阅读说明：本技术 含有鱼卵提取物的化妆用或皮肤病学制剂 (Cosmetic or dermatological preparation containing roe extract ) 是由 丹尼尔·斯坦格尔 伯恩哈德·杜德乐 于 2018-05-11 设计创作，主要内容包括：含有鱼卵提取物的化妆用或皮肤病学制剂,其特征在于,所述鱼卵提取物可通过如下方式获得：将鱼卵悬浮在含有油相和水相的提取混合物中,将提取混合物均质化,并提取匀浆的油相。(Cosmetic or dermatological preparation containing a roe extract, characterized in that it is obtainable by: suspending roe in an extraction mixture comprising an oil phase and an aqueous phase, homogenizing the extraction mixture, and extracting the homogenized oil phase.)

1. cosmetic or dermatological preparation containing a roe extract, characterized in that it is obtainable by:

a) suspending roe in an extraction mixture comprising an oil phase and an aqueous phase,

b) homogenizing the extraction mixture a), and

c) extracting the oil phase of homogenate b).

2. Cosmetic or dermatological formulation according to claim 1, characterized in that the roe is selected from the roe of salmon, trout and sturgeon, wherein preferably the roe of sturgeon.

3. Cosmetic or dermatological formulation according to claim 2, characterized in that roe of Acipenser albus and/or Acipenser sibirica is selected.

4. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the roe extract is produced within 24 hours after removal of the roe.

5. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oil phase contained in the extraction mixture contains caprylic/capric triglyceride, wherein the proportion of caprylic/capric triglyceride in the oil phase of the extraction mixture is preferably at least 90% by weight and particularly preferably at least 97% by weight, based on the total weight of the oil phase of the extraction mixture.

6. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oily phase contained in the extraction mixture contains at least one antioxidant.

7. The cosmetic or dermatological formulation according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the aqueous phase contained in the extraction mixture is a phosphate buffer, preferably containing 50 to 200mM phosphate and 0.1 to 0.3% by weight EDTA, based on the total weight of the aqueous phase of the extraction mixture.

8. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the aqueous phase of the extraction mixture contains at least one preservative, preferably selected from the group of phenoxyethanol, phenylethyl alcohol and/or ethylhexyl glycerol.

9. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of roe to the aqueous phase of the extraction mixture is from 1:2 to 2:1, preferably from 1:1.2 to 1.2: 1.

10. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of roe to oil phase of the extraction mixture is from 1:0.2 to 1: 0.4.

11. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that for the homogenization of fish eggs a mechanical digestion method is used.

12. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to claim 12, characterized in that for homogenization of fish eggs a method of applying mechanical pressure is used.

13. The cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extraction of the oily phase from the homogenate of fish eggs is carried out by centrifugation and subsequent phase separation.

14. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight proportion of monounsaturated fatty acids in the roe extract is from 30 to 50% by weight, in particular from 35 to 45% by weight, based on the total weight of all fatty acids contained.

15. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight proportion of polyunsaturated fatty acids in the roe extract is from 30 to 40% by weight, based on the total weight of all fatty acids contained.

16. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight proportion of omega-3 fatty acids in the roe extract is between 15 and 25% by weight, based on the total weight of all fatty acids contained in the roe extract.

17. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight proportion of omega-6 fatty acids in the roe extract is from 10 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of all fatty acids contained in the roe extract.

18. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the roe extract contains at least one preservative selected from the group of phenoxyethanol, phenylethyl alcohol and ethylhexylglycerin.

19. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight proportion of triglycerides, in particular the proportion of decanoyl glycerides and octanoyl glycerides in the roe extract is from 50 to 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the roe extract.

20. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that roe extract is contained in the cosmetic or dermatological preparation in a total proportion of 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological preparation.

21. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to any of the preceding claims, characterized by containing at least one alkylamidothiazole.

22. Cosmetic use of a cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to any one of claims 1 to 21,

a) for increasing the expression of laminin, and/or

b) For obtaining extensibility and/or skin elasticity of human skin.

23. A method for producing a fish egg extract,

a) suspending roe in an extraction mixture comprising an oil phase and an aqueous phase,

b) homogenizing the suspension mixture a), and

c) extracting the oil phase of homogenate b).

Technical Field

The invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing fish egg extracts for enhancing the expression of laminin. Furthermore, the subject of the present invention is a process for providing a fish egg extract, wherein fish eggs are suspended in an extraction mixture comprising an oil phase and an aqueous phase, the resulting suspension is homogenized, and the homogenized oil phase is extracted to obtain a fish egg extract according to the present invention.

Background

Looks beautiful and attractive is a need for many people. Generally, clean, wrinkle-free skin is considered the standard of beauty. To meet this demand, most diversified cosmetics are used for daily care of human skin.

The outermost layer of human skin, called the epidermis, is the only keratinized squamous epithelium of the human body. Basically, this epithelium fulfills various protective functions: for example, it serves in particular for mechanical protection, which is produced primarily by the multilayer structure. In this case, the epidermis of the skin must have sufficient tear resistance and must not separate from the connective tissue underneath.

Between the epithelium and connective tissue there is a basement membrane, the uppermost layer of which is called the basal layer. The base layer has a thickness of about 20nm and the entire base film has a thickness of about 1-2 μm. The basal layer is immediately adjacent to the epithelial cells and is further subdivided into a sparse layer and a dense layer according to their electron permeability. The sparse layer and the dense layer lying therebelow are mainly composed of type IV collagen and laminin, which is cross-linked with the extracellular domain of integrins of epithelial cell membranes as well as nestin (nestin) and proteoglycans such as perlecan. Furthermore, other proteins may be associated with the mentioned matrix components.

The laminin contained is a collagen-like glycoprotein having a molecular weight in the range of 400 to 900 kDa. Typically, laminins are composed of 3 structural components called α, β, and γ chains. The molecule has 4 arms, of which 3 arms can bind to other laminin molecules. The remaining longer arm is bound to the cell surface.

As can be seen from the above description, the adhesion of laminin to tissue, the so-called cell adhesion, is of great importance. Furthermore, laminins not only help in cell fixation and differentiation, but also help in maintaining tissue phenotype. However, if an abnormal formation of laminin occurs, it may, for example, result in some forms of muscular dystrophy. It may be disadvantageous from a cosmetic point of view that an insufficient amount of laminin in the tissue results in the skin appearing less tight.

It is therefore desirable to provide cosmetic actives capable of promoting laminin expression, for example from keratinocytes, which are the predominant cell type present in human epidermis. In this way, the cause of age-related wrinkle formation can be reduced.

