阅读说明：本技术 一种女裤简易排版式裁剪方法 (Simple typesetting type tailoring method for women's trousers ) 是由 陈文强 李姝颖 于 2021-02-26 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明公开了一种女裤简易排版式裁剪方法,其中包括大、中、小号裤子的裁剪方法,大、中、小号裤子的裁片是按照排版的方式进行在矩形布料的表面绘制和裁剪的,其中小号后裤片对应的大号前裤片,中号前裤片对应的是中号后裤片,大号后裤片对应的是小号前裤片。大、中、小号裤子的裤片制图采取小号推算的方式绘制,大、中、小号裤子的裤片前后裆部采取裆尺绘制。本发明利用不同大小号裤片的紧密套排提高布料利用率,降低材料成本,采取小号推算的方法制图,提高了制图和裁剪效率,省去推板技术环节,简易排版式裁剪方法能更好的进行批量生产,减少制图和推板重复性工作,此方法值得推广。(The invention discloses a simple typesetting type cutting method for female trousers, which comprises a cutting method for large, medium and small trousers, wherein the cut pieces of the large, medium and small trousers are drawn and cut on the surface of rectangular cloth according to a typesetting mode, wherein the small rear trousers piece corresponds to a large front trousers piece, the medium front trousers piece corresponds to a medium rear trousers piece, and the large rear trousers piece corresponds to a small front trousers piece. Drawing the trousers pieces of the large, medium and small trousers in a small calculation mode, and drawing the front and rear crotch parts of the trousers pieces of the large, medium and small trousers by a crotch ruler. The invention utilizes the tight nesting of trousers pieces with different sizes to improve the cloth utilization rate and reduce the material cost, adopts a small-size calculation method to draw, improves the drawing and cutting efficiency, saves the technical link of a push plate, can better perform batch production by a simple typesetting type cutting method, and reduces the repetitive work of drawing and the push plate, and is worthy of popularization.)

1. A simple typesetting type tailoring method for female trousers comprises the tailoring of large, medium and small trousers, and is characterized by comprising the following steps:

1) drawing of small trousers

Setting a rectangular left upper point a, a rectangular left lower point b, a rectangular right lower point c and a rectangular right upper point d to form a rectangular cloth, taking a small-size back waist warped point a2, a small-size back waist fallen point a3, a small-size back hip side point a1, a small-size back middle leg base point e, a small-size back middle leg contraction point e1, a small-size back trouser length base point f, a small-size back trouser opening contraction point f1, a small-size back trouser opening big point f4, a small-size back middle leg width point e2, a small-size front trouser length point n, a small-size front trouser opening contraction point n1, a small-size front trouser opening width point n3, a small-size front middle leg base point k, a small-size front middle leg contraction point k1, a small-size front middle leg width point k2, a small-size front hip side point c2 and a small-size front trouser width point c1, wherein the cn and a3 × 0629 are 0.59 × 84, 0.8, 0.7 × 580.7, 0.7 a, 3 × 465.7.7 a, 7.7.7 is 4619.7, a is 465.7.7.7 a, a is 1, a is 465.7.7 a, a is 465.7 a, 465 a, a is 465, k1k2 is 0.283X long, e1e2 is 0.366X long, n1n3 is 0.242X long, f1f4 is 0.274X long, ck and a3e are 0.337X long;

a crotch ruler is adopted, a cut u on the crotch ruler is overlapped with a front waist opening large point c1, a front waist line of the crotch ruler is parallel to a rectangular dc edge, a curve uz forms a crotch curve of a small-size front trouser piece, a curve section is used for connecting the cut z, a cut k2 and a cut n3 to form a crotch line of the small-size front trouser piece, the curve section is connected with c2, a curve section k1 and a curve section n1 to form an outer side line of the small-size front trouser piece, a straight line is connected with n1 and a curve section n3 to form a front trouser opening, and c1, the cut z, a curve 2, a curve 3, a curve 1, a curve section k1, a curve section c2 and a curve;

the crotch ruler cut t is overlapped with a rear waist opening large point a2, the rear waist line is parallel to the side ab of the rectangle, the curve a2x forms the crotch curve of the back trousers piece with a small size, the curve is connected with the cut x, e2 and f4 to form the crotch line of the back trousers piece with a small size, the curve connecting points a1, e and f1 form the outer side line of the back trousers piece with a small size, the straight line is connected with f1 and f4 to form the back trousers opening, and a2, the cut x, e2, f4, f1, e1, a1 and a3 form the structure of the back trousers piece with a small size;

