阅读说明：本技术 一种抗老化牛仔面料的生产工艺 (Production process of anti-aging jean fabric ) 是由 黄敏 黄友洪 张晓东 朱晓英 温晓凤 于 2021-08-02 设计创作，主要内容包括：本申请提供一种抗老化牛仔面料的生产工艺,属于纺织品的硫化染料染色技术领域。将待处理纱线置于染液中进行染色处理,所述染液中,碱浓度为50-240g/L,硫化黑浓度为80-220g/L,染色温度70-105℃。将本申请应用于牛仔经纱的染色处理,具有染色工序简单、改善面料抗老化性能等优点。(The application provides a production process of an anti-aging jean fabric, and belongs to the technical field of sulfur dye dyeing of textiles. Putting the yarn to be treated into a dye liquor for dyeing treatment, wherein the alkali concentration in the dye liquor is 50-240g/L, the sulfur black concentration is 80-220g/L, and the dyeing temperature is 70-105 ℃. The method is applied to dyeing treatment of the denim warp, and has the advantages of simple dyeing process, improvement of ageing resistance of the fabric and the like.)

1. The production process of the anti-aging jean fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps: placing the denim warp to be treated in a dye solution for dyeing treatment, wherein the alkali concentration in the dye solution is 50-240g/L, the sulfur black concentration is 80-220g/L, and the dyeing temperature is 70-105 ℃.

2. The production process of the anti-aging denim fabric according to claim 1, characterized by comprising the following steps: the alkali concentration is 100-200 g/L.

3. The production process of the anti-aging denim fabric according to claim 1, characterized by comprising the following steps: the alkali is sodium hydroxide solution.

4. The production process of the anti-aging denim fabric according to claim 1, characterized by comprising the following steps: the concentration of the sulfur black is 80-120 g/L.

5. The production process of the anti-aging denim fabric according to claim 1, characterized by comprising the following steps: the dyeing temperature is 90-95 ℃.

6. The production process of the anti-aging denim fabric according to claim 1, characterized by comprising the following steps: in the dye solution, the alkali concentration is 150g/L, the sulfur black concentration is 100g/L, and the dyeing temperature is 90 ℃.

7. The production process of the anti-aging denim fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized by comprising the following steps: the dye liquor is also added with a reducing agent, and the addition amount of the reducing agent is 0.3g/L-3 g/L.

8. The production process of the anti-aging denim fabric according to claim 7, characterized by comprising the following steps: the reducing agent is any one of thiourea dioxide, D-glucose, D-fructose and D-lactose.

9. The production process of the anti-aging denim fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized by comprising the following steps: the dye liquor is also added with a mercerizing penetrating agent, and the addition amount of the mercerizing penetrating agent is 5g/L-20 g/L.

10. The production process of the anti-aging denim fabric according to claim 9, characterized by comprising the following steps: the mercerizing penetrating agent is any two or more than two of a phenol-free mercerizing penetrating agent, sodium salt of alkyl alcohol sulfate, sodium salt of alkyl sulfonic acid, alcohol ether compounds, phosphate compounds, amino alcohol compounds, amide compounds and alcohol compounds.

Technical Field

The application relates to a production process of an anti-aging jean fabric, and belongs to the technical field of sulfur dye dyeing of textiles.

Background

The black fabric is mostly dyed by sulfur black, however, because of the existence of unstable polysulfide bonds in sulfur dye molecules, sulfur atoms can form sulfuric acid under certain temperature and humidity conditions, and further hydrolysis action can be generated on cellulose fibers in the jean fabric, so that the black fabric becomes brittle, the strength of the fabric is reduced, and the phenomenon is commonly called aging.

In order to solve the problem, people carry out special treatment on sulfur black dye to inhibit sulfur atoms, for example, in the dyeing practice, the brittle damage phenomenon of the fabric in a short time after the fabric is dyed is avoided by adopting the brittle damage prevention processes such as dyeing water washing, drying and the like. But aging damage can be accumulated for a long time, and finally, the fabric can still cause substantial damage, so that the fabric can reach the service life faster than other fabrics.

To combat aging, there is also an improvement in aging resistance: adding a high-alkali mercerizing tank before carrying out sulfur black dyeing on the yarns, and carrying out sulfur black dyeing after washing and drying processes. The strength of the vulcanized black fabric treated by the process after aging is improved. The method has the defects that the dyeing equipment needs to be additionally provided with an additional drying cylinder device, the complexity of the equipment is increased, the drying cost is increased, meanwhile, the yarn winding chance is increased, and the complexity of the dyeing operation is further increased.

