阅读说明：本技术 用于增亮或增白角蛋白材料的组合物 (Composition for lightening or whitening keratin materials ) 是由 巫珊 X·王 M·陶 C·刘 于 2018-12-25 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明提供呈水包油分散体形式的用于增亮或增白角蛋白材料的组合物,其包含分散在水相中的油相,并且包含(i)至少一种选自羟基化二苯基甲烷衍生物的皮肤增亮或增白活性成分；(ii)至少一种选自甘油的C4-C24脂肪酸酯的油；和(v)至少一种亲水增稠剂,其选自由具有烯键式不饱和基团且具有磺基的单体和具有烯键式不饱和基团而没有磺基的其它单体获得的共聚物。本发明还涉及用于增亮或增白角蛋白材料(尤其人的皮肤)的美容方法。(The present invention provides a composition for lightening or whitening keratin materials in the form of an oil-in-water dispersion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase and comprising (i) at least one skin lightening or whitening active ingredient selected from hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivatives; (ii) at least one oil selected from the group consisting of C4-C24 fatty acid esters of glycerol; and (v) at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from copolymers obtained from monomers having ethylenically unsaturated groups and having sulfo groups and other monomers having ethylenically unsaturated groups and no sulfo groups. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for lightening or whitening keratin materials, in particular human skin.)

1. Composition for lightening or whitening keratin materials in the form of an emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase and comprising:

(i) at least one white particle;

(ii) at least one nonionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan;

(iii) at least one hydrophilic thickening polymer selected from copolymers of at least one monomer (a) selected from carboxylic acids having alpha, beta-ethylenically unsaturated groups or esters thereof and at least one monomer (b) having an ethylenically unsaturated group comprising a hydrophobic group, and polymers comprising at least one monomer having a sulfo group and mixtures thereof;

(iv) at least one skin lightening or whitening active ingredient selected from flavonoids; and

(v) at least one hydrotrope.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the white particles are selected from the group consisting of boron nitride, silica, pearls, mica, synthetic mica, mica-based nacreous pigment particles; composite particles comprising titanium dioxide and a substrate selected from the group consisting of alumina, silica, barium sulfate, glass, mica, and synthetic mica; or mixtures thereof.

3. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the white particles are present in the composition in an amount in the range of from 0.1 to 10 wt.%, preferably from 0.5 to 5 wt.%, more preferably from 1 to 3 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the non-ionic surfactant is selected from polysorbate 20, polysorbate 65, polysorbate 80, polysorbate 85, PEG-5 sorbitan isostearate, PEG-20 sorbitan triisostearate, PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate, PEG-40 sorbitan heptaoleate, PEG-20 sorbitan tetraoleate, and PEG-20 sorbitan trioleate.

5. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the non-ionic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt.% to 3 wt.%, preferably from 0.05 wt.% to 1 wt.%, and more preferably from 0.1 wt.% to 0.5 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the hydrophilic thickening polymer is selected from the group consisting of:

copolymers of the following monomers:

at least one monomer of the following formula (1):

(1)

wherein R is₁Represents H or CH₃Or C₂H₅I.e. acrylic, methacrylic or ethacrylic acid monomers, and

at least one unsaturated carboxylic acid (C)₁₀-C₃₀) An alkyl ester type monomer corresponding to a monomer of the following formula (2):

(2)

wherein R is₂Represents H or CH₃Or C₂H₅(i.e., acrylate, methacrylate or ethacrylate units) and preferably H (acrylate units) or CH₃(methacrylate ester unit), and R₃Is represented by C₁₀-C₃₀Alkyl and preferably C₁₂-C₂₂Alkyl radicals, and

comprising a compound selected from (meth) acrylamido (C)₁-C₂₂) Polymers of monomers of alkylsulfonic acids and also of partially or completely neutralized forms thereof.

7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the hydrophilic thickening polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 5 wt.%, preferably from 0.2 to 5 wt.% and more preferably from 0.5 to 3 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the flavonoid is selected from the group consisting of chalcones, flavones, flavanones, flavanols, flavonols, dihydroflavonols, isoflavonoids, neoflavonoids, catechins, anthocyanidins, and tannins.

9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the flavonoid is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 2 wt.%, preferably from 0.1 to 1 wt.%, more preferably from 0.1 to 0.5 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the hydrotrope is selected from the group consisting of oxothiazolidinecarboxylic acid; vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof, preferably niacinamide; xanthine bases, preferably caffeine; camphorbenzammonium methylsulfate, ellagic acid, hydroxyphenoxypropionic acid, diethyl 2, 4-pyridinedicarboxylate, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, ferulic acid, salicylic acid, phloretin, acetyltrifluoromethylphenylvalylglycine, resveratrol, apigenin, prasterone, benzophenone-3, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, octanoylsalicylic acid, ethylhexyl salicylate; and jasmonic acid derivatives, preferably sodium tetrahydrojasmonate.

11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the hydrotrope is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt.% to 10 wt.%, preferably from 0.5 wt.% to 8 wt.%, more preferably from 1 wt.% to 5 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, further comprising a hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivative selected from those of the following formula (4) as a skin lightening or whitening ingredient:

(4)

wherein:

R₁selected from the group consisting of a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, -an OH group and a halogen,

R₂selected from the group consisting of a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, and a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain containing 2 to 5 carbon atoms,

R₃selected from methyl or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms,

R₄and R₅Independently of one another, from a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, -an OH group or a halogen.

13. Composition for lightening or whitening keratin materials in the form of an emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase and comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

(i)1 to 3 wt.% of at least one white particle selected from boron nitride, silica, pearls, mica, synthetic mica, mica-based nacreous pigment particles; composite particles comprising titanium dioxide and a substrate selected from the group consisting of alumina, silica, barium sulfate, glass, mica, and synthetic mica; or mixtures thereof;

(ii) 0.1 to 0.5 wt.% of at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from polysorbate 20, polysorbate 80, polysorbate 65, polysorbate 85, PEG-5 sorbitan isostearate, PEG-20 sorbitan triisostearate, PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate, PEG-40 sorbitan heptaoleate, PEG-20 sorbitan tetraoleate, and PEG-20 sorbitan trioleate;

(iii) 0.5 to 3 wt.% of at least one hydrophilic thickening polymer selected from the group consisting of acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, and a crosslinked anionic copolymer of acrylamide or methacrylamide with 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid;

(iv) as skin lightening or whitening active ingredients:

0.1 to 0.5 wt.% of at least one flavone; and

0.1 to 0.5 wt.% of at least one hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivative selected from those of the following formula (4):

(4)

wherein:

-R₁、R₂、R₄and R₅Represents a hydrogen atom;

-R₃is methyl;

-the OH groups are located in the ortho and para positions with respect to the bond formed by the carbon linking the two aromatic nuclei to each other; and

(v)1 to 5 wt.% of at least one hydrotrope: oxothiazolidinecarboxylic acid; vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof, preferably niacinamide; xanthine bases, preferably caffeine; camphorbenzazapine methylsulfate, ellagic acid, hydroxyphenoxypropionic acid, diethyl 2, 4-pyridinedicarboxylate, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, ferulic acid, salicylic acid, phloretin, acetyltrifluoromethylphenylvalylglycine, resveratrol, 4-butylresorcinol, apigenin, phenethylresorcinol, prasterone, benzophenone-3, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, octanoylsalicylic acid, ethylhexyl salicylate; and jasmonic acid derivatives, preferably sodium tetrahydrojasmonate.

