阅读说明：本技术 一种双面卷压染的方法 (Double-sided jig dyeing method ) 是由 朱梦阳 于 2019-02-12 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明公开了一种双面卷压染的方法。包括：(1)定制镂空图案再通过激光切割、铸造、焊接或3D打印的方式制作成镂空管；(2)将面料捆绑在管上,灵活变换捆绑和卷压的方向、力度；(3)将面料用手绘或浸染的方式上染；(4)水洗去除浮色、固色、拆下。本发明将原来只有单面、线条单调的卷压染布料,转变成双面、拥有正负线性的布料,将管上的镂空图形有机拆解融入面料的线性纹样中,使纹样更灵动丰富。此外,用此发明不仅一次染色即可双面上染,提高了生产效率,而且一个管可制作多种不同程度的纹样变形效果,得到多样化的面料,减少多余模具的浪费。双面卷压染增加了面料的可持续性、美观性,增宽了其适用性,可大货生产用途广泛的工艺品。(The invention discloses a double-sided jig dyeing method. The method comprises the following steps: (1) customizing the hollow pattern, and manufacturing the hollow pattern into a hollow tube in a laser cutting, casting, welding or 3D printing mode; (2) binding the fabric on the tube, and flexibly changing the binding and rolling directions and forces; (3) dyeing the fabric in a hand-painting or dip-dyeing manner; (4) washing with water to remove floating color, fixing color, and removing. The invention changes the original jig-dyed cloth with single surface and single line into the double-sided cloth with positive and negative linearity, and organically disassembles the hollow patterns on the tube and fuses the hollow patterns into the linear patterns of the fabric, so that the patterns are more flexible and abundant. In addition, the double-sided dyeing method can be used for dyeing on two sides by one-time dyeing, the production efficiency is improved, and one tube can be used for manufacturing pattern deformation effects with different degrees, so that diversified fabrics are obtained, and the waste of redundant molds is reduced. The double-sided jig dyeing improves the sustainability and the attractiveness of the fabric, widens the applicability of the fabric, and can be used for producing artware with wide application in large-scale production.)

1. A double-sided jig dyeing method. The method is characterized in that:

(1) drawing a hollow pattern by a computer, and manufacturing a hollow pipe by laser cutting, casting, welding or 3D printing.

(2) And binding the pretreated fabric on the hollow pipe, and rolling and fixing.

(4) Dyeing, washing with water to remove loose color and fixing color.

2. A method of double-sided jig dyeing according to claim 1, comprising: the hollow pattern can be abstract geometric patterns, pictographic animals and plants, figures and landscapes.

3. A method of double-sided jig dyeing according to claim 1, comprising: the method for manufacturing the hollow pipe comprises the steps of laser cutting and 3D printing.

4. A method of double-sided jig dyeing according to claim 1, comprising: the fabric is selected from cotton, hemp, silk, wool, leather, chemical fiber fabric and DuPont paper.

5. A method of double-sided jig dyeing according to claim 1, comprising: the direct and active dye is used for manually drawing and dip-dyeing the cotton, hemp and viscose fabrics in the hollow-out jig-press dyeing from the inside and the outside of the pipe.

6. A method of double-sided jig dyeing according to claim 1, comprising: the silk, leather, pure wool and nylon fabrics in the hollow-out jig dyeing are painted and dip-dyed by weak acid dye from the inside and the outside of the pipe by hand.

7. A method of double-sided jig dyeing according to claim 1, comprising: and (3) manually drawing and dip-dyeing the terylene and chinlon fabric in the hollow jig dyeing from the inside and the outside of the pipe by using disperse dyes.

8. A method of double-sided jig dyeing according to claim 1, comprising: and 4, discharging and dyeing the color fabric in the hollow-out jig dyeing by using sodium hydrosulfite.

9. A method of double-sided jig dyeing according to claim 1, comprising: dupont paper and natural fabrics in the hollow-out jig dyeing are dip-dyed by plant dyes.

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the field of jig dyeing, and particularly relates to a double-sided jig dyeing method.

