阅读说明：本技术 丝兔羊毛涤纶混纺面料的制造方法 (Manufacturing method of silk rabbit wool polyester blended fabric ) 是由 赵军伟 田兵 于 2019-10-22 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明涉及一种丝兔羊毛涤纶混纺面料的制造方法,该方法是以重量百分数58-62％长羊毛、25-29％涤纶、8-12％未脱胶的桑蚕丝生丝和2-4％兔绒为原料；将长羊毛精梳纺纱成羊毛条,将兔绒、桑蚕丝和涤纶用棉纺工艺制成混合条,所述混合条经过脱胶工序使混合条中桑蚕丝表面的丝胶蛋白溶解并渗入混合条,脱胶后的混合条经过变性处理工序使渗入混合条中的丝胶蛋白发生不可逆变性,黏住兔绒；然后将混合条和羊毛条进行配条、混并,依次经粗纱、细纱、络筒、并线、倍捻、织造、染整制成丝兔羊毛涤纶混纺面料。得到的面料具有成本低、保暖性能强、手感柔软光滑、绒感丰富、不易起球、不易脱毛的优点。(The invention relates to a manufacturing method of silk rabbit wool polyester blended fabric, which takes 58-62% of long wool, 25-29% of polyester, 8-12% of unglued mulberry silk raw silk and 2-4% of rabbit wool as raw materials in percentage by weight; combing and spinning long wool into wool tops, manufacturing rabbit wool, mulberry silk and terylene into a mixed strip by a cotton spinning process, dissolving sericin on the surface of the mulberry silk in the mixed strip by the mixed strip through a degumming process, and enabling the sericin permeated into the mixed strip to generate irreversible denaturation through the degummed mixed strip to adhere the rabbit wool; then preparing the mixed sliver and wool tops, mixing, and sequentially carrying out roving, spinning, spooling, doubling, double twisting, weaving, dyeing and finishing to prepare the rabbit-wool-polyester blended fabric. The obtained fabric has the advantages of low cost, strong heat preservation performance, soft and smooth hand feeling, rich velvet feeling, difficult pilling and difficult depilation.)

1. A manufacturing method of a silk rabbit wool polyester blended fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps: the manufacturing method takes 58-62% of long wool, 25-29% of terylene, 8-12% of unglued mulberry silk raw silk and 2-4% of rabbit hair as raw materials; combing and spinning long wool into wool tops, manufacturing rabbit wool, mulberry silk and terylene into a mixed strip by a cotton spinning process, dissolving sericin on the surface of the mulberry silk in the mixed strip by the mixed strip through a degumming process, and enabling the sericin permeated into the mixed strip to generate irreversible denaturation through the degummed mixed strip to adhere the rabbit wool; then preparing the mixed sliver and wool tops, mixing, and sequentially carrying out roving, spinning, spooling, doubling, double twisting, weaving, dyeing and finishing to prepare the rabbit-wool-polyester blended fabric.

2. The method for manufacturing the silk rabbit wool polyester blended fabric according to claim 1, wherein a concentration dipping process is further included after the degumming process and before the denaturation process, and the mixed strips are dipped in a concentrated solution of the aqueous solution obtained by degumming for a certain time.

3. The manufacturing method of the silk rabbit wool polyester blended fabric according to claim 2, wherein the concentration dipping process comprises the following steps: concentrating the water solution obtained by degumming to 1/10-1/20 concentrated solution of the original volume, and soaking the degummed mixed strips in the concentrated solution for 2-5 min.

4. The method for manufacturing the silk rabbit wool polyester blended fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the degumming process is to dip the mixed strips in an aqueous solution with the pH of 6-9 and the temperature of 35-40 ℃ to dissolve sericin, and the bath ratio is 1: 50-100.

5. The method for manufacturing the silk rabbit wool polyester blended fabric according to claim 4, wherein the degumming process is to dissolve the mixed strips in 0.5-1% sodium bicarbonate aqueous solution by mass percentage for 2-48 h.

6. The method for manufacturing the silk rabbit wool polyester blended fabric according to claim 4, wherein the denaturation treatment process comprises the steps of soaking the mixed strips in SDS solution at normal temperature, dehydrating, cleaning and drying after soaking.

7. The manufacturing method of the rabbit silk wool polyester blended fabric according to claim 6, wherein in the denaturation treatment process, the concentration of SDS solution in percentage by mass is 1-2%, the soaking time is 6-8min, and the bath ratio is 1: 5-8.

8. The method for manufacturing the rabbit hair-wool-polyester blended fabric according to claim 1, wherein the rabbit hair has fineness of not more than 15 μm and a length of 2-4cm, and is obtained by carding with a carding machine, the mulberry silk is short-staple raw silk with a length of 5-8cm, the polyester is short-staple with a length of 8-12cm, and the long wool is 15-30 cm.

9. The manufacturing method of the silk rabbit wool polyester blended fabric according to claim 8, wherein the manufacturing process of the mixed strips comprises the following steps: the mulberry silk, the polyester fiber and the rabbit hair are made into rolls by an opening and picking machine and made into mixed strips by a carding machine.