2) drawing of middle trousers

Taking a middle front trouser mouth retraction point f2, a middle front trouser mouth width point f2, a middle front middle leg base point g, a middle front middle leg retraction point g2, a middle front middle leg width point g2, a middle front hip side point g2, a middle front waist side point h, a middle front waist mouth width point h2, a middle rear waist drop point p, a middle rear waist warping point p2, a middle rear hip side point p2, a middle rear middle leg base point o, a middle rear middle leg retraction point o2, a middle rear middle leg width point o2, a middle rear trouser mouth retraction point n2, a middle rear trouser mouth width point n2, wherein the lengths of hf and pn are cn +5.0 cm, the lengths of hh 2+2.0 cm, the lengths of hc 2+2 g +2 cm, the lengths of 2 g +2 cm, the length of 2+2 g +2 cm, the length of the 2+2 g +2 cm, the length of the 2+2 cm, the length of the 2+2 cm of the 2+2 cm, the length, n2n4 has a length of f1f4+2.0 cm, hg and po a length of ck +2.08 cm;

enabling a cut v on a crotch ruler to coincide with a front waist opening large point h2, keeping a front waist line parallel to a rectangular dc edge, forming a crotch curve of a middle-size front trouser piece by a curve h2m, forming a crotch line of the middle-size front trouser piece by a curve connecting cut m, g2 and f3, forming a crotch line of the middle-size front trouser piece by a curve connecting g3, g1 and f2, forming an outer side line of the middle-size front trouser piece by a straight connecting point f2 and f3, forming a front trouser opening, and forming a middle-size front trouser piece structure by h2, cut m, g2, f3, f2, g1, g 35 3 and h;

enabling a cut s on a crotch ruler to coincide with a rear waist opening large point p2, keeping a rear waist line parallel to an ab edge of a rectangle, forming a crotch curve of a middle-size rear trouser piece by a curve p2y, forming a crotch line of the middle-size rear trouser piece by a curve connecting cuts y, o2 and n4, forming a crotch line of the middle-size rear trouser piece by a curve connecting p1, o1 and n2, forming an outer side line of the middle-size rear trouser piece by a straight line connecting n2 and n4 to form a rear trouser opening, and forming a middle-size rear trouser piece structure by p2, cuts y, o2, n4, n2, o1, p 35 1 and p;

3) drawing of large trousers

Taking a base point b of the length of the front big trousers, a base point b of the front big trousers opening, a width point b of the front big trousers opening, a base point r of the front middle big leg, a width point r of the front middle big leg, a side point q of the front big hip, a side point q of the front big waist, a width point q of the front big waist, a warping point h of the back big waist, a landing point h of the back big waist, a side point r of the back big hip, a base point r of the back middle big leg, a base point r of the back middle big middle leg, a width point r of the back middle big leg, a base point d of the mouth of the big trousers and a width point d of the mouth of the back big trousers, wherein qb and h1 are cn +10 cm in length, qq is cc +4.0 cm in length, h1h is a3a +4.0 cm in length, qq and h1r are cc + 1r +1.2 cm in length, r + 1.8 k + 1.5.5 g + 1.0, and rr + 1.4.0 g + 1.4.4.0 cm in length, and ee are c + 1g + 1.4.4 g + 1g +1.4 g + 1g +, b2b3 has a length of n1n3+4.12 cm, d1d2 has a length of f1f4+4.0 cm, qr4 ═ h1r has a length of ck +4.16 cm;

the corner point w on the crotch ruler is overlapped with a front waist opening large point q1, the front waist line is parallel to the rectangular dc edge, a curve q1l forms a crotch curve of a large-size front trouser piece, the curve is connected with cut openings l, r6 and b3 to form a crotch line of the large-size front trouser piece, the curve is connected with q2, r5 and b2 to form an outer side line of the large-size front trouser piece, the straight line is connected with b2 and b3 to form a front trouser opening, and q1, the cut openings l, r6, b3, b2, r5, q2 and q form a structure of the large-size front trouser piece;

the corner point s1 on the crotch ruler is overlapped with the large point h3 of the rear waist opening, the rear waist line is parallel to the side ab of the rectangle, the curve h3l forms the crotch curve of the large-size rear trouser piece, the curve is connected with the cut I, r3 and d2 to form the crotch line of the large-size rear trouser piece, the curve is connected with r2, r1 and d1 to form the outer side line of the large-size rear trouser piece, the straight line is connected with d2 and d1 to form the rear trouser opening, and the h3, the cut I, r3, d2, d1, r1, r2 and h1 form the structure of the large-size rear trouser piece;

the rear waist oblique measurement aa3, qp and hh1 of the large, medium and small pants are 2.0 centimeters long.

2. The simple typesetting cutting method for the female trousers according to claim 1, wherein the crotch ruler modeling is completed by drawing and molding the front and rear crotch structure shapes of the large, medium and small trousers, the crotch ruler structure comprises the front and rear waist lines, the front and rear crotch bends and the outer contour lines, the inner opening of the crotch ruler is marked with the cut s, t, x, y, l, m, z, u and v, the line segment from the cut t to the cut x is the crotch bend of the small rear trousers, the line segment from the cut s to the cut y is the crotch bend of the medium rear trousers, the line segment from the cut s1 to the cut l is the crotch bend of the large rear trousers, the line segment from the cut z to the cut u is the crotch bend of the small front trousers, the line segment from the cut m to the cut v is the crotch bend of the medium front trousers, and the line segment from the outer corner w to the cut l is the crotch bend of the large front trousers, the back waist line and the back crotch curve form 102 degrees, and the front waist line and the front crotch curve form 90 degrees.

3. The panty brief typesetting cutting method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the female sizes of the trousers with large, medium and small sizes are 170/78A, 160/70A and 150/62A.

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the technical field of garment typesetting, and particularly relates to a simple typesetting type tailoring method for women's trousers.

