阅读说明：本技术 一种具有舒缓平衡护肤功效的化妆水组合物及其制备方法 (Toning lotion composition with effects of relieving, balancing and protecting skin and preparation method thereof ) 是由 祝希宇 杨帆 周紫燕 郭苗 周正 郭阳 于 2021-09-26 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明涉及一种具有舒缓平衡护肤功效的化妆水组合物及其制备方法。按组合物的总重计,本发明的化妆水包含：1-35％舒缓平衡功效组合物、5-30％的保湿剂、0-30％的皮肤调理剂、0-10％增稠剂、0.01-2％螯合剂、0.01-1％增溶剂、0.3-5％的防腐剂、0.01-1.0％的日用香精、适量的pH调节剂及去离子水余量。其中功效组合物的成分为星芒杉藻提取物、沙漠蔷薇叶细胞提取物、及棕榈酰三肽-5/盐生杜氏藻/透明质酸钠/维他命原B5。上述多种功效成分具有保湿相关因子基因表达的促进作用,高保湿效果,平衡肌肤,提高皮肤的免疫功能和抵抗外界刺激的能力。本发明的化妆水组合物通过原料的科学组合,利用各功效成分之间的协同作用,最终达到安全有效的保湿和舒缓效果,使肌肤保持水润、舒适的状态。(The invention relates to a toning lotion composition with the effects of relieving, balancing and protecting skin and a preparation method thereof. The lotion of the present invention comprises, based on the total weight of the composition: 1-35% of a composition with the effects of relieving and balancing, 5-30% of a humectant, 0-30% of a skin conditioner, 0-10% of a thickening agent, 0.01-2% of a chelating agent, 0.01-1% of a solubilizer, 0.3-5% of a preservative, 0.01-1.0% of a daily essence, a proper amount of a pH regulator and the balance of deionized water. The functional composition comprises a Gigartina astratae extract, a Rosa desertorum leaf cell extract, and palmitoyl tripeptide-5/Dunaliella salina/sodium hyaluronate/provitamin B5. The above various functional components have effects of promoting gene expression of moisturizing related factor, high moisturizing effect, balancing skin, improving skin immunity and resisting external irritation. The toning lotion composition provided by the invention has the advantages that through scientific combination of raw materials, the synergistic effect among the functional components is utilized, the safe and effective moisturizing and relieving effects are finally achieved, and the skin is kept in a moist and comfortable state.)

1. A toning lotion composition with the effects of relieving, balancing and protecting skin is characterized in that: the composition comprises the following raw material components in percentage by weight:

1.0-35.0% of a balance-soothing efficacy composition comprising: 0.1-30.0% of Siberian cunninghamia extract, 0.1-30.0% of desert rose leaf cell extract and 50.1-30.0% of palmitoyl tripeptide-5/Dunaliella salina/sodium hyaluronate/provitamin B;

5-30% of humectant;

0-30% of a skin conditioning agent;

0-10% of a thickening agent;

0.3-5.0% of preservative;

0.01-2% of a chelating agent;

0.01-1% of a solubilizer;

0.01-1.0% of daily essence;

proper amount of pH regulator and deionized water.

2. The lotion composition having soothing balance skin care effect as claimed in claim 1, wherein: based on the total weight of the composition, the composition consists of the following components:

3.0-30.0% of a balance-soothing efficacy composition comprising: 1-25% of a taxus asteroides extract, 1-25% of a desert rose leaf cell extract, and 51-25% of palmitoyl tripeptide-5/dunaliella salina/sodium hyaluronate/provitamin B;

3. the lotion composition having soothing balance skin care effect as claimed in claim 1, wherein: the balance-soothing efficacy composition comprises:

1.5-20.0% of Siberian cunninghamia extract, 1.5-20.0% of desert rose leaf cell extract and 51.5-20.0% of palmitoyl tripeptide-5/Dunaliella salina/sodium hyaluronate/provitamin B.

4. The lotion composition having soothing balance skin care effect as claimed in claim 3, wherein: the balance-soothing efficacy composition comprises:

2.0-15.0% of Siberian cunninghamia extract, 2.0-15.0% of desert rose leaf cell extract and 52.0-15.0% of palmitoyl tripeptide-5/Dunaliella salina/sodium hyaluronate/provitamin B.

5. The lotion composition having soothing balance skin care effect as claimed in claim 1, wherein: the desert rose leaf cell extract adopts a cell culture technology and comprises the following steps:

1) collecting seed cells:

preferably, 2 parts of fresh desert rose leaves are taken, soaked for 20 minutes by using 10-30% sodium hypochlorite disinfectant after being cleaned and disinfected, then washed by using sterile water to remove the residual disinfectant, then the cleaned and disinfected raw materials are put into a crusher, 50mL MS culture medium is added, the crushed raw materials are crushed to obtain slurry, 60-100mg/kg cellulase is added for treatment for 3-5 hours, the slurry is filtered by a 100-micron microporous filter and then is subjected to low-speed centrifugal separation, supernatant is discarded, and seed cells are collected;

2) seed cell culture:

inoculating the seed cells collected in the step 1) into a shake flask containing an MS culture medium, performing shake culture at the pH of 5-6 and the temperature of 25 ℃ at 100r/min for 48 hours, and stopping the culture when the cell count is more than 20000/mL;

3) subculture expansion culture:

inoculating the seed cells cultured in the step 2) into MS culture medium again, adding 5-10mg/L of auxin IAA and 50-100mg/L of pectinase, performing suspension culture in a bioreactor at a stirring speed of 100r/min and a pH of 5-6 at a speed of 0.03m³Introducing sterile oxygen gas/s, culturing in dark for 20-30 days, and stopping culturing when the cell count is above 45000/mL;

4) centrifuging and collecting supernatant to obtain the desert rose leaf cell extract.