10. The method for manufacturing the silk rabbit wool polyester blended fabric according to claim 1, wherein the silk rabbit wool polyester blended fabric comprises 60% of long wool, 27% of polyester, 10% of mulberry silk and 3% of rabbit wool, by weight.

Technical Field

The invention relates to the field of textile fabrics, in particular to a manufacturing method of a silk rabbit wool polyester blended fabric.

Background

The high-grade fabric such as western-style clothes fabric mainly adopts wool and terylene, wherein the wool is warm-keeping, comfortable, water-repellent, not easy to generate static electricity but easy to wrinkle, the terylene is high in strength, wear-resistant, anti-wrinkle, bright in color, acid-base resistant and low in cost; the wool-polyester blended fabric has the advantages of low cost, good wool feeling, stiffness expansion and wrinkle resistance. In order to improve the warmth retention, comfort and skin-friendly property of the fabric, cashmere is often added into the fabric. The cashmere is a thin layer of fine cashmere at the root of goat coarse hair, the fine cashmere is thin and bent, the fineness is generally between 13 and 16um, the length is generally 35 to 45mm, and the scale of the cashmere outer layer is fine and smooth. However, the price of cashmere is very prohibitive for many fabric manufacturers, and in addition to the reaction sensitivity of cashmere to acid, alkali and heat, after cashmere is added into the fabric as a thermal fiber, dyeing or various treatments are relatively difficult even at a low temperature. In addition, the polyester-containing fabric is poor in air permeability and hygroscopicity and easy to absorb dust in autumn; because the polyester fibers have small cohesive force, high strength and large elongation capacity, and particularly have good bending fatigue resistance, twisting fatigue resistance and wear resistance, the polyester fibers easily slide out of the surface of the fabric, the friction part is easy to generate static fuzzing, and the static fuzzing is difficult to fall off once being fuzzed and intertwined with each other to form unpleasant spherical hair bulbs.

Rabbit down is similar to cashmere, is composed of protein, and contains various amino acids. It has many advantages, and has light, soft and smooth characteristics. The cashmere fiber has smooth surface scale, less scale, inclined strips, small opening angle, small friction coefficient and good glossiness, is a medullary cavity fiber with developed porous structure, has strong moisture absorption performance and good heat preservation effect, is comfortable and heat preservation not inferior to cashmere, has the key cost about 1/3 to 1/4 of cashmere, and is relatively easy to carry out various treatments and dyeing. However, the rabbit wool fiber is relatively straight and is not curled like cashmere, and is relatively fine, the fineness of the rabbit wool fiber is about 10.83 microns per shift, and the rabbit wool fiber is finer than cashmere and belongs to very fine animal fiber. Although the anti-pilling effect of the rabbit hair fiber is good, the rabbit hair fiber is easy to fall off from the fabric due to the shape and fineness of the rabbit hair fiber, so that rabbit hair is rarely added into the high-grade coat fabric.

Therefore, it is necessary to develop a warm-keeping wool and polyester blended fabric with high cost performance.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to provide a manufacturing method of a silk rabbit wool polyester blended fabric with high cost performance and good heat retention.

The technical problem to be solved by the invention is realized by the following technical scheme: a manufacturing method of silk rabbit wool polyester blended fabric takes 58-62% of long wool, 25-29% of polyester, 8-12% of unglued mulberry silk raw silk and 2-4% of rabbit wool as raw materials in percentage by weight; combing and spinning long wool into wool tops, manufacturing rabbit wool, mulberry silk and terylene into a mixed strip by a cotton spinning process, dissolving sericin on the surface of the mulberry silk in the mixed strip by the mixed strip through a degumming process, and enabling the sericin permeated into the mixed strip to generate irreversible denaturation through the degummed mixed strip to adhere the rabbit wool; then preparing the mixed sliver and wool tops, mixing, and sequentially carrying out roving, spinning, spooling, doubling, double twisting, weaving, dyeing and finishing to prepare the rabbit-wool-polyester blended fabric.

The surface of the mulberry silk contains water-soluble sericin macromolecules. When the sericin is contacted with proper liquid, the sericin can automatically absorb the liquid to swell and soften, and can be dissolved in the liquid after infinite swelling.

The mulberry silk, the rabbit down matched with the thermal fiber, the common polyester fiber are blended, and then the blended yarn is mixed with wool tops for spinning. The warmth retention property and the surface villus feeling of the wool-polyester blended high-grade fabric are improved by using the rabbit hair; the excellent hygroscopicity of the rabbit wool is beneficial to the rapid transmission of the static electricity on the surface of the terylene, and the electrostatic pilling of the wool-terylene blended fabric is overcome; the mulberry silk is utilized to increase the smoothness of the wool-polyester fabric. More importantly, the surface sericin of the mulberry silk can be swelled and dissolved, the dissolved sericin part can be adsorbed on the polyester surface around the mulberry silk, and also can be adsorbed on the rabbit hair surface which is similar to the mulberry silk in composition and structure and is also animal amino acid protein fiber, and then the silk fibroin generates irreversible denaturation to ensure that the sericin becomes difficult to dissolve in water, thereby sticking the rabbit hair, overcoming the defect that the rabbit hair is easy to moult, simultaneously improving the hygroscopicity of the polyester fiber and further overcoming the electrostatic pilling of the wool-polyester blended fabric. After the mixed sliver and the wool tops are mixed and spun, the fluff feeling of the rabbit wool can be basically recovered to the state before degumming treatment by the friction action of the spun yarn, so that the fabric is not dry and hard, and is soft and has strong fluff feeling.

