Cosmetic composition comprising rose extract
阅读说明：本技术 包含蔷薇提取物的化妆品组合物 (Cosmetic composition comprising rose extract ) 是由 M·迪马 J·弗兰希 V·热罗尼莫 V·佩谢 K·拉祖 于 2018-05-16 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明涉及一种局部应用于皮肤的化妆品组合物,其包含在生理学上可接受的介质中的至少有效量的至少一种蔷薇的水提取物和至少一种蔷薇的油提取物,及其特别地用于促进皮肤细胞的自然节律过程和/或改善皮肤的微量营养平衡的用途。(The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for topical application to the skin comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least an effective amount of at least one aqueous rose extract and at least one oily rose extract, and its use, in particular, for promoting the natural rhythmic processes of skin cells and/or for improving the micronutrient balance of the skin.)
1. A cosmetic composition for topical application to the skin comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least an effective amount of at least one aqueous extract of rose and at least one oily extract of rose.
2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises at least one aqueous phase comprising the aqueous extract of rose and at least one fat or oily phase comprising the oily extract of rose.
3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the aqueous and oily extracts of roses are extracts of roses, preferably evanarat or Jardin deAn extract of rose flowers of the rose species.
4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it is in the form of a dispersion of a fat or oil phase in an aqueous phase, in particular selected from an emulsion, a macroemulsion, a nanoemulsion, a microemulsion, a pickering emulsion, a solid dispersion of fatty substances or a dispersion of oil droplets stabilized by a polymer film.
5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the oily extract of roses comprises an extract of roses in a vegetable oil, preferably sunflower oil, in particular in a weight ratio ranging from 1:99 to 10:90 (vegetable extract: oil) and is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10%, in particular from 0.5% to 5%, according to a particular embodiment from 1% to 2%, by weight of the starting materials, based on the total weight of the composition.
6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the aqueous extract of roses comprises an extract of roses in a polar solvent, in particular in a weight ratio ranging from 0.5:99.5 to 10:90 (plant extract: polar solvent), and is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10%, in particular from 0.5% to 5%, according to a particular embodiment from 1% to 4%, by weight of the raw materials, based on the total weight of the composition.
7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it is in the form of a dispersion of oil droplets comprising Evanrat or Jardin de in a gelled aqueous phase
8. Cosmetic process for promoting the natural rhythmic processes of skin cells and/or the micronutrient balance of the skin, comprising the application to the skin, in particular to the skin of the body, face and/or neck, in particular to the skin of the face and/or neck, of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7.
9. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of at least an effective amount of at least one aqueous rose extract and at least one oily rose extract in a cosmetic composition as an agent promoting and/or improving the natural rhythmic processes of skin cells, the micronutrient balance of the skin, the lipid metabolism of the skin, the barrier function of the skin, the hydration and/or the regeneration of the skin.
10. The non-therapeutic cosmetic use of claim 9, wherein the effective amount of at least one aqueous rose extract and at least one oil rose extract stimulates expression of epidermal clock genes and expression of genes involved in lipid metabolism, skin barrier, cell differentiation, cell communication and/or cell adhesion.
Technical Field
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one aqueous rose extract and one oily rose extract and to the uses thereof, in particular to the use thereof for promoting the natural rhythmic processes of the skin cells and/or for improving the micronutrient (micronutrient) balance of the skin.
Background
It is well known that the quality of nutrition is reflected in the health of the skin and that certain skin diseases are associated with deficiencies, in particular deficiencies of certain micronutrients (Park k. role of micronutrients in skin health and function. biomol. ther. 2015; 23; 207-.
The skin's micronutrient balance may be affected by external and/or internal factors such as fatigue, stress, oxidation, UV irradiation and/or cellular senescence.
In particular, subjects exposed to these factors were observed to have:
lower levels of hydration (this difference increases with age);
-deficiency of essential fatty acids (ω 3 and ω 6);
-lack of long chain fatty acids in ceramides (poor barrier function); and/or
Lower squalene content (alteration of the sebaceous membrane protecting the skin surface).
These observations highlight imbalances, particularly in micronutrients.
These nutrients or nutritional components are known to be particularly helpful at the skin level in establishing an environment that is conducive to the repair of barrier function, in contributing to skin hydration, and thus revitalizing the skin in the long term to be less prone to premature aging.
