阅读说明：本技术 一种白刺提取物的应用及含其的皮肤外用剂 (Application of Nitraria tangutorum bobr extracts and skin external preparation containing same ) 是由 李慧 摩根多斯桑托斯 章漳 蒋丹丹 秦优 于 2018-07-20 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明提供了一种白刺提取物的应用及含其的皮肤外用剂。该应用具体为,白刺提取物在制备抗氧化剂、黑色素合成抑制剂、弹性纤维水解抑制剂和抗皮肤衰老蛋白表达上调剂中的一种或多种的应用。白刺提取物尤其是白刺种子提取物,具有清除自由基活性、抑制酪氨酸酶活性、抑制弹性蛋白酶活性和提高人成纤维细胞中抗衰老蛋白表达的作用,能够调控真皮中胶原蛋白的合成,具有延缓衰老功效。(The invention provides application of Nitraria tangutorum bobr extracts and a skin external preparation containing the Nitraria tangutorum bobr extracts, and particularly provides application of or more of the Nitraria tangutorum bobr extracts in preparation of antioxidants, melanin synthesis inhibitors, elastic fiber hydrolysis inhibitors and anti-skin-aging protein expression up-regulating agents.)

Use of Nitraria tangutorum bobr extracts in preparing or more of antioxidant, melanin synthesis inhibitor, elastic fiber hydrolysis inhibitor and anti-skin aging protein expression up-regulator.

2. The use of claim 1, wherein the antioxidant is a free radical scavenger;

and/or the melanin synthesis inhibitor is a tyrosinase inhibitor;

and/or the inhibitor of elastane hydrolysis is an elastase inhibitor;

and/or, the skin aging resistant protein expression up-regulator is or more of BMP-1 expression up-regulator, collagen I expression up-regulator and collagen V expression up-regulator.

3. The use according to claim 1 or 2,

when the nitraria tangutorum bobr extract is used for preparing an antioxidant, the concentration of the nitraria tangutorum bobr extract in the antioxidant is 0.025-0.075 mg/mL, and preferably 0.05 mg/mL;

when the white extract is used for preparing a melanin synthesis inhibitor, the concentration of the white thorn extract in the melanin synthesis inhibitor is 0.25-0.75 mg/mL, preferably 0.5 mg/mL;

when the Nitraria tangutorum bobr extract is used for preparing the elastic fiber hydrolysis inhibitor, the concentration of the Nitraria tangutorum bobr extract in the elastic fiber hydrolysis inhibitor is 0.5-1.5 mg/mL, preferably 1 mg/mL;

when the nitraria tangutorum bobr extract is used for preparing the skin aging resistance protein expression up-regulator, the concentration of the nitraria tangutorum bobr extract in the skin aging resistance protein expression up-regulator is 0.05-1 mg/mL; preferably: when the anti-skin aging protein is BMP-1, the concentration of the nitraria tangutorum bobr extract in the up-regulator for the expression of the anti-skin aging protein is 0.05 mg/mL; when the anti-skin aging protein is collagen I or collagen V, the concentration of the nitraria tangutorum bobr extract in the anti-skin aging protein expression up-regulator is 1 mg/mL.

4. The use of claim 1, wherein the method of preparing the extract of nitraria tangutorum comprises the steps of: mixing nitraria tangutorum bobr with supercritical CO₂Mixing, and extracting to obtain extractive solution.

5. The use of claim 4, wherein the extraction site of Nitraria tangutorum bobr is Nitraria tangutorum bobr seed;

and/or, subjecting the nitraria tangutorum bobr to a pretreatment, preferably a pulverization treatment; preferably, the crushed materials are further subjected to screening treatment, and the screening mesh number is preferably 40 meshes;

and/or the pressure of the extraction is 30-40 MPa, preferably 35 MPa;

and/or the temperature of the extraction is 40-50 ℃, preferably 45 ℃;

and/or, the supercritical CO₂The flow rate of (A) is 20-30 kg/h, preferably 25 kg/h;

and/or after the extraction, the extraction time is 2-3 h, preferably 2.5 h;

and/or, the extract is further purified, preferably, the extract is chromatographed by macroporous absorption resin; the macroporous adsorption resin is preferably AB-8; the eluent for chromatography is preferably ethanol water solution, the concentration of the ethanol water solution is preferably 65-75%, more preferably 70%, and the percentage refers to volume percentage; the volume of the eluent for chromatography is preferably 4-6 times of the column volume, more preferably 5 times of the column volume; before the chromatography, impurity removal treatment is preferably carried out, and the impurity removal is preferably carried out by eluting with water, wherein the elution volume of the water is preferably 1 time of the column volume; preferably, after the water elution is used for removing impurities, 25-35% of ethanol water solution with 5 times of column volume is used for eluting and removing impurities, and the percentage refers to volume percentage.

