阅读说明：本技术 生物基尼龙56与棉的混纺弹力布的长车生产工艺 (Long-vehicle production process of bio-based nylon 56 and cotton blended elastic cloth ) 是由 唐志钢 蔡大鹏 卢焦生 刘萍 侯娟 黄进华 杨梅 向中林 于 2020-06-17 设计创作，主要内容包括：生物基尼龙56与棉的混纺弹力布的长车生产工艺,涉及机织面料的染色技术领域。采用的长车染色工艺,将坯布先后进行冷堆、短蒸漂、丝光、第一次定型、活性染色、第二次定型、酸性染色、第三次定型和预缩。本发明除了利用长车染色生产工艺具有的优势以外,还能保证半制品手感,染色时分别采用活性染料和酸性染料分两次分别对棉和锦纶进行染色,可有效确保织物的颜色效果。(A long-time production process of bio-based nylon 56 and cotton blended elastic cloth relates to the technical field of dyeing of woven fabrics. The adopted long car dyeing process carries out cold batching, short steaming and bleaching, mercerizing, primary sizing, active dyeing, secondary sizing, acid dyeing, tertiary sizing and preshrinking on the grey cloth in sequence. The invention not only utilizes the advantages of the long car dyeing production process, but also can ensure the hand feeling of the semi-finished product, and the reactive dye and the acid dye are respectively adopted to dye cotton and chinlon for two times during dyeing, thereby effectively ensuring the color effect of the fabric.)

1. The long-vehicle production process of the bio-based nylon 56 and cotton blended elastic cloth is characterized in that the grey cloth is subjected to cold batch, short steaming and bleaching, mercerizing, primary sizing, active dyeing, secondary sizing, acid dyeing, tertiary sizing and preshrinking in sequence.

2. The long-time production process of the bio-based nylon 56 and cotton blended stretch fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that the temperature condition for the first sizing is 195-205 ℃.

3. The long-vehicle production process of the bio-based nylon 56 and cotton blended elastic fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that during the reactive dyeing, the fabric is sequentially subjected to reactive dye padding, infrared pre-drying, stepped heating type drying, then padding color fixing solution, air steaming, washing and drying.

4. The long-turning production process of the bio-based nylon 56 and cotton blended stretch fabric according to claim 3, characterized in that during the reactive dyeing, the temperature condition of infrared pre-drying is 500-900 ℃; the temperature of the step heating type drying is 60-70 ℃, 80-90 ℃ and 100-110 ℃.

5. The long-time production process of the bio-based nylon 56 and cotton blended elastic fabric according to claim 3, characterized in that the formula of the color fixing solution is as follows: 250 g/L of salt; 20g/L of soda ash; 4g/L of caustic soda; the balance of water.

6. The long-lath production process of the bio-based nylon 56 and cotton blended elastic fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that the temperature condition for the second sizing is 100-110 ℃.

7. The long-time production process of the bio-based nylon 56 and cotton blended elastic fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that during the acid dyeing, the fabric is sequentially subjected to acid dye padding and step heating type drying, and then is subjected to steam steaming, water washing and drying.

8. The long-time production process of the bio-based nylon 56 and cotton blended elastic fabric according to claim 7, characterized in that the temperature of the step-heating type drying is 60-70 ℃, 80-90 ℃ and 100-110 ℃ respectively during the acid dyeing.

9. The long-vehicle production process of the bio-based nylon 56 and cotton blended stretch fabric according to claim 1, wherein the temperature condition for the third setting is 100-110 ℃, and a setting agent is adopted.

10. The long-lath production process of blended elastic fabric of bio-based nylon 56 and cotton as claimed in claim 9, wherein the formulation of the sizing agent adopted in the third sizing is a softening agent DT-5258: 10 g/l; color fixing agent FR-2: 20 g/l; and the balance: and (3) water.

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of dyeing of woven fabrics.

