阅读说明：本技术 一种100％兔绒短绒单面大衣呢烫光面料制作工艺 (Manufacturing process of 100% rabbit hair short-velvet single-side overcoat woolen fabric ) 是由 云慧忠 麻英俊 徐�明 麻利军 于 2021-09-10 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明公开了一种100％兔绒短绒单面大衣呢烫光面料制作工艺,包括以下步骤：S1：织造兔绒生胚,将兔绒通过纱线经机织或针织成生胚面料,并对生胚进行修补,并进行浸湿、洗呢、缩呢、烘干处理；S2：起毛,对生胚进行钢丝起毛,将生胚面料引入起绒针刺机,通过起绒针刺机对生胚面料进行单面起毛；S3：将起毛后的生胚面料进行浸轧,然后进行煮呢、烘干；S4：干整理,将烘干后的面料进行刷毛、剪毛,然后进行熟胚修补,接着进行刷毛、烫光、剪毛、刷毛、烫光处理。本发明的有益效果是：本发明直接使用兔绒进行呢面料生胚的制造,取代以底料填充兔绒的方式,所以呢面料是全兔绒,整体呢面料的手感更好。(The invention discloses a manufacturing process of a 100% rabbit hair short-velvet single-side overcoat woolen lustre fabric, which comprises the following steps: s1: weaving a rabbit wool raw blank, weaving or knitting rabbit wool into a raw blank fabric through yarns, repairing the raw blank, and carrying out soaking, washing, milling and drying treatment; s2: fluffing, namely performing steel wire fluffing on the raw blank, introducing the raw blank fabric into a napping needle machine, and performing single-side fluffing on the raw blank fabric through the napping needle machine; s3: padding the fluffed green fabric, and then boiling and drying; s4: and (3) dry finishing, brushing and shearing the dried fabric, then performing mature embryo repair, and then brushing, polishing, shearing, brushing and polishing. The invention has the beneficial effects that: according to the invention, the rabbit wool is directly used for manufacturing the raw blank of the woolen fabric, and the mode of filling the rabbit wool with the bottom material is replaced, so that the woolen fabric is full rabbit wool, and the overall woolen fabric has better hand feeling.)

1. A manufacturing process of a 100% rabbit hair short velvet single-side overcoat woolen fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps:

s1: weaving a rabbit wool raw blank, weaving or knitting rabbit wool into a raw blank fabric through yarns, repairing the raw blank, and carrying out soaking, washing, milling and drying treatment;

s2: fluffing, namely performing steel wire fluffing on the raw blank, introducing the raw blank fabric into a napping needle machine, and performing single-side fluffing on the raw blank fabric through the napping needle machine;

s3: padding the fluffed green fabric, and then boiling and drying;

s4: and (3) dry finishing, brushing and shearing the dried fabric, then performing mature embryo repair, and then brushing, polishing, shearing, brushing and polishing.

2. The manufacturing process of the 100% rabbit hair short-velvet single-side overcoat woolen ironing fabric according to claim 1, which is characterized in that:

s11: the rabbit hair short velvet is woven into yarn, and then the rabbit hair yarn is woven into fabric by using a yarn warp machine or a knitting mode;

s12: transferring the rabbit hair fabric raw embryo to a detection table for detection, and repairing the defects in the rabbit hair fabric;

s13: and (3) immersing the repaired rabbit hair fabric blank in clear water, adding a detergent for scouring treatment, transferring the blank to a milling machine after the scouring treatment is finished, adding a milling agent for milling treatment, and transferring the blank to a dryer for dewatering and drying after the milling treatment is finished.

3. The manufacturing process of the 100% rabbit hair short-velvet single-side overcoat woolen ironing fabric according to claim 1, which is characterized in that:

s21: firstly, a steel wire raising machine is adopted to raise single-side steel wires of the dried green fabric;

s22: and then introducing the raw blank subjected to the steel wire fuzzing into a raising needle machine, and carrying out secondary fuzzing on the steel wire fuzzing surface.

