阅读说明：本技术 一种丝滑通透控油型粉饼及其制备方法 (Smooth and permeable oil-controlling pressed powder and preparation method thereof ) 是由 刘文凤 刘冉 张傲祥 于 2020-04-21 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明属于彩妆领域,具体涉及一种丝滑通透控油型粉饼及其制备方法,该粉饼由质量百分比的以下原料加工而成：水0～70％、合成氟金云母10～40％、二氧化硅20～40％、角鲨烷2～4％,辛基十二醇硬脂酰氧基硬脂酸酯1～5％、聚山梨醇酯0.1～1％、色粉0.01～5％、棕榈酸乙基己酯2～4％、甘油0.1～0.5％、结冷胶0.1～0.5％、硅酸铝镁0.1～0.5％。该粉饼质地丝滑、表观通透、控油极佳,三维立体成型且图案精密,提高产品的持妆性,满足现代消费者对高级彩妆类产品的需求。(The invention belongs to the field of color cosmetics, and particularly relates to a smooth and permeable oil-controlling pressed powder and a preparation method thereof, wherein the pressed powder is prepared from the following raw materials in percentage by mass: 0-70% of water, 10-40% of synthetic fluorophlogopite, 20-40% of silicon dioxide, 2-4% of squalane, 1-5% of octyl dodecanol stearoyloxy stearate, 0.1-1% of polysorbate, 0.01-5% of toner, 2-4% of ethylhexyl palmitate, 0.1-0.5% of glycerol, 0.1-0.5% of gellan gum and 0.1-0.5% of aluminum magnesium silicate. The pressed powder has smooth texture, transparent appearance, excellent oil control, three-dimensional forming and precise pattern, improves the make-up holding performance of the product, and meets the requirements of modern consumers on advanced color make-up products.)

1. the smooth and permeable oil-control pressed powder is characterized by being prepared from the following raw materials in percentage by mass: 0-70% of water, 10-40% of synthetic fluorophlogopite, 20-40% of silicon dioxide, 2-4% of squalane, 1-5% of octyl dodecanol stearoyloxy stearate, 0.1-1% of polysorbate, 0.01-5% of toner, 2-4% of ethylhexyl palmitate, 0.1-0.5% of glycerol, 0.1-0.5% of gellan gum and 0.1-0.5% of aluminum magnesium silicate.

2. The smooth through oil-control pressed powder of claim 1, which is prepared by processing the following raw materials in percentage by mass: 30-60% of water, 18-35% of synthetic fluorophlogopite, 20-40% of silicon dioxide, 2-3% of squalane, 2-4% of octyl dodecanol stearoyloxy stearate, 0.5-1% of polysorbate, 1-2% of toner, 2-3% of ethylhexyl palmitate, 0.15-0.3% of glycerol, 0.2-0.4% of gellan gum and 0.2-0.4% of aluminum magnesium silicate.

3. The smooth through oil-control pressed powder of claim 1 or 2, further comprising a raw material preservative, wherein the added percentage by mass of the raw material preservative is 0.5-1%.

4. The method for preparing the silky through oil-controlled pressed powder of any one of claims 1 to 3, which comprises the steps of:

(1) under the conditions of constant heat and stirring, mixing the uniformly mixed liquid of the glycerol, the gellan gum and the water with the uniformly mixed liquid of the squalane, the octyl dodecanol stearoyl stearate, the polysorbate and the ethylhexyl palmitate until the mixture is homogenized, and adding the aluminum magnesium silicate to prepare emulsion a;

(2) under the conditions of constant heat and stirring, adding the uniformly mixed liquid of the synthetic fluorophlogopite, the silicon dioxide and the toner into the emulsion a until the mixture is homogenized to prepare a flowable fluid mixture b;

(3) and (3) after defoaming treatment of the flowable fluid mixture b, cooling and forming, and baking at constant temperature to obtain the smooth and permeable oil-controlling pressed powder.

