Extract of Syzygium cumini fruit rich in organic acids, cosmetic composition comprising same and cosmetic use thereof
阅读说明：本技术 富含有机酸的疑拟香桃木果提取物、包含该提取物的化妆品组合物及其化妆品用途 (Extract of Syzygium cumini fruit rich in organic acids, cosmetic composition comprising same and cosmetic use thereof ) 是由 J-M·波特 C·卡帕莱 C·冈德兰 I·英伯特 S·加尼尔 E·莱波涅 于 2019-01-31 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明涉及干燥、无籽的疑拟香桃木(Myrciaria dubia)果的果肉和果皮提取物,其成熟度为至少70％并且其可溶性固形物/酸度比为2.5至3,其特征在于其富含有机酸。本发明还涉及获得提取物的方法、包含所述提取物的化妆品组合物和用于减少皮肤疲劳体征的化妆品用途。(The invention relates to an extract of the pulp and pericarp of a dried, seedless, suspected myrtle (Myrciaria dubia) fruit, having a maturity of at least 70% and a soluble solids/acidity ratio of between 2.5 and 3, characterized in that it is rich in organic acids. The invention also relates to a method for obtaining the extract, a cosmetic composition comprising said extract and cosmetic use for reducing the signs of skin fatigue.)
1. Extract of the pulp and the peel of a dried, seedless suspected Syzygium jambos fruit having a maturity of at least 70% and a soluble solids/acidity ratio of 2.5 to 3, characterized in that said extract is enriched in organic acids.
2. Extract according to claim 1, characterized in that it is obtained from the pulp and the peel of a dried prunus persica fruit by solid-liquid extraction, under conventional stirring or under ultrasound, in a hydro-polyol solvent chosen from hydro-glycerol and/or hydro-glycol solvents.
3. Extract according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the water-polyol solvent is a mixture of 30% to 90% of glycerol and/or glycols in water.
4. Extract according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it comprises from 13.5% to 80.5% of organic acids, including malic, citric and ascorbic acids; 4.0% to 22.0% total sugars, including in particular glucose, fructose, sucrose and maltose; and 0.5% to 3% minerals including potassium, magnesium, calcium, sodium, manganese, zinc and iron.
5. Extract according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it comprises polyphenols in an amount of 0.08% to 2.00%.
6. Method for obtaining the extract according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it comprises the following steps, wherein:
a) dispersing and extracting in a water-polyol solvent the pulp and the peel of a seedless, dried suspected myrtle having a ripeness of at least 70% and a soluble solids/acidity ratio of 2.5 to 3;
b) separating the liquid phase loaded with the compound of interest from the solid phase by decantation and/or centrifugation and/or clear filtration of the extract obtained from step a);
c) microfiltering the liquid extract obtained in step b) to remove solid plant particles;
d) optionally, purifying the liquid extract obtained in step c) by filtration, ultrafiltration and/or nanofiltration;
e) optionally, the liquid extract of sycamore, obtained for example by spraying, freeze-drying or low-temperature dehydration of zeolite, can be dried to obtain a solid extract of sycamore, optionally dried by drying a carrier such as maltodextrin.
7. The process according to claim 6, characterized in that the water-polyol solvent is a mixture comprising from 10% to 90% by weight of glycerol and/or 1, 3-propanediol in deionized water, relative to the total weight of solvent plus water.
8. The method according to claim 7, characterized in that said extract is obtained by solid-liquid extraction with a water-glycol solvent consisting of 60% 1, 3-propanediol and 40% deionized water.
9. The process according to any one of claims 6 to 8, characterized in that in step a), the temperature is from 4 ℃ to 100 ℃, the extraction time is from 10 minutes to 4 hours, and the extraction is carried out under conventional stirring or under ultrasound.
10. Cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises an extract of the flesh and the peel of the suspected syzygium jambos fruit according to any one of claims 1 to 5, and a physiologically acceptable medium.
11. Composition according to claim 10, characterized in that the extract of the pulp and the peel of the suspected myrtle fruit is present in the composition in a concentration ranging from 0.1% to 3%, preferably from 0.1% to 1.5%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. The composition according to any one of claims 10 and 11, characterized in that the composition is formulated for topical application to the skin.
13. Cosmetic use of a composition according to any one of claims 10 to 12 for reducing the signs of skin fatigue.
14. Cosmetic use of a composition according to claim 13, wherein said signs of skin fatigue are selected from the group consisting of the appearance of puffiness and dark circles under the eyes, dull skin tone, dry skin, fine lines and exacerbation of wrinkles such as forehead wrinkles or crow's feet, worsening of skin laxity, increasing nail fragility and receding hairline.
15. Cosmetic use of a composition according to any of claims 13 or 14 for increasing cellular ATP synthesis, increasing creatine kinase activity, increasing collagen type I expression, increasing PFKFB3 synthesis, decreasing levels of 11b-HSD1 messenger RNA and increasing levels of 11b-HSD2 messenger RNA.
