阅读说明：本技术 具有粉刺调理功效的护肤组合物及其应用 (Skin care composition with acne conditioning effect and application thereof ) 是由 聂艳峰 郭朝万 王未燕 胡露 王娟 蒲艳 于 2020-12-16 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明涉及一种具有粉刺调理功效的护肤组合物及其应用。所述具有粉刺调理功效的护肤组合物以重量百分比计,包括如下组分：改性水杨酸1％～6％、小分子有机酸0.1％～5％、多元醇保湿剂5％～10％,及水80％～90％；其中,所述小分子有机酸为γ-葡糖酸内酯和/或乳糖酸；所述多元醇保湿剂为丙二醇和双丙甘醇。该护肤组合物具有与水杨酸相当的粉刺护理效果,且性质温和,对皮肤的刺激性低,能够当作日常的精华液或水剂使用,降低皮肤的粉刺黑头数量,或预防粉刺黑头的发生,并降低粉刺发展为炎性痤疮的倾向,提高皮肤的平滑程度,减小皮肤可见毛孔数量。(The invention relates to a skin care composition with acne conditioning effect and application thereof. The skin care composition with acne conditioning efficacy comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 1 to 6 percent of modified salicylic acid, 0.1 to 5 percent of small molecular organic acid, 5 to 10 percent of polyalcohol humectant and 80 to 90 percent of water; wherein the small molecule organic acid is gamma-gluconolactone and/or lactobionic acid; the polyalcohol humectant is propylene glycol and dipropylene glycol. The skin care composition has a acne care effect equivalent to that of salicylic acid, is mild in property and low in irritation to skin, can be used as a daily essence or a water aqua, reduces the number of acne blackheads on the skin, or prevents the occurrence of the acne blackheads, reduces the tendency of acne to develop into inflammatory acne, improves the smoothness of the skin, and reduces the number of visible pores on the skin.)

1. The skin care composition with the acne conditioning effect is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by weight:

wherein the small molecule organic acid is gamma-gluconolactone and/or lactobionic acid;

the polyalcohol humectant is propylene glycol and dipropylene glycol.

2. The skin care composition with acne conditioning efficacy according to claim 1 wherein said small molecule organic acid is lactobionic acid.

3. The skin care composition with acne conditioning efficacy according to claim 1, wherein the mass ratio of propylene glycol to dipropylene glycol in said polyhydric alcohol moisturizer is 1: (1-3).

4. A Skin care composition with acne conditioning efficacy according to claim 1 wherein said modified salicylic acid is selected from at least one of CycloPEEL, Beta-Hydroxyde ACSD, Salsphere Skin smoothening and BioGenic SA-200.

5. The skin care composition with acne conditioning efficacy according to any of claims 1 to 4, characterized by further comprising the following components in percentage by weight:

1 to 10 percent of penetration enhancer,

0.05% -20% of a soothing anti-allergy agent, and

0.05 to 5 percent of bacteriostatic agent.

6. The skin care composition having acne conditioning efficacy according to claim 5 wherein said soothing and anti-sensitivity agent is selected from at least one of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, allantoin and Symcalmin.

7. A skin care composition having acne conditioning efficacy according to claim 5 wherein said penetration enhancer is selected from at least one of pentanediol, hexanediol, bis-diethoxydiethylene glycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate and ethoxydiglycol.

8. The skin care composition with acne conditioning effect according to any of claims 1 to 4 and 6 to 7, characterized in that the pH of the skin care composition with acne conditioning effect is 2.5 to 6.5.

9. Use of the skin care composition with acne conditioning effect according to any of claims 1 to 8 in the preparation of skin care products.

10. The use of claim 9, wherein the skin care product is a serum or lotion.

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of skin care products, in particular to a skin care composition with an acne conditioning effect and application thereof.