5. The preparation method according to claim 4, wherein in the step (1), the mixture is stirred at 50-90 ℃ and 500-800 r/min;

mixing glycerol, gellan gum and water uniformly at 50-90 ℃ under stirring to obtain a mixed solution of glycerol, gellan gum and water;

heating and uniformly mixing squalane, octyl dodecanol stearoyl-oxy stearate, polysorbate and ethylhexyl palmitate at 75 ℃.

6. The method according to claim 5, wherein the squalane, octyldodecanol stearoyloxy stearate, polysorbate, and ethylhexyl palmitate are mixed under heating and a preservative is added.

7. The method according to claim 4, wherein the stirring in the step (2) is carried out at 40 to 70 ℃ and 500 to 800 r/min.

8. The preparation method according to claim 4, wherein in the step (3), the flowable fluid mixture b is vibrated and defoamed, cooled at 8 to-15 ℃ for 30 to 80min, and baked at 50 to 70 ℃ for 8 to 24 h.

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the field of color cosmetics, and particularly relates to a smooth and permeable oil-controlling pressed powder and a preparation method thereof.

Background

With the gradual increase of the appeal of people on facial makeup powder cakes, people prefer a powder cake product with smooth texture, transparent appearance and excellent oil control property. The gel powder technology is adopted to solve the problem of makeup fixation which cannot be realized by the conventional formula and the process technology.

Disadvantages/drawbacks of the prior art:

at present, in various oil control pressed powders appearing in the market, due to the limitation of technical level, the traditional filling powder such as mica and talc and the powder with certain oil absorption such as porous silicon dioxide are used, and in order to meet the requirement of a product drop test, dry powder or grease adhesive needs to be additionally added, so that the effects of silkiness and oil control of the product to a certain degree are realized; such products prepared by conventional formulation processes have several problems as follows:

(1) the traditional filling powder can affect the permeability effect of the product;

(2) the porous skin feel modifier can influence the drop test of the product, so that the silky oil control effect of the product has certain limitation;

(3) the traditional process has certain limitation on the appearance pattern effect of the product.

Disclosure of Invention

In order to solve the defects of the prior art, the invention provides the smooth and oil-control through type pressed powder and the preparation method thereof, the pressed powder has smooth texture, transparent appearance and excellent oil-control effect, the problems of oil control of skin and improvement of the make-up holding performance of the product are solved, and the requirements of modern consumers on high-grade color make-up products are met.

The smooth and permeable oil-controlling pressed powder is prepared by processing the following raw materials in percentage by mass: 0-70% of water, 10-40% of synthetic fluorophlogopite, 20-40% of silicon dioxide, 2-4% of squalane, 1-5% of octyl dodecanol stearoyloxy stearate, 0.1-1% of polysorbate, 0.01-5% of toner, 2-4% of ethylhexyl palmitate, 0.1-0.5% of glycerol, 0.1-0.5% of gellan gum and 0.1-0.5% of aluminum magnesium silicate. Preferably 30-60% of water, 18-35% of synthetic fluorophlogopite, 20-40% of silicon dioxide, 2-3% of squalane, 2-4% of octyl dodecanol stearoyloxy stearate, 0.5-1% of polysorbate, 1-2% of toner, 2-3% of ethylhexyl palmitate, 0.15-0.3% of glycerol, 0.2-0.4% of gellan gum and 0.2-0.4% of aluminum magnesium silicate.

In order to prolong the shelf life of the pressed powder, a preservative can be added into the pressed powder, and the content of the preservative is 0.5-1%.

The pressed powder disclosed by the invention has the advantages that a formula system is optimized by adopting a gel powder technology, so that a skin feel regulator with a high proportion can be loaded, and the pressed powder has the characteristics of unique makeup feel, transparent texture, extremely smooth touch, excellent oil control property and the like. The application of the non-traditional adhesive gellan gum can realize the three-dimensional precise pattern appearance design of the product by combining a specific process and a mold while ensuring the product quality. The makeup effect requirement of modern consumers on high-end makeup powder cake products is realized.

