阅读说明：本技术 化妆品组合物的污染防护因子 (Contamination prevention factor for cosmetic compositions ) 是由 B·J·多布科夫斯基 黄楠 孟晟 于 2020-03-25 设计创作，主要内容包括：公开了一种确定化妆品组合物的污染防护因子(PPF)的方法,其包括：(a)通过任何已知的测试方法来测试化妆品组合物使存在于皮肤上的至少一种类型的污染物无效的能力(α),并以0至1的标度对其进行表示,随后由公式A计算所述PPF的步骤,其中(1-α)指示对皮肤的相应潜在残留损伤,其中所述组合物包含已知使所述至少一种类型的污染物无效的至少一种成分,所述至少一种成分是抗炎剂或抗氧化剂；或者另选地,(b)通过任何已知的测试方法来测试化妆品组合物抑制至少一种类型的污染物与皮肤接触的能力(β),并也以0至1的标度对其进行表示,随后由公式B计算所述PPF的步骤,其中(1-β)指示对皮肤的相应潜在残留损伤,其中所述组合物包含已知抑制至少一种类型的污染物与皮肤接触的至少一种成分,并且其中所述成分是防晒剂、屏障增强剂或聚合物；或者进一步另选地,(c)通过任何已知的测试方法来测试化妆品组合物移除存在于皮肤上的至少一种类型的污染物的能力(γ),也以0至1的标度对其进行表示,随后由公式C计算所述PPF的步骤,其中(1-γ)指示对皮肤的相应潜在残留损伤。(Disclosed is a method of determining a contamination protection factor (PPF) of a cosmetic composition, comprising: (a) the step of testing the cosmetic composition for its ability to neutralize (a) at least one type of contaminant present on the skin by any known test method and expressing it on a scale of 0 to 1, followed by calculating the PPF from formula a, wherein (1-a) indicates the corresponding potential residual damage to the skin, wherein the composition comprises at least one ingredient known to neutralize said at least one type of contaminant, said at least one ingredient being an anti-inflammatory agent or an antioxidant; or alternatively(B) the step of testing the cosmetic composition for its ability to inhibit the contact of at least one type of contaminant with the skin (β) by any known test method and also expressing it on a scale of 0 to 1, followed by calculating the PPF from formula B, wherein (1- β) indicates the corresponding potential residual damage to the skin, wherein the composition comprises at least one ingredient known to inhibit the contact of at least one type of contaminant with the skin, and wherein the ingredient is a sunscreen, barrier enhancer or polymer; or further alternatively, (C) the ability of the cosmetic composition to remove at least one type of contaminant present on the skin (γ) is tested by any known test method, also expressed on a scale of 0 to 1, followed by the step of calculating said PPF by formula C, wherein (1- γ) indicates the corresponding potential residual damage to the skin.)

1. A method of determining a Pollution Prevention Factor (PPF) of a cosmetic composition, comprising:

(a) the step of testing the cosmetic composition for its ability to neutralize (a) at least one type of contaminant present on the skin by any known test method and expressing it on a scale of 0 to 1, followed by calculating the PPF from formula a, wherein (1-a) indicates the corresponding potential residual damage to the skin, wherein the composition comprises at least one ingredient known to neutralize said at least one type of contaminant, and said at least one ingredient is an anti-inflammatory or anti-oxidant; or alternatively, the number of bits in the bit stream,

(b) the step of testing the cosmetic composition for its ability to inhibit the contact of at least one type of contaminant with the skin (β) by any known test method, and also expressing it on a scale of 0 to 1, followed by calculating the PPF from formula B, wherein (1- β) indicates the corresponding potential residual damage to the skin, wherein the composition comprises at least one ingredient known to inhibit the contact of at least one type of contaminant with the skin, and wherein said ingredient is a sunscreen, barrier enhancer or polymer; or in the further alternative,

(c) the ability of the cosmetic composition to remove at least one type of pollutant present on the skin (γ) is tested by any known test method and is also expressed on a scale from 0 to 1, followed by the step of calculating the PPF from formula C, where (1- γ) indicates the corresponding potential residual damage to the skin:

2. the method according to claim 1, wherein the capacity (a) is considered to be 0.2 when the component is found to have a relatively weak anti-inflammatory effect, 0.75 when the component is found to have a relatively strong anti-inflammatory effect, and the potential residual damage is 0.8 and 0.25, respectively.

3. The method according to claim 1, wherein the capacity (a) is considered to be 0.2 when the ingredient is found to have a relatively weak antioxidant effect, 0.8 when the ingredient is found to have a relatively strong anti-inflammatory effect, and the potential residual damage is 0.8 and 0.2, respectively.

4. The method according to claim 1, wherein if the SPF (sun protection factor) of the sunscreen is greater than 15, the corresponding capacity (β) is considered to be 0.5, if the SPF of the sunscreen is less than or equal to 15, the corresponding capacity (β) is considered to be 0.2, and the potential residual damage is 0.5 and 0.8, respectively.

5. The method according to claim 1, wherein the corresponding capacity (β) is considered to be 0.7 when a strong barrier enhancer is present, wherein the corresponding capacity (β) is considered to be 0.2 when a weak barrier enhancer is present, and correspondingly the residual damage is in the range of 0.3 to 0.8.