6. The lotion composition having soothing balance skin care effect as claimed in claim 1, wherein:

the humectant is selected from one or more of glycerol, propylene glycol, 1, 3-propylene glycol, glycerol acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer, glyceryl polyether-26, hexylene glycol, 1, 2-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, polyethylene glycol-32, urea, allantoin, PEG/PPG-17/6 copolymer, PPG-28-buthyl polyether-35, bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethylsilane, sorbitol and combinations thereof;

the skin conditioner is selected from one or more of honey extract, arginine, lysine, ornithine, sodium lactate, nicotinamide, yeast extract, Hamamelis virginiana extract, Thermus thermophilus fermentation product, rice chaff extract, ammonium glycyrrhizinate, zinc gluconate, caffeine, and biotin;

the thickening agent is selected from one or a combination of acryloyl dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, acryloyl dimethyl taurate/behenyl alcohol polyether-25 methacrylate cross-linked polymer, glycerol acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer, sodium polyacrylate, acrylic acid (ester) copolymer sodium, polyacrylate-13, hydroxyethyl acrylate/acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl acrylate/acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, carbomer, acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer;

the preservative is selected from one or more of methyl hydroxybenzoate, propyl hydroxybenzoate and phenoxyethanol;

the chelating agent is one or more selected from EDTA-disodium, EDTA-tetrasodium and the composition thereof;

the solubilizer is selected from one or more of PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, polysorbate-20 and polysorbate-60;

the pH regulator is selected from one or more of citric acid, sodium citrate, hydroxyethyl piperazine ethane sulfonic acid and a composition thereof.

7. A method of preparing a lotion composition having soothing balance skin care effects according to any one of claims 1 to 6, comprising the steps of:

1) adding water, chelating agent, humectant, part of antiseptic, and pH regulator into water phase pot, stirring and heating to 80-85 deg.C, keeping the temperature and stirring for 20-25 min;

2) adding cooling water, stirring, cooling to 40-45 deg.C, adding the composition with soothing and balancing effects, skin conditioner, solubilizer, thickener, daily essence and antiseptic, adding into emulsifying pot, and stirring for 15-20 min;

3) and continuously stirring and cooling until the temperature is lower than 38 ℃, stopping stirring, and discharging after the detection is qualified.

8. A method of preparing a lotion composition having soothing balance skin care effects as claimed in claim 7, wherein:

the cosmetic water composition is in a solvent dispersion or suspension form, or in the form of emulsified particles, or in a polymer-coated form.

Technical Field

The invention relates to a skin care product and a preparation method thereof, belongs to the technical field of daily chemicals, and particularly relates to a toning lotion composition with the effects of relieving, balancing and protecting skin and a preparation method thereof.

Background

The cosmetic lotion is a skin care product generally used for the purpose of supplying water and moisture to the horny layer of the skin after washing dirt on the skin with a cleanser or the like, and adjusting the physiological action of the skin, plays a role in basic skin care after the beginning, and is an essential part in daily skin care. The toning lotion can play three effects of cleaning skin, moisturizing and balancing and relieving, effectively relieve and condition stressed skin and maintain the steady state of the skin.

With the accelerated pace of life development of society, the skin is stressed when the pressure of life is high. A series of factors such as poor living habits such as staying up at night, spicy and irritating diet, sunshine and wind during commuting, air pollution and the like can unbalance the state of the skin, and various problems such as dryness, wrinkle growth, acne induction, sensitive muscle generation and the like occur. When these problems occur, some soothing conditioning of the skin is required.

In addition, the skin is subject to physical and chemical damage from the outside, light irradiation damage, loss of nutrients and water in the body, and the like. In terms of skin protection, the barrier function and irritation relief of the skin itself are important.

In the current research, although some common moisturizing and relieving components are separately applied to moisturizing cosmetics, the moisturizing and relieving effects are limited, and the effect of cooperatively moisturizing, relieving and balancing skin by applying the combination of the components with the moisturizing, relieving and balancing skin effects to the cosmetic water is not realized.

Therefore, how to develop a safe and effective cosmetic with moisturizing and skin-soothing and balancing effects becomes a difficult point to be solved by the technicians in the cosmetic industry at present.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to provide a toning lotion composition with the effects of relieving, balancing and protecting skin, which can permeate into the deep layer of skin to effectively moisturize, promote the generation of natural moisturizing factors and increase the water content of stratum corneum; can stimulate the renewal of epidermis and the synthesis of collagen, repair the damaged skin and play a role in relieving and balancing the skin.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a method for preparing the lotion composition with skin care effects of soothing balance.

In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:

the toning lotion composition with the effects of relieving, balancing and protecting skin comprises the following raw material components in percentage by weight of the total composition:

1-35% of a balance-soothing efficacy composition comprising: 0.1-30% of Siberian cunninghamia extract, 0.1-30% of desert rose leaf cell extract and 50.1-30% of palmitoyl tripeptide-5/Dunaliella salina/sodium hyaluronate/provitamin B;

5-30% of humectant;

0-30% of a skin conditioning agent;

0-10% of a thickening agent;

0.3-5.0% of preservative;

0.01-2% of a chelating agent;

0.01-1% of a solubilizer;

0.01-1.0% of daily essence;

proper amount of pH regulator and deionized water.

