阅读说明：本技术 一种经编仿双面毛呢面料及其制备方法 (Warp-knitted double-sided wool-like fabric and preparation method thereof ) 是由 万爱兰 缪旭红 蒋高明 丛洪莲 马丕波 王晓雷 于 2019-11-05 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明公开了一种经编仿双面毛呢面料及其制备方法,属于纺织领域。本发明利用双针床拉舍尔经编机,通过GB1梳和GB2梳走编链、衬纬或双经平组织,在织物底面形成“硬底板”或“软底板”效应；GB4梳和GB5梳走色织花纹组织,在织物正面形成色织“人字纹”或“芝麻点”图案；中间梳栉GB3梳,穿涤纶单丝,走V形组织,与之前的“硬底板”或“软底板”以及色织花纹组织形成“三明治间隔层”效应,使布料产生一定的立体弹性,制备得到的经编仿双面毛呢面料弹性可调、克重适中,且面料的尺寸稳定性较好,相比传统的梭织方法制备得到的双面毛呢面料节省了大量的人力和时间,提高了生产效率,整个流程更加绿色环保,适于工业生产。(The invention discloses a warp-knitted double-sided wool-like fabric and a preparation method thereof, and belongs to the field of textiles. The invention utilizes a double needle bar Raschel warp knitting machine to form a hard bottom plate effect or a soft bottom plate effect on the bottom surface of the fabric through a GB1 comb and a GB2 comb weaving chain, weft insertion or double warp flat tissue; the GB4 comb and the GB5 comb are in color weaving pattern, and a color-woven herringbone pattern or a sesame dot pattern is formed on the front surface of the fabric; the middle guide bar GB3 combs, the polyester monofilaments are threaded, the V-shaped structure is formed, a sandwich interlayer effect is formed by the middle guide bar GB3, the polyester monofilaments and the hard bottom plate or the soft bottom plate and the yarn-dyed pattern structure, the cloth can generate certain three-dimensional elasticity, the prepared warp-knitted double-sided woolen cloth imitating fabric is adjustable in elasticity, moderate in gram weight and good in dimensional stability, compared with the double-sided woolen cloth prepared by the traditional tatting method, a large amount of manpower and time are saved, the production efficiency is improved, the whole process is more green and environment-friendly, and the warp-knitted double-sided woolen cloth imitating fabric is suitable.)

1. A preparation method of a warp-knitted double-sided woolen fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps:

1) selecting materials: selecting polyester yarn DTY, polyester monofilament and yarn-dyed polyester half-edge fancy yarn as raw materials;

2) warping: warping polyester yarns, polyester monofilaments and yarn-dyed polyester half-edge velvet fancy yarns on a computer copying warping machine according to the requirements of width and horizontal density according to a certain number of parts;

3) weaving: weaving by adopting a double-needle bed warp knitting machine to obtain woolen cloth with the style of woolen fabrics;

4) and (3) after finishing: the warp-knitted double-sided wool-like fabric can be obtained by shaping, drying and cooling;

wherein, the single comb weave structure matching and threading mode during warping and weaving is as follows:

GB1 comb: 5-5-5-5/0-0-0-0/4-4-4-4/0-0-0-0//, panne;

GB2 comb: 0-1-1-1/1-0-0-0/0-1-1-1/1-0-0-0//, penetrations;

GB3 comb: 2-3-1-2/1-0-2-1/2-3-1-2/1-0-2-1//, panne;

GB4 comb: 1-1-0-1/2-2-2-1/1-1-0-1/2-2-2-1//, 1 empty 1 punch;

GB5 comb: 2-2-2-1/0-0-0-1/2-2-2-1/0-0-0-1//, 1 crosses 1 empty;

or

GB1 comb: 5-5-5-5/0-0-0-0/4-4-4-4/0-0-0-0//, panne;

GB2 comb: 0-1-1-1/1-0-0-0/0-1-1-1/1-0-0-0//, penetrations;

GB3 comb: 2-3-1-2/1-0-2-1/2-3-1-2/1-0-2-1//, panne;

GB4 comb:

2-2-0-1/2-2-2-1/2-2-2-3/4-4-4-3/4-4-4-5/6-6-6-5/6-6-6-7/8-8-8-7/9-9-11-12/11-11-11-10/9-9-9-10/9-9-9-8/7-7-7-8/7-7-7-6/5-5-5-6/5-5-5-4//, 4, penetrating and leaving 4 holes;

GB5 comb:

2-2-1-0/1-1-1-2/3-3-3-2/3-3-3-4/5-5-5-4/5-5-5-6/7-7-7-6/7-7-7-8/10-10-12-11/10-10-10-11/10-10-10-9/8-8-8-9/8-8-8-7/6-6-6-7/6-6-6-5/5-5-5-4//, 4 empty and 4 through.