Background

The jig dyeing is naturally generated at home and abroad, the process is the only tie dyeing process for producing large goods in Japan, the linear appearance of the tie dyeing process also accords with the current aesthetic culture, partial fabrics can also generate a three-dimensional effect through the process, and the subordinate tie dyeing process is also a non-material cultural heritage of China. The initial point of the history of the dye-padding in China is fuzzy, but a writer interviews Sichuan from dawn teachers who are inherited by hereditary heritage of the Gong Tie-dyeing non-material culture, and knows that the technique of winding cloth on a wooden stick for dye-padding appears very early in the Sichuan (before seventy years of the last century). The earliest literature data of the dye-rolling in China is from practical clothing manual printing and dyeing technique (1993) of Mr. Chiland Chiense, and a section of the technique specially introduces the dye-rolling technique, namely binding cloth on a thin round pipe for binding and rolling, or binding and rolling two pipes, and freely binding the middle connecting part. Then different colors are point-dyed, and the obtained product is put into a dyeing pot for integral dyeing, so that a colored jig-dyeing work with the combination of stripes and other tie-dyeing patterns is obtained.

In recent years, three inventions have been applied in the field of dye jiggers, which belong to teachers of bauhinia and pistil of liu-yuehu university. Firstly, (CN101929046A) the folded fabric is rotated into a twist shape and then coiled on a tube for fixing and dyeing; firstly, (CN103774466A) the fabric is partially folded, bound, rolled and pressed, and the fabric is partially freely tie-dyed and colored; and another (CN101929085A) replaces the tube with a spring, and utilizes the expansion and contraction principle of the spring to tightly clamp the cloth therein, thereby playing a role in preventing the dyeing.

In summary, these patents or retrievable jig dyeing works at home and abroad find: the single side of the cloth is bound and dyed by a jig dyeing process, and the aesthetic degree of the other side (the side facing the pipe) of the cloth is not considered; the dyeing-proof lines produced by the rolling and pressing processes are monotonous in shape, only the line shape is left white, and no detail content in the lines exists; if the other side needs to be dyed, the cloth needs to be turned over and tied up again for dyeing, and a great deal of time and energy are consumed. The unique charm of the jig dyeing is yet to be further developed.

Disclosure of Invention

The method aims to improve the current situation that the anti-dyeing line produced by the rolling process is monotonous in shape, and simultaneously avoids the situation that a large amount of time and energy are consumed because the cloth needs to be turned over and tied up again for dyeing if the other side needs to be dyed. The invention combines the permeability of dye in the hollow tube with the linear dye-proofing principle of the jig dyeing. The front side and the back side of the manufactured fabric are simultaneously dyed with patterns (one side is linear, and the other side is deconstructed of a hollow pattern and linear patterns after deformation) which have different styles and are integrally positive and negative, so that the two-time dyeing is not needed, the production efficiency is greatly improved, and the fabric has dual-purpose and sustainability. Meanwhile, even if the tube is the same hollow pattern tube, different pattern effects can be generated according to the difference of the rolling mode and the force during manual rolling, the process combines artificial design and the randomness of dye permeation, and the manual design sense and the interestingness are increased. Compared with the current industrial dyeing, each different pattern needs to be manufactured with different tools, the double-sided jig dyeing can flexibly change the length of the hollow pattern on the cloth according to the requirement on the same pipe, flexibly deconstruct the pattern, and not simply copy, thereby reducing the manufacture of unnecessary tools to the maximum extent and reducing the production cost.

The technical scheme adopted by the invention for solving the technical problems is as follows:

(1) customizing the special hollow pattern, and manufacturing the hollow pipe through laser cutting, casting, welding or 3D printing.

(2) And binding the pretreated fabric on the fabric, and rolling.

(3) And (6) dyeing. And (5) washing to remove floating color and fixing color.

In the step (1), the specific hollow pattern may be abstract geometric shape, such as plant, figure, animal, landscape, etc. However, the hollowed-out part is not easy to be too large, and enough uncut area is reserved to prevent deformation in bundling, and the principle is like a paper-cut pattern.

In the step (1), the tube may be made of stainless steel, iron, 3D printing material, or other material that has a certain firmness and can be dyed at a high temperature.

In the step (2), the fabric is selected from cotton, hemp, silk and chemical fiber fabric with a certain thickness, and pure wool, leather and DuPont paper with any thickness.

