阅读说明：本技术 一种经纬莱赛尔包芯纱面料的加工方法 (Processing method of warp and weft Lyocell covering yarn fabric ) 是由 朱晓英 郑聪 黄友洪 温晓凤 张晓东 于 2021-08-02 设计创作，主要内容包括：本申请提供一种经纬莱赛尔包芯纱面料的加工方法,属于以纤维、长丝、纱、线或其他经、纬的材料、性能或结构为特征的机织织物技术领域。以紧密纺包芯纱作为原料,球经染色→分经→上浆→织造→后整理,即可获得经纬莱赛尔包芯纱面料。本案获取的面料制成的服装穿着舒适,通过后处理退浆,面料手感更加丝滑,悬垂性好。(The application provides a processing method of a warp and weft Lyocell covering yarn fabric, belonging to the technical field of woven fabrics which are characterized by the materials, properties or structures of fibers, filaments, yarns, threads or other warps and wefts. The compact spinning core-spun yarn is used as a raw material, and the warp and weft Lyocell core-spun yarn fabric can be obtained by ball warp dyeing → warp separation → sizing → weaving → after finishing. The clothes made of the fabric obtained by the scheme are comfortable to wear, and through aftertreatment desizing, the fabric feels smoother and has good drapability.)

1. A processing method of a warp and weft Lyocell covering yarn fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps: the compact spinning core-spun yarn is used as a raw material, firstly dyeing, then weaving and after finishing are carried out,

in the dyeing process, parallel warp yarn bundles are wound into a large sphere, a yarn divider is attached to the tail end of each yarn bundle to keep the relative positions of the yarns, the surface tension of the yarns is controlled to be 10-30cN, the running speed is 15-40m/min, the yarns are sent into a ball warp dyeing device through balls, the yarns are transferred into a dye solution for bundle dyeing, the dye solution contains 1.5-2g/L of indigo powder and 1.5-2.5g/L of bromoindigo, the dyeing temperature is 65-100 ℃, the bundle dyeing time is controlled to be 20-40s, and the oxidation time is 2-3.5 min;

winding into warp balls or directly warping and weaving, wherein in the weaving procedure, the machine-loading parameters are controlled as follows: the height of the back beam is 65-90mm, the height of the heald frame is 75-90mm, the multi-arm opening time is 260-290 DEG, and the weaving tension is controlled to 2200-2800N.

2. The method for processing the warp and weft lyocell core-spun yarn fabric according to claim 1, wherein the method comprises the following steps: the compact spinning core-spun yarn adopts T400 as core yarn and Lyocell fiber as outer covering yarn.

3. The processing method of the warp and weft lyocell core-spun yarn fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that the dye solution further comprises a liquid supplement, and the liquid supplement comprises the following components in concentration: the concentration of the indigo powder is 55-65g/L, the concentration of the bromoindigo is 75-85g/L, the concentration of the alkali liquor is 50-65g/L, and the concentration of the sodium hydrosulfite is 80-95 g/L.

4. The method for processing the warp and weft lyocell core-spun yarn fabric according to claim 3, wherein the method comprises the following steps: the alkali liquor is any one of sodium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, disodium hydrogen phosphate and sodium hydroxide.

5. The method for processing the warp and weft lyocell core-spun yarn fabric according to claim 1, wherein the method comprises the following steps: the dyeing method also comprises a permeation tank for permeation treatment before dyeing, wherein the temperature of the permeation tank is 20-30 ℃, and the concentration of a penetrant is 20-30 g/L.

6. The method for processing the warp and weft lyocell core-spun yarn fabric according to claim 5, wherein the method comprises the following steps: the penetrating agent is any one of alkali-resistant penetrating agent OEP-70, alkali-resistant penetrating agent AEP and nonionic JFC.

7. The method for processing the warp and weft lyocell core-spun yarn fabric according to claim 5, wherein the method comprises the following steps: the infiltration treatment also comprises a water washing procedure, wherein the water washing temperature is 40-70 ℃, and the water washing time is 10-30 min.

8. The processing method of the warp and weft lyocell core-spun yarn fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that the dyeing process further comprises a softening treatment, and the air flow softening finishing is adopted: the inclination angle of the outlet jet flow is 8-12 degrees, the number of the nozzles is 4-6, the diameter of the nozzle is 100mm, the height of the nozzle from the fabric is 45-55mm, and the distance between the nozzles is 500 mm.

9. The processing method of the warp and weft lyocell core-spun yarn fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that the dyeing process further comprises a sizing process, wherein the sizing temperature is 90-95 ℃, and the speed is 50-70 m/min; the slurry contained the following concentrations of the components: starch with the concentration of 7-9 percent, environment-friendly slurry YB-III all-round type auxiliary agent with the concentration of 0.5-1.5 percent, and the balance of water.