14. Cosmetic process for lightening or whitening keratin materials, in particular human skin, comprising the step of applying to the keratin materials a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13.

Technical Field

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition for lightening or whitening keratin materials, in particular human skin.

Background

Human skin color depends on various factors, and in particular on the season, race, and gender of the year; it is determined primarily by the nature and concentration of melanin produced by melanocytes. Melanocytes are specialized cells that synthesize melanin by means of specific organelles (melanosomes). Furthermore, at various stages in their life, certain people develop dark and/or colored spots on the skin and more particularly on the hands, which lead to inhomogeneities in the skin.

For various reasons, in particular those linked to a higher comfort of use (softness, emolliency, etc.), the compositions currently used for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, are generally in the form of an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion consisting of an aqueous-dispersed continuous phase and an oily-dispersed discontinuous phase; or in the form of a water-in-oil (W/O) type emulsion consisting of an oily dispersible continuous phase and an aqueous dispersible discontinuous phase.

O/W emulsions are the most sought after emulsions in the cosmetic field, since they comprise an aqueous phase as the external phase, which makes them have a fresher, less greasy and lighter feel when applied to the skin than W/O emulsions.

However, due to their natural characteristics, conventional oil-in-water emulsions are not entirely satisfactory, especially in terms of lightening or whitening the skin instantly and for a long time, while at the same time not affecting the comfort of use.

Efforts have been made to incorporate silicone, styrene-type copolymers with pigments and whitening actives in oil-in-water emulsions. However, the inventors have found that it is difficult to obtain a stable composition having a good lightening or whitening effect on the skin (i.e. immediate and long-term lightening or whitening).

Efforts have also been made to incorporate whitening pigments into oil-in-water emulsions. Unfortunately, such pigments often negatively impact the stability of the emulsion, thereby somewhat complicating the manufacture of the emulsion.

Thus, there is a need for compositions formulated to overcome the difficulties mentioned above.

In particular, there is a need to formulate compositions in the form of emulsions comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, with improved lightening or whitening of keratin materials, while maintaining good comfort in use.

More particularly, there is a need to formulate such compositions that are stable over time.

Disclosure of Invention

The inventors have found that such a need can be met by the present invention.

Thus, according to one aspect, the present invention relates to a composition for lightening or whitening keratin materials in the form of an emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase and comprising:

(i) at least one white particle;

(ii) at least one nonionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan;

(iii) at least one hydrophilic thickening polymer selected from copolymers of at least one monomer (a) selected from carboxylic acids having alpha, beta-ethylenically unsaturated groups or esters thereof and at least one monomer (b) having an ethylenically unsaturated group comprising a hydrophobic group, and polymers comprising at least one monomer having a sulfo group and mixtures thereof;

(iv) at least one skin lightening or whitening active ingredient selected from flavonoids; and

(v) at least one hydrotrope.

The composition according to the invention is advantageous in several respects.

Firstly, the compositions according to the invention have a lightening or whitening effect on keratin materials, in particular human skin.

In particular, the "lightening and whitening effect" according to the invention refers to the immediate and long-term lightening or whitening of keratin materials.

In addition, the compositions of the present invention are stable over time.

The emulsion is stable if no changes in its macroscopic or microscopic appearance and its physicochemical properties (droplet size, pH, viscosity) are observed after storage at various temperatures (T =4 ℃, room temperature, 40 ℃ and 45 ℃) for a duration of 2 months.

According to another aspect, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for lightening or whitening keratin materials, in particular human skin, comprising the step of applying to the keratin materials a composition according to the invention.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratin material" is intended to cover the skin, mucous membranes (e.g. lips), nails of humans. Human skin, especially facial skin, is most particularly contemplated according to the present invention.

Detailed Description

Hereinafter and unless otherwise indicated, the upper and lower limits of the range of values are included in the range, especially in the expressions "between … …" and "range from … … to … …".

Further, the expression "at least one kind" used in the present specification is equivalent to the expression "one kind or more kinds.

Throughout this application, the term "comprising" should be interpreted as covering all the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses embodiments in which no features other than those specifically mentioned are present (i.e., "consisting of … …").

According to one aspect, the present invention relates to a composition for lightening or whitening keratin materials in the form of an emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase and comprising:

(i) at least one white particle;

(ii) at least one nonionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan;

(iii) at least one hydrophilic thickening polymer selected from copolymers of at least one monomer (a) selected from carboxylic acids having alpha, beta-ethylenically unsaturated groups or esters thereof and at least one monomer (b) having an ethylenically unsaturated group comprising a hydrophobic group, and polymers comprising at least one monomer having a sulfo group and mixtures thereof;

(iv) at least one skin lightening or whitening active ingredient selected from flavonoids; and

(v) at least one hydrotrope.

White particles

The term "white" is intended to mean particles having a white color and its derivatives (off-white, snow-white, etc.) as opposed to primary and derivatives.

In some embodiments, the white particles used are inorganic particles.

In particular, the white particles have a brightness value L in the CIELab76 system close to 100.

Preferably, the white particles are characterized by 0.3 μm < D50<40 μm.

The volume mean size (D50) is a parameter for the Particle size distribution, meaning the maximum Particle diameter below which 50% of the sample volume is present (see "A Basic Guide To Particle Characterization", page 10, published 2012 by Malvern Instruments Limited).

The volume average size of the particles (D50) can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer, such as a MasterSizer 3000 machine from Malvern. The data were processed based on mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine the "effective" particle size in the case of non-spherical particles. This theory is described in particular in the publication "Light Scattering by Small Particles", chapter 9 and 10 (Wiley, New York, 1957) by Vande Hulst, h.c.

The white particles according to the invention have a continuous effect, which is controlled by the resolving power of the eye. Since the capacity is about 40 μm, particles having a volume mean size (D50) of less than 40 μm, preferably less than 25 μm and even still better less than or equal to 6 μm are considered. However, it is ensured that particles with a D50 of more than 0.3 μm and preferably 0.5 μm are taken so that there is not too great a loss of opacity, which is extremely detrimental to the desired effect.

Thus, the composition of the invention preferably comprises at least white particles having a volume size (D50) of less than 40 μm, preferably between 0.3 μm and 25 μm, and still better between 0.3 μm and 6 μm or even between 0.5 μm and 3 μm.