2. The preparation method of the warp-knitted double-sided wool fabric according to claim 1, wherein the GB1 comb and GB2 comb weaving chains, weft insertion or double warp flat tissues form a 'hard bottom plate' effect or a 'soft bottom plate' effect on the bottom surface of the fabric; the GB4 comb and the GB5 comb are in color weaving pattern, and a color-woven herringbone pattern or a sesame dot pattern is formed on the front surface of the fabric; the GB3 comb is made by penetrating polyester monofilaments, running a V-shaped structure, forming a sandwich interlayer effect with a previous hard bottom plate or soft bottom plate and a yarn-dyed pattern structure, and the pattern surface is used as the front surface of the fabric for clothes.

3. The preparation method of the warp-knitted double-sided woolen fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the GB1 and GB2 combs are polyester yarns, the GB3 combs are polyester monofilaments, and the GB4 and GB5 combs are yarn-dyed polyester half-side woolen yarns.

4. The preparation method of the warp-knitted double-sided woolen fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the GB1 and GB2 combs are 70-100D polyester yarns, the GB3 combs are 20-50D polyester monofilaments, and the GB4 combs and GB5 combs are 20-50S yarn-dyed polyester half-side woolen yarns.

5. The preparation method of the warp-knitted double-sided wool fabric as claimed in claim 3 or 4, wherein the polyester yarn accounts for 19.73-48.55%, the polyester monofilament accounts for 17.10-53.22%, and the yarn-dyed polyester half-side fancy yarn accounts for 18.76-54.1%.

6. The method for preparing the warp-knitted double-sided wool-like fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the double needle bed warp knitting machine is a Raschel warp knitting machine.

7. The preparation method of the warp-knitted double-sided wool-like fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the drying temperature in the step (4) is 140 ℃.

8. The method for preparing the warp-knitted double-sided woolen fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the method further comprises detection and packaging.

9. The warp-knitted double-sided woolen fabric prepared by the preparation method of the warp-knitted double-sided woolen fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 8.

10. Clothing or home textile comprising the warp-knitted double-sided wool-like fabric according to claim 9.

Technical Field

The invention relates to a warp-knitted double-sided wool-like fabric and a preparation method thereof, and belongs to the field of textiles.

Background

The woolen fabric is divided into single-sided woolen fabric and double-sided woolen fabric, the original single-sided woolen fabric needs lining cloth besides the defects of being divided into the front side and the back side and having the same color, and then the double-sided woolen fabric of the high-grade double-layer woven fabric is produced in European Italy, the double-sided woolen fabric is made of two layers of thin and pure natural cashmere, wool or rabbit hair which are plain and plain, compared with the single-sided woolen fabric, the double-sided woolen fabric is gorgeous in color, light and not bloated, fine and smooth in hand feeling, moist and comfortable, compact in texture, stiff and smooth and elastic, but the double-sided woolen fabric is only limited to woven products in the current production.

Along with the improvement of the living standard of economic construction, the requirement of people on the comfort of clothes is continuously improved, the requirement on the fabric of the clothes is higher and higher, the personalized development puts higher demands on the diversification of the fabric, and the woolen fabric not only requires a simple and large style, but also requires softness, thinness, comfort, breathability, elasticity and good resilience. The conventional double-faced woolen fabric is difficult to meet the requirements of consumers in various forms, and some consumers hope that the fabric can have the style of the traditional double-faced woolen fabric in appearance, and the wearing comfort and the elasticity can be ensured. In the last 30 years, with the rapid development of knitting technology, the loop structure of knitted fabrics provides possibilities for extensibility and fit comfort.

In recent years, weft-knitted woolen fabrics appear, but the better extensibility of weft-knitted woolen products is difficult to adapt to the dimensional stability requirement of clothes, and the weft-knitted fabrics are generally single-woolen fabrics and cannot meet the requirement of double-sided woolen fabrics in the market. In addition, the process of the traditional tatting double-sided woolen fabric is relatively complex, and because the double-sided woolen fabric cannot be compounded by a machine, only one needle and one thread sewing can be performed manually by a worker, 7-10 construction periods are needed for one double-sided woolen garment, and the consumed time is 5 times that of a common overcoat, so that the production efficiency is reduced, and the production cost is increased. Therefore, a production process capable of replacing a tatting method to prepare the double-faced woolen fabric with good performance is needed to be found.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to provide a warp-knitted imitated double-sided woolen fabric and a preparation process of the warp-knitted imitated double-sided woolen fabric.