Technical Field
The present invention relates to an extract of the fruit of myrtle (Myrciaria dubia) (Camu-Camu) enriched with organic acids, a process for its preparation, a cosmetic composition comprising this extract and its cosmetic use.
Background
Camu fruit (Myrciaria dubia (h.b.k.) Mc Vaugh.) is a shrub, native to amazon basin, and belongs to Myrtaceae (Myrtaceae family). This shrub is about 3 meters high, growing in amazon forests in peru, colombia, venezuela and brazil, in flooding areas, lakes and rivers in most amazon river basins. Such highly branched shrubs bloom between 11 and 12 months and between 8 and 9 months, and result between 1 and 3 months and between 10 and 11 months.
The camu fruit is a deep red-purple round berry with a diameter of 1-3 cm, and has smooth and glossy pericarp and well-brewed acidic pulp. Traditionally, mature berries have been picked manually by canoes directly in amazon marshes in the rain season flood season. For a few years, manmade forests have been established in many amazon countries. For over 700 years, camu fruit has been used by the original citizen for medical purposes to treat infections, relieve pain, strengthen joints, prolong life, enhance the immune and nervous systems and promote nutrient absorption. Due to its natural acidity, the pulp of this nutritious fruit is mainly consumed after processing into juice, alcoholic beverages, vinegar, concentrates, jams, ice cream and cakes. The pulp represents 50% to 55% of the weight of the fruit, the remainder being the seeds (1 to 3 seeds per fruit) and the peel. Camu fruit is popular worldwide as researchers find it brings unique nutritional and health benefits mainly due to its high natural content of vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and flavonoids. Camu fruits are considered by the skilled man to belong to the group of "super fruits" due to their high content of ascorbic acid or vitamin C (3.5% to 9% of dry weight), various polyphenols such as flavonoids (myricetin, procyanidins, ellagic acid, etc.), tannins (ellagitannins, which are mainly present in the seeds) or anthocyanins, and terpene compounds (α -pinene, limonene, carotenoids, etc.), which confer strong antioxidant capacity (protection against oxidative stress caused by free radicals) and other health benefits. Due to several of these active ingredients, it is also considered to have an anti-inflammatory effect, enhance the immune system and improve the natural defenses of the human body. In the case of convalescent periods, fatigue, influenza or other viral diseases, it is indicated for use as an adjuvant.
It is known that1-4The seeds of camu berries contain betulinic acid (a triterpene), polyphenolic compounds (myricetin and its derivatives, ellagic acid and its derivatives, ellagitannins, procyanidins) and acylphloroglucinols (Isomyrtucommulone B, myrcia B). It is also known1,3-6The pericarp of camu fruit contains polyphenolic compounds (myricetin and its derivatives, ellagic acid and its derivatives, ellagitannin, procyanidins), cyanidin-3-glucoside, delphinidin-3-glucoside), carotenoids (all-trans lutein, β -carotene, violaxanthin, luteolin) and acylphloroglucinols (myrcia a, Rhodomyrtone)4,7-9Camu fruit pulp contains polyphenolic compounds (myricetin and its derivatives, ellagic acid and its derivatives, ellagitannin, cyanidin-3-glucoside, quercetin and its derivatives), ascorbic and dehydroascorbic acids, fatty acids (stearic, linoleic, oleic, gamma and α -linolenic, tricosanoic, eicosadienoic), citric, malic and isocitric acids, simple carbohydrates (mainly glucose and fructose), amino acids (serine, leucine, valine, but also glutamate, 4-aminobutyrate, proline, phenylalanine, threonine, alanine) and minerals (potassium, calcium, magnesium, sodium, phosphate, sulfate, aluminum, boron, copper, manganese, zinc)4It was also demonstrated that vitamin C and polyphenols were present in the extract extracted with the
The concentrations of the different components in the camu fruit specified above have been studied at different stages of ripening of fruits from fresh or dried plant material. Zapata et al9The chemical composition of fresh pulp at three different maturity stages was studied. They show that the vitamin C content increases by about 12% from unripe to ripe fruit, and the sugar content (glucose and fructose) doubles. The amino acid content during fruit ripening also increases, mainly the content of serine, valine and leucine. In this study, it was also shown that during maturation, the citric acid content decreased compared to the malic acid content increased. It is believed that traces of isocitric acid are present in the flesh of the fruit. Finally, this study also showed that the potassium and phosphate content increased, the sodium and sulfate content net decreased by 50-60%, and the calcium and magnesium content remained unchanged during maturation.
