阅读说明：本技术 一种化妆品活性物传输系统的配方 (Formulation for a cosmetic active delivery system ) 是由 高峰 侍粉玲 于 2020-04-07 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明涉及一种化妆品活性物传输系统的配方,具有核壳结构,核心是亲水区域,可以搭载水溶性的活性物分子,壳部分为脂质区域,搭载亲脂性活性成分,在壳的外表面包裹氨基酸类的亲水性乳化剂,特别适合应用到水基化妆品之中。配方中含约1～20份水、1～5份丁二醇、1～5份甘油、0.1～5份月桂酰基谷氨酸酯类,0.1～5份氢化卵磷脂、0.1～5份聚乙二醇-30-二聚羟基硬脂酸酯、0.1～5份十聚甘油单月桂酸酯、0.1～5份聚甘油蓖麻醇酯、0.1～8份鲸蜡基-PG羟乙基棕榈酰胺、0.1～5份植物甾醇类、0.1～5份胆固醇、0.1～20份辛酸癸酸甘油三脂。(The invention relates to a formula of a cosmetic active substance delivery system, which has a core-shell structure, wherein the core is a hydrophilic region and can carry water-soluble active substance molecules, the shell part is a lipid region and carries lipophilic active ingredients, and the outer surface of the shell is coated with an amino acid hydrophilic emulsifier, so that the cosmetic active substance delivery system is particularly suitable for being applied to water-based cosmetics. The formula comprises about 1-20 parts of water, 1-5 parts of butanediol, 1-5 parts of glycerol, 0.1-5 parts of lauroyl glutamate, 0.1-5 parts of hydrogenated lecithin, 0.1-5 parts of polyethylene glycol-30-dipolyhydroxystearate, 0.1-5 parts of decaglycerol monolaurate, 0.1-5 parts of polyglycerol ricinoleate, 0.1-8 parts of cetyl-PG hydroxyethyl palmitamide, 0.1-5 parts of phytosterol, 0.1-5 parts of cholesterol and 0.1-20 parts of caprylic capric triglyceride.)

1. A formulation for a cosmetic active delivery system, the formulation comprising:

a) 1-20 parts of water, 1-5 parts of butanediol, 1-5 parts of glycerol, 0.1-5 parts of lauroyl glutamate, 0.1-5 parts of hydrogenated lecithin, 0.1-5 parts of polyethylene glycol-30-dipolyhydroxystearate, 0.1-5 parts of decaglycerol monolaurate, 0.1-5 parts of polyglycerol ricinoleate, 0.1-8 parts of cetyl-PG hydroxyethyl palmitamide, 0.1-5 parts of phytosterol, 0.1-5 parts of cholesterol, 0.1-20 parts of caprylic/capric triglyceride

b) At least one additional component.

2. The formulation of claim 1, wherein the formulation further comprises at least one additional ingredient selected from the group consisting of solvents, thickeners, PH modifiers, humectants, rheology modifiers, chelating agents, skin lightening agents, preservatives, and skin conditioning agents.

3. A formulation as in claim 1, further comprising glyceryl stearate, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, phytosterol/octyldodecanol lauroyl glutamate, sucrose polystearate, hydrogenated polyisobutene, sorbitan stearate, sucrose cocoate, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lecithin, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetearyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, cetyl glucoside, cocoyl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, C12-16 alkyl glucoside, C12-18 alkyl glucoside, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, C8-C14 alkyl glucoside, sodium stearyl glutamate, sorbitan olivetoleate, cetearyl olivetoleate, sodium stearyl lactylate, One or more of sodium isostearoyl lactylate, sodium lauroyl lactylate and sodium decanoyl lactylate.

Technical Field

The invention relates to a formula of a cosmetic active substance transmission system, and belongs to the technical field of daily chemical products.

Background

In the late 20 years, the cosmetic raw materials and the formula technology have been rapidly developed, in the 1990s, the face cream containing high-content fruit acid is on the market, and has breakthrough effects on resisting skin aging and lightening white and fading spots, and then, people continuously develop various functional raw materials to meet the requirements of consumers. Advanced synthesis technology, extraction and separation technology and biological fermentation technology are applied to the development of new raw materials. The addition of functional materials is no longer merely a market claim, but is expected to achieve satisfactory results for treating various skin problems.

The skin structure is composed of an epidermal layer, an epidermal dermal link layer, a dermal layer, and subcutaneous tissue. The generation of skin wrinkles is closely related to the deletion of collagen and elastin in the dermis, and the polypeptide is a widely applied anti-aging effect substance and can stimulate fibroblasts to synthesize collagen and other macromolecular matrixes. There is a need for skin care products that not only hydrate and moisturize the stratum corneum, but also store and deliver active molecules to the area of action.

Researches show that many active ingredients have excellent skin care effect, such as coenzyme Q10 has good antioxidant and anti-aging effects, but coenzyme Q10 is easy to discolor so as to lose activity. Lipoic acid is another recognized anti-aging substance, but is very susceptible to oxidation and discoloration in cosmetic formulations. In response to the application of such materials, there is a need to design a delivery system that encapsulates unstable active ingredients to avoid their loss of activity in the product formulation.