6. The method according to claim 1, wherein in view of the presence of the polymer, when inhibition of the at least one type of contaminant from contact with the skin is found to be > 70%, then the corresponding capacity (β) is assigned a score of 0.7 on a scale of 0 to 1, when the inhibition is found to be < 30%, the corresponding capacity (β) is assigned a score of 0.2 on a scale of 0 to 1, and correspondingly the residual damage is 0.3 and 0.8.

7. The method of claim 1, wherein the composition comprises at least one ingredient known to remove at least one type of contaminant present on the skin.

8. The method according to claim 7, wherein when the composition is a cleanser that removes 75% to 85% of the at least one type of contaminant present on the skin, the corresponding ability is assigned a score of 0.4 on a scale of 0 to 1, and when the composition is a cleanser that removes 85% to 95% of the at least one type of contaminant present on the skin, the corresponding ability is assigned a score of 0.7 on a scale of 0 to 1, and when the composition is a cleanser that removes 95% to 100% of the at least one type of contaminant present on the skin, the corresponding ability is assigned a score of 0.8 on a scale of 0 to 1, and the residual damage is 0.6, 0.3, and 0.2, respectively.

9. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the method comprises:

(a) a step of testing the ability (α) of the cosmetic composition to neutralize at least one type of pollutant present on the skin by any known test method and expressing it on a scale from 0 to 1, then calculating the corresponding potential residual damage to the skin as (1- α); and at least one of said steps (b) or (c), wherein said composition comprises at least one ingredient known to neutralize said at least one type of contaminant, and said at least one ingredient is an anti-inflammatory agent or an antioxidant;

(b) the step of testing the cosmetic composition for its ability to inhibit the contact of at least one type of contaminant with the skin (β) by any known test method and also expressing it on a scale of 0 to 1, followed by calculating the corresponding potential residual damage to the skin as (1- β), further followed by calculating the corresponding contamination protection factor from formula D, wherein the composition comprises at least one ingredient known to inhibit the contact of at least one type of contaminant with the skin, and wherein the ingredient is a sunscreen, a barrier enhancer or a polymer; or

(c) The ability (γ) of the cosmetic composition to remove at least one type of contaminant present on the skin is tested by any known test method and is also expressed on a scale of 0 to 1, the corresponding potential residual damage to the skin is then calculated as (1- γ), further followed by the step of calculating the contamination protection factor from equation E:

10. the method according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the method comprises:

(a) testing the ability (a) of the cosmetic composition to neutralize at least one type of contaminant present on the skin by any known test method, and expressing it on a scale of 0 to 1, wherein (1-a) indicates a corresponding potential residual damage to the skin, wherein the composition comprises at least one ingredient known to neutralize the at least one type of contaminant, and the at least one ingredient is an anti-inflammatory or anti-oxidant;

(b) testing the cosmetic composition for its ability to inhibit the contact of at least one type of contaminant with the skin (β), and also the steps of expressing it on a scale of 0 to 1, by any known test method, wherein (1- β) indicates a corresponding potential residual damage to the skin, wherein the composition comprises at least one ingredient known to inhibit the contact of at least one type of contaminant with the skin, and wherein the ingredient is a sunscreen, a barrier enhancer or a polymer; further followed by

(c) The ability of the cosmetic composition to remove at least one type of pollutant present on the skin (γ) is tested by any known test method and is also expressed on a scale from 0 to 1, and the step of calculating the pollution protection factor is represented by the formula F, where (1- γ) indicates the corresponding potential residual damage to the skin:

11. the process of any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein said PPF is a number between 0 and 75.

Technical Field

The present invention relates to a method of evaluating the degree of protection afforded by a cosmetic composition from atmospheric contaminants and using this evaluation to assess the efficacy of the composition and compare it to other compositions as required.

Background

As reported by the World Health Organization (WHO), outdoor air pollution originates from natural and man-made sources. While in arid areas where forest fires and sand storms are more likely to occur, natural sources make a significant contribution to local air pollution, there is also a significant contribution from human activity.

Such human activities include fuel combustion, heat and power generation, and industrial facilities (e.g., manufacturing plants, mines, and oil refineries). Contaminants can be classified as particulate matter, black carbon, ground ozone, and oxides of carbon, nitrogen, and sulfur.

Particulate Matter (PM) is inhalable particles consisting of sulfate, nitrate, ammonia, sodium chloride, black carbon, mine dust and water. Particles (PM) less than 10 microns in diameter₁₀) Including fine Particles (PM) less than 2.5 microns in diameter_2.5) Posing the greatest risk to health as they may enter the lungs. Carbon black (soot) and dust (mineral oxides such as iron oxide, etc.) comprise a majority of the particulate matter within this size range.

Contaminants can cause several undesirable effects on human skin, such as premature aging, the development of fine lines and wrinkles, pigmented spots, hyperpigmentation, rashes, and inflammation.