In the step (2) of double-sided roll dyeing, the fabric binding force and the roll pressing method (the fabric is directly pushed downwards, is rolled and twisted leftwards or rightwards while being pushed, and some regions are pushed while some regions are not pushed) have influence on the pattern. The greater the binding force, the stronger the contrast between the dyeing and the dye-resistant area in the linear hollow pattern; the higher the rolling force is, the more obvious the texture of the hollow pattern is deconstructed and deformed; the shape of the large block dyed on the cloth in the hollow-out mode can be different (stripe shape, diamond shape and the like) due to different rolling methods.

In the step (3), dyeing can be divided into hand-drawing and dip dyeing. The order of the two is determined according to the situation. Preferably, the dyeing process is carried out with a light color. Can be directly painted with reactive dye by hand or dip-dyed with cotton, hemp and other materials; the weak acid dye is used for hand-drawing or dip-dyeing fabrics such as silk, leather, wool, nylon and the like; dyeing the polyester fabric by using the disperse dye; dip-dyeing dupont paper and natural fabric with a plant dye; and the non-dyeing part of the color fabric can be discharged by using the sodium hydrosulfite, and the color dyeing-resistant lines are left. The fixing agent of the direct dye and the acid dye is Y-shaped; and the reactive dye and sodium hydrosulfite are fixed by using sodium carbonate.

The invention has the beneficial effects that the invention adopts a double-sided jig dyeing method, effectively improves the monotonous dyeing visual effect which is only single-sided, and the dyeing areas on the front and back sides are positive and negative: one side is linear, the other side is linear pattern after the deconstruction and deformation of the hollow pattern, and the simple duplication of the non-hollow pattern makes the lines contain vivid hollow elements. The same hollow pipe can also produce different pattern effects if the rolling force and the rolling manipulation are different, thereby saving the redundant die manufacturing and improving the dyeing efficiency at the same time and under the labor force. The interestingness, the dual-purpose property and the sustainability of the jig-dyeing fabric are improved, and the manual work and the randomness of the jig-dyeing are better combined.

Drawings

The invention is further illustrated with reference to the following figures and examples.

FIG. 1 is a schematic view of a hollow pattern; the black part is solid, and the white part is hollow.

FIG. 2 is a diagram showing the effect of hollowing out the tube;

FIG. 3 is a diagram showing the rolling effect of the hollow pipe;

FIG. 4 is a detail view of the positive and negative effects of the fabric;

in the figure, 1 is a front detail, and 2 is a back detail (the side facing the hollow tube). Black is a colored part and white is a resist part.

FIG. 5 is a drawing of two fabrics with different rolling forces in the same tube;

in the figure, for the same hollow cylinder, the rolls of different forces press two same fabrics to produce different back details (parts facing the hollow pipe), taking a square hollow cylinder as an example. 1. The rolling force is light, and 2, the rolling degree is heavy. Black is a colored part and white is a resist part.

Detailed Description

[ example 1 ]

Customizing an exclusive hollow pattern, manufacturing a hollow pipe by laser cutting or 3D printing, binding the pretreated fabric on the hollow pipe, rolling, dyeing, washing to remove floating color, and fixing color.

1. Customization of hollow pattern

The hollow pattern can be abstract geometric patterns, pictographic animals and plants, figures, landscapes and the like, and proper patterns are selected according to themes. The pattern non-hollowed parts must be able to be connected to each other and not be completely disconnected, as in the conventional paper-cut pattern. And the hollowed-out area is not too large to prevent the pipe from deforming due to the fact that the pipe cannot bear binding pressure. Here, a hole with a diameter of 1mm is used as an example to regularly arrange the hollow pattern.

2. Making hollow pipe

The material of the selected tube can be stainless steel, iron, 3D printing material and other materials which have certain firmness and are convenient for dyeing. The method can utilize laser cutting to cut out the required delicate hollow on the material and then weld the material into a pipe by casting, or build a three-dimensional model on a computer and print out the hollow pipe by a 3D printer. The tube cross-section is a geometric figure. The pipe body can be a straight pipe type, a three-dimensional wave type or a three-dimensional broken line type. Here, a 304 stainless steel round tube is taken as an example.

