阅读说明：本技术 一种多种原料交织仿麻弹力织物的生产方法 (Production method of multi-raw-material interwoven linen-like elastic fabric ) 是由 朱宏峰 王华强 傅华烨 赵国英 周利军 于 2020-05-20 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明涉及纺织品制备领域,具体关于一种多种原料交织仿麻弹力织物的生产方法；本发明涉及经、纬向均有四种原料交织仿麻弹力织物,本发明的一种多种原料交织仿麻弹力织物的生产方法,本发明生产的布料具有优异的耐用性和耐热性,还具有防起皱,表面饱满,仿麻效果强的特点,本发明采用合适的经纬密度与混纺或交织,有效提高织物的强度和坚牢度。本发明工艺复杂,生产难度大,一种蜡质改性复合淀粉的应用为其生产提供较大的帮助,易于渗入纱纤维内部,上浆均匀,减少浆斑,增高纤维吸着量,纤维抗磨性效果好,能大大减少经纱打绞引起断头和烘燥过干造成断头,提高工艺流畅度,降低损耗。(The invention relates to the field of textile preparation, in particular to a production method of a multi-raw material interwoven linen-like elastic fabric; the invention relates to a method for producing linen-like elastic fabric interwoven by four raw materials in warp and weft directions, the cloth produced by the method has the characteristics of excellent durability and heat resistance, wrinkle resistance, full surface and strong linen-like effect. The invention has complex process and great production difficulty, the application of the waxy modified composite starch provides great help for the production of the waxy modified composite starch, the waxy modified composite starch is easy to permeate into yarn fibers, the sizing is uniform, the size spots are reduced, the fiber absorption capacity is increased, the fiber abrasion resistance effect is good, the yarn breakage caused by warp twisting and the yarn breakage caused by drying and overdrying can be greatly reduced, the process smoothness is improved, and the loss is reduced.)

1. A production method of multi-raw material interwoven linen-like elastic fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps:

the method comprises the following steps of fabric processing specification, warping and cylinder matching and main technology, yarn finishing and cylinder matching and technology, slashing preparation technology, T170D/A40D (S twist) slashing technology, parallel-beam and warp-beam sizing technology, leasing and drafting technology and air jet weaving.

2. The method for producing the multi-raw-material interwoven linen-like stretch fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the on-machine specification of the fabric is as follows: 86' (R32S bamboo joint core-spun + R30S core-spun + T160D/A40D + T170D/A40D) (2:2: 2) × (R32S bamboo joint core-spun + R30S core-spun + T160D/A40D + T170D/A40D) (2:2:2:2)86 × 72 twill (2/2).

3. The method for producing the multi-raw-material interwoven linen-like stretch fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the warping cylinder-matching technological parameters comprise:

cylinder allocation: R32S bamboo joint core-spun: 1900 pieces 1700-;

R30S cored: 1900 pieces 1700-;

and (3) bobbin shaping: the temperature is 22-28 ℃, the relative humidity is 72-78%, and the time is 70-76 hours;

the distance between the bobbin and the tension disc is 250mm → 150 mm;

vehicle speed: 350 m/min → 600 m/min.

4. The method for producing the multi-raw-material interwoven linen-like stretch fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the whole silk matching cylinder and the process comprise the following steps:

T160D/A40D, S twist: 900-; unwinding tension setting: the weight of the tension ring is 2-5 g, and the angular position of the tension disc is as follows: 2-4 gear; the winding tension is 22-25 kg, and the vehicle speed is 300-; s twisting: 900-; unwinding tension setting: the weight of the tension ring is 2-5 g, and the angular position of the tension disc is as follows: 2-5 gear; the winding tension is 22-26 kg, and the vehicle speed is 240-280 m/min.

5. The method for producing the multi-raw-material interwoven linen-like stretch fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the preparation technology of the sizing comprises the following steps:

and (3) sizing separately, and additionally arranging a self-made expansion reed device before the warp enters a size groove.

6. The method for producing the multi-raw-material interwoven linen-like stretch fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the preparation technology of the sizing comprises the following steps:

adjusting a sizing formula: 30-45 parts of modified starch, 1-6 parts of propylene urea and 0.5-4 parts of wax flakes.

7. The method for producing the multi-raw-material interwoven linen-like stretch fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the preparation technology of the sizing comprises the following steps:

slurry concentration reduction/sizing reduction: the mass concentration of the slurry is 3-4.5 percent), and the sizing rate is 4-6 percent;

and (4) pre-drying/drying the cylinder, namely 2-4 cylinders.