Micronutrients are essential for the development and formation of the skin (the constantly evolving organs), the physiological renewal of the epidermis and the adaptation of the skin to its environment (as a protective envelope). They each have a particular role, with complementary functions covering many aspects of skin metabolism (Park k. role of microorganisms in skin health and function. biomol. term. 2015,23: 207. 217; Polefka t. interaction of minor salt of the skin a tissue culture surface. int j. cosmetic. sci.2012,34: 416. 423; boelsia. nutrient skin car: health effects of microorganisms and properties. am. j. protein. kernel. 2001,73: 853. 864; Winkler p. minerals and the skin nutrition and reaction for antibiotics-reagent, property evaluation and 7, pp. 2011. 7; major edition: 109. 7:
-participation in antioxidant protection (vitamin A, E, vitamin C, zinc, selenium);
essential for lipid, carbohydrate or protein metabolism (vitamins B3, B5, vitamin C for collagen synthesis), energy production (vitamin B2, magnesium);
help the enzyme to function properly by providing the metal ions (copper, manganese, selenium, zinc, iron) required for the enzymatic activity;
-modulation of epidermal differentiation (calcium);
-is involved in maintaining membrane potential, maintaining fluid balance, and plays a role in skin hydration (potassium and sodium);
help strengthen the watery lipid film, which helps the skin to maintain elasticity and softness (essential fatty acids):
linoleic acid (ω 6) is involved in the production of cell membranes and is used in the composition of ceramides;
α -linolenic acid (ω 3) is also involved in the fluidity of the membrane, these eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) derivatives being known to have anti-inflammatory properties;
oleic acid (ω 9, optional) is known to have nourishing, repairing and healing properties.
The use of vitamins (A, E, C) and/or essential fatty acids in the formulation of cosmetic compositions for skin is known, in particular for their protective and/or nutritional effects, but there is still a need for new compounds to maintain and/or promote the nutritional balance of the skin, thereby stimulating hydration, skin barrier and/or skin regeneration.
However, many metabolic pathways have been shown to be controlled by clock genes present in individual cells of the body.
Skin cells also have such clock genes that function in a circadian and autonomous manner, constituting a functional cellular biological clock (Sandu C. human skin keratinocytes, melanocytes, and fibroplasts protein breakdown circle sciences cell. mol. Life Sci.2012,19:3329 + 3339). These clock genes control the expression rate and strength of genes involved in skin surface and barrier quality, hydration, resistance and/or skin regeneration.
By analyzing the rhythmic expression of clock genes in epidermal keratinocytes, 24 hours of the day can be subdivided into 5 consecutive time periods. Each time period corresponds to the expression of a set of genes involved in a different metabolic pathway; over 5000 genes are under their control. These metabolic pathways include pathways for lipid metabolism (ceramide synthesis, fatty acid transport, etc.), glucose metabolism and calcium homeostasis (synthesis and organization of skin barrier lipids, glucose utilization, epidermal maturation under calcium control), all of which are important for skin nutrition. These metabolic pathways have been shown to be subject to 4 clock genes: cycle 1(Period1, PER1), cycle 2(
Surprisingly, the applicant has demonstrated the effect, in particular the complementary effect, of aqueous rose extracts and oily rose extracts in stimulating in vitro the expression of various clock genes in cultured normal human epidermal keratinocytes: the water extract of rose according to the present invention plays a role in the expression of CRY2, PER1 and PER3 genes, while the oil extract of rose according to the present invention plays a role in the expression of PER2 gene. Thus, the use of aqueous and oily extracts of rose is advantageous in maintaining and/or stimulating the natural rhythmic processes of skin cells that are critical to the above metabolic pathways.
At the same time, the applicant has also observed the effect of these extracts on the target genes of these clock genes, which are involved in particular in lipid metabolism and barrier function, thus, rose Oil extract ("Satin Oil (Satin Oil)") stimulates the expression of ceramide synthase (CERS3) involved in lipid metabolism, calmodulatory protein 3(CALM3) bound to calcium and involved in particular in cell cycle regulation, keratin 1(KRT1) involved in cell differentiation, gap junction α -1 protein (GjA1) (also known as connexin 43(Cx43)) involved in cellular communication and transport and desmoglein 3(DSC3) involved in cell adhesion in human keratinocytes, and rose water extract ("rose frozen extract (Cryoxxit)") stimulates the protein expression of the epidermal maturation markers keratin 10(KRT10) and the epidermal adhesion marker desmoplakin 1(DSG1) in human keratinocytes.
Preferably, according to the invention, these two rose extracts are used in a formulation that allows to exert their full potential: thus, each rose extract is used separately in the aqueous phase (for aqueous extracts) and in the fat or oil phase (for oily extracts) depending on its polarity, so that they are better dispersed for optimal efficacy after application to the skin.
Disclosure of Invention
A first subject of the invention relates to a cosmetic composition for topical application to the skin comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least an effective amount of at least one aqueous rose extract and at least one oily rose extract. According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous and oily extracts of rose are extracts of rose flowers.
Another subject of the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for promoting the natural rhythmic processes of skin cells and/or the micronutrient balance of the skin, which comprises applying to the skin, in particular to the skin of the body, face and/or neck, in particular to the skin of the face and/or neck, a cosmetic composition as defined herein.
According to the invention, "natural rhythmic processes of skin cells" refer in particular to natural processes involving clock genes of skin cells that act in a circadian and autonomous manner, the action of which is to control, at the skin cell level, the expression rate and intensity of target genes involved in many metabolic pathways.
According to the invention, "micronutrient balance of the skin" means in particular the balanced amount and diversity of the micronutrients naturally present in the skin, provided in particular by food.
The invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of at least an effective amount of at least one aqueous rose extract and at least one oily rose extract as an agent in a cosmetic composition, said agent promoting and/or improving the natural rhythmic processes of skin cells, the micronutrient balance of the skin, the lipid metabolism of the skin, the barrier function of the skin, the hydration and/or the regeneration of the skin.