The preparation method of the pressed powder comprises the following steps:

(1) under the conditions of constant heat and stirring, mixing the uniformly mixed liquid of the glycerol, the gellan gum and the water with the uniformly mixed liquid of the squalane, the octyl dodecanol stearoyl stearate, the polysorbate and the ethylhexyl palmitate until the mixture is homogenized, and adding the aluminum magnesium silicate to prepare emulsion a;

(2) under the conditions of constant heat and stirring, adding the uniformly mixed liquid of the synthetic fluorophlogopite, the silicon dioxide and the toner into the emulsion a until the mixture is homogenized to prepare a flowable fluid mixture b;

(3) and (3) after defoaming treatment of the flowable fluid mixture b, cooling and forming, and baking at constant temperature to obtain the smooth and permeable oil-controlling pressed powder.

In the step (1), stirring is carried out at 50-90 ℃ and 500-800 r/min.

In the step (1), the glycerol, the gellan gum and the water are mixed uniformly under the stirring condition at the temperature of 50-90 ℃ to prepare a mixed solution of the glycerol, the gellan gum and the water.

In the step (1), squalane, octyldodecanol stearoyloxy stearate, polysorbate and ethylhexyl palmitate are heated and mixed uniformly under the heating condition of 75 ℃. The mixed solution also contains antiseptic.

In the step (2), stirring is carried out at 40-70 ℃ and 500-800 r/min.

In the step (3), the flowable fluid mixture b is vibrated and defoamed.

In the step (3), cooling at the temperature of 8-15 ℃ for 30-80 min, and baking at the temperature of 50-70 ℃ for 8-24 h.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the advantages that:

the pressed powder is different from the conventional makeup pressed powder product, is unique in makeup feeling, transparent in texture, extremely smooth in touch, excellent in oil control performance and has a certain moisturizing effect, and the three-dimensional performance and the pattern precision of the product are realized.

On the premise of meeting the product quality, the formula can load skin feel regulators (such as silicon dioxide and the like) with high proportion, and the skin feel regulator has unique makeup feel, transparent texture, extremely smooth touch, excellent oil control performance and certain moisturizing effect; meanwhile, the pressed powder can realize three-dimensional performance and pattern precision under the support of a die, and can meet the requirements of modern consumers on high-grade pressed powder.

Detailed Description

In order to overcome the defects of poor permeability, poor lubricating and oil controlling effect, difficulty in forming, limitation in forming effect and the like of the existing powder cake for the color cosmetics, the invention provides a novel powder cake formula and a matched preparation method by improving the existing powder cake formula, and the prepared powder cake is transparent, silky in touch, excellent in oil controlling and moisturizing, stable in three-dimensional forming and exquisite in pattern.

The raw materials of the powder cake formula comprise water, synthetic fluorophlogopite, silicon dioxide, squalane, octyl dodecanol stearoyl oxystearate, polysorbate, toner, ethylhexyl palmitate, glycerin, gellan gum, magnesium aluminum silicate and the like, and a proper amount of preservative can be added for prolonging the shelf life and meeting the cosmetic inspection standard.

The filler is synthesized into fluorophlogopite, so that the product has excellent coloring degree, reduced powder texture, increased permeability, low oil absorption value and increased compatibility with a formula system.

A large amount of porous spherical silicon dioxide is added, so that the product and the silky and exquisite touch feeling of the product are endowed, and the soft focus and the excellent oil control effect can be achieved through light absorption and diffuse reflection.

The emulsifier polysorbate increases the moistening and smoothing effects and is helpful for the forming of the whole formula system.

Gellan gum is a high molecular linear polysaccharide formed by repeating a basic unit consisting of 4 monosaccharide molecules, natural or called high acyl gellan gum can form high elasticity low hardness gel, and is heated to be dissolved into transparent solution, and after cooling, transparent and firm gel is formed. The gellan gum has excellent formability, supports a three-dimensional through gel three-dimensional structure of the whole product, increases the interaction among all the components in the formula system of the whole product, and increases the capacity of the formula system.

The humectant glycerin endows the product with a moisturizing function.