Of the above cited documents, only
Furthermore, publication No. WO2014020219 discloses antioxidant compositions of products obtained from the fruit of camu fruits. It more particularly relates to a method for obtaining camu fruit extract in a state of maturity comprised between 20% and 30% and having a soluble solids/acidity ratio comprised between 1.40 and 2.30, said method comprising the steps of removing seeds from selected fruits and drying the fruits free of seeds at a temperature lower than 60 ℃. The water soluble compounds were extracted with water at acidic pH (tricarboxylic acid) and the extract showed high vitamin C and polyphenols including procyanidins. The use of these extracts is described mainly for the preparation of nutraceutical and irritant pharmaceutical compositions; cosmetic compositions are often cited which have a priori a nourishing effect.
The document with publication number WO2004074304 also discloses a glycosylated derivative compound of gallic acid (1- [1, 5-dihydroxy-2, 2,4, 4-tetramethyl-3- [ [6-O- (3,4, 5-trihydroxybenzoyl) - β -D-glucopyranosyl ] oxy ] cyclopentyl ] -3-methyl-2-buten-1-one), which is called "
Finally, it is known from the document with publication number JP3431383 that extracts of camu fruits also show bleaching activity. From whole, preferably fresh, camu fruits of camu fruits, the extract is obtained by immersion with water, an organic solvent or a mixture of water and an organic solvent for a period of at least two days. The only example in this document shows that the fruit is impregnated with ethanol for three days.
Thus, depending on the part of the suspected myrtle fruit used, the quality of the fruit (fresh or dry) and the extraction process used, in particular the choice of solvent, it turns out that the molecules extracted differ in quality and quantity. However, the composition of the extract determines the biological activity and therefore the cosmetic efficacy. As a result, the applicant has desired to obtain a novel extract of quasianolia grandiflora rich in organic acids and low in polyphenols.
The applicant has demonstrated that extracts of the peel and pulp of dry, suspected myrtle fruits having a maturity of at least 70% and no seeds, have an activity of reducing the signs of skin fatigue. The extract of the invention is rich in organic acids (mixture of ascorbic acid, dehydroascorbic acid, malic acid and citric acid), contains minerals and sugars (fructose, glucose, sucrose and traces of maltose) and comprises traces of depigmenting compounds and small amounts of phenolic compounds.
Disclosure of Invention
First, the invention thus relates to an extract of the pulp and the peel of a dry, seedless suspected myrtle fruit, having a maturity of at least 70% and a soluble solids/acidity ratio of 2.5 to 3, said extract being enriched in organic acids.
Secondly, the present invention relates to a process for obtaining the extract of the invention, comprising the following steps, wherein:
a) dispersing the pulp and pericarp of a seedless, dried suspected myrtle having a ripeness of at least 70% and a soluble solids/acidity ratio of 2.5 to 3 in a water-polyol solvent and extracting in the water-polyol solvent,
b) separating the liquid phase loaded with the compound of interest from the solid phase by decanting and/or centrifuging and/or clarifying filtration of the extract obtained from step a),
c) subjecting the liquid extract obtained in step b) to microfiltration to remove solid plant particles,
d) optionally, the liquid extract obtained in step c) is purified by filtration, ultrafiltration and/or nanofiltration,
e) optionally, the liquid extract of sycamore obtained, for example, by spraying, freeze-drying or zeolite low-temperature dehydration (zeodilation) may be dried to obtain a solid extract of sycamore, optionally dried by drying a carrier, for example maltodextrin.
The invention also relates to the extracts of the flesh and the peel of the suspected myrtle obtained directly by said method.
Third, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, as an active agent, an effective amount of the extract of the pulp and the peel of the dried prunus persica fruits of the invention, and a physiologically acceptable medium.
Finally, the invention relates, fourth, to the cosmetic use of the composition of the invention for reducing the signs of skin fatigue.
Detailed Description
In this specification, unless otherwise indicated, it is to be understood that when a range is given, it includes the upper and lower limits of that range.
Percentages are by weight unless otherwise indicated.
In the invention:
"water-polyol" means a mixture of water and a polyol, the polyol comprising at least two alcohol groups, more particularly 2 to 9 alcohol groups, and 3 to 12 carbon atoms.
"organic acid-rich extract" means an extract comprising a certain amount of organic acids (mixture of total ascorbic acid, malic acid and citric acid, said total ascorbic acid comprising ascorbic acid and dehydroascorbic acid) more than the other constituents identified, i.e. from 13.5% to 80.5%, relative to the dry matter of the total extract.
By "effective amount" is meant the amount of the target compound required to obtain the desired effect, i.e. to reduce the signs of skin fatigue.
"reducing the signs of skin fatigue" means that a healthy person may present one, more or all of the following signs: puffiness and dark circles under the eyes, dark skin tone, dry skin, fine lines and wrinkle exacerbations such as forehead or crow's feet, loose skin exacerbations, increased nail brittleness and receding hairline. At the molecular and cellular level, features of skin fatigue include mitochondrial dysfunction, reduced ATP production, reduced glycolysis, and reduced creatine kinase system.
The plant names Camu (Camu-Camu) and syzygium intrestii (Myrciaria dubia) are used interchangeably in the application.