In particular, the effective amount of at least one aqueous rose extract and at least one oil rose extract stimulates the expression of epidermal clock genes and the expression of epidermal clock target genes involved in lipid metabolism, skin barrier, cell differentiation, cell communication and/or cell adhesion in particular.
Detailed Description
The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition for topical application to the skin comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least an effective amount of at least one aqueous rose extract and at least one oily rose extract.
The aqueous rose extract and the oily rose extract are present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in amounts effective to achieve the desired effect.
In particular, they will each be present at a level of from 0.1% to 10%, in particular from 0.5% to 5%, or even from 1% to 4% by weight of the starting materials, based on the total weight of the composition. Illustrative examples are given below.
According to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase comprising the aqueous extract of rose and at least one fat or oily phase comprising the oily extract of rose.
Plant material
The extract of the present invention is a rose extract. According to the present invention, the terms rose extract, rose bush extract and Rosa (Rosa) extract are used interchangeably.
The extract may be selected from different parts of the plant or mixtures thereof, in particular a leaf extract, a flower (petal) extract, a sepal extract, a wood (stem) extract or mixtures thereof.
Advantageously, it is a flower extract, in particular a fresh flower extract.
The genus Rosa contains more than 1000 species including Rosa damascena (Rosa damascosa), Rosa multiflora (Rosa multiflora), Rosa veneriformis (Rosa centifolia), Rosa rugosa (Rosa rugosa), Rosa chinensis (Rosa chinensis), Rosa moschata (Rosa moschata), Rosa alba (Rosa alba), Rosa alpina, Rosa canina (Rosa canina), Rosa rubra (Rosa cincamonoea), Rosa france (Rosa gallica), Rosa repens (Rosa reptiles), Rosa purpura (Rosa rubra), Rosa rubra (Rosa rubigina), Rosa rugosa (Rosa sempervirens), Rosa spinosa (Rosa spinosynensis), Rosa strosa stosa, Rosa multiflora (Rosa tomeosa) and Rosa pumila.
The skilled person will preferably select a rose with disease resistance which is vigorous and blossoming, in particular with a soft tone, and whose properties are retained by the organic environment and the method of cultivation. According to a particular and preferred embodiment, Evanrat or "Jardin de will be used
“Jardin de
Thus, according to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the aqueous and oily extracts of rose are extracts of rose flowers, preferably evanarat or Jardin de
The rose extract according to the invention is an extract rich in natural (non-volatile) compounds, respectively in polar natural compounds (for aqueous extracts) and non-polar natural compounds (for oil extracts). The extract according to the invention is different from rose essential oil or rose water containing volatile compounds. The rose essential oil is obtained by extracting or distilling volatile molecules (e.g. terpenes, aromatic molecules) from rose, and the rose water or rose hydrosol is obtained by distilling rose petals and contains volatile perfuming molecules.
According to the invention, they are in particular extracts of roses, the extraction of natural (non-volatile) compounds being carried out from roses in the presence of water (polar) or oil (non-polar) solvents, respectively, and used in the formulation in the form of aqueous or oily solutions or concentrates, the solvent of the concentrate being the extraction solvent and/or another solvent.
In fact, the inventors have demonstrated that the rose extract according to the invention contains micronutrients and natural compounds of interest to the skin and that the combined use of a polar (aqueous) extract of rose and a non-polar (oil) extract of rose is able to provide all the nutritional and organoleptic benefits of rose in the same cosmetic composition.
As natural polar compounds of interest present in the aqueous extract of roses according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of:
vitamins B3 and B5, which are antioxidants,
minerals and trace elements, which are associated with a skin protection and repair system,
sugars (sucrose, glucose, fructose), which are the core of the skin's energetic processes,
-flavonoid-type polyphenols (such as kaempferol and quercetin derivatives) having anti-radical activity, and
amino acids, which are a source of vitality and protein components of cells.
As natural apolar compounds of interest present in the oil extract of roses according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of:
fat-soluble vitamins, such as vitamin E or α -tocopherol, which are antioxidants,
omega-3, 6 and 9 and fatty acids, which are involved in elasticity and epidermal tissue dynamics,
antioxidant phytonutrients, which protect and strengthen the skin,
sterols β -sitosterol and stigmasterol, which are regulators of immunity and cholesterol metabolism, and
-non-polar phenols having antioxidant and antimicrobial properties.
The aqueous and oily extracts of roses according to the invention can be obtained by various methods known to the skilled person, in particular those described below.
According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the extraction method described below, suitable for use in the present invention, will use the Evanrat variety, preferably Jardin de
An aqueous extract of rose (extract aqueux) (also referred to as "freeze extraction" in the illustrative examples of the invention Get thing')
In the specification, the terms aqueous, polar and hydrophilic extracts of rose are used interchangeably. The aqueous rose extract is advantageously obtained using a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent.
According to the invention, an "aqueous extract of rose" means that polar (hydrophilic) compounds of rose flowers have been dissolved in a polar solvent and/or have been extracted into a polar solvent.
The flowers may have been dried and/or ground prior to the extraction step itself. Advantageously, freshly harvested flowers are used.