Background

The bio-based nylon 56 (also called bio-based chinlon 56) and the cotton blended elastic cloth have the moisture absorption and air permeability of cotton fiber, and also have the strength and wear resistance of the nylon 56, and meanwhile, the elastic cloth can shrink along with the movement of a human body, so that the elastic cloth is comfortable to wear, and is popular with consumers.

Chinese patent document 2012105141100 discloses a nylon cotton acid dyeing one-bath process, which comprises dyeing, fixing and sizing nylon cotton grey cloth after cold piling and desizing, wherein the dyeing is carried out by adding reactive dye and acid dye into the same dyeing tank at the same time and carrying out one-bath dyeing. The process dyes the reactive dye and the acid dye in one bath. Although the acid dye and the reactive dye are used for dyeing in one bath, energy is saved, and the processes are reduced, the phenomenon of dark dyeing can be caused when the dyeing in one bath is adopted for dyeing long cars, and the current situation of dyeing cotton and nylon by the current dyeing method in one bath is also realized.

Compared with the processes of jig dyeing machine production, air flow machine production or overflow machine production and the like, the long-vehicle production process is a continuous production process, fabric enters in a full width mode and goes out of cloth through a long vehicle in a full width mode, and therefore the continuous long-vehicle production process has the advantages of being high in production efficiency, good in gloss and the like.

However, the long-vehicle continuous production process of the bio-based nylon 56 and cotton blended elastic cloth is not mature, and cloth cover internal and appearance quality defects such as poor shrinkage, poor elastic recovery, poor elastic elongation, easy wrinkling of the cloth cover and the like often occur.

Disclosure of Invention

Aiming at the defects existing in the dyeing of the existing blended elastic cloth, the invention provides a long-vehicle production process of bio-based nylon 56/cotton blended elastic cloth.

The long car dyeing process adopted by the invention is characterized in that the grey cloth is subjected to cold batch, short steaming and bleaching, mercerizing, primary sizing, active dyeing, secondary sizing, acid dyeing, tertiary sizing and preshrinking in sequence.

The invention not only utilizes the advantages of the long-vehicle dyeing production process, but also adopts the process steps of firstly cold piling and then short steaming and bleaching to effectively remove various impurities, grease, wax, sizing agent and the like in the grey cloth, thereby ensuring the hand feeling of semi-finished products, and dyeing cotton and nylon respectively twice by adopting reactive dye and acid dye during dyeing, because the dyeing environment of the acid dye is an acid condition, and the color fixing condition in the reactive dyeing process is an alkaline condition, if advanced acid dyeing is carried out and then reactive dyeing is carried out, the acid dyeing is easy to strip, the condition of large color difference can be caused, the phenomenon can not occur when the first reactive dyeing is carried out and then the acid dyeing, and the color effect of the fabric can be effectively ensured.

The invention carries out shaping before active dyeing and acid dyeing, can effectively ensure the stable quality of each product, and effectively improve the shrinkage rate of the finished product, wherein the former two times of shaping mainly aims at stabilizing the width, ensuring the width, swelling or retraction stability of the cloth cover, preventing wrinkling in the dyeing process, and the third time of shaping is for leading the fabric to fully absorb the softening agent and ensuring the hand feeling of the fabric. Finally, the fabric is finished through a third setting and preshrinking process, the hand feeling of the fabric is improved, the shrinkage rate of the product is controlled to be-3% -0%, the warp and weft shrinkage difference is less than or equal to 2%, the elastic elongation is greater than or equal to 26%, the elastic recovery rate is greater than or equal to 94%, and defects that the fabric surface breadth swells and wrinkles can be effectively avoided.

The process is suitable for nylon 56 and cotton blended elastic cloth, and particularly relates to a processing process of blended elastic gray fabric with the cotton content of 71-79%, the bio-based nylon 56 content of 20-26% and the spandex content of 1-3%.

Furthermore, the temperature condition of the first setting is 195-205 ℃. Because the blended fabric contains the spandex elastic fiber component, the shrinkage of the fabric can reach the standard only by adopting the high-temperature setting.