Some cosmetic compositions claim to prevent, inhibit or limit particulate contaminants from contacting our skin by forming a protective layer, i.e. they have the ability to partially or completely block environmental contaminants such as particulates, oxides/peroxides and gases from contacting human skin. Formulation scientists often find it necessary to be able to validate such assertions with evidence. Thus, some manufacturing companies and some academic researchers have developed methods to test/analyze or verify the efficacy of such compositions. The purpose of such methods is to determine the efficacy of candidate cosmetic compositions. Sometimes the objective is to compare the efficacy of one or more compositions or active ingredients such as polymers. Some of these tests have been performed on human volunteers. Others have found suitable skin substitutes (skin-equivalent) such as plastic films, active skin substitutes, skin-cleansing compositions, and skin-cleansing compositions,In vitro skin models, ex vivo skin, etc. Although human skin substitutes are an integral part of such testing methods, the selection of appropriate contaminants is also important. However, it is not always possible to test with actual contaminants, so model contaminants are often used.

Dow Corning discloses a test method to quantify Splash from its productThe degree of protection afforded against particle adhesion. A thin film of the test material was formed on the collagen, followed by surface analysis and repeated analysis of exposure to carbon black.

EP1760440 a1(P & G) discloses a method comprising the steps of:

selecting a raman active that correlates with the effectiveness of the skin care composition to be tested;

(i) measuring a concentration profile of the raman active as a function of depth within a test area of skin using confocal raman spectroscopy;

(ii) determining the thickness of the stratum corneum within the test area; then the

(iii) Applying a skin care composition to the test zone; then the

(iv) Measuring a concentration profile of the raman-active as a function of depth within the test region using confocal raman spectroscopy;

(v) determining the thickness of the stratum corneum within the test area; then the

(vi) Calculating the effectiveness of the skin care composition as a function of: (ii) a concentration profile of the raman active after and before application of the skin care composition; and the thickness of the stratum corneum after and before application of the skin care composition.

Despite the information on the various test methods, there is no standard formula to evaluate the effectiveness of anti-contaminant cosmetic ingredients. The following web pages disclose that there are no standard tests or calculations to define the "pollution protection factor" such as SPF of sunscreen compositions:

https://www.syntivia.fr/how-to-measure-anti-pollution-claims-in-vitro.html。

the following web pages disclose that the final pollution protection factor can be developed by the industry:

“https://www.cosmeticsdesign.com/Article/2017/10/05/Dow-invests-in-anti-pollution-skin-care-Part-2”。

the following web pages also disclose that there are currently no standardized terms known as contamination protection factors: https:// www.marieclaire.co.uk/beauty/skinncare/the-10-best-anti-polarization-products-for-skin-295167.

KR100373519B (Pacific Corporation,2003) discloses a skin pollution index corresponding to a climate factor, which takes into account the effect of the climate factor to make full use of the skin pollution index for skin care. The skin pollution index is formed by climatic factors affecting skin pollution such as humidity, average temperature, wind speed and air pollution alarms. The climate factors are graded according to the effect on skin pollution and each grade is digitized. The skin pollution index is set at the working value according to the levels regarding humidity, average temperature, wind speed, and air pollution alarm. Ten levels are set and a weight of twenty is added to the alert of the air pollution alarm. The daily skin contamination index is displayed in numerical values corresponding to the daily climate factor, and information on skin care is effectively provided by alerting a current state of skin contamination according to the skin contamination index.

However, this factor is used for weather forecasting and not for cosmetic compositions.

US2008187502 a1 (michellel Garay) discloses that conventional methods for assessing the effect of oxidative stress on skin involve invasive methods for harvesting skin cells (such as via skin biopsy), expensive clinical studies, or invasive methods of harvesting living cells. Conventional in vitro methods attempt to assess oxidative stress by simulating the effect of an external attack on "cultured" cells obtained in various ways, and thus measure the effect of not capturing a complete biological response. Accordingly, the inventors of the present application disclose a method of assessing oxidative stress in a mammal comprising the steps of: exposing skin cells of said mammal to an oxidizable moiety, exposing said skin cells to an external challenge, and evaluating a reaction product of said oxidizable moiety. Non-invasively removing the skin cells from the mammal prior to the evaluating step such that the removed skin cells are viable. Using this method, the oxidation protection factor OPF of the external composition is measured and evaluated. The OPF of the external composition X was determined using the method of the invention and the following formula:

OPF＝100*(S_N,UV-S_X,UV)/(S_N,UV-S_N,NUV)

wherein SN, UV are the fluorescent signals obtained when no external composition is applied to skin cells, which are subsequently exposed to UV radiation;

wherein SN, NUV are fluorescence signals obtained when no external composition is applied to skin cells not exposed to UV; and

wherein SX, UV is the fluorescence signal obtained when the external composition X is applied to skin cells, which are subsequently exposed to UV radiation.

HERRLING, T.T. the Radial Status Factor (RSF). a novel metric to a characteristics skin products. int J Cosmet Sci.2012, Vol.34 (4), pp.285-90, discloses the free ground state Factor (RSF). RSF describes the properties of a substance used to prevent or promote the generation of free radicals. The presence of free radicals is strongly correlated with all redox processes occurring in the skin. This is also the case in the sun. Substances with good protection against free radicals are characterized by a factor RSF ═ 1. The UV filters have the highest RSF. The free radical protection of RSF 100 is the upper limit of current free radical protection because it allows only 1% free radical generation. Moderate protection is achieved by the use of antioxidants. They can act as a line of defense against secondary sun damage. RSF >2 (meaning 50% free radical protection) is said to be difficult to achieve. But the antioxidant can penetrate into the dermis to protect the skin from the inside as opposed to UV filters which are only deposited on the surface. Normal untreated skin is characterized by RSF ═ 1, which means that there is no protection and no promotion of free radicals. Such information can be used to formulate more effective compositions, or to be able to select one composition among a relatively small number of other compositions, depending on their efficacy.