Document WO 2008020329a2 describes the use of a composition comprising a differentiable cell, an egg cell extract or a differentiable cell extract for preventing damage and dysfunction of cells or tissues and promoting cell function. In addition, these compositions promote the appearance, viability and health of cells and tissues. In particular, it is described in example 11 on page 89 that extracts of salmon roe can promote wound healing. No specific role in laminin expression is described.

Document WO 2009136291 a2 also discloses a process for the production of roe extracts. The description of these methods is the same as that in WO 2008020329A 2. The production of extracts from salmon roe and trout roe is described in example 13. In example 14, it was shown that the obtained extracts of salmon roe and trout roe can increase collagen production. The production of laminin is not discussed. As can be seen from table 13, the composition of the extracts of the same fish species varied depending on the extraction method. For example, the contained DNA concentration and protein concentration vary significantly. It can therefore be assumed that different effects can be achieved when using the extract, depending on the extraction method.

Furthermore, the same production method as in WO 2008020329A2 for fish egg extracts is disclosed on page 28 of document WO 2011138687A 2. The extraction from salmon roe described in example 5 is also based on first washing the roe. Followed by suspension and homogenization in aqueous lysis buffer.

Such an extraction method is not disclosed in the prior art documents: wherein roe is suspended in an extraction mixture consisting of an oil phase and an aqueous phase and homogenized. None of the above documents therefore leads to the subject-matter of the present invention for a person skilled in the art.

Disclosure of Invention

It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide cosmetic or dermatological preparations or cosmetic actives which promote the formation of laminin. In particular, the formation of laminin-5 should be promoted, which forms a network with collagen, thereby affecting the extensibility and elasticity of the skin.

Surprisingly, it has now been found that these tasks can be solved according to the invention.

The subject of the present invention is a cosmetic or dermatological preparation containing a fish egg extract, characterized in that the fish egg extract is obtainable by:

a) suspending roe in an extraction mixture comprising an oil phase and an aqueous phase,

b) homogenizing the suspension mixture a), and

c) extracting the oil phase of homogenate b).

The oil phase obtained in item c) constitutes the fish egg extract according to the invention.

The invention also relates to a method for producing a fish egg extract, characterized in that

a) Suspending roe in an extraction mixture comprising an oil phase and an aqueous phase,

b) homogenizing the suspension mixture a), and

c) extracting the oil phase of homogenate b).

It is also true here that the oil phase obtained in item c) constitutes the fish egg extract according to the invention.

The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the roe extract produced according to the method of the invention and/or the cosmetic use of the cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to the invention,

a) for increasing the expression of laminin, and/or

b) For obtaining extensibility and/or skin elasticity of human skin.

Unless otherwise indicated, all weight percentages (wt%) listed below are based on the total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological formulation.

The term "free" in the sense of the present disclosure means that the proportion of corresponding substances is less than 0.05% by weight. Thereby ensuring that the entrainment or impurities with these substances are not "free" according to the invention.

Unless otherwise indicated, all experiments and process steps were performed under standard conditions. The term "standard conditions" refers to 20 ℃, 1013hPa and a relative air humidity of 50%.

If the term "skin" is used below, it refers only to human skin.

According to the invention, the fish egg extract according to the invention is used for increasing the expression of laminin, in particular laminin-5. Thus, the application of the fish egg extract according to the invention to the skin results in the production of more laminin, in particular laminin-5, with the result that, for example, the reduction in skin elasticity in human skin that occurs with increasing age can be reduced. As a result, the cosmetic use of the roe extract according to the invention or of the cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to the invention leads to a reduction in the formation of undesirable skin wrinkles.

According to the invention, the eggs of different fish species can be used for producing the fish egg extract according to the invention. Preferred roe is selected from roe of salmon, trout and sturgeon. Particularly advantageous results are obtained in the case of using sturgeon roe. Therefore, sturgeon eggs are preferably used. A large number of different sturgeon species are known, the eggs of which can in principle be used according to the invention in the production process according to the invention. Particularly known are baerian sturgeons, shortnosed sturgeons, changjiang sturgeons, lake sturgeons, russian sturgeons (also known as Waxdick), green sturgeons, kubaye sturgeons, asian sturgeons, naugh sturgeons, atlantic sturgeons, persian sturgeons, acipenser sturgeons, chinese sturgeons, flash sturgeons, european sturgeons, white sturgeons, kalu galuga and european daughters commonly known as beruka sturgeons. It should be noted here that many sturgeon species are at risk of extinction and therefore their use should be avoided. Most preferred according to the invention is the selection of roe of white sturgeon (Acipenser transmontanus) and/or Siberian sturgeon (Acipenser baeri). According to IUCN (international union of natural and natural resources conservation), acipenser albiflora is considered to be non-endangered.

In a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, only roe of farmed sturgeons, in particular farmed Siberian and/or white sturgeons, is used. In this embodiment it is further highly preferred that the roe is obtained in a non-lethal way from fish.

Advantageously according to the invention, the roe extract is produced within 24 hours after removal of the roe. It is also advantageous if the roe is preserved with borax after removal and for further processing into roe extracts, also for preservation.

Alternatively, the roe may be freeze dried in a cryoprotectant after removal and stored at a storage temperature of-50 to-90 ℃ for up to 12 months, although not preferred according to the invention. Preferably, the cryoprotectant consists of 1.5M 1, 2-propanediol, 0.2M sucrose and water. Damage to the egg membrane during freezing and thawing is prevented by the use of cryoprotectants. Advantageously, freeze-drying should be carried out at a rate of-1 deg.C/min up to a storage temperature of-80 deg.C. Thawing of the eggs prior to production of the roe extract should be carried out on ice until the roe has reached a temperature of 1 to 5 ℃. In this case, the production of the fish egg extract according to the present invention of fish eggs is carried out after thawing the fish eggs to 1 ℃ to 5 ℃.

To produce the fish egg extract according to the present invention, fish eggs are suspended in an extraction mixture comprising an oil phase and an aqueous phase, thereby obtaining a mixture of fish eggs, oil phase and aqueous phase. This mixture is referred to as a suspension mixture.

Advantageously according to the invention, the oily phase contained in the extraction mixture comprises at least one oil that is liquid at 20 ℃. Oils known under the INCI name caprylic/capric triglyceride have proven particularly preferred, as these components are not expected to be present in fish eggs.

It is also advantageous in the sense of the present invention for the proportion of caprylic/capric triglyceride oil in the oil phase of the extraction mixture to be at least 80% by weight, preferably at least 90% by weight, particularly preferably at least 97% by weight, based on the total weight of the oil phase of the extraction mixture.