Further, the toning lotion composition with the functions of relieving, balancing and protecting skin is prepared from the following components in percentage by weight based on the total weight of the composition:

a balance-soothing efficacy composition 3.0-30.0% comprising: 1-25% of a taxus asteroides extract, 1-25% of a desert rose leaf cell extract, and 51-25% of palmitoyl tripeptide-5/dunaliella salina/sodium hyaluronate/provitamin B;

further, the soothing balance skin care effect composition comprises the following raw material components:

1.5-20% of Siberian cunninghamia extract, 1.5-20% of desert rose leaf cell extract and 51.5-20% of palmitoyl tripeptide-5/Dunaliella salina/sodium hyaluronate/provitamin B.

Further, the composition with the effect of relieving balance comprises the following raw material components:

2-15% of a taxus asteroides extract, 2-15% of a desert rose leaf cell extract and 5% of palmitoyl tripeptide/dunaliella salina/sodium hyaluronate/provitamin B52-15%.

Further, the toning lotion composition with the functions of relieving, balancing and protecting skin is prepared from the following components in percentage by weight based on the total weight of the composition:

a balance-soothing efficacy composition 6.0-17.0% comprising: 2-5% of a taxus asteroides extract, 2-8% of a desert rose leaf cell extract, and 52-4% of palmitoyl tripeptide-5/dunaliella salina/sodium hyaluronate/provitamin B;

specifically, the desert rose leaf cell extract adopts a cell culture technology, and comprises the following steps:

1) collecting seed cells:

preferably, 2 parts of fresh desert rose leaves are taken, soaked for 20 minutes by using 10-30% sodium hypochlorite disinfectant after being cleaned and disinfected, then washed by using sterile water to remove the residual disinfectant, then the cleaned and disinfected raw materials are put into a crusher, 50mL MS culture medium is added, the crushed raw materials are crushed to obtain slurry, 60-100mg/kg cellulase is added for treatment for 3-5 hours, the slurry is filtered by a 100-micron microporous filter and then is subjected to low-speed centrifugal separation, supernatant is discarded, and seed cells are collected;

2) seed cell culture:

inoculating the seed cells collected in the step 1) into a shake flask containing an MS culture medium, performing shake culture at the pH of 5-6 and the temperature of 25 ℃ at 100r/min for 48 hours, and stopping the culture when the cell count is more than 20000/mL;

3) subculture expansion culture:

inoculating the seed cells cultured in the step 2) into MS culture medium again, adding auxin IAA5-10mg/L and pectinase 50-100mg/L, performing suspension culture in a bioreactor at a stirring speed of 100r/min and a pH of 5-6 at a speed of 0.03m³Introducing sterile oxygen gas/s, culturing in dark for 20-30 days, and stopping culturing when the cell count is above 45000/mL;

4) centrifuging and collecting supernatant and desert rose leaf cell extract.

Specifically, the preparation method of the taxus asteroides extract comprises the following steps:

1) selecting algae: selecting fresh ceratosporum asterioides, removing impurities such as grass sticks, silt and the like attached to the ceratosporum asterioides, soaking in a 75% ethanol solution for 15-30 min, and airing for later use;

2) drying and powdering: drying the spruce asteriscus preprocessed in the step 1) for 36-48 hours in an environment of 50-80 ℃ until the water content in the algae leaves is reduced to below 8%, taking out the dried spruce asteriscus, powdering, and sieving with a sieve of 80-200 meshes to obtain algae powder;

3) foaming and ultrasonic treatment: mixing and stirring the algae powder in the step 2) with water according to a mass ratio of 1:20, soaking for 8 hours to obtain a mixed solution, placing the mixed solution in an ultrasonic cell crusher, and carrying out ultrasonic treatment for 6-8 hours under the condition of 200-500W of power to obtain an algae ultrasonic solution;

4) and (3) enzymolysis and fermentation: adding citric acid into the algae ultrasonic solution obtained in the step 3), adjusting the pH value of the solution to 4.0-6.0, and adding 6 multiplied by 10 into the algae ultrasonic solution⁴～8×10⁴U/L pectase and 0.1X 10⁴～1×10⁴Carrying out enzymolysis on cellulase U at 40-60 ℃ for 3-5 hours; heating the algae ultrasonic solution subjected to enzymolysis to boiling, inactivating enzymes for 5-20 minutes, and cooling to room temperature to obtain an algae enzymolysis solution;

5) filtering, distilling and collecting under reduced pressure: adding 90% ethanol into the algae enzymolysis liquid in the step 4), extracting for 12h at 30 ℃, filtering, taking the filtrate, distilling under reduced pressure, and removing the ethanol in the solution to obtain the asterias amurensis Lutken extract.

Further, the humectant is selected from one or more of glycerin, propylene glycol, 1, 3-propylene glycol, glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer, glyceryl polyether-26, hexylene glycol, 1, 2-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, polyethylene glycol-32, urea, allantoin, PEG/PPG-17/6 copolymer, PPG-28-Butaneth-35, bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethylsilane, sorbitol, and combinations thereof. The content thereof is selected from the range of 5-30%, preferably the range of 10-30%.

