阅读说明：本技术 一种铜氨长丝色织高档面料的加工方法 (Processing method of cuprammonium filament yarn-dyed high-grade fabric ) 是由 王平 王庆淼 鱼水朋 罗潇 周杭 江伟权 于 2021-09-14 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明公开的铜氨长丝色织高档面料的加工方法,工艺流程为：铜氨长丝加捻、筒管涤纶线包覆、松纱、染纱、织造和坯布后整理,染纱包括纯碱前处理工序和染色工序,纯碱前处理工序采用的前处理剂的配方为：前处理精炼剂2-4 g/L、纯碱2～4 g/L、质量浓度27.5%的双氧水1～5g/L,纯碱前处理工序中的保温温度为80～110℃、保温时间为30～60分钟、水流采用双向循环模式；染色工序采用活性染料,染色后采用浓度为5～10 g/L的纯碱溶液作为固色剂进行固色。该加工方法的制成率高,加工得到的面料的强力和物理测试指标高,颜色均匀性良好,纤维损伤小,利用率高,且面料手感柔滑、光泽优雅,是高档服装的首选面料。(The invention discloses a processing method of a cuprammonium long filament yarn dyed high-grade fabric, which comprises the following process flows of: twisting cuprammonium filament, bobbin polyester thread coating, yarn loosening, yarn dyeing, weaving and grey cloth after-finishing, wherein the yarn dyeing comprises a soda pretreatment process and a dyeing process, and the formula of a pretreatment agent adopted in the soda pretreatment process is as follows: 2-4g/L of a pretreatment refining agent, 2-4g/L of soda ash and 1-5 g/L of hydrogen peroxide with the mass concentration of 27.5%, wherein the heat preservation temperature in the pretreatment process of the soda ash is 80-110 ℃, the heat preservation time is 30-60 minutes, and the water flow adopts a bidirectional circulation mode; reactive dye is adopted in the dyeing process, and after dyeing, a soda solution with the concentration of 5-10 g/L is adopted as a color fixing agent for fixing color. The processing method has the advantages of high yield, high strength and physical test index of the processed fabric, good color uniformity, small fiber damage, high utilization rate, soft and smooth hand feeling and elegant luster of the fabric, and is a preferred fabric for high-grade clothes.)

1. A processing method of a cuprammonium filament yarn-dyed high-grade fabric is characterized by comprising the following process flows: the method comprises the following steps of twisting cuprammonium filament, coating bobbin polyester yarn, loosening yarn, dyeing yarn, weaving and finishing grey cloth, wherein the yarn dyeing comprises a soda pretreatment process and a dyeing process, and the formula of a pretreatment agent adopted in the soda pretreatment process is as follows: 2-4g/L of a pretreatment refining agent, 2-4g/L of soda ash and 1-5 g/L of hydrogen peroxide with the mass concentration of 27.5%, wherein the heat preservation temperature in the soda ash pretreatment process is 80-110 ℃, the heat preservation time is 30-60 minutes, and the water flow adopts a bidirectional circulation mode of firstly 4 minutes from inside to outside and then 6 minutes from outside to inside or a bidirectional circulation mode of firstly 3 minutes from inside to outside and then 7 minutes from outside to inside; the dyeing process adopts reactive dye, and after dyeing, the color is fixed by adopting a soda solution with the concentration of 5-10 g/L as a color fixing agent.

2. The processing method of the cuprammonium filament yarn-dyed high-grade fabric according to claim 1, wherein the pretreatment refining agent is a refining agent produced by Hensmei corporationONE three-in-ONE bleaching treatment agent.

3. The processing method of the cuprammonium filament yarn-dyed high-grade fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that an air jet loom is adopted for weaving, cuprammonium cheese is transversely placed on a table top of the air jet loom, and the speed of the air jet loom is 400-550 revolutions per minute in the weaving process.

4. The processing method of the cuprammonium filament yarn-dyed high-grade fabric according to claim 1, wherein the bobbin polyester yarn is coated with: the polyester yarn with a certain thickness is coated on a truncated cone-shaped plastic bobbin with a hole on the surface and a bottom angle of 82-88 degrees.

5. The processing method of the cuprammonium filament yarn-dyed high-grade fabric according to claim 4, wherein the loose yarns are: the twisted cuprammonium long filament is loosely twined on the plastic bobbin coated with the polyester thread, and the loose yarn density of the coated twisted cuprammonium long filament is 0.35-0.40 g/cm³And obtaining the copper ammonia cheese.

6. The processing method of the cuprammonium filament yarn-dyed high-grade fabric according to claim 5, wherein the weight of the polyester thread coated on each plastic bobbin is 60-140 g, and the weight of the coated twisted cuprammonium filament is 300-600 g.

7. The processing method of the cuprammonium filament yarn-dyed high-grade fabric according to claim 1, wherein the twisting of the cuprammonium filament is as follows: twisting pretreatment is carried out on the raw yarn of the cuprammonium rayon filament, and the twist degree of twisting ranges from 500 to 1200 TPM.

8. The processing method of the cuprammonium filament yarn-dyed high-grade fabric according to claim 7, wherein the raw yarn of the cuprammonium filament is FDY filament with a yarn count specification of 50D/45F, 75D/54F, 100D/60F, 120D/90F or 150D/90F.

9. The processing method of the cuprammonium filament yarn-dyed high-grade fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that the after-treatment of the grey fabric comprises the following steps: the method comprises the following steps of blank detection, singeing, desizing, liquid ammonia finishing, shaping and preshrinking, wherein the blank detection, singeing and desizing respectively adopt a known process, the liquid ammonia finishing speed is 50-70 m/min, and the shaping and preshrinking adopt a known shaping and preshrinking process of cotton fabric.

10. The processing method of the cuprammonium filament yarn-dyed high-grade fabric according to claim 9, characterized in that when the processed cuprammonium filament yarn-dyed high-grade fabric is an elastic fabric, a dry fabric setting procedure is added between the desizing procedure and the liquid ammonia finishing procedure, the temperature of the dry fabric setting procedure is 150-200 ℃, and the vehicle speed is 30-80 m/min.

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the field of textiles, and particularly relates to a processing method of a cuprammonium long filament yarn dyed high-grade fabric.

Background

With the continuous improvement of the spirit and physical living standard of people, people pursue textile clothes more and more. In the field of textile and clothing, real silk products are always high-grade luxury representative fabrics, but in recent years, with the rising of the price of raw material real silk, finished real silk products are not easy to manage and need regular maintenance and nursing, and the factors reduce the consumer market popularization of real silk products to a certain extent.

The appearance of the copper ammonia filament fiber can be comparable to that of real silk. The cuprammonium rayon fiber belongs to an environment-friendly and naturally degradable material, not only retains the performances of moisture absorption, air permeability, refreshing, softness, comfort, antistatic property, easy cleaning and the like of cotton fiber, but also integrates the luster, brightness and draping feeling of real silk, and in addition, the cuprammonium rayon fiber is lower in price than the real silk, so the cuprammonium rayon fiber is a fiber with high cost performance. The copper ammonia fabric made of the copper ammonia filament fibers is low in cost and is a high-grade fabric with high cost performance, but the popularization of the copper ammonia fabric is limited because the following technical difficulties exist in the current copper ammonia fabric processing: 1) the cuprammonium rayon fiber is extremely fine and smooth, the fiber affinity is high, and meanwhile, the cross section of the cuprammonium rayon fiber is circular, the fiber structure is uniform, the dyeing affinity is high, so that the dyeing and coloring are fast, the coloring rate is high, but the dyeing is easy to dye flowers and dye deeply, and the dyeing difficulty is high; 2) the cuprammonium rayon is relatively smooth, and as the conventional weaving process is adopted, even if a high-efficiency air jet loom is used, air flow is easy to blow away fibers during weaving and easily slips off a yarn drum, so that the cloth cover has a dense path, and the weaving rate and the appearance of ready-made clothes are influenced; 3) the copper ammonia fiber has poor acid resistance and alkali resistance, so the process requirements on the yarn pretreatment bleaching, the after-finishing mercerization and the like are extremely high. In view of the technical difficulties of dyeing, scouring and bleaching the cuprammonium fabric and the like, most cuprammonium fabrics on the market are mainly dyed in a piece manner, so that the fabrics have the problems of single pattern color, lack of luster and hand feeling and the like.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to solve the technical problem that the processing method of the cuprammonium long filament yarn-dyed high-grade fabric is provided aiming at the defects of the prior art, the processing method is high in production rate, the processed cuprammonium long filament yarn-dyed high-grade fabric is high in strength and physical test index, good in color uniformity, small in fiber damage, high in utilization rate, soft and smooth in hand feeling and elegant in luster, and the processing method is a preferred fabric of high-grade clothes.