It is furthermore advantageous if the oil phase contained in the extraction mixture contains at least one antioxidant. Preferably, tocopherol and/or BHT are used as antioxidants, wherein their total proportion in the oil phase of the extraction mixture is from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the oil phase of the extraction mixture. By using an antioxidant in the oil phase of the extraction mixture, the components of the roe are protected from oxidation during and after homogenization of the roe.

Advantageously according to the invention, the aqueous phase contained in the extraction mixture is a phosphate buffer, preferably containing 50mM to 200mM phosphate (e.g. from sodium hydrogen phosphate) and 0.1 to 0.3% by weight EDTA, based on the total weight of the aqueous phase of the extraction mixture. Furthermore, it is advantageous according to the invention that the aqueous phase of the extraction mixture according to the invention contains at least one preservative to prevent the growth of bacteria before, during and after homogenization. Preferably used preservatives are selected from the group of phenoxyethanol, phenylethyl alcohol and/or ethylhexyl glycerol. Advantageously according to the invention, the total proportion of preservatives, in particular the total proportion of preservatives designated as preferred, in the aqueous phase of the extraction mixture is from 0.5 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the aqueous phase of the extraction mixture.

After suspending the fish eggs in the oil phase and the aqueous phase of the extraction mixture, a mixture of these three components is obtained, which is referred to as suspension mixture according to the invention. In this case, it is advantageous according to the invention if the weight ratio of fish eggs to the aqueous phase of the suspension mixture is from 1:2 to 2:1, preferably from 1:1.2 to 1.2: 1. It is furthermore advantageous if the weight ratio of fish eggs to the oil phase of the suspension mixture is from 1:0.2 to 1: 0.4.

According to the invention, the homogenization of the roe is carried out in the above-mentioned suspension mixture consisting of the roe itself, an oil phase and an aqueous phase.

According to the invention, the term "homogenization" is understood to mean a process in which: where the cell is disrupted to obtain its contents-organelles, proteins, DNA, RNA or other biomolecules.

In general, mechanical and non-mechanical digestion methods can be used for homogenization. According to the invention, mechanical digestion methods are preferred. These include, inter alia, the dunes method of destroying cells by shear forces; sonication, in which cells are disrupted by cavitation forces; or digestion with the application of mechanical pressure, for example where the sample is pressed under pressure through a narrow valve (Manton-Gaulin homogenizer). Since the possibility of obtaining different homogenates in connection with the homogenization process cannot be completely ruled out, it is particularly preferred according to the invention to apply the homogenization process with the application of mechanical pressure, wherein the process using a Manton-Gaulin homogenizer or a French press is most preferred.

Advantageously according to the invention, the extraction of the oil phase from the homogenate of fish eggs is carried out by centrifugation and subsequent phase separation. Thus, after homogenization and subsequent centrifugation of the roe, it advantageously contains an oil phase, an aqueous phase and a precipitate. In some cases, an additional layer with swollen cellular components may be formed between the oil phase and the aqueous phase. In the subsequent separation and extraction of the homogenized oil phase, the removal of the constituents of the swollen layer consisting of cellular constituents should be avoided as far as possible.

During centrifugation, the centrifugation is advantageously carried out at 1500 to 3000G. The centrifugation time is advantageously 30 minutes to 2 hours. Subsequently, it should advantageously be waited until the phases are clearly visibly separated. Particularly clean separation of the components can be achieved if the conditions specified above are observed to be favorable.

The resulting homogenized oil phase already constitutes the fish egg extract according to the invention. It contains many different components and can therefore be specifically defined by the starting materials and the extraction method. The component of the obtained fish egg extract according to the present invention is a fatty acid. It has been shown to be advantageous in the sense of the present invention if a specific distribution of different fatty acids is present. Advantageously, the weight proportion of monounsaturated fatty acids in the fish egg extract according to the invention is from 30 to 50% by weight, in particular from 35 to 45% by weight, based on the total weight of all fatty acids contained in the fish egg extract. According to the invention, fatty acids include all unbranched, saturated and unsaturated carboxylic acids having from 6 to 28 carbon atoms. Advantageously, the roe extract according to the invention is furthermore characterized in that the weight proportion of polyunsaturated fatty acids in the roe extract is from 30 to 40% by weight, based on the total weight of all fatty acids contained in the roe extract. It is furthermore advantageous if the proportion by weight of omega-3 fatty acids in the roe extract is from 15 to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of all fatty acids contained in the roe extract. Furthermore, an advantageous roe extract according to the invention is characterized in that the weight proportion of omega-6 fatty acids in the roe extract is from 10 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of all fatty acids contained in the roe extract.

It has furthermore been shown that the stability, shelf life and/or purity of the fish egg extract according to the invention can be improved when the oil phase of the extracted homogenate is dried. Advantageously, the drying can be carried out with a salt suitable therefor, particularly advantageously with disodium sulfate (Na)₂SO₄)。

It has furthermore been shown that the stability, shelf life and/or purity of the fish egg extract according to the invention can be improved by filtering the extracted oil phase. Advantageously, filtration is carried out to remove all of the drying agent, for example disodium sulphate, from the oil phase.

Furthermore, advantageous fish egg extracts according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one preservative selected from the group of phenoxyethanol, phenylethyl alcohol and ethylhexylglycerol.

Advantageously, the total proportion of preservatives in the fish egg extract, in particular preservatives selected from the group of phenoxyethanol, phenylethyl alcohol and ethylhexylglycerol, is from 0.1 to 3.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the fish egg extract. If the above characteristics are observed, it has been shown that the roe extract has a shelf life of at least 2 years against bacterial infestation. Thus, there is no longer a need for immediate incorporation into cosmetic or dermatological preparations.

Furthermore, the roe extract according to the invention is advantageously characterized in that the weight proportion of triglycerides, in particular the proportion of decanoyl glyceride and octanoyl glyceride (caprylic/capric triglyceride), is from 50 to 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the roe extract.

It is advantageous in the sense of the present invention for the roe extract obtained according to the process according to the invention to be contained in the cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to the invention in a total proportion of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.02 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological preparation.

A particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the cosmetic or dermatological preparation comprises roe extracts of sturgeon roe obtained according to the method according to the invention in a total proportion of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.02 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological preparation.

The cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can be present in the form of customary cosmetic and/or dermatological galenic preparations, preferably as gels, O/W emulsions, W/O/W emulsions, O/W/O emulsions, microemulsions, cosmetic sticks.

The cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can preferably be present as lotions, ointments, foundations, toners, aqueous solutions, creams, gels, dusting powders, masks, foam preparations and aerosol preparations.

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations which are applied to the facial skin for daily care are usually formulated as emulsions. An emulsion is generally understood to mean a heterogeneous system consisting of two immiscible or only sparingly miscible liquids, in which one of the two liquids is dispersed in the other in the form of very fine droplets. The emulsion appeared to be homogeneous with the naked eye. If the two liquids are water and oil, and the oil is present in the water in the form of finely divided droplets, it is an oil-in-water emulsion (O/W emulsion). Conversely, if water is present in the oil as finely divided droplets, it is a water-in-oil emulsion (W/O emulsion).

It is particularly advantageous according to the invention that the cosmetic or dermatological preparation comprising the roe extract according to the invention is in the form of an O/W emulsion.

Emulsifiers are used to stabilize emulsions. In this respect, stabilizing means preventing or delaying the phase separation of the emulsion. Thus, stable emulsions can be produced by using a suitably selected emulsifier system.

Emulsifiers are molecules with a polar hydrophilic structural element and a nonpolar lipophilic structural element. Generally, such molecules can be defined by HLB values (a dimensionless number between 0 and 20) which indicate whether preferred water or oil solubility is present. Water-in-oil emulsifiers (W/O emulsifiers) generally have HLB values in the range of 3 to 8. Thus, the W/O emulsifier facilitates the stabilization of the aqueous phase suspended in the oil phase. The oil-in-water emulsifier (O/W emulsifier) has an HLB value of more than 8 to 18. They promote the stabilization of the oil phase suspended in the aqueous phase.

If the cosmetic or dermatological preparation containing the roe extract according to the invention is present as an oil-in-water emulsion, it is advantageous if the cosmetic or dermatological preparation comprises at least one O/W emulsifier having an HLB value in the range of from greater than 8 to 18. Advantageously selected O/W emulsifiers are taken from, for example, the following list:

chemical name of HLB value

8.2 Tripolyglycerol monooleate

8.3 diethylene glycol monolaurate

8.4 Polyoxyethylene (4) hexadecyl ether

Polyoxyethylene glycol (400) dioleate

8.5 sodium caproyl lactate

Polyethylene glycol (200) monostearate

Sorbitan monooleate

8.6 sorbitan monolaurate

Polyethylene glycol (200) monolaurate

8.8 Polyoxyethylene (4) myristyl ether

Polyethylene glycol (400) dioleate

8.9 Polyoxyethylation of nonyl phenols with 4 mol EO

9.0 Oleeth-5

9.2-9.7 polyoxyethylene (4) lauryl alcohol

9.3 Polyoxyethylene (4) tridecanol

9.6 Polyoxyethylene (4) sorbitan monostearate

9.8 polyethylene glycol (200) monolaurate

10-11 polyethylene glycol (400) monooleate

10.0 Didodecyl dimethyl ammonium chloride

10.0 polyethylene glycol (200) monolaurate

Polyethylene glycol (400) dilaurate

Polyethylene glycol (600) dioleate

Polyoxyethylene (4) sorbitan monostearate

Polyoxyethylene (5) sorbitan monooleate

10-12 Glycerol stearate citrate

10.2 Polyoxyethylene (40) sorbitol hexaoleate

10.4-10.6 polyoxyethylene glycol (600) distearate

10.5 Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan tristearate

10.6 sucrose monostearate

10.7 sucrose monooleate

11-11.4 polyethylene glycol (400) monooleate

11.0 polyethylene glycol (350) monostearate

Polyethylene glycol (400) monotartaric acid ester

Polyoxyethylene glycol (7) monostearate

Polyoxyethylene glycol (8) monooleate

Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan trioleate

Polyoxyethylene (6) tridecanol

11.1 polyethylene glycol (400) monostearate

11.2 Polyoxyethylene (9) monostearate

Sucrose monooleate

Sucrose monostearate

11.4 Polyoxyethylene (50) sorbitol hexaoleate

Sucrose monotartate

Sucrose stearate palmitate

11.6 polyoxyethylene glycol (400) monoricinoleate

11.7 sucrose monomyristate

Sucrose monopalmitate

12.0 PEG-10 Soyasterol

Triethanolamine oleate

12.2-12.3 nonylphenol ethoxylated with 8 moles of EO

12.2 sucrose monomyristate

12.4 sucrose monolaurate

Polyoxyethylene (10) oleyl alcohol, polyoxyethylene (10) oleyl ether

Polyoxyethylene (10) stearyl alcohol, polyoxyethylene (10) stearyl ether

12.5 Polyoxyethylene (10) stearyl cetyl ether

12.7 Polyoxyethylene (8) tridecanol

12.8 polyoxyethylene glycol (400) monolaurate

Sucrose mono-cocoate

12.9 Polyoxyethylene (10) cetyl ether

13 Glycerol monostearate, ethoxylated (20 mol EO)

13.0 Eumulgin O10 (polyoxyethylene (10) oleyl ether)

Eumulgin 286 (nonylphenol polyether-10)

Eumulgin B1 (cetostearyl polyether-12)

13.0C 12 fatty amine, ethoxylated (5 mol EO)

13.1 nonylphenol, ethoxylated (9.5 moles EO)

13.2 polyethylene glycol (600) monostearate

Polyoxyethylene (16) tall oil

13.3 polyoxyethylene (4) sorbitan monolaurate

13.5 nonylphenol, ethoxylated (10.5 moles EO)