Background

In the batch production of trousers, the traditional production mode is that a middle size template of the trousers is drawn firstly, then the trousers are made into a wool template, and the trousers templates with different sizes are produced by pushing the template on the basis of the wool template. And (3) typesetting on the surface of the cloth by using the templates, wherein the cloth is firstly drawn and laid on a cutting bed before typesetting, and the length and the width of the drawn cloth depend on the typesetting mode. The traditional typesetting production mode causes various production procedures, the typesetting utilization rate is not high, the error of the template is large because the printing and the plate pushing are separately carried out, a large amount of specification difference data are required to be derived and calculated in the plate pushing project, the workload of drawing and plate pushing is increased, the confusion of specification difference calculation is inevitable, and the error of the sub-template is caused. Meanwhile, the technical work can be completed by experienced typists and typesetters, enterprises need more high-tech personnel, labor cost is increased, and production efficiency and positive benefits of the enterprises are not facilitated.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to provide a simple typesetting type cutting method for female trousers, which adopts a mode of printing and push plate integrated drawing to directly draw a template of each trousers on cloth and directly cut, and utilizes a crotch ruler to specially draw the crotch parts of respective trousers pieces, thereby effectively avoiding unreasonable phenomena of the crotch parts of the trousers pieces, and adopts a small size as a master template, and a middle size and a large size only add a difference value on the basis of the small size to produce a sub-template, so that the drawing and cutting of the trousers pieces with different sizes can be rapidly completed. Meanwhile, the cloth rate is saved by 17% by the scheme, and the production cost of the cloth is reduced. The simple typesetting type tailoring method for the female trousers is worthy of popularization.

In order to achieve the technical purpose, the invention is specifically realized by the following technical scheme:

a simple typesetting type tailoring method for female trousers comprises the tailoring of large, medium and small trousers, and comprises the following specific steps:

1) drawing of small trousers

Setting a rectangular left upper point a, a rectangular left lower point b, a rectangular right lower point c and a rectangular right upper point d to form a rectangular cloth, taking a small-size back waist warped point a2, a small-size back waist fallen point a3, a small-size back hip side point a1, a small-size back middle leg base point e, a small-size back middle leg contraction point e1, a small-size back trouser length base point f, a small-size back trouser opening contraction point f1, a small-size back trouser opening big point f4, a small-size back middle leg width point e2, a small-size front trouser length point n, a small-size front trouser opening contraction point n1, a small-size front trouser opening width point n3, a small-size front middle leg base point k, a small-size front middle leg contraction point k1, a small-size front middle leg width point k2, a small-size front hip side point c2 and a small-size front trouser width point c1, wherein the cn and a3 × 0629 are 0.59 × 84, 0.8, 0.7 × 580.7, 0.7 a, 3 × 465.7.7 a, 7.7.7 is 4619.7, a is 465.7.7.7 a, a is 1, a is 465.7.7 a, a is 465.7 a, 465 a, a is 465, k1k2 is 0.283X long, e1e2 is 0.366X long, n1n3 is 0.242X long, f1f4 is 0.274X long, ck and a3e are 0.337X long;

a crotch ruler is adopted, a cut u on the crotch ruler is overlapped with a front waist opening large point c1, a front waist line of the crotch ruler is parallel to a rectangular dc edge, a curve uz forms a crotch curve of a small-size front trouser piece, a curve section is used for connecting the cut z, a cut k2 and a cut n3 to form a crotch line of the small-size front trouser piece, the curve section is connected with c2, a curve section k1 and a curve section n1 to form an outer side line of the small-size front trouser piece, a straight line is connected with n1 and a curve section n3 to form a front trouser opening, and c1, the cut z, a curve 2, a curve 3, a curve 1, a curve section k1, a curve section c2 and a curve;

the crotch ruler cut t is overlapped with a rear waist opening large point a2, the rear waist line is parallel to the side ab of the rectangle, the curve a2x forms the crotch curve of the back trousers piece with a small size, the curve is connected with the cut x, e2 and f4 to form the crotch line of the back trousers piece with a small size, the curve connecting points a1, e and f1 form the outer side line of the back trousers piece with a small size, the straight line is connected with f1 and f4 to form the back trousers opening, and a2, the cut x, e2, f4, f1, e1, a1 and a3 form the structure of the back trousers piece with a small size;

2) drawing of middle trousers

Taking a middle front trouser mouth retraction point f2, a middle front trouser mouth width point f2, a middle front middle leg base point g, a middle front middle leg retraction point g2, a middle front middle leg width point g2, a middle front hip side point g2, a middle front waist side point h, a middle front waist mouth width point h2, a middle rear waist drop point p, a middle rear waist warping point p2, a middle rear hip side point p2, a middle rear middle leg base point o, a middle rear middle leg retraction point o2, a middle rear middle leg width point o2, a middle rear trouser mouth retraction point n2, a middle rear trouser mouth width point n2, wherein the lengths of hf and pn are cn +5.0 cm, the lengths of hh 2+2.0 cm, the lengths of hc 2+2 g +2 cm, the lengths of 2 g +2 cm, the length of 2+2 g +2 cm, the length of the 2+2 g +2 cm, the length of the 2+2 cm, the length of the 2+2 cm of the 2+2 cm, the length, n2n4 has a length of f1f4+2.0 cm, hg and po a length of ck +2.08 cm;

