阅读说明：本技术 一种美白、抗皱组合物及其护肤品 (Whitening and anti-wrinkle composition and skin care product thereof ) 是由 方电力 成雪斐 周梅 李成良 高雅媛 于 2019-12-12 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明涉及一种美白、抗皱组合物及其在护肤品中的应用,按照重量百分比计,包括：0.06-0.10%肌肽、0.05-0.15%泊洛沙姆物理改性的维生素C或维生素C衍生物、0.01-0.04%柠檬酸、0.005-0.01%季铵盐抑制剂、余量去离子水。所述护肤品应用精华液、乳剂、霜剂等。本申请同时采用维生素C或维生素C衍生物和肌肽作为美白、抗皱护肤品的主要活性成分,并对维生素C或维生素C衍生物进行改性,获得美白和抗皱功效优异、同时还能使得美白活性成分稳定的护肤品。(The invention relates to a whitening and anti-wrinkle composition and application thereof in skin care products, wherein the composition comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 0.06-0.10% carnosine, 0.05-0.15% poloxamer physically modified vitamin C or vitamin C derivatives, 0.01-0.04% citric acid, 0.005-0.01% quaternary ammonium salt inhibitor, and the balance deionized water. The skin care product can be applied to essence, emulsion, cream and the like. According to the skin care product, the vitamin C or the vitamin C derivative and the carnosine are used as main active ingredients of the skin care product for whitening and resisting wrinkles, and the vitamin C or the vitamin C derivative is modified, so that the skin care product which is excellent in whitening and resisting wrinkles and capable of enabling the whitening active ingredients to be stable is obtained.)

1. The whitening and anti-wrinkle composition is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by weight: 0.06-0.10% carnosine, 0.05-0.15% poloxamer physically modified vitamin C or vitamin C derivative, 0.01-0.04% citric acid, 0.005-0.01% quaternary ammonium salt inhibitor, and the balance deionized water; pH 5.8-6.7; the poloxamer physically modified vitamin C or vitamin C derivative is modified by the following steps: dissolving poloxamer in a certain amount of deionized water at room temperature, and stirring to dissolve the poloxamer; then reducing the temperature to 5-15 ℃, adding vitamin C or vitamin C derivatives under vacuum condition, dispersing with ultrasonic wave, evaporating water by low temperature evaporation technology to obtain poloxamer physically modified vitamin C or vitamin C derivatives, and finally freeze drying.

2. The whitening and anti-wrinkle composition according to claim 1, wherein a poloxamer having a polyoxyethylene molecular weight ratio of more than 30% is selected; the weight percentage of poloxamer and vitamin C or vitamin C derivatives is 35-45: 55-65.

3. The whitening, anti-wrinkling composition according to claim 1 wherein said quaternary ammonium salt inhibitor is selected from the group consisting of quaternary ammonium salt-73.

4. The whitening and anti-wrinkle composition according to claim 1, further comprising one or a combination of two or more of a humectant, a thickener, an emulsifier, a solubilizer and a preservative.

5. The whitening and anti-wrinkle composition according to claim 4, wherein the humectant is selected from one or a combination of more than two of 1, 3-butanediol, sodium stearyl sulfate, glyceryl polyether-26, glyceryl polyacrylate, glyceryl polymethacrylate, sodium hyaluronate, sodium PCA and trehalose; the weight percentage of the humectant is 0.1-2.5%.

6. The whitening and anti-wrinkle composition according to claim 4, wherein the thickener is one or more selected from xanthan gum, carbomer and polyacrylic acid; the weight percentage of the thickening agent is 0.5% -4%.

7. The whitening and anti-wrinkle composition according to claim 4, wherein the emulsifier is one or more selected from the group consisting of cetearyl glucoside, cetearyl alcohol, PEG-100 stearate; the weight percentage of the emulsifier is 0.05-1.2%.

8. The whitening and anti-wrinkle composition according to claim 4, wherein the preservative is selected from one or more of phenoxyethanol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, benzoic acid, methylparaben and ethylparaben; the weight percentage of the preservative is 0.01-0.05%.

9. The preparation method of the whitening and anti-wrinkle composition according to claims 1-8, characterized by adding carnosine into deionized water, stirring to mix uniformly, then heating to 40-65 ℃, adding other components, keeping warm and stirring to disperse uniformly; controlling the temperature to be reduced to 5-15 ℃, adding poloxamer physically modified vitamin C or vitamin C derivatives, and stirring uniformly; citric acid is added and the pH value of the solution is adjusted to 5.8-6.7.

10. The use of the whitening and anti-wrinkle composition as claimed in claims 1 to 8, wherein the whitening and anti-wrinkle composition is used to prepare essence, emulsion and cream.

Technical Field

The invention relates to the field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a whitening and anti-wrinkle composition and a skin care product thereof.