6, kinds of external preparations for skin, characterized in that, it contains 0.001-10% of nitraria tangutorum bobr extract, the percentage is the weight percentage in the external preparations for skin;

preferably, the preparation method of the nitraria tangutorum bobr extract comprises the following steps: mixing nitraria tangutorum bobr with supercritical CO₂Mixing, and extracting to obtain extractive solution.

7. The external preparation for skin as claimed in claim 6, wherein the extraction site of the Nitraria tangutorum bobr is a Nitraria tangutorum bobr seed;

and/or, subjecting the nitraria tangutorum bobr to a pretreatment, preferably a pulverization treatment; preferably, the crushed materials are further subjected to screening treatment, and the screening mesh number is preferably 40 meshes;

and/or the pressure of the extraction is 30-40 MPa, preferably 35 MPa;

and/or the temperature of the extraction is 40-50 ℃, preferably 45 ℃;

and/or, the supercritical CO₂The flow rate of (A) is 20-30 kg/h, preferably 25 kg/h;

and/or after the extraction, the extraction time is 2-3 h, preferably 2.5 h;

and/or, the extract is further purified, preferably, the extract is chromatographed by macroporous absorption resin; the macroporous adsorption resin is preferably AB-8; the eluent for chromatography is preferably ethanol water solution, the concentration of the ethanol water solution is preferably 65-75%, more preferably 70%, and the percentage refers to volume percentage; the volume of the eluent for chromatography is preferably 4-6 times of the column volume, more preferably 5 times of the column volume; before the chromatography, impurity removal treatment is preferably carried out, and the impurity removal is preferably carried out by eluting with water, wherein the elution volume of the water is preferably 1 time of the column volume; preferably, after the water elution is used for removing impurities, 25-35% of ethanol water solution with 5 times of column volume is used for eluting and removing impurities, and the percentage refers to volume percentage.

8. The skin external preparation according to claim 6 or 7, wherein the content of the Nitraria tangutorum bobr extract is 0.0025 to 0.15%, preferably 0.005%, 0.05% or 0.1%, by weight in the skin external preparation;

when the nitraria tangutorum bobr extract is used as an antioxidant in the skin external preparation, the content of the nitraria tangutorum bobr extract is preferably 0.0025 to 0.0075 percent, more preferably 0.005 percent, and the percent refers to the weight percent in the skin external preparation;

when the Nitraria tangutorum bobr extract is used as a melanin synthesis inhibitor in the skin external preparation, the content of the Nitraria tangutorum bobr extract is preferably 0.025 to 0.075%, more preferably 0.05%, and the percentage refers to the weight percentage in the skin external preparation;

when the Nitraria tangutorum bobr extract is used as a skin elastic fiber hydrolysis inhibitor in the skin external preparation, the content of the Nitraria tangutorum bobr extract is preferably 0.05 to 0.15%, more preferably 0.1%, and the percentage refers to the weight percentage in the skin external preparation;

when the Nitraria tangutorum bobr extract is used as an up-regulator of the expression of anti-skin aging proteins in the external preparation for skin, the content of the Nitraria tangutorum bobr extract is preferably 0.005 to 0.1%, for example 0.005% or 0.1%, the percentage referring to the weight percentage in the external preparation for skin; more preferably, when the anti-skin aging protein is BMP-1, the content of the Nitraria tangutorum bobr extract is 0.005%, and the percentage refers to the weight percentage in the external preparation for skin; when the anti-skin aging protein is collagen I or collagen V, the content of the nitraria tangutorum bobr extract is 0.1%, and the percentage refers to the weight percentage in the skin external preparation.

9. The external preparation for skin as claimed in claim 6 or 7, further comprising kinds of other active ingredients, preferably moisture-retaining active ingredient, antioxidant active ingredient, oil-controlling active ingredient, whitening active ingredient and anti-aging active ingredient;

and/or, the skin external agent further comprises a medium or a matrix excipient, wherein the excipient is preferably in the form of a water phase, an oil phase, a gel, a wax-in-water type emulsion, an oil-in-water type emulsion or a water-in-oil type emulsion.

