阅读说明：本技术 增加用于处理角蛋白材料的试剂的稳定性 (Increasing the stability of agents for treating keratin materials ) 是由 T·莱希纳 G·韦泽 C·科隆科 C·克里纳 U·舒马赫 M·诺沃特尼 J·舍普根斯 于 2020-02-17 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明的目的是一种用于处理角蛋白材料,特别是人毛发的方法,所述方法包括将以下物质施涂于所述角蛋白材料-第一组合物(A),所述第一组合物(A)相对于该组合物(A)的总重量包含(A1)少于10重量％的水,以及(A2)一种或多种有机C-(1)-C-(6)烷氧基硅烷和/或其缩合产物,以及-第二组合物(B),所述第二组合物(B)包含(B1)水,(B2)至少一种第一表面活性剂,以及(B3)至少一种与所述第一表面活性剂(B2)在结构上不同的第二表面活性剂。(The object of the present invention is a method for treating keratin materials, in particular human hair, comprising the application to the keratin materials of a first composition (a) comprising (a1) less than 10% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition (a), and (a2) one or more organic C' s 1 ‑C 6 Alkoxysilane and/or condensation product thereof, and a second composition (B) comprising (B1) water, (B2) at least one first surfactant, and (B3) at least one surfactant different from the first surfactantA second surfactant different in structure from the surfactant (B2).)

1. A method for treating keratin materials, in particular human hair, comprising applying to the keratin materials:

-a first composition (a) comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition (a)

(A1) Less than 10% by weight of water, and

(A2) one or more organic C₁-C₆An alkoxysilane and/or a condensation product thereof,

and

-a second composition (B) comprising

(B1) The amount of water is controlled by the amount of water,

(B2) at least one first surfactant, and

(B3) at least one second surfactant structurally different from the first surfactant (B2).

2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the first composition (a) comprises from 0.01 to 9.5 wt. -%, preferably from 0.01 to 8.0 wt. -%, more preferably from 0.01 to 6.0 wt. -% and most preferably from 0.01 to 4.0 wt. -% of water (a1), based on the total weight of the composition (a).

3. The process according to any one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that the first composition (a) comprises one or more organic C of formula (S-I) and/or (S-II)₁-C₆Alkoxy radicalSilanes (A2), and/or their condensation products,

R₁R₂N-L-Si(OR₃)_a(R₄)_b (S-I)

wherein

-R₁、R₂Independently represent a hydrogen atom or C₁-C₆An alkyl group, a carboxyl group,

l is a linear or branched divalent C₁-C₂₀An alkylene group or a substituted alkylene group,

-R₃、R₄independently represent C₁-C₆An alkyl group, a carboxyl group,

a represents an integer from 1 to 3, and

-b is an integer from 3 to a,

and

(R₅O)_c(R₆)_dSi-(A)_e-[NR₇-(A')]_f-[O-(A”)]_g-[NR₈-(A”')]_h-Si(R₆')_d'(OR₅')_c' (S-II),

wherein

-R₅、R₅'、R₅”、R₆、R₆' and R₆"independently represents C₁-C₆An alkyl group, a carboxyl group,

-A, A ', A ' and A ' independently represent a linear or branched C₁-C₂₀A divalent alkylene group, wherein the alkylene group is,

-R₇and R₈Independently represents a hydrogen atom, C₁-C₆Alkyl, hydroxy C₁-C₆Alkyl radical, C₂-C₆Alkenyl, amino-C₁-C₆Alkyl or a group of the formula (S-III),

-(A””)-Si(R₆”)_d”(OR₅”)_c” (S-III)，

-c represents an integer from 1 to 3,

-d represents an integer from 3 to c,

-c' represents an integer from 1 to 3,

-d 'represents an integer 3-c',

-c' represents an integer from 1 to 3,

-d "represents an integer from 3 to c",

-e represents 0 or 1,

-f represents 0 or 1,

-g represents 0 or 1,

-h represents 0 or 1,

-with the proviso that at least one of e, f, g and h is not 0.

4. The process according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the first composition (A) comprises at least one C of formula (S-I) selected from the following group₁-C₆Organoalkoxysilane (a2) and/or condensation products thereof:

- (3-aminopropyl) triethoxysilane

- (3-aminopropyl) trimethoxysilane

- (2-aminoethyl) triethoxysilane

- (2-aminoethyl) trimethoxysilane

- (3-dimethylaminopropyl) triethoxysilane

- (3-dimethylaminopropyl) trimethoxysilane

- (2-dimethylaminoethyl) triethoxysilane,

- (2-dimethylaminoethyl) trimethoxysilane.

5. The process according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the first composition (A) comprises one or more organic C of formula (S-IV)₁-C₆Alkoxysilanes (A2) and/or condensation products thereof,

R₉Si(OR₁₀)_k(R₁₁)_m (S-IV)，

wherein

-R₉Is represented by C₁-C₁₂An alkyl group, a carboxyl group,

-R₁₀is represented by C₁-C₆An alkyl group, a carboxyl group,

-R₁₁is represented by C₁-C₆An alkyl group, a carboxyl group,

-k is an integer from 1 to 3, and

-m represents an integer 3-k.