The particles may be composed of one material or may be a composite material. For example, these particles may be selected from boron nitride, silica, pearls, mica, synthetic mica, mica-based pearl pigment particles; composite particles comprising titanium dioxide and a substrate selected from the group consisting of alumina, silica, barium sulfate, glass, mica, and synthetic mica; or mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the particles are boron nitride particles.

According to another embodiment, the particles are composite particles comprising titanium dioxide and an alumina substrate.

According to another embodiment, the particle is a composite particle comprising titanium dioxide and a mica substrate.

The white particles are advantageously boron nitride particles, preferably having a volume mean size of 0.3-6 μm.

Preferably, the white particles according to the invention have an average refractive index between 1.4 and 2.2. This is because if the particles have a refractive index exceeding 2.2, the opacity of the composition is too high, and if the refractive index is lower than 1.4, the brightening effect is insufficient. The average refractive index is defined as the sum of the refractive indices weighted by the weight content in the particles.

As examples of composite particles, mention may be made of, for example, covering with TiO₂(40%) mica (60%) platelets with an average refractive index of 1.9(0.6 × 1.5+0.4 × 2.5); the average refractive index of the titanium oxide (40%) inclusions in the alumina (60%) matrix was 1.96(0.6 × 1.6+0.4 × 2.5).

The following is a table of the refractive indices used:

mica	1.4-1.7
		Bismuth oxychloride	2.15
Fe3O4	2.4
		TiO2(anatase)	2.5
TiO2(rutile)	2.7
		Boron nitride	1.74
Alumina (amorphous)	1.6

Table 1:examples of refractive indices of various materials

As examples of particles, mention may be made of boron nitride particles, such as PUHP1030L from Saint Gobain Ceramics and UHP-1010 from Carborundum.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, boron nitride particles having a volume mean size D50 of less than 6 μm, for example the boron nitride particles sold under the name PUHP1030L by Saint Gobain Ceramics, will be used, the volume mean size of which is 3 μm.

Preferably, the white particles are present in an amount of 0.1 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 5 wt.%, more preferably 1 to 3 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Nonionic surfactant

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one nonionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of the oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan.

Surfactants of this type which may be mentioned include more particularly:

oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, such as (INCI name) polysorbate 20, polysorbate 65, polysorbate 80, polysorbate 85, PEG-5 sorbitan isostearate, PEG-20 sorbitan triisostearate, PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate, PEG-40 sorbitan heptaoleate, PEG-20 sorbitan tetraoleate and PEG-20 sorbitan trioleate.

Mention may be made of polysorbate 20, such as those sold by Croda under the trade name Tween 20-LQ- (AP).

The nonionic surfactant is present in an amount effective to improve the dispersion of the white particles in the composition according to the invention.

The weight ratio of the nonionic surfactant to the white particles is in the range of 1:100 to 1:10, preferably 1:20 to 1: 10.

Preferably, the nonionic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt.% to 3 wt.%, preferably from 0.05 wt.% to 1 wt.%, and more preferably from 0.1 wt.% to 0.5 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Hydrophilic thickening polymers

The hydrophilic thickening polymer is selected from copolymers of at least one monomer (a) selected from carboxylic acids having alpha, beta-ethylenically unsaturated groups or esters thereof and at least one monomer (b) having an ethylenically unsaturated group comprising a hydrophobic group, and polymers comprising at least one monomer having a sulfo group and mixtures thereof.

Hydrophilic thickening polymers may also exhibit emulsifying properties.

The hydrophilic thickening polymer is preferably anionic.

i) At least one selected from the group consisting of compounds having alpha, beta-ethylenic unsaturationAnd a carboxylic acid or ester thereof with at least one monomer (a) Copolymers of monomers (b) having ethylenically unsaturated groups, containing hydrophobic groups

The term "copolymer" is understood to mean both copolymers obtained from two types of monomers and those obtained from more than two types of monomers (for example terpolymers obtained from three types of monomers).

Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit. The term "hydrophobic group" or "hydrophobic unit" is intended to denote a group having a saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the hydrophilic thickening polymer is selected from copolymers of the following monomers:

at least one monomer of the following formula (1):

(1)

wherein R is₁Represents H or CH₃Or C₂H₅I.e. acrylic, methacrylic or ethacrylic acid monomers, and

at least one unsaturated carboxylic acid (C)₁₀-C₃₀) An alkyl ester type monomer corresponding to a monomer of the following formula (2):

(2)

wherein R is₂Represents H or CH₃Or C₂H₅(i.e., acrylate, methacrylate or ethacrylate units) and preferably H (acrylate units) or CH₃(methacrylate ester units), and R₃Is represented by C₁₀-C₃₀Alkyl and preferably C₁₂-C₂₂An alkyl group.

Of unsaturated carboxylic acids₁₀-C₃₀) The alkyl ester is preferablySelected from the group consisting of lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, dodecyl acrylate and the corresponding methacrylates, such as lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic thickening polymers are crosslinked.

Among hydrophilic thickening polymers of this type, more particularly copolymers resulting from the polymerization of a monomer mixture comprising:

(i) substantially a mixture of acrylic acid and/or acrylic acid,

(ii) the ester of formula (2) described above, wherein R₂Represents H or CH₃And R is₃Represents an alkyl group having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and

(iii) crosslinkers, which are well known copolymerizable polyethylenically unsaturated monomers, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth) acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly) ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide.

Among copolymers of this type, more particularly from 95 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic units), from 4 to 40% by weight of acrylic acid C will be used₁₀-C₃₀Alkyl esters (hydrophobic units) and from 0 to 6% by weight of crosslinkable monomers, or from 98 to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic units), from 1 to 4% by weight of acrylic acid C₁₀-C₃₀Alkyl esters (hydrophobic units) and from 0.1 to 0.6% by weight of cross-linkable polymerizable monomers, such as those described above.

Of the above polymers, very particular preference is given according to the invention to acrylate/acrylic acid C₁₀-C₃₀Alkyl ester copolymer (INCI name: acrylate/acrylic acid C)₁₀-C₃₀Alkyl ester cross-linked polymers), such as those sold by Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen TR1, Pemulen TR2, Carbopol 1382, and Carbopol EDT 2020, and still more preferably Pemulen TR-2.

ii) is comprised ofPolymers of at least one monomer having a sulfo group

The hydrophilic thickening polymer comprising at least one monomer having a sulfo group used in the composition of the present invention is soluble or dispersible in water or swellable in water. The polymers used according to the invention may be homopolymers or copolymers and can be obtained from at least one monomer having an ethylenically unsaturated group and having sulfo groups, which may be in free form or in partially or completely neutralized form. These polymers may optionally comprise at least one hydrophobic group and may then constitute a polymer (or hydrophobically modified polymer).

Preferably, the polymers according to the invention can be prepared with inorganic bases (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia) or organic bases (for example monoethanolamine, diethanolamine or triethanolamine, aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine); basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine; and mixtures of these compounds are partially or fully neutralized. They are generally neutralized. The term "neutralized" is understood herein to mean a completely or virtually completely neutralized (i.e., at least 90% neutralized) polymer.