And/or, the skin external agent further comprises or more of a preservative, a fragrance, a hydrophilic active agent and a lipophilic active agent;

and/or, the skin external agent further comprises a particulate phase, wherein the particulate phase is or more of pigments, pearling agents and fillers.

10. The external preparation for skin as claimed in claim 9,

when the external skin preparation is a toning lotion, the external skin preparation comprises, by weight, 5% of glycerin, 3-6% of a polyol A, 1% of betaine, 0.5% of panthenol, 0.05-0.1% of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 0. 320.5% of polyethylene glycol, 0.15-0.2% of a surfactant A, 0.4-0.45% of a preservative A, 0-0.15% of xanthan gum, 0.03% of a perfume and 0.001-10% of Nitraria tangutorum bobr extract, and the balance being 100% by weight with deionized water, wherein the polyol A is or more of butylene glycol, 1, 2-pentanediol and dipropylene glycol, the surfactant A is or more of polysorbate-20 and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, the preservative A is methylparaben and/or phenoxyethanol, the Nitraria tangutorum bobr extract is preferably a Nitraria tangutorum bobr seed extract, and the content of the Nitraria tangutorum bobr seed extract is preferably 0.0025-0.15%, more preferably 0.005-0.005% by weight, and the external skin preparation is preferably 0.1-1% by weight;

when the external skin preparation is essence, the external skin preparation comprises, by weight, 5% of glycerin, 3-6% of a polyol B, 1% of panthenol, 0.1% of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 0.1% of allantoin, 0.05-3.6% of a surfactant B, 0.25-0.45% of a preservative B, 0.2-0.4% of xanthan gum, 0.05% of an acrylic resin Pemulen TR-20.3% of a perfume, and 0.001-10% of the Nitraria tangutorum bobr extract, and the balance being supplemented to 100% with deionized water, wherein the polyol B is butylene glycol and/or 1, 3-propylene glycol, the surfactant B is polyglycerol-2 oleate and/or polyglycerol-10 oleate, the preservative B is or more of propylparaben, methylparaben and phenoxyethanol, the Nitraria tangutorum bobr extract is preferably Nitraria tangutorum bobr seed extract, and the content of the Nitraria tangutorum bobr seed extract is preferably 0.0025-0.15%, more preferably 0.005-0.1% by weight of the external skin preparation;

when the skin external agent is emulsion, the skin external agent comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 5% of glycerol, 5% of 1, 3-propylene glycol, 1% of panthenol, 0.5% of tocopherol acetate, 2% of polydimethylsiloxane, 1652% of emulsifier A, 2-3% of oil C, 3% of isopropyl isostearate, 0.5% of cetostearyl alcohol, 0.3% of preservative C, 0.5% of xanthan gum and 0.1% of EDTA disodium; the skin external agent also comprises triethanolamine, and the content of the triethanolamine is based on adjusting the pH value of the skin external agent to 5.5-7; 0.001% -10% of nitraria tangutorum bobr extract; the rest is supplemented to 100 percent by deionized water; the oil C is mineral oil and/or isohexadecane; the preservative C is methyl hydroxybenzoate and/or propyl hydroxybenzoate; the Nitraria tangutorum bobr extract is preferably Nitraria tangutorum bobr seed extract, the content of the Nitraria tangutorum bobr seed extract is preferably 0.0025-0.15%, more preferably 0.005-0.1%, and the percentage refers to the weight percentage in the skin external preparation;

when the external skin preparation is a cream, the external skin preparation comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 5% of glycerol, 5% of 1, 3-propylene glycol, 1% of panthenol, 0.5% of tocopherol acetate, 2% of polydimethylsiloxane, 1652% of emulsifier A, 2-8% of oil D, 3% of isopropyl isostearate, 2-3% of cetostearyl alcohol, 0.3% of preservative D, 2% of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer and 0.1% of disodium EDTA; the skin external agent also comprises triethanolamine, and the content of the triethanolamine is based on adjusting the pH value of the skin external agent to 5.5-7; 0.001% -10% of nitraria tangutorum bobr extract; the rest is supplemented to 100 percent by deionized water; wherein the oil D is mineral oil and/or isohexadecane; the preservative D is methyl hydroxybenzoate and/or propyl hydroxybenzoate; the Nitraria tangutorum bobr extract is preferably a Nitraria tangutorum bobr seed extract, and the content of the Nitraria tangutorum bobr seed extract is preferably 0.0025 to 0.15%, more preferably 0.005 to 0.1%, and the percentage refers to the weight percentage in the skin external preparation.