The skin conditioner is selected from one or more of honey extract, arginine, lysine, ornithine, sodium lactate, nicotinamide, yeast extract, Hamamelis virginiana extract, Thermus thermophilus fermentation product, rice chaff extract, ammonium glycyrrhizinate, zinc gluconate, caffeine, and biotin. The content thereof is selected from the range of 0.1 to 30%, preferably from the range of 5 to 25%.

The thickening agent is selected from one or a combination of acryloyl dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, acryloyl dimethyl taurate/behenyl alcohol polyether-25 methacrylate cross-linked polymer, glycerol acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer, sodium polyacrylate, acrylic acid (ester) copolymer sodium, polyacrylate-13, hydroxyethyl acrylate/acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl acrylate/acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, carbomer, acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer. The content thereof is selected from the range of 0-10%, preferably from the range of 0.5-8%.

The preservative is selected from one or more of methyl hydroxybenzoate, propyl hydroxybenzoate and phenoxyethanol. The content thereof is selected from the range of 0.3 to 5%, preferably from the range of 0.3 to 1%.

The chelating agent is selected from one or more of EDTA-disodium, EDTA-tetrasodium and combinations thereof. The content thereof is selected from the range of 0.01-2%, preferably from the range of 0.1-0.5%.

The solubilizer is one or more selected from PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, polysorbate-20 and polysorbate-60. The content thereof is selected from the range of 0.01-1%, preferably the range of 0.05-1%.

The pH regulator is selected from one or more of citric acid, sodium citrate, hydroxyethyl piperazine ethane sulfonic acid and a composition thereof.

In addition, the invention also discloses a preparation method of the toning lotion composition with the effects of relieving, balancing and protecting skin, which comprises the following process steps:

1) adding water, chelating agent, humectant, part of antiseptic, and pH regulator into water phase pot, stirring and heating to 80-85 deg.C, keeping the temperature and stirring for 20-25 min;

2) adding cooling water, stirring, cooling to 40-45 deg.C, adding the composition with soothing and balancing effects, skin conditioner, solubilizer, thickener, daily essence and antiseptic, adding into emulsifying pot, and stirring for 15-20 min;

3) and continuously stirring and cooling until the temperature is lower than 38 ℃, stopping stirring, and discharging after the detection is qualified.

Further, the cosmetic water composition with the skin care effect of relieving balance is prepared by dispersing or suspending the cosmetic in a solvent, or is prepared in the form of emulsified particles or polymer coating.

Specifically, the cosmetic with the skin care effect of relieving and balancing the invention is a skin care product, in particular emulsion, essence, cream, eye cream, body lotion, gel and sun block lotion.

By means of the technical scheme, the invention has the following advantages and beneficial technical effects:

1) the skin-care cream contains multiple effective components with the effects of moisturizing, relieving and balancing skin, such as the taxus asteroides extract, the desert rose leaf cell extract and palmitoyl tripeptide-5/dunaliella salina/sodium hyaluronate/provitamin B5, and can relieve and balance skin and maintain skin stability through multiple ways.

2) The moisturizing, relaxing and balancing effect toning lotion composition is selected from a taxus asterias extract, a rosa deserticola leaf cell extract and palmitoyl tripeptide-5/dunaliella salina/sodium hyaluronate/provitamin B5, and through a preferable combination and an efficacy test, the composition proportion is found to be most preferable, so that the moisturizing, relaxing and balancing effect is realized on the skin.

3) In the moisturizing, relieving and balancing effect toning lotion composition, the desert rose leaf cell extract uses a cell culture technology, the activity of plant cells is retained to the maximum extent, and natural lipid inclusion bodies are formed on cell walls of the plant cells, so that the transdermal absorption of effective components is facilitated.

4) According to the innovative moisturizing, relieving and balancing effect lotion, the effective components can permeate into the deep layer of the skin through intercellular lipid, so that the lotion can directly and effectively supplement nutrients to the skin, promote the generation of natural moisturizing factors, efficiently moisturize, improve the roughness of the skin, enhance the elasticity of the skin, promote the synthesis of collagen, improve the repair process of the skin, maintain the dynamic balance of the epidermis, comprehensively improve the triple skin barrier protection function, relieve the skin, enable the skin to be more moist, full and fine, and effectively resist external stimulation. The components of the toning lotion have mutual synergistic effect, so that the effects of safely and effectively moisturizing, relieving and balancing skin are achieved.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a diagram of the mechanism of action of a moisturizing soothing composition;

FIG. 2 shows that the moisturizing soothing composition promotes the expression of moisturizing-related factor genes;

FIG. 3 is the transepidermal water loss rate of skin after lesion stripping using example 1;

figure 4 is the skin colour a value after wound exfoliation using example 1;

FIG. 5 is the skin red blood cell concentration after lesion stripping using example 1;

FIG. 6 is a comparison of skin image acquisition for partial subject lesion stripping and control areas;

FIG. 7 is the transepidermal water loss rate of skin after lesion stripping using example 1 and comparative examples 1-6;

fig. 8 shows the skin color a values after wound exfoliation using example 1 and comparative examples 1-6.

Detailed Description

The invention discloses a toning lotion composition with functions of relieving balance and protecting skin, which contains various components with the functions of moisturizing, relieving balance and preparation method thereof. The moisturizing, soothing, balancing and skin-care-efficacy toning lotion composition comprises the following raw material components:

1.0-35.0% of moisturizing, relieving and balancing efficacy composition, 5-30% of humectant, 0-30% of skin conditioner, 0-10% of thickening agent, 0.3-5% of preservative, 0.01-2% of chelating agent, 0.01-1% of solubilizer, 0.01-1.0% of daily essence, a proper amount of pH regulator and the balance of deionized water.