The polymers used in the compositions of the present invention typically have a number average molecular weight in the range of 1000-.

The polymers according to the invention may or may not be crosslinked.

The monomers having a sulfo group of the polymers used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen in particular from vinylsulfonic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, (meth) acrylamido (C)₁-C₂₂) Alkyl sulfonic acid, N- (C)₁-C₂₂) Alkyl (meth) acrylamide group (C)₁-C₂₂) Alkylsulfonic acids (e.g., undecylacrylamidomethanesulfonic acid), and also their partially or fully neutralized forms, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the monomer having a sulfo group is selected from the group consisting of (meth) acrylamido (C)₁-C₂₂) Alkylsulfonic acids, e.g. acrylamideMesilate, acrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2, 4, 4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamidododecanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2, 6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid, and also their partially or completely neutralized forms, and mixtures thereof.

More particularly, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic Acid (AMPS) and its partially or completely neutralized forms are used.

When the polymer is crosslinked, the crosslinking agent may be selected from compounds having polyethylenically unsaturated groups that are commonly used for crosslinking of polymers obtained by free radical polymerization.

As crosslinking agents there may be mentioned, for example, divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyethylene glycol diallyl ether, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol di (meth) acrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, methylenebismethacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl esters of (meth) acrylic acids, allyl ethers of alcohols of the sugar series, or allyl ethers or vinyl ethers of other polyfunctional alcohols, and allyl esters of phosphoric acid and/or vinylphosphonic acid derivatives, or mixtures of these compounds.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the crosslinking agent is selected from methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA). The degree of crosslinking is generally in the range from 0.01 to 10 mol% and more particularly from 0.2 to 2 mol% relative to the polymer.

When the polymers used are homopolymers, they contain only monomers having sulfo groups and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents.

The preferred AMPS ® homopolymers are typically those wherein they comprise randomly distributed:

a) 90 to 99.9% by weight of units of the formula (3):

(3)

wherein X⁺Denotes a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth metal cation or an ammonium ion, possibly up to 10 mol% of a cation X⁺Is a proton H⁺；

b)0.01 to 10 wt% of crosslinking units derived from at least one monomer having at least two ethylenic double bonds; the proportions by weight are defined with respect to the total weight of the polymer.

More particularly preferred homopolymers according to the invention comprise from 98% to 99.5% by weight of units of the formula (II) and from 0.2% to 2% by weight of crosslinking units.

As polymers of this type, mention may in particular be made of crosslinked and neutralized homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid sold by Clariant under the name Hostacerin AMPS ® (CTFA name: Polyacrylamidodimethyltaurate ammonium).

The polymer may also be an amphiphilic homopolymer (or hydrophobically modified homopolymer) selected from the group consisting of homopolymers and copolymers obtainable by reaction with a mono (C)₆-C₂₂N-alkyl) amines or di (C)₆-C₂₂N-alkyl) amine, such as those described in WO-A-00/31154, which is A grafted homopolymer.

When the polymers used are copolymers, they can be obtained from monomers having ethylenically unsaturated groups and having sulfo groups and from other monomers having ethylenically unsaturated groups (i.e. monomers having ethylenically unsaturated groups and no sulfo groups).

The monomers having ethylenically unsaturated groups and having sulfo groups are selected from those described above.

The monomer having an ethylenically unsaturated group without a sulfo group may be selected from the group consisting of a hydrophilic monomer having an ethylenically unsaturated group, a hydrophobic monomer having an ethylenically unsaturated group, and a mixture thereof. When the polymer comprises a hydrophobic monomer, it constitutes an amphiphilic polymer (also referred to as hydrophobically modified polymer).

The hydrophilic monomer having an ethylenically unsaturated group may be selected, for example, from (meth) acrylic acid, their alkyl derivatives substituted in the beta position, or their esters with mono-or di-or polyglycols, (meth) acrylamide, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylformamide, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid, maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.

When the hydrophilic thickening polymer used in the composition according to the invention is a copolymer obtainable from monomers having ethylenically unsaturated groups and having sulfo groups and hydrophilic monomers having ethylenically unsaturated groups, it may in particular be selected from (1) crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide or methacrylamide with 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, in particular those provided in the form of W/O emulsions, such as those sold under the name Sepigel 305 by Seppic (CTFA name: polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/laureth-7) or under the name Simulgel 600 by Seppic (CTFA name: acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate 80), (2) acrylic acid or (meth) acrylates with 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid Copolymers, in particular those provided in the form of W/O emulsions, such as those sold under the name Simulgel ™ (sodium 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, as 40% inverse emulsion in polysorbate 60 and squalane) by Seppic (CTFA name: hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer/squalane/polysorbate 60) or those sold under the name Simulgel @ (EG) by Seppic (acrylic acid/2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (in the form of a sodium salt copolymer), as 45% inverse emulsion in isohexadecane/water) (CTFA name: sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate 80), and (3) copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid with vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide, such as the product sold under the name Aristoflex AVC by Clariant.

In a preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic thickening polymer used is selected from the group consisting of acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, and crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide or methacrylamide with 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.

Preferably, the hydrophilic thickening polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 5 wt.%, preferably from 0.2 to 5 wt.% and more preferably from 0.5 to 3 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The inventors have surprisingly found that white particles can be easily dispersed in the composition according to the invention with the aid of a nonionic surfactant selected from the group of oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan and a hydrophilic thickening polymer. No pigment aggregation and clumping was observed in the composition according to the invention.

Skin lightening or whitening active ingredients

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one skin lightening or whitening active ingredient selected from flavonoids.

Flavonoids

Flavonoids are a specific group of polyphenols, and the most abundant group of polyphenolic compounds, constituting about two thirds of the total phenols in the spent feed. Flavonoids are further classified into chalcones, flavones, flavanones, flavanols, flavonols, flavanonols, isoflavonoids, neoflavonoids, catechins, anthocyanidins, and tannins according to chemical structure. Over 4,000 flavonoids have been identified, many of which are present in fruits, vegetables and beverages (tea, coffee, beer, wine and fruit drinks). Flavonoids have been reported to have antiviral, antiallergic, antiplatelet, anti-inflammatory, antitumor and antioxidant activities. Flavonoids protect lipids and live cell components from damaging oxidative stress by effectively scavenging free radicals.

Preferably, the flavonoid used is a flavone.

Baicalin (component of the Chinese herbal medicine scutellaria baicalensis (Huang-chi)) is a flavone (a flavonoid). It is an effective antioxidant showing an effective action against oxidative stress diseases, inflammation, allergy, cancer, bacterial infection and the like.

Baicalin is found in several species of the genus Scutellaria (Scutellaria), including Scutellaria (Scutellaria basicalensis) and Scutellaria laterali (Scutellaria lateriflora). Scutellaria baicalensis (Scutellaria galericulata) leaves present at 10 mg/g baicalin. Baicalin is also present in bark isolates of the Oroxylum indicum (Oroxylum indicum) tree.

