阅读说明：本技术 Réotier水用于限制污染物的皮肤渗透的用途 (Use of reotier water for limiting the cutaneous penetration of pollutants ) 是由 瓦莱丽·塞尼佐 帕斯卡尔·波尔特斯 于 2019-09-03 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明涉及一种用于限制一种或多种污染剂的皮肤渗透的美容方法,所述方法包括将美容组合物应用于皮肤,所述美容组合物包含Réotier水或由Réotier水组成。(The invention relates to a cosmetic process for limiting the skin penetration of one or more contaminating agents, comprising the application to the skin of a cosmetic composition comprising or consisting of reotier water.)

1. A cosmetic method for limiting the skin penetration of one or more contaminating agents, comprising the application to the skin of a cosmetic composition comprising or consisting of reotier water.

2. The method of claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises from 1% to 100% by weight of reotier water.

3. The method of claim 1 or 2, wherein the composition is applied in the form of a mist.

4. The method of claim 2, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises from 1% to 30% by weight of reotier water.

5. The process according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the polluting agent is selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbons, preferably Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons (PAH), volatile organic compounds, metals (such as lead, mercury, cadmium), and fine or ultra-fine particles such as PM10 (less than 10 μm in diameter) and PM2.5 (less than 2.5 μm in diameter).

Cosmetic use of reotier water as an anti-fouling agent.

Background

In everyday environments, especially in urban environments, the skin of an individual is subject to numerous attacks by atmospheric pollutants.

The major urban pollutants that can have adverse effects on the skin are toxic gases, heavy metals, Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons (PAHs) and particles that are combustion residues and have adsorbed thereon large amounts of organic and inorganic compounds.

Thus, toxic gases, such as ozone, carbon monoxide, nitrogen oxides or sulfur oxides, promote the exfoliation of materials composed of keratin, such as the skin or hair; making it dull and unclean. Heavy metals such as mercury, cadmium or lead, also known as atmospheric pollutants, have significantly increased emissions. In fact, some metals can penetrate into the skin and accumulate therein.

Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons are generally adsorbed on the surface of particles produced by combustion and also on dust originating from the urban atmosphere, which can penetrate into the skin, accumulate therein or be biologically converted therein.

These contaminants can interfere with the normal function of lipids, DNA or proteins in human skin and promote skin aging through oxidative effects. They also affect skin color; carbon monoxide will mix with oxygen in the blood, causing the skin to change color, which will appear more gray. Finally, high exposure to exhaust or contaminated smoke, as well as exposure to indoor pollutants such as cigarette smoke or heating, can lead to dry and stinging skin.

Disclosure of Invention

The present inventors have now identified new properties of reotier water, which they propose to be beneficial for use in anti-pollution cosmetic applications.

The subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic process for limiting the skin penetration of one or more polluting agents, comprising the application to the skin of a cosmetic composition comprising or consisting of reotier water.

This effect is particularly rapid and allows immediate protection against the penetration of contaminating agents.

The invention therefore relates to the cosmetic use of reotier water as an anti-soiling agent.

According to the invention, the topical application of reotier water can combat the harmful effects of pollution on the skin, including skin damage caused by the presence of oxidizing agents and free radicals, as well as dull skin tone or lack of radiance.

Thus, by topical application to the skin, reotier water can be used to prevent or treat damage to the epidermal structure of the skin caused by contamination.

The reotier water can be used directly in the form of a spray, or in any form suitable for topical application to the skin, and in particular in the form of a cream, lotion, gel, mask, paste or film. The reotier water may be included in particular in leave-on compositions, in particular care compositions, cosmetic compositions such as foundations, or sunscreen compositions.

Drawings

FIG. 1 kinetic change of impedance of explants after treatment with Raotier water (hours) relative to untreated explants. Data were normalized to control skin explants at T0. Data represent mean ± standard deviation values of triplicates of three donors and were analyzed by two-way analysis of variance (Anova) (. x.p < 0.0001).