Background

Acne is generally classified into the following categories by symptoms: common acne, conglobation acne, cosmetic acne, fulminant acne, medical acne, rosacea, comedo acne, blackhead acne, cyst, cystic acne, macula, pimple and pustule. The comedo belongs to the category of acne, is non-inflammatory (mild) acne, and is divided into white comedo (closed comedo without head, which looks like yellow-white dots or small pimples, is different in size, is buried in skin, has no opening and does not expose head) and blackhead comedo (open comedo, which looks small and shallow, has an opening and has a black spot at the opening, is formed by oxidation of oil plug, like bean dregs, and the black spot is left in a small pit after being squeezed out). Generally, comedones are closed comedones, while blackheads are open comedones.

The fundamental causes of acne are the major changes of endocrine function in adolescence, the exuberance of sebum secretion, the hyperplasia of hair follicle epithelium and the hyperkeratosis of hair follicle pores, which block the orifice of the tube and cause the imbalance of sebum production and discharge. Mature comedones are produced when these abnormal keratinocytes accumulate and the follicular infundibulum dilates. Sebum is decomposed by bacteria present in the hair follicle (mainly affected by acne bacillus, staphylococcus epidermidis, pityrosporum orbiculare, etc.) to produce free fatty acids which stimulate the hair follicle to cause inflammation, causing the follicle wall to be damaged and ruptured, and the hair follicle contents to enter the dermis, thereby causing an inflammatory response of varying degrees around the hair follicle. Since inflammation promotes the presence of oxygen free radicals, these acids are easily peroxidized and thus easily cause acne, which in turn increases inflammatory attack. Different proteases, especially elastase produced by inflammation, will slowly break the skin barrier (they attack connective tissue matrix, collagen, elastin, etc.), putting the skin in an unbalanced state of excessive keratinization. Oxygen radicals, also produced in the inflammatory process, not only exacerbate inflammation, but also attack all epidermal cells, thus maximizing the extent of skin disorders.

In order to prevent the worsening of acne or alleviate symptoms, skin care products for preventing and treating acne with curative effects can be used in addition to skin cleansing. At present, skin care products specially aiming at acne on the market are few, and common acne removing skin care products have high irritation. For example, the common blackhead drainage liquid/drainage membrane combination can soften the skin cuticle and tear the blackhead by matching with the drainage membrane with strong tearing capability, although the instant effect is good, the method easily causes the side effects of skin barrier damage, large skin pores and the like, and is not a sustainable and long-term acne conditioning method.

Salicylic Acid (SA) is a simple phenolic compound, and is widely used in the fields of medicines due to its various pharmacological activities such as sterilization, antisepsis, anti-inflammation, anti-rheumatism, etc. The salicylic acid is also one of the common functional components of the skin care product, and has the effects of whitening skin, removing acnes and the like when being used on the skin. Salicylic acid is a fat-soluble compound, and has strong irritation to the skin, so that the application of the salicylic acid is limited, the salicylic acid is often added into an emulsion cream system in the past application of skin care products, the salicylic acid is rarely contained in an aqueous essence formula, some essence or aqueous essence formulas on the market contain the salicylic acid, the content is very low, the acne conditioning effect is not good, or a large amount of alcohol or polyalcohol needs to be added into the formula to increase the content of the salicylic acid, and the formula has very poor skin feel and very large irritation. There are also methods to modify salicylic acid to improve the mildness of salicylic acid in application scenes, but the acne care effect of modified salicylic acid is reduced compared with salicylic acid, and the irritation needs to be further improved.

Disclosure of Invention

Based on this, there is a need for a skin care composition having acne conditioning efficacy. The skin care composition has acne caring effect equivalent to salicylic acid, and has mild property and low irritation to skin.

The specific technical scheme is as follows:

a skin care composition with acne conditioning effect comprises the following components in percentage by weight:

wherein the small molecule organic acid is gamma-gluconolactone and/or lactobionic acid;

the polyalcohol humectant is propylene glycol and dipropylene glycol.

In one embodiment, the small molecule organic acid is lactobionic acid.

In one embodiment, the mass ratio of propylene glycol to dipropylene glycol in the polyol humectant is 1: (1-3).