The extract may be prepared by various extraction methods known to the skilled person, involving the steps of grinding the plant material, dispersing the ground material in a polar solvent, separating the soluble and insoluble phases by filtration, concentration and optionally redissolution.
According to the present invention, the term "polar solvent" means a solvent having a polarity index of 4 or higher. The polarity index is a quantity calculated from thermodynamic quantities (solubility and state change) and shows the magnitude of the polarity of the molecule. For solvent polarity index, see l.r. snyder article: classification of the solvent properties of commonalities; journal of Chromatography,92(1974),223- > 230.
Preferred polar solvents are solvents consisting of compounds comprising at least one polar covalent bond of the O-H type. Particularly preferred polar solvents are selected from water and C1-C4Alcohols (e.g., ethanol), glycols (e.g., ethylene glycol, glycerol, butylene glycol, and propylene glycol, and mixtures thereof). Advantageously, water, ethanol or mixtures thereof will be used.
According to a particular embodiment, the plant material is extracted using a water-alcohol mixture, preferably a mixture of water and ethanol. In particular, the plant material is extracted using a solvent consisting of water and ethanol, wherein ethanol comprises 50% to 99% v/v of the water/ethanol mixture. Preferably, the plant material is extracted using a mixture of 30% v/v water and 70% v/v ethanol. The extraction can be carried out thermally by refluxing or by dipping at room temperature.
Ultrasound is advantageously used during extraction to improve the overall efficiency of extraction.
The extraction process advantageously comprises a filtration step to separate the liquid phase from the waste plant material.
The extraction and filtration cycle may be repeated multiple times to deplete the plant material of substances having an affinity for the extraction solvent.
The extraction process may also comprise at least one decolorizing and/or purifying step, for example in the form of treating the extract with a solution of at least one polar solvent in the presence of activated carbon particles. In particular, chlorophyll extracted from the solvent is removed.
The extraction process may also be accomplished by a step of partially or totally removing the extraction solvent.
It is advantageous to concentrate the extract by removing some of the solvent or mixture from the extraction solvent.
This can result in an aqueous concentrate that does not contain significant amounts of organic solvent, or a dry residue by removing all of the extraction solvent.
Alternatively, the product of the extraction step may be freeze-dried or atomized to form a powder.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the aqueous extract of roses according to the invention is obtained according to a process which makes it possible to increase the extraction yield and to enrich the extract with water-soluble products normally contained in plant juices, in particular sugars, mineral salts, proteins which are micronutrients for the skin.
Thus, according to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, an aqueous extract of rose is obtained by freeze-grinding (cryo-broyage) and cold extraction of rose flowers, thereby retaining heat sensitive molecules.
This method is described in particular in patent application EP0425391, incorporated by reference.
The method comprises in particular the steps of:
-subjecting the rose to a first grinding at a temperature of-10 ℃ to-40 ℃,
-second grinding of the rose fraction obtained in the previous step at a temperature of-40 ℃ to-100 ℃ in the presence of liquid nitrogen,
sieving the fraction obtained in the preceding step with a sieve having a particle size of 2mm to 100 μm, preferably less than 500 μm, in particular 100 μ to about 500 μm,
-pressing the fraction recovered in the previous step and reducing to a temperature of 0 ℃ ± 5 ℃ before performing the following operating cycle: freezing to a temperature of-10 ℃ to-40 ℃, suspending these frozen fractions in an amount of water approximately equal to the amount of liquid obtained in the previous step, pressing the suspended fractions into water and reducing to a temperature of 0 ℃. + -. 5 ℃,
-filtering the obtained liquid and recovering the filtrate,
-concentrating the filtrate by removing cold water,
advantageously freezing the concentrated solution obtained in the previous step.
According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the aqueous extract of rose (also called "frozen extract" in the following illustrative example) according to the invention comprises 0.5% to 10% by weight of dry matter (active substance) of rose extract and 90% to 99.5% by weight of a 50:50 mixture of water and glycerol. Preferably, the "frozen extract" comprises 0.5% to 1.5% by weight of dry matter (active substance) and 98.5% to 99.5% by weight of a 50:50 mixture of water and glycerol.
This Water extract of rose is known by the INCI name Water, glycerol, rose extract (Water, glycerine, RoseExtract).
The name may also be rose Hybrid Flower Extract, Water, Glycerin (Rosa Hybrid Flower Extract, Water, glycerine).
According to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the aqueous extract of rose comprises an extract of rose flowers in a polar solvent (in particular in a weight ratio ranging from 0.5:99.5 to 10:90 (plant extract: polar solvent)) and is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10%, in particular from 0.5% to 5%, according to a particular embodiment from 1% to 4%, by weight of the raw materials, based on the total weight of the composition.
The aqueous extract of rose according to the invention, in particular obtained by the freeze-grinding process described above, advantageously comprises polar micronutrients such as vitamins (vitamin B3, vitamin B5), trace elements (zinc, copper, iron, manganese), sugars (sucrose, glucose, fructose), amino acids (aspartic acid) and flavonoids polyphenols (such as kaempferol and quercetin derivatives).