In order to realize the purposes, the principle of the invention is that on a double needle bar Raschel warp knitting machine, the front two guide bars are matched, a polyester yarn is threaded to run a knitting chain and weft insertion or a warp leveling structure is changed, when the two guide bars run the knitting chain and the weft insertion, a hard bottom plate effect can be formed on the bottom surface of the fabric, the bottom structure has simple process and stable structure, and the fabric is not easy to fall off; when the two guide bars change the warp and flat texture, a soft bottom plate effect can be formed on the bottom surface of the fabric, the extensibility of the bottom texture structure is moderate, the relatively hard bottom plate has larger extensibility, but the relatively hard bottom plate is smaller than the weft-knitted fabric, and the warp-knitted fabric can be used in occasions with micro extensibility requirements; the back two guide bars are matched, and the colored weaving pattern structure is formed by threading the half-side terylene velvet, so that the colored weaving pattern effect is formed on the front surface of the process of the fabric, and the artistic aesthetic feeling and the diversity of the appearance of the fabric can be increased; a middle guide bar is utilized, polyester monofilaments are threaded, a V-shaped structure is formed, a sandwich interlayer effect is formed, cloth generates certain three-dimensional elasticity, and a yarn-dyed surface is used as the front surface of the fabric.

The technical scheme of the invention is to provide a preparation method of a warp-knitted double-sided woolen fabric, which comprises the following steps:

1) selecting materials: selecting polyester yarn DTY, polyester monofilament and yarn-dyed polyester half-edge fancy yarn as raw materials;

2) warping: warping polyester yarns, polyester monofilaments and yarn-dyed polyester half-edge velvet fancy yarns on a computer copying warping machine according to the width and the density of the yarns and the number of heads calculated according to the process of each guide bar;

3) weaving: weaving by adopting a double-needle bed warp knitting machine to obtain woolen cloth with the style of woolen fabrics;

4) and (3) after finishing: the warp-knitted double-sided wool-like fabric can be obtained by shaping, drying and cooling;

wherein, the single comb weave structure matching and threading mode during warping and weaving is as follows:

GB1 comb: 5-5-5-5/0-0-0-0/4-4-4-4/0-0-0-0//, panne;

GB2 comb: 0-1-1-1/1-0-0-0/0-1-1-1/1-0-0-0//, penetrations;

GB3 comb: 2-3-1-2/1-0-2-1/2-3-1-2/1-0-2-1//, panne;

GB4 comb: 1-1-0-1/2-2-2-1/1-1-0-1/2-2-2-1//, 1 empty 1 punch;

GB5 comb: 2-2-2-1/0-0-0-1/2-2-2-1/0-0-0-1//, 1 crosses 1 empty;

or

GB1 comb: 1-0-0-0/1-2-2-2//, compilations;

GB2 comb: 1-2-2-2/1-0-0-0//, compilations;

GB3 comb: 2-3-1-2/1-0-2-1//, compilations;

GB4 comb:

2-2-0-1/2-2-2-1/2-2-2-3/4-4-4-3/4-4-4-5/6-6-6-5/6-6-6-7/8-8-8-7/9-9-11-12/11-11-11-10/9-9-9-10/9-9-9-8/7-7-7-8/7-7-7-6/5-5-5-6/5-5-5-4//, 4, penetrating and leaving 4 holes;

GB5 comb:

2-2-1-0/1-1-1-2/3-3-3-2/3-3-3-4/5-5-5-4/5-5-5-6/7-7-7-6/7-7-7-8/10-10-12-11/10-10-10-11/10-10-10-9/8-8-8-9/8-8-8-7/6-6-6-7/6-6-6-5/5-5-5-4//, 4 empty and 4 through.

In one embodiment of the invention, the GB1 comb and GB2 comb-laid pillar chains, weft inserts or double warp flat weaves, creating a "hard bottom" or "soft bottom" effect on the bottom surface of the fabric; the GB4 comb and the GB5 comb are in color weaving pattern, and a color-woven herringbone pattern or a sesame dot pattern is formed on the front surface of the fabric; the middle guide bar GB3 combs, penetrates polyester monofilament, runs a V-shaped structure, forms a sandwich interlayer effect with the previous hard bottom plate or soft bottom plate and yarn-dyed pattern structure, and enables the fabric to generate certain three-dimensional elasticity, and the pattern surface is used as the front surface of the fabric for clothes.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the double-bed warp knitting machine is any one of raschel machines RD6DPLM-EL type, RD7 DPLM-EL type, and RD8 DPLM-EL type.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the temperature of the drying in the step (4) is 150 to 200 ℃.

In one embodiment of the invention, the method further comprises detecting and packaging.

In one embodiment of the invention, the GB1 and GB2 combs are polyester yarns, the GB3 combs are polyester monofilaments, and the GB4 and GB5 are yarn-dyed polyester half-side pile yarns.