"topical application" means that a composition comprising the suspected myrtle extract of the invention is applied or spread on the skin surface, mucous membranes or appendages.
By "physiologically acceptable" it is meant that a composition comprising the suspected myrtle extract of the invention is suitable for contact with the skin or mucous membranes without causing toxicity, intolerance or allergic reactions. In the case of compositions that can be ingested or injected into the skin, these do not exhibit toxicity, incompatibility, instability and do not cause systemic allergic reactions.
"dry substance" means, expressed in mass percentage, the dry residue obtained after complete removal of the solvent by drying or evaporation.
"target compound" means a compound extracted by the process of the invention and useful in cosmetic compositions to reduce the signs of skin fatigue.
"soluble solids/acidity ratio" means the ratio of soluble solids (mainly sugars) contained in the fruit to the acidity of the fruit. During fruit ripening, the acid decomposes and the sugar content increases and the total soluble solids/acidity ratio (known as Brix/acidity) reaches a higher value. This ratio has no units and corresponds to the brix/acidity ratio calculated based on the citric acid concentration. References for calculating this ratio can be found at page 25, paragraph 2.7 of the document "Quality analysis in nutritional front Processing", published by Springer Verlag berlin heidelberg, 1993, a.ashar and h.treptow.
"at least 70% ripeness" means that the color of each fruit is at least 70% red and 30% green. The maturity can reach 100%.
"Trace compound" means a compound whose presence can be detected but cannot be quantified by conventional laboratory detection methods.
The applicant filed an application for obtaining genetic resources suspected of peach-like trees (Kunth) McVau to the Peru government (INIA: National Institute of Agricultural Innovation) as determined by Andes' Law for "common rules for genetic resources acquisition" No. 391.
Firstly, the invention relates to an extract of the pulp and the peel of a dry, seedless suspected myrtle fruit having a ripeness of at least 70% and a soluble solids/acidity ratio of 2.5 to 3, said extract being rich in organic acids.
The present invention also relates to the extract of the pulp and the peel of a dry, seedless suspected myrtle fruit, obtained directly by the process described as the second subject of the invention, having a ripeness of at least 70% and a soluble solids/acidity ratio ranging from 2.5 to 3.
In the context of the present invention, the plant part selected is the fruit of the species Prunus persica suspected of being a myrtle, selected from the group consisting of the peel and the pulp of a dried fruit from which seeds have been removed. The fruit is harvested when the ripeness of the fruit reaches 70% or more of the red fruit and the soluble solids/acidity ratio is 2.5 to 3.
In a very preferred embodiment, the extract is obtained from the pulp and the pericarp of the dried quamatite fruit by solid-liquid extraction, under conventional stirring or under ultrasound, in a hydro-polyol solvent selected from hydro-glycerol and/or hydro-glycol solvents.
The extract is obtained by solid-liquid extraction of the pulp and pericarp of the dried and crushed prunus persica fruits in a water-polyol solvent selected from water and polyols, such as glycerol, glycols such as 1, 3-propanediol, and mixtures thereof. The solvent 1, 3-propanediol is the preferred solvent because it is agriculturally based.
The extraction solvent is preferably a water-glycerol and/or water-glycol solvent, advantageously in a proportion of 30% to 90% of glycerol and/or glycol in water, for example a mixture of water and 1, 3-propanediol.
In an even more preferred embodiment, the extract is obtained from the pulp and pericarp of a dry, seedless, suspected myrtle fruit by solid-liquid extraction in a water-polyol solvent consisting of 60% 1, 3-propanediol and 40% deionized water.
Finally, in another very preferred embodiment, the extract comprises between 13.5% and 80.5% of organic acids, including malic acid, citric acid and ascorbic acid, relative to the dry matter of the total extract; 4.0% to 22.0% total sugars, including in particular glucose, fructose, sucrose and maltose; and 0.5% to 3% minerals including potassium, magnesium, calcium, sodium, manganese, zinc and iron.
The extract of the invention contains only traces of proteins, traces of amino acids and peptides, polyphenols in amounts of 0.08% to 2.00% and finally traces of the depigmenting compound CA1, with reference to extracts known in the prior art.
Secondly, the present invention relates to a process for obtaining the extract of the invention, comprising the following steps, wherein:
a) dispersing and extracting in a water-polyol solvent the pulp and the peel of a seedless, dried suspected myrtle fruit having a ripeness of at least 70% and a soluble solids/acidity ratio of 2.5 to 3,
b) separating the liquid phase loaded with the compound of interest from the solid phase by decanting and/or centrifuging and/or clarifying filtration of the extract obtained from step a),
c) subjecting the liquid extract obtained in step b) to microfiltration to remove solid plant particles,
d) optionally, the liquid extract obtained in step c) is purified by filtration, ultrafiltration and/or nanofiltration,
e) optionally, the liquid extract of sycamore, obtained for example by spraying, freeze-drying or low-temperature dehydration of zeolite, can be dried to obtain a solid extract of sycamore, optionally dried by drying a carrier such as maltodextrin.