The composition with the effects of moisturizing, relieving and balancing is prepared by mixing a taxus asterism extract, a rosa deserticola leaf cell extract and palmitoyl tripeptide-5/dunaliella salina/sodium hyaluronate/provitamin B5.

Extract of spruce asterism

The astragalan extract is rich in sulfated polysaccharide, and can be used for improving skin texture, filling moisture into dry skin, and making skin more elastic and tender. Specifically, the taxus asteroides extract can induce and activate a skin multifunctional barrier, regulate the skin moisture degree, control the skin barrier permeability, reduce the skin moisture loss, supplement water and preserve moisture; promoting, regulating and improving the repair process of skin, and maintaining the dynamic balance of epidermis; the triple skin barrier protection function is comprehensively improved; has important antioxidant and toxin expelling potential, can resist various stress environments, and constructs a strong antioxidant barrier.

The preparation method comprises the following steps:

1) selecting algae: selecting fresh ceratosporum asterioides, removing impurities such as grass sticks, silt and the like attached to the ceratosporum asterioides, soaking in a 75% ethanol solution for 15-30 min, and airing for later use;

2) drying and powdering: drying the spruce asteriscus preprocessed in the step 1) for 36-48 hours in an environment of 50-80 ℃ until the water content in the algae leaves is reduced to below 8%, taking out the dried spruce asteriscus, powdering, and sieving with a sieve of 80-200 meshes to obtain algae powder;

3) foaming and ultrasonic treatment: mixing the algae powder obtained in the step 2) with water according to the proportion of 1:20, uniformly mixing and stirring, soaking for 8 hours to obtain a mixed solution, placing the mixed solution in an ultrasonic cell crusher, and carrying out ultrasonic treatment for 6-8 hours under the condition of 200-500W of power to obtain an ultrasonic solution of the ceratospora asteroides;

4) and (3) enzymolysis and fermentation: adding citric acid into the algae ultrasonic solution obtained in the step 3), adjusting the pH value of the solution to 4.0-6.0, and adding 6 multiplied by 10 into the algae ultrasonic solution⁴～8×10⁴U/L pectase and 0.1X 10⁴～1×10⁴Carrying out enzymolysis on cellulase U at 40-60 ℃ for 3-5 hours; heating the algae ultrasonic solution subjected to enzymolysis to boiling, inactivating enzymes for 5-20 minutes, and cooling to room temperature to obtain an algae enzymolysis solution;

5) filtering, distilling and collecting under reduced pressure: adding 90% ethanol into the algae enzymolysis liquid in the step 4), extracting for 12h at 30 ℃, filtering, taking the filtrate, distilling under reduced pressure, and removing the ethanol in the solution to obtain the asterias amurensis Lutken extract.

② desert rose leaf cell extract

Rosa desertorum, also known as Tianbao flower, belongs to Apocynaceae, is originally produced in south of east Africa to Arabian peninsula, and is distributed in North Africa countries such as Tuomegas, Aly and Lia, Morocco, etc. Desert rose prefers high temperature drying and sunny environment, and is resistant to severe summer heat and drought. The desert rose flower is shaped like a trumpet, is rose red and is very gorgeous. The compound essence extracted from the leaves of the rosa deserticola can help the skin deeply and durably moisturize, stimulate the natural moisturizing potential of the skin and resist the influence of environmental stress and aging.

The desert rose leaf cell extract acts on three layers to promote the water retention capacity of the skin again: promote the cell renewal of the epidermal layer, help to retain water molecules and strengthen the water system. Improve and increase the synthesis of glycosaminoglycan in the dermis. Improve the synthesis of hyaluronic acid and ensure that water can be smoothly transported from the dermis layer to the epidermis layer. The generation of free radicals can be reduced. Inhibiting cell dysfunction caused by free radicals, including skin dehydration, etc. The plant cell culture technology is used for extracting the desert rose leaf cells, so that the cell activity is retained to the maximum extent, and a natural lipid inclusion is formed, thereby being more beneficial to the absorption and permeation of skin.

The preparation method comprises the following steps:

1) collecting seed cells:

preferably, 2 parts of fresh desert rose leaves are taken, soaked for 20 minutes by using 10-30% sodium hypochlorite disinfectant after being cleaned and disinfected, then washed by using sterile water to remove the residual disinfectant, then the cleaned and disinfected raw materials are put into a crusher, 50mL MS culture medium is added, the crushed raw materials are crushed to obtain slurry, 60-100mg/kg cellulase is added for treatment for 3-5 hours, the slurry is filtered by a 100-micron microporous filter and then is subjected to low-speed centrifugal separation, supernatant is discarded, and seed cells are collected;

2) seed cell culture:

inoculating the seed cells collected in the step 1) into a shake flask containing an MS culture medium, performing shake culture at the pH of 5-6 and the temperature of 25 ℃ at 100r/min for 48 hours, and stopping the culture when the cell count is more than 20000/mL;

3) subculture expansion culture:

inoculating the seed cells cultured in the step 2) into MS culture medium again, adding auxin IAA5-10mg/L and pectinase 50-100mg/L, performing suspension culture in a bioreactor at a stirring speed of 100r/min and a pH of 5-6 at a speed of 0.03m³Introducing sterile oxygen gas/s, culturing in dark for 20-30 days, and stopping culturing when the cell count is above 45000/mL;

4) centrifuging and collecting supernatant and desert rose leaf cell extract.