During the reactive dyeing, the fabric is sequentially subjected to reactive dye padding, infrared pre-drying and stepped heating drying, and then is subjected to padding color fixing liquid, steam steaming, washing and drying. After the cloth passes through the dye liquor through the reactive dye, the cloth is pre-dried through an infrared ray and a pre-drying room to prevent migration, the reactive dye generally emphasizes the color fixing process, so the dye liquor is padded, a dyeing environment is created through steam, the dye can better dye the fabric and is fixed on the fabric, then through washing, the loose color on the surface of the fabric is washed away, the unqualified color fastness is prevented, and then the cropping is obtained through drying.

During the reactive dyeing, the temperature condition of infrared prebaking is 500-900 ℃; the temperature of the step heating type drying is 60-70 ℃, 80-90 ℃ and 100-110 ℃. The above measures are all to prevent the problems of cloth cover color caused by dye migration due to too fast temperature rise or unqualified cloth cover fastness caused by dye migration to the surface of the fabric.

The formula of the color fixing solution is as follows: 250 g/L of salt; 20g/L of soda ash; 4g/L of caustic soda; the balance of water.

The temperature condition of the secondary sizing is 100-110 ℃, the expansion or shrinkage of the subsequent dyeing process can be prevented, the width is pulled to a proper width in advance through sizing, the effect is poor if the temperature is low, and the energy waste is caused if the temperature is high.

During the acid dyeing, the fabric is sequentially subjected to acid dye padding and stepped heating type drying, and then is subjected to steam steaming, water washing and drying. After the acid dye of the cloth is rolled through the dye liquor, the acid dye of the cloth is prevented from migrating through infrared rays and pre-drying in a pre-drying room, a dyeing environment is created through steam, the dye can better dye the fabric and is fixed on the fabric, then the color fastness is prevented from being unqualified through washing, and then the rag is obtained through drying.

During the acid dyeing, the temperature of the step heating type drying is 60-70 ℃, 80-90 ℃ and 100-110 ℃ respectively. The purpose of adopting the stepped drying temperature is to dry the cloth surface, and meanwhile, dye migration or the shade and sun surfaces of the fabric cannot be caused.

The temperature condition for the third shaping is 100-110 ℃, and a shaping agent is adopted. The stability of the width can be improved, if the temperature is too low, the effect is not achieved, if the temperature is too high, energy is wasted, the handfeel of the fabric can be effectively improved by adopting the setting agent, and the color fastness of the fabric is improved.

The formula of the sizing agent adopted in the third sizing is a softening agent DT-5258: 10 g/l; color fixing agent FR-2: 20 g/l; and the balance: and (3) water. By adopting the formula, the color fastness of the finished fabric can be effectively guaranteed, and better hand feeling can be obtained.

Detailed Description

Firstly, processing an object:

the blending elastic grey cloth of the bio-based nylon 56 and the cotton has the blending ratio:

cotton: 75 percent;

bio-based nylon 56: 22 percent;

spandex: 3 percent.

Secondly, explaining a plurality of key points in the dyeing treatment process of the long car:

1. cold stacking:

the speed of the cold batch mill is as follows: 50 to 70 m/min.

The cold reactor liquid formula comprises:

NaOH：20～40 g/L；

H₂O₂：16～25 g/L；

refining agent TA-160: 5-8 g/L;

dispersant HSA: 2-3 g/L;

and the balance: and (3) water.

Ambient temperature of stacking: 20-40 ℃.

Stacking time: for 24 hours.

2. Short steaming and bleaching:

and (3) feeding the fabric in an open width manner, carrying out material rolling by soaking in a rolling liquid, then sequentially carrying out air steaming and water washing on the grey fabric, and then carrying out cropping.

In order to ensure the operation of the equipment, the rolling, steaming, washing and cropping speed is 40-60 m/min.