4. The manufacturing process of the 100% rabbit hair short-velvet single-side overcoat woolen ironing fabric according to claim 1, which is characterized in that:

s31: immersing the fluffed rabbit hair fabric into a padding liquid, performing oxidation pretreatment of padding hydrogen peroxide and steaming on the rabbit hair fabric, washing with water, performing treatment of padding biological enzyme and steaming biological enzyme, inactivating enzyme, and washing with water;

s32: transferring the padded rabbit hair fabric to the inside of a crabbing machine for crabbing treatment;

s33: transferring the rabbit hair fabric subjected to the crabbing treatment to a dryer for drying, and coiling.

5. The manufacturing process of the 100% rabbit hair short-velvet single-side overcoat woolen ironing fabric according to claim 1, which is characterized in that:

s41: transferring the dried and coiled rabbit hair fabric to a finishing platform, flatly paving the rabbit hair fabric, brushing the rabbit hair fabric in one direction, and trimming overlong fuzz after brushing is finished;

s42: inspecting the trimmed rabbit hair fabric, and repairing flaws in the fabric;

s43: carrying out secondary brushing treatment on the repaired rabbit hair fabric, then transferring the rabbit hair fabric into a natural luster finishing machine for natural cooling;

s45: and transferring the rabbit hair fabric subjected to the ironing light treatment to a finishing platform, carrying out secondary shearing treatment, carrying out tertiary brushing treatment on the sheared rabbit hair fabric, finally carrying out secondary ironing light treatment on the rabbit hair fabric subjected to the treatment, and naturally cooling and coiling.

Technical Field

The invention relates to a fabric manufacturing process, in particular to a manufacturing process of a 100% rabbit hair short velvet single-side overcoat woolen lustre fabric, and belongs to the technical field of fabric manufacturing.

Background

Woolen cloth, a thick and dense woolen fabric, is often used for uniforms, coats and the like.

The fur-smoothing overcoat woolen cloth has the difference of long fur smoothing and short fur smoothing, and has the common characteristics that: the fabric surface is covered by dense villi, and is flat and uniform, the villi are inverted to one direction, the sizing is good, the hair is not removed, the hand feeling is smooth and soft, the hair is not soft, and the flesh is bright. The fluff overcoat woolen cloth adopts a fluff dyeing process, and plump fluff comes from fulling and fluffing. During the production process of the rabbit-down short-staple single-side overcoat woolen material, the production requirement is higher. The calendering process is mainly related to temperature, the speed of the fabric in calendering and the pressure in calendering, generally, the higher the temperature, the slower the speed and the higher the pressure which are needed for better calendering effect, but if the temperature exceeds the material bearing range, the fabric can be embrittled and hardened, and if the calendering temperature is high after dyeing, the color can be lost, and the color is difficult to control.

The rabbit-hair overcoat woolen fabric can be matched with cotton and other materials in the production process, so that the overall hand feeling is not soft enough, and the stereoscopic impression is not sufficient; the processing difficulty of the whole overcoat woolen is high due to the restriction of rabbit hair materials, and the time for milling and boiling is long; in addition, in the existing rabbit-hair overcoat woolen cloth production process, one-time ironing treatment is adopted, and the fur fibers of the rabbit-hair fabric are not vertical and smooth enough.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to solve the problems and provide a process for manufacturing 100% rabbit hair short velvet single-side overcoat woolen lustre fabric.

The invention realizes the aim through the following technical scheme, and a manufacturing process of a 100% rabbit hair short velvet single-side overcoat woolen lustre fabric comprises the following steps:

s1: weaving a rabbit wool raw blank, weaving or knitting rabbit wool into a raw blank fabric through yarns, repairing the raw blank, and carrying out soaking, washing, milling and drying treatment;

s2: fluffing, namely performing steel wire fluffing on the raw blank, introducing the raw blank fabric into a napping needle machine, and performing single-side fluffing on the raw blank fabric through the napping needle machine;

s3: padding the fluffed green fabric, and then boiling and drying;

s4: and (3) dry finishing, brushing and shearing the dried fabric, then performing mature embryo repair, and then brushing, polishing, shearing, brushing and polishing.