Disclosure of Invention

In view of the above, the application provides a production process of an anti-aging jean fabric, which directly adds caustic soda into a dyeing liquid, and integrates high-alkali treatment and dyeing, thereby greatly simplifying equipment, reducing cost and complexity of operation, and obtaining consistent effect.

Specifically, the method is realized through the following scheme:

the production method of the anti-aging denim fabric comprises the step of placing yarns to be treated in a dye solution for dyeing treatment, wherein the alkali concentration in the dye solution is 50-240g/L, the sulfur black concentration in the dye solution is 80-220g/L, and the dyeing temperature is 70-105 ℃.

In the scheme, high-concentration alkali liquor is added into the dye liquor,

on one hand: the high-concentration alkali liquor in the dye liquor reacts with the cotton fibers of the warp yarns, so that the fibers swell to finally form the mercerized cellulose. Based on the mercerization theory, the alkali cellulose on the surface of the yarn subjected to high-alkali treatment has good dye uptake, so that the dye is gathered on the surface of the yarn, and the dye is prevented from permeating into the yarn. Thus, the warp yarns dyed with high alkali have a darker color than conventionally dyed yarns, while some of the fibers inside the yarn are not dyed.

On the other hand: the high-alkali treatment and the dyeing treatment are carried out in one dye vat, alkali liquor and dye with corresponding concentration can be directly added when materials are added, the operation complexity is reduced, the investment of equipment such as a mercerizing tank and a drying drum is reduced, after dyeing is finished, the conventional drying procedure can be directly transferred to be dried, and the complexity and the equipment investment of dyeing post-treatment are reduced.

In conclusion, the high-alkali dyeing process can be applied to any vulcanization dyeing concentration. The dyeing concentration depends on the requirement of the fabric on color depth. When the dye concentration is lower, the damage of aging to the fabric is relatively light, and the application of a high-alkali process has little significance in improving the aging resistance; when the dye concentration is extremely high, the effect of the high-alkali dyeing process is not enough to compensate the aging damage of the fabric, so that the dyeing process with extremely high concentration is avoided in practice. In general, 80-220g/L is a suitable range.

Further, as preferable:

the alkali concentration is 100-200 g/L. In carrying out the dyeing process, we found that: when the alkali concentration is lower than 100g/L, the action between alkali and cellulose is weak, a remarkable mercerizing effect cannot be formed, and the anti-aging level of the fabric is improved to a relatively low degree, such as a level of less than 5%. With the increase of alkali concentration, the mercerizing effect becomes more obvious, and the color yield increase and the ring dyeing effect enhancement are shown. According to the mercerizing theory, when the alkali concentration reaches 250g/L, the mercerizing effect can reach a more ideal degree. However, based on practical experience of yarn dyeing, when the alkali concentration reaches 220g/L, yarn dyeing operation is very difficult, and frequent yarn winding and yarn breaking are not favorable for normal production. Based on this, 100-200g/L is preferred as a more suitable process range, and 150-200g/L is selected as the most preferred process. The degree of improving the anti-aging performance can reach 25 percent.

The alkali is sodium hydroxide aqueous solution.

The dyeing temperature is 90-95 ℃. The influence of the temperature control on the dyeing effect in the dyeing process is more critical, and under the high-alkali environment of the scheme, the dyeing temperature control is more important, and the temperature directly influences the dyeing rate and the dyeing fastness of the dye. The dye activity can be well maintained in the range of 70-105 ℃. However, when the temperature is lower than 90C, the color fastness is deteriorated with the decrease of the temperature, and when the temperature is close to 100C, the dye solution is splashed due to boiling, and the scalding accident of the operating worker occurs. A suitable temperature range is therefore selected between 90 and 95 ℃.

The dye liquor is also added with a reducing agent, and the addition amount of the reducing agent is 0.3g/L-3 g/L. More preferably, the reducing agent is any one of thiourea dioxide, D-glucose, D-fructose and D-lactose, and reduces the sulfur dye to a leuco state so that the leuco state can be dyed on the cotton yarn.