The viscosity of the formula system is adjusted by the tackifier magnesium aluminum silicate, and the forming of the formula system is facilitated.

The oil compounds of octyl dodecanol stearoyl stearate, squalane and ethylhexyl palmitate improve the skin feel of the product and enhance the stability of a formula system.

The components in the pressed powder formula system are mutually fused, coordinate, improve permeability, have silky touch, have good oil control effect, are easy to form and have exquisite patterns.

Specifically, the content of each raw material in the pressed powder formula of the invention is as follows by mass percent: 0-70% of water, 10-40% of synthetic fluorophlogopite, 20-40% of silicon dioxide, 2-4% of squalane, 1-5% of octyl dodecanol stearoyloxy stearate, 0.1-1% of polysorbate, 0.01-5% of toner, 2-4% of ethylhexyl palmitate, 0.1-0.5% of glycerol, 0.1-0.5% of gellan gum, 0.1-0.5% of aluminum magnesium silicate and a proper amount of preservative. Preferably 30-60% of water, 18-35% of synthetic fluorophlogopite, 20-40% of silicon dioxide, 2-3% of squalane, 2-4% of octyl dodecanol stearoyloxy stearate, 0.5-1% of polysorbate, 1-2% of toner, 2-3% of ethylhexyl palmitate, 0.15-0.3% of glycerol, 0.2-0.4% of gellan gum, 0.2-0.4% of aluminum magnesium silicate and 0.5-1% of preservative.

The invention also provides a preparation method for the pressed powder, which comprises the following steps:

(1) adding synthetic fluorophlogopite, silicon dioxide, toner and the like into the container A and uniformly stirring;

(2) heating squalane, octyl dodecanol stearoyl-oxy stearate, polysorbate, ethylhexyl palmitate and antiseptic to 75 deg.C, and mixing;

(3) heating glycerol, gellan gum and a proper amount of water in a container B to 50-90 ℃, and uniformly stirring;

(4) adding the mixed solution obtained in the step (3) into the mixed solution obtained in the step (2) in a container B under the condition of stirring, stirring and homogenizing under the condition of 500-800 r/min, and adding aluminum magnesium silicate to prepare emulsion a under the condition of system viscosity;

(5) adding the mixture obtained in the step (1) into the emulsion a, and uniformly stirring at the temperature of 40-70 ℃ at 500-800 r/min to obtain a flowable fluid mixture b;

(6) pouring the mixture b into a specific mould, vibrating for defoaming, and placing into a special qualitative grid;

(7) placing the mold and the material body into cooling equipment, standing for 30-80 min, demolding, and baking at 50-70 ℃ for 8-24 h. The water content in the baked product is controlled to be about 0.025-0.1%.

The invention will be better understood from the following examples. However, those skilled in the art will readily appreciate that the description of the embodiments is only for illustrating the present invention and should not be taken as limiting the invention as detailed in the claims.

Example 1

The pressed powder in the embodiment adopts the following raw materials in percentage by mass:

29.4 percent of water, 10 percent of synthetic fluorophlogopite, 40 percent of silicon dioxide, 4 percent of squalane, 5 percent of octyl dodecanol stearoyloxy stearate, 0.1 percent of polysorbate, 5 percent of toner, 4 percent of ethylhexyl palmitate, 0.5 percent of glycerol, 0.5 percent of gellan gum, 0.5 percent of magnesium aluminum silicate and 1 percent of preservative.

The preparation of the pressed powder of the embodiment comprises the following steps:

(1) adding synthetic fluorophlogopite, silicon dioxide, toner and the like into the container A and uniformly stirring;

(2) heating squalane, octyl dodecanol stearoyl-oxy stearate, polysorbate, ethylhexyl palmitate and antiseptic to 75 deg.C, and mixing;

(3) heating glycerol, gellan gum and appropriate amount of water in container B to 50 deg.C, and stirring;

(4) adding the mixed solution obtained in the step (3) into the mixed solution obtained in the step (2) in a container B under the condition of stirring, stirring and homogenizing under the condition of 500r/min, and adding magnesium aluminum silicate to prepare emulsion a under the condition of system viscosity;

(5) adding the mixture obtained in the step (1) into the emulsion a, and uniformly stirring at the temperature of 40 ℃ at 500r/min to obtain a flowable fluid mixture b;

(6) pouring the mixture b into a specific mould, vibrating for defoaming, and placing into a special qualitative grid;

(7) placing the mould and the material body into a cooling device, standing for 30min, demoulding, and baking at 50 ℃ for 8 h. The water content in the baked product is controlled to be about 0.025-0.1%.