In one embodiment according to the present invention, baicalin is used in the form of an extract of the root of Scutellaria baicalensis (Scutellaria baicalensis).

Preferably, the flavonoid is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt.% to 2 wt.%, preferably from 0.1 wt.% to 1 wt.%, more preferably from 0.1 wt.% to 0.5 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivatives

According to a preferred embodiment according to the present invention, the composition further comprises at least one hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivative as skin lightening or whitening active ingredient.

The hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivatives which can be used in the compositions of the invention are preferably selected from those of formula (4) below:

(4)

wherein:

R₁selected from the group consisting of a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, -an OH group and a halogen,

R₂selected from the group consisting of a hydrogen atom, a methyl group and a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms,

R₃selected from methyl or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms,

R₄and R₅Independently of one another, from a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, -an OH group or a halogen.

Relative to the bond formed by the carbon linking the two aromatic nuclei to each other, -OH, R₁、R₄And R₅The groups may be in the ortho, meta or para positions.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, compounds of formula (4) are used, wherein:

-R₁、R₂、R₄and R₅Represents a hydrogen atom;

-R₃is methyl;

the-OH groups are located in the ortho and para positions with respect to the bond formed by the carbon linking the two aromatic nuclei to each other.

This compound corresponds to the following formula (5):

(5)

referred to as 4- (1-phenylethyl) -1, 3-benzenediol or 4- (1-phenylethyl) -1, 3-dihydroxybenzene or alternatively phenylethyl resorcinol or phenylethyl benzenediol or styryl resorcinol. This compound has CAS number 85-27-8. Such compounds are known under the name Symwhite 377 by Symrise^®Or Bio 377.

If present, the hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivative is present in an amount in the range of from 0.1 wt.% to 2 wt.%, more preferably from 0.1 wt.% to 1 wt.%, even more preferably from 0.1 wt.% to 0.5 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Hydrotropic agent

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrotrope.

A single type of hydrotrope can be used, but two or more different types of hydrotropes can be used in combination.

Hydrotropes can be a diverse class of compounds characterized by an amphiphilic molecular structure and the ability to significantly increase the solubility of poorly soluble organic molecules in water. Many hydrotropes have aromatic structures with ionic moieties, while some of them are linear alkyl chains (as listed in the table below). Although hydrotropes are clearly similar to surfactants and have the ability to reduce surface tension, their small hydrophobic units and relatively short alkyl chains distinguish them as a separate class of amphiphiles.

Common hydrotropic molecules include: sodium 1, 3-benzenedisulfonate, sodium benzoate, sodium 4-pyridinecarboxylate, sodium salicylate, sodium benzenesulfonate, caffeine, sodium p-toluenesulfonate, sodium butylmonoglycol sulfate, 4-aminobenzoate, sodium cumene sulfonate, sodium sulfoacetate, sodium salt, sodium sulfoacetate, sodium salt, sodium sulfoacetate, sodium salt,N,N-diethylnicotinamide,N-pyridylmethyl nicotinamide,N-allylnicotinamide, 2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphocholine, resorcinol, butylurea, pyrogallol, N-pyridylmethylacetamide 3.5, procaine hydrochloride, proline hydrochloride, nicotinamide, pyridine, 3-pyridylmethylamine, sodium ibuprofen, sodium xylenesulfonate, ethyl carbamate, pyridoxal hydrochloride, sodium benzoate, 2-pyrrolidone, ethylurea, N-dimethylacetamide, N-methylacetamide and isoniazid. Hydrotropes can be found in Lee J.et al, "hydrocopic solution of Paclitaxel: Analysis of Chemical Structures for hydrocopic Property", Pharmaceutical Research, Vol.20, No. 7, 2003 and Hodgon T.K., Kaler E.W., "hydrocopic Solutions", Current Opinion in Colloid and Interface Science, 12, 121-128, 2007.

Cosmetically acceptable hydrotropes are the preferred hydrotropes that can be used in cosmetic compositions. Although hydrotropes represent a large class of molecules used in various fields, cosmetic applications are limited due to safety and tolerability limitations. Preferred hydrotropes in cosmetics are listed below:

name of hydrotrope	Structure of the product
		Nicotinamide (vitamin B3)
Caffeine
		PCA sodium salt
Salicylic acid sodium salt

The suitability of a hydrotrope for use in a cosmetic composition can be determined using tests known in the art for determining the effect of a compound on skin as well as bioavailability methods.

The advantage of using a hydrotrope is that once a stable solution is obtained, further dilution does not affect the stability of the solution. This is quite different from organic solvents that are commonly used to increase the water solubility of active substances. In general, aqueous dilution of organic solvents with pre-dissolved active substances leads to crystallization or precipitation.

The hydrotrope can have the following logP: for nonionic hydrotropes-0.7 to 6, preferably-0.7 to 1.0, preferably-0.5 to 0.7, and for ionic hydrotropes (e.g. acidic hydrotropes) preferably-0.7 to 5.5.

The formulator will adjust the pH with a hydrotrope to optimize clarity.

The logP value is the base 10 logarithm of the apparent octan-1-ol/water partition coefficient. The logP values are known and determined by standard tests that determine the concentration of compound (c) in oct-1-ol and water. Can be according to the Meylan and Howard in the paperAtom/Fragment contribution method for estimating octanol-water partition coefficientsJ. pharm. Sci., 84: 83-92, 1995 to calculate logP. This value can also be calculated using many commercially available software packages that determine logP as a function of molecular structure. By way of example, Epiwin software from the United States Environmental Agency may be mentioned.

This value can be calculated using, inter alia, ACD (advanced Chemistry development) Solaris software V4.67; they are also available from expanding QSAR: hydrobic, electronic and steric constants (ACS technical reference, 1995). There is also an internet site that provides estimates (address: http:// esc. sysres. com/interkow/kowdemo. htm).

Preferably, the hydrotrope is selected from oxothiazolidinecarboxylic acids; vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof, preferably niacinamide; xanthine bases, preferably caffeine; camphorbenzammonium methylsulfate, ellagic acid, hydroxyphenoxypropionic acid, diethyl 2, 4-pyridinedicarboxylate (diethyl nicotinate), terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, ferulic acid, salicylic acid, phloretin, acetyltrifluoromethylphenylvalylglycine, resveratrol, 4-butylresorcinol, apigenin, phenethylresorcinol, prasterone, benzophenone-3, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, octanoylsalicylic acid, ethylhexyl salicylate, and jasmonic acid derivatives, preferably sodium tetrahydrojasmonate. Vitamin B3 and its derivatives, xanthine bases (e.g. caffeine) and jasmonic acid derivatives, described in more detail below, are more preferred.

(vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof)

Vitamin B3, also known as vitamin PP, is a compound of formula (6) below:

(6)

wherein R may be-CONH₂(nicotinamide), -COOH (nicotinic acid or nicotinic acid), or CH₂OH (nicotinyl alcohol), -CO-NH-CH₂-COOH (nicotinic acid) or-CO-NH-OH (nicotinic hydroxamic acid). Nicotinamide is preferred.