Oil extract of Rosa multiflora Thunb (extract) huileux) (also known as "Silk satin lush oil" in the illustrative examples)
In the specification, the terms oil extract, non-polar extract and lipophilic extract of rose are used interchangeably.
The oil extract of roses according to the invention, inspired by the polar paradox theory of the antioxidants of PORTER and FRANKEL or the physicochemical behaviour of the antioxidants in continuous oil systems and dispersion systems, enables the miscibility of hydrophilic compounds, such as antioxidants or phenols, with oily compounds, comprising for example phospholipids (molecules with polar functional groups), under the physicochemical action generated by ultrasound and microwaves.
More simply, the molecules are selectively extracted from plants (in particular roses) by powerful techniques based on physical principles, using oils or fats (in particular vegetable oils) as bioactive agricultural solvents, to obtain concentrated oil mixtures, which are stable carriers ready for formulation.
According to the invention, "oil extract of roses" means in particular that the nonpolar (lipophilic) compounds of the roses have been dissolved in the oil and/or have been extracted into the oil.
The oily extract of roses according to the invention may be obtained according to conventional methods known to the skilled person, such as the method of immersion in an oily solvent, such as those described in WO2008/132127 or FR2693906, optionally under microwave irradiation (as described in FR 2694300) to reduce the extraction time.
According to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the oil extract of rose is obtained by a dynamic extraction method (also known as "dynamic flower extraction flavour") by energy activation of the plant and carrier oils for the transfer of active substances, pumping from the medium with the highest concentration to the medium with the lowest concentration. The method combines a plurality of steps (cryo-milling, ultrasound, microwave, filtration) of short duration (each step <15 minutes) and inertization in nitrogen and protection from light during the transition to limit the oxidation phenomena.
This opens the plant cell, destroys the medium, and allows extraction of molecules that are normally insoluble in oil, which are miscible with the oil carrier, according to dynamic rearrangement.
In fact, the inventors have observed that the total phenol content of the "dynamic flower extraction aroma" extraction process is advantageously higher, i.e. 25 to 40 times higher, compared to the "traditional flower extraction aroma" extraction process (traditional maceration). Compared with conventional method for extracting flower fragrance and polar solvent (such as water), the method can remove phenols contained in flos Rosae Multiflorae.
This method is described in particular in patent application WO2010/112760, incorporated by reference. In particular, the method comprises:
at least one step a) of mixing and impregnating the solid raw material with the natural fat at a temperature above the melting point of the oil, in an oxygen-free or substantially oxygen-free atmosphere,
-at least one step b) of heating the mixture to a high temperature using microwaves for a very short period of time in an oxygen-free or substantially oxygen-free atmosphere,
-at least one step c) of microdispersing the material to be extracted using ultrasound waves at a temperature above the melting point of the fat, in an oxygen-free or substantially oxygen-free atmosphere, and optionally rupturing the raw material cells in the natural fat,
step c) can be carried out before, during or after step b).
The starting material is preferably ground beforehand at a low temperature of-20 ℃ to-80 ℃ (cryogrinding).
Advantageously, in or before step c), an oxygen-capturing compound or a reducing compound (a compound regenerated in reduced form, tocopherols in the oil and phenolic compounds in the oil extracted by the process or pro-oxidant metal chelating agent) is added, which compounds contribute to the improvement of the oxidative stability of the final product.
As fats or vegetable oils which can be used as extraction carriers for the oil extract according to the invention, the following vegetable oils and fats can be mentioned in particular:
vegetable oils, such as: deodorized sunflower oil, virgin sweet almond oil, virgin rose hip oil, avocado oil, safflower oil, camellia oil, jojoba oil, borage oil, grapeseed oil, argan oil, nigella oil, pumpkin seed oil or perilla oil, and mixtures thereof,
-butter, such as: pterocarpus marsupium butter, mango butter, shea butter and mixtures thereof,
-vegetable waxes, such as: carnauba wax, beeswax, candelilla wax, jojoba wax and mixtures thereof,
-and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the organic deodorized oil using orange yellow is used as sunflower oil.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, in the starting mixture used in step a), the weight ratio of starting material (rosebush) to oil is from 1:0.5 to 1:10, preferably from 1:1 to 1:5 (expressed as mass: mass of oil or mass: volume of oil).
According to a preferred embodiment, the oil extract of rose according to the invention is obtained according to the following method: fresh frozen flowers were freeze-ground and mixed with organically deodorized oil with sunflower oil (in particular dry plant to oil ratio of 1:10 to 1:5), then subjected to different successive extraction steps by using microwave extraction followed by ultrasonic extraction. The centrifugal filtration step results in a precious oil, which is protected from stability because each step is carefully performed under nitrogen. We obtained an oil concentrate of rose or an oil extract of rose, which was Jardin de
The raw materials may be used in this manner, or combined with other materials to form a new oil mixture.
According to a preferred embodiment, the oil extract of rose according to the invention comprises 98.5% to 99.5% of organic deodorized oil sunflower oil and 0.5 to 1.5% of rose extract (dry matter or active matter from rose extract).
The INCI names of such oil extracts of roses are Rose extract and sunflower seed oil (sunflower) seed oil).
The INCI name may also be rose Hybrid flower extract, sunflower seed oil (Rosa Hybrid flower extract, sunflower seed oil).
According to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the oily extract of roses comprises an extract of roses in a vegetable oil, preferably sunflower oil (in particular in a weight ratio ranging from 1:99 to 10:90 (plant extract: oil)), and is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10%, in particular from 0.5% to 5%, according to a particular embodiment from 1% to 2%, by weight of the raw materials, based on the total weight of the composition.
Analysis of this extract fraction showed that it was rich in non-polar micronutrients, in particular:
fatty acids (main compounds)
C16:0 (palmitic acid)
C18:0 (stearic acid)
C18:1 (oleic acid-omega 9)
C18:2 (linoleic acid-omega 6)
C20:0 (arachidic acid)
C20:1 (eicosenoic acid-omega 9)
C22:0 (behenic acid)
-fat-soluble vitamins (α -tocopherol)
β -sitosterol and stigmasterol, and
-apolar phenols.
According to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, at least:
-aEvanrat or Jardind obtained according to the freeze extraction method described in patent application EP0425391An aqueous extract of rose flowers of the species Rosa multiflora; in particular an extract comprising 0.5% of dry matter and 99.5% of a water/glycerol mixture (referred to as "frozen extract" in the illustrative example) and
evanrat or Jardin de obtained by the dynamic flower extraction flavour method described in patent application WO2010/112760
Typically, the aqueous extract of rose in the final cosmetic composition is present in an amount of from 0.1% to 10%, in particular from 0.5% to 5%, and according to one particular embodiment from 1% to 4% by weight of the above-described raw materials based on the total weight of the composition. For a raw material comprising 0.5% by weight of a dry extract of roses, this is equal to 0.0005% to 0.05% by weight, in particular 0.0025% to 0.025%, and according to a particular embodiment 0.005% to 0.02% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, based on the weight of dry (active) matter.
Typically, the content of the oil extract of roses in the final cosmetic composition is from 0.1% to 10%, in particular from 0.5% to 5%, and according to a particular embodiment from 1% to 2%, by weight of the above-described raw materials, based on the total weight of the composition. Since the oil extract represents 100% dry extract, for a starting material comprising 1% rose extract this amounts to 0.001% to 0.01%, in particular 0.005% to 0.05% by weight of active substance from rose extract and according to one particular embodiment 0.01% to 0.02% by weight of active substance from rose extract.
Advantageously, the weight ratio of the aqueous extract to the oil extract of the rose flowers in the final cosmetic composition is from 5:1 to 1:1, preferably 3:1, calculated as active substance.
Galen (Gal nique)
The cosmetic composition of the invention may be in any galenic form suitable for topical application to the skin, such as a cream oil, an oil-in-water emulsion, a water-in-oil emulsion, a multiple emulsion or a hydrogel.
Advantageously, a cosmetic composition will be used comprising at least one aqueous phase and at least one fatty or oily phase, in which each rose extract according to the invention can be optimally dispersed according to polarity, so as to fully exert its effect when the composition is applied to the skin.
Thus, according to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase comprising the aqueous extract of rose and at least one fat or oil phase comprising the oil extract of rose.
A preferred embodiment according to the invention is a process for obtaining a dispersion of a fatty phase comprising an oil extract of rose in an aqueous phase comprising an aqueous extract of rose. According to a particular embodiment, it will be an oil-in-water emulsion, in which the size of the oil droplets or globules may range from a few nanometers to a few millimeters, depending on the desired effect.
The skilled person will be able to select an appropriate method by specifically referring to the following publications regarding the definition and size of the different types of emulsions: emulsion Formation, Stability, and Rheology, Prof. Dr. TharwatF. Tadros, published on-line: 29
http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/9783527647941.ch1/summary.
the skilled person will be able to select the method of measuring particle size and distribution according to the desired size range, by dynamic or static light scattering for droplets of 5nm to 100 μm, in particular with reference to the following publications: "Light Scattering by Small Particles" by H.C. van de Hulst, 24.5.1982, or for droplets or spheres of more than 100 μm, by image analysis.
According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is in the form of a dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase, in particular selected from an emulsion, a macroemulsion, a nanoemulsion, a microemulsion, a pickering emulsion, a solid fat dispersion or an oil droplet dispersion stabilized by a polymer film.
Exemplary embodiments are described below, but not limited thereto (the average diameter of oil droplets in the aqueous phase is indicated within brackets).
According to a first embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the invention may have the form of an oil-in-water emulsion or a macroemulsion (0.1-100 μm).
According to a second embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the invention may have the form of an oil-in-water nanoemulsion (20-100 nm).
According to a third embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may have the form of a microemulsion or micellar emulsion (5-50 nm).
These three systems are typically kinetically or thermodynamically stabilized by surfactants, preferably with a high HLB (> 8 at 25 ℃), or associative polymers such as associative polyurethane (Adekanol GT 700).
According to a fourth embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the invention may have the form of a pickering emulsion stabilized by silica or clay particles (such as kaolinite or montmorillonite).