The dyeing liquid is also added with a mercerizing penetrating agent, the mercerizing penetrating agent is a phenol-free mercerizing penetrating agent and contains more than two of alkyl alcohol sulfate sodium salt, alkyl sulfonic acid sodium salt, alcohol ether compounds, phosphate compounds, amino alcohol compounds, amide compounds and alcohol compounds, the addition amount of the mercerizing penetrating agent is 5g/L-20g/L, warp dyeing of the denim fabric is raw yarn dyeing, the hygroscopicity is poor, and caustic soda and the dyeing liquid are difficult to penetrate into yarns. By means of the mercerizing penetrant, alkali liquor and dye liquor can be permeated rapidly, and mercerizing and dyeing of yarns are achieved.

Detailed Description

In the embodiment, the dyeing of the jean fabric is taken as a key technical treatment section, and other processes such as degreasing before dyeing, washing after dyeing, drying and the like are carried out by adopting conventional treatment.

And (4) testing standard:

(1) aging resistance: by adopting an AATCC-26 acceleration method, the aging damage degree, namely the aging resistance of the fabric, is reflected by comparing the strength of the fabric subjected to accelerated aging with the strength before aging.

(2) Color fastness: GB/T3921-2008 is adopted, and the color change condition of the fabric before and after soaping is observed in a soaping mode, so that the washing fastness of the dye is measured

Comparative example: conventional vulcanization dyeing

The conventional sulfur black dyeing process for comparison is as follows:

concentration of sulfur black: 100g/L, the concentration of sodium sulfide is 80g/L, and the concentration of penetrant is 6 g/L.

The dyeing temperature is 90 ℃, and the vehicle speed is 22 m/min.

Example 1: effect of alkali concentration on aging Properties

In the dyeing process of the present example, warp yarns of cotton polyester elastic jean fabric were treated, and the dyeing solution was tested for alkali concentration of 30g/L, 60g/L, 85g/L, 100g/L, 120g/L, 150g/L, 200g/L, and 220g/L at a dyeing temperature of 90 ℃ to confirm the influence of alkali concentration on the dyeing effect, and the results are shown in Table 1.

Table 1: effect of different alkali concentrations on aging Properties

As can be seen from Table 1, the alkali concentration has a substantial influence on both the aging behavior and the color fastness. The effect is, as is evident, both in the aged fracture strength and the aged tear strength.

From table 1, we can see that when the alkali concentration is at a lower level, both the aged breaking strength and the tearing strength are close to the conventional ones, but as the alkali concentration increases, the aged strength increases, which is significantly higher than that of the conventional dyeing. This is because the mercerizing effect of alkali on cotton fibers is insufficient at a lower alkali concentration. The higher the alkali concentration, the more efficient the effect, which is the higher the mercerized cellulose content, so that more dye molecules are bonded to the mercerized cellulose at the surface of the yarn and further the other dye molecules are prevented from entering the yarn interior. The fibers in the yarn are not affected by aging factors of the dye due to the fact that no sulfur dye molecules are attached, and good strength is kept. In other words, the increase in alkali concentration causes the sulfur dye to gather more on the surface of the yarn, and the fibers not affected by the dye inside are increased, so that the strength of the yarn is better.

When the alkali concentration is lower than 100G/L, the aging strength is only improved by about 5 percent compared with the conventional aging strength, but when the alkali concentration reaches 220G/L, the improvement degree can reach 20-25 percent. Particularly, when the alkali concentration is increased to more than 220g/L, the yarn running on the machine frequently winds the machine, so that the dyeing operation is difficult, the yarn breakage on the machine is frequent, and the production is difficult to smoothly carry out.

On the basis of the above example 1, we conducted parallel tests to determine whether there was the same trend in alkali concentration at different concentrations of the sulfur black, specifically the following examples 1-1, 1-2, 1-3, 1-4, and 1-5.

Examples 1 to 1

The test of the alkali concentration of 30g/L, 60g/L, 85g/L, 100g/L, 120g/L, 150g/L, 200g/L and 220g/L at a dyeing temperature of 90 ℃ in the replacement of the sulfur black was carried out in the same manner as in Table 1, i.e., the higher the alkali concentration, the better the effect of improving the aging properties.

Examples 1 to 2

The concentration of the replacement sulfur black was 60g/L, the dyeing temperature was 90 ℃, and the alkali concentrations of 30g/L, 60g/L, 85g/L, 100g/L, 120g/L, 150g/L, 200g/L and 220g/L were respectively tested to have the same tendency as that in Table 1, that is, the higher the alkali concentration is, the better the effect of improving the aging properties is.