Vitamin B3 derivatives that may be mentioned include, for example, nicotinates, such as tocopherol nicotinate; by substitution of-CONH₂The hydrogen group of (a) is derived from an amide of nicotinamide; products from reactions with carboxylic acids and amino acids; esters of nicotinyl alcohol and carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid or palmitic acid.

The following derivatives may also be mentioned: 2-chloronicotinamide, 6-methylnicotinamide, 6-aminonicotinamide, N-methylnicotinamide, N-dimethylnicotinamide, N- (hydroxymethyl) nicotinamide, quinolinic acid imide, nicotinanilide, N-benzylnicotinamide, N-ethylnicotinamide, Nifenazone, nicotinaldehyde (nicotinaldehyde), isonicotinic acid, methylisonicotinic acid, thionicotinamide, niaziamide, 2-mercaptonicotinic acid, Nikemor and Nipramizine, methyl nicotinate and sodium nicotinate.

Other vitamin B3 derivatives that may also be mentioned include inorganic salts thereof, such as chloride, bromide, iodide or carbonate; and organic salts thereof, such as salts obtained by reaction with carboxylic acids, for example, acetates, salicylates, glycolates, lactates, malates, citrates, mandelates, tartrates and the like.

Preferably, vitamin B3 or a derivative thereof has a log P of-0.7 to 6, preferably-0.6 to 5, more preferably-0.5 to 4.

(xanthine base)

Among the xanthine bases which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of: caffeine, theophylline, theobromine, theophylline acetic acid, xanthinol nicotinate, dineophylline, diprophylline, etatheophylline and its derivatives, etoxytheophylline, propoxyphylline, pentophylline, propentofylline, pyridotheophylline and camitein, this list being non-limiting.

Preferably, the xanthine base is selected from caffeine, theophylline, theobromine, theophylline acetic acid and mixtures thereof. These xanthine bases are known as inhibitors of phosphodiesterase, an enzyme responsible for the degradation of cAMP. By increasing the intracellular content of cAMP, these xanthines promote lipolytic activity and thus constitute a leading slimming agent.

As examples of plant extracts containing xanthine bases, mention may be made in particular of the extracts of tea, coffee, guarana, yerba mate and cola nuts, this list being non-limiting.

Preferably, the xanthine base has a log P of-0.7 to 6, preferably-0.6 to 5, more preferably-0.5 to 4 and even more preferably-0.3 to 2.

(jasmonic acid derivative)

Jasmonic acid derivatives are compounds selected from those corresponding to the following formula (7):

(7)

wherein: r₁Represents COOR₃Group, R₃Represents a hydrogen atom or C optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups₁-C₄An alkyl group; r₂Represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical which is linear and which has from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or which is branched or cyclic and which has from 3 to 18 carbon atoms; and their optical isomers and corresponding salts.

Preferably, R₁Represents a group selected from: -COOH, -COOMe (Me: methyl), -COO-CH₂-CH₃、-COO-CH_2--CH(OH)-CH₂OH、-COOCH₂-CH₂-CH₂OH or-COOCH₂-CH(OH)-CH₃. Preferably R₁Represents a-COOH group.

Preferably, R₂Represents a saturated or unsaturated linear hydrocarbon group preferably having 2 to carbon atoms. In particular, R₂May be pentyl, pentenyl, hexyl or heptyl.

According to one embodiment, the compound of formula (I) is selected from 3-hydroxy-2- [ (2Z) -2-pentenyl ] cyclopentaneacetic acid or 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentaneacetic acid, and preferably is 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentaneacetic acid.

The salts of the compounds which can be used according to the invention are chosen in particular from alkali metal salts, such as sodium or potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, such as calcium, magnesium or strontium salts; metal salts such as zinc, aluminum, manganese or copper salts; formula NH₄ ⁺The ammonium salt of (1); a quaternary ammonium salt; organic amine salts such as methylamine salt, dimethylamine salt, trimethylamine salt, triethylamine salt, ethylamine salt, 2-hydroxyethylamine salt, bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amine salt or tris (2-hydroxyethyl) amine salt; or a lysine salt or an arginine salt. Preferably, a salt selected from the following is used: sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium, strontium, copper, manganese or zinc salts.

The following compounds are preferably used as jasmonic acid derivatives (Mexoryl SBO).

Preferably, the jasmonic acid derivative has a log P of-0.7 to 6, preferably-0.6 to 5, more preferably-0.5 to 4.

Preferably, the hydrotrope is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt.% to 10 wt.%, preferably from 0.5 wt.% to 8 wt.%, more preferably from 1 wt.% to 5 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Organopolysiloxane elastomers

In some embodiments, the composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer (also referred to as silicone elastomer) to further improve the feel.

The organopolysiloxane elastomer can be an emulsifying elastomer or a non-emulsifying elastomer.

In a preferred embodiment, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is an organopolysiloxane elastomer which does not contain hydrophilic chains (e.g. polyalkylene oxide or polyglycerolated units), which is also known under the name non-emulsifying elastomer.

In one embodiment, the organopolysiloxane elastomer or non-emulsifying silicone elastomer free of hydrophilic chains may be defined as an elastomeric crosslinked (cross-bonded) organopolysiloxane, which may be obtained by: by a crosslinking addition reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen and a diorganopolysiloxane containing silicon-bonded ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst; or by a dehydrocrosslinking coupling reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane having hydroxyl end groups and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen, in particular in the presence of an organotin compound; or by a crosslinking coupling reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane having hydroxyl end groups and a hydrolyzable organopolysiloxane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxanes, in particular in the presence of an organic peroxide catalyst; or crosslinking by high energy radiation (e.g., gamma, ultraviolet, or electron beam) through the organopolysiloxane.

Preferably, the elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane is obtained by ｃA crosslinking addition reaction of ｃA diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to silicon (A2) and ｃA diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon (B2), in particular in the presence of ｃA platinum catalyst (C2), as described for example in patent application EP-A-295886.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane can be obtained by the reaction of a dimethylpolysiloxane having dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups with a methylhydrogenpolysiloxane having trimethylsiloxy end groups in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

Compound (a2) is a base reagent for forming an elastomeric organopolysiloxane, and crosslinking is carried out by an addition reaction of compound (a2) with compound (B2) in the presence of a catalyst (C2).

Compound (A2) advantageously contains at least two lower groups (e.g. C)₂-C₄) An alkenyl diorganopolysiloxane; the lower alkenyl group may be selected from vinyl, allyl and propenyl. These lower alkenyl groups may be located anywhere on the organopolysiloxane molecule, but are preferably located organicallyThe end of the polysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (A2) may have a branched chain, a linear chain, a cyclic, or a network structure, but a linear chain structure is preferred. Compound (a2) may have a viscosity in the liquid to colloidal range. Preferably, compound (a2) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25 ℃.