To carry out the method of the invention, the plant part chosen is the fruit of the suspected myrtle, which is selected from the pulp and the peel of the dried fruit, and deseeded to avoid extraction of lipids which would impair the extraction of the target compound.
The fruit is harvested when the ripeness of the fruit reaches 70% or more of the red fruit and the ratio of soluble solids/acidity is 2.5 to 3.
Particularly advantageously, step (a) is carried out on the dried and crushed pulp and pericarp of the seed-free suspected myrtle fruit. The harvested fruit is classified, disinfected, washed and deseeded, then dehydrated with hot air, and then the dried pericarp and pulp are crushed.
The extract is obtained by solid-liquid extraction of the dried and ground pulp and pericarp of the Syzygium jambos fruit in a water-polyol solvent selected from the group consisting of water and polyols such as glycerol, glycols such as 1, 3-propanediol and mixtures thereof. The solvent 1, 3-propanediol is a preferred solvent because it is agricultural based.
Advantageously, the water-polyol solvent is a mixture comprising from 10% to 90% by weight of glycerol and/or 1, 3-propanediol in deionized water, relative to the total weight of solvent plus water.
Further preferably, the water-polyol solvent is a mixture comprising from 50% to 80% by weight of glycerol and/or 1, 3-propanediol in deionized water, relative to the total weight of solvent plus water.
More particularly, in the range of solid-liquid extraction of the pulp and pericarp of the deseeded and dried quamatite, 0.1 to 20% by weight (dry matter) of a portion of the pulp and pericarp of the fruit is introduced into the extraction solvent, preferably 1 to 15% by weight, typically 5 to 10% by weight (% expressed as weight of dry matter with respect to the total weight used).
When the solvent used is glycerol, the proportion of glycerol in water is chosen to be between 30% and 90%, advantageously between 50% and 80% (percentages expressed by weight of glycerol, relative to the total weight of water + glycerol).
When the solvent used is a glycol, more particularly 1, 3-propanediol, the proportion of 1, 3-propanediol in water is chosen to be between 10% and 90%, advantageously between 50% and 70%, and even more advantageously between 60% of 1, 3-propanediol and 40% of deionized water (% expressed as the weight of 1, 3-propanediol relative to the total weight of water plus 1, 3-propanediol).
The extraction temperature is advantageously from 4 ℃ to 100 ℃, preferably from 10 ℃ to 80 ℃, more preferably from 20 ℃ to 50 ℃.
Heating can be carried out by circulating a hot fluid in a double-jacketed extraction vessel or by microwaves.
The extraction time is advantageously from 10 minutes to 4 hours, preferably from 30 minutes to 3 hours, even more advantageously from 1 hour to 2 hours.
The extraction can advantageously be carried out under vacuum, at atmospheric pressure or under pressure, preferably at atmospheric pressure or under pressure, more advantageously at atmospheric pressure.
The extraction is always carried out under agitation, thus allowing dispersion and homogenization of the solid in the liquid, effectively improving the diffusion of the solute in the solvent.
After the extraction of step a), the residual plant material depleted of the target compound is advantageously separated from the liquid phase according to step b), for example by decantation, centrifugation or clear filtration. The resulting liquid phase may be subjected to microfiltration according to step c) using a filter medium of suitable porosity to obtain a clear solution of purified solid plant particles.
After these initial liquid-solid separation steps, a purification step according to step d) may be carried out, for example by filtration, ultrafiltration and/or nanofiltration, in order to concentrate the target compound at the expense of other compounds.
Thus, in a preferred embodiment of the process of the invention, the temperature of step a) is between 4 ℃ and 100 ℃, the extraction time is between 10 minutes and 4 hours, and the extraction is carried out under conventional stirring or under ultrasound.
The invention also relates to the extract of the pulp and the peel of the suspected amygdalus persica directly obtained by the method.
The present invention also relates to an extract of quasiprepoda obtained directly by the above process, comprising 13.5% to 80.5% of organic acids, including malic acid, citric acid and ascorbic acid, relative to the dry matter of the total extract; 4.0% to 22.0% total sugars including glucose, fructose, sucrose and maltose; 0.5% to 3% minerals including potassium, magnesium, calcium, sodium, manganese, zinc and iron.
The invention also relates to the extract of acroleia japonica as described in the preceding paragraph and further comprising trace amounts of proteins, amino acids and peptides and polyphenols in an amount of 0.08% to 2%, which is directly obtained by the above method.
Third, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising the pulp and the peel of the suspected myrtle fruit of the invention, together with a physiologically acceptable medium.