③ palmitoyl tripeptide-5/dunaliella salina/sodium hyaluronate/provitamin B5

Palmitoyl tripeptide-5 promotes skin cell growth, inhibits oxygen radicals and hydroxyl radicals, promotes the synthesis of matrix proteins, particularly collagen, and may also increase the production of elastin, hyaluronic acid, glycosaminoglycans, and fibronectin. Dunaliella salina is a species of green algae, a unicellular organism, which can survive in extremely hot and high salinity conditions. As a way of adapting itself to extreme conditions, dunaliella cells can produce special materials to help them survive. This particular material also helps to rejuvenate human skin, improves skin metabolism, infuses vital nutrients, keeps the skin moist, protects the skin from damage caused by environmental factors (radiation and high temperature), and slows down skin aging. The sodium hyaluronate is a biological substance inherent to the skin, and the exogenous sodium hyaluronate supplements endogenous sodium hyaluronate of the skin, can permeate into the epidermal layer of the skin and promote the supply of skin nutrition. Meanwhile, the composition has the effects of promoting the proliferation and differentiation of epidermal cells and removing oxygen free radicals, and can promote the regeneration of the skin at the injured part and repair the damaged skin. In addition, the skin care product has strong smoothness and film-forming property, and can form a layer of film on the surface of skin, so that the skin can generate good smoothness and moisture, and the skin can be protected. Provitamin B5 is also called panthenol, can easily penetrate into stratum corneum, has strong moisturizing effect, and is helpful for relieving skin discomfort and pruritus and stimulating epidermal cell growth.

Palmitoyl tripeptide-5/dunaliella salina/sodium hyaluronate/provitamin B5 is a high-quality active mixture formed by combining synthetic peptide and high-efficiency skin bioactive components, can form a skin barrier to effectively resist external stimulation, simultaneously stimulates epidermal renewal and collagen synthesis, assists in repairing the function of skin tissues, effectively moisturizes and soothes the skin, and maintains a healthy skin state.

Specifically, the mass ratio of the mixture is (2-5): (1-3): 3-6): 1-4, and the mixture is obtained by mixing 2-5 parts by mass of palmitoyl tripeptide-5, 1-3 parts by mass of dunaliella salina extract, 3-6 parts by mass of sodium hyaluronate, 1-4 parts by mass of provitamin B5, 0.2 part by mass of phenoxyethanol, 0.8 part by mass of sodium benzoate, 1 part by mass of potassium sorbate and 0.5 part by mass of ethylhexylglycerin, and homogenizing at 35 ℃ for 30min at 1000 r/min.

The moisturizing, soothing and balancing effect toning lotion composition consists of the taxus asterias extract, the rosa deserticola leaf cell extract and palmitoyl tripeptide-5/dunaliella salina/sodium hyaluronate/provitamin B5, relieves the dry state of the skin and improves the quality of the dermis by endogenous and exogenous moisturizing and moisturizing effects of the composition, and the moisturizing effect mechanism diagram is shown in figure 1.

The components of the composition act synergistically to promote the gene expression of moisturizing related factors (fig. 2, control is cosmetic water comprising 94.5% water, 5.0% propylene glycol and 0.5% ethylene glycol phenyl ether), such as SPT gene, AQP3 gene and HAS3 gene. Wherein, the SPT gene regulates the synthesis of serine palmitoyltransferase, the Serine Palmitoyltransferase (SPT) can synthesize ceramide, and the ceramide of sphingolipid in skin accounts for about half of the total weight of the lipid of stratum corneum, participates in the formation of epidermal barrier function, and forms a barrier for preventing water loss; AQP3 gene encodes skin aquaporin, controls the water in and out of skin, can transport water and non-polar small molecules in skin to epidermis to form a barrier layer, and improves the moisture-keeping capacity of skin; the HAS3 gene is located in the q22.1 band of human chromosome 16 and encodes one of the genes for hyaluronan synthase. The hyaluronic acid synthase is an extremely important source for synthesizing hyaluronic acid in human life activities, the hyaluronic acid has a good moisturizing effect, and the hyaluronic acid mainly exists in a dermis layer in a colloid form and is mainly responsible for storing water, so that the skin looks plump and has high elasticity.

In conclusion, the moisturizing, soothing and balancing-effect lotion composition disclosed by the invention is efficient in moisturizing, promotes skin nutrition supply, forms a skin protection barrier, effectively resists the damage of the external environment to the skin, simultaneously repairs the damaged skin, and has the effects of soothing and balancing the skin.

The present invention is illustrated by the following examples, which are provided for the purpose of further illustration only and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention. Other insubstantial modifications and adaptations of the present invention can be made without departing from the scope of the present invention.

Unless otherwise specified, the following percentages (%) are mass percentages. All the raw material components of the invention are commercial products.

Examples 1 to 4

A cosmetic water composition with the effects of moisturizing, relieving, balancing and caring skin, the raw material components of examples 1-4 have the proportion contents shown in the following table 1.