In order to promote the sericin protein formed by degumming to better permeate into the surfaces of the rabbit wool and the polyester fiber in the mixed strip, preferably, the mixed strip further comprises a concentration and impregnation process after the degumming process and before the denaturation process, and the mixed strip is impregnated in a concentrated solution of an aqueous solution obtained by degumming for a certain time. More preferably, the concentration and impregnation step is: concentrating the water solution obtained by degumming to 1/10-1/20 concentrated solution of the original volume, and soaking the degummed mixed strips in the concentrated solution for 2-5 min.

In order to avoid sericin denaturation and rabbit hair shrinkage deformation in the degumming process, preferably, the degumming procedure is to dip the mixed strip in an aqueous solution with the pH of 6-9 and the temperature of 35-40 ℃ to dissolve sericin, wherein the bath ratio is 1: 50-100. The aqueous solution may be adjusted to pH 6-9 by adding sodium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, citric acid, etc. The pH range is moderate in acidity and alkalinity, mild in condition and free of influence on the performances of other components of the mixed strip except degumming. Further preferably, the degumming procedure is to dissolve the mixed strips in 0.5 to 1 mass percent concentration sodium bicarbonate aqueous solution for 2 to 48 hours.

Sericin can be denatured by addition of salts, acids, heat induction, or the like, but these methods also change the properties of silk, particularly rabbit down, and deform it. In order to inhibit the deformation of the yarn and keep the fiber with good performance and smooth fabric, the modification treatment process preferably comprises the steps of soaking the mixed strips in a Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate (SDS) solution at normal temperature, dehydrating, cleaning and drying after soaking. Further preferably, in the denaturation treatment, the concentration of the SDS solution is 1 to 2% by mass, the soaking time is 6 to 8min, and the bath ratio is 1: 5-8. By adding SDS, sericin contained in the mixed strips is rapidly subjected to irreversible denaturation and is precipitated on the surface of the fiber, so that rabbit hair is fixed, and the moisture absorption of the terylene is improved. As sericin in the mixed strips is subjected to irreversible denaturation, rabbit hair is not easy to fall off in the post-treatment, washing, use and other processes of the fabric. The denaturation treatment is non-toxic, and the method is simple and easy to operate.

Preferably, the rabbit wool has fineness of no more than 15 μm and length of 2-4cm, and is obtained by carding with a carding machine, the mulberry silk is short-fiber raw silk with length of 5-8cm, the terylene is short fiber with length of 8-12cm, and the long wool is 15-30 cm. Here, the length of mulberry silk is greater than the length of rabbit hair, can make rabbit hair be better by the sticking, overcomes the rabbit hair phenomenon that falls in the surface fabric more effectively. The rabbit wool with the matched length can be well adhered to the surface of the mulberry silk, the rabbit wool is less likely to be drawn and not easy to be peeled off when the rabbit wool is blended, roving and spun yarn, and on the contrary, the rabbit wool is more likely to be rubbed, so that the wool feeling of the rabbit wool is recovered.

Preferably, the manufacturing process of the mixing bar is as follows: the mulberry silk, the polyester fiber and the rabbit hair are made into rolls by an opening and picking machine and made into mixed strips by a carding machine.

Preferably, the silk rabbit wool and polyester blended fabric comprises 60% of long wool, 27% of polyester, 10% of mulberry silk and 3% of rabbit wool, which are all in percentage by weight.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the advantages and beneficial effects that: blending mulberry silk, rabbit wool and terylene to obtain mixed strips, mixing the mixed strips with wool strips and spinning, and treating the mixed strips by matching raw materials and adding a special process to overcome the defect of hair falling caused by adding the rabbit wool and recover the rabbit wool feeling by spinning friction; due to the addition of the rabbit hair, the wool polyester fabric has good suede feeling and heat retention, and the static pilling problem of the wool polyester fabric can be solved through the process, and the mulberry silk serving as a base for the attachment of the rabbit hair can improve the smoothness and luster of the fabric; so that the fabric has the effect that one plus one is larger than two. The process adopted does not damage delicate mulberry silk, rabbit down or wool, and the obtained fabric has the advantages of low cost, strong heat retention, soft and smooth hand feeling, rich velvet feeling, difficult pilling and unhairing and has extremely good market application value.

Detailed Description

The following describes the present invention with reference to examples. The following examples are only for illustrating the technical solutions of the present invention more clearly, and the protection scope of the present invention is not limited thereby.