The factors disclosed in this publication are measures for grading sunscreen products.

Dermatec Lyon Company has disclosed a method for determining a contamination prevention factor for a cosmetic composition, which is carried out in a 2-step method. In the first step, it is necessary to compare the effect of exposing the skin to cigarette smoke for a period of 15 minutes. Thereafter, treated and untreated areas of skin were compared to evaluate the antioxidant effect of the cosmetic composition. Through the process disclosed in this publication, the cosmetic composition was found to have a stain protection factor (PPF) of 20.

There is an unmet need for a robust and reliable method of determining the contamination protection factor of any cosmetic composition, and such PPF can be used as a tool to evaluate/grade cosmetic compositions based on their efficacy in protecting against the harmful effects of contamination. The present invention addresses the stated needs by overcoming at least one of the drawbacks, disadvantages, or limitations of the prior art.

Disclosure of Invention

Factor(s)

Consumers expect that an effective cosmetic composition should render at least one type of contaminant present on the skin ineffective, or it should prevent at least one type of contaminant from coming into contact with the skin, or it should remove (clean) at least one type of contaminant present on the skin. Thus, the contamination protection factor of a cosmetic composition may be considered an indication of its ability to protect the skin by at least one of the above modes of action.

According to a first aspect of the present invention, there is disclosed a method of determining a contamination prevention factor (PPF) of a cosmetic composition, comprising:

(a) the step of testing the cosmetic composition for its ability to neutralize at least one type of contaminant present on the skin (α), and expressing it on a scale of 0 to 1, by any known test method, followed by calculating the PPF from formula a, wherein (1- α) indicates the corresponding residual damage to the skin, wherein the composition comprises at least one ingredient known to neutralize said at least one type of contaminant, and said at least one ingredient is an anti-inflammatory agent or an antioxidant; or alternatively, the number of bits in the bit stream,

(b) the step of testing the ability (β) of a cosmetic composition to inhibit the contact of at least one type of contaminant with the skin by any known test method, and also expressing it on a scale of 0 to 1, followed by calculating the PPF from formula B, wherein (1- β) indicates the corresponding residual damage to the skin, wherein the composition comprises at least one ingredient known to inhibit the contact of at least one type of contaminant with the skin, and wherein the ingredient is a sunscreen, a barrier enhancer or a polymer; or in the further alternative,

(c) the ability of the cosmetic composition to remove at least one type of pollutant present on the skin (γ) is tested by any known test method, also expressed on a scale from 0 to 1, followed by the step of calculating said PPF from formula C, where (1- γ) indicates the corresponding residual damage to the skin.

Detailed Description

According to the invention, the degree of protection against atmospheric pollutants provided by a cosmetic composition is represented or indicated by the so-called factor (pollution protection factor, PPF).

Preferably the factor (e.g. A, B or C above), i.e. the PPF, is a number between 0 and 75, where 0 represents minimum or no protection and 75 represents the maximum possible protection that can be provided by the cosmetic composition. The numerical range (or range) of 0 to 75 is true and appears familiar to consumers as they know the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) suitable for use in cosmetic compositions, which is also a number in about the same range.

In each of formulas a through F. The denominator 0.047 is constant and its use ensures a PPF in the range of 0 to 75.

It is preferred that the PPF of the cosmetic composition so determined is associated with the cosmetic composition, for example with the packaging of the composition, or in an audiovisual communication involving the composition. Preferably, the PPF of the cosmetic composition is associated with packaging of the cosmetic composition. Preferably the package is a primary package. Preferably, the primary package is a tube, pouch, bag, bottle or dispenser. Alternatively, it is preferred that the package is a secondary package, preferably a carton or box. By "packaging-related" is meant that the packaging carries or carries information about the PPF of the cosmetic composition of interest, either in the form of the PPF (preferably 0 to 75), or in the form of at least one indicia as described below.

Once the PPF of the cosmetic composition has been specified or determined by the method according to the invention, the numbers on the scale from 0 to 75 of interest are preferably further represented in at least one secondary non-numeric form. Preferably such non-numerical forms include tactile, visual or olfactory forms. Preferably such visual form is in the form of a marking such as an alphabet or a group of words such as high/medium/low, or good/better/best, or a color scale or color scheme card, or a color based marking such as red/amber/green, where red represents a lower factor (e.g. less than 10) and green represents a higher factor (such as 60 or 65).

For example, it is preferred that when the PPF is in the range of 60 to 75, it is said to be high; when it is in the range of 45 to 59, it is called medium, and when it is in the range of 10 to 44, it is called low.

Alternatively, the factors are represented in the form of smiling faces or expressions, which are well known in social media. When marked as tactile, it is preferably in the form of recessed or raised protrusions bearing indicia or symbols sufficient to indicate the PPF, or a particular number of protrusions that can be readily read and understood by a person understanding such indicia. The contamination protection factor can be sub-expressed in a number of ways, the above examples being non-limiting.