3. Fabric pretreatment

And putting the fabric to be desized in warm water for soap boiling desizing, or adding a detergent, a bleaching agent and the like to remove impurities and bleach the fabric. The fabric is preferably selected from medium-thick and thick cotton and hemp (direct or active dye), real silk and chemical fiber fabric, leather material (weak acid dye) with any thickness and DuPont paper material (plant dye has good effect, and the dye uptake can be improved by kneading before dyeing). Herein, cotton cloth, silk satin and dupont paper are taken as examples to exemplify the dyeing process of different dyes corresponding to three materials:

4. binding and rolling

The fabric is bound on the pipe by various materials which can be bound and fixed, such as thread, cloth strip, cowhide band and the like. One or more thread ropes can be used, and the state of the fabric laid on the pipe can be different forms such as flat laying, twisting, overlapping and the like. Here, the more classical ivy mercerized cotton thread is taken as a binding thread, and cotton, silk satin and crumpled dupont paper are respectively bound on 3 stainless steel hollowed-out cylinders. Then rolling, the rolling method can be straight pushing, left rolling and right rolling. The rolled tube needs to be immersed in water to be wet, taken out and wrung for standby, and can also be directly dyed in a dry state for special effects.

5. Dyeing and fixing

(1) And (3) manually drawing the fabric, wherein the manual drawing can be performed before compression, before dip dyeing and after dip dyeing:

direct dye hand-painting on cotton cloth (the accelerating agent is salt, and the fixing agent is Y-shaped); acid dye is used for hand-painting on real silk satin (the accelerating agent is glacial acetic acid, and the color fixing agent is Y-shaped.) Dupont paper is not suitable for hand-painting by plant dyeing, and plant dyeing is directly carried out.

The common concentration of the hand-painted dye is 0.5 percent of light color, 1 to 2 percent of medium color and 3 to 5 percent of dark color. The dye concentration can be increased or decreased according to the actual situation. Example preparation of a 0.5% dye solution: 500mg of dye are weighed out precisely on a balance and 100ml of soft water are weighed out, and then a portion of the dye is used to melt the dye (direct, weak acid boiled with boiling water, activity boiled with warm water) and slurried, and the remaining water is poured in. The fabric needs to be subjected to color testing, preferably, whether the hue and shade of the dye are required colors after drying and fixation, and then further blending and hand-drawing are carried out. When the textile pigment is drawn by hand, a blower can be used while drawing to assist in controlling the blurring of the ink. Not only can be hand-painted on the surface of the fabric, but also can be attached to the fabric from the interior of the tube through the hollow part of the tube. The fabric painted by hand with the dye liquor can be directly put into dip dyeing after being slightly dried, and finally the color is fixed together. If better colorfastness is desired, the method is: after the semi-finished product of the hand painting is dried, the whole pipe is laid on the prepared gauze, a layer of gauze is covered on the gauze, and the gauze is put in a steamer with a steaming rack for steaming. The water is not too close to the steaming rack when the water is put into the pot. Newspaper is put on the steaming rack, the pipe and the gauze are put on the steaming rack, and then a layer of newspaper is covered on the steaming rack. Steaming for about 30 min. The silk satin also needs to be shaped by high-temperature high-pressure steam, and a household pressure cooker can be selected. Washing with water to remove floating color, wringing out and proceeding to next step.

(2) Fabric dip dyeing and color fixing

The amount of dye, dyeing time and dyeing temperature need to be flexibly increased and decreased according to the binding tightness and the water absorption rate of the fabric. The dyeing can be carried out for a plurality of times in different colors from light to dark. Besides coloring, the dye can also be discharged to produce the jig dyeing works in a mode of discharging the color. (8% of rongalite, steaming the bundled cloth in a steamer for about 8min, and judging the time length by visually observing the color stripping condition of the fabric, taking out the fabric for washing, and adding a small amount of soap solution.) A plurality of conventional dyeing methods are listed in detail.

a. Direct dye dip dyeing and color fixing of cotton cloth:

weighing out required dye according to the weight of the fabric and the dyeing concentration, uniformly mixing and dissolving the dye by using hot soft water, and dissolving salt by using water for standby. Preparing a dye solution according to bath amount, heating to about 50 ℃, putting the dye into the dye solution, heating to raise the temperature to a boiling point, adding half of the salt into the dye solution after dyeing and boiling for 10min, stirring uniformly, adding the other half of the salt after boiling and dyeing for 10min, boiling for 10min, taking out, washing with water and fixing the color. The color fixing is that the color fixing agent is measured out according to the weight of the fabric and the proportion of the formula. The color fixing agent Y or M (specific gravity% to fabric) is 0.8-1.2, the dye liquor amount is 1: 20-40, warm water with the temperature of 50-60 ℃ is used for preparing the color fixing liquor, and the fabric is placed in the color fixing liquor for color fixing for 15 min.