Technical Field

The invention relates to application of nitraria tangutorum bobr extracts and a skin external preparation containing the extracts.

Background

With the continuous development and the gradual maturity of the skin care product market, more and more brands emerge, and the requirement of consumers for the efficacy of the skin care product is expected to see the practical and effective skin care effect, so the research level of the efficacy mechanism of the active substances of the skin care product needs to be improved, the explanation of the efficacy mechanism becomes deeper and deeper, the simple description of the images cannot be realized, the advanced biotechnology needs to be fused, the discovery of the skin biology is deepened continuously with the continuous development of the cytobiology technical level, and more targets and regulation mechanisms related to the functional structure of the skin are discovered.

The skin is the largest organ of the human body, covers the whole body, and mainly plays a role in protecting the body, removing sweat, sensing cold and heat, pressure and the like, so that various tissues and organs in the body are prevented from being invaded by physical, mechanical, chemical and pathogenic microorganisms.

Skin aging is classified into endogenous aging and exogenous aging. Intrinsic aging is natural aging, an aging process caused by irresistible physiological factors with increasing age, belongs to gene-level aging, and is obviously characterized by the appearance of wrinkles and the laxity of the skin. Extrinsic aging is mainly aging caused by environmental factors, such as ultraviolet radiation, high temperature, cold, environmental pollution, nutritional deficiency, diseases, bad living habits, and the like, wherein ultraviolet radiation is the most important factor, and is therefore called photoaging, which is expressed by rough and dry skin exposed parts, wrinkle deepening and thickening, irregular pigmentation, vasodilatation, epidermal keratosis, dermal elasticity fibrosis, accumulation of degradation products, and the like, and can be theoretically prevented and slowed down. The theory of free radical aging states that excessive free radicals are considered to be an important cause of skin photoaging, and because the skin is exposed to external environments such as ultraviolet rays, active oxygen generated by the ultraviolet rays and active oxygen in other external environments generate various free radicals in the skin, so that the skin is damaged by oxidative stress, and finally, the skin is aged.

in general, dermal aging is manifested by a decrease in thickness, a decrease in synthesis and degradation of collagen and elastin, an increase in degradation of catabolic enzyme activity, a decrease in dermal thickness of 20-80% in the aging process, and a gradual degradation of tissues and functions, collagen is protein having the highest content in the human body, which imparts toughness, elasticity, water-proofing function, etc., and is an important raw material for maintaining the morphology and structure of the skin and tissue organs and repairing each damaged tissue, or is a main component of extracellular matrix.

BMP-1 (bone morphogenetic protein-1), which is the major protease in the assembly of extracellular matrix molecules, is involved in the process and mainly functions to cleave peptide chains from proteins in the extracellular matrix (ECM), and to modify precursors of various biomolecules into biologically functional structural proteins and active enzymes, including various matrix molecules such as procollagen types I, III, V, and VII, Lipoxygenase (LOX), leucine-rich proteoglycan (SLRP), etc. BMP-1 simply functionalizes collagen to ensure that it is modified in an ideal manner during biosynthesis to form the correct protein conformation.

Collagen is the gold standard in various indexes for resisting skin aging, but the efficacy and mechanism of most products on the cosmetic market are only about how to increase the collagen content (such as promoting generation, supplying and protecting). Recent studies have shown that the three-dimensional conformation and structure of collagen also have a significant effect on skin gloss. For the skin, collagen is a light propagation channel, and collagen fiber-mediated light scattering plays an important role in light propagation penetration inside the dermis. If the skin has high collagen content and normal and orderly arrangement structure, light can be directly projected into the skin, and the appearance of the skin has transparent luster; if the collagen is less, the structure is abnormal, and the arrangement is disordered, the diffuse reflection of the light path (the scattering effect of the collagen beam) is formed, so that the appearance is dark, yellow and matt.

Photoaging caused by UV exposure causes increased activity of skin elastase. Elastase is distributed in various tissues and cells, and the increase of elastase activity can cause the hydrolysis of skin elastic fibers, thereby accelerating the decomposition of collagen and elastin in dermis, leading the skin to lose elasticity, and causing skin aging phenomena such as wrinkles and the like.

The process of pigmentation is complex processes, mainly due to biochemical reactions within melanocytes, i.e. tyrosine, under the action of tyrosinase as a catalyst, produces dopaquinone, which in turn, under enzymatic or non-enzymatic oxidation, forms melanin, wherein the key is the synthesis of melanin, which is controlled by tyrosinase.