The organopolysiloxane (A2) may be selected from the group consisting of methylvinylsiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes having dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers having dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers having dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers having trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers having trimethylsiloxy end groups, methyl (3,3, 3-trifluoropropyl) polysiloxanes having dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, polydimethylsiloxane, and polydimethylsiloxane, And dimethylsiloxane-methyl (3,3, 3-trifluoropropyl) siloxane copolymers with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups.

Compound (B2) is especially an organopolysiloxane that contains at least two silicon-bonded hydrogens in each molecule, and is thus a crosslinker for compound (a 2).

Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of compound (a2) and the number of silicon-bonded hydrogen atoms per molecule of compound (B2) is at least 4.

The compound (B2) may have any molecular structure, in particular a linear or branched chain structure, or a cyclic structure.

Compound (B2) may have a viscosity in the range of 1 to 50000 centistokes at 25 ℃, in particular in order to have good miscibility with compound (a).

Advantageously, compound (B2) is added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of silicon-bonded hydrogen atoms in compound (B2) and the total amount of all ethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (a2) is in the range of 1/1 to 20/1.

The compound (B2) may be selected from methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes with trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy end groups and dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane cyclic copolymers.

The compound (C2) is a crosslinking reaction catalyst, and is particularly chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.

It is preferable to add 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, still more preferably 1 to 100 parts by weight, of the catalyst (C2) as a neat platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of the compounds (A2) and (B2).

Other organic groups may be bonded to the silicon in the organopolysiloxanes (a2) and (B2) described above, such as alkyl groups, e.g., methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3, 3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as epoxy groups, carboxylate groups, or mercapto groups.

According to a preferred embodiment, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is mixed with at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil to form a gel. In these gels, the non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer is in particular in the form of non-spherical particles.

In a preferred embodiment, the silicone oil mixed with the organopolysiloxane elastomer to form the gel is a linear silicone oil (dimethicone) having a molecular weight of from 1 to 350cst, especially from 2 to 100cst and preferably from 2 to 10cst at 25 ℃. The viscosity of the silicone oil can be measured according to ASTM D-445.

As examples of organopolysiloxane elastomers mixed with linear silicone oils for use in the present invention, the following reference names can be mentioned:

dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) dimethicone such as the trade designation « KSG-6 and « KSG-16 sold by Shin Etsu;

polydimethylsiloxane (and) polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer, such as that sold by Dow Corning under the trade name « DC 9041.

In a preferred embodiment the composition comprises at least a non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer in the form of a gel, wherein the organopolysiloxane elastomer is mixed with a linear silicone oil having a viscosity in the range of 1 to 100cst at 25 ℃, especially in the range of 1 to 10cst at 25 ℃, especially one of the INCI names dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) dimethicone, such as the trade names « KSG-6 and « KSG-16 sold by Shin Etsu, preferably KSG-16.

In another embodiment, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is an emulsifying elastomer.

Emulsified silicone elastomer is understood to mean a silicone elastomer comprising at least one hydrophilic chain.

The emulsified silicone elastomer may be selected from elastomers of polyoxyalkylenated silicones or polyglycerolated silicones.

Polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers are crosslinked organopolysiloxanes which are obtainable by a crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxanes containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen with a polyalkylene oxide having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups.

Polyoxyalkylenated elastomers are described in particular in patents US5236986, US5412004, US5837793 and US5811487 (the contents of which are incorporated by reference).

As the polyoxyalkylene silicone elastomer, it is possible to use those sold by Shin Etsu under the names "KSG-21", "KSG-20", "KSG-30", "KSG-210", "KSG-310", "KSG-320", "KSG-330", "KSG-340", "X-226146"; and those sold by Dow Corning under the names "DC9010", "DC 9011".

Polyglycerolated silicone elastomers are crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers obtainable by a crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxanes containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon with polyglycerolated compounds having ethylenically unsaturated groups, in particular in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

Such polyglycerolated elastomers are described in particular in patent application WO 2004/024798.

As polyglycerolated silicone elastomers, it is possible to use those sold by Shin Etsu under the names "KSG-710", "KSG-810", "KSG-820", "KSG-830", "KSG-840".

In a preferred embodiment, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is a non-emulsifying elastomer, i.e. an organopolysiloxane elastomer which does not contain hydrophilic chains.

Non-emulsifying elastomers that may be used include those sold by the company Shin-Etsu under the names KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43, and KSG-44; those sold by Dow Corning under the names DC9040, DC9041, DC9509, DC9505 and DC 9506; those sold by Grant Industries under the name Gransil; and those sold under the name SFE 839 by General Electric company.

Non-emulsifying elastomers that may be more particularly used include those sold under the names KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44 by the company Shin-Etsu, more particularly those sold under the names KSG-15 and KSG-16, and preferably those sold under the name KSG-16.

KSG-16 is a gel consisting of 24% dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer and 76% dimethicone.

KSG-15 is a gel consisting of 6% dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer and 94% cyclomethicone.

In a preferred embodiment, the organopolysiloxane elastomer has the INCI designation polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer.

The organopolysiloxane elastomer is present in an amount effective to maintain the dispersion of the white particles in the composition according to the invention.

If present, the organopolysiloxane elastomer (especially a non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer), alone or as a mixture, is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt.% to 5 wt.%, preferably from 0.5 wt.% to 3 wt.%, and more preferably from 1.0 wt.% to 2.5 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Aqueous phase

The compositions of the present invention comprise at least one continuous aqueous phase.

The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, for example C₂To C₈Lower polyols or monohydric alcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.

The term "polyol" is understood to mean any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include diols such as butanediol, propylene glycol and isoprene glycol; caprylyl glycol, glycerin (i.e., glycerol), and polyethylene glycol.

The aqueous phase may also contain any of the usual water-soluble or water-dispersible additives as mentioned below.

The aqueous phase may constitute an amount of from 30 wt.% to 99 wt.%, preferably from 30 wt.% to 95 wt.%, more preferably from 60 wt.% to 90 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Oil phase

The composition of the invention comprises at least one oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase as described above.

The nature of the oil phase of the composition according to the invention is not critical.

In particular, the oil phase comprises at least one oil.

The term "oil" refers to any body of fat that is in liquid form at room temperature (20-25 ℃) and atmospheric pressure. These oils may be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.

The term "volatile oil" refers to any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating from the skin or lips in less than 1 hour at room temperature (20-25 ℃) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Volatile oils are volatile cosmetic oils that are liquid at room temperature. More specifically, the volatile oil has a viscosity of between 0.01 mg/cm²Min and 200 mg/cm²Evaporation rate between/min (inclusive).

The term "non-volatileOil "is intended to mean an oil that remains on the keratin materials at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, the non-volatile oil has a viscosity of strictly 0.01 mg/cm²Evaporation rate below/min.