Figure 2 mean kinetic change of impedance (hours) of skin explants from three donors after treatment with reotier water and application of contaminants. Impedance measurements were performed on explants (T0), and then a zeotier mist was applied to certain Explants (EDR). After 24 hours (T24), impedance measurements were again taken and a mixture of contaminants was then applied to the explant surface. The final impedance measurements were then made at 48 hours (T48) for this explant. Four explants from each donor were used for control explants (CT), explants with application of only the contaminant (P), explants with application of only the reotide water (EDR) and, finally, explants with application of reotide water and then the contaminant (EDR + P).

Fig. 3. skin sample: HPLC determination of dibenzoanthracene contaminants on the surface, stratum corneum, epidermis and dermis. Measurement of controls with contaminant (P) only and of skin explants subjected to reotier water (EDR + P).

Fig. 4. skin sample: HPLC determination of benzo [ alpha ] pyrene contaminants on the surface, stratum corneum, epidermis and dermis. Measurement of controls with contaminant (P) only and of skin explants subjected to reotier water (EDR + P).

Detailed Description

Reotier water

Reotier water is a natural water of deep origin with a constant physicochemical composition. The source of reotier water is located in reotier city, Hautes-Alpes, france, at an altitude of about 910 meters. The water flowing out of the hot spring nearby permeates into the soil and rises again, so that the mineral is enriched. The table below describes the constant composition of reotier water.

Table: ion composition of Riotier Water (mg/l)

Therefore, reotier water is characterized by a high mineral content, in particular a calcium, sodium, magnesium and strontium content.

Galenic form

The reotier water may be applied in the form of a mist (which may be sprayed, generally by means of an atomiser or a vaporiser), or in any galenic form suitable for topical or cutaneous application, optionally as a mixture with cosmetically acceptable excipients.

Cosmetic compositions thus formulated may generally comprise from 1 to 100% by weight of reotier water. For example, it may be a mist comprising 100% of R é ote water, or a composition comprising from 1 to 95% by weight, preferably from 1 to 90% by weight, preferably from 1 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 70% by weight, from 1 to 60% by weight, from 1 to 50% by weight, from 1 to 40% by weight, from 1 to 30% by weight, from 1 to 20% by weight, from 1 to 10% by weight or from 1 to 5% by weight of R é ote water. In a preferred embodiment, the galenic composition comprises from 1 to 30% by weight or from 1 to 10% by weight of reotier water.

Thus, solid, liquid or semisolid formulations may be used, such as creams, emulsions, balms, foams, lotions, essences, gels or gel creams. The reotide water can thus be formulated in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, a multiple emulsion, an aqueous solution, a water-alcoholic or water-glycolic acid solution, or an aqueous dispersion. The reotier water can be incorporated in various products intended for skin care and/or make-up, such as moisturizing care products or foundations, or for cleansing the skin, such as lotions, gels or make-up removers, masks, or in hair care and/or shampoo products, such as shampoos and conditioners, etc.

In a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition is in the form of a hydrogel or an oil-in-water emulsion.

The aqueous phase then contains reotier water and optionally deionized water and/or at least one component selected from polyols and aqueous gelling agents. Advantageously, the water represents in total from 40 to 95%, preferably from 40 to 90%, of the total weight of the composition. The polyol may be chosen in particular from glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol and mixtures thereof, and may represent from 5 to 30% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

In a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition is a gel comprising from 40 to 95% by weight of reotier water.

The term "aqueous gelling agent" denotes a polymeric compound capable of fixing water molecules by becoming hydrated and thereby increasing the viscosity of the aqueous phase. Such gelling agents may be selected from: polysaccharides, for example: cellulose and its derivatives, modified starches, carrageenan, agar, xanthan and vegetable gums such as guar gum or locust bean gum; synthetic polymers, in particular optionally crosslinked copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic Acid (AMPS) with vinylpyrrolidone, sodium acrylate homopolymers, and acrylic acid copolymers, in particular copolymers of sodium acrylate and its derivatives, and/or of alkyl (meth) acrylates and/or hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates and/or (polyethoxy) alkyl (meth) acrylates with optionally at least one other monomer, advantageously 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic Acid (AMPS), these copolymers being optionally crosslinked; and mixtures thereof.