8. The method for producing the multi-raw-material interwoven linen-like stretch fabric according to claim 7, wherein: the preparation technology of the sizing comprises the following steps:

the specific process parameters are as follows:

a beam unwinding tension: 80N/axle → 100N/axle (Newton)

b slurry tank feeding tension parameter (I × II speed): 1.0020X 1.0000 → 1.0200X 1.0160

c wet zone tension parameters of the vat (I × II speed): 1.0020X 1.0000 → 1.0260X 1.0180

d, tension parameter of front yarn dividing area: 1.0000 → 1.0150;

distance between the pulp shaft and the disc plate: 2150mm → 1650 mm.

9. The method for producing the multi-raw-material interwoven linen-like elastic fabric according to claim 6, wherein: the modified starch is waxy modified composite starch and is prepared by the following method:

adding 300 parts of amylopectin by mass and 480 parts of water by mass into a reaction kettle, stirring and mixing uniformly to obtain starch milk, controlling the temperature to be 35-55 ℃, adjusting the pH to be 8-11 by using 1-5% sodium hydroxide solution, and then adding 15-28 parts of acrylamide and 2.2-5.3 parts of vinyldimethylsilane; after uniform mixing, slowly adding 20-40 parts of 5-10% azodiisobutyronitrile solution into a reaction kettle, reacting at 50-74 ℃ for 120-180min, adjusting the pH value to 7.0-8.5 by using dilute hydrochloric acid, then adding 0.7-4 parts of pentadecenyl succinic anhydride, 0.003-0.02 part of chloroplatinic acid ethanol solution with the mass percentage concentration of 10-17, reacting at 70-85 ℃ for 60-120min, and controlling the pH value of a reaction system to 7.0-8.5 by using sodium hydroxide solution with the mass percentage concentration of 1-5%; and (3) terminating the reaction after the reaction is finished, washing, dehydrating and drying to obtain the waxy modified composite starch.

10. The method for producing the multi-raw-material interwoven linen-like stretch fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the preparation method of the T170D/A40D (S twist) pulp yarn comprises the following steps:

the serous fluid is clear water slurry and is colored with brilliant blue;

unwinding tension of 22-24 kg, winding tension of 26-28 kg, and elongation control: elongation of A: +0.1, B elongation: + 0.5; the main grouting force is I multiplied by II (10 m/min multiplied by 300 m/min) and 300 multiplied by 1000 kg; temperature of the stock chest: 42-47 ℃; drying room temperature 1 zone: 145-155 ℃; zone 2: 140 ℃ and 150 ℃; the temperatures of five groups of cylinders are respectively set as follows: 120/110/100; sizing wire vehicle speed: 280 plus 320 m/min, oiling 0.2-0.5% after sizing.

11. The method for producing the multi-raw-material interwoven linen-like stretch fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the shaft combining and shaping process comprises the following steps:

sequentially discharging propeller shaft from front to back

T170D/A40D multiplied by 2 shaft + T160D/A40D multiplied by 2 shaft + R30S core-spun + R32S bamboo joint core-spun, wherein the R30S core-spun and the R32S bamboo joint core-spun shafts are placed on a self-made shaft bracket and are combined with each other, the speed of the combined shaft is 68-73 m/min, and layered stranded wires are placed after the shaft is dropped.

12. The method for producing the multi-raw-material interwoven linen-like stretch fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the beam forming process comprises the following steps:

setting 6-8 m outside the combined beam on a self-made special setting machine, wherein the setting temperature is as follows: and then performing warp leasing and automatic drafting at 180 ℃.

13. The method for producing the multi-raw-material interwoven linen-like stretch fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the process parameters of leasing and drafting are as follows:

leasing speed: 100-; drafting speed: 95-105 roots/min.

14. The method for producing the multi-raw-material interwoven linen-like stretch fabric according to claim 1, wherein:

the air-jet weaving process parameters are as follows:

the heald frame height is 140mm → 144mm, the auxiliary nozzle is lowered, the height is 2 grids → 3 grids, the opening time position angle is 300 degrees → 320 degrees, and the weaving speed is 600 turns/minute → 720 turns/minute.

Technical Field

The invention relates to the field of textile preparation, in particular to a production method of a multi-raw-material interwoven linen-like elastic fabric.

Background

Along with the improvement of living standard of people, people have more and more rich and colorful requirements on the fabric, especially in the aspect of women's clothes, fashionable appearance, comfortable taking, low price and high quality, and are popular with the public. Linen imitation in summer and wool imitation in winter become the research and development direction of fashion products in the industry.