In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the aqueous-polyol extract of the pulp and pericarp of the suspected myrtle fruit is present in the composition in a concentration of 0.1% to 3%, preferably 0.1% to 1.5%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In another preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention is intended for topical administration more specifically. Therefore, these compositions must comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. compatible with the skin and appendages, and must cover all cosmetic forms. These compositions may in particular be in the form of creams, oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions or emulsions (lemulsion), solutions, suspensions, gels, emulsions (laits), emulsions (suspensions), sticks or powders, suitable for application to the skin, the lips and/or the appendages. These compositions include excipients necessary for their formulation, such as solvents, thickeners, diluents, surfactants, antioxidants, dyes, preservatives and fragrances. They can be used as skin care products and/or as cosmetic products for the skin.
Furthermore, the composition of the present invention comprises any additives commonly used in the intended field of application and adjuvants necessary for the formulation thereof, such as solvents, thickeners, diluents, antioxidants, dyes, sunscreens, tanning agents, pigments, fillers, preservatives, fragrances, odor absorbers, cosmetic or pharmaceutical active ingredients, essential oils, vitamins, essential fatty acids, surfactants, film-forming polymers and the like.
A variety of, but not limited to, cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients commonly used in the skin Care industry and suitable for use as additional ingredients in the compositions of the present invention are described in International cosmetic materials Dictionary and Handbook (International cosmetic ingredients nomenclature, 13 th edition, 2010), published by the Personal Care Products Council, Inc., of Washington, D.C..
Non-limiting examples of these additional categories include: healing agents, anti-aging agents, anti-wrinkle agents, anti-atrophy agents, moisturizers, emollients, antibacterial agents, antiparasitic agents, antifungal agents, fungistatic agents, germicides, bacteriostatic agents, antimicrobial agents, anti-inflammatory agents, antipruritic agents, anesthetic agents, antiviral agents, keratolytic agents, anti-radical agents, anti-seborrheic agents, antidandruff agents, skin differentiation regulating agents, proliferation agents or pigmentation agents, permeation promoters, desquamators, melanin synthesis stimulators or inhibitors, whitening agents, depigmenting or lightening agents, chromogens, tanning agents, NO synthase inhibitors, antioxidants, radical scavengers and/or anti-air-polluting agents, anti-glycosylation agents, skin tightening agents, dermal or epidermal macromolecular synthesis stimulators and/or agents capable of preventing or inhibiting their degradation, collagen synthesis stimulators, elastin synthesis stimulators, skin growth regulators, skin, Decorin synthesis stimulator, laminin synthesis stimulator, defensin synthesis stimulator, chaperonin synthesis stimulator, aquaporin synthesis stimulator, hyaluronic acid synthesis stimulator, synthesis stimulator of lipid and stratum corneum components (ceramide, fat, etc.), collagen degradation inhibitor, elastin degradation inhibitor, fibroblast proliferation stimulator, keratinocyte proliferation stimulator, adipocyte proliferation stimulator, melanocyte proliferation stimulator, keratinocyte differentiation stimulator, adipocyte differentiation stimulator, acetylcholinesterase inhibitor, glycosaminoglycan synthesis stimulator, DNA repair agent, DNA protectant, antipruritic agent, sensitive skin treatment and/or care agent, firming agent, antistriae agent, astringent, sebum production regulator, skin soothing agent, healing aid, re-epithelialization stimulator, Cytokine growth factors, sedatives, anti-inflammatory agents, agents acting on the capillary circulation and/or microcirculation, angiogenic stimulants, vascular permeability inhibitors, agents acting on the cell metabolism, agents improving the dermoepidermal junction area, agents inducing hair and/or body hair growth, inhibitors or slowing agents for hair and/or body hair growth, muscle relaxants, anti-fouling and/or anti-radical agents, lipolytic stimulants, weight loss agents, anti-cellulite agents, agents acting on the microcirculation, agents acting on the cell metabolism, cleansing agents, hair styling agents, hair growth stimulants, sunscreens, sun screen packs, cosmetic agents, detergents, pharmaceuticals, emulsifiers, emollients, organic solvents, preservatives, deodorant active ingredients, physiologically acceptable media, surfactants, abrasives, absorbents, skin care products, hair dressings, cosmetic ingredients such as fragrances, pigments, dyes, colorants and natural colorants, essential oils, contact agents, cosmetic astringents, anti-acne agents, anti-coagulants, anti-foaming agents, antioxidants, ligands, biological additives, enzymes, enzyme inhibitors, enzyme inducers, coenzymes, chelating agents, plant extracts and plant derivatives, essential oils, marine extracts, agents from biological fermentation and/or biotechnology processes, inorganic salts, cell extracts, sunscreens (organic or inorganic sunscreens active on ultraviolet a and/or B rays), ceramides, peptides, buffers, extenders, chelating agents, chemical additives, colorants, cosmetic biocides, denaturants, medicinal astringents, external analgesics, film formers to enhance film formation and substantivity of the composition such as polymers, quaternary ammonium compounds, substantivity enhancers, sunscreens, pH modifiers and regulators (e.g., triethanolamine), propellants, reducing agents, chelating agents, skin lightening and/or skin lightening agents, skin conditioning agents (i.e., moisturizers, including oil films and occlusive agents), moisturizing materials, alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids, moisturizers, epidermal hydrolases, soothing and/or rejuvenating agents, skin care agents, anti-wrinkle agents, agents capable of reducing or treating puffiness beneath the eye, exfoliants, thickeners, softeners, gelling polymers, vitamins and derivatives thereof, moisturizers, exfoliants, sedatives, anti-tumor agents, skin healing agents, lignans, preservatives (i.e., phenoxyethanol and parabens), anti-uv agents, cytotoxic agents, viscosity modifiers, non-volatile solvents, pearlizing agents, antiperspirants, depilatories, vaccines, perfumes, skin lightening agents, and/or skin lightening agents, Skin restructuring agents, excipients, fillers, minerals, antimycobacterial agents, antiallergic agents, H1 or H2 antihistamines, anti-irritants, immune system stimulants, immune system suppressants, insect repellents, lubricants, pigments or colorants, whitening and spot removing agents, photostabilizers, and mixtures thereof, provided that they are physically and chemically compatible with the other ingredients of the composition, particularly with the active ingredients of the present invention.