Therefore, the research on how to improve the anti-aging capability of the skin has important significance on delaying skin aging.

Extracts from natural plant sources are increasingly used in the field of skin care due to their long history of use, excellent multiple efficacy.

The Nitraria tangutorum Bobr is a plant of Nitraria genus of Zygophyllaceae family, also called jujube, fatness, cherry desert and tangut, and is mainly distributed in northern Shaanxi, western inner Mongolia, Ningxia, Gansu river west, Qinghai, Xinjiang and northeast West Tibetan, lake sand, river terrace, mountain plains and sandy clay lands which are born in desert and semi-desert, so long-term adaptation and evolution to severe habitat makes Nitraria tangutorum have biological characteristics of drought resistance, high temperature resistance, salt and alkali resistance, barren resistance, sand burying resistance, severe cold resistance and the like, and strong stress resistance, and is relatively rare in nature, Nitraria tangutorum has efficacies of spleen and stomach strengthening, digestion assistance, tranquilization, VE (vitamin E), vitamin E (vitamin E) release, lactation promotion, livestock fattening and the like, and further has the highest protective effect on the content of flavonoids of fatty acid, the highest flavonoids, the content of the Nitraria tangram is 10-70% and the highest total flavonoids and the like, and the content of the flavonoids is more than that of the fatty acid, the Nitraria tangram has the highest protective effect on the fatty acid, the highest content of the Nitraria tangram, the fatty acid and the highest fatty acid.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention provides application of nitraria tangutorum bobr extracts and a skin external preparation containing the nitraria tangutorum bobr extracts, aiming at solving the technical problem that active substances capable of improving the antioxidant and anti-aging capability of skin are lacked in the prior art.

The inventor discovers through a large amount of researches that: 1) the Nitraria tangutorum bobr extract has free radical scavenging effect; 2) the Nitraria tangutorum bobr extract has tyrosinase activity inhibiting effect; 3) the Nitraria tangutorum bobr extract has the effects of inhibiting the activity of elastase, improving the expression of anti-aging protein in human fibroblasts, regulating and controlling the synthesis of collagen in dermis, and is suitable for cosmetics with the effect of delaying aging.

The invention mainly solves the technical problems by the following technical means:

the invention provides application of nitraria tangutorum bobr extracts in preparing or more of antioxidants, melanin synthesis inhibitors, elastic fiber hydrolysis inhibitors and skin aging protein expression up-regulating agents.

In the present invention, the antioxidant may be a substance conventional in the art as , which helps to trap and neutralize free radicals, such as a free radical scavenger.

In the present invention, the melanin synthesis inhibitor may be a substance that inhibits melanin synthesis, such as a tyrosinase inhibitor, which is conventional in the art.

In the present invention, the elastic fiber hydrolysis inhibitor may be a substance that inhibits the hydrolysis of elastic fibers, which is conventional in the art, such as elastase inhibitor , wherein the hydrolysis of elastic fibers in the skin accelerates the decomposition of collagen and elastin in the dermis, thus causing the skin to lose elasticity and wrinkles.

In the present invention, the anti-skin aging protein may be a protein that is conventional in the art and is associated with skin aging, such as collagen and elastin.

In the present invention, the skin aging-resistant protein expression up-regulator may be any substance conventionally used in the art to affect the expression of skin aging-related proteins, such as or more of a BMP-1 (bone morphogenetic protein-1) expression up-regulator, a collagen I expression up-regulator and a collagen V expression up-regulator.

It is well known to those skilled in the art that BMP-1 can be processed to modify procollagen types I, III, V and VII to functionalize the collagen.

In the present invention, the concentration of the Nitraria tangutorum bobr extract in the antioxidant is preferably 0.025-0.075 mg/mL, and more preferably 0.05 mg/mL.

In the present invention, the concentration of the nitraria tangutorum bobr extract in the melanin synthesis inhibitor is preferably 0.25 to 0.75mg/mL, and more preferably 0.5 mg/mL.

In the present invention, the concentration of the Nitraria tangutorum bobr extract in the elastic fiber hydrolysis inhibitor is preferably 0.5 to 1.5mg/mL, more preferably 1 mg/mL.

In the present invention, the concentration of the Nitraria tangutorum bobr extract in the up-regulator of anti-skin aging protein expression is preferably 0.05-1 mg/mL, such as 0.05mg/mL or 1 mg/mL.