Background

Whitening anti-wrinkle skin care products in the cosmetic field have strong market demands because yellow skin color generally has the problems of skin pigmentation, dark or dark yellow skin color, lack of luster, wrinkles and the like.

Especially, female skin aging is more apparent with aging and increased external irritation. The metabolism of the skin is slowed down, the moisturizing factors in the dermis are reduced, the functions of elastic fibers and collagen fibers in the dermis are reduced, the tension and the elasticity of the skin are weakened, and fine lines, wrinkles and dull and yellow skin appear on the skin. In addition, proteins in the skin are glycosylated with reducing sugars, which leads to crosslinking denaturation of extracellular matrix proteins and formation of glycosylation end products, resulting in loss of elasticity, loss of luster and yellowing of the skin. By blocking the glycosylation sites of the protein, the glycosylation of the protein is prevented, and the degradation of the glycosylated protein is promoted, so that the effects of whitening and brightening the skin can be achieved. Vitamin C is known in the art as an effective antioxidant, which has the effect of inhibiting melanin synthesis by epidermal melanocytes to prevent pigment accumulation. Due to these beneficial effects, these cosmetic active ingredients have great potential as skin care ingredients for improving and/or preventing wrinkles associated with pigment accumulation and skin aging. Although vitamin C is relatively stable when dried, it has the disadvantage of being easily oxidized in aqueous solution in the presence of air and water. If the vitamin C is directly used with other components in the skin care product, the vitamin C is easily oxidized and loses efficacy, thereby reducing the using effect of the skin care product.

Various cosmetics or skin care products are available on the market, but most skin care products adopt a combination of multiple polypeptides and/or plant extracts as efficacy active substances of the skin care products, so that the obtained effect of the skin is single and the effect is slow; moreover, most skin care products on the market currently taking polypeptide as an active functional substance are prepared by directly adding polypeptide or polypeptide stock solution into a conventional skin care product matrix, and no corresponding research is carried out on the stability of the whole formula.

Through a large amount of search, the applicant usually adopts vitamin C alone or carnosine alone as an active ingredient in the prior art, and does not adopt vitamin C and carnosine simultaneously as main active ingredients of the skin whitening and anti-wrinkle skin care product.

Therefore, it has been a technical problem in the art how to develop a skin care product having excellent whitening and anti-wrinkle effects and having stable whitening active ingredients.

Disclosure of Invention

Aiming at the defects of the prior art, one of the purposes of the invention is to provide a whitening and anti-wrinkle composition with excellent whitening and anti-wrinkle effects.

The invention also aims to provide a preparation method of the whitening and anti-wrinkle composition with excellent whitening and anti-wrinkle effects.

The invention also aims to provide the application of the whitening and anti-wrinkle composition with excellent whitening and anti-wrinkle effects in skin care products.

The purpose of the invention is realized by the following technical scheme: a whitening and anti-wrinkle composition comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 0.06-0.10% carnosine, 0.05-0.15% poloxamer physically modified vitamin C or vitamin C derivative, 0.01-0.04% citric acid, 0.005-0.01% quaternary ammonium salt inhibitor, and the balance deionized water; the pH value is 5.8-6.7. The poloxamer physically modified vitamin C or vitamin C derivative is modified by the following steps: dissolving poloxamer in a certain amount of deionized water at room temperature, and stirring to dissolve the poloxamer; then reducing the temperature to 5-15 ℃, adding vitamin C or vitamin C derivatives under vacuum condition, dispersing with ultrasonic wave, evaporating water by low temperature evaporation technology to obtain poloxamer physically modified vitamin C or vitamin C derivatives, and finally freeze drying.

Further, selecting poloxamer with polyoxyethylene molecular weight ratio of more than 30%; the weight percentage of poloxamer and vitamin C or vitamin C derivatives is 35-45: 55-65.

Further, the vitamin C derivative is selected from one or more of magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside and ascorbyl palmitate.

Further, the quaternary ammonium salt inhibitor is selected from quaternary ammonium salt-73.

Furthermore, the whitening anti-wrinkle composition also contains one or the combination of more than two of a humectant, a thickening agent, an emulsifier, a solubilizer and a preservative.

Further, the humectant is selected from one or a combination of more than two of 1, 3-butanediol, sodium stearyl alcohol sulfate, glyceryl polyether-26, glyceryl polyacrylate, glyceryl polymethacrylate, sodium hyaluronate, sodium PCA and trehalose; the weight percentage of the humectant is 0.1-2.5%; preferably, the humectant accounts for 0.5 to 1.5 weight percent.

Further, the thickening agent is selected from one or more of xanthan gum, carbomer and polyacrylic acid; the weight percentage of the thickening agent is 0.5% -4%; preferably, the weight percentage of the thickening agent is 1% -2%.