When present, the fatty phase may comprise one or more volatile and/or non-volatile oils. Examples of volatile oils are branched alkanes, such as isododecane, and C₁₀-C₁₃Linear alkanes of (1). As non-volatileOils, among which mention may be made in particular of:

-esters of acids and monoalcohols selected from: c of saturated straight chain₂-C₁₀(preferably C)₆-C₁₀) Acids and saturated straight-chain C₁₀-C₁₈(preferably C)₁₀-C₁₄) Monoesters and polyesters of monohydric alcohols, saturated linear C₁₀-C₂₀Acids and branched or unsaturated C₃-C₂₀(preferably C)₃-C₁₀) Monoesters and polyesters of monohydric alcohols; branched or unsaturated C₅-C₂₀Acids and branched or unsaturated C₅-C₂₀Monoesters and polyesters of monohydric alcohols; branched or unsaturated C₅-C₂₀Acids and straight chains C₂-C₄Monoesters and polyesters of monohydric alcohols;

-C₆-C₁₂triglycerides of fatty acids, such as caprylic and capric triglycerides and triheptanoin;

-branched and/or unsaturated C₁₀-C₂₀Fatty acids (e.g., linoleic acid, lauric acid, and myristic acid);

-branched and/or unsaturated C₁₀-C₂₀Fatty alcohols (e.g., octyl dodecanol and oleyl alcohol);

hydrocarbons, such as squalane (C30), in particular the plant squalane extracted from olive oil, and squalane half-angle (C15);

dialkyl carbonates, such as dioctyl carbonate and diethylhexyl carbonate;

dialkyl ethers, such as dioctyl ether; and

-mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of vegetable oils containing one or more of the above-mentioned ingredients.

As esters of acids and monoalcohols, mention may in particular be made of monoesters, such as a mixture of coco decanoate and caprylate, ethyl macadamia oleate, ethyl shea butter, isostearyl isostearate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl isononanoate, hexyl pivalate, ethylhexyl pivalate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isodecyl pivalate, isopropyl myristate, octyl dodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, hexyl laurate, isopentyl laurate, cetyl stearyl pelargonate, propyl heptyl caprylate, and mixtures thereof. Other esters which may be used are diesters of acids and monoalcohols, such as diisopropyl adipate, diethylhexyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate and diisoamyl sebacate.

Examples of vegetable oils are in particular wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, argan oil, hibiscus oil, coriander oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, almond oil, castor oil, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia nut oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, sesame oil, cucurbit oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, lavender oil, borage oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion flower oil, rose musk oil, echium oil, flax mustard oil or camellia oil.

The fatty phase may also comprise at least one fatty phase structuring agent. The term "fatty phase structuring agent" means a compound capable of thickening the oils contained in the composition, chosen in particular from waxes, fatty phase gelling agents and pasty fatty substances, and mixtures thereof.

The composition may also contain at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular another anti-soiling agent, such as a polysaccharide-based film-forming polymer capable of forming an anti-soiling protective film, in particular from Solabia under the trade nameAndproducts sold, humectants, e.g. hyaluronic acid, urea or by SEPPIC under the trade name SEPPICA mixture of xylitol-based glucosides, xylitol and anhydroxylitol sold; exfoliating agents, such as alpha-and beta-hydroxy acids; and mixtures thereof.

The compositions may also contain various ingredients that are dispersible in the fatty phase and/or the aqueous phase of the emulsion, provided that the ingredients do not interfere with topical application to the skin.

Thus, it may contain at least one emulsifier of the generally non-ionic type of oil-in-water or water-in-oil type, such as polyoxyethylene esters, optionally polyethoxylated sorbitan esters, optionally polyethoxylated esters of fatty acids and glycerol, ethers of fatty alcohols and sugars, such as alkyl glucosides, and mixtures thereof. The emulsifier may represent from 2 to 10%, preferably from 4 to 6% by weight of the total composition.