Example 2:

the pressed powder in the embodiment adopts the following raw materials in percentage by mass:

57.6% of water, 20% of synthetic fluorophlogopite, 10% of silicon dioxide, 2% of squalane, 3% of octyl dodecanol stearoyloxy stearate, 0.5% of polysorbate, 2% of toner, 3% of ethylhexyl palmitate, 0.3% of glycerol, 0.3% of gellan gum, 0.3% of magnesium aluminum silicate and 1% of preservative.

The preparation of the pressed powder of the embodiment comprises the following steps:

(1) adding synthetic fluorophlogopite, silicon dioxide, toner and the like into the container A and uniformly stirring;

(2) heating squalane, octyl dodecanol stearoyl-oxy stearate, polysorbate, ethylhexyl palmitate and antiseptic to 75 deg.C, and mixing;

(3) heating glycerol, gellan gum and appropriate amount of water in container B to 70 deg.C, and stirring;

(4) adding the mixed solution obtained in the step (3) into the mixed solution obtained in the step (2) in a container B under the condition of stirring, stirring and homogenizing under the condition of 600r/min, and adding magnesium aluminum silicate to prepare emulsion a under the condition of system viscosity;

(5) adding the mixture obtained in the step (1) into the emulsion a, and uniformly stirring at 600r/min and 50 ℃ to obtain a flowable fluid mixture b;

(6) pouring the mixture b into a specific mould, vibrating for defoaming, and placing into a special qualitative grid;

(7) placing the mould and the material body into a cooling device, standing for 50min, demoulding, and baking at 60 ℃ for 12 h. The water content in the baked product is controlled to be about 0.025-0.1%.

Example 3

The pressed powder in the embodiment adopts the following raw materials in percentage by mass:

31.69% of water, 40% of synthetic fluorophlogopite, 20% of silicon dioxide, 3% of squalane, 1% of octyl dodecanol stearoyloxy stearate, 1% of polysorbate, 0.01% of toner, 2% of ethylhexyl palmitate, 0.1% of glycerol, 0.1% of gellan gum, 0.1% of magnesium aluminum silicate and 1% of preservative.

The preparation of the pressed powder of the embodiment comprises the following steps:

(1) adding synthetic fluorophlogopite, silicon dioxide, toner and the like into the container A and uniformly stirring;

(2) heating squalane, octyl dodecanol stearoyl-oxy stearate, polysorbate, ethylhexyl palmitate and antiseptic to 75 deg.C, and mixing;

(3) heating glycerol, gellan gum and appropriate amount of water in container B to 90 deg.C, and stirring;

(4) adding the mixed solution obtained in the step (3) into the mixed solution obtained in the step (2) in a container B under the condition of stirring, stirring and homogenizing under the condition of 800r/min, and adding magnesium aluminum silicate to prepare emulsion a under the condition of system viscosity;

(5) adding the mixture obtained in the step (1) into the emulsion a, and uniformly stirring at the temperature of 70 ℃ at 800r/min to obtain a flowable fluid mixture b;

(6) pouring the mixture b into a specific mould, vibrating for defoaming, and placing into a special qualitative grid;

(7) placing the mould and the material body into a cooling device, standing for 80min, demoulding, and baking at 70 ℃ for 24 h. The water content in the baked product is controlled to be about 0.025-0.1%.

The results of the tests on transparency, smoothness, oil control, pattern cubic effect, pattern precision, etc. of the products prepared in examples 1 to 3 are shown in table 1: