阅读说明：本技术 防撞色涤/氨针织面料及其染整方法 (Anti-collision color polyester/ammonia knitted fabric and dyeing and finishing method thereof ) 是由 左凯杰 吴金玲 张国成 李正磊 刘玉章 黄庄芳容 于 2019-10-31 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明公开了一种防撞色涤/氨针织面料及其染整方法,它是由原液着色涤纶纱线与氨纶纱线通过纬编单面/双面机台织造而成,上述原液着色涤纶纱线是在涤纶聚合纺丝阶段加入粒径均匀的纳米级颜料,再经喷丝以及后道加工制得的有色涤纶,染整方法包括预定形、前处理、酸中和、加柔软以及成品定型。本发明采用原液着色涤纶纱线与氨纶纱线织造涤/氨针织面料,可以省略染整阶段的染色过程,从而避免了高比例氨纶的涤/氨针织面料会出现的氨纶沾色问题,进而大大减少了用水量,节水率可达62.5%,而且得到的涤/氨针织面料各项牢度良好,尤其是对于异色搭配的撞色牢度也可达到4级以上,比传统工艺高出1～1.5级,满足异色搭配的需求。(The invention discloses an anti-collision color polyester/spandex knitted fabric and a dyeing and finishing method thereof, wherein the anti-collision color polyester/spandex knitted fabric is woven by a weft knitting single-sided/double-sided machine platform through a stock solution coloring polyester yarn, the stock solution coloring polyester yarn is colored polyester prepared by adding nano-scale pigment with uniform particle size in a polyester polymerization spinning stage, and then carrying out spinning and post processing, and the dyeing and finishing method comprises pre-shaping, pre-treatment, acid neutralization, softening and finished product shaping. According to the invention, the polyester/ammonia knitted fabric is woven by adopting the dope-dyed polyester yarns and the spandex yarns, so that the dyeing process in the dyeing and finishing stage can be omitted, the problem of spandex staining of the polyester/ammonia knitted fabric with high proportion of spandex is avoided, the water consumption is greatly reduced, the water saving rate can reach 62.5%, the obtained polyester/ammonia knitted fabric has good fastness, particularly the color fastness to collision of different color matching can reach more than 4 grades, the level is 1-1.5 higher than that of the traditional process, and the requirement of different color matching is met.)

1. The utility model provides an anticollision look washes/ammonia knitted fabric which characterized in that: the fabric is woven by dope dyed polyester yarns and spandex yarns through a weft knitting single-sided/double-sided machine; the dope dyed polyester yarn is colored polyester prepared by adding nano-scale pigment with uniform particle size in the polyester polymerization spinning stage, and then carrying out spinning and post-processing.

2. The anti-collision color polyester/polyurethane knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the fineness of the stock solution coloring polyester yarn is 50D-200D, and the mass fraction of the stock solution coloring polyester yarn is 70-98%.

3. The anti-collision color polyester/polyurethane knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the fineness of the spandex yarn is 20D-70D, and the mass fraction of the spandex yarn is 2% -30%.

4. The anti-collision color polyester/polyurethane knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the gram weight of the anti-collision color polyester/ammonia knitted fabric is 80-450 g/m²。

5. A method for dyeing and finishing an anti-collision color polyester/polyurethane knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized by comprising the steps of:

① pre-shaping at 180-200 deg.C for 1-2.5 min;

②, immersing the pre-shaped anti-collision color polyester/polyurethane knitted fabric in the step ① in a pre-treatment liquid, and treating for 15-30 min at 85-100 ℃;

③ neutralizing with acid at 20-40 deg.C for 10-20 min, and pH of 5-7;

④, adding 1-2 g/L of hydrophilic softening agent into the jar, and taking out;

⑤ shaping the product at 120-160 deg.C for 1-2.5 min.

6. The dyeing and finishing method of anti-collision color polyester/ammonia knitted fabric according to claim 5, characterized in that the pretreatment liquid in the step ② is an aqueous solution containing 0.1-1.0 g/L scouring agent, 0.5-3.0 g/L scouring emulsifier and 0.5-2.0 g/L dispersing agent.