The composition may also comprise additives, in particular selected from organic and/or inorganic photoprotective agents, active towards blue light and/or UVA and/or UVB; exfoliating the particles; a fragrance; an antioxidant; a chelating agent; a pH adjusting agent; a preservative; a filler; a pigment; a dye; and mixtures thereof.

The composition used in the present invention may be applied to at least one area of the body of the individual exposed to the contaminating agent, and more particularly to the face, lips, neck and/or collar. As a variant or in addition, it can be applied to the hand or arm, to the lower leg and to the foot.

The composition may be applied to the target area once or more times a day, for example in the morning and/or evening.

Polluting agents

The polluting agents mainly include atmospheric pollutants.

Atmospheric pollutants are pollutants present in the environment, particularly in the form of respirable particles and gases. They may be present outdoors, for example diesel engine particles, ozone or heavy metals, and/or indoors, where the contamination may be attributable in particular to cigarette smoke or solvents released by paints, adhesives or wallpaper, for example toluene, styrene, xylene, benzaldehyde.

Among the pollutants present in the environment, primary pollutants originating directly from pollution sources (road traffic, industry, heating, agriculture, etc.) are distinguished from secondary pollutants originating from the chemical reaction of gases with each other. In the first time of pollutionAmong the compounds, mention may be made of carbon oxides (CO and CO)₂) Nitrogen oxides (e.g. NO, NO)₂) Sulfur oxides (e.g. SO, SO)₂) Hydrocarbons, more particularly Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons (PAH), volatile organic compounds, metals (e.g. lead, mercury, cadmium), and fine or ultrafine particles, such as PM10 (less than 10 μm in diameter) and PM2.5 (less than 2.5 μm in diameter). The latter may be particularly toxic due to their ability to penetrate deeply, their size being smaller than the pore size of human skin. PM2.5 particles are produced by diesel engines, coal combustion and cigarette smoke.

The present invention may limit (slow or reduce) skin penetration of one or more contaminating agents by applying reotier water to the skin.

The invention is particularly useful for limiting the penetration of PAHs such as benzopyrene and particulates, particularly PM10 and PM2.5 particles.

The following examples are given purely by way of illustration and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention.

Examples

Example 1: preparation

Examples of formulations are provided below (percentages expressed by weight of the composition).

Cream example:

examples of moisturizing gels:

example 2: evaluation of the resistance of skin explants (quality of impedance)

Materials and methods

Impedance measurement:

principle: two electrodes were placed on either side of the skin disc before the current (100Hz) was applied. Impedance measures the resistance of the skin to the passage of current. The more damaged the skin, the lower its resistance to electrical current. It is measured in Ω.

Program: each skin segment was deposited on a first electrode having cotton wool impregnated with saline solution (PBS). 100 μ l PBS was deposited on the skin surface. The second electrode is then brought into contact with the PBS, closing the circuit and performing the measurement.

Skin explants from three different donors (42, 55 and 55 year old women) were treated on the day of operation. For each test condition, four discs of 2.2cm in diameter were punched out of the skin of each donor (n-12 for each condition). Reotier water was sprayed onto half of the skin explants. Skin explants were then placed on 6-well culture plates at the gas-liquid interface. The culture medium was changed every two days and R é ote water was further sprayed. The transepidermal resistance measurements are taken after 5 hours, 10 hours, 3 days or 7 days.

Results

The results of transepidermal resistance measurements of skin explants are shown in figure 1.

Surprisingly, after only one treatment with reotier water, the transepidermal resistance rapidly increased by 30% 5 hours after treatment and then stabilized until day 7 (168 hours, P < 0.0001). In contrast, control skin explants decreased slightly in epidermal resistance in culture and then stabilized after 10 hours (89% of the value of T0 at day 7).