The technical scheme adopted by the invention for solving the technical problems is as follows: a processing method of a cuprammonium filament yarn-dyed high-grade fabric comprises the following process flows: the method comprises the following steps of twisting cuprammonium filament, coating bobbin polyester yarn, loosening yarn, dyeing yarn, weaving and finishing grey cloth, wherein the yarn dyeing comprises a soda pretreatment process and a dyeing process, and the formula of a pretreatment agent adopted in the soda pretreatment process is as follows: 2-4g/L of a pretreatment refining agent, 2-4g/L of soda ash and 1-5 g/L of hydrogen peroxide with the mass concentration of 27.5%, wherein the heat preservation temperature in the soda ash pretreatment process is 80-110 ℃, the heat preservation time is 30-60 minutes, and the water flow adopts a bidirectional circulation mode of firstly 4 minutes from inside to outside and then 6 minutes from outside to inside or a bidirectional circulation mode of firstly 3 minutes from inside to outside and then 7 minutes from outside to inside; the dyeing process adopts reactive dye, and after dyeing, the color is fixed by adopting a soda solution with the concentration of 5-10 g/L as a color fixing agent.

The processing method of the cuprammonium rayon yarn-dyed high-grade fabric firstly carries out twisting pretreatment on cuprammonium rayon filaments, aims to facilitate subsequent yarn loosening and weaving processing, enables fibers not to be loose easily, improves processing efficiency and cloth cover quality, facilitates dye liquor to penetrate through cheese easily in the yarn dyeing process, reduces inner and outer layer color difference of the cheese, and ensures dyeing uniformity and the finished product yield. The reactive dye used in the dyeing step is a commercially available product. Because of the smooth long filament of cuprammonium, the easy whole slippage in the back stage of backing-off, the dacron line cladding of bobbin can be at the dacron line of bobbin surface pre-cladding formation certain thickness to effectively avoid the slippage of cuprammonium long filament, in addition, behind the dacron line of certain thickness of bobbin surface pre-cladding, even the bobbin produces the burr because of reasons such as production transportation, is difficult to collude the yarn when follow-up yarn backing-off. The pretreatment process of the soda ash in the yarn dyeing process adopts a pretreatment agent and a pretreatment process with a specific formula instead of the conventional soda ash, so that the strength loss of the soda ash to the copper ammonia fiber can be avoided; after the dyeing process in the yarn dyeing process is finished, the soda solution with the concentration of 5-10 g/L is used as a color fixing agent for fixing color, so that the dye reaction speed is reduced, and the inner-layer and outer-layer color difference of the cheese caused by the excessively high dye reaction speed is avoided.