Preferably, S11: the rabbit hair short velvet is woven into yarn, and then the rabbit hair yarn is woven into fabric by using a yarn warp machine or a knitting mode;

s12: transferring the rabbit hair fabric raw embryo to a detection table for detection, and repairing the defects in the rabbit hair fabric;

s13: and (3) immersing the repaired rabbit hair fabric blank in clear water, adding a detergent for scouring treatment, transferring the blank to a milling machine after the scouring treatment is finished, adding a milling agent for milling treatment, and transferring the blank to a dryer for dewatering and drying after the milling treatment is finished.

Preferably, S21: firstly, a steel wire raising machine is adopted to raise single-side steel wires of the dried green fabric;

s22: and then introducing the raw blank subjected to the steel wire fuzzing into a raising needle machine, and carrying out secondary fuzzing on the steel wire fuzzing surface.

Preferably, S31: immersing the fluffed rabbit hair fabric into a padding liquid, performing oxidation pretreatment of padding hydrogen peroxide and steaming on the rabbit hair fabric, washing with water, performing treatment of padding biological enzyme and steaming biological enzyme, inactivating enzyme, and washing with water;

s32: transferring the padded rabbit hair fabric to the inside of a crabbing machine for crabbing treatment;

s33: transferring the rabbit hair fabric subjected to the crabbing treatment to a dryer for drying, and coiling.

Preferably, S41: transferring the dried and coiled rabbit hair fabric to a finishing platform, flatly paving the rabbit hair fabric, brushing the rabbit hair fabric in one direction, and trimming overlong fuzz after brushing is finished;

s42: inspecting the trimmed rabbit hair fabric, and repairing flaws in the fabric;

s43: carrying out secondary brushing treatment on the repaired rabbit hair fabric, then transferring the rabbit hair fabric into a natural luster finishing machine for natural cooling;

s45: and transferring the rabbit hair fabric subjected to the ironing light treatment to a finishing platform, carrying out secondary shearing treatment, carrying out tertiary brushing treatment on the sheared rabbit hair fabric, finally carrying out secondary ironing light treatment on the rabbit hair fabric subjected to the treatment, and naturally cooling and coiling.

The invention has the beneficial effects that:

firstly, the rabbit wool is directly used for manufacturing the raw blank of the woolen fabric, and the mode of filling the rabbit wool with the bottom material is replaced, so that the woolen fabric is full rabbit wool, and the overall woolen fabric has better hand feeling; meanwhile, milling treatment is directly carried out at the initial treatment stage of the blank, so that the forming stereoscopic impression of the whole woolen fabric is improved.

Secondly, the rabbit wool green body is processed in a single-side fluffing mode, the raw body fluffing mode is determined according to the rabbit wool material used by the green body and the using direction of a finished product, the determination of the raw body processing mode in the padding stage is facilitated, and the processing difficulty of the wool fabric is reduced.

Thirdly, the rabbit hair fabric fur fiber is vertical and smooth, soft in hand feeling and tidier in wool surface through two ironing and polishing treatments, two shearing treatments and three brushing treatments.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a schematic view of the overall process flow structure of the present invention.

Detailed Description

The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below with reference to the drawings in the embodiments of the present invention, and it is obvious that the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all of the embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.

Referring to fig. 1, a process for manufacturing a 100% rabbit hair short-velvet single-side overcoat woolen fabric comprises the following steps:

s1: weaving a rabbit wool raw blank, weaving or knitting rabbit wool into a raw blank fabric through yarns, repairing the raw blank, and carrying out soaking, washing, milling and drying treatment;

s2: fluffing, namely performing steel wire fluffing on the raw blank, introducing the raw blank fabric into a napping needle machine, and performing single-side fluffing on the raw blank fabric through the napping needle machine;

s3: padding the fluffed green fabric, and then boiling and drying;

s4: and (3) dry finishing, brushing and shearing the dried fabric, then performing mature embryo repair, and then brushing, polishing, shearing, brushing and polishing.

As a technical optimization scheme of the present invention, S11: the rabbit hair short velvet is woven into yarn, and then the rabbit hair yarn is woven into fabric by using a yarn warp machine or a knitting mode;

spinning rabbit hair short velvet into thick wool through a wool spinning system, and then knitting the rabbit hair short velvet into square fabric blanks with uniform shapes through a yarn warp knitting machine or a knitting needle;

s12: transferring the rabbit hair fabric raw embryo to a detection table for detection, and repairing the defects in the rabbit hair fabric;

flatly paving the rabbit wool fabric blank on a detection table, detecting the uniformity of the rabbit wool fabric blank, and repairing the defects of uneven thickness or position loss and other defects influencing the integrity of the fabric blank in the blank;

s13: soaking the repaired rabbit hair fabric blank in clear water, adding a detergent for scouring treatment, transferring the blank to a fulling machine after the scouring treatment is finished, adding a fulling agent for fulling treatment, transferring the blank to a dryer for dewatering and drying after the fulling treatment is finished;

transferring the rabbit wool fabric blank into a clean water tank to soak for two hours, so that the blank fabric fully absorbs water; then transferring the green fabric into a rope-shaped washing machine, and adding an anionic detergent, such as soap, into the washing machine, so that the wool fabric is soft and full in hand feeling, and the washing time is set to be forty-five to ninety minutes; after the wool washing is finished, washing the washed green blank by using warm water with the temperature of about forty ℃, and cleaning the green blank; transferring the cleaned green blank into a milling machine, and adding a neutral milling agent; and after the fulling treatment is finished, transferring the fabric blank into a dryer, dehydrating and drying at a low temperature.

As a technical optimization scheme of the present invention, S21: firstly, a steel wire raising machine is adopted to raise single-side steel wires of the dried green fabric;

introducing the fabric blank subjected to the fulling treatment into a steel wire fluffer, fluffing one side of the fabric blank, and performing secondary and secondary reverse fluffing by using the steel wire fluffer; if the produced rabbit hair fabric is used for manufacturing high-quality clothes, a bur raising machine is additionally used in the raising process, the steel wire II is used for raising hair in a positive-negative mode, the bur III is used for raising hair in a positive-negative warm water mode, and finally cold water raising is carried out, so that the raised hair is more flexible and dense, and the luster is enhanced;

s22: then, introducing the raw blank subjected to the steel wire fuzzing into a raising needle machine, and carrying out secondary raising on the steel wire fuzzing surface;

the fluffed raw blank is transferred to the inside of a napping needle machine, the steel wire napping surface of the raw blank of the fabric is subjected to needle processing, the tightness of the napping of the rabbit-napping fabric is enhanced, and if the fluffiness of the rabbit-napping fabric is required to be kept, the needle machine processing can be omitted.

As a technical optimization scheme of the present invention, S31: immersing the fluffed rabbit hair fabric into a padding liquid, performing oxidation pretreatment of padding hydrogen peroxide and steaming on the rabbit hair fabric, washing with water, performing treatment of padding biological enzyme and steaming biological enzyme, inactivating enzyme, and washing with water;

the damage to fibers is small, the quality of treated fabrics is high, the hand feeling is soft, the chroma, the pH value and the COD value of the treated wastewater are far lower than those of the traditional process, the burden of sewage treatment is reduced, and the ecological environment protection is facilitated;

s32: transferring the padded rabbit hair fabric to the inside of a crabbing machine for crabbing treatment;

transferring the padded rabbit hair fabric into an open-width continuous crabbing machine, so that the size of the wool fabric is stable, the shrinkage rate is reduced, and the elasticity and the wrinkle resistance of the wool fabric are enhanced;

s33: transferring the rabbit hair fabric subjected to the crabbing treatment to a dryer for low-temperature drying, and coiling.