Example 3: evaluation of the Effect of Riotier Water on impedance in the Presence of a contaminating agent

Materials and methods

To test the effectiveness of reotier water in contaminant penetration, tests were performed in which contaminants were applied to skin explants. Some explants were sprayed with a zeotier mist 24 hours before application of the contaminants. At T0, 24h, and 48h, the resistance (impedance quality) of the skin was measured, reflecting the penetration of contaminants in the various layers of the skin.

1. Skin segment

Three skin explants were used for each section within one hour after the procedure of removing the hypodermis from the explant with a scalpel. The skin surface was carefully cleaned with distilled water to remove traces of blood.

2. Preparation of contaminants

A mixture of contaminants was prepared from the following various solutions:

PM2.5 solution (Fine particles with a diameter of less than 2.5. mu.m)

-PM10 solution (fine particles with a diameter of less than 10 μm)

-benzo-alpha-pyrene solution (2mg/ml)

Dibenzoanthracene solution (1mg/ml)

-benzene

The PM2.5 and 10 solutions were obtained by extracting sample trays in distilled water (24 trays/40 ml).

A mixture of the following solutions:

12.5. mu.l of PM2.5 solution

12.5. mu.l of PM10 solution

25. mu.l of benzo-. alpha. -pyrene solution (2mg/ml)

25. mu.l of a dibenzoanthracene solution (1mg/ml)

10. mu.l of benzene

3. Viability, impedance and histology studies

3.1. Preparation of explants

12 discs with a diameter of 2.2cm were obtained using a punch apparatus. The explants were placed in a bath containing antibiotics and antifungal agents for 30 minutes. They were placed in 6-well plate culture inserts containing 2.5ml of the specialized medium and placed in an incubator at 37 ℃.

3.2. Treatment of explants (T0)

The next day, each explant was placed on a wipe. The impedance is measured. After the measurement, a lyoier mist was applied by three successive spraying operations. The disc was placed back into the culture insert containing fresh medium and left for 15 minutes in a fume hood with the lid open. When the explants were dry, they were placed in 5% CO at 37 deg.C₂In an incubator.

Four groups are thus formed:

-control: no fogging agent and no pollution

-contamination: no fogging agent and deposition pollution

-reotier aerosol: spraying reotier fog agent without pollution

-pollution + reotier aerosol: spraying reotier fog agent to deposit pollution.

3.3. Treatment of explants (T24h)

The next day, each explant was placed on a wipe. The impedance is measured. After the measurement, a lyoier mist was applied by three successive spraying operations. After 15 minutes under a fume hood, a mixture of contaminants (85 μ Ι) was added to the discs. The explants were placed in the insert and then placed in an incubator.

3.4. Treatment of explants (T48h)

The next day, each explant was placed on a wipe. The impedance is measured. A punch piece (punch) having a diameter of 3mm was placed in an Eppendorf tube for cell viability measurement.

4. Skin penetration study

4.1. Preparation of explants

The skin from three donors was treated with a dermatome (that is, the thickness of the skin was reduced to epidermis and part of dermis) and then seven discs with a diameter of 2.2cm were obtained using a punch apparatus. After the thickness of the wafer was measured, it was mounted on K-In a system. K-Is a ready-to-use kit for human skin and is composed of a circular medical polymer insert. Then, the discs were placed in Proviskin D-In a system.

4.2. Treatment of explants (T0)

The next day, each K-skin was placed on a wipe. By thrice and connectionA subsequent spraying operation is used to apply the reotier mist. The disc was placed back in the D-skin system with fresh medium and left for 15 minutes in a fume hood with the lid open. When the explants were dry, they were placed in 5% CO at 37 deg.C₂In an incubator.