enabling a cut v on a crotch ruler to coincide with a front waist opening large point h2, keeping a front waist line parallel to a rectangular dc edge, forming a crotch curve of a middle-size front trouser piece by a curve h2m, forming a crotch line of the middle-size front trouser piece by a curve connecting cut m, g2 and f3, forming a crotch line of the middle-size front trouser piece by a curve connecting g3, g1 and f2, forming an outer side line of the middle-size front trouser piece by a straight connecting point f2 and f3, forming a front trouser opening, and forming a middle-size front trouser piece structure by h2, cut m, g2, f3, f2, g1, g 35 3 and h;

enabling a cut s on a crotch ruler to coincide with a rear waist opening large point p2, keeping a rear waist line parallel to an ab edge of a rectangle, forming a crotch curve of a middle-size rear trouser piece by a curve p2y, forming a crotch line of the middle-size rear trouser piece by a curve connecting cuts y, o2 and n4, forming a crotch line of the middle-size rear trouser piece by a curve connecting p1, o1 and n2, forming an outer side line of the middle-size rear trouser piece by a straight line connecting n2 and n4 to form a rear trouser opening, and forming a middle-size rear trouser piece structure by p2, cuts y, o2, n4, n2, o1, p 35 1 and p;

3) drawing of large trousers

Taking a base point b of the length of the front big trousers, a base point b of the front big trousers opening, a width point b of the front big trousers opening, a base point r of the front middle big leg, a width point r of the front middle big leg, a side point q of the front big hip, a side point q of the front big waist, a width point q of the front big waist, a warping point h of the back big waist, a landing point h of the back big waist, a side point r of the back big hip, a base point r of the back middle big leg, a base point r of the back middle big middle leg, a width point r of the back middle big leg, a base point d of the mouth of the big trousers and a width point d of the mouth of the back big trousers, wherein qb and h1 are cn +10 cm in length, qq is cc +4.0 cm in length, h1h is a3a +4.0 cm in length, qq and h1r are cc + 1r +1.2 cm in length, r + 1.8 k + 1.5.5 g + 1.0, and rr + 1.4.0 g + 1.4.4.0 cm in length, and ee are c + 1g + 1.4.4 g + 1g +1.4 g + 1g +, b2b3 has a length of n1n3+4.12 cm, d1d2 has a length of f1f4+4.0 cm, qr4 ═ h1r has a length of ck +4.16 cm;

the corner point w on the crotch ruler is overlapped with a front waist opening large point q1, the front waist line is parallel to the rectangular dc edge, a curve q1l forms a crotch curve of a large-size front trouser piece, the curve is connected with cut openings l, r6 and b3 to form a crotch line of the large-size front trouser piece, the curve is connected with q2, r5 and b2 to form an outer side line of the large-size front trouser piece, the straight line is connected with b2 and b3 to form a front trouser opening, and q1, the cut openings l, r6, b3, b2, r5, q2 and q form a structure of the large-size front trouser piece;

the corner point s1 on the crotch ruler is overlapped with the large point h3 of the rear waist opening, the rear waist line is parallel to the side ab of the rectangle, the curve h3l forms the crotch curve of the large-size rear trouser piece, the curve is connected with the cut I, r3 and d2 to form the crotch line of the large-size rear trouser piece, the curve is connected with r2, r1 and d1 to form the outer side line of the large-size rear trouser piece, the straight line is connected with d2 and d1 to form the rear trouser opening, and the h3, the cut I, r3, d2, d1, r1, r2 and h1 form the structure of the large-size rear trouser piece;

the rear waist oblique measurement aa3, qp and hh1 of the large, medium and small pants are 2.0 centimeters long.

Furthermore, the crotch ruler modeling is finished by drawing and molding the structural shape of the front and rear crotch parts of the large, medium and small trousers, the crotch ruler structure comprises a front waist line, a front crotch curve, a rear crotch curve and an outer contour line, wherein a cut s, a t, an x, a y, a l, a m, a z, a u and a v are marked on an inner opening of the crotch ruler, a line segment from the cut t to the cut x is used for drawing a small-size rear trouser crotch curve, a line segment from the cut s to the cut y is used for drawing a medium-size rear trouser crotch curve, a line segment from a rear ruler outer angle s1 to a cut l is used for drawing a large-size rear trouser crotch curve, a line segment from the cut z to the cut u is used for drawing a small-size front trouser crotch curve, a line segment from the cut m to the cut v is used for drawing a medium-size front trouser crotch curve, a line segment from a front ruler outer angle w to the cut l is used for drawing a large-size front trouser crotch curve, the rear waist line and the rear crotch curve to form 102 degrees, and the front waist line and the front crotch curve to form 90 degrees.

Furthermore, the female body sizes corresponding to the large, medium and small trousers are 170/78A, 160/70A and 150/62A.

Further, drawing the front waist gather of the large, medium and small trousers, wherein the front waist gather comprises a point 1, a point 2, a point 3 and a point 4, the length of the point 1 and the point 2 is 3.0 centimeters, the length of the point 3 and the point 4 is 3.2 centimeters, and the cutting openings are formed at the point 1, the point 2, the point 3 and the point 4 for sewing.