The processing method of the cuprammonium rayon yarn-dyed high-grade fabric can ensure the level-dyeing property of cuprammonium rayon filaments in the process of cylinder dyeing, the forming stability of cone yarns, the weaving efficiency and the cloth cover effect by twisting the cuprammonium rayon filaments, coating the bobbin polyester yarns, adopting the specific procedures of soda pretreatment, dyeing and the like, ensure that the production rate of the cuprammonium rayon filaments yarn-dyed high-grade fabric reaches more than 98 percent, can expand the yarn-dyed cloth variety of cuprammonium rayon products, realize different yarn ratios, meet the requirements of the color and pattern diversity of the fabric, enrich the types of the cuprammonium rayon yarn-dyed products, and the processed cuprammonium rayon filament yarn-dyed high-grade fabric has high strength and physical test indexes, good color uniformity, small fiber damage, high utilization rate, soft hand feeling and elegant luster, and is a preferred fabric for high-grade clothing.

Preferably, the pretreatment refining agent is a refining agent produced by HensmanONE three-in-ONE bleaching treatment agent.

Preferably, the weaving adopts an air jet loom, copper ammonia cheese is transversely placed on a table top of the air jet loom, and the speed of the air jet loom is 400-550 revolutions per minute in the weaving process. Because the bobbin yarn which is vertically arranged is easy to damage and form and easy to slip with yarn, the invention can effectively solve the problems by transversely arranging the cuprammonium bobbin yarn and limiting the speed of the air jet loom.

Preferably, the bobbin polyester yarn is coated with: the polyester yarn with a certain thickness is coated on a truncated cone-shaped plastic bobbin with a hole on the surface and a bottom angle of 82-88 degrees. The plastic bobbin is less likely to be caught and stuck when the yarn is unwound.

Preferably, the loose yarn is: the twisted cuprammonium long filament is loosely twined on the plastic bobbin coated with the polyester thread, and the loose yarn density of the coated twisted cuprammonium long filament is 0.35-0.40 g/cm³And obtaining the copper ammonia cheese. 0.35-0.40 g/cm cuprammonium filament³The loose yarn density can ensure the dyeing uniformity.

Preferably, the weight of the polyester thread coated on each plastic bobbin is 60-140 g, and the weight of the coated twisted cuprammonium filament is 300-600 g. The coated copper ammonia filament is not required to be too much, so that the formation of internal and external color difference in the subsequent dyeing process is avoided.

Preferably, the cuprammonium filament twisting is as follows: twisting pretreatment is carried out on the raw yarn of the cuprammonium rayon filament, and the twist degree of twisting ranges from 500 to 1200 TPM.

Preferably, the raw yarn of the cuprammonium rayon filament is FDY filament with the yarn count specification of 50D/45F, 75D/54F, 100D/60F, 120D/90F or 150D/90F.

Preferably, the finishing of the grey cloth comprises the following steps: the method comprises the following steps of blank detection, singeing, desizing, liquid ammonia finishing, shaping and preshrinking, wherein the blank detection, singeing and desizing respectively adopt a known process, the liquid ammonia finishing speed is 50-70 m/min, and the shaping and preshrinking adopt a known shaping and preshrinking process of cotton fabric. The liquid ammonia finishing is a high-grade mild mercerizing process, does not generate strong damage to the copper ammonia fibers, and can improve the luster and the dimensional stability of the copper ammonia fibers.

Preferably, when the processed cuprammonium rayon yarn-dyed high-grade fabric is elastic, a dry cloth shaping process is added between the desizing process and the liquid ammonia finishing process, the temperature of the dry cloth shaping process is 150-200 ℃, and the vehicle speed is 30-80 m/min.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following advantages: the processing method of the cuprammonium rayon yarn-dyed high-grade fabric can ensure the level-dyeing property of cuprammonium rayon filaments in the process of cylinder dyeing, the forming stability of cone yarns, the weaving efficiency and the cloth cover effect by twisting the cuprammonium rayon filaments, coating the bobbin polyester yarns, adopting the specific procedures of soda pretreatment, dyeing and the like, ensure that the production rate of the cuprammonium rayon filaments yarn-dyed high-grade fabric reaches more than 98 percent, can expand the yarn-dyed cloth variety of cuprammonium rayon products, realize different yarn ratios, meet the requirements of the color and pattern diversity of the fabric, enrich the types of the cuprammonium rayon yarn-dyed products, and the processed cuprammonium rayon filament yarn-dyed high-grade fabric has high strength and physical test indexes, good color uniformity, small fiber damage, high utilization rate, soft hand feeling and elegant luster, and is a preferred fabric for high-grade clothing.

Detailed Description

The present invention will be described in further detail with reference to examples.

Example 1: the specification of the fabric is CPT100/2 CU100D/60F 150 100, and the fabric is made of cuprammonium rayon filaments blue yarn-dyed high-grade fabric.

In the specification of the fabric of example 1, CPT100/2 refers to compact spun pure cotton 100 english plied yarns, CU100D/60F refers to cuprammonium rayon with a yarn count of 100D and a hole number of 60F, and the fabric comprises the following components: 55% of cotton and 45% of cuprammonium fibers. The processing process flow of the fabric is as follows:

the weft yarn CU100D/60F base yarn was first twisted, the twist being added to 760 TPM. Selecting a circular truncated cone-shaped plastic bobbin with a hole on the surface, a bottom angle of 86 degrees and a weight of 140g, coating the circular truncated cone-shaped plastic bobbin with 40S/2 terylene half-bleached yarn, wherein the coating weight is 100g, and reserving the circular truncated cone-shaped plastic bobbin after coating. Then the twisted cuprammonium long filament is loosened and twined on a plastic bobbin coated with polyester semi-bleaching yarn, and the loose yarn density of the coated twisted cuprammonium long filament is 0.38g/cm³The weight of the single yarn is 0.6kg, and the copper ammonia cheese is obtained. Filling the cheese into an overflow cheese dyeing cylinder for soda pretreatment and dyeing, wherein the formula of a pretreatment agent adopted in the soda pretreatment process is as follows: 2g/L of a pretreatment refining agent, 4g/L of soda ash and 4g/L of hydrogen peroxide with the mass concentration of 27.5 percent, wherein the heat preservation temperature in the soda ash pretreatment process is 100 ℃, the heat preservation time is 30 minutes, and the water flow adopts a bidirectional circulation mode of firstly 4 minutes from inside to outside and then 6 minutes from outside to inside; the dyeing procedure adopts a commercial reactive dye: and 0.4 percent (owf) of Sumifix Supra Blue BRF, performing heat preservation and color fixation by using a soda solution with the concentration of 5g/L after dyeing, and performing spooling treatment on a standby plastic bobbin coated with the polyester yarn after dyeing is finished to prepare weft yarn. And (3) warp-wise pure cotton CPT100/2 is subjected to a conventional pure cotton cone yarn dyeing process and is subjected to warping slashing. And weaving by adopting an air jet loom, transversely placing the copper ammonia cheese on a table top of the air jet loom, and making the air jet loom rotate at the speed of 500 rpm in the weaving process to obtain the grey cloth.

Then, after-finishing the grey cloth, and sequentially performing the procedures of blank detection, singeing, desizing, liquid ammonia finishing, sizing, preshrinking and the like on the grey cloth. The blank detection, singeing and desizing respectively adopt the known process same as the conventional cotton fabric, the liquid ammonia finishing speed is 60m/min, and the shaping and preshrinking adopt the known shaping and preshrinking process of the cotton fabric. Finally, the CPT100/2 CU100D/60F 150 CU100 cuprammonium filament blue yarn-dyed high-grade fabric with uniform cloth cover color, light and elegant luster and meeting the test indexes is obtained, and the performance test result is shown in table 1.

Table 1: performance test results of CPT100/2 CU100D/60F 150 100 fabric

Example 2: the specification of the fabric is CPT100/2 CU100D/60F + DL40+40D (1:1) 140X 110, and the color copper ammonia filament yarn-dyed high-grade fabric is processed.