Four groups are thus formed:

-control: no fogging agent and no pollution (n ═ 3)

-contamination: no fogging agent, deposition pollution (n ═ 3)

-reotier aerosol: spraying reotier fog agent without pollution (n is 3)

-pollution + reotier aerosol: spraying reotier fog, depositing pollution (n ═ 3)

4.3. Treatment of explants (T24h)

The next day, each K-skin was placed on a wipe. The reotier mist was applied by three consecutive spraying operations. After 15 minutes under a fume hood, a mixture of contaminants (85 μ Ι) was added to the discs. The incubation mixture was replaced with PBS containing 6% PEG. The K-skins were placed in D-skins and then placed in an incubator. After 4h, 6h, 8h, 10h, 12h and 24h of incubation, 500 μ l of medium was removed for contaminant determination. The samples were stored at-20 ℃ until assayed. Add 500. mu.l PBS to the wells.

4.4. Treatment of explants (T48h)

After taking the final sample, the surface of each skin was swabbed to remove the amount of contaminants from the skin surface. Mixing D-squameAn adhesive disc is applied to the surface of each disc. Each stratum corneum adhesive disc was placed into a 20ml glass tube. Dermal-epidermal separation was performed with forceps. The tissues thus isolated were weighed and then stored at-20 ℃ until they were processed.

Results

Measuring the impedance quality (or TEER (trans-epidermal resistance)) allows to assess the cytobypass permeability of the epidermis, that is to say the passage of fluids and ions between the cells of the epidermis. This increase in resistance is associated with a better function of the tight connection and a higher impermeability of the epidermis.

The average of the results obtained on skin explants from three donors is shown in figure 2. After equilibration in the incubator for 24 hours, the explants (T0) were subjected to impedance measurements, and a lyoier mist was then applied to some Explants (EDR). After 24 hours (T24), the impedance measurement was again performed. It revealed a slight increase in the resistance of the explants after the application of the aerosol.

Then, after the measurement at T24, a mixture of contaminants was applied to the surface of the explant, which was placed in culture, and then impedance measurements were taken at 48 hours (T48). Two-way analysis of variance (ANOVA) was performed on the mean of three donors (fig. 2). The following results can be observed:

contamination leads to a decrease in the impedance value. Between times P-T48 and P-T0, the results were significant (. P < 0.05). This decrease in impedance was not observed on control skin, skin treated with reotier water, or skin treated with reotier water and applied with contaminants.

Treatment with reotier water leads to an increase in the impedance quality: indeed, EDR-T24h differs significantly from EDR-T0 (. + -. p <0.01)

These results show that the prior treatment of the skin with reotier water prevents the breakdown of the skin barrier caused by contaminants and observed by the decrease in skin impedance.

Example 4: evaluation of the Effect of Raotier Water on the penetration of contaminants in the layers of the skin by High Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC)

Materials and methods

In this case, the impedance was measured under the same operating conditions as in example 1.

Samples corresponding to the surface, stratum corneum, epidermis and dermis were subjected to contaminant extraction. 1.5ml of extraction solvent (50/50 acetone/water) was placed in each tube and then stirred for 24 hours. The sample was then filtered and then injected into an HPLC column.

Analysis conditions: the analysis conditions were as follows:

-a mobile phase: water/acetonitrile (gradient)

-a column: c18,5 μm 25cm x 4.6mm

-flow rate: 1.2ml/min

-volume of sample injection: 20 μ l

-T℃：30℃

-wavelength: 254nm

Results

Figure 3 shows the results of HPLC determination of dibenzoanthracene contaminants in the various layers of the skin. Statistical tests were performed (paired t-test (. p <0.05)).

Table: determination of Dibenzanthracene (. mu.g)

FIG. 4 shows the HPLC assay of benzo- α -pyrene contaminants in various layers of the skin. Statistical tests (paired t-tests (. p <0.05 and. p <0.01)) were performed.

Table: measurement of benzopyrene (μ g)

The two contaminants determined in this study were found in the same manner in the wash liquor (not adsorbed). In the cuticle of explants pretreated with reotier mist, their detection was significantly reduced. This protection against the penetration of contaminants is also effective in the epidermis after exfoliation (containing the living epidermis as well as the stratum corneum).

These results show that treatment with reotier water before application of the contaminants can limit their penetration.