When the anti-skin aging protein is BMP-1, the concentration of the Nitraria tangutorum bobr extract in the up-regulator of the expression of the anti-skin aging protein is preferably 0.05 mg/mL.

When the anti-skin aging protein is collagen I or collagen V, the concentration of the Nitraria tangutorum bobr extract in the up-regulator of the expression of the anti-skin aging protein is preferably 1 mg/mL.

In the present invention, the antioxidant, melanin synthesis inhibitor, elastic fiber hydrolysis inhibitor and anti-skin aging protein expression up-regulator are suitably used in cosmetics or skin care products.

In the present invention, the Nitraria tangutorum Bobr extract can be prepared by the conventional method in the art, such as Nitraria tangutorum Bobr, and supercritical CO₂Mixing, and extracting to obtain extractive solution.

The extraction site of Nitraria tangutorum Bobr can be any sites where Nitraria tangutorum Bobr can be used as a medicine, preferably Nitraria tangutorum Bobr seeds refers to mature seeds of Nitraria tangutorum Bobr.

When the extraction part of the nitraria tangutorum bobr is nitraria tangutorum bobr seeds, the nitraria tangutorum bobr extract is a nitraria tangutorum bobr seed extract.

Wherein, preferably, the nitraria tangutorum bobr is pretreated, such as crushed; more preferably, the crushed material is further sieved, and the mesh number of the sieved material can be 40 meshes.

Wherein, the pressure of the extraction can be the pressure conventional in the field, such as 30-40 MPa, preferably 35 MPa.

Wherein, the temperature of the extraction can be the conventional temperature in the field, such as 40-50 ℃, preferably 45 ℃.

Wherein the supercritical CO₂The flow rate of (B) may be a flow rate conventional in the art, for example, 20 to 30kg/h, preferably 25 kg/h.

Wherein, the extraction time can be the time conventional in the art, such as 2-3 h, preferably 2.5 h.

Wherein the extract can be purified according to the conventional operation in the field, for example, the extract is subjected to macroporous adsorption resin chromatography.

The macroporous adsorption resin can be AB-8.

The eluent for chromatography may be an aqueous ethanol solution, the concentration of the aqueous ethanol solution is preferably 65 to 75%, more preferably 70%, and the percentage refers to volume percentage.

The volume of the eluent for chromatography may be 4-6 times the column volume, for example 5 times the column volume.

The chromatography can be further subjected to impurity removal treatment, for example, elution with water is carried out to remove impurities, and the elution volume of the water can be 1 time of the column volume; preferably, after the water elution is performed to remove impurities, 25-35% ethanol water solution with 5 times of column volume can be performed to remove impurities, for example, 30% ethanol water solution is performed to remove impurities, and the percentage refers to volume percentage.

Wherein, preferably, the preparation method of the nitraria tangutorum bobr extract comprises the following steps: mixing Nitraria tangutorum bobr seeds with supercritical CO₂Mixing, extracting, wherein the pressure of extraction is 30-40 MPa, the temperature of extraction is 40-50 ℃, and supercritical CO is used₂The flow rate of the extraction solution is 20-30 kg/h, and the extraction time is 2-3 h to obtain an extraction solution; more preferably, the preparation method of the nitraria tangutorum bobr extract comprises the following steps: mixing Nitraria tangutorum bobr seeds with supercritical CO₂Mixing, extracting at 35MPa and 45 deg.C, and supercritical CO₂The flow rate of the extraction is 25kg/h, and the extraction time is 2.5h, so as to obtain the extraction liquid.

The invention also provides application of nitraria tangutorum bobr extracts as antioxidant active ingredients, whitening active ingredients and anti-aging active ingredients in cosmetics or skin care products.

Wherein the Nitraria sibirica pall extract is as defined above.

The invention also provides skin external preparations, which contain 0.001-10% of nitraria tangutorum bobr extract, wherein the percentage refers to the weight percentage (g/100mL) in the skin external preparation.

Wherein the Nitraria sibirica pall extract is as defined above.

Wherein, the content of the nitraria tangutorum bobr extract is preferably 0.0025 to 0.15 percent, such as 0.005 percent, 0.05 percent or 0.1 percent, and the percentage refers to the weight percentage in the skin external preparation.

When the nitraria tangutorum bobr extract is used as an antioxidant in the skin external preparation, the content of the nitraria tangutorum bobr extract is preferably 0.0025 to 0.0075 percent, more preferably 0.005 percent, and the percent refers to the weight percent in the skin external preparation.