In one embodiment, the modified salicylic acid is selected from at least one of CycloPEEL, Beta-Hydroxyde ACSD, Salsphere Skin smoothening, and BioGenic SA-200.

In one embodiment, the skin care composition with acne conditioning efficacy further comprises the following components in percentage by weight:

1 to 10 percent of penetration enhancer,

0.05% -20% of a soothing anti-allergy agent, and

0.05 to 5 percent of bacteriostatic agent.

In one embodiment, the soothing anti-sensitivity agent is selected from at least one of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, allantoin, and Symcalmin.

In one embodiment, the penetration enhancer is selected from at least one of pentanediol, hexanediol, bis-diethoxydiethylene glycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate, and ethoxydiglycol.

In one embodiment, the pH range of the skin care composition with acne conditioning efficacy is 2.5-6.5.

The invention also provides application of the skin care composition with the acne conditioning effect in preparing a skin care product.

In one embodiment, the skin care product is a serum or a aqua.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:

according to the skin care composition with the acne conditioning effect, the specific small molecular organic acid and the modified salicylic acid are compounded, so that the acne conditioning effect of the composition can be synergistically improved, and the small molecular organic acid has lower irritation than the modified salicylic acid. Meanwhile, the polyalcohol humectant compounded by propylene glycol and dipropylene glycol can further improve the irritation of the small molecular organic acid and the modified salicylic acid, so that the skin care composition is milder and low in irritation, can be used as a daily essence or water aqua, reduces the number of comedones and blackheads on the skin, or prevents the occurrence of the comedones and blackheads, reduces the tendency of the comedones to develop into inflammatory acne, improves the smoothness of the skin, and reduces the number of visible pores on the skin. In addition, the modified salicylic acid content in the composition is high, and the skin feel is fresh and easy to absorb.

Detailed Description

The skin care composition with acne conditioning effect of the present invention and its application are further described in detail with reference to the following specific examples. The present invention may be embodied in many different forms and is not limited to the embodiments described herein. Rather, these embodiments are provided so that this disclosure will be thorough and complete.

Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs. The terminology used in the description of the invention herein is for the purpose of describing particular embodiments only and is not intended to be limiting of the invention.

The "comedones" of the present invention are primarily non-inflammatory closed comedones and open comedones (i.e., blackheads).

The invention provides a skin care composition with acne conditioning effect, which comprises the following components in percentage by weight:

wherein the small molecular organic acid is gamma-gluconolactone and/or lactobionic acid;

the polyalcohol humectant is propylene glycol and dipropylene glycol.

According to the skin care composition with the acne conditioning effect, the specific small molecular organic acid and the modified salicylic acid are compounded, so that the acne conditioning effect of the composition can be synergistically improved, and the small molecular organic acid has lower irritation compared with the modified salicylic acid. Meanwhile, the polyalcohol humectant compounded by propylene glycol and dipropylene glycol can further improve the irritation of the small molecular organic acid and the modified salicylic acid, so that the skin care composition is milder and low in irritation, can be used as a daily essence or water aqua, reduces the number of comedones and blackheads on the skin, or prevents the occurrence of the comedones and blackheads, reduces the tendency of the comedones to develop into inflammatory acne, improves the smoothness of the skin, and reduces the number of visible pores on the skin. In addition, the modified salicylic acid content in the composition is high, and the skin feel is fresh and easy to absorb.

Further, in the skin care composition with acne conditioning efficacy, the weight percentage of the modified salicylic acid is preferably 2-4%.

Further, in the skin care composition with acne conditioning effect, the weight percentage of the small molecular organic acid is preferably 0.3-1%.

Further, the skin care composition with acne conditioning efficacy comprises the following components in percentage by weight:

in one example, the small molecule organic acid is lactobionic acid.

In one example, the mass ratio of propylene glycol to dipropylene glycol in the polyol humectant is 1: (1-3).

In one example, the modified salicylic acid is selected from at least one of CycloPEEL, Beta-Hydroxyde ACSD, Salsphere Skin smoothening, and BioGenic SA-200.