CN105747329A discloses an anti-wrinkle chinlon fabric, which comprises components of crepe, glass yarn, peach skin, terylene, elastic suede, down-feather woolen, polyester cotton yarn, knitted fabric flocking, abaca fiber, coconut fiber, rabbit hair and mulberry silk. The nylon fabric prepared by the formula has excellent durability, heat resistance and light resistance, is glossy, bright in color, excellent in elasticity and comfortable to wear, is the best choice for down jackets and mountaineering wear materials, and is often blended or interwoven with other fibers to improve the strength and the fastness of the fabric.

CN103222699A discloses a composite nylon fabric, which is composed of the following components in parts by weight: 10-18 parts of crepe, 9-17 parts of glass yarn, 7-14 parts of polyester-nylon composite polyester peach skin, 2-11 parts of terylene, 3-12 parts of elastic suede, 4-10 parts of down-course woolen, 6-15 parts of fine cotton yarn, 8-19 parts of jute, 4-13 parts of knitted fabric, 5-17 parts of abaca, 1-13 parts of coconut fiber, 6-12 parts of rabbit hair and 9-13 parts of tussah silk. The invention has excellent durability, heat resistance and light resistance, glossy fabric, bright color, excellent elasticity and comfortable wearing, is not only the best choice of down jackets and mountaineering wear, but also is often blended or interwoven with other fibers to improve the strength and the fastness of the fabric.

CN208685148U discloses a cotton tencel micro-elastic high-grade leisure fabric, which is characterized in that warp yarns (1) are arranged according to a ratio of 3:1 by adopting cotton tencel 901012 s siro spun yarns and cotton tencel 901012 s siro spun slub yarns, weft yarns (transverse yarns 2) are cotton 16 s-coated 40D spandex elastic yarns, and warp and weft yarns are interwoven according to an upper 3, lower 1 and right oblique organization. The cotton tencel in the fabric has the characteristics of softness, drapability, unique touch, air and moisture permeability, nature, skin friendliness and elegant luster. One cotton tencel bamboo joint is arranged in the warp direction, the linen-like style is reflected, and the cotton elasticity in the weft direction is 40D, so that the fabric is rich in micro elasticity. The warp and weft yarns of the cloth are thick, the density of the warp yarns is 158 pieces/10 cm, the density of the weft yarns is 155 pieces/10 cm, and the cloth is suitable for being used as a high-grade leisure clothing fabric.

In order to meet the increasing living demands of people and improve the competitiveness of products, I have researched and developed various raw material interwoven hemp-like elastic fabrics, and the linen-like elastic fabrics are complex in process, high in production difficulty and difficult to imitate, are repeatedly passed through by company technicians for many times, adjust related production processes and finally are researched and developed.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention provides a method for producing a multi-raw material interwoven linen-like elastic fabric.

The invention relates to a method for producing a multi-raw material interwoven linen-like elastic fabric, which mainly comprises the following steps of:

the method comprises the following steps of fabric processing specification, warping cylinder matching and main process parameters, whole yarn cylinder matching and process, slashing key technology, T170D/A40D (S twist) slashing process, warp beam and beam forming process, leasing and drafting process and JAT-810 air jet weaving parameters.

The on-machine specification of the fabric is as follows: 86' (R32S bamboo joint core-spun + R30S core-spun + T160D/A40D + T170D/A40D) (2:2: 2) × (R32S bamboo joint core-spun + R30S core-spun + T160D/A40D + T170D/A40D) (2:2:2:2)86 × 72 twill (2/2).

The warping cylinder-matching technological parameters comprise:

cylinder allocation: R32S bamboo joint core-spun: 1900 pieces 1700-;

R30S cored: 1900 pieces 1700-;

and (3) bobbin shaping: the temperature is 22-28 ℃, the relative humidity is 72-78%, and the time is 70-76 hours;

the distance between the bobbin and the tension disc is 250mm → 150 mm;

vehicle speed: 350 m/min → 600 m/min.

The whole silk matching cylinder and the process comprise the following steps:

T160D/A40D, S twist: 900-; unwinding tension setting: the weight of the tension ring is 2-5 g, and the angular position of the tension disc is as follows: 2-4 gear; the winding tension is 22-25 kg, and the vehicle speed is 300-; s twisting: 900-; unwinding tension setting: the weight of the tension ring is 2-5 g, and the angular position of the tension disc is as follows: 2-5 gear; the winding tension is 22-26 kg, and the vehicle speed is 240-280 m/min.