10. The method for processing the warp and weft lyocell core-spun yarn fabric according to claim 1, wherein the method comprises the following steps: the post-finishing comprises the steps of forward and reverse light singeing, desizing treatment by releasing desizing enzyme,

the desizing enzyme is formulated as follows:

biological enzyme: 2g/L of the mixture is added,

activating agent: 4g/L of the mixture is added,

penetrant: 2 g/L;

the desizing treatment process flow is as follows: water soaking at 70 deg.C → pH6-7, 60 deg.C, biological enzyme soaking → retention rate 110-.

Technical Field

The application relates to a processing method of a warp and weft Lyocell covering yarn fabric, belonging to the technical field of woven fabrics which are characterized by the materials, properties or structures of fibers, filaments, yarns, threads or other warps and wefts.

Background

The denim is mainly dyed by indigo, and is different from the common blue cloth in that only warp yarns are dyed, and weft yarns are undyed or dyed in light gray, so that the denim looks unique. However, indigo dye is insoluble in water, has no affinity to fibers, cannot be directly used for dyeing, and can dye fibers only after being reduced under alkaline conditions to generate alkaline leuco bodies. However, the dye after the indigo leuco body is oxidized is in a crystal shape, the color is not bright enough and cannot meet one of the requirements for a long time, the deep color is more prominent, the affinity of the dye leuco body and the fiber is low, the deep and thick color cannot be easily dyed, meanwhile, the dye transfer performance is poor, the dye leuco body is used for yarn dyeing, most of the dye leuco body cannot be in a ring dyeing shape by using a permeable core, especially, the dye leuco body is sensitive to the change of pH and temperature, uniform dyeing effect cannot be easily obtained, and the problem of chromatic aberration in middle edge is easily caused. Therefore, the dyeing rate of the indigo dye is slower than that of the common vat dye, the dyeing deficiency often occurs, the dye-uptake rate is low, the left-middle-right color difference is easy to occur, and the color difference between batches is likely to be obvious.

Woven fabrics are common in the daily use of fabrics. However, due to poor controllability of tension during weaving, defects such as square holes and the like easily appear on the woven fabric, and later-stage remediation is needed. In several common dyeing modes, plant fibers such as tencel are mainly dyed by indigo dye, and although the indigo dye is environment-friendly and safe, the indigo dye is dull in color and poor in color fastness, and the wearability of woven fabrics with insufficiently compact structures is obviously not ideal.

Disclosure of Invention

In view of the above, the application provides a processing method of a warp and weft lyocell core-spun yarn fabric, and the fabric prepared by the method is silkier in hand feeling, good in drapability and better in wearing comfort when made into clothes.

Specifically, the method is realized through the following scheme:

a processing method of warp and weft Lyocell covering yarn fabric takes compact spinning covering yarn as raw material, firstly carries out dyeing, then carries out weaving and after finishing,

in the dyeing process, parallel warp yarn bundles are wound into a large ball shape, a yarn divider is attached to the tail end of each yarn bundle to keep the relative positions of the yarns, the yarn tension is controlled to be 10-30CN, the running speed is 15-40m/min, the yarns are sent into ball warp dyeing equipment through balls, the yarns are transferred into a dye solution for bundle dyeing, the dye solution contains 1.5-2g/L of indigo powder and 1.5-2.5g/L of bromoindigo, the dyeing temperature is 65-100 ℃, the bundle dyeing time is controlled to be 20-40s, and the oxidation time is 2-3.5min to complete dyeing;

winding into warp balls or directly warping and weaving, wherein in the weaving procedure, the machine-loading parameters are controlled as follows: the height of the back beam is 65-90mm, the height of the heald frame is 75-90mm, the multi-arm opening time is 260-290 DEG, and the weaving tension is controlled to 2200-2800N.

When the yarn enters the dye vat, when a conventional sheet yarn dyeing machine is adopted, each yarn is not connected together, so that the tension borne by the yarns is not interfered with each other, the tension on the whole sheet of yarn entering the dye vat cannot be kept the same, and the sheet yarn can generate edge-to-edge color difference. In the scheme, during ball warp dyeing, the tension is reduced, the vehicle speed is reduced, the dip dyeing/beam dyeing and oxidation time is prolonged, indigo powder and bromoindigo are used as dyeing elements in a dyeing solution, the composite dye makes up the defects that the indigo dye is relatively tender and sensitive in process and is easy to generate chromatic aberration, and the dyed color is more bright and beautiful; in the weaving process, the height of the back beam, the height of the heald frame and the opening time of the multi-arm are reduced, so that the broken warp rate is reduced, the broken edges and weft shrinkage are reduced by increasing the heald leveling time, the cloth cover quality is controlled by matching with smaller tension, and defects such as square eyes and the like are avoided.