The present invention relates to a scalable and consumer-friendly method of evaluating the anti-pollution efficacy of cosmetic compositions, including but not limited to skin care, skin cleansing and hair care products. Such methods can be used to assess the efficacy of any composition, regardless of whether such compositions claim protection from contamination or other aspects. Such compositions typically contain one or more ingredients that individually or collectively provide a particular degree of contamination protection. The scaleable factor (PPF) is a useful and reliable guide for selecting cosmetic compositions that protect skin from the harmful effects of atmospheric contaminants. Furthermore, the factor may also be used in any form that conveys the efficacy or benefit of such cosmetic compositions, for example in the form of an advertisement, via media such as print, TV or social media. Additionally, such PPFs may be used to demonstrate any claim, such as a consumer claim or advertising claim relating to the benefit or efficacy of a cosmetic composition. Alternatively, the method according to the present invention may be used to compare the pollution protection factor (efficacy) of a given cosmetic composition with one or more other cosmetic compositions.

The present invention is based, at least in part, on the assumption that: any cosmetic composition that can protect the skin of a user from the harmful effects of atmospheric pollution comprises at least one ingredient (active) that renders ineffective (i.e., neutralizes) at least one type of contaminant present on the skin, or that inhibits contact (i.e., blocks) of at least one type of contaminant from the skin, or that removes (i.e., removes) at least one type of contaminant present on the skin.

Efficacy alpha

According to a first aspect of the invention, the method of the invention comprises a step.

This step is a step of testing the cosmetic composition for its ability (α) to neutralize at least one type of contaminant present on the skin by any known test method and expressing it on a scale of 0 to 1, followed by calculation of the PPF from formula a, where (1- α) indicates the corresponding potential residual damage to the skin.

Potential residual damage represents the extent of damage that may be caused by contaminants, as determined by the assay of interest.

Alternatively, the method comprises the step of testing the ability (β) of the cosmetic composition to inhibit the contact of at least one type of contaminant with the skin by any known test method, and also expressing it on a scale of 0 to 1, followed by calculating said PPF from formula B, wherein (1- β) indicates the corresponding potential residual damage to the skin.

Further alternatively, the method comprises the step of testing the ability of the cosmetic composition to remove at least one type of contaminant present on the skin (γ) by any known test method, also expressed on a scale of 0 to 1, followed by calculation of said PPF by formula C, wherein (1- γ) indicates the corresponding potential residual damage to the skin.

The value of PPF is positive due to the use of negative logarithms, and falls within the numerical range of 0 to 75 due to the use of a constant (denominator) of 0.047.

It is preferred that the composition comprises at least one ingredient known to render the at least one type of contaminant ineffective. In other words, in the method of the invention, the efficacy (α) is due to the presence in the composition of at least one ingredient known to render the at least one type of contaminant ineffective.

In addition, it is preferred that the at least one ingredient is an anti-inflammatory agent or an antioxidant.

Preferably, the capacity (α) is considered to be 0.2 when the component is found to have a relatively weak anti-inflammatory effect, 0.75 when the component is found to have a relatively strong anti-inflammatory effect, and the residual lesions are 0.8 and 0.25, respectively. For example, niacinamide has a weak anti-inflammatory effect, in which case its potency (α) is considered to be 0.25. It is preferred that the anti-inflammatory ability is tested by a cell-based cytokine assay. Preferably the antioxidant effect is tested by cellular ROS assay. However, the anti-inflammatory ability may alternatively be determined by any other suitable method.

On the other hand, when 12-HSA is present in the cosmetic composition, the value of efficacy (α) is considered to be 0.5, and when the composition contains curcumin, the value of efficacy (α) is considered to be 0.7, because curcumin is a highly potent anti-inflammatory agent.

In addition, the capacity (α) is considered to be 0.2 when the component has a relatively weak antioxidant effect, 0.8 when the component has a relatively strong antioxidant effect, and accordingly the potential residual damage is in the range of 0.8 to 0.2. An example of a relatively weak antioxidant is resorcinol, and examples of ingredients having a relatively strong antioxidant effect are flavonoids and Glutathione (GSH). Vitamin C is a component with moderate antioxidant effect.

Preferably, the antioxidant is vitamin C or a derivative, for example ascorbyl glucoside, phenol, polyphenols such as tannins, ellagic acid and tannic acid, tea extract such as green tea extract; an anthocyanin; rosemary extract; phenolic acids, stilbenes, in particular resveratrol, derivatives of sulphur-containing amino acids such as S-carboxymethyl-cysteine; ergothioneine; n-acetylcysteine, a carotenoid, retinoic acid, retinol, a flavonoid, vitamin E, a sulfated polysaccharide, or a lignan.

It is preferred that the step of testing the ability (α) of the cosmetic composition to render ineffective at least one type of contaminant present on the skin by any known test method is performed on a 3D active skin substitute (LSE), also known as human skin substitute (HSE), i.e. a material similar to human skin. The active skin substitute comprises living keratinocytes. It also contains a barrier layer that differentiates into the stratum corneum. Currently, several LSEs are commercially available for such applications. Suitable examples include SkinEthicSkinEthic These HSEs can be divided into two broad categories: epidermis and full thickness models.