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the technical field of textile printing and dyeing, and particularly relates to an anti-collision color polyester/ammonia knitted fabric and a dyeing and finishing method thereof.

Background

China is the largest textile production country, export country and consumer country in the world, and textile export plays an important role in foreign trade in China, but we should notice that most of high-end clothing brands are in Europe, America and Japan, and the weaving, dyeing and finishing in China are at the front end of an industrial chain and are greatly restricted by high-end brands.

Taking polyester/ammonia knitted fabric as an example, due to the rise of light luxury sports and leisure wind at present, the proportion of polyester/ammonia knitted fabric in the purchasing of brand customer fabric is continuously increased, and the conditions of different color matching such as black/white, bright red/white, emerald green/white and the like often occur in the ready-made clothes style.

For the polyester/ammonia knitted fabric, due to the structural characteristics of the disperse dye, particularly in the presence of high-proportion (more than 10%) of spandex, the disperse dye can stain the spandex, and a large amount of water is consumed for cleaning to enable the washing fastness of the fabric to meet the requirement, even if the problem of color collision during heterochromatic matching is inevitable, white parts are polluted by black, scarlet, emerald and the like, and thus the fabric becomes defective.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to solve the problems and provides an anti-collision color polyester/polyurethane knitted fabric and a dyeing and finishing method thereof.

The technical scheme for realizing the purpose of the invention is as follows: an anti-collision color polyester/ammonia knitted fabric is woven by dope colored polyester yarns and spandex yarns through a weft knitting single-sided/double-sided machine.

The dope dyed polyester yarn is colored polyester prepared by adding nano-scale pigment with uniform particle size in the polyester polymerization spinning stage, and then carrying out spinning and post processing.

It should be noted that: the nano-scale pigment with uniform particle size can not be mixed with any disperse dye.

The fineness of the dope dyed polyester yarn is 50D-200D, preferably 75D.

The mass fraction (accounting for the fabric) of the dope dyed polyester yarn is 70-98%, preferably 80%.

The fineness of the spandex yarn is 20D to 70D, preferably 40D.

The mass fraction (accounting for the fabric) of the spandex yarn is 2-30%, and the mass fraction is preferably 20%.

The gram weight of the anti-collision color polyester/ammonia knitted fabric is 80-450 g/m²。

The dyeing and finishing method of the anti-collision color polyester/ammonia knitted fabric comprises the following steps:

① pre-shaping at 180-200 deg.C for 1-2.5 min;

②, soaking the pre-shaped anti-collision color polyester/polyurethane knitted fabric pre-shaped in the step ① in a pre-treatment solution, and treating for 15-30 min at 85-100 ℃ to remove spinning oil, weaving oil and a small amount of pigment dropped during weaving;

③ neutralizing with acid at 20-40 deg.C for 10-20 min, and pH of 5-7;

④, adding 1-2 g/L of hydrophilic softening agent into the jar, and taking out;

⑤ shaping the product at 120-160 deg.C for 1-2.5 min.

The pretreatment liquid in step ② is an aqueous solution containing 0.1-1.0 g/L scouring agent, 0.5-3.0 g/L scouring emulsifier and 0.5-2.0 g/L dispersing agent.

The invention has the following positive effects:

(1) the invention adopts the dope-dyed polyester yarn and spandex yarn to weave the polyester/polyurethane knitted fabric, and can omit the dyeing process in the dyeing and finishing stage, thereby avoiding the spandex staining problem of the polyester/polyurethane knitted fabric with high proportion of spandex, further greatly reducing the water consumption, and the water saving rate can reach 62.5 percent.

(2) The nano-scale pigment with uniform particle size is coated or bonded with the polyester fiber, and can not migrate like disperse dye even under the conditions of high temperature and high pressure, so that the obtained polyester/polyurethane knitted fabric has good fastness, particularly has the color fastness to different color matching up to more than 4 grades, is 1-1.5 grades higher than that of the traditional process, and meets the requirement of different color matching.

(3) Although dyeing is not needed, when the polyester/polyurethane knitted fabric passes through a knitting needle at a high speed, part of pigment on the surface of the yarn is rubbed off, so that a small amount of the pigment falling off through a dyeing and finishing process is needed to be removed, and meanwhile, oil added in the spinning and weaving process is removed.