In one embodiment of the invention, the GB1 and GB2 combs are 70-100D polyester yarns, the GB3 combs are 20-50D polyester monofilaments, and the GB4 combs and GB5 combs are 20-50S yarn-dyed polyester half-side velvet fancy yarns.

In one embodiment of the invention, the polyester yarn accounts for 19.73-48.55%, the polyester monofilament accounts for 17.10-53.22%, and the yarn-dyed polyester half-side textured yarn accounts for 18.76-54.1%.

The invention also provides the warp-knitted double-sided woolen fabric prepared by the method.

In one embodiment of the invention, the finished warp-knitted double-sided woolen fabric product has a square meter grammage of 140-330 g/m²。

The invention also provides a garment and a home textile containing the warp-knitted single-sided wool-like fabric.

The invention has the following beneficial effects:

1) compared with the woven double-sided woolen fabric, the warp-knitted double-sided woolen fabric prepared by the invention has adjustable elasticity and moderate gram weight: the bottom surface structure is enabled to be loosened and tightened through a yarn walking mode combed by GB1 and GB2, the front surface pattern is rich, the bottom surface structure has the special style of the traditional woolen fabric, the spacing layer is penetrated by polyester monofilaments, the stereoscopic impression of the product can be improved, the finished product is full, and the gram weight of the finished product is controlled to be 330g/m²The requirements of softness, lightness, thinness, comfort and air permeability of the woolen fabric can be met;

2) the dimensional stability of the warp-knitted double-sided wool-like fabric prepared by the warp-knitted structure is between that of a woven product and that of a weft-knitted product: the extensibility of the warp-knitted fabric is superior to that of a woven product because the loop columns and the loop arcs of the warp-knitted fabric can be transferred when being stretched by a longitudinal external force; the wales of the warp knitting structure are connected through the extension lines, so that the warp knitting structure is different from the sinker loop connection of the weft knitting structure, and the warp knitting structure has no sinker loop length release of the weft knitting structure when being stretched by transverse external force, so that the dimensional stability of the warp knitting fabric is superior to that of a weft knitting product;

3) the invention has short process flow, energy conservation and emission reduction: the post-finishing only needs simple shaping and drying treatment, and the process flow of the traditional double-sided woolen cloth needs great labor and time consumption, so that the production efficiency can be improved by 4-6 times, the use of the yarn-dyed yarns and the simple post-finishing ensure that the whole production flow hardly generates waste, and compared with the traditional dyeing and post-treatment links, the waste is reduced by more than 90%, and the double-sided woolen cloth is more environment-friendly;

4) the invention has soft and plump hand feeling, three-dimensional and beautiful appearance and better heat retention: because the warp-knitted double-sided woolen fabric is bidirectional elastic, light and elastic and comfortable, and has no binding feeling when being worn, the special fancy yarns ensure that the fabric has better softness and heat retention property, has certain yarn-dyed artistic beauty, and the spacing layer gives prominence to the stereoscopic impression and improves the aesthetic property.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a movement diagram of each single-comb stitch lapping in embodiment 1 of the warp-knitted double-sided woolen fabric.

FIG. 2 is a diagram showing the movement of each single-comb stitch lapping in example 2 of the warp-knitted double-sided woolen fabric of the present invention.

FIG. 3 is a picture of the double-sided woolen fabric prepared by the invention.

Fig. 4 is a picture of a commercially available double-faced woolen fabric.

FIG. 5 is a picture of a commercial imitation double-sided woolen fabric.

Detailed Description

In order to make the invention more comprehensible, preferred embodiments are described in detail below with reference to the accompanying drawings. It should be understood that these examples are for illustrative purposes only and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention. Furthermore, it should be understood that various changes and modifications can be made by those skilled in the art after reading the present disclosure, and equivalents fall within the scope of the invention defined by the appended claims.

1. Dimensional stability test method

The shrinkage of the fabric was tested according to the commonly used test standards GB/T8628-2001 preparation, marking and measurement of samples for determining dimensional changes of fabrics and GB/T8629-2001 household washing and drying procedure for textile experiments.

2. Flexibility testing method

According to American standard AATCC 66, a corresponding hand feeling style index is calculated by adopting a testing principle of a Phabrometer fabric hand feeling evaluation system. Taking a group of pure cotton fabrics as reference samples, calculating the relative hand feeling value of the samples relative to the pure cotton fabrics, wherein the softness of the pure cotton fabrics is marked as 0, and the higher the softness is, the better the softness is.

3. Heat retention test method

The warm-keeping rate of the fabric is tested by adopting an SFJJ-606PC type fabric heat-insulating property tester according to the standard GB/T11048-.