The formula of the padding liquid is as follows:

dispersant HSA: 2-3 g/l;

stabilizer HOP: 4-6 g/l;

refining agent TA-160: 5-9 g/l;

NaOH：4～7 g/l；

H₂O₂：7～11 g/l；

and the balance: and (3) water.

pH value of the mangle: 10 to 11.

Steam box temperature for steam: 100 to 105 ℃.

Temperature of water tank for washing: 90-95 ℃.

3. Mercerizing:

speed of the mercerizing machine: 60-80 g/l.

Alkali concentration: 180-220 g/l.

Temperature of impact reduction: 70-85 ℃.

Neutralizing alkali by adopting a water washing mode after mercerizing: the pH value of the water for washing is 4-4.5.

4. Setting 1:

the speed of the setting machine is as follows: 40 to 60 m/min.

Temperature of the drying room: 195-205 ℃.

5. And (3) reactive dyeing:

after padding with dye, the fabric is firstly dried by adopting infrared pre-drying, then the fabric is dried by sequentially passing through No. 1, No. 2 and No. 3 pre-drying rooms, and then the fabric is subjected to padding color fixing liquid, steam steaming, washing, drying and cropping.

The vehicle speed of each device is as follows: 30 to 50 m/min.

The reactive dyeing formula comprises:

S-G black: 55 g/L;

RGBN gold: 3 g/L;

RGBN red: 10 g/L;

the balance of water.

Infrared prebaking temperature: 500 to 900 ℃.

The pre-drying temperatures of the three pre-drying rooms are as follows:

1# Pre-baking Room temperature: 60-70 ℃.

2# Pre-baking Room temperature: 80-90 ℃.

Temperature of # 3 pre-baking room: 100 to 110 ℃.

The formula of the color fixing solution is as follows:

salt: 250 g/L;

soda ash: 20 g/L;

caustic soda: 4 g/L;

the balance of water.

Steam box temperature for steam: 100 to 105 ℃.

Temperature of water for washing: 1-3 #: washing with water at normal temperature; 4 to 8 #: hot water washing (at 90 deg.C); 9 to 10 #: washing with water at normal temperature;

drying temperature before cropping: 90-130 ℃.

6. Shaping 2

The speed of the setting machine is as follows: 50-70 ℃.

Temperature of the drying room: 100 to 110 ℃.

7. Acid dyeing:

after padding with acid dye, the cloth cover is dried in a pre-drying room No. 1, 2 and 3 in sequence, and then the cloth cover is steamed, washed, dried and doffed.

The vehicle speed of each device is as follows: 30 to 50 m/min.

The acid dye formula comprises:

2S-LD Black: 53 g/L;

NHFS Red: 2 g/L;

NHFS navy blue: 1.5 g/L;

the balance of water.

Three pre-baking room temperatures:

1# Pre-baking Room temperature: 60-70 ℃.

2# Pre-baking Room temperature: 80-90 ℃.

Temperature of # 3 pre-baking room: 100 to 110 ℃.

Steam box temperature for steam: 100 to 105 ℃.

Temperature of water for washing: 1-3 #: washing with water at normal temperature; 4 to 8 #: hot water washing (at 90 deg.C); 9 to 10 #: washing with water at normal temperature;

drying temperature before cropping: 90-130 ℃.

8. And (3) setting:

the speed of the setting machine is as follows: 50-70 ℃.

Temperature of the drying room: 100 to 110 ℃.

The shaping agent formula comprises:

softening agent DT-5258: 10 g/l;

color fixing agent FR-2: 20 g/l;

and the balance: and (3) water.

9. Pre-shrinking:

the speed of the pre-shrinking machine is as follows: 50 to 70 m/min.

Cloth shrinkage: 0.5 percent.

Thirdly, quality and analysis of the inner and outer appearance of the finished product:

therefore, the bio-based nylon 56 and cotton blended elastic fabric treated by the process has excellent performance in testing various indexes of internal and external quality.