To measure this evaporation rate, 15g of the oil or oil mixture to be tested are introduced into a crystallizer of diameter 7 cm placed on a balance at 0.3m with a temperature controlled at 25 ℃ and a humidity controlled at 50% relative humidity³In the large chamber. The liquid was allowed to evaporate freely without stirring by: the ventilation was provided by means of a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550N, rotating at 2700 rpm) located vertically above the crystallizer containing the solvent, with the blades directed towards the crystallizer and at a distance of 20cm from the base of the crystallizer. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizer is measured at regular intervals. Evaporation rate in units per surface area (cm)²) And milligrams of oil evaporated per time unit (min).

Oils suitable for use in the present invention are not limited and may be hydrocarbon-based, silicone-based, or fluorine-based.

According to the invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom (and in particular at least one Si-O group).

The term "fluoro oil" refers to an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

The term "hydrocarbon oil" refers to an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms.

The oil may optionally include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid groups.

The oil phase may be present in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 70 wt.%, preferably from 0.5 to 50 wt.%, and more preferably from 0.5 to 20 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

As noted above, such amounts of the oil phase do not include the amount of emulsifier.

Additive agent

In a known manner, the composition according to the invention may also contain one or more additives commonly found in cosmetics or dermatology.

Examples of adjuvants that may be mentioned include emulsifiers, gelling agents, active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, fragrances, sunscreens (= UV screening agents), additional dyes, alkaline agents (triethanolamine, diethanolamine or sodium hydroxide) or acid agents (citric acid), and also lipid vesicles or any other type of carrier (nanocapsules, microcapsules, etc.) and mixtures thereof.

These additives are used in the proportions usual in the cosmetic field, for example from 0.01% to 30% by weight of the total composition, and depending on their nature, they are incorporated into the aqueous phase or into the oily phase of the composition, or into vesicles or any other type of carrier.

These additives and their concentrations must be such that they do not alter the desired properties of the compositions of the present invention.

According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition for lightening or whitening keratin materials in the form of an emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase and comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

(i)1 to 3 wt.% of at least one white particle selected from boron nitride, silica, pearls, mica, synthetic mica, mica-based nacreous pigment particles; composite particles comprising titanium dioxide and a substrate selected from the group consisting of alumina, silica, barium sulfate, glass, mica, and synthetic mica; or mixtures thereof;

(ii) 0.1 to 0.5 wt.% of at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from polysorbate 20, polysorbate 80, polysorbate 65, polysorbate 85, PEG-5 sorbitan isostearate, PEG-20 sorbitan triisostearate, PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate, PEG-40 sorbitan heptaoleate, PEG-20 sorbitan tetraoleate, and PEG-20 sorbitan trioleate;

(iii) 0.5 to 3 wt.% of at least one hydrophilic thickening polymer selected from the group consisting of acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers, and crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide or methacrylamide with 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid;

(iv) as skin lightening or whitening active ingredients:

0.1 to 0.5 wt.% of at least one flavone; and

0.1 to 0.5 wt.% of at least one hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivative selected from those of the following formula (4):

(4)

wherein:

- R₁、R₂、R₄and R₅Represents a hydrogen atom;

-R₃is methyl;

-the OH groups are located in the ortho and para positions with respect to the bond formed by the carbon linking the two aromatic nuclei to each other; and

(v)1 to 5 wt.% of at least one hydrotrope: oxothiazolidinecarboxylic acid; vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof, preferably niacinamide; xanthine bases, preferably caffeine; camphorbenzazapine methylsulfate, ellagic acid, hydroxyphenoxypropionic acid, diethyl 2, 4-pyridinedicarboxylate, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, ferulic acid, salicylic acid, phloretin, acetyltrifluoromethylphenylvalylglycine, resveratrol, 4-butylresorcinol, apigenin, phenethylresorcinol, prasterone, benzophenone-3, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, octanoylsalicylic acid, ethylhexyl salicylate; and jasmonic acid derivatives, preferably sodium tetrahydrojasmonate.

Preferably, the compositions of the invention are in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, for example in the form of emulsions (lotions), creams, gels or liquid foundations, and they are prepared according to conventional methods in the cosmetic field.

Method and use

The compositions according to the invention are intended for topical application and may in particular constitute compositions intended for lightening or whitening keratin materials and in particular human skin.

Thus, in a further aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for lightening or whitening keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the step of applying to the keratin materials a composition as defined above.

The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples described below, which are given as non-limiting illustrations.

The percentages are by weight of the active ingredient or substance.

In the following examples, the weight percentages are indicated with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Examples

Example 1: preparation of inventive and comparative formulations

Preparation of inventive formulations (inv.) 1-3 and comparative formulations (comp.) 1-3:

note: the amount of Scutellariae radix (Scutellaria BAICALENSIS) root extract is calculated by the weight of baicalin.

The preparation method comprises the following steps:

1. preparing an aqueous phase: adding hydrotrope component (nicotinamide and/or caffeine) into water, stirring until completely dissolved, adding radix Scutellariae (Scutellaria BAICALENSIS) root extract into water, stirring until completely dissolved, adding other water phase components one by one, and stirring at 500 rpm;

2. adding a hydrophilic thickening polymer (acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer and/or acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate) to the aqueous phase to obtain a gelled aqueous phase;

3. preparing an oil phase: adding active ingredient (phenylethyl resorcinol) to oil, and heating to 60 deg.C^oC, to completely dissolve the active ingredient;

4. adding the oil phase to the gel phase and stirring rapidly at 1000 rpm for 10 minutes;

5. preparation of a mixture of tween 20 and BN in water: BN and tween 20 were added to a small amount of water, then stirred at low speed to obtain a tempered suspension;

6. add tween 20 and BN in water and mix well (add other charge or pearl as needed).

Example 2: evaluation of inventive and comparative formulations

The stability of the compositions according to the inventive and comparative formulations prepared in example 1 was measured.

The following two tests were carried out to observe the stability of the compositions according to the inventive and comparative formulations:

1. accelerated stability testing: transport test, shake the composition in two directions, 1 h/each direction.

2. Long-term aging test: the compositions were left at different temperatures for 2 months.

Compositions according to inventive and comparative formulations were carried out at 40 months using a Binder oven (USA) by leaving the compositions according to inventive and comparative formulations in the oven for 2 months^oC、45^oC and 65^oStability test for 2 months under C.

Stability tests at 4 ℃ for two months were carried out using a traditional chinese meijing refrigerator (YC-260L, china) by leaving the compositions according to the inventive and comparative formulations in this refrigerator for 2 months.

Photostability testing was performed using ATLAC (AMETEK Measurement and Calibration technologies) for 24 hours.

Finally, freeze thaw stability tests were performed using a Binder oven (USA) for 10 cycles. In each cycle, the temperature will gradually change from 20 ℃ to-20 ℃ over a 24 hour period.

The stability results of the compositions according to the inventive formulation and the compositions according to the comparative formulation are listed below.

The results show that: the compositions according to inventive formulations 1 to 3 are stable at different temperatures.