Polyethylene glycol (600) monooleate

13.7 Polyoxyethylene (10) tridecanol

Polyethylene glycol (660) monotartaric acid ester

Polyethylene glycol (1500) monostearate

Polyoxyethylene glycol (1500) dioleate

13.9 polyethylene glycol (400) Monococoate

Polyoxyethylene (9) monolaurate

14-16 Castor oil, ethoxylated with 40EO and hydrogenated

14.0 polyoxyethylene (12) lauryl ether

Polyoxyethylene (12) tridecyl alcohol

14.2 Polyoxyethylene (15) stearyl alcohol

14.3 Polyoxyethylene (15) stearyl cetyl ether

14.4 mixtures of C12-C15 fatty alcohols with 12 mol EO

14.5 polyoxyethylene (12) lauryl alcohol

14.8 polyoxyethylene glycol (600) monolaurate

14.9-15.2 sorbitan monostearate ethoxylated with 20EO

15-15.9 sorbitan monooleate ethoxylated with 20EO

15.0 PEG-20 glyceryl stearate

PEG-40 Castor oil

Decyl glucoside

Dodecyl glucoside

Dodecyl trimethyl ammonium chloride

Nonyl phenol ethoxylated with 15 moles of EO

Polyethylene glycol (1000) monostearate

Polyoxyethylene (600) monooleate

15-17 Castor oil, ethoxylated with 60EO and hydrogenated

15.3C 12 fatty amines polyoxyethylenated with 12 mol EO

Polyoxyethylene (20) oleyl alcohol, polyoxyethylene (20) oleyl ether

15.4 Polyoxyethylene (20) stearyl cetyl ether

15.5 Polyoxyethylene (20) stearyl alcohol

15.6 polyoxyethylene glycol (1000) monostearate

Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monopalmitate

15.7 polyoxyethylene (20) cetyl ether

15.9 Triethanolamine distearyl heptanediol ether disodium sulfosuccinate

16.0 nonyl phenol ethoxylated with 20 moles of EO

Polyoxyethylene (25) propylene glycol stearate

16-16.8 Polyoxyethylene (30) monostearate

16.3-16.9 Polyoxyethylene (40) monostearate

16.5-16.7 polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate

16.6 polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitol

16.7C 18 fatty amines polyoxyethylenated with 5 mol EO

Polyoxyethylene (23) lauryl alcohol

17.0 ceteareth-30, e.g. Eumulgin B3

Octyl glucoside (Triton CG 110)

Polyoxyethylene (30) glyceryl monolaurate

17.1 nonylphenol ethoxylated with 30 mol EO

17.4 Polyoxyethylene (40) stearyl alcohol

18.8 PEG-100 stearate

Steareth-100

19.1 PEG-80 sorbitan laurate

In the above list, the abbreviation EO stands for ethylene oxide.

According to the invention, such O/W emulsions may also advantageously contain a W/O emulsifier, wherein the ratio of O/W emulsifier to W/O emulsifier is chosen such that an O/W emulsion occurs, taking into account the respective HLB value. A known mixture of O/W emulsifier and W/O emulsifier is commercial Arlacel 170 from Croda, which contains glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, where the ratio of the two substances is chosen so that the overall HLB is about 11.

In addition to the fish egg extract according to the invention, the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention advantageously contain an oil selected from lecithin and fatty acid triglycerides, i.e. triglycerides of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18, C atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides may advantageously be chosen from synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, thistle oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like.

Furthermore, the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention may advantageously comprise further oils selected from branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular vaseline (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins and hydrogenated polyisobutenes. Among polyolefins, polydecene is the preferred material.

Furthermore, the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention may advantageously contain further fatty components and/or wax components selected from the group consisting of vegetable waxes, animal waxes, mineral waxes and petrochemical waxes. According to the invention, it is advantageous, for example, to use candelilla wax, carnauba wax, japan wax, thatch wax, cork wax, melon-ruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, berry wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, jojoba wax, shea butter, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti wax, lanolin (wool wax), tail fat, ceresin wax, mineral wax (ozokerite), paraffin wax and microcrystalline wax.

Further advantageous fatty and/or wax components are chemically modified waxes and synthetic waxes, such as waxes from CRODA ltd under the trade names Syncrowax HRC (glyceryl tribehenate) and Syncrowax AW 1C (C18-36 fatty acids), and also montan ester waxes, saso waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes, synthetic or modified beeswax (e.g. dimethicone copolyol beeswax and/or C30-50 alkyl beeswax), polyalkylene waxes, polyethylene glycol waxes, and chemically modified fats, such as hydrogenated vegetable oils (e.g. hydrogenated castor oil and/or hydrogenated coconut fatty glycerides), triglycerides, such as trihydroxystearin, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and glycol esters, such as C20-40 alkyl stearate, C20-40 alkyl hydroxystearyl stearate and/or ethylene glycol montanate.

It may also be advantageous in the sense of the present invention for the cosmetic or dermatological preparations to contain cyclic, branched and/or linear siloxanes. The group of cyclic, branched and/or linear siloxanes is also referred to as "silicone oils" in this disclosure. The linear silicone oil is described by INCI name polydimethylsiloxane and has a structure according to formula (I)

And branched silicone oils can be described according to formula (II)

Wherein R is¹And R²May be, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, a methyl group or a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 3 to 30 carbon atoms, and wherein x, y and z are, independently of one another, integers in the range from 0 to 60000. Cyclic siloxanes are known under the INCI name cyclomethicone.

It is advantageous here for the proportion by weight of silicone oil in the cosmetic or dermatological preparation to be 3% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological preparation.

Furthermore, the cosmetic or dermatological preparations are advantageously characterized in that the total proportion of the oil phase in the O/W emulsion is from 2 to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% by weight to 25% by weight, and particularly preferably from 8% by weight to 22% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological preparation, wherein the roe extract according to the invention is contained in the oil phase. Silicone oils also belong to the oil phase of cosmetic or dermatological preparations.

It is furthermore advantageous if the total proportion of water in the cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to the invention is from 50% to 90% by weight, preferably from 60% to 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological preparation.

It is furthermore advantageous for the cosmetic or dermatological preparations to contain one or more rheology modifiers. Preferred rheology modifiers are selected from the group of INCI materials:

carbomers (Carbopol) type 980, 981, 2984, 5984 from Lubrizol corporation); acrylate copolymers (e.g. from Lubrizol Corp.)Aqua SF-1 polymers), acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers (e.g., Pemulen TR 1, Pemulen TR 2, Carbopol1328 from Lubrizol), hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymers, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymers (e.g., Aristoflex AVC from Clariant), polyacrylate-1 crosspolymers (e.g., Aristoflex AVC from Lubrizol)Aqua CC Polymer), sodium polyacrylate (e.g., Cosmedia SP from BASF corporation), copolymer of vinyl pyrrolidone and acrylic acid

Cellulose and cellulose derivatives, such as hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hyaluronic acid and xanthan gum

-starch, such as tapioca starch.

The rheology modifier is particularly preferably selected from the group consisting of carbomers, acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers, sodium polyacrylate, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer and ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer, known under the INCI name.

Advantageously, the total proportion of these rheology modifiers, in particular the one designated as preferred above, is from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological formulation. It is furthermore particularly advantageous for the tapioca starch to be contained in a proportion of up to 3.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological preparation, in addition to the substances referred to above as particularly preferred.