As a technical optimization scheme of the present invention, S41: transferring the dried and coiled rabbit hair fabric to a finishing platform, flatly paving the rabbit hair fabric, brushing the rabbit hair fabric in one direction, and trimming overlong fuzz after brushing is finished;

the flat rabbit hair ripened embryo is introduced into a brushing machine, the fabric is ground to obtain fluff through a licker-in, and impurities on the surface of the fabric are removed or the fluff of the fabric is more full and tidy; then, introducing the rabbit hair mature embryo into a warp-wise shearing machine, shearing the fluff into upright and tidy short hair, or shearing long hair to make the surface of the wool flat; then brushing the hair again to remove the hair scraps so as to enable the surface of the woolen cloth to be clean;

s42: inspecting the trimmed rabbit hair fabric, and repairing flaws in the fabric;

detecting the rabbit hair fabric mature embryo through a Uster (Uster) evenness tester and a dyeing fastness tester of the printing and dyeing fabric, wherein the rabbit hair fabric mature embryo is used for measuring evenness of slivers, roving and spun yarns and fading degree of the rabbit hair fabric mature embryo under the actions of sun drying, rubbing and the like;

s43: carrying out secondary brushing treatment on the repaired rabbit hair fabric, then transferring the rabbit hair fabric into a natural luster finishing machine for natural cooling;

introducing the detected rabbit hair fabric into a brushing machine, brushing for the second time, introducing the rabbit hair fabric into a natural luster finishing machine, performing natural luster finishing treatment on the fluffy surface of the rabbit hair fabric, setting the temperature of the natural luster finishing machine to sixty ℃ for the first time to ensure that fur fibers of the rabbit hair fabric are vertical and smooth, transferring the rabbit hair fabric to a finishing platform, and naturally cooling;

s45: transferring the rabbit hair fabric subjected to the ironing treatment to a finishing platform, performing secondary shearing treatment, performing tertiary brushing treatment on the sheared rabbit hair fabric, performing secondary ironing treatment on the treated rabbit hair fabric, naturally cooling and coiling;

performing secondary shearing treatment on the primarily polished rabbit hair fabric, and further improving the smoothness of the hair raising surface of the rabbit hair fabric; then brushing hair for the third time through a brushing machine, and brushing off hair scraps to enable the woolen surface to be neat; finally, the processed rabbit hair fabric is introduced into the natural luster finishing machine again for second natural luster finishing treatment, and the natural luster finishing temperature is set to be eighty ℃; and finally, transferring the rabbit wool fabric to a finishing platform, and naturally cooling.

To those skilled in the art;

firstly, the rabbit wool is directly used for manufacturing the raw blank of the woolen fabric, and the mode of filling the rabbit wool with the bottom material is replaced, so that the woolen fabric is full rabbit wool, and the overall woolen fabric has better hand feeling; meanwhile, milling treatment is directly carried out at the initial treatment stage of the blank, so that the forming stereoscopic impression of the whole woolen fabric is improved.

Secondly, the rabbit wool green body is processed in a single-side fluffing mode, the raw body fluffing mode is determined according to the rabbit wool material used by the green body and the using direction of a finished product, the determination of the raw body processing mode in the padding stage is facilitated, and the processing difficulty of the wool fabric is reduced.

Thirdly, the rabbit hair fabric fur fiber is vertical and smooth, soft in hand feeling and tidier in wool surface through two ironing and polishing treatments, two shearing treatments and three brushing treatments.

Furthermore, it should be understood that although the present description refers to embodiments, not every embodiment may contain only a single embodiment, and such description is for clarity only, and those skilled in the art should integrate the description, and the embodiments may be combined as appropriate to form other embodiments understood by those skilled in the art.