Furthermore, the nature of these additional ingredients must not unacceptably alter the benefits of the active ingredients of the present invention. These additional components may be synthetic or natural, such as plant extracts, or from biological fermentation processes. Other examples are available in International cosmetic materials dictionary and handbook.
Such additional ingredients may be selected from: aminosugars, glucosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, mannosamine, N-acetyl mannosamine, galactosamine, N-acetyl galactosamine, vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof, nicotinamide, sodium dehydroacetate, dehydroacetic acid and salts thereof, phytosterols, salicylic acid compounds, hexamidine, dialkanoyl dihydroxyproline compounds, extracts and derivatives of soybean, equol, isoflavone, flavonoid, phytantriol, farnesol, geraniol, bisabolol, peptides and derivatives thereof, dipeptides, tripeptides, tetrapeptides, pentapeptides and hexapeptides and derivatives thereof, lys-thr-lys-ser, palmitoyl-lys-thr-thr-lys-ser, carnosine, N-acyl amino acid compounds, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-mannosamine, galactosamine, N-acetyl-D, Retinoids, retinol propionate, retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinal, retinoic acid, water-soluble vitamins, ascorbate salts, vitamin C, ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, vitamins and salts and derivatives thereof, provitamins and salts and derivatives thereof, ethyl panthenol, vitamin B and derivatives thereof, vitamin B1, vitamin B2, vitamin B6, vitamin B12, vitamin K and derivatives thereof, pantothenic acid ethyl ether, panthenol and derivatives thereof, ethyl panthenol, dexpanthenol, biotin, amino acids and salts and derivatives thereof, water-soluble amino acids, asparagine, alanine, indole, glutamic acid, water-insoluble vitamins, vitamin A, vitamin E, vitamin F, vitamin D and compounds thereof, vitamin D and derivatives thereof, vitamin E, vitamin D, vitamin E, vitamin D and derivatives thereof, vitamin E, vitamin A, vitamin D, vitamin C, ascorbyl phosphate, vitamin C, ascorbyl glucoside, vitamin B and derivatives thereof, vitamin B, vitamin, Monoterpenes, diterpenes and triterpenes, beta-ionol, cedrol and its derivatives, water-insoluble amino acids, tyrosine, tryptamine, particulates, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, allantoin, tocopheryl nicotinate, tocopherols, tocopheryl esters, palmitoyl-gly-his-lys, phytosterols, hydroxy acids, glycolic acid, lactic acid, lactobionic acid, keto acids, pyruvic acid, phytic acid, lysophosphatidic acid, stilbenes, cinnamate esters, resveratrol, kinetin, zeatin, dimethylaminoethanol, natural peptides, soy peptides, acid glycosalts, manganese gluconate, zinc gluconate, piroctone olamine, 3,4,4' -trichlorocarbanilide, triclocarban, zinc pyrithione, hydroquinone, kojic acid, ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside, pyridoxine, and mixtures thereof, Aloe vera, terpene alcohols, allantoin, bisabolol, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, glyceric acid, sorbitol, pentaerythritol, pyrrolidone and its salts, dihydroxyacetone, erythrulose, glyceraldehyde, tartaric aldehyde, clove oil, menthol, camphor, eucalyptus oil, eugenol, menthyl lactate, witch hazel distillate, copolymers of eicosene and vinylpyrrolidone, iodopropylbutylcarbamate, polysaccharides, essential fatty acids, salicylates, glycyrrhetinic acid, carotenoids, ceramides and ceramides, complex lipids, oils of general natural origin such as shea butter, almond oil, evening primrose oil, plum oil, palm oil, mornoulli oil, kaya oil, hydroquinone, HEPES, propylcysteine, O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose, disodium salt of methylglycine diacetate, steroids such as diosgenin and DHEA derivative, DHEA dehydroepiandrosterone and/or chemical or biological precursors or derivatives, N-ethylcarbonyl-4-p-aminophenol, bilberry extract, plant hormones, saccharomyces cerevisiae yeast extract, seaweed extract, soybean, rapeseed, flax, spelt wheat, rice, lupin, maize and/or pea extract, alverine and its salts, in particular alverine citrate, ilex and horse chestnut extract and combinations thereof, metalloproteinase inhibitors and boswellia serrata extract.