Further, a small trousers line segment c point 1 is set to be 6.0 cm, a medium trousers line segment h point 1 is set to be 1+0.7 cm in length of the c point, and a large trousers line segment q point 1 is set to be 1+1.4 cm in length of the c point; the distance 2 between the parallel gathers of the pants having a small size and the t-shaped gathers, the distance 2, 3, is set to 4.45 cm, the distance 2, 3, is set to 4.45+0.35 cm, and the distance 2, 3, is set to 4.45+0.7 cm.

Further, drawing the waist dart of the rear waist of the large, medium and small trousers, wherein the rear waist dart comprises a point 5, a point 6, a point 7 and a point 8, the set point 5, the point 7 is that the width of the dart is 2.5 cm, the point 6, the point 8 is that the length of the central line of the dart is 8.0 cm, the central line of the dart is vertical to each rear waist slope line, and cutting openings are arranged at the point 7 of the respective dart point 5 for alignment sewing.

The invention has the beneficial effects that:

compared with the traditional trousers group tailoring, the female trousers tailoring in the simple layout mode belongs to a new tailoring method, including the tailoring method of large, medium and small trousers. The female body sizes corresponding to the cutting of the large, medium and small trousers are 170/78A, 160/70A and 150/62A, and the cutting pieces corresponding to the cutting of the large, medium and small trousers comprise the cutting of front and back small trousers pieces, the cutting of front and back medium trousers pieces and the cutting of front and back large trousers pieces. The cut pieces of the large, medium and small trousers are drawn and cut on the surface of the rectangular cloth according to the typesetting mode, wherein the large front trousers piece corresponding to the small rear trousers piece is corresponding to the medium rear trousers piece, and the small front trousers piece is corresponding to the large rear trousers piece. Drawing the trousers piece of the large, medium and small trousers by calculating the small size, and drawing the front and rear crotch parts of the trousers pieces of the large, medium and small trousers by a crotch ruler. The trousers piece drawing of the large, medium and small trousers is a wool-like drawing, and the tailoring does not need to put a seam. After the trousers pieces of the large, medium and small trousers are cut, dart (referring to the rear trousers piece) and pleat (referring to the front trousers piece) are drawn on the respective trousers pieces, and the method is worthy of popularization.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a schematic view of the structure of large, medium and small trousers pieces according to the present invention;

FIG. 2 is a schematic view of a crotch rule structure of the present invention;

FIG. 3 is a schematic view of a crotch ruler drawing the crotch structure of respective pant sheets;

FIG. 4 is a schematic diagram of the layout of large, medium and small trousers pieces according to the present invention;

FIG. 5 is a schematic diagram showing the cutting of large, medium and small trousers pieces according to the present invention;

fig. 6 is a drawing of the dart and pleat of the large, medium and small trousers piece of the present invention.

Detailed Description

The technical solutions of the present invention will be described clearly and completely with reference to specific embodiments of the present invention, and it should be understood that the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all of the embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.

A simple typesetting type tailoring method for female trousers comprises a tailoring method for large, medium and small trousers. The female body sizes corresponding to the cutting of the large, medium and small trousers are 170/78A, 160/70A and 150/62A, and the cutting pieces corresponding to the cutting of the large, medium and small trousers comprise the cutting of front and back small trousers pieces, the cutting of front and back medium trousers pieces and the cutting of front and back large trousers pieces. The cut-parts of big, medium and small trousers are drawn and cut on the surface of the rectangular cloth according to the typesetting mode, wherein the large front trousers piece corresponding to the small rear trousers piece is corresponding to the medium rear trousers piece, and the small front trousers piece is corresponding to the large rear trousers piece. Drawing the trousers pieces of the large, medium and small trousers in a small calculation mode, and drawing the front and rear crotch parts of the trousers pieces of the large, medium and small trousers by a crotch ruler. The trousers piece drawing of the large, medium and small trousers is a wool-like plate drawing, and the tailoring does not need to put sewing heads. Drawing dart (referring to the rear trousers piece) and pleat (referring to the front trousers piece) on the respective trousers pieces after the trousers pieces of the large, medium and small trousers are cut.

As shown in figure 1, the structure of the large, medium and small trousers pieces is drawn. Drawing a cloth rectangular structure, and drawing large, medium and small trousers piece structures on the rectangular structure. As shown in the figure, the large front trousers piece and the small rear trousers piece are arranged on the left side, the medium front trousers piece and the medium rear trousers piece are arranged in the middle of the cloth, and the small front piece and the large rear piece are arranged on the right side.

The rectangular upper left point a, the rectangular lower left point b, the rectangular lower right point c and the rectangular upper right point d form a rectangular fabric, the long side of the rectangular fabric is aa3+ a3f + fh + hh1+ h1 d-302.4 cm, and the wide side of the rectangular fabric is dd1+ d1d2+ d2c1+ c1 c-61.74 cm. The cutting of large, medium and small trousers is to arrange respective trousers pieces in a frame with cloth laid in a rectangular shape, wherein the trousers pieces comprise the following points: rectangle left upper point a, rectangle left lower point b, rectangle right lower point c, rectangle right upper point d, trumpet back waist warped point a2, trumpet back waist dropped point a3, trumpet back hip side point a1, trumpet back middle leg base point e, trumpet back middle leg retracting point e1, trumpet back trouser base point f1, trumpet back trouser mouth large point f4, trumpet back middle leg width point e2, trumpet front trouser base point b1, trumpet front trouser mouth retracting point b2, large front trouser mouth width point b3, large front middle leg base point r4, large front middle leg retracting point r5, large front middle leg width point r 8, large front hip side point q 6, large front waist side point q, large front trouser mouth width point 1, middle trouser mouth front trouser mouth retracting point f 27, large front middle leg width point r 4642, large front middle leg width point g 29, medium front middle leg width point g2, large front middle leg width point g3, medium trouser mouth point g, A middle-size rear waist drop point p, a middle-size rear waist warp point p2, a middle-size rear hip side point p1, a middle-size rear middle leg base point o, a middle-size rear middle leg retraction point o1, a middle-size rear middle leg width point o2, a middle-size rear trouser leg retraction point n2, a middle-size rear trouser leg width point n4, a large-size rear waist tilt point h3, a large-size rear waist drop point h1, a large-size rear hip side point r2, a large-size rear middle leg base point r, a large-size rear middle leg retraction point r1, a large-size rear middle leg width point r3, a large-size trouser leg retraction point d1, a large-size rear trouser leg width point d2, a small-size front long point n, a small-size front trouser leg retraction point n1, a small-size front trouser leg width point n2, a small-size front middle leg 63k, a small-size front middle leg retraction point k, a small-size front trouser leg c and a small-size front trouser leg c for drawing.

Wherein cn ═ a3f ═ 94.4 cm, the calculation method: 0.59X 160 (number). Front and rear waistline line segments cc1 and a3a2, the segment cc1 is 22.47 cm, the calculation method is as follows: 0.321 × 70 (type), line segment a3a2 is 20.79 cm, and the calculation method is as follows: 0.297X 70 (type). Front and back hip side line segments cc2 and a3a1, line segment cc2 ═ a3a1 ═ 15.33 cm, calculation method: 0.219X 70 (type). The front and rear middle leg contraction line segments kk1 and ee1, the line segment kk1 is 3.22 cm, and the calculation method is as follows: 0.046 × 70 (type), line ee1 ═ 4.55 cm, calculation method: 0.065X 70 (type). The front and back trouser openings are drawn into line segments nn1 and ff1, the line segment nn1 is 4.69 cm, and the calculation method is as follows: 0.067 × 70 (type), line segment ff1 ═ 7.7 cm, calculation method: 0.11X 70 (type). Front and rear middle leg width line segments k1k2 and e1e2, wherein the line segment k1k2 is 19.81 cm, and the calculation method comprises the following steps: 0.283 × 70 (type), line segment e1e2 is 25.62 cm, calculation method: 0.366X 70 (type). Front and back leg opening width line segments n1n3 and f1f4, wherein the line segment n1n3 is 16.94 cm, and the calculation method comprises the following steps: 0.242 × 70 (type), and the line segment f1f4 is 19.18 cm, the calculation method: 0.274X 70 (type). Front and back leg line position line segments ck and a3e, wherein the line segment ck is a3e is 53.92 cm, and the calculation method comprises the following steps: 0.337 × 160 (No.). The calculation method comprises the following steps of (1) calculating the length segments hf and pn of the front and rear trousers pieces, wherein the length segment hf is 99.4 centimeters that pn is 99.4 centimeters: cn +5.0 cm. Front and back waistline segments hh2 and pp2, segment hh2 is 24.47 cm, the calculation method: cc1+2.0 cm, and a segment pp 2-22.79 cm, and the calculation method is as follows: a3a2+2.0 cm. Front and back hip side line segments pp1 and hg3, the line segment pp 1-hg 3-15.93 cm, the calculation method: cc2+0.6 cm. The front and rear middle legs are drawn into line segments gg1 and oo1, the line segment gg1 is 3.62 centimeters, and the calculation method comprises the following steps: kk1+0.4 cm, line oo1 ═ 5.15 cm, the calculation method: ee1+0.6 cm. The front and back trouser openings are drawn into line segments ff2 and nn2, the line segment ff2 is 5.09 cm, and the calculation method is as follows: nn1+0.4 cm, line nn2 ═ 8.3 cm, calculated as: ff1+ 0.6. Front and rear middle leg width line segments g1g2 and o1o2, the line segment g1g2 being 21.87 cm, the calculation method: k1k2+2.06 cm, and the segment o1o2 is 27.62 cm, the calculation method is as follows: e1e2+2.0 cm. Front and back leg opening width line segments f2f3 and n2n4, wherein the line segment f2f3 is 19 cm, and the calculation method comprises the following steps: n1n3+2.06 cm, line segment n2n4 is 21.18 cm, and the calculation method is as follows: f1f4+2.0 cm. The calculation method comprises the following steps of (1) calculating line segments hg and po of the front and rear middle leg line positions, wherein the line segment hg is 56 centimeters and po is 56 centimeters: ck +2.08 cm. Front and back pant length segments qb1 and h1d, and segment qb 1-h 1 d-104.16 cm, the calculation method: cn +10 cm. Front and rear waist line segments qq1 and h1h3, the line segment qq1 is 26.47 cm, the calculation method is as follows: cc1+4.0 cm, line segment h1h3 is 24.79 cm, and the calculation method is as follows: a3a2+4.0 cm. Front and back hip side line segments qq2 and h1r2, the line segment qq 2-h 1r 2-16.53 cm, the calculation method: cc2+1.2 cm. The front and rear middle leg retraction line segments r4r5 and rr1, the line segment r4r5 is 4.02 cm, and the calculation method comprises the following steps: kk1+0.8 cm, line segment rr1 ═ 5.75 cm, the calculation method: ee1+1.2 cm. The front and back trouser openings are drawn into line segments b1b2 and dd1, the line segment b1b2 is 5.49 cm, and the calculation method comprises the following steps: nn1+0.8 cm, line dd1 ═ 8.3 cm, calculated as: ff1+ 1.2. Front and back middle leg width line segments r5r6 and r1r3, wherein the line segment r5r6 is 23.93 cm, and the calculation method comprises the following steps: k1k2+4.12 cm, line segment r1r3 is 29.62 cm, and the calculation method is as follows: e1e2+4.0 cm. Front and back leg opening width line segments b2b3 and d1d2, wherein the line segment b2b3 is 21.06 cm, and the calculation method comprises the following steps: n1n3+4.12 cm, and the line segment d1d2 is 23.18 cm, the calculation method is as follows: f1f4+4.0 cm. Front and rear leg line position line segments qr4 and h1r, and the line segment qr4 ═ h1r ═ 58.08 cm, the calculation method: ck +4.16 cm.