When the Nitraria tangutorum bobr extract is used as a melanin synthesis inhibitor in the skin external preparation, the content of the Nitraria tangutorum bobr extract is preferably 0.025 to 0.075%, more preferably 0.05%, and the percentage refers to the weight percentage in the skin external preparation.

When the Nitraria tangutorum bobr extract is used as a hydrolysis inhibitor of skin elastic fibers in the skin external preparation, the content of the Nitraria tangutorum bobr extract is preferably 0.05 to 0.15%, more preferably 0.1%, and the percentage refers to the weight percentage in the skin external preparation.

When the Nitraria tangutorum bobr extract is used as an up-regulator of the expression of anti-skin aging proteins in the external preparation for skin, the content of the Nitraria tangutorum bobr extract is preferably 0.005 to 0.1%, for example, 0.005% or 0.1%, by weight in the external preparation for skin.

When the anti-skin aging protein is BMP-1, the content of the Nitraria tangutorum bobr extract is preferably 0.005%, by weight, in the external preparation for skin.

When the anti-skin aging protein is collagen I or collagen V, the content of the nitraria tangutorum bobr extract is preferably 0.1%, and the percentage refers to the weight percentage in the skin external preparation.

In the present invention, the external preparation for skin may further comprise other active ingredients, preferably or more of moisturizing active ingredients, antioxidant active ingredients, oil-controlling active ingredients, whitening active ingredients and anti-aging active ingredients, in an amount conventional in the art.

The external preparation for skin may further contain a vehicle or a base excipient conventionally used in the art according to various formulations and purposes, as long as the excipient is an acceptable excipient in the cosmetic or pharmaceutical field, in accordance with the general knowledge in the art. The excipient content is the content conventional in the art.

Wherein the excipient may be in the form of a water phase, an oil phase, a gel, a wax-in-water emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil emulsion.

The skin external preparation of the present invention may further comprise step any other components conventionally used in the cosmetic field, for example, or more of preservatives, fragrances, hydrophilic active agents and lipophilic active agents.

In the present invention, the external preparation for skin may further comprise a particulate phase, and the particulate phase may be or more selected from pigments, pearling agents and fillers.

In the present invention, the form of the skin external preparation may be any suitable product form including, but not limited to, or more of aerosol type spray, cream, emulsion, solid, liquid, dispersion, foam, gel, lotion, mousse, ointment, powder, patch, pomade, hand pump type spray, stick, pack and towelette.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the external preparation for skin is a cosmetic lotion, and the external preparation for skin comprises, by weight, 5% of glycerin, 3 to 6% of a polyhydric alcohol a, 1% of betaine, 0.5% of panthenol, 0.05 to 0.1% of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 0. 320.5% of polyethylene glycol, 0.15 to 0.2% of a surfactant a, 0.4 to 0.45% of a preservative a, 0 to 0.15% of xanthan gum, 0.03% of a fragrance, and 0.001 to 10% of the nitraria tangutorum extract, and the balance to 100% of deionized water, wherein the polyhydric alcohol a is or more of butylene glycol, 1, 2-pentanediol and dipropylene glycol, the surfactant a is polysorbate-20 and/or PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, and the preservative a is methylparaben and/or phenoxyethanol.

Wherein, the nitraria tangutorum bobr extract is preferably a nitraria tangutorum bobr seed extract. The content of the Nitraria tangutorum bobr seed extract is preferably 0.0025 to 0.15%, more preferably 0.005 to 0.1%, for example 0.005%, by weight in the skin external preparation.

In a second preferred embodiment of the present invention, the external skin preparation is a serum, and comprises, by weight, 5% of glycerin, 3 to 6% of a polyol B, 1% of panthenol, 0.1% of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 0.1% of allantoin, 0.05 to 3.6% of a surfactant B, 0.25 to 0.45% of a preservative B, 0.2 to 0.4% of xanthan gum, 0.05% of an acrylic resin Pemulen TR-20.3% and 0.05% of a fragrance, 0.001 to 10% of the Nitraria tangutorum extract, and the balance of deionized water to 100%, wherein the polyol B is butylene glycol and/or 1, 3-propylene glycol, the surfactant B is polyglycerol-2 oleate and/or polyglycerol-10 oleate, and the preservative B is or more of propylparaben, methylparaben and phenoxyethanol.