Examples 1 to 3

The test of the alkali concentration of 30g/L, 60g/L, 85g/L, 100g/L, 120g/L, 150g/L, 200g/L and 220g/L at a dyeing temperature of 90 ℃ in the case of replacing the sulfur black with a concentration of 120g/L shows the same tendency as that in Table 1, that is, the higher the alkali concentration is, the better the effect of improving the aging properties is.

Examples 1 to 4

The test of the alkali concentration of 30g/L, 60g/L, 85g/L, 100g/L, 120g/L, 150g/L, 200g/L and 220g/L at a dyeing temperature of 85 ℃ and a replacement of the sulfur black concentration of 100g/L shows the same tendency as that in Table 1, that is, the higher the alkali concentration is, the better the effect of improving the aging properties is. But slightly lower in color fastness than at 90 ℃.

Examples 1 to 5

The concentrations of the replacement sulfur black were 100g/L and the dyeing temperature was 95 ℃ and the alkali concentrations of 30g/L, 60g/L, 85g/L, 100g/L, 120g/L, 150g/L, 200g/L and 220g/L were respectively tested to have the same tendency as that in Table 1, that is, the higher the alkali concentration is, the better the effect of improving the aging properties is. But in terms of color fastness, it is slightly improved from that at 90 ℃.

By comparing example 1 with examples 1-1, 1-2, 1-3, 1-4, 1-5, we can find that: in the selected range of the concentration and the temperature of the sulfur black, the influence trend of the alkali concentration on the denim fabric is the same when the treatment object is the same. That is, the higher the alkali concentration, the better the effect of improving aging properties

Example 2: effect of the concentration of Sulfur Black on the dye uptake

In the dyeing process of this example, warp yarns of cotton polyester elastic jean fabric were treated, and the alkali concentration in the dyeing solution was 150g/L, the dyeing temperature was 90 ℃ and the sulfur black concentrations were tested at 40g/L, 60g/L, 80g/L, 100g/L, 120g/L, 150g/L, 200g/L and 250g/L, respectively, and the effect of the sulfur black concentration on the dyeing effect was confirmed, and the results are shown in Table 2.

Table 2: effect of different concentrations of Black sulfide on aging Properties

As can be seen from Table 2, at a certain alkali concentration, the effect of the concentration of the sulfur black on the aging performance is shown in that the aging strength of the fabric is low along with the increase of the dyeing concentration, and when the concentration of the dye reaches 250g/L, the aging strength is lower than that of the conventional (100 g/L sulfur black) process. Meanwhile, in the aspect of dyeing color fastness, when the dye concentration is increased, the color fastness is also reduced.

On the other hand, when the dye concentration is low, such as below 60g/L, the aging strength is high, but the aging strength is enough to meet the performance requirement of the fabric even if the conventional dyeing process is adopted.

And in other aspects, the color fastness of the fabric is influenced by the change of the concentration of the sulfur black. The higher the concentration, the poorer the color fastness.

On the basis of the above example 2, we conducted parallel tests to determine whether the concentrations of sulfur black at different alkali concentrations have the same trend, specifically the following examples 2-1, 2-2, 2-3, and 2-4.

Example 2-1

The alkali concentration was 200g/L and the dyeing temperature was 90 ℃ to test the sulfur black concentrations of 40g/L, 60g/L, 80g/L, 100g/L, 120g/L, 150g/L, 200g/L and 250g/L, respectively, and the effect of the alkali concentration on the aging performance was confirmed, and the same tendency as in Table 2 was obtained, that is, the aging strength of the fabric was low as the dyeing concentration increased.

Examples 2 to 2

The alkali concentration was changed to 120g/L, and the dyeing temperature was 90 ℃ to test the sulfur black concentrations of 40g/L, 60g/L, 80g/L, 100g/L, 120g/L, 150g/L, 200g/L, and 250g/L, respectively, and the effect of the alkali concentration on the aging performance was confirmed, and the same tendency as in Table 2 was obtained, that is, the aging strength of the fabric was low as the dyeing concentration was increased.

Examples 2 to 3

The alkali concentration was 200g/L and the dyeing temperature was 95 ℃ and the sulfur black concentrations were tested at 40g/L, 60g/L, 80g/L, 100g/L, 120g/L, 150g/L, 200g/L and 250g/L, respectively, to confirm the effect of the alkali concentration on the aging performance, and the same tendency as in Table 2 was obtained, that is, the aging strength of the fabric was low as the dyeing concentration increased.