Wherein CycloPEEL, available from SETHIC, France, is a sub-nanometer cyclodextrin-encapsulated 50% salicylic acid, water-soluble.

Beta-Hydroxyde ACSD, supplied by BASF in Germany, is a molecular structure of salicylic acid and gum arabic molecularly coupled together in a ratio of 50:50, water soluble.

Salsphere Skin smoothening, available from Salvona, is a composition (water, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, salicylic acid, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin) consisting of submicron spheres, about 0.1 to 0.3 microns in diameter, containing a hydrophobic core, surrounded by a hydrophilic cationic shell designed to be slowly released over time, which helps to anchor the microspheres to the Skin and to suspend them in the formulation. Once placed on the skin, the shell slowly melts into the outer layers of the skin, gradually releasing salicylic acid.

BioGenic SA-200, supplier BIOGENICS, the main components are: salicylic acid, dextrin, xanthan gum and amylopectin are high-concentration completely water-soluble salicylic acid by using a special coating solubilization technology, and the content of active ingredients is 36-44%.

Further, the skin care composition with acne conditioning effect also comprises the following components in percentage by weight:

in one example, the skin care composition with acne conditioning efficacy further comprises the following components in percentage by weight:

1 to 3 percent of penetration enhancer,

0.2% -0.6% of a soothing anti-allergy agent, and

0.1 to 1 percent of bacteriostatic agent.

In one example, the soothing anti-sensitivity agent is selected from at least one of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, allantoin, and Symcalmin (available from Dezhixin, the main constituents including butylene glycol, 1, 2-pentanediol, hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid, and ascorbyl palmitate). Preferably, the soothing and anti-allergy agent is a combination of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, allantoin and Symcalmin, and the weight ratio can be 1: (2-6): (2-6).

In one example, the skin care composition with acne conditioning efficacy has a pH range of 2.5-6.5, and preferably a pH range of 3.8-4.8. The pH value in the range can ensure that the formula has certain cutin peeling capacity and simultaneously keeps certain mildness. Too low a pH is potentially irritating to the skin, and too high a pH results in an organic acid that has too poor a exfoliating ability. Further, the pH adjusting agent used to maintain the above pH range is a combination of citric acid-trisodium citrate, which may be 0.1% to 1% by weight in the skin care composition having acne-conditioning effect.

In one example, the penetration enhancer is selected from at least one of pentanediol, hexanediol, bis-diethoxydiethylene glycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate (Neosolue-Aqulio, available from NFC), and ethoxydiglycol. Preferably, the penetration enhancer is a combination of pentanediol and bis-diethoxydiol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate.

In one example, the bacteriostatic agent is at least one of aloe vera extract, centella asiatica extract, benzalkonium chloride, salicylic acid, hexamidine di (isethionate) salt, and quaternary ammonium salt-73.

Acne-prone skin is characterized by the proliferation of specific bacteria in the pilosebaceous glands, mainly staphylococci (particularly in the superficial layers of the skin) and propionibacteria (gram-positive anaerobic bacteria in the follicular gland channels). Acne propionibacteria produce lipases that can break down sebum triglycerides into free fatty acids that can provoke or maintain hyperkeratinization of the follicular orifice, resulting in the formation of comedones. Staphylococcus epidermidis and staphylococcus aureus secrete elastase, which is also responsible for the development of acne-like lesions of the skin. Thus, normal skin colonization can be restored by the action of inhibiting bacterial proliferation. Preferably, the bacteriostatic agent is at least one of aloe vera extract and centella asiatica extract.

In addition, optionally, the skin care composition with acne conditioning effect can also be added with skin conditioning agents, skin feeling conditioning agents, thickening agents, solubilizing agents, preservatives, aromatic agents and other ingredients commonly used in skin care products.

The invention also provides application of the skin care composition with the acne conditioning effect in preparing skin care products. Further, the skin care product refers to essence or water.

The following are specific examples, and the components used in the examples are all commercially available products unless otherwise specified.