According to the common knowledge in the field, the acrylic resin Pemulen TR-2 is acrylic acid (ester)/C_10-30Alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymers, produced by nuch chemical company, usa.

The xanthan gum is a saccharide, produced by fermentation of xanthomonas sp, according to common knowledge in the art, as extracellular microbial polysaccharides.

Wherein, the nitraria tangutorum bobr extract is preferably a nitraria tangutorum bobr seed extract. The content of the nitraria tangutorum bobr seed extract is preferably 0.0025 to 0.15%, more preferably 0.005 to 0.1%, for example 0.1%, and the percentage refers to the weight percentage in the skin external preparation.

In a third preferred embodiment of the present invention, the external skin preparation is an emulsion, and the external skin preparation comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 5% of glycerol, 5% of 1, 3-propylene glycol, 1% of panthenol, 0.5% of tocopherol acetate, 2% of polydimethylsiloxane, 1652% of emulsifier A, 2-3% of oil C, 3% of isopropyl isostearate, 0.5% of cetostearyl alcohol, 0.3% of preservative C, 0.5% of xanthan gum and 0.1% of EDTA disodium; the skin external agent also comprises triethanolamine, and the content of the triethanolamine is based on adjusting the pH value of the skin external agent to 5.5-7; 0.001% -10% of nitraria tangutorum bobr extract; the rest is supplemented to 100 percent by deionized water; the oil C is mineral oil and/or isohexadecane; the preservative C is methyl hydroxybenzoate and/or propyl hydroxybenzoate.

The emulsifier A165 is a commercially available product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, as is common in the art. The hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer is a thickening agent which is produced by Sabic corporation and has the mark of Sepinov EMT 10.

Wherein, the nitraria tangutorum bobr extract is preferably a nitraria tangutorum bobr seed extract. The content of the Nitraria tangutorum bobr seed extract is preferably 0.0025 to 0.15%, more preferably 0.005 to 0.1%, for example 0.005%, by weight in the skin external preparation.

In a fourth preferred embodiment of the present invention, the external preparation for skin is a cream, and the external preparation for skin comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 5% of glycerol, 5% of 1, 3-propylene glycol, 1% of panthenol, 0.5% of tocopherol acetate, 2% of polydimethylsiloxane, 1652% of emulsifier A, 2-8% of oil D, 3% of isopropyl isostearate, 2-3% of cetostearyl alcohol, 0.3% of preservative D, 2% of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer and 0.1% of disodium EDTA; the skin external agent also comprises triethanolamine, and the content of the triethanolamine is based on adjusting the pH value of the skin external agent to 5.5-7; 0.001% -10% of nitraria tangutorum bobr extract; the rest is supplemented to 100 percent by deionized water; wherein the oil D is mineral oil and/or isohexadecane; the preservative D is methyl hydroxybenzoate and/or propyl hydroxybenzoate.

Wherein, the nitraria tangutorum bobr extract is preferably a nitraria tangutorum bobr seed extract. The content of the nitraria tangutorum bobr seed extract is preferably 0.0025 to 0.15%, more preferably 0.005 to 0.1%, for example 0.1%, and the percentage refers to the weight percentage in the skin external preparation.

On the basis of the common knowledge in the field, the above preferred conditions can be combined randomly to obtain the preferred embodiments of the invention.

The reagents and starting materials used in the present invention are commercially available.

The positive progress effects of the invention are as follows:

(1) the application finds that the Nitraria tangutorum bobr extract, particularly the Nitraria tangutorum bobr seed extract, has the effects of scavenging free radicals, inhibiting tyrosinase activity, inhibiting elastase activity, improving the expression of anti-aging proteins in human fibroblasts, regulating and controlling the synthesis of collagen in dermis, and has the effect of delaying aging, particularly the effects of scavenging free radicals and inhibiting elastase. Compared with a blank control, the generation rates of collagen I, collagen V and BMP1 in the fibroblasts are 136%, 115% and 151% respectively, and the method has important significance for developing skin care products or cosmetics related to anti-aging in the future.

(2) The application discovers for the first time that the nitraria tangutorum bobr extract, particularly the nitraria tangutorum bobr seed extract, can promote the generation of bone morphogenetic protein-1 (BMP-1), and has important significance for the research of the action mechanism of the nitraria tangutorum bobr extract and the active ingredients acting on the BMP-1 target.

Detailed Description

The invention is further illustrated by the following examples , but is not intended to be limited thereby within the scope of the examples.