Efficacy beta

Alternatively, the method according to the invention comprises a step of testing the ability (β) of the cosmetic composition to inhibit the contact of at least one type of pollutant with the skin by any known test method, and also expressing it on a scale from 0 to 1, wherein (1- β) indicates the corresponding potential residual damage to the skin. It is preferred that the composition comprises at least one ingredient known to inhibit at least one type of contaminant from contacting the skin. In other words, the efficacy (β) is due to the presence of at least one ingredient in the composition that is known to prevent at least one type of contaminant from coming into contact with the skin. Preferably such ingredients are sunscreens, barrier enhancers or polymers.

Further preferably, if the SPF (sun protection factor) of the sunscreen is greater than 15, the corresponding capacity (β) is considered to be 0.5, if the SPF of the sunscreen is less than or equal to 15, the corresponding capacity (β) is considered to be 0.2, and the potential residual damage is 0.5 and 0.8, respectively.

Preferably, the SPF is determined by ASTM methods.

Alternatively, when a strong barrier enhancer is present, the corresponding capacity (β) is considered to be 0.7, whereas where a weak barrier enhancer is present, the corresponding capacity (β) is considered to be 0.2, and the potential residual damage is 0.3 and 0.8, respectively.

Further, it is considered that when inhibition of the contact of the at least one type of pollutant with the skin is found to be > 70% in the presence of the polymer, the corresponding capacity (β) is assigned a score of 0.7 on a scale of 0 to 1, when the inhibition is found to be < 30%, the corresponding capacity (β) is assigned a score of 0.2 on a scale of 0 to 1, and the potential residual damage is respectively 0.3 and 0.8. The% blocking can be determined by any suitable method known in the art.

For example, the% barrier when considering the presence of, for example, herbal extracts is<At 30%, the corresponding efficacy (. beta.) was considered to be 0.2. Examples of suitable ingredients are certain plant extracts containing proteins, such asThe% barrier when considering, for example, the presence of cumulative deposition polymer is atIn the middle range (30% to 70% blocking%), the corresponding efficacy is considered to be 0.5. Certain cumulative deposition polymers fall into this category.

When the barrier enhancement is stronger, the corresponding efficacy (β) is considered to be 0.7. Examples of suitable ingredients are PPAR activators such as 12-HSA. When the shielding is enhanced to be in the middle range, the corresponding efficacy is considered to be 0.5. An example of a suitable ingredient is glycerol. When barrier enhancement is lower, the corresponding efficacy is considered to be 0.3. An example of an ingredient that causes low barrier enhancement is sunflower seed oil.

Preferably β is measured by a contaminant permeation assay or by an ex vivo barrier model. Many such methods are freely available on the internet and in magazines, books and periodicals.

Efficacy (Gamma)

It is preferred that the composition comprises at least one ingredient known to remove at least one type of contaminant present on the skin. In other words, in the method according to the invention, the efficacy (γ) is due to the presence in the composition of at least one ingredient known to remove at least one type of pollutant present on the skin. In this case, when considering the% removal of the component (contaminant) as 95% to 100%, the corresponding efficacy (γ) is considered to be 0.8, when considering the% removal of the component as 75% to 85%, the corresponding efficacy (γ) is considered to be 0.4, and the potential residual damage is 0.2 and 0.6, respectively. In other words, it is preferred that the composition comprises at least one ingredient known to remove at least one type of contaminant present on the skin.

Preferably, when the composition is a cleanser that removes 75% to 85% of the at least one type of contaminant present on the skin, the corresponding ability is assigned a score of 0.4 on a scale of 0 to 1, when the composition is a cleanser that removes 85% to 95% of the at least one type of contaminant present on the skin, the corresponding ability is assigned a score of 0.7 on a scale of 0 to 1, and when the composition is a cleanser that removes 95% to 100% of the at least one type of contaminant present on the skin, the corresponding ability is assigned a score of 0.8 on a scale of 0 to 1, and the corresponding potential residual damage is 0.6, 0.3, and 0.2.

Preferred aspects of the process of the invention

According to a preferred aspect of the present invention, a method is disclosed, wherein the method comprises:

(a) the step of testing the cosmetic composition for its ability (α) to render ineffective at least one type of pollutant present on the skin by any known test method, expressed on a scale of 0 to 1, and then calculating as (1- α) the corresponding potential residual damage to the skin; and at least one of said steps (b) or (c), wherein said composition comprises at least one ingredient known to render said at least one type of contaminant ineffective, and said at least one ingredient is an anti-inflammatory agent or an antioxidant;

(b) the ability (β) of a cosmetic composition to inhibit contact of at least one type of contaminant with the skin is tested by any known test method and is also expressed on a scale of 0 to 1, followed by the step of calculating the corresponding potential residual damage to the skin as (1- β), further followed by calculating the corresponding contamination protection factor from formula D, wherein the composition comprises at least one ingredient known to inhibit contact of at least one type of contaminant with the skin, and wherein the ingredient is a sunscreen, a barrier enhancer or a polymer; or

(c) The ability of the cosmetic composition to remove at least one type of contaminant present on the skin (γ) is tested by any known test method, also expressed on a scale of 0 to 1, followed by the step of calculating the corresponding potential residual damage to the skin as (1- γ), further followed by the step of calculating the contamination protection factor from equation E.

