along the central axis ms1 of the sleeve sheet, the distance from m to y2 points is sewn, and the two gathers are turned over to form a wave-shaped structure. The sewing is carried out by adopting a flat-stitch lock stitch, the width of the sewing head is 1.0 cm (fixed value), and the sewing parameter is 14 needles and 2.5 cm. The bottom edge of the sleeve piece is set to be manufactured by adopting a seam rolling process, the bottom edge of the skirt is folded for 1.0 cm and then folded for 2.0 cm for sewing, a flat seam lock stitch is adopted for sewing, the edge is sewn for 0.1 cm (fixed value), and the sewing parameter is 14 needles for 2.5 cm. The side seam of the sleeve piece is set to be made, and the flat seam lock stitch is adopted for sewing, the width of the sewing head is 1.0 cm (fixed value), and the sewing parameter is 14 needles and 2.5 cm. The sleeve stitching process is characterized in that sleeve points m are set to be aligned with points c, the sleeve mountains are sewn into sleeve holes of a cut piece for one circle, a flat seam lock stitch is adopted for sewing, the width of a sewing head is 1.0 cm (fixed value), and the sewing parameters are 14 needles and 2.5 cm. The fine dried noodles are manufactured by setting the fine dried noodles, the outer opening of the connecting collar, the neckline and the front fly line to be aligned, sewing the fine dried noodles to the sewing point of the front skirt piece, adding the zipper to sew the fine dried noodles together, adopting a flat seam lock stitch to sew, sewing 0.1 cm (fixed value) along the edge, and sewing parameters are 14 needles and 2.5 cm.

As shown in FIG. 17, the front and back effects of the garment molding of the present embodiment are shown.

Although embodiments of the present invention have been shown and described, it will be appreciated by those skilled in the art that changes, modifications, substitutions and alterations can be made in these embodiments without departing from the principles and spirit of the invention, the scope of which is defined in the appended claims and their equivalents.