The delivery system can not only improve the stability problem of the active substances, but also endow the product with a plurality of other benefits, such as increasing the water solubility of fat-soluble substances, reducing the stimulation of the active substances to the skin due to extremely quick release, increasing the transdermal absorption capacity of the active substances, improving the using effect of the product and the like, develops a warm and safe delivery system, and has important significance for improving the performance of skin care products.

Disclosure of Invention

The outermost layer of the skin is the stratum corneum, which is composed of keratin-filled keratinocytes, between which intercellular lipids are distributed, which are mainly composed of ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids, and account for about 5-30% of the total volume of the stratum corneum. Since the stratum corneum is hydrophobic in nature, it serves as the main barrier in the skin structure, accounting for approximately 80%. Lipophilic substances generally have better skin penetration than hydrophilic substances, and some substances have the effect of promoting transdermal absorption. Ceramide, hydrogenated lecithin, cholesterol, fatty acid triglyceride and the like have molecular structures consistent with skin, are mild in properties and low in potential irritation to skin, and are the best choice for designing a delivery system.

The "brick wall model" is the most classical model of the stratum corneum, keratinocytes like bricks, intercellular lipids like cement directly to bricks; intercellular substances can exist in the form of multilayer lamellar liquid crystals or gels, and the permeation of intercellular lipids into the skin is the main route of transdermal absorption. Cholesterol and unsaturated fatty acids can increase the fluidity of intercellular lipids, thereby increasing the transdermal absorption capacity of the active ingredient. Since intercellular lipids are hydrophobic structures, water-soluble active ingredients are less likely to penetrate into the skin, and their transdermal absorption can be increased by increasing the concentration of the active, but this strategy may increase the cost or increase the potential irritation of the product. A clever strategy is to encapsulate water-soluble substances in fat-soluble globules to form a core-shell structure with water as a core and a lipophilic shell, and the design not only increases the stability of water-soluble active substances, but also improves the transdermal absorbability.

The emulsifier molecule has a hydrophilic head group and a lipophilic tail chain, has an amphiphilic property and has better permeability. The emulsifiers usually used in cosmetics are mainly nonionic emulsifiers, anionic emulsifiers and cationic emulsifiers. The amino acid is a basic unit of proteins in the skin, and the amino acid emulsifier taking amino acids as hydrophilic groups has the characteristics of mildness and skin friendliness. Hydrogenated lecithin is a component of cell membrane, has no toxicity to skin cells, and can be used as an emulsifier in cosmetics.

Further research shows that hydrophilic emulsifier is introduced to the surface of the outer lipid layer with the core-shell structure, so that the lipid microspheres have hydrophilic performance and can be dispersed in a water aqua product to form a W/O/W structure. The skin care product with the multilayer structure has moist skin feel and can play a role in lasting skin care.

The invention designs a lipid particle which has a core-shell structure, wherein the core is a hydrophilic region and can carry water-soluble active substance molecules, the shell part is a lipid region and carries lipophilic active ingredients, and the outer surface of the shell is coated with a hydrophilic emulsifier of amino acids, so that the lipid particle is particularly suitable for being applied to water-based cosmetics.

A cosmetic active delivery system formulation comprising about 1 to 20 parts water, 1 to 5 parts butylene glycol, 1 to 5 parts glycerin, 0.1 to 5 parts lauroyl glutamate, 0.1 to 5 parts hydrogenated lecithin, 0.1 to 5 parts polyethylene glycol-30-dipolyhydroxystearate, 0.1 to 5 parts decaglycerol monolaurate, 0.1 to 5 parts polyglycerol ricinoleate, 0.1 to 8 parts cetyl-PG hydroxyethyl palmitamide, 0.1 to 5 parts phytosterols, 0.1 to 5 parts cholesterol, 0.1 to 20 parts caprylic capric triglyceride.

The formulation may also contain at least one skin conditioning agent, ubiquinone, vitamin C and its derivatives, kojic acid, retinol, retinal, lipoic acid, resveratrol, etc.

One or more hydrophilic emulsifiers or co-emulsifiers may also be added to adjust the hydrophilic-lipophilic properties of the surface, such as glyceryl stearate, spermaceti, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, phytosterol/octyldodecanol lauroyl glutamate, sucrose polystearate, hydrogenated polyisobutene, sorbitan stearate, sucrose cocoate, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lecithin, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetearyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, cetyl glucoside, cocoyl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, C12-16 alkyl glucoside, C12-18 alkyl glucoside, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, C8-C14 alkyl glucoside, sodium stearyl glutamate, sorbitan olivate, glyceryl oleate, Cetearyl olive oleate, sodium stearoyl lactylate, sodium isostearoyl lactylate, sodium lauroyl lactylate, sodium decanoyl lactylate.

The compound product can be used for skin care products and color cosmetics products, such as anti-aging products, whitening products, moisturizing products, sunscreen products, acne-removing products, soothing and repairing products, lipstick products, foundation products and the like.

Detailed Description

The embodiment of the invention is as follows:

a cosmetic active delivery system formulation is shown in Table 1

(unit is part by weight)

Table one: formulation for a cosmetic active delivery system

The blending method of the product comprises the following steps: adding the component B into a main pot, heating to 75-80 ℃, uniformly stirring, heating the component A to 75-80 ℃, uniformly stirring, and adding the component A into the component B while stirring; cooling to room temperature and filling.

The above examples are preferred embodiments of the present invention, but the embodiments of the present invention are not limited to the above examples.