Thus, according to this preferred aspect of the invention, the method has a step in which the capacity (α) of the cosmetic composition to render ineffective at least one type of pollutant present on the skin is determined, and this is expressed on a scale of 0 to 1.

This is followed by one of two steps:

-a step of testing the cosmetic composition for its ability to inhibit the contact of at least one type of pollutant with the skin (β) by any known test method, and also expressing it on a scale from 0 to 1; or

-a step of testing the cosmetic composition for its ability to remove at least one type of pollutant present on the skin (γ) by any known test method, and also of expressing it on a scale from 0 to 1.

In this case, the factor represents the cumulative ability of the composition to render the contaminant ineffective, prevent or render ineffective at least one type of contaminant from contacting the skin, and remove at least one type of contaminant present on the skin.

According to a most preferred aspect of the present invention, a method of the first aspect is disclosed, wherein the method comprises, in no particular order:

(a) the ability (α) of the cosmetic composition to neutralize at least one type of contaminant present on the skin is tested by any known test method, and the step of expressing it on a scale of 0 to 1, wherein (1- α) indicates the corresponding potential residual damage to the skin;

(b) the ability (β) of the cosmetic composition to inhibit the contact of at least one type of pollutant with the skin is tested by any known test method, and the procedure is also expressed on a scale of 0 to 1, where (1- β) indicates the corresponding potential residual damage to the skin; further followed by

(c) The ability of the cosmetic composition to remove at least one type of contaminant present on the skin (γ) is tested by any known test method and is also expressed on a scale of 0 to 1, and the step of calculating the contamination protection factor is given by the formula F, where (1- γ) indicates the corresponding potential residual damage to the skin.

Thus, according to this preferred aspect of the invention, the method has a step in which the capacity (α) of the cosmetic composition to neutralize at least one type of contaminant present on the skin is determined.

This is followed by a second step of testing the cosmetic composition for its ability to prevent at least one type of pollutant from coming into contact with the skin (β), and also of expressing it on a scale from 0 to 1.

This is followed by a third step of testing the cosmetic composition for its ability to remove at least one type of pollutant present on the skin (γ), and also of expressing it on a scale from 0 to 1.

In this case, the factor represents the cumulative ability to render the contaminant ineffective, prevent at least one type of contaminant from contacting the skin, and remove at least one type of contaminant present on the skin. If the cosmetic composition of interest performs all three functions, the factor is expressed as the sum of the ability to neutralize, block and remove such contaminants. The term "sum" does not mean the mathematical addition of the three individual effects, but rather a global index derived or derived by the execution of an algorithm, wherein each effect contributes to the global index or factor (PPF), although to a different extent, depending on the nature and purpose of the composition of interest and on the efficacy of each ingredient of interest. For example, leave-on skin creams contribute very little to contaminant removal, but can play an important role in blocking or neutralizing (i.e., rendering ineffective) the harmful effects of atmospheric contaminants. On the other hand, rinse-off products such as facial washes will primarily remove contaminants and can be expected to contribute very little to neutralization and contact prevention.

As used herein, the term "comprising" encompasses the terms "consisting essentially of … …" and "consisting of … …". When the term "comprising" is used, the listed steps or options need not be exhaustive. Unless otherwise indicated, a numerical range expressed in the form "x to y" should be understood to include x and y. In specifying any range of values or amounts, any particular upper value or amount can be associated with any particular lower value or amount. Except in the examples and comparative experiments, or where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers are to be understood as modified by the word "about". All percentages and ratios contained herein are by weight unless otherwise indicated. As used herein, the indefinite articles "a" or "an" and their corresponding definite articles "the" mean at least one, or one or more, unless otherwise indicated. The various features of the invention mentioned in the sections above are also applicable where necessary to other sections, where appropriate. Thus, features specified in one section may be combined with features specified in other sections as appropriate. Any section headings are added for convenience only and are not intended to limit the disclosure in any way. The examples are intended to illustrate the invention and are not intended to limit the invention to those examples per se.

The term cosmetic composition means any cosmetic composition. Preferably, the cosmetic composition is a leave-on cosmetic composition. Or a rinse-off composition. "leave-on" as used herein means a composition that is applied to the skin and is not intended to be washed or rinsed away over a period of time, as compared to a cleansing or rinse-off or rinsable composition.

Preferably, the leave-on cosmetic composition is a serum, a hand cream, a face cream, a body lotion, a make-up (make-up) composition such as a foundation, a lipstick, a hair styling gel, a hair styling cream, and a deodorant and antiperspirant such as a roll-on or stick. The composition may thus be in a variety of forms.

The term active ingredient means any ingredient, including film-forming polymers, present in cosmetic compositions to inhibit (or neutralize or wash) particulate contaminants from contacting human skin. Non-limiting examples thereof include silicone polymers and extracts of natural products, such as the roots or leaves of any plant.

Human skin acts like a natural barrier, protecting our body from external influences. However, sometimes and under certain conditions, the skin may no longer perform this function completely and effectively. There is a large body of literature demonstrating the statement that atmospheric pollutants affect the normal function of human skin. Particulate contaminants tend to be the top in at least some countries or regions of the world.

In general, formulation scientists have explored newer and more effective cosmetic compositions to protect our skin from contaminants, including compositions or active agents that can resist, limit, or prevent such contaminants from contacting the skin. However, as discussed in detail below in the background and prior art sections, more robust and reliable methods are needed to assess the efficacy of such compositions. The present invention addresses, at least in part, such a need.

Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that the principle of the assessment of the contamination protection factor is to associate a protection (from contamination) by a single component or by a component with the same or similar mechanism of action (MoA). Finally, the respective benefits are combined, since it is assumed that each ingredient, when present, will perform its defined action on the skin or by the user. The net effect is manifested as a single overall factor or index that can be used to show or demonstrate the overall efficacy of the composition.

Table 1 contains information about three main mechanisms of action that may be associated or correlated with some important functional ingredients typically included in cosmetic compositions.

TABLE 1

Depending on the formulation of the cosmetic composition of interest, the functional active ingredients of the composition are identified.

Subsequently, depending on the nature of the functional activity of the active ingredient, a composition is assigned a partition score of 0 to 1, depending on its capacity (α, β or γ, as the case may be). The binomial score corresponds to the performance of the ingredient of interest known to deliver a benefit by a particular mode of action. For example, a product containing a safe and effective amount of vitamin C is considered to have a moderate level of antioxidant efficacy and is therefore assigned a score of 0.5. Each subentry score is in the range of 0 to 1. A score of 1 means that the component provides the greatest possible protection through the mode of action. Accordingly, and at least in theory, this means that the ingredient prevents any damage to the skin. Conversely, a score of 0 means that there is theoretically no protection in terms of this mode of action. Thus, the higher the score, the better the efficacy. For each mode of action that can be used to determine the degree of protection, scientifically proven in vitro or in vivo tests are available.

When multiplied by a single score, it provides an indication of cumulative damage (or degree of non-protection). Considering the use of negative logarithms, overall efficacy is inversely proportional to cumulative damage; overall efficacy is higher if the cumulative damage is lower.

The formula followed in the method of the present invention can be used to determine the overall efficacy of any cosmetic composition, and the effect of the addition or removal of any ingredient in the composition on the overall efficacy can be readily determined by adding or subtracting the efficacy corresponding to the ingredient of interest from the overall efficacy.

Thus, the present invention provides a method by which the overall efficacy of any cosmetic composition of known or unknown formulation, or even achieved by a cosmetic regimen, is robust enough to allow analysis without the need for repeated validation testing. At the same time, there is little or no possibility of conflicting results between products containing the same ingredients.

The term particulate contaminants, also known as particulate matter or PM, means a mixture of solids and liquid droplets floating in the air. Some particles are released directly from a particular source, while others are formed in complex chemical reactions in the atmosphere. Suitable examples include dust, dirt, smoke or fumes. The particulate contaminants are described in the following particle sizes: PM with aerodynamic diameters less than 2.5 μm and 10 μm respectively_2.5And PM₁₀. It is preferred that in the method according to the invention the model fine particulate matter resembles PM at least in size_2.5Or PM₁₀。

Cosmetic composition

The cosmetic composition whose contamination protection factor is to be determined is preferably a composition which can be applied directly to the skin. Alternatively, they may be delivered by various transdermal delivery systems such as transdermal patches as are known in the art. For example, the cosmetic composition may be a solution, gel, emulsion, ointment, cream, suspension, paste, liniment, powder, tincture, aerosol, patch, or the like in a cosmetically acceptable base.

The composition may further be of a variety of product types including, but not limited to, toners, sticks, sprays, ointments, pastes, foams, powders, mousses, strips, patches, electrically-powered patches, hydrogels, film-forming products, facial and dermal masks, make-up such as foundations, and the like.

The invention will now be described in detail with the following non-limiting examples.

Detailed Description

Examples

Several cosmetic compositions of known formulation were selected for the experiments. They are cleansers, day creams, night creams, skin lotions and light hydrated gels. Actives are commonly used for this and/or to give detailed formulations.

The composition was subjected to a series of analyses as follows:

by exposure to Vitro Skin^TMUsing fluorescent particles to determine alpha

Determination of beta by means of a contaminant permeation assay, or by means of an ex vivo barrier model

-determining gamma by cellular ROS assay or cell-based cytokine assay or by measurement of SPF

Observations are summarized in table 2.

TABLE 2

As calculated according to formula F

The examples shown clearly indicate that the method according to the invention is for measuring and comparing the work of a cosmetic composition against atmospheric pollutantsAn efficient, robust and reliable tool. The method can be used to measure and demonstrate the effectiveness of cosmetic cleaning compositions on atmospheric pollutants, particularly particulate pollutants such as PM_2.5And PM₁₀Or the cleaning efficacy of oxidizing contaminants such as ozone and peroxides. The results of this approach can potentially be used for the relative ranking of various cosmetic compositions belonging to the same product category, such as soap-based cleansers versus non-soap surfactant-based cleansers; or even relative grading between two or more products belonging to different product categories as desired, e.g., facial cream versus lotion. The method may also be used to determine the efficacy of one or more active ingredients, such as film formers and polymers, by appropriately formulating candidate compositions to be tested. In addition, the method of the present invention may also be used as a display tool for consumers to promote or incentivize new or existing cosmetic cleaning compositions. The results of this method can also be used to support alleged effects. In addition, the overall efficacy of the cosmetic composition so evaluated can be used for communication or even printed as package back information.