Detailed Description

(example 1)

The anti-collision colored polyester/ammonia knitted fabric is formed by weaving 80% of stock solution colored polyester yarns and 20% of spandex yarns through a weft knitting single-sided machine.

Wherein, the fineness of the dope dyed polyester yarn is 75D, and the fineness of the spandex yarn is 40D.

The dope dyed polyester yarn is black polyester prepared by adding nano-scale black pigment with uniform particle size in the polyester polymerization spinning stage, and then carrying out spinning and post processing.

The gram weight of the anti-collision color polyester/polyurethane knitted fabric is 160g/m²。

The dyeing and finishing method of the anti-collision color polyester/ammonia knitted fabric comprises the following steps:

① pre-shaping at 190 deg.C for 2 min.

②, immersing the pre-shaped anti-collision color polyester/polyurethane knitted fabric in the pre-treatment liquid at ①, and treating at 95 ℃ for 20min to remove spinning oil, weaving oil and a small amount of pigment dropped during weaving.

The pretreatment liquid in this example was an aqueous solution containing 0.5g/L of refining agent AP800, 1.5g/L of refining emulsifier SEM-35N, and 1.0g/L of low-foaming high-temperature dispersant HT-HTA.

The refining agent AP800 is from Shanghai Dingshu Industrial and trade Co., Ltd.

The refining emulsifier SEM-35N is from Shanghai Bingzhen auxiliary agent Co.

The low-foam high-temperature dispersant HT-HTA is available from Suzhou Heqin trade company, Inc.

③ neutralizing with acid at 20 deg.C for 10min, and adjusting pH to 6.5.

Before acid neutralization, the product is washed with clean water.

④ softening, adding hydrophilic softening agent 2g/L, and taking out.

The hydrophilic softener is derived from TWSOFT SL 302 non-silicon softener from the great expense of Macro chemical industry, Inc. of Zhuhai.

⑤ shaping the final product at 130 deg.C for 1.5 min.

(example 2)

This embodiment is substantially the same as embodiment 1 except that: the dope dyed polyester yarn of this embodiment is a bright red polyester produced by adding a nanoscale bright red pigment with uniform particle size at the stage of polyester polymerization spinning, and then spinning and post-processing.

(example 3)

This embodiment is substantially the same as embodiment 1 except that: the dope dyed polyester yarn of this embodiment is prepared by adding a nano-level emerald pigment with uniform particle size at the stage of polyester polymerization spinning, and then spinning and post-processing the mixture.

(test example 1)

The polyester/ammonia knitted fabrics of the examples 1 to 3 are respectively tested for washing fastness, acid perspiration fastness and alkali perspiration fastness, the test standards are GB/T3921-.

TABLE 1

Colour(s)	Test items	Color change	Acetate fiber	Cotton	Nylon	Terylene	Acrylic fibre	Wool
									Example 1	Fastness to washing	4-5	4-5	4-5	4	4-5	4-5	4-5
Example 1	Fastness to acid perspiration	4-5	4	4-5	4	4-5	4-5	4
									Example 1	Fastness to alkali perspiration	4-5	4-5	4-5	4	4-5	4-5	4-5
Example 2	Fastness to washing	4-5	4	4-5	4	4-5	4-5	4
									Example 2	Fastness to acid perspiration	4	4-5	4-5	4	4-5	4-5	4-5
Example 2	Fastness to alkali perspiration	4-5	4-5	4-5	4	4-5	4-5	4-5
									Example 3	Fastness to washing	4-5	4	4-5	4-5	4-5	4-5	4-5
Example 3	Fastness to acid perspiration	4-5	4	4-5	4-5	4	4-5	4
									Example 3	Fastness to alkali perspiration	4-5	4-5	4-5	4-5	4-5	4-5	4

(test example 2)

The polyester/ammonia knitted fabrics of the examples 1 to 3 are respectively tested for dry rubbing fastness, wet rubbing fastness and light fastness, and the test standards are GB/T3920-.

TABLE 2