Further, as preferable:

the compact spinning covering yarn adopts T400 as core yarn and Lyocell fiber covering yarn, and other parameters are set as follows: the T400 preferably adopts 30D, has better fineness and elasticity, and the core-spun yarn preferably adopts 30S, so that the thickness requirement of the spring and autumn jean fabric is met. The T400 is adopted instead of spandex as the core yarn, so that the fabric has more lasting elastic recovery performance, bulges are easily generated at the elbows, knees and other places with larger bending deformation for a long time in the wearing process of the spandex fabric, the appearance of the fabric is influenced, and the T400 fabric well solves the problem.

In the dyeing process, the concentration of the dye liquor is reduced, so that besides the normal concentration of the liquor (namely the base liquor) in the initial dye vat, the liquor replenishing is also configured in the scheme, and the concentration of the dye liquor is replenished in time, so that the components of the dye liquor comprise the base liquor (the normal concentration of the liquor in the dye vat) and the liquor replenishing, and the base liquor is composed of the following components: indigo powder with the concentration of 1.5-2g/L and bromoindigo with the concentration of 1.5-2.5 g/L; the fluid infusion comprises the following components in concentration: the concentration of the indigo powder is 55-65g/L, the concentration of the bromoindigo is 75-85g/L, the concentration of the alkali liquor is 50-65g/L, and the concentration of the sodium hydrosulfite is 80-95 g/L.

Among the above parameters:

the addition of the alkali liquor can realize the control of the pH value of the dye liquor, and the affinity of the dye to the fiber can be influenced by the pH value, so that the dye uptake rate difference is shown as follows: when the pH value is less than 7, the dyeing liquor is nonionic leuco acid, the pH value is increased, the single ion particles of the indigo leuco body are increased, and the dyeing liquor has quite high affinity to cotton fibers, so that the dye uptake is high; if the pH value exceeds 12, double-ion particles of the indigo stealth body appear, the affinity to cotton fibers is reduced, and the dyeing is difficult. Therefore, if the pH value is unstable, the dye uptake on the yarn is also different, resulting in a color difference between the front and the rear. The pH is controlled by the concentration of the alkali liquor, so that the pH value stability is high, the fluctuation is small, and particularly, any one of sodium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, disodium hydrogen phosphate and sodium hydroxide is selected as the alkali liquor.

The reduction potential of the dye liquor depends on the concentration of the sodium hydrosulfite, and if the potential fluctuates, the color difference between the front and the back occurs. The reduction potential of the indigo is controlled to be between 760 and 800mV, the reduction potential of the bromoindigo is controlled to be between 760 and 820mV, and when the sodium hydrosulfite is insufficient, the sufficient reduction force of the dye solution cannot be maintained, so that the dye cannot be completely dissolved in the dye solution in a leuco body state. When the potential is too high, the using amount of the sodium hydrosulfite is too much, the dye is adsorbed on the surface of the warp, and the dye enters the next groove without being completely oxidized, is dissolved again and is leached from the warp, so that the color yield is low and the color is light. Therefore, the concentration of the sodium hydrosulfite in the solution is controlled to be 80-95g/L, the potential can be kept stable, and the stable dyeing and the no color difference are ensured.

The dyeing method also comprises a permeation tank for permeation treatment before dyeing, wherein the temperature of the permeation tank is 20-30 ℃, and the concentration of a penetrant is 20-30 g/L. More preferably 25g/L, the penetrating agent is any one of alkali-resistant penetrating agent OEP-70, alkali-resistant penetrating agent AEP and nonionic JFC, so that the surface tension of the solution is remarkably reduced, and the penetration of the dye liquor into the fiber is facilitated. The infiltration treatment also comprises a water washing procedure, wherein the water washing temperature is 40-70 ℃, and the water washing time is 10-30 min.

The dyeing process also comprises softening treatment, and airflow softening finishing is adopted: the angle of inclination of the outlet jet flow is 8-12 degrees, the number of the nozzles is 4-6, the size of the nozzles is 100mm, the height of the nozzles from the fabric is 45-55mm, and the distance between the nozzles is 500 mm.

The dyeing process also comprises a sizing process, wherein sizing is that a film is coated on the surface of the yarn, if the used sizing agent is unstable, chromatic aberration is generated, in order to reduce the chromatic aberration, the sizing temperature is 90-95 ℃, the speed is 50-70m/min, and the sizing agent comprises the following components in concentration: the concentration of the starch is 7-9%, the concentration of the environmental-friendly slurry YB-III all-round type auxiliary agent is 0.5-1.5%, and the balance is water.

The post-finishing comprises the steps of forward and reverse light singeing, desizing treatment by releasing desizing enzyme,

desizing enzyme was formulated as follows:

biological enzyme: 2g/L of the mixture is added,

activator (salt): 4g/L of the mixture is added,

penetrant: 2 g/L;

desizing treatment process flow: padding hot water (70 ℃) → padding bio-enzyme (pH6-7, 60 ℃) → retention rate 110-.