Table 1 examples 1 to 4 raw material composition ratios (unit: mass%)

The preparation method of the toning lotion with the effects of relieving, balancing and protecting skin of the embodiments 1 to 4 of the invention can be expressed as follows:

1) adding water, allantoin, EDTA-disodium, citric acid, sodium citrate, glyceryl polyether-26, glycerol, glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer, 1, 3-propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol-32, and methyl hydroxybenzoate into water phase pot, stirring and heating to 80-85 deg.C, maintaining the temperature and stirring for 20-25 min;

2) adding cooling water, stirring, cooling to 40-45 deg.C, adding the composition with effect of relieving balance, testa oryzae extract, Hamamelis virginiana extract, polysorbate-20, sodium polyacrylate, essence, and phenoxyethanol, adding into emulsifying pot, and stirring for 15-20 min;

3) and continuously stirring and cooling until the temperature is lower than 38 ℃, stopping stirring, and discharging after the detection is qualified.

Test example for Effect verification

Short-acting moisturizing effect test 1

1. The tester: 33 healthy persons (20-35 years old), women; the example 1 formulation was tried.

2. Testing parts: the inner side of the forearm; the two forearms are normal skin and have no uncomfortable symptoms such as skin damage, redness, scurf and the like;

3. the test method comprises the following steps: the inner forearm of each of the two hands of the subject was marked with 1 test area of 3cm × 3cm, 1 area was used as a test sample, 1 area was used as a blank control area, and 2 test areas were peeled off with an adhesive tape 15 times to damage the skin barrier (as indicated by an increase in the transepidermal water loss value of the skin), and the sample area was used in example 1.

4. Testing an instrument: skin water loss testerTM300。

5. Testing indexes are as follows: the water loss rate of the skin through the epidermis.

The change rate of the percutaneous water loss is (the percutaneous water loss rate after the trial-the percutaneous water loss rate before the trial)/the percutaneous water loss rate before the trial.

6. The test results are shown in fig. 3 and table 2 below:

TABLE 2 Perepidermal Water loss rate of skin after use of example 1

As seen from the results of fig. 3 and table 2, the following results were obtained in comparison with the results immediately after the damage peeling: the water loss rate of the skin in a sample area through the epidermis is obviously reduced by 25.05 percent and the water loss rate of the skin in a control area is reduced by 11.14 percent 10min after the application; after 1 day of use, the transepidermal water loss rate of the skin in the sample area is remarkably reduced by 27.83 percent, and the transepidermal water loss rate of the skin in the control area is reduced by 26.53 percent; after 3 days of use, the transepidermal water loss rate of the skin in the sample area is remarkably reduced by 42.86 percent, and the transepidermal water loss rate of the skin in the control area is reduced by 36.77 percent; after 7 days of use, the skin of the sample area and the skin of the control area both return to the normal moisturizing level, the transepidermal water loss rate of the sample area is remarkably reduced by 37.69%, and the transepidermal water loss rate of the control area is reduced by 37.10%.

The skin has a reduced rate of percutaneous water loss after use of example 1. The reduction effect is most obvious when the lotion is taken for 10min, which shows that the lotion has a short-acting instant moisturizing effect, and can maintain the reduction of the transdermal water loss rate within 3 days, which shows that the lotion has relatively long-lasting moisturizing effect. As can be seen from the sample results, example 1 had a short moisturizing effect within 3 days of use, the damaged site had recovered within 7 days, and the control and sample data were close.

The toning lotion composition has a relatively obvious short-acting moisturizing effect.

Test for soothing efficacy example 2

1. The tester: 33 healthy persons (20-35 years old), women; the example 1 formulation was tried. 2. Testing parts: the inner side of the forearm; the two forearms are normal skin and have no uncomfortable symptoms such as skin damage, redness, scurf and the like;

3. the test method comprises the following steps: the subject was allowed to rest for 20min at a temperature of 21 + -1 deg.C and a relative humidity of 50 + -5% RH, and then the experimenter measured the concentration of red blood cells and the color of the skin on the inner side of the forearm.

The experimenter peeled off 15 times with the adhesive tape in each of the 2 test areas, and then the experimenter measured the red blood cell concentration and the skin color of the skin on the inner side of the forearm of the subject. The experimenter measured the concentration of red blood cells in the medial forearm skin immediately after applying the test sample to the area of sample application, and the control area was blank.

The experimenter measures the concentration of red blood cells in the inner skin of the forearm 3min after use, 6min after use, 8min after use, 10min after use, 30min after use, 60min after use and 120min after use, and the skin color is tested 10min after use.

After 1 day, 3 days, and 7 days of use, the subjects had a return visit, and after wiping the forearms with dry facial tissue, the subjects had a rest for 20min in an environment of temperature 21 ± 1 ℃ and relative humidity 50 ± 5% RH, and the experimenter measured the skin color of the inner side of the forearms.

4. Testing an instrument: skin color testerCL 400; skin red blood cell meter TiVi 700.

5. Testing indexes are as follows: the higher the value of a, the redder the skin color is indicated; skin red blood cell concentration. The larger the measurement, the higher the skin red blood cell concentration.

6. The test results are shown in FIGS. 4-6 and tables 3-4 below:

table 3 skin colour a values after use of example 1

Skin color a value	Immediately after peeling damage	After 10min	After 1 day of use	After 3 days of use	After 7 days of use
						Sample (I)	8.97	8.32	7.03	6.84	7.41
Control	8.92	8.60	7.15	6.79	7.48

Table 4 skin red blood cell concentration after using example 1

As shown in fig. 4 and table 3, the skin color a is compared to the value immediately after the lesion has been peeled off: the skin color a value of the sample area is significantly reduced by 7.26% and the control area is reduced by 3.58% 10min after use; after 1 day of use, the skin color a value of the sample area was significantly reduced by 21.59%, and the skin color a value of the control area was significantly reduced by 19.86%; after 3 days of use, the skin color a value of the sample area was significantly reduced by 23.70%, and the skin color a value of the control area was significantly reduced by 23.91%; after 7 days of use, the skin color a values in the sample area were significantly reduced by 17.32%, and the control area by 16.17%.