The preparation technology of the sizing comprises the following steps:

and the warp yarns are respectively and independently sized, and because the total warp number is small and the coverage coefficient of the sizing yarns is low, a self-made expansion reed device is additionally arranged before the warp yarns enter a size groove.

The preparation technology of the sizing comprises the following steps:

adjusting a sizing formula: removing the slurry containing part of PVA, and changing into modified starch slurry; the specific formula is as follows: 30-45 parts of modified starch, 1-6 parts of propylene urea and 0.5-4 parts of wax flakes.

The preparation technology of the sizing comprises the following steps:

slurry concentration reduction/sizing reduction: the mass concentration of the slurry is 3.5-4%, and the sizing rate is 4-6%;

pre-drying/drying the cylinder, wherein 2-4 cylinders,

the preparation technology of the sizing comprises the following steps:

the specific process parameters are as follows:

a beam unwinding tension: 80N/axle → 100N/axle (Newton)

b slurry tank feeding tension parameter (I × II speed): 1.0020X 1.0000 → 1.0200X 1.0160

c wet zone tension parameters of the vat (I × II speed): 1.0020X 1.0000 → 1.0260X 1.0180

d, tension parameter of front yarn dividing area: 1.0000 → 1.0150;

and (3) adjusting the distance between the pulp shaft and the disc plate to be small: 2150mm → 1650mm, and increasing the arrangement density of warp yarns of sizing axis to make the warp yarns of sizing axis arranged flatly, make the unwinding tension of parallel axis uniform, and reduce broken ends.

The preparation method of the T170D/A40D (S twist) pulp yarn comprises the following steps:

the serous fluid is clear water slurry and is colored with brilliant blue;

unwinding tension of 22-24 kg, winding tension of 26-28 kg, and elongation control: elongation of A: +0.1, B elongation: + 0.5; the main grouting force is I multiplied by II (10 m/min multiplied by 300 m/min) and 300 multiplied by 1000 kg; temperature of the stock chest: 42-47 ℃; drying room temperature 1 zone: 145-155 ℃; zone 2: 140 ℃ and 150 ℃; the temperatures of five groups of cylinders are respectively set as follows: 120/110/100; sizing wire vehicle speed: 280 plus 320 m/min, oiling 0.2-0.5% after sizing.

The shaft combining and shaping process comprises the following steps:

sequentially discharging propeller shaft from front to back

T170D/A40D multiplied by 2 shaft + T160D/A40D multiplied by 2 shaft + R30S core-spun + R32S bamboo joint core-spun, wherein the R30S core-spun and the R32S bamboo joint core-spun shafts are placed on a self-made shaft bracket and are combined with each other, the speed of the combined shaft is 68-73 m/min, and layered stranded wires are placed after the shaft is dropped.

The beam forming process comprises the following steps:

the warp elasticity of the combined beam is large, 6-8 m outside the beam needs to be shaped on a self-made special shaping machine, and the shaping temperature is as follows: performing warp leasing and automatic drafting at 180 ℃;

the process parameters of leasing and drafting are as follows:

leasing speed: 100-; drafting speed: 95-105 roots/min.

The air-jet weaving process parameters are as follows:

the heald frame height is 140mm → 144mm, the auxiliary nozzle is lowered, the height is 3 grids → 2 grids, the opening time position angle is 300 degrees → 320 degrees, and the weaving speed is 720 turns/minute → 600 turns/minute.

The modified starch is waxy modified composite starch and is prepared by the following method:

adding 300 parts of amylopectin by mass and 480 parts of water by mass into a reaction kettle, stirring and mixing uniformly to obtain starch milk, controlling the temperature to be 35-55 ℃, adjusting the pH to be 8-11 by using 1-5% sodium hydroxide solution, and then adding 15-28 parts of acrylamide and 2.2-5.3 parts of vinyldimethylsilane; after uniform mixing, slowly adding 20-40 parts of 5-10% azodiisobutyronitrile solution into a reaction kettle, reacting at 50-74 ℃ for 120-180min, adjusting the pH value to 7.0-8.5 by using dilute hydrochloric acid, then adding 0.7-4 parts of pentadecenyl succinic anhydride, 0.003-0.02 part of chloroplatinic acid ethanol solution with the mass percentage concentration of 10-17, reacting at 70-85 ℃ for 60-120min, and controlling the pH value of a reaction system to 7.0-8.5 by using sodium hydroxide solution with the mass percentage concentration of 1-5%; and (3) terminating the reaction after the reaction is finished, washing, dehydrating and drying to obtain the waxy modified composite starch.