Such additional ingredients may also be selected from the group comprising: peptides sold under the following trade names:
In all cases, the skilled person will ensure that these adjuvants and their proportions are selected in such a way that the desired advantageous properties of the compositions of the invention are not adversely affected.
Finally, a fourth object of the present invention is to reduce the signs of skin fatigue in healthy people using cosmetic compositions.
Signs of skin fatigue are the result of a combination of multiple factors related to lifestyle (eating habits, exposure to pollution), mood (psychological stress, overwork), and lack of rest or poor quality of sleep (flame et al, How-induced-tiredness mass individual facial appearance in differentiated agents dcacacian who, Int J Cos Sci, 1-9, 2017). Clinically, the most common signs of facial skin fatigue are: edema and dark circles under the eyes, dark skin tone, dry skin, fine lines and exacerbation of wrinkles such as forehead wrinkles or crow's feet lines, and exacerbation of skin laxity; increased nail brittleness and hairline withdrawal associated with fatigue have also been observed in healthy people.
The present application relates to care compositions and cosmetic care methods for healthy people.
At the molecular and cellular level, mitochondrial dysfunction is associated with fatigue (Filler et al, Association of mitochondral dysfunction and failure: a review of the degeneration, BBACLinical, 1, 12-23, 2014). Indeed, mitochondria play a key role in energy production in the form of ATP. Maintenance of intracellular energy levels is essential for cell synthesis, regeneration and division, as well as protection and repair (Blatt et al, Stimulation of skin's energy metabolism multiple peptides for mather human skin, Biofactors 25, 179-185, 2005). Intracellular, energy can also be produced via extra-mitochondrial pathways such as glycolysis and the creatine kinase system. Glycolysis is a key metabolic pathway for proliferating cells, such as skin keratinocytes. Fructose-2-phosphate kinase/fructose-2, 6-bisphosphatase 3(PFKFB3) plays an important role in the regulation of glycolysis by catalyzing the formation of fructose-2, 6-bisphosphate, and the accumulation of fructose-2, 6-bisphosphate promotes the activity of
Creatine kinase is also a key enzyme in cell energy capacity. ATP is stored in The form of phosphocreatine produced by creatine kinase and then allowed to be transported and utilized under high energy demand (Lenz et al, The creative kinase system in human skin: protective effects of creative aging and UVdamagein vitro and in vivo, J Invest Dermatol, 124: 443-.
Therefore, an object of the present invention is the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention for reducing the signs of fatigue that may occur in healthy people, wherein said signs of skin fatigue are selected from: puffiness and dark circles under the eyes, dark skin tone, dry skin, increased fine lines and wrinkles, such as forehead or crow's tail lines, increased skin laxity, increased nail fragility, and receding hairline, or all of these signs.
The invention further relates to the cosmetic use of a composition in which the signs of skin fatigue appear, at the molecular and cellular level, as: ATP production, glycolysis and creatine kinase system, collagen type I expression, PFKFB3 synthesis, reduced levels of messenger rna (mrna) of 11b-HSD2, and increased levels of messenger rna (mrna) of 11b-
The invention further relates to the cosmetic use of the composition of the invention for: increase cellular ATP synthesis, increase creatine kinase activity, increase collagen type I expression, increase PFKFB3 synthesis, decrease messenger rna (mrna) levels of 11b-HSD1, and increase messenger rna (mrna) levels.
The invention and the advantages resulting therefrom will be better understood by reading the following description and the non-limiting embodiments described in relation to the accompanying drawings, in which:
figure 1 shows ATP measurements for dermal fibroblast cultures;
figure 2 shows the measurement of creatine kinase activity in skin fibroblast cultures;
figure 3 shows qPCR measurements on COL1a1 collagen on reconstituted dermis;
FIG. 4 shows the qPCR measurements of 11b-HSD1 and 11b-HSD2 in normal human Keratinocyte (KHN) culture;
figure 5 shows hematoxylin/eosin (HE) staining on the reconstructed epidermis;
figure 6 shows the immunostaining intensity of PFKFB3 on the reconstituted dermis; and
figure 7 shows the measurement of creatine kinase activity on reconstituted dermis.
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