阅读说明：本技术 亚麻面料免烫性提升的加工工艺 (Processing technology for improving non-ironing property of linen fabric ) 是由 齐元章 宋琳 张艳 张战旗 许秋生 王桂艳 杨玲玲 *** 于 2020-07-30 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明属于纺织印染技术领域,具体涉及一种亚麻面料免烫性提升的加工工艺。经纬纱均采用亚麻纱线,将亚麻坯布经烧毛→退煮→特漂→湿布烘干→液氨→增白洗→超柔软→潮交联→潮交联水洗→拉幅,即得。本发明生产方式具有连续性,可以实现大货的连续化生产,超柔软采用三种助剂协同搭配使用,可提升面料的吸水性能及手感,增大麻类面料对潮交联树脂的带液率,结合超柔软工序的特性,增加面料的屈曲度,面料经过树脂整理后,面料免烫性达到3.2级。本发明拉幅选用对亚麻面料手感提升较大的两种柔软剂进行复配,同时搭配甲醛捕捉剂,使得面料甲醛含量≤20ppm,使面料手感会更加柔软,穿着舒适,既提升面料手感,又使面料健康环保。(The invention belongs to the technical field of textile printing and dyeing, and particularly relates to a processing technology for improving the non-ironing property of linen fabric. And (3) adopting linen yarns as the warps and the wefts, and carrying out singeing → desizing → extra bleaching → wet cloth drying → liquid ammonia → whitening and washing → ultra-soft → damp crosslinking and washing → tentering on linen grey cloth. The production method has continuity, the continuous production of large goods can be realized, the super-soft fabric adopts three auxiliaries to be cooperatively matched for use, the water absorption performance and the hand feeling of the fabric can be improved, the liquid carrying rate of the linen fabric to moisture cross-linked resin is increased, the bending degree of the fabric is increased by combining the characteristics of the super-soft process, and the non-ironing property of the fabric reaches 3.2 grade after the fabric is subjected to resin finishing. According to the invention, two softeners which greatly improve the hand feeling of the linen fabric are selected for combination in stentering, and the formaldehyde catching agent is matched, so that the formaldehyde content of the linen fabric is less than or equal to 20ppm, the fabric is softer in hand feeling and comfortable to wear, the hand feeling of the fabric is improved, and the fabric is healthy and environment-friendly.)

1. A processing technology for improving the non-ironing property of flax fabric is characterized in that: and (3) adopting linen yarns as the warps and the wefts, and carrying out singeing → desizing → extra bleaching → wet cloth drying → liquid ammonia → whitening and washing → ultra-soft → damp crosslinking and washing → tentering on linen grey cloth.

2. The linen fabric non-ironing-free processing technology according to claim 1, characterized in that: in the feed liquid used in the super-soft process: fatty acid hydrophilic reactivator QQ-N: 3-6 g/L, heat-reactive polyurethane softener RPU: 20-30 g/L, polyamino hydroxyl derivative humectant PN 94: 1-3 g/L.

3. The linen fabric non-ironing-free processing technology according to claim 1, characterized in that: the super-soft process comprises the following steps: vehicle speed: 15-25 m/min, temperature: 110-130 ℃, main fan air volume: 70-80%, and the air volume of a lower fan: 45-55%, air volume of airing exhaust: 70-80%.

4. The linen fabric non-ironing-free processing technology according to claim 1, characterized in that: in the feed liquid used in the damp crosslinking procedure: resin auxiliary AMC: 100-140 g/L, resin catalyst LRMC: 50-70 g/L, fiber protective agent ACN: 20-30 g/L of hydrophilic linear polysilicone oil TF-4911: 1-3 g/L, 1-3 g/L of penetrant SN-10.

5. The linen fabric non-ironing-free processing technology according to claim 1, characterized in that: the step of moisture crosslinking comprises the following steps: on a tenter, speed: 30-40 m/min, air quantity in the drying room: 45-55%, the air quantity under the drying room is 35-45%, and overfeeding: 4-7%, cropping humidity: 16-20% and the cropping temperature is controlled between 30-35 ℃.

6. The linen fabric non-ironing-free processing technology according to claim 1, characterized in that: in the feed liquid used in the tentering process: multicomponent copolymerization block organosilicon emulsion softener TF-4865C: 3-6 g/L, novel multicomponent copolymerized silicone oil softener DT-5288: 3-6 g/L, formaldehyde scavenger FDS: 20-30 g/L, penetrant MRZ: 2-5 g/L.

7. The linen fabric non-ironing-free processing technology according to claim 1, characterized in that: the tentering step: temperature of the drying room: 120-140 ℃, vehicle speed: 60 to 80 m/min.

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the technical field of textile printing and dyeing, and particularly relates to a processing technology for improving the non-ironing property of linen fabric.

Background

The flax is also called as the yama or the flax, and is divided into three types of fiber and oil which are annual herbaceous plants. The clothing is one of the main fiber raw materials of the spring and summer clothing because of good moisture absorption, fast moisture conduction and relatively thin diameter. In general, a cloth woven from flax fibers is referred to as a flax fabric.

The linen fabric has natural air permeability, hygroscopicity, freshness, antibacterial property and other properties, and is popular with consumers all the time, but the linen is natural fiber, and the material has high toughness but no elasticity. Other fabrics can slowly recover to the original shape after being deformed, but flax cannot do the deformation, and only wrinkles once being deformed, so that the wearing performance of the fabric is seriously influenced by the characteristic.

Disclosure of Invention

The technical problem to be solved by the invention is as follows: the processing technology for improving the non-ironing property of the linen fabric overcomes the defects of the prior art, can realize the non-ironing property of the linen fabric of 3.2 grade, has the formaldehyde content of less than or equal to 20ppm, improves the wearability and the added value of the linen fabric by combining the natural performances of ventilation, antibiosis and the like of the linen fabric, has low formaldehyde content of the linen fabric, and realizes the green and environment-friendly performance of the linen fabric.

According to the processing technology for improving the non-ironing property of the linen fabric, the warps and the wefts adopt linen yarns, and the linen grey fabric is subjected to singeing → desizing → extra bleaching → wet cloth drying → liquid ammonia → whitening washing → ultra-soft → damp cross-linking washing → tentering to obtain the linen fabric.

In the feed liquid used in the super-soft process: fatty acid hydrophilic reactivator QQ-N (Kekai Fine chemical Co., Ltd.): 3-6 g/L, heat-reactive polyurethane softener RPU (On high chemical Co., Ltd): 20-30 g/L of polyamino hydroxyl derivative humectant PN94 (Jodany Post chemical Co., Ltd.): 1-3 g/L.

QQ-N is a fatty acid hydrophilic revivifier, so that the water absorption performance of the fabric can be improved; the RPU is heat reactive polyurethane, so that the handfeel of the fabric is improved, and the wrinkle recovery angle and the washing and wearing effect of the fabric are improved by matching with a cross-linking agent; PN94 is a humectant of a polyamino hydroxyl derivative, can improve the liquid carrying rate of flax fabric to resin, and three auxiliaries are cooperatively used, so that the water absorption performance and hand feeling of the fabric can be improved, the liquid carrying rate of flax fabric to moisture crosslinking resin is increased, the yield of the fabric is increased by combining the characteristics of an ultra-soft process, a foundation is provided for the use of large overfeeding of a subsequent moisture crosslinking process, the warp-wise elasticity of the fabric is improved, and a solid foundation is laid for improving the non-ironing performance of the fabric.

The super-soft process comprises the following steps: vehicle speed: 15-25 m/min, temperature: 110-130 ℃, main fan air volume: 70-80%, and the air volume of a lower fan: 45-55%, air volume of airing exhaust: 70-80%.

In the feed liquid used in the damp crosslinking procedure: resin auxiliary AMC (BASF CHEMICAL CO., LTD): 100-140 g/L, resin catalyst LRMC (Pasf chemical Co., Ltd.): 50-70 g/L, fiber protective agent ACN (Hensmei textile dyeing Co.): 20-30 g/L of hydrophilic linear co-polymer silicone oil TF-4911 (Zhejiang chemical Co., Ltd): 1-3 g/L, and 1-3 g/L of penetrant SN-10 (Zhejiang Rihua chemical Co., Ltd.).

The step of moisture crosslinking comprises the following steps: on a tenter, speed: 30-40 m/min, air quantity in the drying room: 45-55%, the air quantity under the drying room is 35-45%, and overfeeding: 4-7%, drying room temperature (8 groups/DEG C): 60/60/70/70/80/80/85/85, cropping humidity: 16-20% and the cropping temperature is controlled between 30-35 ℃.

The invention selects the damp cross-linking resin auxiliary AMC of the modified dihydroxymethyl dihydroxy ethylene urea to improve the non-ironing performance of the linen fabric and has smaller strength reduction; the fiber protective agent is polyethylene ACN, and compared with the common polyethylene wax fiber protective agent, the fabric has good moisture absorption performance and hand feeling and the strength of the fabric is improved; TF-4911 is selected as hydrophilic linear co-polysilicone oil, the hydrophilic linear co-polysilicone oil is used in a moisture crosslinking solution, the tearing strength of the linen fabric can be improved, the moisture content of the linen fabric is improved by adjusting the air quantity of a drying room and the temperature of the drying room, overfeeding is adjusted, and the warp elasticity of the fabric is improved by using large overfeeding, so that the non-ironing property of the fabric is improved.

And (3) after moisture crosslinking and water washing, processing and tentering, wherein in feed liquid used in the tentering process: multicomponent copolymerization block organosilicon emulsion softener TF-4865C (Zhejiang chemical Co., Ltd.): 3-6 g/L of novel multi-component copolymerized silicone oil softener DT-5288 (Federal science and technology Co., Ltd.): 3-6 g/L of formaldehyde scavenger FDS (Lurui Fine chemical Co., Ltd.): 20-30 g/L, penetrant MRZ (On high chemical Co., Ltd): 2-5 g/L.

The tentering step: temperature of the drying room: 120-140 ℃, vehicle speed: 60 to 80 m/min.

The formaldehyde scavenger FDS is selected to ensure that the formaldehyde content of the fabric is less than or equal to 20ppm, and the fabric is green and environment-friendly; experiments show that the TF-4865C softener and the DT-5288 softener have a great improvement effect on the hand feeling of the linen fabric, and the hand feeling of the linen fabric is softer by compounding the two softeners, so that the fabric is comfortable to wear, the hand feeling of the fabric is improved, and the formaldehyde content of the fabric is reduced.

The invention adopts the conventional processes and conditions in the field for singeing, desizing, extra bleaching, wet cloth drying, liquid ammonia, whitening and washing and moisture crosslinking and washing.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:

1) the production mode of the invention has continuity and can realize continuous production of large goods.

2) After the fabric is subjected to resin finishing, the non-ironing property of the fabric reaches 3.2 grade, and the washing and wearing performance of the fabric is improved.

3) After the fabric is treated, the content of formaldehyde is less than or equal to 20ppm, and the fabric is healthy and environment-friendly.

4) According to the invention, two softeners which greatly improve the hand feeling of the linen fabric are selected for combination in tentering, so that the hand feeling and the roughness of the linen fabric are improved, and the wearing comfort of the linen fabric is improved.

5) The finished fabric has the following indexes after testing:

breaking strength: ASTM D5034-2009 test method, warp direction: 30Lb, weft: 30 Lb;

tearing strength: ASTM D1424-2009 test method, by: 1.6Lb, weft: 1.6 Lb;

after washing, the appearance (non-ironing property), AATCC 124 and 2010, 5 times of washing, drying and testing method, 3.2 grade;

fourthly, testing water absorption, AATCC 79-2014, 10S before washing and 15S after washing.

Fifthly, the formaldehyde content is less than or equal to 20ppm according to a JIS L1041:2011/8.1.4B test method.

Detailed Description

The present invention will be further described with reference to the following examples.