The reaction mechanism of the waxy modified composite starch is as follows: the amylopectin backbone is formed by connecting alpha-1, 4-glycosidic bonds, and the amylopectin is connected with the backbone by the alpha-1, 6-glycosidic bonds; through degradation and free radical polymerization reaction, the copolymerization of the active site of the molecular chain and vinyldimethylsilane can be realized to form a high-branching degree graft polymer, the dimethylsilane is connected to the amylopectin, and then the polydimethylsiloxane is subjected to hydrosilylation reaction with the pentadecenyl succinic anhydride, so that the obtained waxy modified composite starch has both high-hydrophilicity groups and trace hydrophobic groups, the high-hydrophilicity groups and the trace hydrophobic groups are beneficial to easily permeating into yarn fibers, the sizing is uniform, the size spots are reduced, and the fiber adsorption capacity is increased.

The reaction equation is schematically shown as:

according to the production method of the linen-like elastic fabric interwoven by multiple raw materials, the produced cloth has excellent durability and heat resistance, and also has the characteristics of wrinkle prevention, full surface and strong linen-like effect.

The cylinder is pre-dried/dried to prevent the broken ends caused by over-drying; the broken ends caused by accidental extension of a wet area are reduced, and the threading form of the squeezing roller is changed from double-dipping double-pressing to single-dipping double-pressing; the tension of each area of the sizing is properly adjusted to be large, the warp yarns are tensioned, and the retraction is reduced.

The application of the waxy modified composite starch provides great help for the production of the waxy modified composite starch, the modified starch is a product obtained by selecting pure branched waxy starch as a raw material and performing modification treatment by adopting various methods such as grafting, crosslinking and oxidation, and the modified starch has the advantages of good viscosity stability of a paste, high transparency and strong shearing resistance, is easy to permeate into yarn fibers, has uniform sizing, reduces size spots, increases the fiber absorption capacity, has good fiber abrasion resistance effect, can greatly reduce broken ends caused by twisting of warp yarns and broken ends caused by drying, improves the process smoothness and reduces the loss.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a Fourier infrared spectrum of a sample of the waxy modified composite starch prepared in example 2.

At 1063cm^-1An antisymmetric telescopic absorption peak of C-O-C of a cyclic ether exists nearby and is 3344/1397cm^-1The expansion/in-plane bending absorption peak of hydroxyl group is present nearby, and is 1296/1215cm^-1A double-band telescopic absorption peak of a carbon-oxygen single bond exists nearby, which indicates that the amylopectin participates in the reaction; at 2927cm^-1The absorption peak of the carbon hydrogen is in the vicinity of 1651cm^-1An antisymmetric telescopic absorption peak of the carbonyl of the amide exists nearby, which indicates that the acrylamide participates in the reaction; at 767cm^-1A stretching absorption peak of silicon carbon exists nearby, which indicates that vinyldimethylsilane participates in the reaction; at 1853cm^-1The absorption peak of the carbonyl group of the acid anhydride is found near 911cm^-1The antisymmetric telescopic absorption peak of C-O-C of the acid anhydride exists nearby, so to speakThe pentadecenyl succinic anhydride participates in the reaction; at 1641cm^-1No obvious absorption peak of carbon-carbon double bonds exists nearby, which indicates that the double bonds are all involved in the reaction.

Detailed Description

The invention is further illustrated by the following specific examples:

the transparency of the modified starch in the experimental example is tested by placing 50ml of 1.0% starch milk in a 100ml beaker, heating in boiling water to gelatinize, stirring for 15 minutes while keeping the volume of the paste constant, and cooling to 25 ℃ for later use. The transparency of the starch paste was determined at a wavelength of 620nm using a 1cm cuvette. The transparency of the starch paste is expressed in terms of light transmittance, the higher the transparency of the paste.

Method for measuring viscosity thermal stability: the viscosity values were measured with a model NDJ-79 rotary viscometer. The specific method for determining the viscosity value is as follows: the modified starches of the examples were formulated as 6 wt.% emulsions, gelatinized and then incubated at 95 ℃ for 1h, at a viscosity P₁The viscosity value at 3 hours is Pn, and the viscosity thermal stability of the modified starch at 3 hours is 100 [ (% viscosity thermal stability) (Pn-P1)/P1 × 100%.