According to a fifth embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the invention may have the form of a fat solid dispersion of spherical or spheroidal shape (50 μm to 10mm), as described in particular in patent application FR 2649608. According to this embodiment, the fatty phase is heated to completely melt it and is mixed with the aqueous phase heated to the same temperature, then rapidly cooled with stirring.
According to a particular and preferred sixth embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition of the invention is in the form of a dispersion of droplets of the first oil phase in the second aqueous phase, said droplets or "beads" (interfacial coalescence between cationic and anionic polymers) (500 μm to 5mm) being stabilized by a polymer film on the surface, as described in patent application FR2972371, which is incorporated by reference.
Each droplet comprises a core formed by an oil phase and a shell formed by a coacervate interposed between the oil phase and the aqueous phase, said layers being formed by the interaction at the interface of the two phases of a first precursor lipophilic polymer contained in the oil phase and a second precursor hydrophilic polymer contained in the aqueous phase.
According to a particular embodiment, the oily phase of the rose-containing oil extract further comprises a lipophilic polymer ionizable in contact with the aqueous phase, for example a polymer comprising silicone and comprising ionizable functional groups, said lipophilic polymer advantageously being a polydimethylsiloxane derivative, such as aminoterminal polydimethylsiloxane and its derivatives.
According to another particular embodiment, the lipophilic polymer is provided by an oil phase, referred to as the reaction phase, different from the oil phase comprising the oil extract of roses.
In addition, the aqueous phase comprises an acrylic hydrophilic polymer, such as acrylic acid or maleic acid, and at least one other monomer (such as acrylamide, alkyl acrylate, C acrylic acid)5-C8Alkyl esters, acrylic acid C10-C30Alkyl esters, methacrylic acid C12-C22Alkyl esters, methoxypolyethylene glycol methacrylate, hydroxy acrylate).
According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the step of hardening the droplets is based on the formation of a coacervate at the interface between the polyacrylic acid contained in the aqueous phase and the aminosilicone (aminoterminated polydimethylsiloxane) provided by the oil phase, after the formation of the droplets. The meeting of these two polymers results in the coalescence and hardening of the film around the droplets.
The advantage of this formulation is that the oil extract of rose is microencapsulated in oil droplets protected by a super-thin film and is stable without the need for surfactants. After application, the film broke and disappeared. Thus, there is no interface between the water and the oil and the skin can immediately act without hindrance. The transition between these two phases produces a very distinctive sensory transition with a unique tactile sensation and allows the protected rose extract in each phase to be bioabsorbed directly by the skin.
Thus, according to a particular and preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, a silicone-in-water emulsion, a multiple emulsion, or preferably in the form of a dispersion in which droplets (or "beads") of oil stabilized by a polymeric membrane are suspended in a preferably gelled aqueous phase.
The aqueous phase typically comprises from 1% to 99% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
The composition is preferably intended for application to the face and takes the form of, for example, a skin cream, a facial solution, a facial skin gel.
Water phase (phase aquouse)
The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally a water-miscible solvent.
According to the present invention, a "water-soluble solvent" refers to a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility with water at 25 ℃ and atmospheric pressure is greater than 50% by weight). Mention may be made in particular of:
-lower C1-C5Monohydric alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, and mixtures thereof;
-C2-C8glycols, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1, 3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof;
-C2-C32polyols, such as polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols and mixtures thereof,
and mixtures thereof.
It may also contain hydrophilic gelling agents, antioxidants, preservatives and mixtures thereof.
As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may be made in particular of polyacrylic acids, such as those known under the INCI name "Carbomer" or under the trade name
According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises a gelled aqueous phase, in particular an aqueous phase gelled by the presence of at least one polyacrylic acid polymer.
Fat or oil phase (phase grass ou huileuse)
The cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises a fat (solid fat) or an oil phase.
By "oil phase" is meant an oil or a mixture of mutually soluble oils. In the sense of the present invention, "oil" means a fat insoluble in water, liquid, preferably non-volatile, at 25 ℃ and 0.1MPa, having a vapour pressure not zero less than 2.6Pa, preferably less than 0.13Pa, at 25 ℃ and 0.1 MPa.
The oil phase according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, optionally fluorinated oils and mixtures thereof.
These oils may be volatile or non-volatile, vegetable, mineral or synthetic.
According to the invention, "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil mainly comprising hydrogen and carbon atoms.
According to the invention, a "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, in particular at least one Si — O group.
According to the invention, a "fluorinated oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
As the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, there may be mentioned in particular hydrocarbon oil, vegetable hydrocarbon oil, C10-C40Synthesis of Ether, C10-C40Synthetic ester, C12-C26Fatty alcohol, higher C12-C22Fatty acids and mixtures thereof.
As the nonvolatile silicone oil, there may be mentioned in particular a phenylated silicone oil, a non-phenylated silicone oil and a mixture thereof.
In the compositions of the present invention, the oil may comprise from 1% to 95% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
The fat or oil phase may also comprise lipophilic gelling agents, film-forming polymers, surfactants, antioxidants and mixtures thereof.