Examples 1 to 9

Examples 1 to 9 provide 9 essence liquids with acne conditioning effects, and the formula thereof is shown in the following table 1 in percentage by mass:

TABLE 1

The preparation method of the essence with the acne conditioning effect comprises the following steps:

(1) uniformly mixing the No. 1 and No. 2 raw materials, adding the No. 3 raw material, heating to 80-85 ℃, and stirring to dissolve the mixture to be in a transparent state;

(2) sequentially adding 4#, 5#, 6#, 8# and 9# raw materials, stirring and dissolving until no particle solution exists; beginning to cool down;

(3) cooling to 45 deg.C, sequentially adding the rest raw materials, and continuously cooling;

(4) cooling to 32 +/-2 ℃, filtering and discharging, and detecting the pH value to be 3.5-5.5.

Comparative example 1

The formula and the preparation method of the essence with the acne conditioning effect are the same as those in example 1, and the main difference is that: mandelic acid is used as small molecular organic acid instead of lactobionic acid.

Comparative example 2

The formula and the preparation method of the essence with the acne conditioning effect are the same as those in example 1, and the main difference is that: dipropylene glycol was not used, only 8% propylene glycol was used.

Example 10

The effect evaluation was performed on the essences with acne conditioning effects of examples 1 to 9 and comparative examples 1 to 3.

Reference example: the formulations of emulsions containing salicylic acid in equal proportions (only emulsion formulations can be added at relatively high levels of addition because of its very low water solubility) are shown in table 2 below:

TABLE 2

Note:delta MB is cetyl (and) glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-75 stearate (and) ceteth-20 (and) steareth-20, available from GATTEFOSSE, France.

The preparation process comprises the following steps:

(1) heating the raw materials 1#, 2#, 3#, 4#, 5# and 6# to 70-75 ℃, and dissolving and stirring uniformly to obtain an oil phase;

(2) heating the raw materials No. 7, No. 8, No. 9, No. 10 and No. 11 to 75-80 ℃, and stirring and dissolving the raw materials uniformly to obtain a water phase;

(3) adding the oil phase raw material into the water phase raw material, homogenizing to obtain uniform and fine cream, and cooling;

(4) heating the raw materials No. 16, No. 17 and No. 18 to 55-60 ℃ to dissolve the raw materials into a transparent uniform solution for later use;

(5) cooling to 45 deg.C, sequentially adding homogeneous solutions of raw materials No. 12, No. 13, No. 14, No. 15, No. 16, No. 17, and No. 18, stirring, and cooling;

(6) cooling to 32 +/-1 ℃ and discharging.

Acne conditioning efficacy, mildness, skin feel evaluation

Selecting a test population: 120 healthy volunteers were selected, 10 in each group.

Volunteers included criteria: 1) healthy, without any history of skin or systemic disease; 2) male and female are unlimited, age is 20-65 years, skin is dark or yellow or has slight blotchiness; 3) the attitude is serious, and the product can be used persistently; the excluded population is pregnant or lactating women, sensitive skin, those in the test area who have undergone medical cosmetology (laser, chemical exfoliation, botulinum toxin, skin augmentation or skin pulling), and those who have recently suffered sunburn. 4) The facial skin has typical acne-like characteristics and large pores;

the using method comprises the following steps: after face cleaning, the acne conditioning essence or the acne conditioning cream is mixed at a concentration of 1.25uL/cm²The coating was applied to the facial area at a uniform density twice a day. The product was used continuously for 30 days.

The efficacy evaluation method comprises the following steps: done in questionnaire form.

The main evaluation indexes are as follows: 1) the acne removing effect is evaluated according to the following grades: the effect is obvious, the effect is general, and the effect is not in three levels; 2) the irritation index, the evaluation level is: the stimulation is very stimulation (red swelling, stabbing pain, pruritus, desquamation or other serious discomfort symptoms are generated in the using process), moderate stimulation (the discomfort symptoms are very slight and basically not perceived; the discomfort symptoms are not existed in the later period), and no stimulation is generated at all (the whole using process is very comfortable and has no discomfort feeling); 3) the skin feel index is very dislike (sticky, unabsorbed, heavy and the like, poor spreadability), general and very good (fresh, easy to absorb and good spreadability).