The rear waist-mouth diagonal measurements aa3, qp and hh1 for the large, medium and small pants were 2.0 centimeters in length.

As shown in fig. 2, a crotch rule was produced. The crotch ruler is manufactured by a molding method and is made of plastic materials. The crotch ruler modeling is completed by drawing and molding the structural forms of the front and rear crotch parts of the large, medium and small trousers. The crotch ruler structure comprises front and rear waist lines, front and rear crotch curves, outer contour lines and a crotch ruler inner opening, wherein cut openings s, t, x, y, l, m, z, u and v are marked on the cut openings t to the cut opening x, and the line segment from the cut opening t to the cut opening x is used for drawing the crotch curve of the small-size rear trousers. The line segment from the cut s to the cut y is the crotch curve of the middle rear trouser piece. The line segment from the rear ruler external angle s1 to the cut l is used for drawing the crotch curve of the large-size rear trouser piece. The line segment from the cut z to the cut u is used for drawing the crotch curve of the front small trousers. The line segment from the cut m to the cut v is used for drawing the crotch curve of the middle front trouser. The line segment from the outer angle w of the front ruler to the cut l is used for drawing the crotch curve of the large front trousers. The back waist line and the back crotch curve form an angle of 102 degrees, and the back waist line is a line segment for drawing the back crotch curve. The front waist line forms an angle of 90 degrees with the front crotch curve, and the front waist line is a line segment for drawing the front crotch curve.

As shown in fig. 3, the crotch ruler is used for drawing the crotch structure of front and back trousers pieces of large, medium and small-sized trousers, and the crotch of the front trousers pieces of small-sized trousers is curved: the cut u on the crotch ruler is superposed with the large point c1 of the front waist opening, so that the front waist line of the crotch ruler is parallel to the side of the rectangle dc, and the pinball pen is used for drawing the crotch curve of the front small-size trousers and drawing the crotch curve to the cut z. And (3) crotch bending drawing of the middle front trousers: setting the cut v on the crotch ruler to coincide with the front waist opening large point h2, keeping the front waist line of the crotch ruler parallel to the side of the rectangle dc, drawing the crotch curve of the middle front trouser piece by using a chalk, and drawing to the cut m. And (3) crotch bending drawing of the large front trousers: setting the angle point w on the crotch ruler to coincide with the front waist opening large point q1, keeping the front waist line of the crotch ruler parallel to the side of the rectangle dc, drawing the crotch curve of the large front trouser piece by using a chalk, and drawing to the cut I. And (3) crotch bending drawing of the small rear trousers: setting a cut t on the crotch ruler to coincide with a rear waist opening large point a2, keeping the rear waist line of the crotch ruler parallel to the ab edge of the rectangle, drawing the crotch curve of the small-size rear trouser piece by using a chalk, and drawing the crotch curve onto the cut x. And (3) crotch bending drawing of the middle rear trousers: and setting a cut s on the crotch ruler to coincide with a back waist opening large point p2, keeping the back waist line of the crotch ruler parallel to the ab edge of the rectangle, drawing the crotch curve of the middle-size back trouser piece by using a chalk, and drawing the crotch curve to the cut y. And (3) crotch bending drawing of the large-size rear trousers: setting the corner point s1 on the crotch ruler to coincide with the back waist opening large point h3, keeping the back waist line of the crotch ruler parallel to the ab edge of the rectangle, drawing the crotch curve of the large-size back trouser piece by using a chalk, and drawing the crotch curve to the cut opening l.

As shown in fig. 4 to 5, a crotch ruler is adopted, a cut u on the crotch ruler is overlapped with a front waist large point c1, a front waist line of the crotch ruler is parallel to a rectangular dc edge, a curve uz forms a crotch curve of a small-size front trouser piece, a curve section is used for connecting cut z, k2 and n3 to form a crotch line of the small-size front trouser piece, a curve section is connected with c2, k1 and n1 to form an outer side line of the small-size front trouser piece, a straight line is connected with n1 and n3 to form a front trouser opening, and c1, cut z, k2, n3, n1, k1, c2 and c form a structure of the small-size front trouser piece.