According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous phase comprises at least one polyacrylic acid and the oily phase comprises at least one aminosilicone (aminoterminated polydimethylsiloxane). The combination of these two polymers causes the coalescence and hardening of the film around the droplets, so that they are suspended in the aqueous phase, which itself may advantageously be transparent and gelled.
According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises less than 5% by weight of surfactant, in particular less than 2% by weight of surfactant, preferably less than 1% by weight of surfactant, more preferably no surfactant.
The composition of the present invention may further comprise any additive commonly used in cosmetics, such as UV filters, antioxidants, fragrances, cosmetic active agents, such as emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, anti-aging agents, whitening agents and mixtures thereof.
According to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is in the form of a dispersion of oil droplets comprising evanart or Jardin de in a gelled aqueous phaseAn oil extract of rose of the rose species, the gelled aqueous phase comprising Evanrat or Jardin de
The oil phase of this composition comprises at least one amino silicone (amodimethicone) and the aqueous phase comprises at least one polyacrylic acid.
Furthermore, the cosmetic composition preferably comprises at least:
-Evanrat or Jardind obtained according to the freeze extraction method described in patent application EP0425391
evanrat or Jardin de obtained by the dynamic flower extraction flavour method described in patent application WO2010/112760
According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the invention does not comprise any other rose extract than the rose extract according to the invention.
Cosmetic method
The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for promoting the natural rhythmic processes of the skin cells and/or the micronutrient balance of the skin, which comprises applying to the skin, in particular to the skin of the face and/or neck, a cosmetic composition as defined previously according to the invention.
The composition may be applied to the body, face and/or neck. According to a particular embodiment, the composition is applied to the face and/or neck.
Advantageously, and with knowledge obtained by the applicant about the role of clock genes in skin cells and their circadian oscillations, the cosmetic composition of the invention can be applied to the skin of the face and/or neck in the morning to optimize the skin care and obtain the benefit of improvement of the skin barrier and skin resistance.
Cosmetic use
The invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of at least an effective amount of at least one aqueous rose extract and at least one oily rose extract as an agent in a cosmetic composition, said agent promoting and/or improving the natural rhythmic processes of skin cells, the micronutrient balance of the skin, the lipid metabolism of the skin and/or the skin barrier function.
According to a particular embodiment, the effective amount of at least one aqueous rose extract and at least one oil rose extract stimulates the expression of the epidermal clock gene and the expression of epidermal clock target genes involved in particular in lipid metabolism, skin barrier, cell differentiation, cell communication and/or cell adhesion.
In particular, the aqueous extract of rose according to the invention stimulates the clock gene: expression of cryptochrome circadian clock2 gene (CRY2),
The water extract of rose according to the present invention stimulated the gene expression of keratin 10(KRT10) and desmoglein 1(DSG1), and the oil extract of rose according to the present invention stimulated the gene expression of ceramide synthase (CERS3), calmodulin 3(CALM3), keratin 1(KRT1), gap junction α -1 protein (GJA 1)/connexin 43(Cx43) and desmoglein 3(DSC 3).
The water and oil extracts of roses used according to the invention are described above.
Preferably, the following will be used:
-Evanrat or Jardind obtained according to the freeze extraction method described in patent application EP0425391An aqueous extract of rose flowers of the species Rosa multiflora; in particular an extract comprising 0.5% of dry matter and 99.5% of a water/glycerol mixture (referred to as "frozen extract" in the illustrative example) and
evanrat or Jardin de obtained by the dynamic flower extraction flavour method described in patent application WO2010/112760
The invention will now be elucidated by the following figures and non-limiting examples.
Drawings
FIG. 1: activation of CRY2 gene transcription in KHN treated with rose extract.
FIG. 2: activation of transcription of PER1 gene in KHN treated with rose extract.
FIG. 3: activation of transcription of PER3 gene in KHN treated with rose extract.
Detailed Description
Materials and methods
The plant material used to obtain the aqueous and oily extracts of roses illustrated in these examples is the roses (petals) of the Evanrat variety, in particular the Jardin de available from the nursery
Aqueous rose extract ("frozen extract")
The plant material used is roses (petals) of the Evanrat variety, in particular Jardin de, available from the nursery
The aqueous extract of rose flowers is obtained by the freeze extraction process described above, in particular by the process described in patent application EP 0425391. The resulting frozen extract contained 0.5% by weight of dry matter (active substance), 49-50% by weight of water, 49% by weight of glycerol and a suitable amount to 100% of preservative. The INCI name of the water extract of rose is water, glycerin, rose extract or rose hybrid extract, water, glycerin.
Oil extract of rose (Silk satin oil)
The plant material used is roses (petals) of the Evanrat variety, in particular Jardin de, available from the nursery
The oil extract of rosehips is obtained by the dynamic flower aroma extraction method described above, in particular by the method described in patent application WO 2010/112760. The obtained oil extract "satin gloss oil" comprises 0.5-1.5% by weight of rose dry matter (active substance) and 98.5-99.5% by weight of organic deodorized oil sunflower oil.
The INCI name for this oil extract of rose is rose extract and sunflower seed oil or rose hybrid extract, sunflower seed oil.
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