The dyeing formula comprises the following components:

material	Shallow	In	Deep to
				Dye (to fabric weight%)	0.5 or less	0.5～2	2 or more
Accelerant salt (g/L)	3	3～7	7～15
				Amount of dye (Water)	1∶20～40	1∶20～40	1∶20～40

b. Dip dyeing and color fixing of the reactive dye of the cotton cloth:

weighing the required dye according to the weight of the dyed object, dissolving the dye by cold water, and dissolving salt for later use. The dye liquor is prepared according to the bath amount. The temperature is about 30 ℃, salt is added after 10min, soda ash is added after 30min, dyed materials are taken out after 30min, the loose color is washed out, thread ropes are removed, water washing is carried out, then soaping is carried out for 10min, the soaping temperature is over 95 ℃, and finally cold washing and air drying are carried out.

The dyeing formula comprises the following components:

material	Shallow	In	Deep to
				Dye (to fabric weight%)	0.5	0.5～2	2 or more
Accelerant salt (g/L)	3～10	10～20	20～30
				Amount of dye (Water)	1∶25～40	1∶25～40	1∶25～40
Color fixing agent soda ash	5～10(g/L)	5～15(g/L)	15～20(g/L)

c. Acid dye dip dyeing and color fixing of real silk satin:

weighing out the required dye according to the weight of the fabric, uniformly mixing and dissolving the dye by using a little hot water, and adding water according to the bath amount to prepare the dye solution. Heating the dye liquor to 50-60 ℃, putting the fabric into the dye liquor, heating to 80-90 ℃, adding glacial acetic acid, boiling and dyeing for about 30min, taking out the fabric, washing off the floating color on the binding object, removing the yarn, washing with water, fixing the color by 15% of a color fixing agent Y (based on the weight of the fabric), wherein the dye liquor amount is 1: 25-40, washing with water, and drying in the air.

The dye formula comprises:

d. plant staining of dupont paper:

the preparation of dye liquor usually uses indigo paste, rice wine, alkali (plant ash or lime) and clear water, and is stirred and fermented. The indigo liquor ratio is generally 1: 50 (where the ratio of indigo is measured as indigo dosed into the liquor during the indigo dyeing process), the indigo liquor ratio is 1: 1, alkali is dosed to bring the pH of the liquor between 9 and 11, and the bath ratio is 50: 1. Firstly preparing an alkaline solution by alkali and clear water, then taking a proper amount of indigo and wine (the wine must be pure rice wine, the higher the degree is, the better the degree is), fully and uniformly mixing, then putting the indigo wine mixture into the prepared alkaline solution, immediately stirring to fully and uniformly mix a plurality of components, then covering and sealing a dye solution, and standing for three days. After the indigo dyeing water is prepared, the dyeing liquor is added with indigo half of the amount of indigo before, and the indigo is mixed with rice wine, poured into the indigo dyeing water, still stirred by a wood bar, sealed and stood for use.

And then putting the rolled pipe into clear water for soaking, taking out, wringing, and putting into a dye solution for dyeing for 10-20 min. Turning over continuously during the period, taking out, wringing, and reducing for about 20 min. If the color is needed to be darker, putting the mixture into a dye vat to continuously dye for 10-20 min, and taking out and fully reducing the mixture for about 20 min. And by analogy, fully reducing the obtained product after the color with the desired degree is obtained, and washing off the floating color by using clear water.

6. Making the finished product

The double-side dyed jig-dyed cloth can be used for manufacturing products such as double-side clothes, double-side bread, accessories, cultural wounds, indoor soft clothing and the like, can be produced in large quantities, and has wide application.