It is furthermore advantageous if all the rheology modifiers according to the invention are present in a weight ratio to the oil phase present of from 1:1 to 1:30, preferably from 1:2 to 1:28, particularly preferably from 1:20 to 1: 27. Such cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention have surprisingly advantageous creaminess and are not perceived by the consumer as brittle or too greasy and too fluid.

Advantageously according to the invention, the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention contain cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol.

If the cosmetic or dermatological preparation contains cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, it is advantageous according to the invention if the total proportion of these substances is from 0.5 to 5.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological preparation.

It is furthermore advantageous that the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention additionally contain one or more substances selected from the group consisting of ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether and/or diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether. It is preferred here that the cosmetic or dermatological preparations contain glycerol and/or propylene glycol.

It is also advantageous to use the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention as sunscreens. The preparations in the sense of the present invention therefore preferably contain at least one UV-A, UV-B and/or broad-spectrum filter substance. Although not essential, the formulations may optionally also contain one or more organic and/or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be present in the water and/or oil phase.

The formulations according to the invention may contain at least one UV filter substance which is liquid at room temperature.

Particularly advantageous UV filter substances which are liquid at room temperature in the sense of the present invention are homomenthyl salicylate (INCI: homosalate), 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3, 3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl-2-hydroxybenzoate (2-ethylhexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, INCI: ethylhexyl salicylate) and esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate (2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) and isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate (isoamyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate), 3- (4- (2, 2-bisethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) methoxysiloxane/dimethylsiloxane copolymers which may be used, for example, under the trade nameSLX was obtained from Hoffmann La Roche.

Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and/or other sparingly or insoluble water metal compounds, especially titanium oxides (TiO)₂) Zinc oxide (ZnO), iron oxide (e.g. Fe)₂O₃) Zirconium oxide (ZrO)₂) Silicon oxide (SiO)₂) Manganese oxide (e.g., MnO), aluminum oxide (Al)₂O₃) Cerium oxide (e.g. Ce)₂O₃) Mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of these oxides, and barium sulfate (BaSO)₄)。

In the sense of the present invention, the pigments can also be used advantageously in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Advantageously, dispersants and/or solubilizers may be added to these pre-dispersions.

According to the invention, the pigments can advantageously be surface-treated ("coated"), in which, for example, a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character is intended to be formed or maintained. The surface treatment may comprise providing the pigment with a thin hydrophilic and/or hydrophobic inorganic and/or organic layer according to methods known per se. In the sense of the present invention, the various surface coatings may also contain water.

Suitable titanium dioxide particles and pre-dispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available from the listed companies under the following trade names:

advantageous UV-A filter substances in the sense of the present invention are dibenzoylmethane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4' -methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS number 70356-09-1), which is marketed by Givaudan under the trademark Givaudan1789 and under the trade name Merck9020 to sell.

Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also:

phenylene-1, 4-bis- (2-benzimidazolyl) -3,3'-5,5' -tetrasulfonic acid and salts thereof, in particular the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, in particular the disodium salt of phenylene-1, 4-bis- (2-benzimidazolyl) -3,3'-5,5' -tetrasulfonic acid with the INCI name disodium phenyldibenzoimidazole tetrasulfonate (CAS number: 180898-37-7), which is obtainable, for example, from Symrise under the name Neo Heliopan AP;

2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulphonate, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolamine salt, and sulphonic acid itself, with the INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulphonic acid (CAS number: 27503-81-7), such as is available from Merck under the trade name Eusolex 232 or Symrise under the trade name Neo Heliopan Hydro;

1, 4-bis (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-norbornylmethyl) benzene (also known as 3,3' - (1, 4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis- (7, 7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-1-ylmethanesulfonic acid) and salts thereof (in particular the corresponding 10-sulfate compound, in particular the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), also known as benzene-1, 4-bis (2-oxo-3-norbornylmethyl-10-sulfonic acid), benzene-1, 4-bis (2-oxo-3-norbornylmethyl-10-sulfonic acid) has the INCI designation terephthalylidenedicamphor-sulfonic acid (CAS number 90457-82-2) and is obtainable, for example, from Chimex corporation under the name MexorylSX Obtaining;

sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidenecamphor, for example 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

Benzoxazole derivatives, e.g. 2, 4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) -imino]-6- (2-ethylhexyl) -imino-1, 3, 5-triazine with CAS number 288254-16-0, tradenameK2A was obtained from 3V Sigma.

Hydroxybenzophenones, for example hexyl 2- (4 '-diethylamino-2' -hydroxybenzoyl) -benzoate (also known as aminobenzophenone), which is commercially available from BASF under the trade name Uvinul a Plus.

Triazine derivatives, e.g. 2, 4-bis- { [4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy]Phenyl } -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3, 5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine), which is available under the trade name CIBA-Chemikalen Co., LtdS, obtaining; dioctyl butanamide triazone (INCI: diethylhexyl butamido triazone), which is available under the tradename UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V; 4,4',4 "- (1,3, 5-triazine-2, 4, 6-triyltrimethylamino) -tris-benzoic acid-tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), also known as: 2,4, 6-tris- [ anilino- (p-carbon-2 '-ethyl-1' -hexyloxy)]1,3, 5-triazine (INCI: ethylhexyl triazone) sold by BASF under the name ofT150 sale; 2- [4, 6-bis (2, 4-dimethylphenyl) -1,3, 5-triazin-2-yl]-5- (octyloxy) phenol (CAS number: 2725-22-6).

Benzotriazoles, for example 2,2' -methylenebis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3, 3-tetramethylbutyl) -phenol) (INCI: methylenebis-benzotriazolyl-tetramethylbutylphenol), which can be obtained, for example, from CIBA-Chemikalen, Ltd under the trade nameAnd M is obtained.

3-benzylidenecamphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidenecamphor;

4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, pentyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate;

esters of benzylidene malonic acid, preferably bis (2-ethylhexyl) 4-methoxyphenylmethylenemalonate;

esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate;

derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4 '-methylbenzophenone, 2' -dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, and

UV filters bonded to polymers

2-cyano-3, 3-diphenylacrylic acid ethylhexyl ester (Octocriline), which can be named from BASF539T.

Particularly advantageous cosmetic or dermatological preparations in the sense of the present invention, which are characterized by a high or very high UV-A protection, preferably contain, in addition to the filter substance(s) according to the invention, further UV-A and/or broad-spectrum filters, in particular dibenzoylmethane derivatives [ e.g.4- (tert-butyl) -4' -methoxydibenzoylmethane ] and/or 2, 4-bis- { [4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy ] -phenyl } -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3, 5-triazine and/or phenylene-1, 4-bis (2-benzimidazolyl) -3,3' -5,5' -tetrasulfonic acid disodium salt, each alone or in any combination with each other.

The list of said UV filters which can be used in the sense of the present invention is of course not limiting.

The total amount of filter substances is selected from the range from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1.0 to 8.0% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the preparation, in order to provide a cosmetic or dermatological preparation which protects the hair or skin from radiation in the entire ultraviolet range.

It is also advantageous that the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention contain at least one active substance for the cosmetic treatment and/or the cosmetic prevention of undesired skin pigmentation. The cosmetic or dermatological preparations therefore advantageously contain at least one alkylamidothiazole.

Alkylamidothiazoles which are advantageous in the sense of the present invention are substances of the general formula

Wherein

R³、R⁴X 'and Y' may be different, partially identical or completely identical and represent, independently of one another:

R³＝-C₁-C₂₄alkyl (linear and branched), -C₁-C₂₄Alkenyl (linear and branched), -C₁-C₈Cycloalkyl, -C₁-C₈Cycloalkyl-alkylhydroxy, -C₁-C₂₄Alkyl hydroxy (linear and branched), -C₁-C₂₄Alkylamines (linear and branched), -C₁-C₂₄Alkylaryl (linear and branched), -C₁-C₂₄Alkylaryl-alkyl-hydroxy (linear and branched), -C₁-C₂₄Alkyl heteroaryl (linear and branched), -C₁-C₂₄alkyl-O-C₁-C₂₄Alkyl (linear and branched), -C₁-C₂₄Alkyl-morpholinyl, -C₁-C₂₄Alkyl-piperidinyl, -C₁-C₂₄Alkyl-piperazinyl, -C₁-C₂₄An alkyl-piperazinyl-N-alkyl group,

R⁴＝H、-C₁-C₂₄alkyl (linear and branched), -C₁-C₂₄Alkenyl (linear and branched), -C₁-C₈-cycloalkyl, -C₁-C₂₄Hydroxyalkyl (linear and branched), -C₁-C₂₄Alkylaryl (linear and branched), -C₁-C₂₄Alkyl heteroaryl groups (both linear and branched),

X'＝-H、-C₁-C₂₄alkyl (linear and branched), -C₁-C₂₄Alkenyl (linear and branched), -C₁-C₈Cycloalkyl, -C₁-C₂₄Aryl (optionally substituted by-OH, -F, -Cl, -Br, -I, -OMe, -NH₂CN mono-or polysubstituted), C₁-C₂₄Heteroaryl (optionally substituted by-OH, -F, -Cl, -Br, -I, -OMe, -NH₂CN mono-or polysubstituted), C₁-C₂₄Alkylaryl (linear and branched), -C₁-C₂₄Alkylheteroaryl (linear and branched), aryl (optionally substituted by-OH, -F, -Cl, -Br, -I, -OMe, -NH₂-CN mono-or polysubstituted), phenyl, 2, 4-dihydroxyphenyl, -2, 3-dihydroxyphenyl, -2, 4-dimethoxyphenyl, -2, 3-dimethoxyphenyl,

Y'＝H、-C₁-C₂₄alkyl (linear and branched), -C₁-C₂₄Alkenyl (linear and branched), -C₁-C₈Cycloalkyl, -C₁-C₂₄Aryl radical, -C₁-C₂₄Heteroaryl, -C₁-C₂₄Alkylaryl (linear and branched), -C₁-C₂₄-alkylheteroaryl (linear and branched), aryl, phenyl, -2, 4-dihydroxyphenyl, -2, 3-dihydroxyphenyl, -2, 4-dimethoxyphenyl, -2, 3-dimethoxyphenyl, -COO-alkyl, -COO-alkenyl, -COO-cycloalkyl, -COO-aryl, -COO-heteroaryl,

and X ', Y' may also optionally represent fused aromatic groups,

wherein X 'and Y' may form an aromatic or aliphatic carbocyclic or heterocyclic ring system with up to n ring members, and wherein n may have a value of from 5 to 8, and the corresponding ring system may in turn be substituted with up to n-1 alkyl, hydroxyl, carboxyl, amino, nitrile functional groups, sulfur containing substituents, ester and/or ether groups.

The thiazoles may be present either as the free base or as salts: for example as fluoride, chloride, bromide, iodide, sulphate, carbonate, ascorbate, acetate or phosphate. In particular, as the halogen salt, for example, chloride and bromide are mentioned.

Advantageously, X 'is chosen from substituted phenyl groups, where the substituents Z' may be chosen from-H, -OH, -F, -Cl, -Br, -I, -OMe, -NH₂CN, -acetyl and may be the same or different.

Particularly advantageously, X 'is chosen from phenyl substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, where the substituent Z' is preferably chosen from-H, -OH, -F, -Cl, -Br, -I, -OMe, -NH₂CN, -acetyl and the following general structure, wherein Y' and R³And R⁴May have the properties defined above.

Advantageous are in particular compounds which: wherein

Y'＝H

R³＝-C₁-C₂₄Alkyl (linear and branched), -C₁-C₂₄Alkenyl (linear and branched), -C₁-C₈Cycloalkyl, -C₁-C₈Cycloalkyl-alkylhydroxy, -C₁-C₂₄Alkyl hydroxy (linear and branched), -C₁-C₂₄Alkylamines (linear and branched), -C₁-C₂₄Alkylaryl (linear and branched), -C₁-C₂₄Alkylaryl-alkyl-hydroxy (linear)And branched), -C₁-C₂₄Alkyl heteroaryl (linear and branched), -C₁-C₂₄alkyl-O-C₁-C₂₄Alkyl (linear and branched), -C₁-C₂₄Alkyl-morpholinyl, -C₁-C₂₄Alkyl-piperidinyl, -C₁-C₂₄Alkyl-piperazinyl, -C₁-C₂₄An alkyl-piperazinyl-N-alkyl group,

R⁴＝H、-C₁-C₂₄an alkyl group (linear and branched),

Z'＝-H、-OH、-F、-Cl、-Br、-I、-OMe、-NH₂CN, -acetyl.