The crotch ruler cut t is overlapped with a back waist opening large point a2, the back waist line is parallel to the side ab of the rectangle, the curve a2x forms the crotch curve of the back trousers piece with the curve connecting the cut x, e2 and f4 forming the crotch line of the back trousers piece with the curve, the curve connecting points a1, e and f1 forming the outer side line of the back trousers piece with the small size, the straight line connecting f1 and f4 forming the back trousers opening, and the a2, the cut x, e2, f4, f1, e1, a1 and a3 forming the structure of the back trousers piece with the small size.

The cut v on the crotch ruler is overlapped with the front waist opening large point h2, the front waist line is parallel to the rectangular dc edge, the curve h2m forms the crotch curve of the middle-size front trouser piece, the curve is connected with the cuts m, g2 and f3 to form the crotch line of the middle-size front trouser piece, the curve is connected with g3, g1 and f2 to form the outer side line of the middle-size front trouser piece, the straight connecting points f2 and f3 form the front trouser opening, and h2, the cuts m, g2, f3, f2, g1, g3 and h form the structure of the middle-size front trouser piece.

The cuts s on the crotch ruler are overlapped with the back waist opening large point p2, the back waist line is parallel to the side ab of the rectangle, the curve p2y forms the crotch curve of the middle-size back trouser piece, the curve connects the cuts y, o2 and n4 to form the crotch line of the middle-size back trouser piece, the curve connects p1, o1 and n2 to form the outer side line of the middle-size back trouser piece, the straight line connects n2 and n4 to form the back trouser opening, and the p2, the cuts y, o2, n4, n2, o1, p 35 1 and p form the structure of the middle-size back trouser piece.

The angular point w on the crotch ruler is overlapped with a front waist opening large point q1, the front waist line is parallel to the rectangular dc edge, a curve q1l forms a crotch curve of the large-size front trouser piece, the curve is connected with cut openings l, r6 and b3 to form a crotch line of the large-size front trouser piece, the curve is connected with q2, r5 and b2 to form an outer side line of the large-size front trouser piece, the straight line is connected with b2 and b3 to form a front trouser opening, and q1, the cut openings l, r6, b3, b2, r5, q2 and q form a structure of the large-size front trouser piece.

The corner point s1 on the crotch ruler is overlapped with the large point h3 of the rear waist opening, the rear waist line is parallel to the side ab of the rectangle, the curve h3l forms the crotch curve of the large-size rear trouser piece, the curve is connected with the cut I, r3 and d2 to form the crotch line of the large-size rear trouser piece, the curve is connected with r2, r1 and d1 to form the outer side line of the large-size rear trouser piece, the straight line is connected with d2 and d1 to form the rear trouser opening, and the h3, the cut I, r3, d2, d1, r1, r2 and h1 form the structure of the large-size rear trouser piece.

As shown in FIG. 6, the structure drawing of the waist opening vocal tract and the pleat of the front and the back trousers pieces of large, medium and small trousers is shown. The front panel gathers include points 1, 2, 3, and 4 (the large, medium, and small points are the same in name, and are on each panel), set point 1 point 2 (shaped as a parallel gather) is 3.0 cm, and point 3 point 4 (shaped as a t-shaped gather) is 3.2 cm. And (4) cutting openings are formed at the points 1, 2, 3 and 4 for sewing. The small-size line segment c point 1 is set to be 6.0 cm, the medium-size line segment h point 1 is set to be c point 1+0.7 is set to be 6.7 cm, and the large-size line segment q point 1 is set to be c point 1+1.4 is set to be 7.4 cm. The distance 2 between the small parallel pleats and the t-shaped pleats, 3 between the 2 between the middle parallel pleats and the t-shaped pleats, 4.45+0.35 between the 4.8 cm and the 2 between the large parallel pleats and the t-shaped pleats, 3 between the 4.45+0.7 between the large parallel pleats and the t-shaped pleats, 5.15 cm. The parallel pleats and the t-shaped pleats are pleated in a form of parallel pleats and t-shaped pleats by ironing with an iron. And drawing the waist dart of the back piece of the large, medium and small trousers, wherein the waist dart of the back piece comprises a point 5, a point 6, a point 7 and a point 8 (the names of the large, medium and small trousers are the same, and the points are on the respective trousers pieces), the set point 5, the point 7 is the width of the dart, and the point 6, the point 8 is the length of the central line of the dart. The width of the dart of the large, medium and small trousers is equal, namely, the point 5 and the point 7 are 2.5 cm. The dart lengths are equal, i.e. 8.0 cm at point 6. The central lines are vertical to the slope lines of the respective back waists, the dart structures are triangular, and the notches are cut at the 5 points and 7 points of the respective dart points for alignment sewing.

Although embodiments of the present invention have been shown and described, it will be appreciated by those skilled in the art that changes, modifications, substitutions and alterations can be made in these embodiments without departing from the principles and spirit of the invention, the scope of which is defined in the appended claims and their equivalents.