Further, the emulsifier is selected from one or more of cetearyl glucoside, cetearyl alcohol and PEG-100 stearate; the weight percentage of the emulsifier is 0.05% -1.2%; preferably, the weight percentage of the emulsifier is 0.08% -1%.

Further, the preservative is selected from one or more of phenoxyethanol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, benzoic acid, methyl paraben and ethyl paraben; the weight percentage of the preservative is 0.01-0.05%; preferably, the weight percentage of the preservative is 0.02% -0.03%.

Vitamin C is unstable in solution, and lactone rings can be hydrolyzed when the pH value is too high or too low. Further, the pH value is in the range of pH 5.8-6.7; preferably, the pH value is in the range of pH 6.0-6.5.

A preparation method of a whitening and anti-wrinkle composition comprises the steps of adding carnosine into deionized water, stirring to mix uniformly, heating to 40-65 ℃, adding other components, keeping the temperature, and stirring to disperse uniformly; controlling the temperature to be reduced to 5-15 ℃, adding poloxamer physically modified vitamin C or vitamin C derivatives, and stirring uniformly; citric acid is added and the pH value of the solution is adjusted to 5.8-6.7.

The invention also provides application of the whitening and anti-wrinkle composition in skin care products, and further the whitening and anti-wrinkle composition is used for preparing essence, emulsion and cream.

The carnosine is a dipeptide composed of β -alanine and L-histidine, and has a structure similar to a lysine-histidine structure which is easy to carry out non-enzymatic glycosylation with monosaccharides such as glucose, dermal tissue mainly comprises collagen fibers, elastic fibers and extracellular matrix which are generated by fibroblasts, the elastin and the collagen are subjected to non-enzymatic glycosylation to generate AGEs, and a cross-linked product of the collagen and the elastic protein is formed.

Vitamin C as a very strong natural free radical scavenger can directly or indirectly eliminate free radicals, reduce melanin, inhibit melanin formation, and promote epidermal melanin shedding. The vitamin C derivative has effects of resisting skin aging, promoting human fibroblast growth, imparting skin elasticity, repairing skin cell activity, promoting collagen production, and preventing skin aging. However, vitamin C is easily unstable by oxidation, and although the stability of its derivative is improved, it is more likely to lose its reducing ability or activity in a neutral or alkaline solution.

Poloxamer is a block copolymer composed of polyoxyethylene chain segments and polyoxypropylene ether chain segments in different proportions, the polyoxyethylene chain segments have hydrophilicity, the polyoxypropylene chain segments have hydrophobicity, and the whole poloxamer has hydrophilicity. The poloxamer can form a grid structure to form a cavity, the vitamin C or the vitamin C derivative is stably kept in the grid structure through the interaction of the hydrophilic chain segment and the hydrophobic chain segment, and the vitamin C or the vitamin C derivative has a stabilizing effect of isolating from the external environment, so that the vitamin C or the vitamin C derivative achieves a slow release effect.

When different antioxidants are compounded for use, the antioxidant effect of the antioxidant is superior to that of a single antioxidant, so that the antioxidant performance of the antioxidant is enhanced. According to the whitening anti-wrinkle composition, citric acid is used as a synergist, and the citric acid is compounded with vitamin C or vitamin C derivatives to improve the overall antioxidant effect of the whitening anti-wrinkle composition; meanwhile, the citric acid also serves as a pH regulator, and the content of the citric acid can be controlled to regulate the pH of the whitening anti-wrinkle composition to be within the range of 5.8-6.7.

The quaternary ammonium salt-73 has the effects of inhibiting some bacteria and melanin generation, and can inhibit melanin deposition after the wound surface of the acne is healed to a certain extent to achieve the effect of removing the acne.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the advantages and beneficial effects that:

(1) according to the invention, the vitamin C or the vitamin C derivative is physically modified, so that the active ingredients are prevented from being oxidized in use, and are stabilized in a grid structure of poloxamer and can be continuously slowly released, the antioxidant activity is kept for a long time, and the long-term stability of the active ingredients in the skin care product is enhanced.

(2) The poloxamer modified vitamin C or the vitamin C derivative is obtained by a reasonable method.

(3) The invention simultaneously adopts vitamin C or vitamin C derivatives and carnosine as main active ingredients of the whitening and anti-wrinkle skin care product, adopts citric acid as a synergist, and improves the integral antioxidant effect of the whitening and anti-wrinkle composition by compounding with the vitamin C or the vitamin C derivatives.

(4) The whitening and anti-wrinkle composition disclosed by the invention is simple in preparation process and beneficial to reducing the production cost.

Detailed Description

In order to make the objects, technical solutions and advantages of the present invention more apparent, the technical solutions of the present invention will be described in detail below. It is to be understood that the described embodiments are merely exemplary of the invention, and not restrictive of the full scope of the invention. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the examples given herein without any inventive step, are within the scope of the present invention.