Data processing: the product evaluation standard is obtained by three dimensions of acne removing effect, irritation index and skin feeling index. By the percentage of the user's preference as a comparison.

The test results are shown in table 3 below:

TABLE 3

From the data analysis, the conditioning effect of the acne conditioning essence is almost as good as or even more obvious than that of salicylic acid acne conditioning cream in the same proportion, the irritation is far lower than that of the salicylic acid acne conditioning cream containing pure water, and the skin feeling is much better than that of the acne conditioning cream.

Remarking: in the aspect of acne conditioning effect indexes, all indexes are less than 100 percent in sum, because in the test process, some people in the acne conditioning essence liquid group withdraw due to intolerance.

(II) evaluation of pore Conditioning

Selecting a test population: 60 healthy volunteers were selected. The above volunteers were divided into example 1 group and reference example group, each of which was 30 persons.

Volunteers included criteria: 1) healthy, without any history of skin or systemic disease; 2) male and female are unlimited, age is 20-65 years, skin is dark or yellow or has slight blotchiness; 3) the attitude is serious, and the product can be used persistently; excluding those who are pregnant or lactating women, sensitive skin, have undergone medical cosmetology (laser, chemical exfoliation, botulinum toxin, skin infill or skin pull) in the test area, and have recently sunburn; 4) facial skin has typical acne-like features & large pores.

Testing an instrument:

VISIA digital skin analyzer, Canfield, usa;

VISIA facial skin analyzer, i.e., skin image analysis system, imported by the original U.S. via FDA and CE certification in the united states, can perform quantitative analysis of skin characteristics, and the principle of identifying pores is as follows: high-definition photographing is carried out on the face; applying multiple spectral image science and technology: standard white light, ultraviolet light and cross section polarized light, and 3-angle imaging is performed for 3 times; the standard white light is used for forming phases on visible spots, pores, fine lines and the like on the surface of the skin; the pores reflect the dilation and flatness of the sebaceous gland openings because an open pore can be shaded and darker than normal skin color. Generally, the oil skin pores of the loempe are low in score, and particularly, the pores are obvious in the positions blocked by acnes and blackheads.

The using method comprises the following steps: after cleansing, the sample of example 1 or the reference example was set at 1.25uL/cm²The coating was applied to the facial area at a uniform density twice a day. The product was used continuously for 30 days.

The test method comprises the following steps: the room temperature is controlled to be 20 +/-2 ℃, and the Relative Humidity (RH) is controlled to be 55% +/-3%. The testee enters a test environment 30min before the test and waits for the test quietly, and the VISIA is used for detection 30min later, so that smiling lines, a light reflection area, black nevi and hair are avoided in an analysis area as much as possible.

And recording pore values before and after the product is used, wherein the value before the product is used is an initial value, and the value after the product is used is a test value.

Data processing: the VISIA system carries a database, after being photographed, the VISIA system obtains feature counts according to a system algorithm, and the improvement of skin pores is measured by the absolute score change rate displayed by the system, namely:

rate of change ═ (test value-initial value)/initial value × 100%

The test results are shown in table 4 below:

TABLE 4

As can be seen from the above data, the data for 23 pores in the example 1 group was valid, while the data for 16 pores in the reference group was valid, demonstrating that example 1 of the present invention has a better effect than pure salicylic acid in reducing the number of visible pores.

The technical features of the embodiments described above may be arbitrarily combined, and for the sake of brevity, all possible combinations of the technical features in the embodiments described above are not described, but should be considered as being within the scope of the present specification as long as there is no contradiction between the combinations of the technical features.

The above-mentioned embodiments only express several embodiments of the present invention, and the description thereof is more specific and detailed, but not construed as limiting the scope of the invention. It should be noted that, for a person skilled in the art, several variations and modifications can be made without departing from the inventive concept, which falls within the scope of the present invention. Therefore, the protection scope of the present patent shall be subject to the appended claims.