6. The process according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the first composition (A) comprises at least one C of formula (S-I) selected from the following group₁-C₆Organoalkoxysilane (a2) and/or condensation products thereof:

-methyltrimethoxysilane

-methyltriethoxysilane

-ethyltrimethoxysilane

-ethyltriethoxysilane

-hexyltrimethoxysilane

-hexyltriethoxysilane

-octyl trimethoxysilane

-octyl triethoxysilane

-a dodecyl-trimethoxysilane,

-dodecyltriethoxysilane.

7. The process according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the first composition (A) comprises one or more organic C's in a total amount of from 30.0 to 85.0% by weight, preferably from 35.0 to 80.0% by weight, more preferably from 40.0 to 75.0% by weight, even more preferably from 45.0 to 70.0% by weight, and most preferably from 50.0 to 65.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition (A)₁-C₆Alkoxysilane (a2) and/or condensation products thereof.

8. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the first composition (A) comprises at least one cosmetic ingredient selected from the group consisting of: hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

9. The process according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the first composition (A) comprises from 10.0 to 50.0% by weight, preferably from 15.0 to 45.0% by weight, more preferably from 20.0 to 40.0% by weight, even more preferably from 25.0 to 35.0% by weight, and most preferably from 31.0 to 34.0% by weight of hexamethyldisiloxane, based on the total weight of the composition (A).

10. The process according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the second composition (B) comprises 5.0 to 90.0 wt. -%, preferably 15.0 to 85.0 wt. -%, more preferably 25.0 to 80.0 wt. -%, further more preferably 35.0 to 75.0 wt. -%, most preferably 45.0 to 70.0 wt. -% of water (B1), based on the total weight of the composition (B).

11. The process according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the second composition (B) comprises at least one first surfactant (B2), the first surfactant (B2) being selected from nonionic, cationic, zwitterionic or anionic surfactants, highly preferably from nonionic surfactants.

12. The process according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the second composition (B) comprises at least one second surfactant (B3), the second surfactant (B3) being selected from nonionic, cationic, zwitterionic or anionic surfactants, most preferably from nonionic surfactants.

13. The process according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the second composition (B) comprises

-at least one first non-ionic surfactant (B2), and

-at least one second non-ionic surfactant (B3) structurally different from the first non-ionic surfactant (B2).

14. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that the second composition (B) comprises at least one first non-ionic surfactant (B2) of formula (T-I),

wherein

Ra represents saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C₁₂-C₃₀Alkyl radical, and

n is an integer from 1 to 10, preferably an integer from 1 to 5, more preferably an integer from 1 to 3, and most preferably the number 1, and

s represents a sugar residue having 5 or 6 carbon atoms.

15. The method according to claim 14, characterized in that the second composition (B) comprises at least one first non-ionic surfactant (B2) of formula (T-I), wherein

Ra represents a saturated branched chain C₁₂-C₃₀Alkyl, preferably representing a saturated branched chain C₁₂-C₂₂An alkyl group, a carboxyl group,

n represents the number 1, and

s represents a xylitol residue.

16. The process according to any one of claims 1 to 15, characterized in that the second composition (B) comprises one or more surfactants (B2) in a total amount of 0.5 to 20.0 wt. -%, preferably 1.0 to 10.0 wt. -%, more preferably 1.5 to 8.0 wt. -%, and most preferably 2.0 to 7.0 wt. -%, based on the total weight of the composition (B).

17. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 16, characterized in that the second composition (B) comprises at least one second non-ionic surfactant (B3) of formula (T-II),

wherein

Rb, Rc independently of one another denote saturated, linear or branched, unsubstituted or substituted C₁₂-C₃₀-an alkanoyl group,

m represents an integer of 1 to 60, preferably an integer of 10 to 50, more preferably an integer of 15 to 40, and highly preferably an integer of 25 to 35.

18. The process according to any one of claims 1 to 17, characterized in that the second composition (B) comprises one or more surfactants (B3) in a total amount of 0.5 to 20.0 wt. -%, preferably 1.0 to 10.0 wt. -%, more preferably 1.5 to 8.0 wt. -%, and most preferably 2.0 to 7.0 wt. -%, based on the total weight of the composition (B).

19. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 18, wherein the second composition (B) comprises one or more fatty components selected from the group consisting of: c₁₂-C₃₀Fatty alcohol, C₁₂-C₃₀Fatty acid triglyceride, C₁₂-C₃₀Fatty acid monoglyceride, C₁₂-C₃₀Fatty acid diglycerides and/or hydrocarbons.

20. The process according to any one of claims 1 to 19, characterized in that the second composition (B) comprises at least one solvent selected from the group consisting of: 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, ethylene glycol, 1, 2-butanediol, dipropylene glycol, ethanol, isopropanol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, glycerol, phenoxyethanol and/or benzyl alcohol.

21. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 20, characterized in that a composition is applied to the keratin materials, the composition being prepared by mixing the first composition (a) and the second composition (B) immediately before application.

22. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 21, wherein the following are applied to the keratin materials:

-a third composition (C) comprising at least one dyeing compound chosen from pigments and/or direct dyes.

23. The method according to claim 22, characterized in that a composition is applied to the keratin materials, said composition being obtained by mixing the first composition (a) with the second and third compositions (B, C) immediately before application.

24. The method according to claim 22, characterized in that, in a first step, a composition is applied to the keratin materials, said composition being prepared by mixing the first composition (a) with the second composition (B) immediately before application, and, in a second step, the third composition (C) is applied to the keratin materials.

25. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 24, wherein the following are applied to the keratin materials:

-a fourth composition (D) comprising at least one film-forming polymer.

26. The process according to any one of claims 1 to 25, characterized in that said composition (B) and/or said composition (C) comprise at least one dyeing compound chosen from inorganic pigments chosen from the group consisting of: non-ferrous metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, composite metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and/or colored mica or mica-based pigments coated with at least one metal oxide and/or metal oxychloride.

27. The process according to any one of claims 1 to 26, characterized in that said composition (B) and/or said composition (C) comprise at least one colorant compound from organic pigments selected from the group consisting of: carmine; quinacridone; phthalocyanines; sorghum; blue pigments with color index numbers Cl 42090, CI 69800, CI 698825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160; yellow pigments with color index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005; green pigments with color indices CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260; orange pigments with color indices CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105; red pigments having color index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915 and/or CI 75470.

28. Process according to any one of claims 1 to 27, characterized in that said composition (B) and/or said composition (C) comprise at least one dyeing compound chosen from anionic, nonionic and/or cationic direct dyes.

29. A kit for treating keratin materials, comprising an individually packaged

-a first container containing a first composition (a), and

-a second container containing a second composition (B), wherein

The compositions (a) and (B) are as defined in any one of claims 1 to 28.

30. The kit of claim 29, comprising individually packaged

-a third container comprising a third composition (C), wherein the third composition (C) is as defined in any one of claims 22 to 28.

31. The kit of any one of claims 29 to 30, comprising individually packaged

-a fourth container comprising a fourth composition (D) comprising at least one film-forming polymer.

Examples

1. Preparation of the silane blend (composition (A))

A reactor having a heatable/coolable housing and a capacity of 10 l was charged with 4.67kg of methyltrimethoxysilane (34.283 mol). Under stirring, 1.33kg of (3-aminopropyl) triethoxysilane (6.008mol) were then added. The mixture was stirred at 30 ℃. Subsequently, 670ml of distilled water (37.18mol) were added dropwise with vigorous stirring, while the temperature of the reaction mixture was kept at 30 ℃ with external cooling. After the addition of water was complete, stirring was continued for another 10 minutes. A vacuum of 280mbar is then applied and the reaction mixture is heated to a temperature of 44 ℃. Once the reaction mixture reached a temperature of 44 ℃, ethanol and methanol released during the reaction were distilled off within 190 minutes. During the distillation, the vacuum was reduced to 200 mbar. The distilled alcohol was collected in a cooled receiver. The reaction mixture was then allowed to cool to room temperature. Then, 3.33kg of hexamethyldisiloxane was added dropwise to the thus-obtained mixture while stirring. Stirred for 10 minutes. In each case 100ml of the silane blend was charged into a bottle with a sealed screw cap having a capacity of 100 ml. After filling, the bottles were tightly sealed. The water content is less than 2.0 wt.%.

2. Preparation of composition (B)

The following composition (B) was prepared (all numbers are in wt% unless otherwise noted).

Composition (B)

3. Preparation of compositions (C) and (D)

The following compositions were prepared (all numbers are in weight% unless otherwise indicated).

Composition (C)

Composition (D)

	By weight%
		Ethylene/sodium acrylate copolymer (25% solution)	40.0
Water (W)	To 100 of

5. Application of

A ready-to-use composition was prepared by mixing 1.5g of composition (A), 20.0g of composition (B) and 1.5g of composition (C), respectively. Compositions (A), (B) and (C) were each shaken for 1 minute. This ready-to-use agent was then dyed separately on two strands of hair (Kerling, European hair white).

After three minutes of shaking, the ready-to-use composition was applied to the first lock (lock 1) of hair, left to act for 1 minute, and then rinsed off. 10 minutes after the shaking was complete, the ready-to-use composition was applied to the second lock (lock 2) of hair, left to act for 1 minute and then rinsed off. Subsequently, composition (D) was applied to each lock of hair, left to act for 1 minute and then rinsed with water as well.

The two strands of dyed hair were each dried and visually compared under daylight.

The first step is as follows:	(A)+(B-V1)+(C)	(A)+(B-E1)+(C)
			the second step is that:	D	D
color difference between strands 1 and 2	Height of	Is low in