Particularly preferred are compounds: wherein

Y'＝H

R³＝-C₁-C₂₄Alkyl (linear and branched), -C₁-C₂₄Alkenyl (linear and branched), -C₁-C₈Cycloalkyl, -C₁-C₈Cycloalkyl-alkylhydroxy, -C₁-C₂₄Alkyl hydroxy (linear and branched), -C₁-C₂₄Alkylamines (linear and branched), -C₁-C₂₄Alkylaryl (linear and branched), -C₁-C₂₄Alkylaryl-alkyl-hydroxy (linear and branched), -C₁-C₂₄Alkyl heteroaryl (linear and branched), -C₁-C₂₄alkyl-O-C₁-C₂₄Alkyl (linear and branched), -C₁-C₂₄Alkyl-morpholinyl, -C₁-C₂₄Alkyl-piperidinyl, -C₁-C₂₄Alkyl-piperazinyl, -C₁-C₂₄An alkyl-piperazinyl-N-alkyl group,

R⁴＝H。

according to the invention, the following compounds are preferred:

n- (4- (2, 4-dihydroxyphenyl) thiazol-2-yl) pivaloyl amide

N- (4- (2, 4-dihydroxyphenyl) thiazol-2-yl) isobutyramide

N- (4- (2, 4-dihydroxyphenyl) thiazol-2-yl) butanamide

N- (4- (2, 4-dihydroxyphenyl) thiazol-2-yl) heptanamide

N- (4- (2, 4-dihydroxyphenyl) thiazol-2-yl) -6-hydroxyhexanamide

N- (4- (2, 4-dihydroxyphenyl) thiazol-2-yl) -3-hydroxypropionamide

N- (4- (2, 4-dihydroxyphenyl) thiazol-2-yl) -2-methoxyacetamide

3-amino-N- (4- (2, 4-dihydroxyphenyl) thiazol-2-yl) propanamide

N- (4- (2, 4-dihydroxyphenyl) thiazol-2-yl) acetamide

N- (4- (2, 4-dihydroxyphenyl) thiazol-2-yl) -4- (hydroxymethyl) cyclohexanecarboxamide

N- (4- (2, 4-dihydroxyphenyl) thiazol-2-yl) cyclohexanecarboxamide, and

n- (4- (2, 4-dihydroxyphenyl) thiazol-2-yl) -2- (4- (hydroxymethyl) phenyl) acetamide

It is advantageous according to the invention if the proportion of the abovementioned alkylamidothiazoles in the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention is from 0.000001 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.0001 to 3% by weight, in particular from 0.001 to 1% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the dermatological or cosmetic preparation.

Thus, the cosmetic or dermatological preparations can also comprise further cosmetic auxiliaries which are customarily used in such preparations, for example further consistency agents, film formers, stabilizers, fillers, preservatives, fragrances, substances which prevent foaming, dyes, further pigments having a coloring effect, surface-active substances, softening, moistening and/or moisturizing substances, anti-inflammatory substances, further active substances such as vitamins or proteins, insect repellents, bactericides, virucides, salts, antimicrobial agents, proteolytically active substances or keratolytically active substances, or further customary ingredients of cosmetic preparations, such as further alcohols, polyols, foam stabilizers, organic solvents or electrolytes.

Detailed Description

Comparative tests and examples

The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention without limiting it. All amounts, ratios and percentages are by weight and total amount or based on the total weight of the formulation, unless otherwise specified.

(a) Production of the fish egg extract according to the invention:

to produce an egg extract according to the invention, acipenser sinensis eggs (using only breeder population eggs) are removed and borax is added. The production of the roe extract is carried out within 24 hours after the removal.

Furthermore, an oil phase is provided, consisting of 99.98% by weight of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 0.01% by weight of tocopherol and 0.01% by weight of BHT.

The aqueous phase additionally provided consisted of:

100mM phosphate (from sodium hydrogen phosphate);

1% by weight of phenoxyethanol;

1% by weight of a commercial product Sensivia Pa 20 from Sch ü lke & Mayr that contains phenethyl alcohol and ethylhexylglycerol;

0.2% by weight of EDTA; and

and (3) water.

The provided oil phase and the provided aqueous phase are combined and the roe is then suspended in the mixture. The weight ratio of the oil phase to the roe was 0.3:1, and the weight ratio of the water phase to the roe was 1:1.

The resulting mixture consisting of oil phase, water phase and roe was then homogenized using a Manton-Gaulin homogenizer.

The homogenate obtained was then centrifuged at 2000G for 1 hour. A manual phase separation is then carried out, wherein the oil phase constitutes the roe extract according to the invention.

To improve the shelf life of the resulting roe extract, it was dried over sodium sulfate and then filtered to remove sodium sulfate and other insoluble components for improved purity.

(b) Analysis of

Analysis of the oil phase of the homogenate from (a), i.e. the roe extract according to the invention, showed a proportion of saturated fatty acids in the roe extract of 23.1% by weight, based on the total weight of all fatty acids contained.

Furthermore, it has been found that the proportion of monounsaturated fatty acids in the roe extract is 41.7% by weight, based on the total weight of all fatty acids contained.

Furthermore, it has been found that the proportion of polyunsaturated fatty acids in the roe extract is 35.2% by weight, based on the total weight of all fatty acids contained.

Furthermore, it has been found that the proportion of omega-3 fatty acids in the roe extract is 20.3% by weight, based on the total weight of all fatty acids contained.

Furthermore, it has been found that the proportion of omega-6 fatty acids in the roe extract is 14.8% by weight, based on the total weight of all fatty acids contained.

The proportion of phenoxyethanol is in the range of 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the roe extract.

(c) Efficacy studies on laminin expression

To verify the advantageous efficacy of the fish egg extract according to the invention, the extent to which the extract increases laminin-5 gene expression in keratinocytes (HaCaT) was investigated. For this purpose, the cells are incubated for 6 hours with the extract to be tested. Subsequently, all RNA was extracted with the GenElute mammalian total RNA purification kit (SIGMA) and processed as directed. Quantitative determination of the laminin-5 gene according to RT-PCR (real-time quantitative PCR) with the respective specific primers: l am5- γ F: 5'ATCAACAGGTGAGCTATGG3' and LAM5- γ R: 5'CAATCTCCTGTGTCTGGAT 3'.

For comparative experiments, the above studies were carried out once without the fish egg extract according to the invention and once with 0.1 wt.% of fish egg extract (a). Furthermore, aqueous roe extracts from acipenser sinensis roe, also obtained by mechanical methods under applied pressure, were studied. The proportion thereof used was 0.001% by weight.

The measurement results obtained are shown in fig. 1. It has been shown that the use of the fish egg extract (a) according to the present invention results in an increase in the expression of the laminin-5 gene. It has been determined that the gamma subunit of laminin-5 increased by 18% (statistically significant, p <0.0065) compared to the control group.

In contrast, the use of the aqueous roe extract showed inhibition of the expression of laminin-5 (γ subunit) compared to the control group.