Detailed Description

Raw materials: TEL30(T40030D) compact spun core spun yarn

Specification: tight TEL30(T40030D) tight TEL21(T40030D)

Organizing: 2/1 right slant

The process comprises the following steps: ball warp dyeing → warp separation → sizing → weaving → after finishing

(1) And (3) ball warp dyeing:

in the whole process, 30% of tension is reduced on the basis of a conventional process, the dip dyeing and oxidation time is prolonged by reducing the vehicle speed, and the bromine indigo is added into the indigo to make the color more bright and beautiful.

Fiber components: TEL/N

The yarn type: core-spun yarn

Yarn count: 30 compact spinning

Dyeing vehicle speed: 25m/min

Example 1: the dye solution formula adopting indigo and bromoindigo comprises the following steps:

indigo concentration + bromoindigo concentration: 1.85+2.0g/L, indigo flow 20s/1

The process comprises the following steps: penetration No. 1 → washing No. 2#3 → washing No. 4#5#6#7#8#9#10# indigo (bromoindigo) → 16#17#18# washing Water → softening agent No. 19.

Table 1: the dye liquor formula table of the embodiment

Table 2: sizing formula table of the embodiment

Comparative example 1: the dye liquor formula which only adopts indigo powder comprises the following components:

the indigo concentration: 1.85g/L and the indigo flow rate is 20 s/1.

The process comprises the following steps: penetration No. 1 → washing No. 2#3 → washing No. 4#5#6#7#8#9#10# indigo → washing No. 16#17#18# water → softener No. 19.

Table 3: formula table of comparative example dye liquor

The sizing is the same as when a dye liquor of indigo + bromoindigo is used.

In the process of ball warp dyeing, warp separating and dyeing and finishing, 30 percent of tension is reduced in the conventional process, and the bromine indigo is added into the indigo to ensure that the color is more bright and beautiful by reducing the vehicle speed and increasing the dip dyeing and the Yanghua events.

(2) Weaving:

the back beam height, the heald frame height and the multi-arm opening time are adjusted to be low on the conventional machining process to reduce the broken warp rate, the heald leveling time is increased to reduce the phenomena of broken edges and weft shrinkage, the cloth cover quality can be controlled by adjusting small tension, and defects of square eyes are avoided.

Warp direction yarn count: 30(30) yarn counts, 5600 yarn counts, 175kg consumption, covering yarn;

weft yarn count: yarn count 21(30), dosage 10kg, core-spun yarn;

and (3) loading the machine with weft density: 53, reed number/reed entry: 14.2, loom reed width 168.5, grey cloth width: 164 +/-1 of the total weight of the mixture,

and (3) machine organization: 2/1 right slant (two-over-one-under-right slant), side organization: 48X 2(2/1)4 in

The ground tissue: 3.4.5.6.7.8.9.10.11.12

Table 4: machining process parameters

The back beam height, the palm frame height and the multi-arm shedding time are adjusted to be low on the conventional machining process to reduce the broken warp rate, the heald leveling time is increased to reduce the phenomena of broken edges and weft shrinkage, the cloth cover quality can be controlled by adjusting small tension, and defects of square eyes are avoided.

(3) And (3) after finishing: the front and back sides are lightly singed, desizing treatment is carried out by releasing desizing enzyme, and the following three groups can be adopted.

The first scheme is as follows: singeing the front and back sides lightly, desizing by discharging desizing enzyme, and drying and shrinking bright side (3021)

Warp and weft density of grey cloth: 112*54,

the requirement of inclined pulling: the slope after washing is not more than 1cm,

shrinkage rate: 3-5% of warp direction and 3-5% of weft direction.

Scheme II: pre-shrinking one time cloth cover is not bright, and the front and back sides are singed lightly (3021)

Warp and weft density of grey cloth: 112*54,

the requirement of inclined pulling: the slope after washing is not more than 1cm,

shrinkage rate: the warp direction is 2-4% and the weft direction is 3-5%.

The third scheme is as follows: pre-shrinking one time cloth cover is not bright, and front and back sides are light singeing (3030)

Warp and weft density of grey cloth: 112*63,

the requirement of inclined pulling: the slope after washing is not more than 1cm,

shrinkage rate: the warp direction is 2-4% and the weft direction is 3-5%.

Table 5: test data summary table for fabric in case

Table 6: test data summary table for fabric in case

The warp and weft of the fabric prepared by the scheme adopt the lyocell fiber wrapped with the T40030D high-stretch yarns, and the T400 high-stretch yarns are added on the basis that the original warp and weft adopt the lyocell fiber, so that the prepared garment is comfortable to wear, and the fabric feels smoother and drapable through post-treatment desizing.