In the fabric specification of example 2, CPT100/2 refers to compact spinning pure cotton 100 english plied yarns, CU100D/60F refers to cuprammonia yarn with yarn count thickness of 100D and hole number of 60F, DL40+40D refers to cotton covered spandex yarn, i.e. spandex of 40 english cotton core-spun 40D, and the fabric has the following components: 74% of cotton, 23% of copper ammonia fiber and 3% of spandex. The processing process flow of the fabric is as follows:

the weft yarn CU100D/60F base yarn was first twisted, the twist being added to 800 TPM. A circular truncated cone-shaped plastic bobbin with a hole on the surface, a bottom angle of 85 degrees and a weight of 140g is selected, 60S/3 polyester semi-bleached yarn is used for coating, the weight of the plastic bobbin is 120g, and the plastic bobbin is reserved after coating. Then the twisted cuprammonium long filament is loosened and twined on a plastic bobbin coated with polyester semi-bleaching yarn, and the loose yarn density of the coated twisted cuprammonium long filament is 0.37g/cm³The weight of the single yarn is 0.5kg, and the copper ammonia cheese is obtained. Filling the cheese into an overflow cheese dyeing cylinder for soda pretreatment and dyeing, wherein the formula of a pretreatment agent adopted in the soda pretreatment process is as follows: 2g/L of a pretreatment refining agent, 3g/L of soda ash and 4g/L of hydrogen peroxide with the mass concentration of 27.5 percent, wherein the heat preservation temperature in the soda ash pretreatment process is 100 ℃, the heat preservation time is 40 minutes, and the water flow adopts a bidirectional circulation mode of firstly conducting 3 minutes from inside to outside and then conducting 7 minutes from outside to inside; the dyeing procedure adopts a commercial reactive dye combined dye solution: 0.2 percent of Remazol Red RB, 0.2 percent of Remazol Yellow RNL and 0.14 percent of Remazol Blue R-X (owf), adopting a soda solution with the concentration of 5g/L for heat preservation and color fixation after dyeing, and selecting a standby plastic bobbin coated with polyester threads for spooling treatment after dyeing is finished to prepare weft. Warp pure cotton CPT100/2 and weft DL40+40D are dyed according to conventional pure cotton cone yarn dyeing process, CPT100/2 is warped and slashed, then an air jet loom is adopted for weaving, the weft yarns are respectively CU100D/60F and DL40+40D for alternate beating-up and cuprammonium cone is adopted for weavingThe sub-yarns are transversely placed on a creel, and the speed of an air jet loom is 480 revolutions per minute in the weaving process, so that the grey cloth is prepared.

Then, after-finishing the grey cloth, and sequentially performing the procedures of blank detection, singeing, desizing, dry cloth shaping, liquid ammonia finishing, shaping, preshrinking and the like on the grey cloth. The blank detection, singeing and desizing respectively adopt the known conventional cotton fabric process, the setting temperature of dry cloth is 180 ℃, the vehicle speed is 50m/min, the vehicle speed of liquid ammonia finishing is 50m/min, and the setting and preshrinking adopt the known setting and preshrinking process of the cotton fabric. Finally, the CPT100/2 CU100D/60F + DL40+40D (1:1) 140X 110 card high-grade copper ammonia filament yarn-dyed fabric with uniform cloth surface color, light and elegant luster and meeting the test indexes is obtained, and the performance test results are shown in Table 2.

Table 2: performance test results of PT100/2 CU100D/60F + DL40+40D (1:1) 140X 110 fabric

In the above examples, the pretreatment refining agent used was that produced by HensmanThe ONE three-in-ONE bleaching treating agent consists of complex dispersant, surfactant and hydrogen peroxide stabilizer, contains no APEO, is anionic liquid bleaching treating agent, has pH value of 5.5 at 10g/L and specific gravity of 1.1g/cm at 20 deg.c³The sodium hydroxide can be stored in a closed container at the temperature of 20 ℃ for one year, is sensitive to low temperature below 0 ℃ and high temperature above 40 ℃, has 100 percent of alkali-resistant stability to NaOH solution with the concentration of 250g/L, has good oxidant stability, has the viscosity (Rheomat 180, 25 ℃) less than 250mPas, and has the conductivity of about 15mS/cm at the temperature of 20 ℃.