Examples 2 to 4

The alkali concentration was changed to 120g/L, the dyeing temperature was 95 ℃ and the sulfur black concentrations were tested to 40g/L, 60g/L, 80g/L, 100g/L, 120g/L, 150g/L, 200g/L and 250g/L, respectively, and the effect of the alkali concentration on the aging performance was confirmed, and the same tendency as in Table 2 was obtained, that is, the aging strength of the fabric was low as the dyeing concentration was increased.

Example 3: influence of temperature on the dyeing effect

In the dyeing process of the present example, warp yarns of cotton polyester elastic jean fabric were treated, and the alkali concentration in the dyeing solution was 150g/L, the dyeing concentration was 100g/L, and the influence of the temperature on the aging performance was confirmed at 70 ℃, 75 ℃, 80 ℃, 85 ℃, 95 ℃ and 98 ℃ respectively, and the results are shown in table 3.

Table 3: effect of different temperatures on aging Properties

It can be seen from table 3 that in the presence of a base, temperature also has some effect on the aging performance, and that lowering the temperature gives a better aging strength, but to a relatively lesser extent. In practice, the temperature effect on the dyeing is manifested primarily in terms of fastness, too low a temperature or a reduction in fastness or even no coloration, so that the temperature range selected is from 80 to 95 ℃.

And (4) conclusion: the high-concentration alkali is added into the dye liquor, so that the ageing resistance of the vulcanized black jean fabric can be improved; the higher the alkali concentration, the greater the degree of improvement, but too high an alkali concentration makes dyeing of the yarn difficult; the dye concentration itself also has an effect on the aging performance, with lower dye concentrations giving better aging performance. When the dye concentration is extremely low, the aging performance of the fabric can meet the aging performance requirement of the fabric, and alkali addition is not needed; temperature is also an influencing factor, but temperature has a greater influence on the color fastness and a relatively smaller influence on the ageing properties. From a practical point of view, it is not necessary to adjust the temperature control range widely.

In the above case, when the concentration of the sulfur black is 100g/L, any one of the following reducing agents can be added into the dye liquor:

(1) thiourea dioxide is a reducing agent, and the addition amount is 0.5 g/L;

(2) glucose is used as a reducing agent, and the addition amount is 1.5 g/L;

(3) d-fructose is a reducing agent, and the addition amount is 2 g/L;

(4) d-lactose sulfuration is used as a reducing agent, and the addition amount is 2.5 g/L.

At this time, the reducing agent is used in combination with the dye to reduce the sulfur dye to a leuco state, so that the sulfur dye can be dyed on the cotton yarn.

The warp dyeing of the jean fabric is raw yarn dyeing, the moisture absorption is poor, and caustic soda and dye liquor are difficult to permeate into the yarn. Therefore, in the above case, when the concentration of the sulfur black is 100g/L and the concentration of the sodium sulfide is 80g/L, any one of the following mercerizing penetrating agents is added for cooperation:

(1) the mercerizing penetrating agent is a phenol-free mercerizing penetrating agent and sodium alkyl alcohol sulfate as mercerizing penetrating agents, and the addition amount is 6+5 g/L;

(2) the phenol-free mercerizing penetrating agent and the sodium alkyl sulfonate are used as mercerizing penetrating agents, and the addition amount is 6+6 g/L;

(3) the non-phenol mercerizing penetrating agent and the alcohol ether compound are used as mercerizing penetrating agents, and the addition amount is 6+5 g/L;

(4) the phenol-free mercerizing penetrating agent and alcohol compounds are used as mercerizing penetrating agents, and the addition amount is 6+7 g/L;

(5) the phenol-free mercerizing penetrating agent and the phosphate compound are used as mercerizing penetrating agents, and the addition amount is 6+10 g/L;

(6) the phenol-free mercerizing penetrating agent and the amino alcohol compound are used as mercerizing penetrating agents, and the addition amount is 6+12 g/L;

(7) the non-phenol mercerizing penetrating agent and the amide compound are used as mercerizing penetrating agents, and the addition amount is 6+15 g/L.

At this time: by means of the mercerizing penetrant, alkali liquor and dye liquor can be permeated rapidly, and mercerizing and dyeing of yarns are achieved.