The data show that the skin color recovery effect in the area of the peeled damage is obvious immediately after using example 1, and the damage repairing rate of example 1 is fast compared with that of the control group. During use, the skin color in the damaged area was smaller than that in the control area, indicating that the example had a significant rapid fading effect.

As shown in fig. 5 and table 4, the skin red blood cell concentration immediately after the lesion exfoliation: immediately after use, the concentration of skin red blood cells in a sample area is remarkably increased by 2.42 percent, and the concentration of skin red blood cells in a control area is remarkably increased by 1.76 percent; 3min after the application, the concentration of skin red blood cells in a sample area is remarkably increased by 2.27 percent, and the concentration of skin red blood cells in a control area is remarkably increased by 0.93 percent; the concentration of skin red blood cells in a sample area is obviously increased by 1.70 percent 6min after the application, and the concentration of skin red blood cells in a control area is not obviously increased by 0.40 percent; at 8min after use, the concentration of skin red blood cells in a sample area is remarkably increased by 1.54 percent, and the concentration of skin red blood cells in a control area is not remarkably increased by 0.23 percent; 10min after the application, the concentration of skin red blood cells in a sample area is not obviously increased by 0.66 percent, and the concentration of skin red blood cells in a control area is not obviously reduced by 0.70 percent; 30min after the application, the concentration of skin red blood cells in a sample area is not obviously reduced by 1.12 percent, and the concentration of skin red blood cells in a control area is obviously reduced by 1.86 percent; 60min after the application, the concentration of skin red blood cells in a sample area is obviously reduced by 3.02 percent, and the concentration of skin red blood cells in a control area is obviously reduced by 3.06 percent; at 120min after use, the skin red blood cell concentration in the sample area was significantly reduced by 4.36%, and the control area was significantly reduced by 3.61%.

The data show that at 120min after application of example 1 of the present invention, the skin red blood cell concentration returns to the red blood cell concentration level in the control area, which is macroscopically manifested as a regression of the red swelling in the damaged area (fig. 6).

The above data and fig. 6 illustrate that the lotion of the present invention has significant skin-repairing and soothing effects.

Safety test example 3

1. The number of tested persons: 30 healthy people, 13 men and 17 women; the age range is 20-45 years.

2. The test method comprises the following steps: the selection area is not more than 50mm²And (g) about 0.020 to 0.025mL (g) of a test substance in a closed patch test method in a suitable patch tester having a depth of about 1 mm. The patch tester is applied to the curved side of the forearm of the subject, the subject is removed 24 hours later, the skin reaction is observed 0.5 hour, 24 hours and 48 hours after the removal, and the result is recorded according to the skin reaction grading standard in the technical Specification for cosmetic safety 2015.

3. The evaluation criteria are as follows in table 5:

TABLE 5 grading Standard of adverse skin reactions

The results show that: the result of the human skin patch experiment shows that the score grades of 0.5h, 24h and 48h of 3 observation time points after 30 subjects remove the patch are all 0, namely 0 of 30 subjects have positive reaction, and the subject does not cause adverse skin reaction to the subjects in the batch according to the regulation in technical Specification for cosmetic safety (2015 edition).

Synergistic test example 4

Comparative examples 1 to 6

The raw material formulation of a moisturizing and soothing lotion composition is shown in table 6 below.

TABLE 6 raw material composition ratio (% by mass) of comparative examples 1 to 6

The manufacturing process of the lotions with moisturizing and soothing effects of comparative examples 1 to 6 can be expressed as follows:

1) adding water, allantoin, EDTA-disodium, citric acid, sodium citrate, glyceryl polyether-26, glycerol, glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer, 1, 3-propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol-32, and methyl hydroxybenzoate into water phase pot, stirring and heating to 80-85 deg.C, maintaining the temperature and stirring for 20-25 min;

2) boiling cooling water, stirring, cooling to 40-45 deg.C, adding the composition with effects of keeping moisture, relieving balance, rice chaff extract, Hamamelis virginiana extract, polysorbate-20, sodium polyacrylate, essence, and phenoxyethanol, adding into emulsifying pot, and stirring for 15-20 min;

3) and continuously stirring and cooling until the temperature is lower than 38 ℃, stopping stirring, and discharging after the detection is qualified.

The moisturizing effect test and the soothing effect test were performed on example 1 in table 1 and comparative examples 1 to 6 in table 6, and the test results are shown in fig. 7 and 8, in which the control is a blank control.

As can be seen from fig. 7, the decrease in the transdermal water loss rate of the skin is ranked as: example 1> comparative example 3>1>2>4>6> 5;

the soothing effect test was performed on example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 6, and the test results are shown in fig. 8:

after 10min of use, the skin color a value decrease was ranked by size as: example 1> comparative example 3>1>2>4>6> 5.

In summary, the moisturizing and soothing compound has the effects of remarkably moisturizing, soothing and balancing skin through the synergistic effect of the components, and has more remarkable moisturizing and soothing effects than the moisturizing and soothing effects of one or two of the components alone.

The above description is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, and is not intended to limit the present invention in any way, so that any simple modification, equivalent change and modification made to the above embodiment according to the technical spirit of the present invention are within the scope of the technical solution of the present invention.